I may be making a lot of assumptions here, but I'm assuming that the OP is not actually a keyboard geek but just wants a "tool" keyboard. E.g. something that conforms to the standard laid down by IBM lo these many years ago when they introduced the venerable Model M so as to not have to deal with a non-standard layout and key spacing, and something that has a very consistent keyfeel across all keys to minimize typing errors. My next assumption is that OP wants something with nice feeling, durable keycaps, because this will be an all day every day tool. The only other info. that I have is that OP is apparently heavy-handed.
So my suggestions are still:
1) Something with Cherry MX Clear switches. If a tenkeyless is acceptable, that's a no-brainer - Leopold FC200. If TKL is not acceptable (in other words, OP needs a full sized 101 or 104 key board) then we're into keyboard geekery, as I'm not aware of a widely available KB with clears. If noise is not an issue, then MX Blue would be almost as good and opens up a lot more options - as someone who isn't here anymore used to say "nobody ever got fired for buying a Filco" and while I'll bet that's not completely true (if I tried to expense a Filco, I might be) a Filco MJ2 (maybe a Ninja so the keycaps don't wear so obviously?) with blues would fill the bill nicely, although another good suggestion would be to get a WASD "naked" board and then get some of IMSTO's PBT keycaps. That would be a heck of a nice feeling board. However, based on previous comments, I don't think that blues are really the way to go.
2) a real deal IBM Model M. At least here in the US you can still occasionally find them in junk stores, or just pick one up off eBay for $30 or so. If you can deal with the spectacular racket that it makes, it is an awful nice feeling keyboard for those with heavy-handed tendencies, and is darn near indestructable. Dye-sublimated PBT keycaps *STOCK* make this essentially a stronger, heavier, louder version of my WASD blue/IMSTO PBT suggestion above. There's a reason I have two of these beasts still. Will require an active PS/2 to USB adapter if you do not have a PS/2 port. If you decide to go down that road let us know and I'll tell you the part number I'm using when I get home... there are some that aren't that good and a few that are known to work well with a variety of vintage boards. But if MX Blues are too loud... well then. Might as well scratch this one off the list.
3) A Dell AT-101(w) or SGI Granite board. I personally am not much of an Alps fan but it can't be denied that their tactility kicks any MX's butt. The difference is that the tactile/actuation point is very near the top of the keystroke, unlike the Cherry MX or Model M which is about halfway down. The thing that I don't like about them, but some might not have a problem with, is that the force to depress falls off a cliff after you pass the tactile point, so at least for me it is darn near impossible to keep from bottoming out, while I can "float" on my board with MX clears with just a little concentration and effort. But these boards as well will have to be purchased used. I don't know anything about the newer Alps keyboards that are on the market, whether they're any good or not, and which would have comparable tactility to the old ones. If noise is an issue then go for the dampened cream Alps in the SGI board, but those are becoming hard to find. Both will require adapter as above.
4) Dell QuietKey as mentioned above (the best of the domes.) Will also require adapter as above.
5) if tactility is not important, Cherry MX Black might be acceptable as well, and actually are really nice as a change from the clears/browns/etc. Sometimes I just rotate between my Filco that I modded to clears and my old Wyse PS/2 board with blacks just to give my fingers a different feel. The lack of tactility isn't as important as you think when the key switches actuate at the same travel distance across the board.
The sad truth is, aside from the new wave of high quality keyboard manufacturers (mostly using Cherry MX switches, and most often browns, blues, or blacks - although more often recently reds as well) like Filco, Leopold, WASD, Das, etc. the best keyboards you are likely to find are not on the shelves at your local electronics sellin' emporium, but in a dusty closet in the CS department of your local college or univerity (or in the dumpster of same!) Keyboards were much higher quality 15-20 years ago than they are today, sadly - and some of the $5 specials that come packaged with new desktops are unmitigated garbage (with some of the more expensive ones being fancier garbage with more features that doesn't feel any better.)
I have a feeling that my criteria for getting a keyboard were nearly the same as the OPs a couple years ago... I needed a board for work, where I sit in front of a PC for hours at a stretch. I got sick of using the garbage in the IT closet, but my beloved Model M apparently was irritating to coworkers. At the time Leopold hadn't introduced the FC200 w/ clears yet so I bought a used Filco MJ2 w/ browns, swapped all the switches to clears, and just for some desk bling added some old school Cherry Corp. doubleshot beige/grey keycaps, with some RGBYs and a red ESC key thrown in for good measure. (yeah, the last was extraneous. but it looks awesome.) This board is damn near perfect for what I need it for, and every time I swap it out for something else I keep coming back to it.
Here's what I would do in the OP's shoes TODAY - just get the Leopold FC200 "Tactile Force" (code for clears) since it is available, and at the same time purchase a Goldtouch or Filco separate numpad. That way the numpad would be available for use but you wouldn't have such a reach from the right hand home position to the mouse in normal typing. I'm keeping an eye out for a numpad for just that reason; I love my Filco 104, but while I do use the numpad it is not as often as I switch between typing and mousing, and I already have a FC200. 2nd option - if the OP does not think that tactility is important, and thinks that a heavy linear like the Cherry MX Black would be acceptable (they do feel nice!) then I would just get one of any number of the quality MX Black boards, either TKL or full size, although again, I'd be tempted to get a naked WASD so I could pick my own keycaps, and then get a set of those nice dye-sub PBTs for the best feel on the fingertips.
Just my thoughts...