Simple Questions, Simple Answers (FAQ in the OP)

[domoaligato]

Hey, I just learned basically how a controler works and was a little surprised that it scans the columns one by one to know witch switches are activated (it makes sense but I was still surprised).

But 2 questions came to my mind:

1. What's the polling rate for a full cycle (how long it takes to scan all the columns once). I suspect it varies depending on the controler itself, so how to know whats the polling rate of a specific controler and what's a typical polling rate for a modern controler?

2. Is there a way to get the same result without having to have a direct connexion to the controler for each switch?

2. most custom firmware does not require a connection to every switch directly. they are connected via a matrix.
so only one wire per column and one wire per row.

[JPG]

Hey, I just learned basically how a controller works and was a little surprised that it scans the columns one by one to know witch switches are activated (it makes sense but I was still surprised).

But 2 questions came to my mind:

1. What's the polling rate for a full cycle (how long it takes to scan all the columns once). I suspect it varies depending on the controller itself, so how to know whats the polling rate of a specific controller and what's a typical polling rate for a modern controller?

2. Is there a way to get the same result without having to have a direct connection to the controller for each switch?

2. most custom firmware does not require a connection to every switch directly. they are connected via a matrix.
so only one wire per column and one wire per row.

You got my question wrong: I understand that the controller scans each columns of the matrix and that it's the way for the controller to know which key(s) are pressed, but I wanted to know if there was a way to achieve this without having to scan the columns but rather to "always" know which key(s) are pressed anytime (not only when the column is scanned). With a direct connection to each switch, it would be possible, but it would require a controller with as many pins as you have switches, so I rather want to know if it is possible to work with a matrix but one that would have no need to scan the columns individually (maybe with a double matrix and an algorithm or something else).

[Melvang]

1.  The only difference between the FC660M and the FC660C is the "M" is Cherry MX and the "C" is Topre switches correct?

2.  Is there any odd ball sized keys that make it a pain to get a set of caps for on the Cherry version?

[Xenderwind]

1.  The only difference between the FC660M and the FC660C is the "M" is Cherry MX and the "C" is Topre switches correct?

2.  Is there any odd ball sized keys that make it a pain to get a set of caps for on the Cherry version?

1.  I believe so

2.  looking at this picture
Theres a short right shift, a 1x? modifier and I believe that means the spacebar is not a standard size.

[Melvang]

1.  The only difference between the FC660M and the FC660C is the "M" is Cherry MX and the "C" is Topre switches correct?

2.  Is there any odd ball sized keys that make it a pain to get a set of caps for on the Cherry version?

1.  I believe so

2.  looking at this picture

Show Image

Theres a short right shift, a 1x? modifier and I believe that means the spacebar is not a standard size.

Cool thanks Xenderwind.

Another question. 

Would any of the Teensy boards support PWM for user adjustable LEDs such as whats in the Razer Naga Epic?  If it is possible how difficult would it be to create a program that can communicate with the Teensy to adjust the color and brightness from a windows/mac/linux OS?

Edit:  Is the Race and the Pure the only 2 sub TKL and Sub $250 boards with dedicated arrow keys with caps that are readily available with standard GB's?

[BlueBär]

Edit: Is the Race and the Pure the only 2 sub TKL and Sub $250 boards with dedicated arrow keys with caps that are readily available with standard GB's?

The Pure has no dedicated arrow keys, and if you mean the Pure Pro, it has quite a few keys which you will probably not be able to get via GBs (1x1 shifts and backspace for example).
The Race is not Tsangan kit compatible either.
Here you can see the non-standard keycap sizes of sub TKL boards: The MiniLa Convention.

[CPTBadAss]

1.  The only difference between the FC660M and the FC660C is the "M" is Cherry MX and the "C" is Topre switches correct?

2.  Is there any odd ball sized keys that make it a pain to get a set of caps for on the Cherry version?

1) Correct

2) Xenderwind is right, just wanted to add some more info. Check out this picture from Aggiejy.

[kenmai9]

So I have a Poker X with ergo-clears and I wanted to try mixing it with some Panda clears. What are some examples of ergonomic setups that I can try?

I was thinking something liek the realforce one


But I would change it to only use heavy and light springs, since I don't have a spring in between the two.

FOLLOWUP: I made a layout that I will try. Will edit with my take, so  anyone who reads this can have the answer in my post .



FOLLOWUP 2: I just swapped the springs. It feels really cool. I like it a lot at first try.

[phx]

as a fan of light switches (brown/blue), I'm curious about the korean 55 and 45g springs. Anyone has any experience with them?

[CPTBadAss]

So I have a Poker X with ergo-clears and I wanted to try mixing it with some Panda clears. What kind of ergonomic set up can I do to make it comfortable?

I was thinking something liek the realforce one

Show Image

But I would change it to only use heavy and light springs, since I don't have a spring in between the two.

How would anyone else know what you think is "comfortable". This is something only you would know. If you want to make it variable? Make it variable. For me? I only like uniform boards.

as a fan of light switches (brown/blue), I'm curious about the korean 55 and 45g springs. Anyone has any experience with them?

55g were a touch lighter than Reds with the Korean spring cushiony bottom out. Way too light for me. Never tried 45g.

[kenmai9]

So I have a Poker X with ergo-clears and I wanted to try mixing it with some Panda clears. What kind of ergonomic set up can I do to make it comfortable?

I was thinking something liek the realforce one

Show Image

But I would change it to only use heavy and light springs, since I don't have a spring in between the two.

How would anyone else know what you think is "comfortable". This is something only you would know. If you want to make it variable? Make it variable. For me? I only like uniform boards.

I was asking for examples of what people have done so I can get an idea. I edited my question for clarity. Thanks CPTSassy.

[SpAmRaY]

So I have a Poker X with ergo-clears and I wanted to try mixing it with some Panda clears. What kind of ergonomic set up can I do to make it comfortable?

I was thinking something liek the realforce one

Show Image

But I would change it to only use heavy and light springs, since I don't have a spring in between the two.

How would anyone else know what you think is "comfortable". This is something only you would know. If you want to make it variable? Make it variable. For me? I only like uniform boards.

I was asking for examples of what people have done so I can get an idea. Thanks though.

I'm not sure if anyone has done what your asking. Most people tend to stick with one spring type/weight.

But when I get my phantom back from being built I plan on doing some spring swaps to see what I like best, I plan on doing some modifiers different than the alphas etc.

[CPTBadAss]

How would anyone else know what you think is "comfortable". This is something only you would know. If you want to make it variable? Make it variable. For me? I only like uniform boards.

I was asking for examples of what people have done so I can get an idea. I edited my question for clarity. Thanks CPTSassy.

This thread is called Simple Questions, Simple Answers. Not "Guess At What My Question is and Answer the Question You Think I'm Asking". Clarity and brevity is always good. I can't read your mind and I'm not going to guess what you want. I want to help you, not confuse you.

On a more helpful note, I've seen a lot of people emulate the RealForce setup or have the alphas and modifers have a different layout. In other words, some people like heavier alphas and lighter mods or vice versa. And for some reason, I've seen a lot of custom layouts have linear switches in the WASD and arrows.

[Melvang]

If it helps I like uniform boards but I don't mind other switch types on some keys.  But I have limits.  The only keys that I can do a different switch type are keys where you normally lift your hand from home row to hit.  IE on TKL or full sized boards the nav block, arrow keys, the ten key side, and the ESC key.  Also for me the space bar has to have the same switch type (linear, tactile, clicky) but can have a heavier spring.  The one exception to this is my Orbweave has reds on WASD and either clears or ergo clears on the other switches.  But that is strictly a gaming pad.

Melvang

[lucifurburch]

i was looking at an ibm pc jr and was wondering is it compatible with a modern pc and if not how hard would it b to make it compatible?.....it has Infra-Red conectivity and has a "phone" style conector in the back... dont think the infra red will b much help though

[nubbinator]

i was looking at an ibm pc jr and was wondering is it compatible with a modern pc and if not how hard would it b to make it compatible?.....it has Infra-Red conectivity and has a "phone" style conector in the back... dont think the infra red will b much help though

If you're talking about the one I think you are, don't even bother getting it.  It's a horrible rubber dome keyboard.

[Melvang]

Are there any 75% or smaller boards with dedicated arrow keys that do not have any odd sized caps that make group buys very frustrating?  If not the wife said she could go TKL

[CPTBadAss]

MX Mini?

[jdcarpe]

Also KMAC Mini, if you're willing to do a tsangan kit.

[ComradeSniper]

Is it possible that I could have screwed up the MX switch bottom to where clicky switches won't click? Just moved from MX Clears to MX Whites in my Poker, and Z and backspace might as well be MX reds; there's no click whatsoever. I switched out the stems a few times and it didn't change so all I can see is that I somehow bent the actuation lever in the switch bottom. 

[lucifurburch]

if she likes normal tenkeyless boards
i would recomend a leopold, a quick fire rapid or a filco. the reason... they all compatible with like 99% of after market keycaps with no need for any extra/odd keys.....

[Melvang]

if she likes normal tenkeyless boards
i would recomend a leopold, a quick fire rapid or a filco. the reason... they all compatible with like 99% of after market keycaps with no need for any extra/odd keys.....

Thats what I was thinking mostly due to the price of the KMAC mini and the LZ MX Mini.  I'm sure that a Filco TKL would be considerably cheaper than either of these other 2.  Though the LZ looks like a very nice layout.  Any "stock" TKL out there with plate mount and the Tsangan mods?  That is if the tsangan mods are the 1.5, 1,1.5 setup.

[CPTBadAss]

Any "stock" TKL out there with plate mount and the Tsangan mods?  That is if the tsangan mods are the 1.5, 1,1.5 setup.

Older Cherry boards will have a 1.5x mods but they won't be TKL. Those are the only stock boards I can think of with 1.5x.

[lucifurburch]

is there a reason you want 1.5x mods?
all the keyboards i mentioned earlier use 1.25x mods which is good as they are more common and therefore make it easyer and cheaper to buy keycaps, also the Leopold i mentioned earlier is a little more expensive then the other two but has the most common key layout and cherry stabilizers...meaning it would be easy to change the keycaps and would be the cheapest to buy keycaps for


cherry stabilizers=no annoying stabilizer wires

[Melvang]

is there a reason you want 1.5x mods?
all the keyboards i mentioned earlier use 1.25x mods which is good as they are more common and therefore make it easyer and cheaper to buy keycaps, also the Leopold i mentioned earlier is a little more expensive then the other two but has the most common key layout and cherry stabilizers...meaning it would be easy to change the keycaps and would be the cheapest to buy keycaps for

(Attachment Link)
cherry stabilizers=no annoying stabilizer wires

Just curious mostly will probably stick to the 1.25 mods for the wifes board but a lot of GB's seem to be adding the 1.5 mod kits

[nubbinator]

Just curious mostly will probably stick to the 1.25 mods for the wifes board but a lot of GB's seem to be adding the 1.5 mod kits

You mean a Tsangan kit?  Those are for special keyboard layouts.

[esoomenona]

Just because they're adding them doesn't mean you need them or need a keyboard that has them.

That being said, there are some TKL boards that do have certain 1.5x mods. Usually though, they come with a not so common size spacebar as a result.

[SpAmRaY]

So are stock white switches lighter than clear switches?

And is the only difference between whites and greens, the fact that whites a factory lubed so they are quieter?

Finally has anyone experienced a board with white where a few of the switches didn't click?

And is there a combo of the weight of clears but slightly clicky like whites?

[esoomenona]

So are stock white switches lighter than clear switches?

And is the only difference between whites and greens, the fact that whites a factory lubed so they are quieter?

Finally has anyone experienced a board with white where a few of the switches didn't click?

You're not pulling a MOZ because of things that were said to you, are you...? <_<

[SpAmRaY]

So are stock white switches lighter than clear switches?

And is the only difference between whites and greens, the fact that whites a factory lubed so they are quieter?

Finally has anyone experienced a board with white where a few of the switches didn't click?

You're not pulling a MOZ because of things that were said to you, are you...? <_<

Dude I'm serious. I'm typing on this board with whites and they just feel really light.

And a few of the switches don't click at all.

[tjcaustin]

So are stock white switches lighter than clear switches?

And is the only difference between whites and greens, the fact that whites a factory lubed so they are quieter?

Finally has anyone experienced a board with white where a few of the switches didn't click?

And is there a combo of the weight of clears but slightly clicky like whites?

Step one: Read the OP. It answers the first two of your questions.  Maybe if you weren't just posting because missalaire called you out on it, you'd have time to read these things?
Step two: Seriously, no need to be upset.
Step three: Learn to combine stems/springs

[SpAmRaY]

So are stock white switches lighter than clear switches?

And is the only difference between whites and greens, the fact that whites a factory lubed so they are quieter?

Finally has anyone experienced a board with white where a few of the switches didn't click?

And is there a combo of the weight of clears but slightly clicky like whites?

Step one: Read the OP. It answers the first two of your questions.  Maybe if you weren't just posting because missalaire called you out on it, you'd have time to read these things?
Step two: Seriously, no need to be upset.
Step three: Learn to combine stems/springs

Everyone always says read the OP. I was just asking a serious question and could care less what anyone said. I just got a 'new to me keyboard' and am having issues understanding it's feeling.

go sort some keycaps TJ

[esoomenona]

Definitely upset.

[Photoelectric]

Someone here had to exchange their board with Whites (a KBC Race, I think) because a few switches did not click.

[CPTBadAss]

Hush children.

Really though Ray, check out the OP. It has a lot of info that you could get behind. And yes, I have a few Whites on my Pure that don't click as much as other switches. I think its a quality control issue with the lubrication.

[tjcaustin]

So are stock white switches lighter than clear switches?

And is the only difference between whites and greens, the fact that whites a factory lubed so they are quieter?

Finally has anyone experienced a board with white where a few of the switches didn't click?

And is there a combo of the weight of clears but slightly clicky like whites?

Step one: Read the OP. It answers the first two of your questions.  Maybe if you weren't just posting because missalaire called you out on it, you'd have time to read these things?
Step two: Seriously, no need to be upset.
Step three: Learn to combine stems/springs

Everyone always says read the OP. I was just asking a serious question and could care less what anyone said. I just got a 'new to me keyboard' and am having issues understanding it's feeling.

go sort some keycaps TJ

Cool story, bro.  Go read the OP and be enlightened.

[SpAmRaY]

Definitely upset.

Dang it guys. Am I going to have to post a video of me typing on this keyboard. My jimmie's are not rustled because I don't wear jimmies.

I'm only upset because moose didn't send me a PM back.

Someone here had to exchange their board with Whites (a KBC Race, I think) because a few switches did not click.

sounds like quality control issue then...

Hush children.

Really though Ray, check out the OP. It has a lot of info that you could get behind. And yes, I have a few Whites on my Pure that don't click as much as other switches. I think its a quality control issue with the lubrication.

^^ Captain your help is appreciated. I've got at least 2 or 3 that don't click at all and at least half a dozen that half a much lesser click. And I'll read the OP but my reading comprehension sucks.

[ComradeSniper]

Finally has anyone experienced a board with white where a few of the switches didn't click?

I just posted this on the last page but I think everyone missed it since it was the last post:

I just put whites in my Poker and a few of the switches might as well be MX Reds; there is no click at all. A few others have a very subtle click compared to the others. I switched out the stems in the problem switches to see if it would fix anything and it didn't, so I'm assuming I damaged the switch bottom and the non clickyness isn't the fault of the whites.

[SpAmRaY]

Finally has anyone experienced a board with white where a few of the switches didn't click?

I just posted this on the last page but I think everyone missed it since it was the last post:

I just put whites in my Poker and a few of the switches might as well be MX Reds; there is no click at all. A few others have a very subtle click compared to the others. I switched out the stems in the problem switches to see if it would fix anything and it didn't, so I'm assuming I damaged the switch bottom and the non clickyness isn't the fault of the whites.

Yeah that's basically what I'm experiencing.  Makes me wonder if it's the leaf spring.

[Melvang]

Who designed the Round 1 Al plate for the Phantom?

[SpAmRaY]

Who designed the Round 1 Al plate for the Phantom?

I'm sure there was some combined effort but I know I've seen Litster's name mentioned.

http://geekhack.org/index.php?topic=23572.msg443851.msg#443851

[Melvang]

Who designed the Round 1 Al plate for the Phantom?

I'm sure there was some combined effort but I know I've seen Litster's name mentioned.

http://geekhack.org/index.php?topic=23572.msg443851.msg#443851

Thanks Spam just trying to find the dimensions used in the plate for easy switch mods.

Also what is the standard size for a right shift?  2.75 correct?

[BlueBär]

Also what is the standard size for a right shift?  2.75 correct?

Yes.

[jdcarpe]

Who designed the Round 1 Al plate for the Phantom?

I'm sure there was some combined effort but I know I've seen Litster's name mentioned.

http://geekhack.org/index.php?topic=23572.msg443851.msg#443851

Thanks Spam just trying to find the dimensions used in the plate for easy switch mods.

Also what is the standard size for a right shift?  2.75 correct?

Yes, it was Litster.

And this is a modified design I did to work with 90-degree rotated switches, but you can get the dimensions you need:

[Melvang]

Thanks JD.  I would assume those dimensions are in decimal inches?

[SpAmRaY]

Who designed the Round 1 Al plate for the Phantom?

I'm sure there was some combined effort but I know I've seen Litster's name mentioned.

http://geekhack.org/index.php?topic=23572.msg443851.msg#443851

Thanks Spam just trying to find the dimensions used in the plate for easy switch mods.

Also what is the standard size for a right shift?  2.75 correct?

Yes, it was Litster.

And this is a modified design I did to work with 90-degree rotated switches, but you can get the dimensions you need:

Show Image

^^ I think this info should qualify for the OP.

[CPTBadAss]

Need to confirm if its in inches first. I was in the process of updating the OP.

I have a question: mkawa and I spoke about this but I was hoping some of the staff could help me. Can anyone on the staff (read mods/admins) add in two posts after my OP and give me control of them? The OP is starting to be a little overwhelming and I'd like to reformat how it looks and works.

[Photekq]

Need to confirm if its in inches first. I was in the process of updating the OP.

I have a question: mkawa and I spoke about this but I was hoping some of the staff could help me. Can anyone on the staff (read mods/admins) add in two posts after my OP and give me control of them? The OP is starting to be a little overwhelming and I'd like to reformat how it looks and works.

Yeah, it's inches.

[jdcarpe]

Inches!

[Thimplum]

Inches!

'murica