Author Topic: [SPRiT] R1 R2 (Shipping 92% Completed)  (Read 1783975 times)

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Offline Puddsy

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those cases look AWESOME
QFR | MJ2 TKL | "Bulgogiboard" (Keycon 104) | ctrl.alt x GON 60% | TGR Alice | Mira SE #29 | Mira SE #34 | Revo One | z | Keycult No. 1 | AIS65 | First CW87 prototype | Mech27v1 | Camp C225 | Duck Orion V1 | LZ CLS sxh | Geon Frog TKL | Hiney TKL One | Geon Glare TKL



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Offline TheMoonUnderWater

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They look great! Are they slimmer around the edges or slimmer in height?  :thumb:

Offline cookiesowns

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Sprit,

Do you have an ETA on my order? If it takes a big longer that's no problem. But I just want to make sure I got my allocations of MX clears, and various other parts, so I don't have to procure other parts once they finally get here

Offline IMHB

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Hey Sprit!

I sent you PMs but you never answered after.....well still the same question...will 87 acrylic case fit my phantom board....? I remember reading the description saying that it would fit...

Offline Pacifist

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Hey Sprit!

I sent you PMs but you never answered after.....well still the same question...will 87 acrylic case fit my phantom board....? I remember reading the description saying that it would fit...

pretty sure it does

Offline sprit

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Sprit,

Do you have an ETA on my order? If it takes a big longer that's no problem. But I just want to make sure I got my allocations of MX clears, and various other parts, so I don't have to procure other parts once they finally get here
Hello!  cookiesowns!   ;)
Sure! I will PM You  now!

Offline hermith

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Just got my 75% PCB today, great shipping speed!

I'm playing around with the placement of the switches now, is it not possible to do: 1.25, 1.25, 1.25, 6.25 in the lower left corner?

Offline swill

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Just got my 75% PCB today, great shipping speed!

I'm playing around with the placement of the switches now, is it not possible to do: 1.25, 1.25, 1.25, 6.25 in the lower left corner?

I have not tried that yet.  You will have to put caps on some switches and then put them in the different holes to see what is possible.  That is how I figured out what holes I should be using for the layout I wanted...  That was with my 60% pcb though, I have not started working on my 75% yet.

Offline bakteria

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Spirit I would also like an ETA on my order please
SS 7G black - Pure red - poker blue (MKC Tray)

Offline hermith

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I have not tried that yet.  You will have to put caps on some switches and then put them in the different holes to see what is possible.  That is how I figured out what holes I should be using for the layout I wanted...  That was with my 60% pcb though, I have not started working on my 75% yet.

From what I can tell it looks like it's made for 1.25, 1, 1.25, or 1.75, 1.75. Darn! I wanted to make this layout as keycap-set friendly as possible. :)

Offline fatchoi

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Sprit,

Do you have an ETA on my order? If it takes a big longer that's no problem. But I just want to make sure I got my allocations of MX clears, and various other parts, so I don't have to procure other parts once they finally get here
Hello!  cookiesowns!   ;)
Sure! I will PM You  now!

Hi Sprit. Can you reply my PM as well please?
Let's sort out the plate issue sooner. ;)

Offline sprit

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Oh!   Sorry !  ;)
I got several PMs  to answer!    I will try answer all till this evening!    :thumb:


Offline sprit

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From what I can tell it looks like it's made for 1.25, 1, 1.25, or 1.75, 1.75. Darn! I wanted to make this layout as keycap-set friendly as possible. :)
Yes!  You are right!   ;) 
As we know, there are some limits on the Bottom Row layouts :  Total  should be 15x,  6x,  6.25x,  7x Spacebars, etc.
75% MX-mini layout has been  1.25x 1x 1.25x 6.25x 1.25x 1x1x (1x1x1)  Winkey,   1.5x 1.5x 7x 1.5x 1.5x (1x1x1) Winkeyless for several years.
 
Another popular 75% layout also needs 1x caps at the bottom  :   1.25x 1.25x 1.25x 6.25x 1.25x1x (1.25x1.25x1.25),  and  three more 1.25x  at R-shift.
http://www.century-direct.net/images/upload/product/N0-07516/race75-k.gif 
« Last Edit: Mon, 23 June 2014, 22:39:31 by sprit »

Offline hermith

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Yes it seems so! But no problems on the 1.25 part, since any of the numpad r1 keys in a normal keycap set can work as windowskey.

I think I've decided to go with this layout for now:

The only "problem" with this is that the left shift is a very unorthodox size (R1 1.75x, caps lock size, but a row down).

Alternatively I could do it like this:

Which has the normal ISO right shift, then the layout would be 100% keycap-set compatible, but I wouldn't get the arrow-key cluster on the right.

Decisions, decisions!
« Last Edit: Tue, 24 June 2014, 22:24:12 by hermith »

Offline bladegesnow

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Does anyone who is in US receive anything? Can't wait Zzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzz
More and more and more...

Offline limitz

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First time building a keyboard. A bit confused right now as I'm overwhelmed with options (don't get me wrong, I love this).

I love that exposed key switch/keycap look in your previous picture, but I'd like to do with a metal case. Is that possible?

Also, can I combine the acrylic plate with the metal case?

Lastly, you say the 5mm acrylic plate is "stronger and quieter", is that in relationship to the aluminum plate?

Love the keyboard, hope to order soon.
« Last Edit: Wed, 25 June 2014, 19:15:10 by limitz »
Mmm... machined aluminum

Offline dorkvader

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Yes it seems so! But no problems on the 1.25 part, since any of the numpad r1 keys in a normal keycap set can work as windowskey.

I think I've decided to go with this layout for now:
Show Image

The only "problem" with this is that the left shift is a very unorthodox size (R1 1.75x, caps lock size, but a row down).

Alternatively I could do it like this:
Show Image

Which has the normal ISO right shift, then the layout would be 100% keycap-set compatible, but I wouldn't get the arrow-key cluster on the right.

Decisions, decisions!
I think you need a tsangan kit, or kbt race compatible keycap set. I think the G80-18** also have that size.

Offline swill

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Sprit, would you mind linking the page where we should be downloading the firmware and the flashing software for loading layouts on your pcbs?

I am guessing it will be somewhere on here, but I am not sure which page I should be looking for: http://www.winkeyless.kr/

Edit: Maybe its this page? http://winkeyless.kr/17
« Last Edit: Thu, 26 June 2014, 21:18:11 by swill »

Offline sprit

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Hello!    Swill!    ;)
Sorry!   I am busy w diodes soldering to ship!
This is Not enough ?    http://geekhack.org/index.php?topic=50580.msg1256970#msg1256970    ;)

Offline swill

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Hello!    Swill!    ;)
Sorry!   I am busy w diodes soldering to ship!
This is Not enough ?    http://geekhack.org/index.php?topic=50580.msg1256970#msg1256970    ;)

That should be good. I will post if I have problems. We should probably put that link in the OP so it is easy to find. Thx... :)

Offline blighty

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I received my 2 75% PCBs and have already managed to break 3 pcb mount stabilizers around the enter key. Thanks!
LZ ergo (MX silent red) | JER - A06 (MX silent black-red springs) | Duck Lightsaver V2 (MX red) | Duck Octagon V2 (gateron clear) (lifted pads) | Duck Orion V2 (gateron red) | TKC 1800 (gateron silent reds) | Mistel MD770 (MX red with GMK silencing clips) | Realforce R2TSLA-US4-IV | Realforce R2TLSA-US4-BK | TX 75 (gateron clear) | KBDFANS 75 ("vintage" MX blues) | Kinesis Freestyle Pro (MX red) | MS Surface Ergonomic | MS Natural Ergonomic Keyboard 4000 | Filco Majestouch 2 TKL (MX black) | Phantom (Filco case) ("vintage" MX blacks | Spr1t 75% PCB x 2 (MX black and gateron clear) | Cherry G80-1865 (MX browns with black springs)

Offline BlueBär

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I received my 2 75% PCBs and have already managed to break 3 pcb mount stabilizers around the enter key. Thanks!

How did you manage that?? I mean sure, PCB mount stabilizers break fairly easy but still, three of them in a row?

Offline blighty

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How did you manage that?? I mean sure, PCB mount stabilizers break fairly easy but still, three of them in a row?
I was overexcited/hamfisted? I try to push it in and the side that holds the wire gives/snaps and goes flying.  Good ole IMSTO stabs.  At least they come with both  6.2x and 7x spacebar wires.  The other stabs went in more or less okay, but the enter is making me waste parts... Think I'll watch a couple episodes of Sidonia No Kishi then try again.

edit:  after a short break, i realized that the stab wire is on the top of the ANSI enter key, instead of the bottom of the switches, like the spacebar and backspace stabs.
« Last Edit: Fri, 27 June 2014, 15:52:40 by blighty »
LZ ergo (MX silent red) | JER - A06 (MX silent black-red springs) | Duck Lightsaver V2 (MX red) | Duck Octagon V2 (gateron clear) (lifted pads) | Duck Orion V2 (gateron red) | TKC 1800 (gateron silent reds) | Mistel MD770 (MX red with GMK silencing clips) | Realforce R2TSLA-US4-IV | Realforce R2TLSA-US4-BK | TX 75 (gateron clear) | KBDFANS 75 ("vintage" MX blues) | Kinesis Freestyle Pro (MX red) | MS Surface Ergonomic | MS Natural Ergonomic Keyboard 4000 | Filco Majestouch 2 TKL (MX black) | Phantom (Filco case) ("vintage" MX blacks | Spr1t 75% PCB x 2 (MX black and gateron clear) | Cherry G80-1865 (MX browns with black springs)

Offline dorkvader

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How did you manage that?? I mean sure, PCB mount stabilizers break fairly easy but still, three of them in a row?
I was overexcited/hamfisted? I try to push it in and the side that holds the wire gives/snaps and goes flying.  Good ole IMSTO stabs.  At least they come with both  6.2x and 7x spacebar wires.  The other stabs went in more or less okay, but the enter is making me waste parts... Think I'll watch a couple episodes of Sidonia No Kishi then try again.

edit:  after a short break, i realized that the stab wire is on the top of the ANSI enter key, instead of the bottom of the switches, like the spacebar and backspace stabs.

yeah, a lot of the korean keyboards (and some cherry I think maybe?) do this. You have to be careful.

Thanks for the heads-up!

Offline swill

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How did you manage that?? I mean sure, PCB mount stabilizers break fairly easy but still, three of them in a row?
I was overexcited/hamfisted? I try to push it in and the side that holds the wire gives/snaps and goes flying.  Good ole IMSTO stabs.  At least they come with both  6.2x and 7x spacebar wires.  The other stabs went in more or less okay, but the enter is making me waste parts... Think I'll watch a couple episodes of Sidonia No Kishi then try again.

edit:  after a short break, i realized that the stab wire is on the top of the ANSI enter key, instead of the bottom of the switches, like the spacebar and backspace stabs.

I was being gentle, but I was very confused as to why my stabs were not fitting when I first tried to put them in.  Luckily I inspected the stab and the holes to realize that one was larger than the other and I was trying to put them in backwards.  Sorry you broke so many learning this.  :(  I consider myself lucky now...

Offline blighty

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I was being gentle, but I was very confused as to why my stabs were not fitting when I first tried to put them in.  Luckily I inspected the stab and the holes to realize that one was larger than the other and I was trying to put them in backwards.  Sorry you broke so many learning this.  :(  I consider myself lucky now...
I have spares and a couple of donor boards, so it's not too bad.  I like object lessons I can walk away from.  Anyone know the stock location for the lock LEDs?
LZ ergo (MX silent red) | JER - A06 (MX silent black-red springs) | Duck Lightsaver V2 (MX red) | Duck Octagon V2 (gateron clear) (lifted pads) | Duck Orion V2 (gateron red) | TKC 1800 (gateron silent reds) | Mistel MD770 (MX red with GMK silencing clips) | Realforce R2TSLA-US4-IV | Realforce R2TLSA-US4-BK | TX 75 (gateron clear) | KBDFANS 75 ("vintage" MX blues) | Kinesis Freestyle Pro (MX red) | MS Surface Ergonomic | MS Natural Ergonomic Keyboard 4000 | Filco Majestouch 2 TKL (MX black) | Phantom (Filco case) ("vintage" MX blacks | Spr1t 75% PCB x 2 (MX black and gateron clear) | Cherry G80-1865 (MX browns with black springs)

Offline IMHB

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hey Sprit!

I sent you the measurements and threads of my phantom PCB and plate through PM, please check for me to see if the case fits! thanks!

Offline cherpalla

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Model 2  Case   -    Candidates  A, B


Too old fashioned ?    Comment it Please,  We can revise it!


-   Slim version of Model 1.   Laser & CNC machined as Model 1
-   Shares Bottom Platform Layer and Structures with Model 1
-   Top 5mm Plate &  2-Layered (8T / 8T) Solid Structure,  21mm Thick   
-   Model 2  :  Keycaps and Switch Tops are exposed.
-   Model 1  is  3-Layered (10T / 10T /8T)   28mm Thick
 
-   Candidate A  : Middle layer is Not Fat.   
-   Candidate B  : Middle layer is slightly Fat.

-   60%  Model 2 Case  supports   :  Face 60%  (* limited supports for bolting holes : GH60, Poker I, and most 60% PCBs)
-   75%  Model 2 Case  supports   :  MX-mini U, W  (all the current versions)
-   87%  Model 2 Case  supports   :  most  A.87 Compatible PCBs
-  110% Model 2 Case  supports   :  110% A.87 Ext. PCBs


(Attachment Link)   75%  (Attachment Link)     (Attachment Link)   (Attachment Link)     (Attachment Link)   87%    (Attachment Link)   (Attachment Link)   60%  (Attachment Link)   (Attachment Link)   (Attachment Link) (Attachment Link)   110%

Will this work for my Ducky Shine 3 TKL then?
c h e r

Offline swill

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Typing on my sprit 60% right now.  I have to say I am pretty pleased with it.  I did a bit of a strange switch/spring combo on this board because I wanted to try something different.  I used mx browns with a 68g spring.  The best way I can describe it is pretty much right between a brown and a black.  When I type quickly I don't notice the bump at all, but there is something about how the key falls away a bit after the bump that makes my hands still feel that its there.  The spring is not quite as heavy as a black, but it is definitely heavier than standard brown springs.  It almost feels linear, but there is something about it that feels more comfortable than linear to me.  I had a hard time with linear switches because I never really knew how far to press the switch.

I will use this as my daily driver for a while and see how it plays out.  I am still getting used to using the HHKB arrow keys with this Pure layout.  We will see how quickly I get the hang of it when I am coding cause that is where this layout will make or break for me.

My 75% will probably be with mx clear switches and 65g springs.  I think that is going to be pretty nice as well.  We will see...

Offline fatchoi

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Oh!   Sorry !  ;)
I got several PMs  to answer!    I will try answer all till this evening!    :thumb:

Hello Sprit, how's the packing progress please? If the shipping delays because of the resistors soldering, maybe I could do the soldering myself. ;D

Standard surface mount resistors right? I assume I could do it as I'm able to solder SMD diodes for Ergodox. Recently learnt how to do.
« Last Edit: Tue, 01 July 2014, 07:33:54 by fatchoi »

Offline Vibex

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Just a quick question about the firmware. How many function layers can it support?

Offline bakteria

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Answer my pm please
SS 7G black - Pure red - poker blue (MKC Tray)

Offline tjweir

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Answer my pm please

Sprit is super busy, give him some time.

Offline John Venture

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Hi Sprit, do you have any estimations of shipping dates for R1? (I ordered a 75%)

Offline bakteria

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Answer my pm please

Sprit is super busy, give him some time.

I know but it's been so many months.. And he seems to be answering some people's pms at least.
If only he made a google doc with shipping status he would save so much time and don't have to waste time on shipping status pms.
I know he will come through but the lack of info still bothers me.

Maybe some of you could answer if the 4mm plate was delayed?
SS 7G black - Pure red - poker blue (MKC Tray)

Offline Zeal

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Yes, the 4mm aluminum plates have been slightly delayed since some colours had a hard time meeting MOQ in round 1. So he's seeing if round 2 could help with MOQ on aluminum plates.
        "Bird have wing, bird will fly. Henry had wings.  Henry now fly." -Sent

Offline bakteria

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I would not call the delay slight. Anyway, I haven't received any information about this nor have I been given the choice to change plate.
SS 7G black - Pure red - poker blue (MKC Tray)

Offline Zentaaa

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How much would shipping to the uk be on a arcylic plate and a pcb?

Offline swill

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I would not call the delay slight. Anyway, I haven't received any information about this nor have I been given the choice to change plate.

The delays are pretty minor. If you were in the GH60 GB you would know what REAL delays are.

This is the first time sprit has done this and there are a lot of moving parts he has to account for. He is doing a great job, but it is taking a little longer than he had hoped.

Patience is the word of the hour. :)

Offline dorkvader

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Patience is the word of the hour. :)
Patience is the word of the year.

I like to think of it as the number one rule in keyboards.

I don't mind the wait at all: it'll be worth it, I know.

Offline Cottonsox

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I have started my build, and thought i would give a heads up to anyone wishing to do SIP Socket mod to switches and planning on getting the acrylic plate. There does notseem to be enough clearance from the SIP socket pins to solder to the PCB.

Not sure if there are alternative SIP Sockets that may fit, but the one i have, and seem pretty standard are not long enough. I am most likely going to be looking for a thinner alu plate in its place.

Offline swill

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I have started my build, and thought i would give a heads up to anyone wishing to do SIP Socket mod to switches and planning on getting the acrylic plate. There does notseem to be enough clearance from the SIP socket pins to solder to the PCB.

Not sure if there are alternative SIP Sockets that may fit, but the one i have, and seem pretty standard are not long enough. I am most likely going to be looking for a thinner alu plate in its place.

They worked fine for me.  The end of the legs on the sip sockets were basically flush with the bottom of the PCB before I soldered them on.  I was able to touch both the leg of the sip socket and the trace on the PCB without any issue.  It soldered up pretty nicely...

I don't have a good picture of it (other than just the final pictures of the case where you can see what it looks like), but here is my build log...

It may be worth noting that I also removed the entire housing of my sip sockets before installing them in the switch.  Not sure if that will make a difference, but I suspect it might...

Edit: This is the best picture I have of it soldered up.

69824-0
« Last Edit: Thu, 03 July 2014, 22:07:42 by swill »

Offline Cottonsox

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I have started my build, and thought i would give a heads up to anyone wishing to do SIP Socket mod to switches and planning on getting the acrylic plate. There does notseem to be enough clearance from the SIP socket pins to solder to the PCB.

Not sure if there are alternative SIP Sockets that may fit, but the one i have, and seem pretty standard are not long enough. I am most likely going to be looking for a thinner alu plate in its place.

They worked fine for me.  The end of the legs on the sip sockets were basically flush with the bottom of the PCB before I soldered them on.  I was able to touch both the leg of the sip socket and the trace on the PCB without any issue.  It soldered up pretty nicely...

I don't have a good picture of it (other than just the final pictures of the case where you can see what it looks like), but here is my build log...

It may be worth noting that I also removed the entire housing of my sip sockets before installing them in the switch.  Not sure if that will make a difference, but I suspect it might...

I nearly pm'd you asking. Was not sure what plate  you used for you build.

That is good to know, I will give it a go. I have removed the housing aswell. I have only eyeballed it at this point.

Offline swill

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I have started my build, and thought i would give a heads up to anyone wishing to do SIP Socket mod to switches and planning on getting the acrylic plate. There does notseem to be enough clearance from the SIP socket pins to solder to the PCB.

Not sure if there are alternative SIP Sockets that may fit, but the one i have, and seem pretty standard are not long enough. I am most likely going to be looking for a thinner alu plate in its place.

They worked fine for me.  The end of the legs on the sip sockets were basically flush with the bottom of the PCB before I soldered them on.  I was able to touch both the leg of the sip socket and the trace on the PCB without any issue.  It soldered up pretty nicely...

I don't have a good picture of it (other than just the final pictures of the case where you can see what it looks like), but here is my build log...

It may be worth noting that I also removed the entire housing of my sip sockets before installing them in the switch.  Not sure if that will make a difference, but I suspect it might...

I nearly pm'd you asking. Was not sure what plate  you used for you build.

That is good to know, I will give it a go. I have removed the housing aswell. I have only eyeballed it at this point.

If you have questions while you build, feel free to PM me or post here and I can share with all.  It is bloody close, but it works fine.  :)

Offline feizor

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Is there any indication of when round 2 will be shipping? I'm just after PCB and some springs.

Offline swill

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Is there any indication of when round 2 will be shipping? I'm just after PCB and some springs.

We should ask sprit to post how close he is to moq. I know he is focusing on getting round one soldered up and shipped right now.

He needs a higher moq for round two I think so the factory pre solders everything for him.

I suspect round two is still a ways off from shipping.

Offline JPG

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Hi Sprit, I know you are quite busy but I would like to get an update on my order since you sent me a pm more than a month ago telling me it was going to be shipped and I still received nothing and would like to know if it has been shipped or not to know if I should get worried about the post or not.


Thx.
IBM F122, IBM XT F X2, IBM AT F (all Soarer converted), Filco Camo TKL Browns

Offline Lubed Up Slug

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Is there any indication of when round 2 will be shipping? I'm just after PCB and some springs.

We should ask sprit to post how close he is to moq. I know he is focusing on getting round one soldered up and shipped right now.

He needs a higher moq for round two I think so the factory pre solders everything for him.

I suspect round two is still a ways off from shipping.

Perhaps to meet the MOQ for the round 2 PCBs he should offer only one color.  Personally I don't care too much about the color of the PCB because ideally it won't be exposed in the final product.

Offline swill

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Is there any indication of when round 2 will be shipping? I'm just after PCB and some springs.

We should ask sprit to post how close he is to moq. I know he is focusing on getting round one soldered up and shipped right now.

He needs a higher moq for round two I think so the factory pre solders everything for him.

I suspect round two is still a ways off from shipping.

Perhaps to meet the MOQ for the round 2 PCBs he should offer only one color.  Personally I don't care too much about the color of the PCB because ideally it won't be exposed in the final product.

That is a good suggestion actually. I don't think very many people care too much about the pcb color, especially if it reduces turn around time.

Offline hermith

  • Posts: 45
  • Location: Norway
Typing on my Sprit 75% now with MX Clears. Feels very good! I think MX Clears are more my style because I bottom out like a bastard on blues/browns but clears feel just right. Probably reduced my typing noise by a factor of 10. :)

You can see my build here.