I'm getting confused by definitions here. But before we get to that, here's what I've done:
1) Removed the big chip that looks like the black and white diagram in the pic that I posted previously.
2) Using that same diagram, I wired pins from the Teensy2.0 to the corresponding pins on the old chip's footprint.
3) Dragged and dropped
Soarer_Controller_v1.20_beta4_atmega32u4.hex into the Teensy gui, and pressed the button on the Teensy2.0.
4) In the terminal, cd'ed into Soarer_Controller_v1.20_beta4\tools\Soarer_sctools_v1.20_beta4_win32, pasted 6112884.sc in the directory, and ran ./scaswr 6112884.sc.
Current status: After reheating my solder points for the wires on the old chip's footprint and plugging back in, I am getting output from the keyboard. I don't understand the layout yet and the bottom "z" row doesn't seem to work, but "a" outputted "a," "s" cranked out "s," etc. Progress!!!
(Did I mention that this is a really nice typing keyboard? I wish it was clicky, but these Alps switches with a short travel distance and thick keycaps ... I'm tempted to buy a couple of these and try to put the switches into a custom Ergodox.)
I have since desoldered the wires going into the old chip's footprint, and will do a better job this time around. And I need to learn the .sc file language, which means studying the docs.
I had initially set out to do this with a Pro-Micro, but I think using a Teensy2.0 is a far better choice, especially for novices like myself. The Teensy gui (familiar to Ergodoxians like myself), the button as opposed to trying to short GND and RST, supporting PJRC's good work, assembled in America ... IMHO, those are worth the $10 extra.
Now regarding definitions ...
What constitutes "flashing?" Is it what I did with the Teensy gui, what I did with the .sc file in the terminal, or both?
What is the difference between a "Soarer's Converter" and a "Soarer's Controller?" Is the difference related to why I had to remove the IC chip?
I'd also still like to know why installing the Teensy2.0 to the red, white, yellow, and black wires pictured here ...
... wouldn't work.