Custom Full-Size Ducky Plate (for Shine 2 -- for now)

[infiniti]

Custom Full-Size Ducky Plate (for Shine 2 -- for now)

Background
I wanted to lube the browns on my Shine II to see if it would make it feel less scratchy.  I read up on GH and discovered that I can't remove the switch tops since (1) the LEDs were installed and (2) the plate needed to be modified.

As there was no custom plate for full-size keyboards, I've decided to make one. RAWR

I originally intended just to modify the existing plate and call it a day...but i have seen that that's not how things are done here on GH.  I will try my best to make this plate available to others in the future!

It has crossed my mind to make a universal plate but I don't have access to other full-size keyboards for reference.  So...for the time being, this is a custom plate for the Ducky Shine 2.

Updates

13 June 2013
I didn't have time to post an update yesterday.  My meeting with the machine shop was postponed on the account of horrendous traffic and flooding as a result of the rains here in Manila.  The meeting was moved to the afternoon of June 14.  Things to expect from the meeting: (1) initial costs for machining my existing plate and (2) discussions on how they can manufacture a custom plate from raw aluminum sheets.

14 June 2013
Met with my buddy and his production team.  They don't have a laser cutter but they can use a CNC to machine a custom plate.  They'll have a cost estimate ready next week.

They also referred me to another company that does have a laser cutter but they are located out out of town.  They do however just need a drawing to base their price quote on.  jdcarpe has generously offered to help with a drawing file once I post a picture of the plate.

27 June 2013

Contacted three more shops for quotations.  Still waiting for quotations. *yawn* I think I need to get mad to get their attention.

13 July 2013

Finally got the first quote in...converted from Philippine Pesos (US$1=~PHP43), it comes out to US$83 for the 1/16" acrylic prototype and US$154 for a 1/16" stainless steel plate.

Going to post an Interest Check later to see what volume of interest there is for this so I can negotiate for better pricing and/or consider a redesign on the plate as a universal plate of sorts.

Will update this with the link to the Interest Check later.

INTEREST CHECK: http://geekhack.org/index.php?topic=45763

26 July 2013
It's been a while...I've been far too busy with work.

Anyway, got a quote from Beast at US$50 + shipping.  Highly incline to jump on this but I've found another local laser cutter that has the equipment for bending and can do the bent lip on the upper and lower edges of the plate.

The catch is that they need the original plate as a reference to get the bend right.  I don't mind so as long they get it right the first time.

Current Challenge: MAKE TIME TO DISASSEMBLE THE SHINE 2.

20 August 2013

Ok...been far too busy with other things.  Anyway, to ensure that I get this done, I've taken apart my Shine II...and ordered transparent switch top covers that I will keep on my desk as a reminder to get this done.

[raspiguy]

Good idea starting a separate thread - your project certainly deserves some dedicated attention.  Looking forward to hearing how the meeting went.

[bazemk1979]

good idea bro, tons of full boards out there Rosewill,Filco,Upcoming CM XT. Maeby we can somehow help to pitch in so you can make this plate Universal. Oh BTW go for steel instead of Aluminum

[SmallFry]

How would you remove the switch tops unless you modified them individually when you add the plate (for boards with LEDs)?

[VesperSAINT]

I'm glad you made this too! I'd love to have a custom plate for my Ducky DK9008

[infiniti]

Oh BTW go for steel instead of Aluminum

Why steel?  Isn't aluminum stiffer?  Or is that dependent on the aluminum alloy?

How would you remove the switch tops unless you modified them individually when you add the plate (for boards with LEDs)?

WFD post a method where you use a dremel to enlarger the LED slot on the top of the switch housing so that the LED can pass through.  I'll post a picture to better explain this later when I get home. 

Anyway, off to my meeting!

[infiniti]

How would you remove the switch tops unless you modified them individually when you add the plate (for boards with LEDs)?

WFD post a method where you use a dremel to enlarger the LED slot on the top of the switch housing so that the LED can pass through.  I'll post a picture to better explain this later when I get home. 

This is what I was talking about...

Left -- unmodified switch top
Right -- modified switch top


How an unmodified switch top cannot be removed when an LED is installed


How the modified switch top allows removal even when an LED is installed


Edit: fixed the image links.

[jdcarpe]

Do you have the plate removed now? Could you post a pic of it?

I can probably help you with a drawing file to send to a laser cutter, but I need to know what holes besides the switch holes exist in the plate, and their exact location.

Something like this:

[infiniti]

Do you have the plate removed now? Could you post a pic of it?

I can probably help you with a drawing file to send to a laser cutter, but I need to know what holes besides the switch holes exist in the plate, and their exact location.

Something like this:

Show Image

This would be awesome!  Do you need a picture of the bare plate?  Or will a picture of the plate without the caps but with the switches and PCB still attached suffice?

I'll be getting my soldering wick tomorrow and then I can start disassembling my Shine 2.

[jdcarpe]

Do you have the plate removed now? Could you post a pic of it?

I can probably help you with a drawing file to send to a laser cutter, but I need to know what holes besides the switch holes exist in the plate, and their exact location.

Something like this:

Show Image

This would be awesome!  Do you need a picture of the bare plate?  Or will a picture of the plate without the caps but with the switches and PCB still attached suffice?

I'll be getting my soldering wick tomorrow and then I can start disassembling my Shine 2.

If you could remove it from the case, and unscrew all screws, remove any removeable controller, etc. I might be able to get it from a pic of that. :)

I just need to see where any and all holes are.

[badcop]

How would you remove the switch tops unless you modified them individually when you add the plate (for boards with LEDs)?

WFD post a method where you use a dremel to enlarger the LED slot on the top of the switch housing so that the LED can pass through.  I'll post a picture to better explain this later when I get home. 

This is what I was talking about...

Left -- unmodified switch top
Right -- modified switch top

Show Image

How an unmodified switch top cannot be removed when an LED is installed

Show Image

How the modified switch top allows removal even when an LED is installed

Show Image

FYI if you dont have a dremel, a pair of side cutters will work just as well.

[infiniti]

If you could remove it from the case, and unscrew all screws, remove any removeable controller, etc. I might be able to get it from a pic of that.

I just need to see where any and all holes are.

Alright, I'll do that in the morning.

FYI if you dont have a dremel, a pair of side cutters will work just as well.

Really?  I'll try that out.  It sounds faster to do.

[infiniti]

If you could remove it from the case, and unscrew all screws, remove any removeable controller, etc. I might be able to get it from a pic of that.

I just need to see where any and all holes are.

Alright, I'll do that in the morning.

Hey jdcarpe, here are the pictures:

Whole Plate: http://imageshack.us/a/img703/8228/t5y5.jpg
Left Side Detail: http://imageshack.us/a/img6/6488/qir2.jpg
Right Side Detail: http://imageshack.us/a/img507/4913/n8yd.jpg

Pardon the quality... Let me know if there is anything else you need.

[lyrill]

If you could remove it from the case, and unscrew all screws, remove any removeable controller, etc. I might be able to get it from a pic of that.

I just need to see where any and all holes are.

Alright, I'll do that in the morning.

Hey jdcarpe, here are the pictures:

Whole Plate: http://imageshack.us/a/img703/8228/t5y5.jpg
Left Side Detail: http://imageshack.us/a/img6/6488/qir2.jpg
Right Side Detail: http://imageshack.us/a/img507/4913/n8yd.jpg

Pardon the quality... Let me know if there is anything else you need.

what are custom pcb plates for?

[jdcarpe]

If you could remove it from the case, and unscrew all screws, remove any removeable controller, etc. I might be able to get it from a pic of that.

I just need to see where any and all holes are.

Alright, I'll do that in the morning.

Hey jdcarpe, here are the pictures:

Whole Plate: http://imageshack.us/a/img703/8228/t5y5.jpg
Left Side Detail: http://imageshack.us/a/img6/6488/qir2.jpg
Right Side Detail: http://imageshack.us/a/img507/4913/n8yd.jpg

Pardon the quality... Let me know if there is anything else you need.

Thanks! I will work on it and post something in a couple days.

[infiniti]

what are custom pcb plates for?

The custom plates replace the existing plate so that the top cover of the the switch may be removed so that you can:

• swap out the stems and/or springs
  
• lubricate the switch
• apply stickers (these act as a gasket between the upper and lower switch housings)

Thanks! I will work on it and post something in a couple days.

Thanks so very much jd!

[jdcarpe]

Here you go. The screw and standoff holes may not be exactly 100% where they are on the original plate, but they should be within <1mm, and close enough that you can file/drill them out a bit to fit, if you need to.



Edit: Fixed!

[CPTBadAss]

Oh BTW go for steel instead of Aluminum

Why steel?  Isn't aluminum stiffer?  Or is that dependent on the aluminum alloy?

Steel is stiffer than aluminum.

[infiniti]

Here you go. The screw and standoff holes may not be exactly 100% where they are on the original plate, but they should be within <1mm, and close enough that you can file/drill them out a bit to fit, if you need to.

Show Image

Edit: I had the drawing file attached, but there was a slight placement problem with the center standoff hole. I have fixed it, but my office has no internet access at the moment, due to an outage in the area. Once I can access the site from my PC again, I will attach the corrected drawing file.

Thanks jdcarpe!  You work quick!  I look forward to the corrected drawing file. :D

Oh BTW go for steel instead of Aluminum :)

Why steel?  Isn't aluminum stiffer?  Or is that dependent on the aluminum alloy?

Steel is stiffer than aluminum.

Well noted.  I'll check the material options when I contact the laser cutter for a quotation.

[jdcarpe]

It should be good now. Enjoy!

[infiniti]

It should be good now. Enjoy!

Got it! Thanks jdcarpe!

me love you long time!

[lyrill]

Oh BTW go for steel instead of Aluminum

Why steel?  Isn't aluminum stiffer?  Or is that dependent on the aluminum alloy?

How would you remove the switch tops unless you modified them individually when you add the plate (for boards with LEDs)?

WFD post a method where you use a dremel to enlarger the LED slot on the top of the switch housing so that the LED can pass through.  I'll post a picture to better explain this later when I get home. 

Anyway, off to my meeting!

who told you aluminum is stiffer than steel?

wait, well, honestly traditional alu is way too soft, but way to light comparing to steel.

but, Trek makes some sick mountainbike frames with very stiff aluminum. the very least expensive that comes to mind widely used in all kinds of cheap entry level bikes-6061 t6.
"Pound for pound, 6061-T6 is stronger than some steel alloys, but not as strong as others." http://www.cineventions.com/steel_aluminum.html

to think aluminum is anything related to being stiff after my alu parts on my traxxas mini revo bend on every crash..is virtually impossible

[infiniti]

This guy at work was telling me that aluminum was stiffer than aluminum since it snaps when it is bent.

Anyway...I have to talk to the raw material supplier in more detail.  From my initial talks with them, stiffness/strength between aluminum and stainless steel would depend on the alloys being compared.

[infiniti]

Updated the OP:

• the first quote came in and it's expensive
• going to post an IC to get a better idea of volumes for price negotiations

[jdcarpe]

You could try asking The_Beast if he would be willing to make a SS plate from my design for you. His laser guy will do one-off's at a reasonable price. Even with int'l shipping it should be less than the $150 you were quoted.

[infiniti]

Thanks for the heads up jdcarpe!

[Tarzan]

I'd be in for at least one, if prices are close to what I've seen for the G80-18xx and Poker plates.

Where's that IC?

:-)

[infiniti]

I'd be in for at least one, if prices are close to what I've seen for the G80-18xx and Poker plates.

Where's that IC?

:-)

The IC post is pending approval.

I don't want to circumvent the mods and put the google form here.

[WhiteFireDragon]

Finally got the first quote in...converted from Philippine Pesos (US$1=~PHP43), it comes out to US$83 for the 1/16" acrylic prototype and US$154 for a 1/16" stainless steel plate.

This sounds about right. To getting it anywhere near $50 for 1 made either requires some under the table stuff, or if it's a smaller company. Usually prototypes are between $100 - $300 from typical companies. Trust me, I've checked many places. What you want to do is ask them for price increments, and ask Beast to do the prototype from his local cutter.

[infiniti]

Finally got the first quote in...converted from Philippine Pesos (US$1=~PHP43), it comes out to US$83 for the 1/16" acrylic prototype and US$154 for a 1/16" stainless steel plate.

This sounds about right. To getting it anywhere near $50 for 1 made either requires some under the table stuff, or if it's a smaller company. Usually prototypes are between $100 - $300 from typical companies. Trust me, I've checked many places. What you want to do is ask them for price increments, and ask Beast to do the prototype from his local cutter.

The Philippines is ripe with under the table stuff! )

Anyway, I've pm'd Beast already.

[infiniti]

Updated OP:

• took apart the Shine II
• ordered transparent switch top covers