non-clicky key on new filco blue

[bitt3n]

I've noticed that the j key on my ~2 week old filco blue TKL does not actually click (while the other keys make the normal distinct click of blues). Is there anything to do about this except return it? That would be a pain, since who knows when they'll be in stock again. The key is functional but does not click.

[itlnstln]

Pull the cap, press down the stem a little, and blow it out with and air duster.  Cherry blues are sensitive to dust and other foreign particulates in the switch.

[bitt3n]

cool I just ordered some canned air, will give it a try. If it doesn't work, is the switch easy to remove/replace myself, if I order a single blue off ebay?

[itlnstln]

It'll be easy to replace if you're good at soldering.  If it really is defective, I would send it back; I wouldn't try fixing a new 'board.

That didn't work out so well for a former member here.  In fact, he was blacklisted from Elitekeyboards and several other retailers.

[Lanx]

desolder and use scroll lock-key most common donor key. ebay rip off blues are like 4.99? lol

[itlnstln]

I still wouldn't do that for a new 'board.

[bitt3n]

I've actually got a malfunctioning blackwidow I could cannibalize, but soldering a 2-week old board seems maybe not so smart

[Ekaros]

If it's under warranty try non-intrusive method like cleaning. And then try to get it replaced. If everything else fails get dirty and forfeit the warranty.

[itlnstln]

^ Exactly right.

[Ekaros]

Technically Wellington1869 opened up all the ALPS on his Zero, replaced the sliders with dampened ALPS from a Apple AEKII donor, added click leaves, and THEN complained when Elitekeyboards wouldn't take it back.  He did not take the refusal well and he labelled us both Elitekeyboard fanbois.  In other words it was a bit like ping this summer.

I consider that intrusive, I wouldn't take it back either. It's like you buy a computer, replace parts with 5 year old used ones and then try to return it...

[bitt3n]

If it's under warranty try non-intrusive method like cleaning. And then try to get it replaced. If everything else fails get dirty and forfeit the warranty.

my conundrum is I purchased from amazon US so they will just refund my money since it's not in stock, whereupon I have no keyboard. if I RMA it I expect I'll have to send it to the UK (presumably, since it was sold through amazon by keyboard co UK). I guess I'll pray that canned air fixes it.

[itlnstln]

I would still avoid replacing the switch.  You just spent $150-ish on a new 'board.  If something else were to go wrong that you couldn't fix, you would have no recourse.

[Saturn]

my conundrum is I purchased from amazon US so they will just refund my money since it's not in stock, whereupon I have no keyboard. if I RMA it I expect I'll have to send it to the UK (presumably, since it was sold through amazon by keyboard co UK). I guess I'll pray that canned air fixes it.

if the order was fulfilled by keyboard co, then you might try contacting them directly about the issue.  they have a website outside of amazon where they conduct their own sales and hopefully would be willing to send you a replacement if they have one in stock.

[simon_C]

i had one or two keys on my xarmor that did that, i just rapped on the key a few times fairly hard, popped the keycap off, and put it back on and it worked again.

[Clickey]

In order to desolder a switch you will have to break the warranty seal on the back. So if you go that route, then you gotta go all the way. I dont think Amazon would accept the return after that.

[bitt3n]

Have you tried spamming the key like F5 at 4chan?
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yep and I popped the cap off and put it back on without success.. I'm waiting for the compressed air to arrive and if that doesn't work, I guess I might return it