Author Topic: Simple Questions, Simple Answers (FAQ in the OP)  (Read 3478697 times)

0 Members and 1 Guest are viewing this topic.

Offline MKULTRA

  • Posts: 1197
  • Location: IN
  • telling it how it is
Re: Simple Questions, Simple Answers (FAQ in the OP)
« Reply #2900 on: Wed, 03 July 2013, 21:37:45 »
Putting lead weights into my Pure case won't make it feel any more solid....
Yes obviously not when flexing it.  But some people just like to lift something that feels heavier rather than lighter.

Offline Melvang

  • Exquisite Lord of Bumfluff
  • * Maker
  • Posts: 4398
  • Location: Waterloo, IA
  • Melvang's Desktop Customs
Re: Simple Questions, Simple Answers (FAQ in the OP)
« Reply #2901 on: Wed, 03 July 2013, 21:40:34 »
Putting lead weights into my Pure case won't make it feel any more solid....
Yes obviously not when flexing it.  But some people just like to lift something that feels heavier rather than lighter.

This is where aluminum cases come in.
OG Kishsaver, Razer Orbweaver clears and reds with blue LEDs, and Razer Naga Epic.   "Great minds crawl in the same sewer"  Uncle Rich

Offline MKULTRA

  • Posts: 1197
  • Location: IN
  • telling it how it is
Re: Simple Questions, Simple Answers (FAQ in the OP)
« Reply #2902 on: Wed, 03 July 2013, 21:41:49 »
Putting lead weights into my Pure case won't make it feel any more solid....
Yes obviously not when flexing it.  But some people just like to lift something that feels heavier rather than lighter.

This is where aluminum cases come in.
I suppose.  I'm just trying to answer his question lol.  It technically does not make it any sturdier or rigid.  However it will be heavier, if you are into that kind of thing.

Offline IvanIvanovich

  • Mr. Silk Underwear
  • Posts: 8199
  • Location: USA
Re: Simple Questions, Simple Answers (FAQ in the OP)
« Reply #2903 on: Wed, 03 July 2013, 21:47:31 »
Best easiest way to make a PCB mount keyboard feel more solid without totally ruining the PCB mount feeling and personality is an underplate. Put a piece of steel under the PCB, insulated of course. For a 60% it's a pretty simple affair of having it cut to the correct size and drilling the mounting holes as needed.
« Last Edit: Wed, 03 July 2013, 21:49:34 by IvanIvanovich »

Offline KaLam1ty

  • Posts: 88
Re: Simple Questions, Simple Answers (FAQ in the OP)
« Reply #2904 on: Wed, 03 July 2013, 21:53:49 »
True, adding weights won't make the board feel more solid in terms of rigidity, but the Poker II already has a backplate to cover that.
I want to give it more weight to give the board a greater feeling of heftiness when I move it around. Anyone know if this is possible to do
with the Poker II?

And yes, an aluminum case would solve what I'm looking for, but my wallet is pretty dusty right now  :)).

Thanks for the responses guys.

edit:
@Ivan
A steel plate, cut to size, sounds like a good idea actually. Anyone have any idea as to how much clearing I could put underneath the PCB? I'd rather get an idea first before I go
and break this thing open. (Just got the deck today  :p).
« Last Edit: Wed, 03 July 2013, 21:56:46 by KaLam1ty »

Offline IvanIvanovich

  • Mr. Silk Underwear
  • Posts: 8199
  • Location: USA
Re: Simple Questions, Simple Answers (FAQ in the OP)
« Reply #2905 on: Wed, 03 July 2013, 22:01:06 »
The way I always have done this mod, is plate then .5mm rubber sheet, (clip any extra long pokies sticking out of through hole components as needed) then PCB. If it needs a mounting screw like Poker/Pure you might need to find some that are a tiny bit longer, but usually I just do this with G80 which is all friction fit.

Offline Topre

  • Posts: 149
Re: Simple Questions, Simple Answers (FAQ in the OP)
« Reply #2906 on: Thu, 04 July 2013, 02:34:59 »
Why do most full-sized keyboards have 18x8 matrices? There obviously isn't 144 keys in most keyboards, and even if there were a 12x12 matrix would save more space. A 12x12 would need 24 traces compared to 26 on an 18x8.

Offline Melvang

  • Exquisite Lord of Bumfluff
  • * Maker
  • Posts: 4398
  • Location: Waterloo, IA
  • Melvang's Desktop Customs
Re: Simple Questions, Simple Answers (FAQ in the OP)
« Reply #2907 on: Thu, 04 July 2013, 09:34:45 »
Would it be possible to build a trackball with many buttons under the thumb?  Think of it as a trackball version of the Razer Naga without the Synapse crapware.  Would it be feasible?
OG Kishsaver, Razer Orbweaver clears and reds with blue LEDs, and Razer Naga Epic.   "Great minds crawl in the same sewer"  Uncle Rich

Offline CPTBadAss

  • Woke up like this
  • Thread Starter
  • Posts: 14363
    • Tactile Zine
Re: Simple Questions, Simple Answers (FAQ in the OP)
« Reply #2908 on: Thu, 04 July 2013, 09:59:01 »
Why do most full-sized keyboards have 18x8 matrices? There obviously isn't 144 keys in most keyboards, and even if there were a 12x12 matrix would save more space. A 12x12 would need 24 traces compared to 26 on an 18x8.

Maybe standardization? It's easier to crank out that size for some reason?

Would it be possible to build a trackball with many buttons under the thumb?  Think of it as a trackball version of the Razer Naga without the Synapse crapware.  Would it be feasible?

I don't see why this wouldn't work. In fact, it sounds pretty awesome

Offline yicaoyimu

  • Posts: 1133
  • Location: San Jose, CA
Re: Simple Questions, Simple Answers (FAQ in the OP)
« Reply #2909 on: Thu, 04 July 2013, 10:06:04 »
Does any generation of KMAC pcb support full keyboard LED? I know KMAC2 supports LED only for F keys, WASD, caps lock and scroll lock, to my disappointment.
KMAC2 - Matrix Lab 8XV2.0 - TGR Jane v2 CE - KBD8X MKII - Meridian - Matrix Lab Noah - Fallacy x2 - MGA Standard - Geon Frog mini - Amano - Ciel60 - Prime_Elise - Matrix Lab 6XV3.0 aka Corsa

Offline CPTBadAss

  • Woke up like this
  • Thread Starter
  • Posts: 14363
    • Tactile Zine
Re: Simple Questions, Simple Answers (FAQ in the OP)
« Reply #2910 on: Thu, 04 July 2013, 10:09:56 »
Does any generation of KMAC pcb support full keyboard LED? I know KMAC2 supports LED only for F keys, WASD, caps lock and scroll lock, to my disappointment.

Don't think so. My KMAC LE also only supports that. But check out Dianoda's LZ.

Offline yicaoyimu

  • Posts: 1133
  • Location: San Jose, CA
Re: Simple Questions, Simple Answers (FAQ in the OP)
« Reply #2911 on: Thu, 04 July 2013, 10:12:26 »
Does any generation of KMAC pcb support full keyboard LED? I know KMAC2 supports LED only for F keys, WASD, caps lock and scroll lock, to my disappointment.

Don't think so. My KMAC LE also only supports that. But check out Dianoda's LZ.

Thank you for your reply. Maybe I should just wait for the next generation 87 keys layout KMAC.
KMAC2 - Matrix Lab 8XV2.0 - TGR Jane v2 CE - KBD8X MKII - Meridian - Matrix Lab Noah - Fallacy x2 - MGA Standard - Geon Frog mini - Amano - Ciel60 - Prime_Elise - Matrix Lab 6XV3.0 aka Corsa

Offline Photoelectric

  • * Administrator
  • Posts: 6766
Re: Simple Questions, Simple Answers (FAQ in the OP)
« Reply #2912 on: Thu, 04 July 2013, 10:57:47 »
What are the approximate Korean spring equivalents of modern AND vintage MX Blacks?  I'm trying to figure out if swapping 65g springs into vintage MX Blacks is going to make them slightly lighter or a lot lighter.
- Keyboards: LZ-GH (Jailhouse Blues)M65-a, MIRA SE, E8-V1, MOON TKL, CA66
- Keyboard Case Painting Tips -
- Join Mechanical Keyboards photography group on Flickr -

Offline CPTBadAss

  • Woke up like this
  • Thread Starter
  • Posts: 14363
    • Tactile Zine
Re: Simple Questions, Simple Answers (FAQ in the OP)
« Reply #2913 on: Thu, 04 July 2013, 11:00:18 »
What are the approximate Korean spring equivalents of modern AND vintage MX Blacks?  I'm trying to figure out if swapping 65g springs into vintage MX Blacks is going to make them slightly lighter or a lot lighter.

Not sure about the Vintage Blacks thing. I'm still unsure if they're lighter/smoother because of a change in design/creation or just from wear.

65g and 67g are probably closest to regular MX Blacks. Binge says his 2TU has 68g springs, but I'm not sure if those actually exist or if they're gold spring 67g which means the bottom out force would be more around 68g.

Offline Photoelectric

  • * Administrator
  • Posts: 6766
Re: Simple Questions, Simple Answers (FAQ in the OP)
« Reply #2914 on: Thu, 04 July 2013, 11:07:18 »
They definitely are smoother!  I have a vintage MX Black switch, and getting more next week (brand new, so they won't have been worn in).  My single vintage MX Black switch at the moment is super smooth and lighter--I love it.  Just did a simple nickel test, looks like it bottoms out somewhere between 65 and 70g, closer to 65g.  Maybe it's the dramatically low friction that makes them feel lighter than modern Black.
- Keyboards: LZ-GH (Jailhouse Blues)M65-a, MIRA SE, E8-V1, MOON TKL, CA66
- Keyboard Case Painting Tips -
- Join Mechanical Keyboards photography group on Flickr -

Offline Topre

  • Posts: 149
Re: Simple Questions, Simple Answers (FAQ in the OP)
« Reply #2915 on: Thu, 04 July 2013, 12:32:45 »
Why do most full-sized keyboards have 18x8 matrices? There obviously isn't 144 keys in most keyboards, and even if there were a 12x12 matrix would save more space. A 12x12 would need 24 traces compared to 26 on an 18x8.

Maybe standardization? It's easier to crank out that size for some reason?

Is it really because of standardization? When tracing matrices of keyboards, it seems like the extra few columns are for modifiers. For example, the CST104 board has it's own column for a single right windows key and left windows key. Both of the shift-keys share the same column alone. Both control-keys share a column with F5 and Pause/Break. Both Alt-keys share a column with Print Screen and Scroll Lock. It seems like the doing this will make NKRO easier, or at least have KRO + modifiers for no ghosting.

Offline CPTBadAss

  • Woke up like this
  • Thread Starter
  • Posts: 14363
    • Tactile Zine
Re: Simple Questions, Simple Answers (FAQ in the OP)
« Reply #2916 on: Thu, 04 July 2013, 12:40:33 »
I have no idea. Was taking a guess.

Offline Topre

  • Posts: 149
Re: Simple Questions, Simple Answers (FAQ in the OP)
« Reply #2917 on: Thu, 04 July 2013, 12:44:49 »
I'm taking a guess too, but it would be interesting to find out the roots of the 18x8 matrix.

Offline CPTBadAss

  • Woke up like this
  • Thread Starter
  • Posts: 14363
    • Tactile Zine
Re: Simple Questions, Simple Answers (FAQ in the OP)
« Reply #2918 on: Thu, 04 July 2013, 12:45:34 »
Make a separate thread where someone way smarter than me can chime in man ^__^

I'm not sure if it's a simple answer to your questions.

Offline CPTBadAss

  • Woke up like this
  • Thread Starter
  • Posts: 14363
    • Tactile Zine
Re: Simple Questions, Simple Answers (FAQ in the OP)
« Reply #2919 on: Thu, 04 July 2013, 20:43:35 »
So this Cherry Plate Mounted Stabilizers from Mouser.

What is the part number at Mouser for PCB mounted Cherry stabilizers?

Offline Photekq

  • wheat flour zone
  • Posts: 4794
  • Location: North Wales, UK
  • sorry if i was ever an ******* to you
Re: Simple Questions, Simple Answers (FAQ in the OP)
« Reply #2920 on: Thu, 04 July 2013, 21:13:41 »
Does anyone know where I can find the costar stabiliser specsheet, or does anyone know what the maximum internal radii for costar stabiliser holes is?

Answer found. Maximum interal radii is the same as Cherry switch holes - 0.012in
« Last Edit: Fri, 05 July 2013, 00:17:11 by Photekq »
https://kbdarchive.org/
github
discord: hi mum#5710

Offline Melvang

  • Exquisite Lord of Bumfluff
  • * Maker
  • Posts: 4398
  • Location: Waterloo, IA
  • Melvang's Desktop Customs
Re: Simple Questions, Simple Answers (FAQ in the OP)
« Reply #2921 on: Fri, 05 July 2013, 00:04:09 »
Does anyone know where I can find the costar stabiliser specsheet, or does anyone know what the maximum internal radii for costar stabiliser holes is?

I see what you did there.
OG Kishsaver, Razer Orbweaver clears and reds with blue LEDs, and Razer Naga Epic.   "Great minds crawl in the same sewer"  Uncle Rich

Offline Melvang

  • Exquisite Lord of Bumfluff
  • * Maker
  • Posts: 4398
  • Location: Waterloo, IA
  • Melvang's Desktop Customs
Re: Simple Questions, Simple Answers (FAQ in the OP)
« Reply #2922 on: Fri, 05 July 2013, 10:16:47 »
Sorry about the double post but it has been 10 hours since the previous post and I had a couple questions. 

Has anyone ever tried to use an Orbweaver without the plastic plate that restricts cap usage?

And the other night I was building a really custom cable for my top secret project and I jumped the wire insulation with the tip on my soldering iron.  Now that stuff got burnt on real quick and that side of the tip won't tin.  Any suggestions on how to fix this issue?  So far the only things I have tried is tinning the crap out of that side and my brass tip cleaning "sponge".  I am paranoid to take more aggressive actions because I don't want to lose the nickel coating.
OG Kishsaver, Razer Orbweaver clears and reds with blue LEDs, and Razer Naga Epic.   "Great minds crawl in the same sewer"  Uncle Rich

Offline CPTBadAss

  • Woke up like this
  • Thread Starter
  • Posts: 14363
    • Tactile Zine
Re: Simple Questions, Simple Answers (FAQ in the OP)
« Reply #2923 on: Fri, 05 July 2013, 17:54:14 »
Binge told me last night he couldn't figure out how to remove that plate on the caps.

Offline CPTBadAss

  • Woke up like this
  • Thread Starter
  • Posts: 14363
    • Tactile Zine
Re: Simple Questions, Simple Answers (FAQ in the OP)
« Reply #2924 on: Fri, 05 July 2013, 18:42:16 »
So this Cherry Plate Mounted Stabilizers from Mouser.

What is the part number at Mouser for PCB mounted Cherry stabilizers?

I'm double posting and answering my own question. Binge found the Cherry Datasheet which has info on the stabilized keys. Link for the sheet is here.

Part numbers for the stabilizer:



Frame = Plate Mounted
w/o frame = PCB Mounted

Offline Glissant

  • Posts: 1976
  • Location: Oslo, Norway
Re: Simple Questions, Simple Answers (FAQ in the OP)
« Reply #2925 on: Fri, 05 July 2013, 20:29:20 »
Does it matter which way the surface Mount diodes are soldered on to the pads on the pcb? Specifically wondering when it comes to the first batch of ergodox.

Offline nubbinator

  • Dabbler Supreme
  • * Maker
  • Posts: 8658
  • Location: Orange County, CA
  • Model M "connoisseur"
Re: Simple Questions, Simple Answers (FAQ in the OP)
« Reply #2926 on: Fri, 05 July 2013, 20:31:36 »
Does it matter which way the surface Mount diodes are soldered on to the pads on the pcb? Specifically wondering when it comes to the first batch of ergodox.

In general, directionality matters on diodes, so I would imagine so.  I haven't done an ErgoDox, so I can't say for sure, but I would imagine it holds true.

Offline CPTBadAss

  • Woke up like this
  • Thread Starter
  • Posts: 14363
    • Tactile Zine
Re: Simple Questions, Simple Answers (FAQ in the OP)
« Reply #2927 on: Fri, 05 July 2013, 20:42:17 »
Yeah it should matter, the direction determines the polarity. One end should have a line, the other end doesn't. The side with the line is negative on a diode or the cathode on SMD diode. The cathode is a black line on a 1N4148 diode. Check out the picture (Borrowed from SparkFun) below:




On PCBs, they often have little diagrams showing you which end is the cathode. For example, my KMAC has this:



So you just match the lines up.

And if you have just regular diodes, they'll line up like this (Props to Sifo for the pic):



And I'm linking this picture just for more info on plain/non-SMD diodes. Picture found here.



Also check out this post for more information.
« Last Edit: Thu, 14 November 2013, 19:56:15 by CPTBadAss »

Offline Glissant

  • Posts: 1976
  • Location: Oslo, Norway
Re: Simple Questions, Simple Answers (FAQ in the OP)
« Reply #2928 on: Fri, 05 July 2013, 21:10:41 »
Thanks for the excellent answers.
I imagined it would matter but I didn't see a line or any indicator on the diodes, so got confused.
I have so much work to do on this edox now because of this stupid mistake.

Thanks again :).
« Last Edit: Fri, 05 July 2013, 21:31:47 by Glissant »

Offline CPTBadAss

  • Woke up like this
  • Thread Starter
  • Posts: 14363
    • Tactile Zine
Re: Simple Questions, Simple Answers (FAQ in the OP)
« Reply #2929 on: Fri, 05 July 2013, 21:11:34 »
Oh no Glissbro! :(

Let me know how it goes Dai Lo <3. I wanna try your ergo-dox  ;)

Offline Glissant

  • Posts: 1976
  • Location: Oslo, Norway
Re: Simple Questions, Simple Answers (FAQ in the OP)
« Reply #2930 on: Fri, 05 July 2013, 23:04:48 »
Yeah made some stupid mistakes. I think I can make out a line on the diodes, but it's really hard to see. Should have just dealt with the through-hole diodes instead xD.


You'll be the third on the list to try it when I finally get it fixed, sai lo :). First I want to make my Epsilon though.


Offline CPTBadAss

  • Woke up like this
  • Thread Starter
  • Posts: 14363
    • Tactile Zine
Re: Simple Questions, Simple Answers (FAQ in the OP)
« Reply #2931 on: Fri, 05 July 2013, 23:26:59 »
Let me know if you have any other questions Glissbro. And third? THIRD? I see how it is...:P

Offline Glissant

  • Posts: 1976
  • Location: Oslo, Norway
Re: Simple Questions, Simple Answers (FAQ in the OP)
« Reply #2932 on: Sat, 06 July 2013, 00:22:31 »
The wife and I clearly get priority, sai lo <3.

Epsilon or LZ-GH for my next build to screw up? =p

Offline CPTBadAss

  • Woke up like this
  • Thread Starter
  • Posts: 14363
    • Tactile Zine
Re: Simple Questions, Simple Answers (FAQ in the OP)
« Reply #2933 on: Sat, 06 July 2013, 00:23:19 »
LZ-GH! <3

Offline The_Beast

  • * Maker
  • Posts: 3964
  • Location: Wisconsin
  • I like wood ಠ_๏
Re: Simple Questions, Simple Answers (FAQ in the OP)
« Reply #2934 on: Sat, 06 July 2013, 00:24:15 »
The wife and I clearly get priority, sai lo <3.

Epsilon or LZ-GH for my next build to screw up? =p

Epsilon. Not knocking metalliqaz, but the LZ-GH is a #legit board and I'm guessing would be harder to find parts/PCB board if you mess it up royally
Vendor Status: Sadly, not taking any orders/pre-orders at this time

Vendor Quick Links: | Vendor Forum | Hardwood Wrist Rests | Hardwood 60% Cases | Customer Gallery | Giveaway |

Offline Glissant

  • Posts: 1976
  • Location: Oslo, Norway
Re: Simple Questions, Simple Answers (FAQ in the OP)
« Reply #2935 on: Sat, 06 July 2013, 00:30:12 »
No plans to actually break anything ;) . Looks like I might have to get some more stabs before I can build both the boards as my mouser order seems to be plate mounted.
LZ-GH it is then. Thankfully those resistors are clearly marked for an old man like me ;) .

Offline CPTBadAss

  • Woke up like this
  • Thread Starter
  • Posts: 14363
    • Tactile Zine
Re: Simple Questions, Simple Answers (FAQ in the OP)
« Reply #2936 on: Sat, 06 July 2013, 00:35:21 »
I had to do a lot of research before I figured out all the diode stuff so it's all good.

Offline shadowness

  • Posts: 33
  • Location: Australia
Re: Simple Questions, Simple Answers (FAQ in the OP)
« Reply #2937 on: Sat, 06 July 2013, 04:03:19 »
wanna ask to anyone who got backlit keyboard and black ABS keycap.... do the light leaks out when you turn on the backlit ?

cos I bought a light blue ABS from wasd and it leaks out the light so it doesnt look nice... i am thinking to get a side print keycaps now but if black still lets light through then Im gonna need double shot/ PBT ones....

Offline CPTBadAss

  • Woke up like this
  • Thread Starter
  • Posts: 14363
    • Tactile Zine
Re: Simple Questions, Simple Answers (FAQ in the OP)
« Reply #2938 on: Sat, 06 July 2013, 10:31:24 »
wanna ask to anyone who got backlit keyboard and black ABS keycap.... do the light leaks out when you turn on the backlit ?

Yes, backlighting will leak out. It's not the color of the cap that matters as much as the thickness and material of the caps. Check out this post for an idea of what backlighting might look light. I know it's not black caps but it doesn't really matter too much.

Offline Glod

  • * Elevated Elder
  • Posts: 1998
  • Location: Virginia, USA
  • Also Known As Ergonomech
    • YouTube Channel
Re: Simple Questions, Simple Answers (FAQ in the OP)
« Reply #2939 on: Sat, 06 July 2013, 21:43:22 »
I am running out of weekend keyboard projects; partly because i still don't have my clear's from prof and i am still waiting on the acrylic poker case. GH60s are far away still.

soooooooooo...

Simple Question to other geekhack members:

What should i work on as my next weekend keyboard project?

Extra Info: I have some extra teensy units and i know how to solder pretty well now but i don't know how to program them yet. I was thinking doing some sort of programmable keyboard project with an old keyboard like IBM (using  Soarer instructions), but ill need advice on what old keyboard i should grab and restore.

Offline CPTBadAss

  • Woke up like this
  • Thread Starter
  • Posts: 14363
    • Tactile Zine
Re: Simple Questions, Simple Answers (FAQ in the OP)
« Reply #2940 on: Sat, 06 July 2013, 21:55:29 »
What should i work on as my next weekend keyboard project?

Teensy mod an old board: USB and Program it. Sounds pretty awesome. Oh, and build log

Offline Glod

  • * Elevated Elder
  • Posts: 1998
  • Location: Virginia, USA
  • Also Known As Ergonomech
    • YouTube Channel
Re: Simple Questions, Simple Answers (FAQ in the OP)
« Reply #2941 on: Sat, 06 July 2013, 22:09:26 »
any suggestions on what old board i should purchase to do a teensy mod? affordable one preferably as this probably will never be a primary keyboard for me. Not going for the super rare stuff.

Offline CPTBadAss

  • Woke up like this
  • Thread Starter
  • Posts: 14363
    • Tactile Zine
Re: Simple Questions, Simple Answers (FAQ in the OP)
« Reply #2942 on: Sat, 06 July 2013, 22:11:13 »
Model M 1391401

Offline Glod

  • * Elevated Elder
  • Posts: 1998
  • Location: Virginia, USA
  • Also Known As Ergonomech
    • YouTube Channel
Re: Simple Questions, Simple Answers (FAQ in the OP)
« Reply #2943 on: Sat, 06 July 2013, 22:18:01 »
pretty specific answer there.

Offline CPTBadAss

  • Woke up like this
  • Thread Starter
  • Posts: 14363
    • Tactile Zine
Re: Simple Questions, Simple Answers (FAQ in the OP)
« Reply #2944 on: Sat, 06 July 2013, 22:22:20 »
pretty specific answer there.

It's just the "standard" Model M that people think of when you say Model M. Didn't want you to hunt like a Model F Unsaver or something rare like you said.

Offline Glod

  • * Elevated Elder
  • Posts: 1998
  • Location: Virginia, USA
  • Also Known As Ergonomech
    • YouTube Channel
Re: Simple Questions, Simple Answers (FAQ in the OP)
« Reply #2945 on: Sat, 06 July 2013, 22:33:02 »
Cost appears doable for this Model M, gonna sleep on it :)

Offline Melvang

  • Exquisite Lord of Bumfluff
  • * Maker
  • Posts: 4398
  • Location: Waterloo, IA
  • Melvang's Desktop Customs
Re: Simple Questions, Simple Answers (FAQ in the OP)
« Reply #2946 on: Sun, 07 July 2013, 02:28:03 »
So what is the difference internally between an active and a passive PS/2 to USB converter?
OG Kishsaver, Razer Orbweaver clears and reds with blue LEDs, and Razer Naga Epic.   "Great minds crawl in the same sewer"  Uncle Rich

Offline smknjoe

  • Posts: 862
  • Location: Tejas
  • I like tactile, clicky, switches.
SSKs for everyone!

Offline Melvang

  • Exquisite Lord of Bumfluff
  • * Maker
  • Posts: 4398
  • Location: Waterloo, IA
  • Melvang's Desktop Customs
Re: Simple Questions, Simple Answers (FAQ in the OP)
« Reply #2948 on: Sun, 07 July 2013, 02:56:26 »
Thanks joe. 

Another question for you guys.  Any suggestions on mounting a teensy without being soldered to the PCB as my project won't have one.  I don't like the idea of double sided sticky tape either.
OG Kishsaver, Razer Orbweaver clears and reds with blue LEDs, and Razer Naga Epic.   "Great minds crawl in the same sewer"  Uncle Rich

Offline nubbinator

  • Dabbler Supreme
  • * Maker
  • Posts: 8658
  • Location: Orange County, CA
  • Model M "connoisseur"
Re: Simple Questions, Simple Answers (FAQ in the OP)
« Reply #2949 on: Sun, 07 July 2013, 03:06:48 »
Another question for you guys.  Any suggestions on mounting a teensy without being soldered to the PCB as my project won't have one.  I don't like the idea of double sided sticky tape either.

If you won't use double sided tape, I suppose you could do something like mount the Teensy on a PCB like this one or this one, attach stand offs the the PCB, and epoxy the standoffs in place.  Double side tape would be much easier though.  Or, if you're never going to move or remove the Teensy, I suppose you could exposy or hot glue it in place.  I'd still go with the PCB or double sided tape suggestion though.