2560 X 1600 / 1440 monitor questions, advice

[josh6135]

I am interested in buying a 2560 X 1600 or 2560 X 1440 monitor. I have some questions and would appreciate any help. If I am wrong about anything I say please let me know.

1) I want one of the Dell monitors at 2560 X 1600 or 2560 X 1440. I have always liked their monitors. Can anyone give any feedback on them or recommend other models? I would say a lower price would be great however that does not seem to exists with these monitors. Any model at any price recommendation would be appreciated.

2) I noticed a lot of the 1600p and 1440p (is that right in saying that?) have DVI-D. I thought DVI-D was meant for 3D Vision gaming and a 120hz refresh rate. Being that a large 1600p and 1440p has 60hz refresh rate and no 3d Vision technology what is the point of it having DVI-D over DVI? Do they make any with 120hz refresh rate? If you have experience 120hz gaming compared with 60 hz gaming on a 1600p and 1440p screen please give some feedback.

3) With my Asus VG278H 27-Inch 3D monitor and a GTX 680 I notice things like extremely smooth movement of dragging windows in Windows 7 and things like that due to the 120hz refresh rate. From what I have seen this smoothness in low end or high end 60hz monitors is not present. Is gaming smooth , with v-sync and a high end video card with the 1600p and 1440p monitors? Yes, 3D Vision is incredible in case you were wondering

4) Do blurays functions properly at resolutions above 1080p , or do you have to change your resolution before you watch a bluray?

5) Do 1600p and 1440p monitors allow you to see more? For example if I have a webpage open that says "From what I have seen this smoothness in low end or high end 60hz monitors is not present. " and I have that window/ browser snapped to the right side of my current monitor I might see ""From what I have seen this smoothness in... " the rest is cut off unless I navigate with my mouse or arrow keys. On a 1600p monitor would I maybe see more of the sentence like this "From what I have seen this smoothness in low end or high end 60hz monitors...." Also on a smaller 1440p monitor would I see more of the sentence.

6) Think I will keep my 3d monitor for 3d gaming and use a higher resolution monitor for everything else. Overall I have read reviews with such great things said about these monitors for gaming , graphic design, photography, multitasking, and everything else. I just want to see if it is worth it.

[Hak Foo]

2:  It's "dual-link DVI".  Technically, single link DVI tops out at about 1920x1200 at 60Hz.  You need dual-link to feed it enough pixels.  I think Displayport might also work, but there seem to be some issues with compatiblity.

1:  If 27", 2560x1440 is your taste, you might consider the Overlord range now-- they claim to be everything the 27" Korean monitors offered, but sold and supported by Americans, for not much more.

I have an ordinary 60Hz model (Yamakasi Catleap), and it was an excellent waste of 365 USD, but I found myself having to replace my 5750 with a 6870 to drive it due to compatibility issues.  If you have the card you claim, it should be no issue.

The video card is largely responsible for scaling.  The monitor says, basically, "I do 2560x1440, it's your problem if you don't", and the video card scales.  Some models have a built-in scaler, but the cheapest ones do not and lean on the video card.

I have not used blu-ray-- no drive-- but with other low-resolution content like boot screens it works that way.  You might also research if hdcp comes into play there too.  Most of the cheap models lack it.

[thebeargentile]

1)  I just bought a Dell u2711, and it is fantastic. Great picture, multiple inputs, good UI, you get what you pay for.

2). If you want 2560 x 1440 or 1600, you're limited to dvi-d or display port at the moment. HDMI 1.4 can support ultra high resolution, but I haven't heard of many success stories yet.

3). Not sure of any 2560 x 1440 or 1600 monitors with 120hz, but there may be some out there. That's a lot of data to transmit. I run 2 480s in sli, which are comparable to a 680, and gaming is amazing. Most games run in high or ultra resolution with no problem, though I had to turn down AA in Skyrim with reality mods enabled. The extra resolution definitely makes a difference in games.

4). Power dvd pro asks if I want to temporarily change resolution to 1080 when I put in a blu ray, automatically reverts on program exit. You can choose not to, the picture will stretch and distort a bit, but plays fine.

5). The higher the resolution, the more you can see on screen. At 2560x1440, I can open up two full size windows of almost any program without anything being cut off. 1440 and 1600 have the same horizontal resolution, you will get more vertical workspace with 1600.

6). No problem with keeping multiple tools for multiple jobs if you have the space and money. FWIW, I've played with 3d gaming, and would take the extra resolution any day of the week, but this is a highly personal opinion.

[IvanIvanovich]

I've been very happy with my Achieva Shimian QH270 that I paid $300 for. If you don't mind a glossy screen, they are every bit as good as Dell in my opinon.
I don't do blu ray disc, but play m4v rips of 1080p content and it upscale just fine. It dosen't look too bad with upscale sd stuff either as long as you move back a little.
I haven't had much chance to game on it yet. Asides from some older titles my gpu was not cutting it at 1440. I have a 670 on the way so I should get to start enjoying it more next week.

[The_Beast]

I would go 16:10 all day errrrr day over 16:9.


Dell does make excellent monitors, I would go IPS based if you can fit it in your budget since it looks so darn nice compared to a TN based panel.

[TheProfosist]

I have a ASUS PB278Q and i love it!

[bace]

I have 2 crossover 27q for $700 total and they are amazing. They have an aluminum body instead of plastic which I really like.

[bavman]

I have a catleap that I paid $380ish i think for it. It came with no dead/stuck pixels and I couldn't be more happy with it

[josh6135]

where did you buy the catleap from?

[TheProfosist]

where did you buy the catleap from?

probably ebay

[Hak Foo]

Ebay - user green-sum

Mine had no dead pixels that I've noticed in several months of use.

There are a bunch of people selling Catleaps and their kin there; varying slightly in their offers.

Some include for "free" a small adapter to convert a Korean plug to a US one-- not needed as you can just put a spare 3-pin power cord on the power brick-- it's 120-240v tolerant.  If you get one, fine, but it's not a sale-breaker.

Some offer "tested/perfect pixel" but apparently their legal obligations to qualify for "perfect pixel" are hardly what we'd expect.

You might also look at some of the "Americanized" brands offering it, like the Nixeus Vue - it's more money, but it's got more inputs than the cheapest ones and will not require a six-year study course in Korean to get any RMA issues resolved.

[TheProfosist]

Yea i forgot what brand it is but the one from microcenter is nice except for the stand

[bavman]

where did you buy the catleap from?

Got it from ebay ...green-sum I believe.

[tipo33]

Most of the questions have been answered,  but I have to say,  i own a HP ZR2740W and I love it.  I love having ot crane my neck to look from one side of the screen to the other.   The resolution can't be matched.

[RougeR]

go to 120hz.net

120hz and 1440p

oh and i have a dell u2711 I got cheap, great monitor.

[nullstring]

These overlord screens look nice.. Didn't know about thse

It seems I am behind times. Are there any other places for these "korean" monitors?
Microcenter sells one. Monoprice will soon. Just learned about overlord.

Are there any other american sold ones?

[Hak Foo]

The one gimmick:  the "120Hz" is wink-wink-nudge-nudge.  It is only obtainable with huge graphics-card horsepower, but it's also fidgety about cables, and some units nominally capable of it are not.  It's like how a given CPU may be "4GHz easy overclock" but only officially sold for 3.3GHz operation.

[TheProfosist]

These overlord screens look nice.. Didn't know about thse

It seems I am behind times. Are there any other places for these "korean" monitors?
Microcenter sells one. Monoprice will soon. Just learned about overlord.

Are there any other american sold ones?

yea there are but there almost double the price

[isp]

I have a ASUS PB278Q and i love it!

+1
 I received this monitor last week and it's a breathe of fresh air because of the mild antiglare coating.  Right now, I'd recommend the samsung PLS panels (Samsung, Asus) or the new Dell U2713HM (light antiglare treatment)...

[nraymond]

Most of the questions have been answered,  but I have to say,  i own a HP ZR2740W and I love it.  I love having ot crane my neck to look from one side of the screen to the other.   The resolution can't be matched.

I owned an HP ZR2740w and I agree the quality is great, but one thing I discovered with mine was there is an issue with the latest 2012 Mac Minis over DisplayPort.  The short version is that at least some of the HP ZR2740w monitors will temporarily stop displaying any image after booting a new Mac Mini.  It occurs when you get to the login screen (or desktop if you've enabled automatic login) when connected over DisplayPort.  This can be worked around by unplugging and replugging either monitor power or the DisplayPort cable, after which the monitor will work fine until the next boot.

HP confirmed to me in a support case I opened that there have been DisplayPort issues with the firmware in some of their ZR series monitors, but that there is no way to determine what firmware revision a particular ZR series monitor has - making any RMA process a gamble.

Here's the background info on this situation: early in 2012 I bought a new HP ZR2740w display for use with my 2009 Mac Mini (GeForce 9400 graphics). I used a Mini DisplayPort to DisplayPort cable, and it always worked without any problems at 2560x1440 - booting, sleeping, waking, etc.  When the new Mini came out, I bought one, and discovered that the ZR2740w would stop displaying an image right when the login screen would show up, which is when I believe OpenGL is being initialized (so the Intel 4000 GPU is switching from 2D mode to 3D).  I could power cycle the monitor or unplug and replug the DisplayPort cable and the monitor would show an image again, and operate completely normally until the next boot, including when the computer is put to sleep and woken up, and when the energy saver went into display sleep and then it's woken up again.  The only time the monitor needed to be power cycled or the cable needed to be unplugged/replugged was after booting up.

Since I still had my 2009 Mini (running 10.7.5), I made sure to test it again, and could find no problem, so I can conclude the monitor hasn't developed an issue.  I went out and bought another brand of Mini DisplayPort to DisplayPort cable just in case that was somehow a factor, but it made no difference.  I also have a PC running Windows 7 with an NVIDIA GeForce 670 card which has DisplayPort out, and I tested the ZR2740w with that and have no problems.  I also tested the dual-link DVI with the PC at the native 2560x1440 resolution without problems.  On the 2012 Mini I tested HDMI to DVI at 1920x1080 resolution (the highest HDMI can go) and there were no issues with that.  I don't have Apple's dual-link DVI adapter and didn't want to spend $99 on an adapter I shouldn't need to use.  I'm of the firm opinion that the HP ZR2740w monitor should work equally well on all computers over all it's inputs.

Once HP support explained there was no way for them to guarantee that a replacement monitor sent to me wouldn't have the same firmware revision and issue as the one I had, I decided to buy an ASUS PB278, which is another 2560x1440 monitor that includes DisplayPort.  I have it now and I can report there are no issues with the ASUS PB278 over DisplayPort on the 2012 Mac Mini. My recommendation is that at least 2012 Mac Mini owners avoid the HP ZR2740w.

[tp4tissue]

wo wo wo wo wo.... wo..... wait....

3013 and/or 3014 is coming out in "march"

Definitly wait until then.. either pick up the u3011 at discount rate, or perhaps the NEW stuff if they're truly exceptional.. price difference of 3-400 is insignificant.

[Hak Foo]

3-400 is insignificant?

Must be nice being that unrestrained by a budget.  Care to send me a Realforce?

I would never have bought a 27 if not for the price of the Korean ones; I'd still be riding my old 24, which is now on the verge of death, and perhaps replacing it with something like a U2410.

[fuus]

Go for the 1600p variant, 16:10 is so much better than 16:9 IMHO. It'll come at a cost, but so do all luxuries in life?!

[tp4tissue]

3-400 is insignificant?

Must be nice being that unrestrained by a budget.  Care to send me a Realforce?

I would never have bought a 27 if not for the price of the Korean ones; I'd still be riding my old 24, which is now on the verge of death, and perhaps replacing it with something like a U2410.

If you were going to spend $1000 in the first place.. what is another $400??

It's like if you were going to buy a QFR mx red for $90, what's another $60 to get the Filco Red... You might as well just buy the better one..

[tp4tissue]

Go for the 1600p variant, 16:10 is so much better than 16:9 IMHO. It'll come at a cost, but so do all luxuries in life?!

This is not true. I've used both. I got the original 25x14 27" when they first came out.. I didn't like it because the pixels were too dense, and I had to put the monitor really close compared to my 30", so I resolved to get another 30"

On larger monitors the 16:9 vs 16:10 makes VERY little difference.

[Hak Foo]

3-400 is insignificant?

Must be nice being that unrestrained by a budget.  Care to send me a Realforce?

I would never have bought a 27 if not for the price of the Korean ones; I'd still be riding my old 24, which is now on the verge of death, and perhaps replacing it with something like a U2410.

If you were going to spend $1000 in the first place.. what is another $400??

It's like if you were going to buy a QFR mx red for $90, what's another $60 to get the Filco Red... You might as well just buy the better one..

But those of us who bought the Korean models are typically spending between 300-40 to begin with.

[alaricljs]

If you were going to spend $1000 in the first place.. what is another $400??

Are you a trust fund baby?  Another $400 is 40% and by your logic instead of an affordable $22k Civic I should spend $31k on something that doesn't fill my needs any better than the Civic does just because it's shinier or has a better brand image.  Better yet, let's ignore common sense and instead of buying the $400k house that fills our need and fits the budget we can blow $560k!  Oh wait, isn't this the sort of thing that murdered the housing market and messed up the economy?

Back when a 21" CRT was impressive I bought a ViewSonic 21" P815 refurb for ~$400, which was a significant discount over retail.  Around 15% of that price was an extended warranty.  That 15% was a good investment since it was a guarantee that I'd have a functional unit for at least 3yrs.  I got to take advantage of it around 2 months before it ended, but either way it was worth it due to the real perceivable value.  A 40% markup just for a nicer logo wouldn't have done me any good at all.

The value in getting a Catleap is being able to buy something that's quite nice on a budget that with your logic wouldn't survive a trip to the supermarket.  If direct from Korea is too much risk there's the slightly more expensive and easily warrantied American market versions.  Basically there's an option to suit anyone looking for a 27" screen.

[tp4tissue]

If you were going to spend $1000 in the first place.. what is another $400??

Are you a trust fund baby?  Another $400 is 40% and by your logic instead of an affordable $22k Civic I should spend $31k on something that doesn't fill my needs any better than the Civic does just because it's shinier or has a better brand image.  Better yet, let's ignore common sense and instead of buying the $400k house that fills our need and fits the budget we can blow $560k!  Oh wait, isn't this the sort of thing that murdered the housing market and messed up the economy?

Back when a 21" CRT was impressive I bought a ViewSonic 21" P815 refurb for ~$400, which was a significant discount over retail.  Around 15% of that price was an extended warranty.  That 15% was a good investment since it was a guarantee that I'd have a functional unit for at least 3yrs.  I got to take advantage of it around 2 months before it ended, but either way it was worth it due to the real perceivable value.  A 40% markup just for a nicer logo wouldn't have done me any good at all.

The value in getting a Catleap is being able to buy something that's quite nice on a budget that with your logic wouldn't survive a trip to the supermarket.  If direct from Korea is too much risk there's the slightly more expensive and easily warrantied American market versions.  Basically there's an option to suit anyone looking for a 27" screen.

If you were willing to spend and "HAD" 100% of the money for whatever product... 40% more than that is really not that much more...

Key component is "having already" demonstrating the established capacity and willingness of the first 100%.

From then, you can see how my 40% "more" makes sense.


If anyone was going to buy a $400,000 house.. Surely a $600,000 house is NOT out of the question.


I don't know what you're trying to say about that honda civic thing...

None of this is about "NEED" it's getting the most for your money..

[alaricljs]

And getting the most for your money is why inexpensive QFRs and Catleaps are what people are interested in.  How do you manage to jump from one to the other?  I could afford another Filco, however given the price and quality of a QFR that would be my goto if I need another TKL.  While I'm not too keen on a Catleap the American models (MicroCenter, MonoPrice, ...) are appealing especially the MC since I can go pick it up and test it right there for a reasonable price.

There are places where it makes sense to spend more because that's where the best value is at.  There are plenty of tools where this is the case.  Getting the most for your money in either case should be down to keeping as much money in your pocket as you can while getting the best value out of your purchase.  A Filco is NOT the best value in keyboards, and a Dell 27" while quite nice is not the best value in 27" monitors.

As to the house, it's sounding a lot like you still live with the `rents.  A $400k house is ~$1900/mo P&I, $600k is ~$2864/mo P&I, 50% more out of pocket for only 33% more house value.  That's not taking into consideration the taxes, which in my area would be $7500/yr or $11,200/yr.  Then there's insurance, ~$1600 or ~$2000... More expensive houses are typically larger so that's more heat, electricity and so forth...

$2660 for the first house, $3965 for the 2nd... $2660 is a quite reasonable housing payment in my experience.  Nearly $4k/mo is downright impossible for many of those that could do the smaller house without hurting.

Get a few more years experience with real money before you go throwing out silly claims about 40% more cost being no big deal.  I wouldn't even pay 40% more for a drink... but I suppose that's why I have more money to get the most out of.

[nebo]

Also rocking the catleap q270. Came with no dead pixels but the stand is pretty flimsy. I've though about replacing it or getting a mount for it.

[tp4tissue]

And getting the most for your money is why inexpensive QFRs and Catleaps are what people are interested in.  How do you manage to jump from one to the other?  I could afford another Filco, however given the price and quality of a QFR that would be my goto if I need another TKL.  While I'm not too keen on a Catleap the American models (MicroCenter, MonoPrice, ...) are appealing especially the MC since I can go pick it up and test it right there for a reasonable price.

There are places where it makes sense to spend more because that's where the best value is at.  There are plenty of tools where this is the case.  Getting the most for your money in either case should be down to keeping as much money in your pocket as you can while getting the best value out of your purchase.  A Filco is NOT the best value in keyboards, and a Dell 27" while quite nice is not the best value in 27" monitors.

As to the house, it's sounding a lot like you still live with the `rents.  A $400k house is ~$1900/mo P&I, $600k is ~$2864/mo P&I, 50% more out of pocket for only 33% more house value.  That's not taking into consideration the taxes, which in my area would be $7500/yr or $11,200/yr.  Then there's insurance, ~$1600 or ~$2000... More expensive houses are typically larger so that's more heat, electricity and so forth...

$2660 for the first house, $3965 for the 2nd... $2660 is a quite reasonable housing payment in my experience.  Nearly $4k/mo is downright impossible for many of those that could do the smaller house without hurting.

Get a few more years experience with real money before you go throwing out silly claims about 40% more cost being no big deal.  I wouldn't even pay 40% more for a drink... but I suppose that's why I have more money to get the most out of.

I'm not talking about any of the nonsense you're spewing. You're on a completely different subject.

You're talking about taking interest loans on things you "can't" afford NOW..

I am talking about things that you "HAVE" the cash for....


IN WHICH CASE..... we can assume....

You are certainly capable of generating 40% more of it.

You are willing to USE it...

[alaricljs]

Even people that COULD pay cash for a house don't 99% of the time.  Money under your control can be used to make more money so keeping as much of it under control as possible should be goal 1.  So again, paying more for something when you don't have to is a poor choice.

[metalliqaz]

I like the HP monitors... ZR2740w, yummy.  ZR30w even better

[tp4tissue]

Even people that COULD pay cash for a house don't 99% of the time.  Money under your control can be used to make more money so keeping as much of it under control as possible should be goal 1.  So again, paying more for something when you don't have to is a poor choice.

Again.. You're on a completely different subject... I don't know what your problem is... reading? i can't explain it to you any more clearly.. LOL

[tp4tissue]

I like the HP monitors... ZR2740w, yummy.  ZR30w even better

Yea, ZR30W is one of the best choices out "Now"... but very soon, in March.. sux my actuarial exams are then too.. LOL.. but yea,, the 3014/3013 is rumored for march release..

If they can get 100% or better 110% adobe rgb coverage with LED backlit, that would be the dream.....

Because I've noticed that on my 3007wfphc, and 3008, overtime the heat causes the frame to crack.. and the color is different than it used to be...

The color shift is always going to happen, but I'd think heat makes that occur quicker....

so.. yea..   if you were to buy one TODAY,, I'd agree that ZR30w is the "best choice" because it's so much faster than the newer panels with scalars...

Multiple inputs just doesn't make sense these days, because console gaming is better done on TV with native 1080p, a computer monitor can remain a computer monitor to do awesomer computer stuff

[DanGWanG]

Can someone give me a summary of what the top 2 choices for $400 27" monitors?  I'm going to buy one soon

[TheProfosist]

Can someone give me a summary of what the top 2 choices for $400 27" monitors?  I'm going to buy one soon

probably monoprice and microcenter for value

[tp4tissue]

Can someone give me a summary of what the top 2 choices for $400 27" monitors?  I'm going to buy one soon

The main issue with the ghetto ips vs the proper ones, is that the color reproduction on the $400 monitors are of much lower percentage of the Adobe RGB gamut..

Basically you only get 70% vs 100 to 100+ on the $600 monitors.  And this is a HUGE difference, not one of those, no I can't tell the difference between a qfr and a filco.. This is a night and day difference...

As far as the backlighting bleeding/uneven-ness,, that stuff you can't really see except on dark scenes, which isn't that often.

[TheProfosist]

Unless your a anime nerd like me o and also being into encoding doesnt help.

[tp4tissue]

Unless your a anime nerd like me o and also being into encoding doesnt help.

The backlight bleed/ uneveness is really not that bad..... it's kinda of an overblown issue, because of color constancy effect done by our brains, the picture looks even for the most part, "until" you go and measure it with a tool...

Most anime are low budget and designed for children who would accept low quality work and poor mastering... so.... i'm not so sure improved color accuracy would be much of an advantage...

But, the native 8-bit and 10bit dithering may be helpful to some of the color stuff...

[IvanIvanovich]

None of that really matters unless you are doing color correction work. If that is the case you should buy a professional class display like an eizo or something. For most people, adobergb is irrelevant. Even on cheap ips, with 70% a-rgb it is still better looking than some average tn panel with a higher a-rgb percent. For most people all that need to do is adjust the red or blue value depending on the led coloration, perhaps brightness and some other small tweaks, and you are all set with a good looking picture for desktop/gaming/media use with srgb v4 icc. But then many people never even bother to calibrate thier displays to make them as good as they can be either.

[ihasmario]

None of that really matters unless you are doing color correction work.

Well, the desire for nice colours in people who don't do colour-sensitive work is no different to people who want a quality input device, even though their work usually isn't too sensitive to whether they use rubber domes or a mechanical switch.

Personally I couldn't go back to monitors without a pair of FPGAs, because it's fun, customisable and the screen division options work out well for me. There's not alot of room to move in the 2560* market at the moment, when your choices have a lot of poorly done AG and no AG at all (which is also bad).

[IvanIvanovich]

No I agree that good looking color is important, which was one of the factor for me getting my ips, but if you aren't doing color work then a properly calibrated srgb profile is perfectly sufficient which was my point. It only needs to look good to the eye, not be a predictable reproduceable color result. Using Adobe RGB is only important for things when making design for print work and such, but also if you know your pantone colors you can just set them as needed and ignore what your eyes are telling you on even the worst display, and I have done things that way in the past.
Anti-glare is an entirely different argument. It is known that most of the value display have none. Some people find that to be a big problem, and it can be depend on your environment and where you may be forced to have the diplay oriented facing a window or something which would be very disruptive to viewing. On the other end you have Dell, which insist on using the most aggressive ag coating and I find that disruptive also. There really are far too few display of any type or size that have a good light ag coating that dosen't disturb the percieved color making it look dull and lifeless and not become a mirror for the user either. It seems that it is a very difficult balance to make for manufacturer.
Personally I would rather have none ag coating than one that is too much. My room has a convenient layout where it is no problem to me at all with having a glossy display. It certainly is something one needs to consider before purchase.

[DanGWanG]

Lysol which would you buy for $400

[IvanIvanovich]

Overall I have been really happy with my Shimian QH270. It's a nice display, I wouldn't have any problem to reccomend it. I spent a little less when I bought it, but I purchase from this ebay seller, no problems.

[bigsneakysnake]

Overall I have been really happy with my Shimian QH270. It's a nice display, I wouldn't have any problem to reccomend it. I spent a little less when I bought it, but I purchase from this ebay seller, no problems.

I can attest to the Shimian as well. I ordered one that was checked to have no dead pixels and it cost only $349.99, shipping and all from korea. It took only 3 days to get here, and the color and contrast ratio is fantastic. I couldn't recommend them more.

[tp4tissue]

No I agree that good looking color is important, which was one of the factor for me getting my ips, but if you aren't doing color work then a properly calibrated srgb profile is perfectly sufficient which was my point. It only needs to look good to the eye, not be a predictable reproduceable color result. Using Adobe RGB is only important for things when making design for print work and such, but also if you know your pantone colors you can just set them as needed and ignore what your eyes are telling you on even the worst display, and I have done things that way in the past.
Anti-glare is an entirely different argument. It is known that most of the value display have none. Some people find that to be a big problem, and it can be depend on your environment and where you may be forced to have the diplay oriented facing a window or something which would be very disruptive to viewing. On the other end you have Dell, which insist on using the most aggressive ag coating and I find that disruptive also. There really are far too few display of any type or size that have a good light ag coating that dosen't disturb the percieved color making it look dull and lifeless and not become a mirror for the user either. It seems that it is a very difficult balance to make for manufacturer.
Personally I would rather have none ag coating than one that is too much. My room has a convenient layout where it is no problem to me at all with having a glossy display. It certainly is something one needs to consider before purchase.

It's not a matter of accuracy.. because most people here arn't printing anything..  What matters is that "certain" colors can even SHOW UP on the display you're looking at...

If it doesn't have that color,, it doesn't have it...  there's no way around this...  AND THE DIFFERENCE IS night and day between a 70% panel and a 110% panel...

[IvanIvanovich]

Well first of all the software even needs to be AWARE of Adobe RGB, which outside of software for graphics/design/color/photo work there really isn't much of, as there is no reason for it. Which is why I said for most user it is wholly irrelevent as they don't use such software, or if so something like photoshop essentials for very basic thing. Even in Adobe software you have to enable it specifically and go out of your way to configure everything as it default to sRGB anyway.
It's not really important for average person at all, and makes no difference to non professional as a monitor selection criteria.
Reliable print color reproduction was 99% of the reason it was created in the first place.

At the same time though there is sRGB, which is far more common and used in almost everything by default. Most will also tell you it has more predictable result and better color reproduction in real life as well.

I think you are getting confused between just color gamut in general. Display can have a very wide color gamut and a low Adobe RGB compliance ratio. It dosen't make it a bad display if you don't use Adobe RGB in your workflow.

[DanGWanG]

Going with your suggestion lysol thanks

[tp4tissue]

Well first of all the software even needs to be AWARE of Adobe RGB, which outside of software for graphics/design/color/photo work there really isn't much of, as there is no reason for it. Which is why I said for most user it is wholly irrelevent as they don't use such software, or if so something like photoshop essentials for very basic thing. Even in Adobe software you have to enable it specifically and go out of your way to configure everything as it default to sRGB anyway.
It's not really important for average person at all, and makes no difference to non professional as a monitor selection criteria.
Reliable print color reproduction was 99% of the reason it was created in the first place.

At the same time though there is sRGB, which is far more common and used in almost everything by default. Most will also tell you it has more predictable result and better color reproduction in real life as well.

I think you are getting confused between just color gamut in general. Display can have a very wide color gamut and a low Adobe RGB compliance ratio. It dosen't make it a bad display if you don't use Adobe RGB in your workflow.

There is a limited color space that we can see.. the ghetto monitors can reproduce 70% of 70% of that space..  while the more expensive monitor will give you the full 70%

[Hak Foo]

But then the question is "What 70%?"

I recall a lot of video stuff was based around a colour standard produced in the early 1960s, based on what tube televisions could display well.  That's why you rarely see really vibrant reds on old TV shows, for example.  If you have a monitor that can render that vibrant red, good on you, but it will go unexploited by the content you can find elsewhere.

Similarly, you can ask "What 70% of the 70%".  If you're just losing distinction in dim tints of grey, and you only play brilliantly-coloured animation, you're losing little.

It reminds me of my old 486/40 laptop.  Early TFT screen and already like a decade old when I bought it.  It had no real "red" but the colour it could offer was a lovely, rich brown.  I didn't miss the red much.  Now level 2 cache, that I missed.

[tp4tissue]

But then the question is "What 70%?"

I recall a lot of video stuff was based around a colour standard produced in the early 1960s, based on what tube televisions could display well.  That's why you rarely see really vibrant reds on old TV shows, for example.  If you have a monitor that can render that vibrant red, good on you, but it will go unexploited by the content you can find elsewhere.

Similarly, you can ask "What 70% of the 70%".  If you're just losing distinction in dim tints of grey, and you only play brilliantly-coloured animation, you're losing little.

It reminds me of my old 486/40 laptop.  Early TFT screen and already like a decade old when I bought it.  It had no real "red" but the colour it could offer was a lovely, rich brown.  I didn't miss the red much.  Now level 2 cache, that I missed.

The 70% has been a "long term" figure used to describe "current" display technology.  We've increased "a bit" it's likely a little more than 70% these days, but not by very much at all...

the 70% refers to the "visible spectrum"...  Certain high and low energy spectrum we cannot reproduce without using expensive/ probably deadly/ easily worn out lazerzzz.