The Living Soldering Thread

[CPTBadAss]

Or an Epsilon 

The hottest new custom around ^__^

[Internetlad]

Forget the dusty old VCR.  Build a GH60!

Isn't the GB closed? If I could get my hands on one I'd consider it. A lot to know about layouts, mapping of switches (unless you do your whole board the same, but where's the fun in that) cases, etc.

[Dubsgalore]

I want to start to solder...laugh at me and all,

but is the WLC100 a good start?

[tjcaustin]

I want to start to solder...laugh at me and all,

but is the WLC100 a good start?

Yes, but you could spend like $30 bucks more and have a hakko instead

[i3oilermaker]

I got 2 from amazon that had beat up boxes and burn marks...sent them both back

Trying the Hakko 888D (on order)

[keymaster]

I want to start to solder...laugh at me and all,

but is the WLC100 a good start?

I just started soldering and I have the WLC 100. I've had an easy time soldering with it. You may want to get an Edsyn Desoldering Pump because it made my desoldering effortless.

[Dubsgalore]

Yes, but you could spend like $30 bucks more and have a hakko instead

I got 2 from amazon that had beat up boxes and burn marks...sent them both back
Trying the Hakko 888D (on order)

Sounds like i should wait until summer, so i will have a job and can pay for the hakko. Thanks for the advice

I just started soldering and I have the WLC 100. I've had an easy time soldering with it. You may want to get an Edsyn Desoldering Pump because it made my desoldering effortless.

shall look into that as well

[i3oilermaker]

Sounds like i should wait until summer, so i will have a job and can pay for the hakko. Thanks for the advice

The Hakko was only like $15 more on amazon than the weller

[i3oilermaker]

Are weller and hakko tips different?

[gnubag]

Are weller and hakko tips different?

yes as far as i know.

[WhiteFireDragon]

This was just asked to me, so I figured I also mention it in this thread since it hasn't been brought up yet: if you want to clean up all the rosin and flux after soldering, you can use kimwipes with isopropyl alcohol.

Kimwipes are really for lab environment, but I use it because they're disposable microfiber tissues to prevent scratching, and also won't leave any lint fibers. For the cleaning solution, 99% isopropyl alcohol works well. Spray on a decent amount, and let it sit for a minute or two to disolve all the flux, then scrub with a brush or Q-tips, and finally finish it off with kimwipes. Alternatively, you can also literally submerge the whole PCB under a bowl (or bucket) of isopropyl alcohol, then take it out and air dry. Try not to use buy the cheapo isopropyl alcohol you find in walmart type stores. Those are weak and diluted.


http://www.amazon.com/Kimtech-Science-KimWipes-Delicate-Wiper/dp/B0013HT2QW
http://www.amazon.com/MG-Chemicals-Isopropyl-Alcohol-Cleaner/dp/B005DNQX3C/ref=pd_sim_indust



https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2Z7nCAxS2Rg#t=28m12s

[metalliqaz]

I need to get myself some 99% isopropyl.  I have 75% from the grocery, but I can only use it very carefully with qtips

[Thechemist]

I need to get myself some 99% isopropyl.  I have 75% from the grocery, but I can only use it very carefully with qtips

Anything 91% and above is great since it has <10% of water ( and dries cleaner ) and the 91% is more accessible than the 99%. You can visit your local drugs store and see if you can score some 99% and if you live in the states you can get one here and save some gas money.

Edit:

I also suggest taking off that rebranded DMM from OP, i wouldn't suggest that meter since it isn't accurate and the quality isn't much better than the $20 DMMs out there. Sure it has some features but it isn't a good entry point DMM.

This meter would be considered a much better suggestion and competes with $100+ DMMs out there.

At ~$56 best bang for your buck is the UNI-T UT61E DMM. Just make sure you clean the leads with alcohol when you receive it.
Some reviews show it overshoots but others don't, it could be fixed on newer revisions?
It is one of the best DC and AC DMM that also has TRUE RMS.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/UNI-T-UT61E-AC-DC-Modern-Digital-Multimeter-gl-/251267628025?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item3a80b7bbf9

It has nice feature that tests smd components and  resistors with ease .

Show Image

Show Image

The test socket that is included can be used when measuring resistors and capacitors, both SMD and leaded components. It can also be used for transistor test, but not on this DMM model. Including this type of test socket is much safer than making extra holes in the meter for test connections.
Note: This socket uses the mAuA terminal, instead of the COM terminal, i.e. it requires that the meter supports this.

Some reviews.

More

[tjcaustin]

That would hold water if not for every review of the meter I have posted, while admitting it's a rebranded MASTECH, saying that it's a fine multimeter with good accuracy, range and durability.

Oh and "it competes well with 100+ DMMs", too.

[Thechemist]

That would hold water if not for every review of the meter I have posted, while admitting it's a rebranded MASTECH, saying that it's a fine multimeter with good accuracy, range and durability.

Oh and "it competes well with 100+ DMMs", too.

Hahahaha, that brought tears to my eyes, I needed that laugh. Thanks.

[Mandolin]

For the ones that speak spanish, rosin is called "pez/P de castilla". Also one could make flux directly out of tree resin with isopropylic alcohol, ideally pine because it is specially acid and a weak acid is needed to dissolve the outer corrosion layer of soldering. If too rusted, use some sandpaper.

[tjcaustin]

That would hold water if not for every review of the meter I have posted, while admitting it's a rebranded MASTECH, saying that it's a fine multimeter with good accuracy, range and durability.

Oh and "it competes well with 100+ DMMs", too.

Hahahaha, that brought tears to my eyes, I needed that laugh. Thanks.

That's cool, don't suggest that DMM again, thanks.

[Thechemist]

I guess this is communist Russia time or better yet China  ) where information is a no-no.

I'll just leave this here for others to read since I assume, I still have that right and maybe next time post some proper reviews. That meter might be good at a $20 price point but not when it is in the price range of the meter i suggested and trust me i have done my research and can back it up.

http://www.eevblog.com/forum/beginners/good-budgetish-multimeter/

[tjcaustin]

Listen, you can be ****ty somewhere else, I don't really care.  But the fact remains that every time you brought up that other DMM, I looked into and compared the two and found nothing tangible for the usage that would justify the price difference.

Call it whatever you want, just call it that somewhere else and stop ****ting in my thread.

[Thechemist]

Listen, you can be ****ty somewhere else, I don't really care.  But the fact remains that every time you brought up that other DMM, I looked into and compared the two and found nothing tangible for the usage that would justify the price difference.

Call it whatever you want, just call it that somewhere else and stop ****ting in my thread.

All I am trying to do is inform my fellow GHackers that there are other options out there with much better precision and actual options that are used in real world, I would expect someone to do the same for me. You may not think it but this thread will influence many readers and i just want them to have their facts straight before they purchase something they might regret later.

[tjcaustin]

See:  Be ****ty elsewhere.

To imply that I don't think this thread will have any influence is borderline insulting as that's exactly why I wrote it.  Just because I didn't fall over myself to add your suggestion, doesn't mean the opposite.

[Glissant]

I think it was more the fact that you laughed at what tjcaustin said, Thechemist. It shows very little respect for what tjcaustin is doing in this thread, and it contributes nothing to the conversation other than to show that you are another person to claim that his own research is the only research.

The DMM that has been suggested is fine. The one you suggested is also fine.
I suggest that we go back to the serious business of the keyboards and solder now.

[Thechemist]

Well, I was giving you the benefit of the doubt that you were intelligent enough to do your homework before you post things here.  You either don't think this thread will influence people, which you already admitted that it does, than the only other thing left is to assume you are ..........

[tjcaustin]

Well, come on then, you had the balls to get that far.  Call me stupid, *******.

I would think the one that is clearly acting like he doesn't know what the phrase "reading comprehension" means shouldn't be talking down about someone else's intelligence.

Especially since it's based off of some rather bold assumptions that I didn't research your suggestion three (3) separate times and made the same judgement call that the additional umph was worth muddling the choices.  I feel like I just said this, too...

So again, go be ****ty elsewhere.

[Thechemist]

I think it was more the fact that you laughed at what tjcaustin said, Thechemist. It shows very little respect for what tjcaustin is doing in this thread, and it contributes nothing to the conversation other than to show that you are another person to claim that his own research is the only research.

The DMM that has been suggested is fine. The one you suggested is also fine.
I suggest that we go back to the serious business of the keyboards and solder now.

I tried to suggest nicely at first that there are better options out there and my suggestions were just dismissed when i was just trying to help others. I also posted thorough reviews from reputable sources as you will see below. Tjcaustin was actually disrespecting me with his language and tone not I.

At ~$56 best bang for your buck is the UNI-T UT61E DMM. Just make sure you clean the leads with alcohol when you receive it.
Some reviews show it overshoots but others don't, it could be fixed on newer revisions?
It is one of the best DC and AC DMM that also has TRUE RMS.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/UNI-T-UT61E-AC-DC-Modern-Digital-Multimeter-gl-/251267628025?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item3a80b7bbf9

It has nice feature that tests smd components and  resistors with ease .

Show Image

Show Image

The test socket that is included can be used when measuring resistors and capacitors, both SMD and leaded components. It can also be used for transistor test, but not on this DMM model. Including this type of test socket is much safer than making extra holes in the meter for test connections.
Note: This socket uses the mAuA terminal, instead of the COM terminal, i.e. it requires that the meter supports this.

Some reviews.

More

That Sinometer is junk a cheap rebrand ( can't calibrate and not very accurate ), I was doing research on which is the best DMM to buy and the one i posted earlier is the best bang for your buck and not that much more than that junky meter.

I need to get myself some 99% isopropyl.  I have 75% from the grocery, but I can only use it very carefully with qtips

Anything 91% and above is great since it has <10% of water ( and dries cleaner ) and the 91% is more accessible than the 99%. You can visit your local drugs store and see if you can score some 99% and if you live in the states you can get one here and save some gas money.

Edit:

I also suggest taking off that rebranded DMM from OP, i wouldn't suggest that meter since it isn't accurate and the quality isn't much better than the $20 DMMs out there. Sure it has some features but it isn't a good entry point DMM.

This meter would be considered a much better suggestion and competes with $100+ DMMs out there.

At ~$56 best bang for your buck is the UNI-T UT61E DMM. Just make sure you clean the leads with alcohol when you receive it.
Some reviews show it overshoots but others don't, it could be fixed on newer revisions?
It is one of the best DC and AC DMM that also has TRUE RMS.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/UNI-T-UT61E-AC-DC-Modern-Digital-Multimeter-gl-/251267628025?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item3a80b7bbf9

It has nice feature that tests smd components and  resistors with ease .

Show Image

Show Image

The test socket that is included can be used when measuring resistors and capacitors, both SMD and leaded components. It can also be used for transistor test, but not on this DMM model. Including this type of test socket is much safer than making extra holes in the meter for test connections.
Note: This socket uses the mAuA terminal, instead of the COM terminal, i.e. it requires that the meter supports this.

Some reviews.

More

I guess this is communist Russia time or better yet China  ) where information is a no-no.

I'll just leave this here for others to read since I assume, I still have that right and maybe next time post some proper reviews. That meter might be good at a $20 price point but not when it is in the price range of the meter i suggested and trust me i have done my research and can back it up.

http://www.eevblog.com/forum/beginners/good-budgetish-multimeter/

[Thechemist]

Well, come on then, you had the balls to get that far.  Call me stupid, *******.

I would think the one that is clearly acting like he doesn't know what the phrase "reading comprehension" means shouldn't be talking down about someone else's intelligence.

Especially since it's based off of some rather bold assumptions that I didn't research your suggestion three (3) separate times and made the same judgement call that the additional umph was worth muddling the choices.  I feel like I just said this, too...

So again, go be ****ty elsewhere.

Please stop, I never called you stupid, you called yourself that. 

[tjcaustin]

Cool story bro.

[metalliqaz]

I have the world's crappiest meter from back in my poor college days and for simple keyboard work it is plenty.  It seriously doesn't matter... The electronics aren't sensitive enough.  If anyone wants a really good one that will be dependable for many years,  get a Fluke and be done with it.

[Internetlad]

So I picked up "Getting started in Electronics" by Forrest M. Mims III over the weekend, already about 50 pages in. It's all pretty basic stuff so far, but it's pretty useful information if you're looking to do work with circuitry and electronics. Others who are looking to get a foothold in the electronics world might do well to start here.

http://www.amazon.com/Getting-Started-Electronics-Forrest-Mims/dp/0945053282/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1368464739&sr=8-1&keywords=getting+started+in+electronics+by+forrest+m.+mims+iii

[Dubsgalore]

I want to start to solder...laugh at me and all,

but is the WLC100 a good start?

Yes, but you could spend like $30 bucks more and have a hakko instead

which hakko should i be looking for?

[i3oilermaker]

which hakko should i be looking for?

888D - mine should come today.

[Dubsgalore]

which hakko should i be looking for?

888D - mine should come today.

the WLC100 is like ~$30
the 888D is like ~$90

am i looking at the wrong 888D?

[SpAmRaY]

which hakko should i be looking for?

888D - mine should come today.

So is there some debate on the digital versus analog and proper temperature control? I was just reading some reviews on both and it seemed like some prefer one over the other but I wasn't sure if that was a personal preference or an actual real world use issue.

[i3oilermaker]

which hakko should i be looking for?

888D - mine should come today.

the WLC100 is like ~$30
the 888D is like ~$90

am i looking at the wrong 888D?

Perhaps TJ was thinking of the Weller WES51 not the 100

[jdcarpe]

I want to start to solder...laugh at me and all,

but is the WLC100 a good start?

Yes, but you could spend like $30 bucks more and have a hakko instead

which hakko should i be looking for?

The current base model Hakko is the FX-888D. The previous model was the analog FX-888. You might also be able to pick up a nice used Hakko 936. The 936 was around for years, and there are plenty of nice used ones around.

Also, the Weller WLC100 is a little basic. It's just above a Radio Shack iron. The WLC100 has no real temperature control, just a dial from 1-5 which controls the wattage to the iron.

[Internetlad]

So is there some debate on the digital versus analog and proper temperature control? I was just reading some reviews on both and it seemed like some prefer one over the other but I wasn't sure if that was a personal preference or an actual real world use issue.

That's what i'm concerned about. It seems like the actual adjustment is the issue, as the 888D only has 2 buttons, making precision temperatures hard to pinpoint. It also (ironically) apparently doesn't show you the actual temperature (like an oven) but rather just the target temp, which would be a huge plus on a digital iron.

At the moment i'm thinking of going with the manual weller, it looks like less of a toy, and it's 'MURICAN

[HoffmanMyster]

So is there some debate on the digital versus analog and proper temperature control? I was just reading some reviews on both and it seemed like some prefer one over the other but I wasn't sure if that was a personal preference or an actual real world use issue.

That's what i'm concerned about. It seems like the actual adjustment is the issue, as the 888D only has 2 buttons, making precision temperatures hard to pinpoint. It also (ironically) apparently doesn't show you the actual temperature (like an oven) but rather just the target temp, which would be a huge plus on a digital iron.

At the moment i'm thinking of going with the manual weller, it looks like less of a toy, and it's 'MURICAN

I had also read somewhere that the 888D doesn't show the actual temperature, but rather the target temp.  Then I watched this review,

t=3m43s and at the time I've linked to it seems to be showing the actual temperature.
Maybe someone who owns one can comment further.

[jdcarpe]

My Hakko FX-888D appears to show the actual temperature, as it shows the temp on the display as the iron is heating up. Also, it will drop a couple degrees if you wipe the tip on a sponge with water.

The digital adjustment is precise, and not hard to set. The adjustment button only goes in one direction, up, so if you miss your target temp, you just have to go back around again.

[Internetlad]

Good to hear it from the horse's mouth.

[remedyhalopc]

What technique do you guys use for freeing bent pins that are soldered on in between the pin and the PCB?

Just hold the tip on the leg until the solder underneath melts?

[tjcaustin]

I use my teeth.

[jdcarpe]

What technique do you guys use for freeing bent pins that are soldered on in between the pin and the PCB?

Just hold the tip on the leg until the solder underneath melts?

after desoldering a WYSE terminal board today, I really want to know why they bent the pins on some of the switch legs. It's annoying.

Ahh, so that's what you meant in the soldering thread.   I couldn't quite get what you were asking. Yeah, just remove the solder from the joint. Then, to remove the switch from the PCB/plate, put the tip of a phillips head screwdriver on the little nub where the switch pokes out of the PCB, and push...hard! It will pop right out of there.

I recently desoldered 12 WYSE terminal boards over a couple days. About half of them were made in Taiwan. On those boards, it looked as if they were soldered by hand, not by machine. Every solder joint had textbook solder fills that covered 100% of the solder pad and were perfectly concave. I have no idea why they bent those pins, though.

[remedyhalopc]

The one I desoldered tonight didn't. It had the gross round solder on the bent pins instead of the concave ones.

I use my teeth.

Dang girl, you naughty.

[dorkvader]

I recently got in an OKI PS900 soldering iron, and it's excellent. You can hot change tips with the base, which is really nice. The "smart heat" makes a lot of sense to me, but I know many are skeptical. I haven't tried the famous Hakko FX888[D] so I can't compare there.

The only thing I can think of about those bent pins on WYSE is that it'd help keep it in place a little better. I still have yet to try desoldering, but the last time I used my edsyn soldapullt, it was a disaster, I couldn't get it to work at all!

[Internetlad]

looking to make an exhaust pipe for my solder work, thinking one of those wire and paper ducts and a 120 mm fan would work fine, eh? Just set it up to pull air and stick it out the window?

You guys figure any hardware store should have that paper ducts? Is it a good idea to use that or is there something else I should consider?

[jdcarpe]

looking to make an exhaust pipe for my solder work, thinking one of those wire and paper ducts and a 120 mm fan would work fine, eh? Just set it up to pull air and stick it out the window?

You guys figure any hardware store should have that paper ducts? Is it a good idea to use that or is there something else I should consider?

You can do that, or you can make an activated carbon filter and stick that on the back of your fan.

[SpAmRaY]

looking to make an exhaust pipe for my solder work, thinking one of those wire and paper ducts and a 120 mm fan would work fine, eh? Just set it up to pull air and stick it out the window?

You guys figure any hardware store should have that paper ducts? Is it a good idea to use that or is there something else I should consider?

I've been thinking about dealing with fumes lately as well here are a few things I've found

thread by mkawa -> http://geekhack.org/index.php?topic=40060.0

http://www.instructables.com/id/DIY-Fume-Extractor/

http://hackaday.com/2008/08/05/how-to-the-hackers-soldering-station/

this is I think is just cool not sure how much good it would really do

http://blog.makezine.com/2008/03/30/diy-fume-extractor-1/

[mkawa]

that reminds me i forgot to post a picture for that thread

[Internetlad]

Is the burger king crown needed for proper operation of the fanbox?

[mkawa]

yes. such a fume extractor only works if it is coronated king of the desk.