[IC] SkiDatum 60% Aluminum Case

[njbair]

This is an interest check for a custom-made 60% keyboard case inspired by the SkiData keyboard.

Preliminary renders:


Unique design features include:

• CNC-milled unibody aluminum construction.
• Extra-wide bezel.
• Extra-deep pocket to hide switches, stabs, and other keyboard internals. This is not a low-profile case.
• 7° incline.
• One-of-a-kind, SkiData-inspired, curved-slope front bezel.

Still TBD:

• Cost. I'm guessing somewhere in the $150 range, but that's a very preliminary figure.
• Finish. My first inclination is blue anodize to match the original SkiData keyboard, but if there's enough interest in multiple colors I will look into the price difference.
• Lead time.

About me (njbair)

I've been a GeekHack member since February 2015. I've never run a group buy before but I've been actively involved in several buys and I believe I have what it takes to lead the IC & buying process objectively and see the project through to the end in a timely fashion with minimal drama.

I've got 8 years of CNC manufacturing experience, mostly moldmaking and tool & die work. Tool & die shops are not known for finish-quality work so I will be looking at vendors who can guarantee clean parts with no scratches or dents.

I've been able to apply my manufacturing experience in the design of this case to make sure that every feature is designed for easy machinibility. This should help mitigate costs quite a bit, as this board can be produced as-designed on a 3-axis mill in as few as two or three setups, with the appropriate fixturing.


How can you help?

• I would love to produce some high-quality renders based on my 3D part designs. Anyone who is good with Blender or similar rendering software, please reach out to me.
• I need feedback! Let me know what you think of this project so far, or ideas about what you would change about it.

[sethk_]

Count me interested

[HoffmanMyster]

Datum

* HoffmanMyster has nightmarish flashbacks to Unit Ops lab when he lost significant points for using 'data' to refer to a singular piece of datum

*shivers*


Okay, I could probably get behind this. Seems like a cool design. Not sure of my financials by the time this will roll around, but I'm intrigued.   

[Karura]

Wow this is awesome!

Perfect timing, would go great with the SKIDATA+ set

I can't help but wonder, with such a large bezel on a 60%, would it be very lopsided and clumsy to carry around? Would be nice to keep on the desk and never move.

[sethk_]

Wow this is awesome!

Perfect timing, would go great with the SKIDATA+ set

I can't help but wonder, such a large bezel on a 60%, would it very lopsided and clumsy to carry around? Would be nice to keep on the desk and never move.

Thats what I am thinking of as well. This for me would be more like a collection piece instead of travel board.

Also, is there a way I could request a non-anodized version? I think it would be cool to try out anodizing at home on this.

[njbair]

Wow this is awesome!

Perfect timing, would go great with the SKIDATA+ set

I can't help but wonder, with such a large bezel on a 60%, would it be very lopsided and clumsy to carry around? Would be nice to keep on the desk and never move.

I'd be lying if I said your GB didn't help motivate me to put some work into this idea.

Indeed, this isn't intended to be portable. It's going to be heavy, the pointy corners might bend easily during transport, and they would probably poke holes in your backpack.

Wow this is awesome!

Perfect timing, would go great with the SKIDATA+ set

I can't help but wonder, such a large bezel on a 60%, would it very lopsided and clumsy to carry around? Would be nice to keep on the desk and never move.

Thats what I am thinking of as well. This for me would be more like a collection piece instead of travel board.

Also, is there a way I could request a non-anodized version? I think it would be cool to try out anodizing at home on this.

Depends. It sounds like an easy thing but anodizing doesn't just add color...it also protects the piece. The bead-blasted finish that is applied before anodize, is very easy to mar. If the shop is willing to ship it unfinished, and if you're willing to take that risk, it may be a possibility. Or if you can get access to a bead-blasting cabinet local to you, you can potentially remove any scuffs yourself.

[sethk_]

Wow this is awesome!

Perfect timing, would go great with the SKIDATA+ set

I can't help but wonder, with such a large bezel on a 60%, would it be very lopsided and clumsy to carry around? Would be nice to keep on the desk and never move.

I'd be lying if I said your GB didn't help motivate me to put some work into this idea.

Indeed, this isn't intended to be portable. It's going to be heavy, the pointy corners might bend easily during transport, and they would probably poke holes in your backpack.

Wow this is awesome!

Perfect timing, would go great with the SKIDATA+ set

I can't help but wonder, such a large bezel on a 60%, would it very lopsided and clumsy to carry around? Would be nice to keep on the desk and never move.

Thats what I am thinking of as well. This for me would be more like a collection piece instead of travel board.

Also, is there a way I could request a non-anodized version? I think it would be cool to try out anodizing at home on this.

Depends. It sounds like an easy thing but anodizing doesn't just add color...it also protects the piece. The bead-blasted finish that is applied before anodize, is very easy to mar. If the shop is willing to ship it unfinished, and if you're willing to take that risk, it may be a possibility. Or if you can get access to a bead-blasting cabinet local to you, you can potentially remove any scuffs yourself.

Ah, is there a possibility I could have it bead blasted but not anodized? If not I understand.

[Karura]

I'm thinking of the anodizing colours.

Would it be easy enough to anodize it into a nice light blue?

The original Skidata case (I have one) is actually quite dark blue, and I feel a tiny bit lighter, but not sky-blue would be good.

Something along the lines of GMK colour code N5.

For reference:

[sethk_]

I'm thinking of the anodizing colours.

Would it be easy enough to anodize it into a nice light blue?

The original Skidata case (I have one) is actually quite dark blue, and I feel a tiny bit lighter, but not sky-blue would be good.

Something along the lines of GMK colour code N5.

For reference:

Show Image

Yeah. Places can do custom colors. Here is a website that has anodizing dyes: http://www.caswellplating.com/anodizing-products/anodizing-dyes.html

[njbair]

Wow this is awesome!

Perfect timing, would go great with the SKIDATA+ set

I can't help but wonder, with such a large bezel on a 60%, would it be very lopsided and clumsy to carry around? Would be nice to keep on the desk and never move.

I'd be lying if I said your GB didn't help motivate me to put some work into this idea.

Indeed, this isn't intended to be portable. It's going to be heavy, the pointy corners might bend easily during transport, and they would probably poke holes in your backpack.

Wow this is awesome!

Perfect timing, would go great with the SKIDATA+ set

I can't help but wonder, such a large bezel on a 60%, would it very lopsided and clumsy to carry around? Would be nice to keep on the desk and never move.

Thats what I am thinking of as well. This for me would be more like a collection piece instead of travel board.

Also, is there a way I could request a non-anodized version? I think it would be cool to try out anodizing at home on this.

Depends. It sounds like an easy thing but anodizing doesn't just add color...it also protects the piece. The bead-blasted finish that is applied before anodize, is very easy to mar. If the shop is willing to ship it unfinished, and if you're willing to take that risk, it may be a possibility. Or if you can get access to a bead-blasting cabinet local to you, you can potentially remove any scuffs yourself.

Ah, is there a possibility I could have it bead blasted but not anodized? If not I understand.

Probably. But my point is an un-anodized bead-blasted part may get scuffed very easily. So the big question mark is how to ship it safely.

When I begin gathering quotes, I'll ask about this. I believe anodizing is done in three steps: initial coating, coloring, and a final coating to seal the color in. Maybe it's possible to do that first coating just to protect the bead blasting. Then you can dye and finish it yourself.

I'm thinking of the anodizing colours.

Would it be easy enough to anodize it into a nice light blue?

The original Skidata case (I have one) is actually quite dark blue, and I feel a tiny bit lighter, but not sky-blue would be good.

Something along the lines of GMK colour code N5.

For reference:

Show Image

Color options for anodize are pretty wide open. The missing puzzle piece right now is cost. Both are probably vendor-specific.

I'm going to see how this IC goes before investing too much more time in the search for vendors. This may not make sense unless I can get a quantity of 10 or more.

[sethk_]

Wow this is awesome!

Perfect timing, would go great with the SKIDATA+ set

I can't help but wonder, with such a large bezel on a 60%, would it be very lopsided and clumsy to carry around? Would be nice to keep on the desk and never move.

I'd be lying if I said your GB didn't help motivate me to put some work into this idea.

Indeed, this isn't intended to be portable. It's going to be heavy, the pointy corners might bend easily during transport, and they would probably poke holes in your backpack.

Wow this is awesome!

Perfect timing, would go great with the SKIDATA+ set

I can't help but wonder, such a large bezel on a 60%, would it very lopsided and clumsy to carry around? Would be nice to keep on the desk and never move.

Thats what I am thinking of as well. This for me would be more like a collection piece instead of travel board.

Also, is there a way I could request a non-anodized version? I think it would be cool to try out anodizing at home on this.

Depends. It sounds like an easy thing but anodizing doesn't just add color...it also protects the piece. The bead-blasted finish that is applied before anodize, is very easy to mar. If the shop is willing to ship it unfinished, and if you're willing to take that risk, it may be a possibility. Or if you can get access to a bead-blasting cabinet local to you, you can potentially remove any scuffs yourself.

Ah, is there a possibility I could have it bead blasted but not anodized? If not I understand.

Probably. But my point is an un-anodized bead-blasted part may get scuffed very easily. So the big question mark is how to ship it safely.

When I begin gathering quotes, I'll ask about this. I believe anodizing is done in three steps: initial coating, coloring, and a final coating to seal the color in. Maybe it's possible to do that first coating just to protect the bead blasting. Then you can dye and finish it yourself.

I'm thinking of the anodizing colours.

Would it be easy enough to anodize it into a nice light blue?

The original Skidata case (I have one) is actually quite dark blue, and I feel a tiny bit lighter, but not sky-blue would be good.

Something along the lines of GMK colour code N5.

For reference:

Show Image

Color options for anodize are pretty wide open. The missing puzzle piece right now is cost. Both are probably vendor-specific.

I'm going to see how this IC goes before investing too much more time in the search for vendors. This may not make sense unless I can get a quantity of 10 or more.

Yeah. If it has a coating already, it goes in battery acid to strip it. Then you heat it up in boiling water, then pour the dye in after a certain amount of time that deals with how much aluminum there is. Then you boil water and drop the anodized piece in where the boiled water seals the pores.

[jdcarpe]

Yeah, I would definitely buy one of these if it matched the Skidata blue.

So much for me not buying more keyboard stuff...

[sethk_]

Yeah, I would definitely buy one of these if it matched the Skidata blue.

So much for me not buying more keyboard stuff...

at least this is on the more affordable side of aluminum cases

[njbair]

Yeah, I would definitely buy one of these if it matched the Skidata blue.

So much for me not buying more keyboard stuff...

How do you think HBG would look in this, in SkiData blue?

[heedpantsnow]

I would be interested, depending on price. Kindof the antithesis to my carbon fiber case....trying to be as non-portable and solid as possible (for a 60)?

[heedpantsnow]

Design-wise, I've always felt that the cases with internal ridges feel more solid than the ones with just standoffs. I might be the only one who thinks that though.

[njbair]

Design-wise, I've always felt that the cases with internal ridges feel more solid than the ones with just standoffs. I might be the only one who thinks that though.

You're right, the ridges brace the bottom of the pocket, adding strength and reducing ping. This case is on an incline--its thickness grades from 17mm at the back to 3mm at the front. Low profile cases are somewhere around 2-3mm thick all around. So there's a lot of extra material to keep the bottom rigid. This is why I decided to cut costs by leaving the ridges out.

[azhdar]

I'll most likely won't take part of this but I'll throw and idea:
HHKB & Winkeyless Bottom blockers.

[VinnyCordeiro]

If this case support an standard Poker PCB, then I'm interested.

[njbair]

I'll most likely won't take part of this but I'll throw and idea:
HHKB & Winkeyless Bottom blockers.

Do you mean detachable, or built-in as an option?

If this case support an standard Poker PCB, then I'm interested.

I'm using the same hole pattern as most 60% cases. I believe the only mainstream board that won't fit is the Pure, but there may be others I don't know about. At any rate, I'm 99% sure the Poker uses this standard hole pattern.

For reference:

[stoic-lemon]

This is a really unique/cute/cool looking case. Good luck with this. Depending on price of course, I'm very interested. This plus the proposed Skidata set are sure to be good for eachother; and bad for wallets everywhere.

[azhdar]

I'll most likely won't take part of this but I'll throw and idea:
HHKB & Winkeyless Bottom blockers.

Do you mean detachable, or built-in as an option?

Both works, detachable as the advatange of doing only addon items. Built-in look slicker.

[njbair]

I'll most likely won't take part of this but I'll throw and idea:
HHKB & Winkeyless Bottom blockers.

Do you mean detachable, or built-in as an option?

Both works, detachable as the advatange of doing only addon items. Built-in look slicker.

Any examples of custom boards with detachable blockers? I'd like to get a look at that.

[jdcarpe]

I'll most likely won't take part of this but I'll throw and idea:
HHKB & Winkeyless Bottom blockers.

Do you mean detachable, or built-in as an option?

Both works, detachable as the advatange of doing only addon items. Built-in look slicker.

Any examples of custom boards with detachable blockers? I'd like to get a look at that.

Look at the KMAC 2.

[Karura]

Here is a perfect example of blockers. Please include 1.5u ones.

[njbair]

So here's the problem with built-in blockers. This is a one-piece case and the PCB/plate assembly drops in from the top. The pocket is also cut from the top side, so there's no good way to cut out a ledge of material like that and remove the stock underneath where the PCB is supposed to go. Even if you could, there would be no way to drop the PCB in from the top without those blockers getting in the way.

The only way I can think to add built-in blockers would be to make this a 2-piece case. This would probably make it cost more. This is what I have in mind:



This drawing doesn't include the bottom plate that would drop into that pocket, but I think you can get the idea. The bottom plate would have all the standoffs and mounting holes for the PCB/plate, and it would screw into the case body from underneath, using the screw holes shown on the drawing.

The drawing also doesn't include any blockers, but those would be built-in when the pocket is cut. If the case doesn't have blockers, there's no reason to make it in two pieces like this. So let me know yay or nay for the blockers. If it seems like a popular request I'll look into the cost of doing it both ways when I begin fielding quotes.

[sethk_]

Just wondering, what program do you use?

[njbair]

Just wondering, what program do you use?

FreeCAD. There's a small learning curve but it's free and good for quick prototypes.

[HoffmanMyster]

Here is a perfect example of blockers. Please include 1.5u ones.

Show Image

Lightsaver as well.  :thumb:

[JaccoW]

Skidata's case was great I not a bit big. Cool idea.

[danielucf]

Hmmmm I thought I was done with 60% cases but this I may be down for. Not sure if the Skidata blue case or black would be best for me personally. I'd like it to match Skidata, but at the same time I may want to put some other keyset on there that would have to match the blue. If it is around $150 consider me very likely to buy, bonus points if you figure out how to do blockers in 1x and 1.5x sizes.

[Karura]

I'll just leave this here...

[njbair]

I'll just leave this here...

Show Image

You sir, just blew my mind.

[KHAANNN]

I'm very interested, very very interested

My only concern would be the comfort, since I haven't touched a Skidata keyboard, but from the way I type, that slope seems near-optimal

~$150: Definite join
$200: Most probably join
$300: Hmm
$500: No-no

So it would boil down to the cost

[romevi]

Didn't know this thread existed.

Interested.

[njbair]

I haven't really done much with this project in a while because my CNC contact sort of fell through. I'm honestly not sure where to start as far as finding another shop to do this, but I would still like to see it happen. I am pretty sure, though, that since my contact won't be able to do this, that it's not getting done for $150 or less.

Has anyone been keeping up with the Cerakote discussions that have been taking place here on GH? I'm thinking that might be a good choice for finishing here. Thoughts?

[KHAANNN]

I haven't really done much with this project in a while because my CNC contact sort of fell through. I'm honestly not sure where to start as far as finding another shop to do this, but I would still like to see it happen. I am pretty sure, though, that since my contact won't be able to do this, that it's not getting done for $150 or less.

Has anyone been keeping up with the Cerakote discussions that have been taking place here on GH? I'm thinking that might be a good choice for finishing here. Thoughts?

The material really peaked my interest for plate coating

For case coating, regular anodising works wonders tho, the texture/coating of the tex 60% case's are perfect, they strangely reduce hand sweating too (probably due to the coldness of the aluminium)

It would be great to experience Cerakote too

http://www.cerakoteguncoatings.com/finishes/ 4 blues

[njbair]

Looks like the blue from the original SkiData case is closest to Sky Blue or NRA Blue.

[Karura]

I have the original case. I'd say those two colours would work, but it's really not that vibrant or imaginative.

I would much prefer a nice anodized finish.

Also, would it be possible to have it made to accept the viper PCB?
https://geekhack.org/index.php?topic=74953.new#new

Leeku makes some of the best PCB designs ever, and it would be an honour to have a "HHKB" style case with his PCB in it. Duck has also provided the plate files for that group buy, so we would have a perfect custom keyboard. This is the best idea I can come up with.

[njbair]

I have the original case. I'd say those two colours would work, but it's really not that vibrant or imaginative.

I would much prefer a nice anodized finish.

Also, would it be possible to have it made to accept the viper PCB?
https://geekhack.org/index.php?topic=74953.new#new

Leeku makes some of the best PCB designs ever, and it would be an honour to have a "HHKB" style case with his PCB in it. Duck has also provided the plate files for that group buy, so we would have a perfect custom keyboard. This is the best idea I can come up with.

Are you talking about a PCB that actually has the corners cut out? I think that would work. All it would basically mean is a minor change in the program, and it might actually be cheaper than the full pocket because less material has to be removed.

However, I can't find a way to make the current design work with a full PCB with blockers, without severely over-complicating the design.

[Karura]

I have the original case. I'd say those two colours would work, but it's really not that vibrant or imaginative.

I would much prefer a nice anodized finish.

Also, would it be possible to have it made to accept the viper PCB?
https://geekhack.org/index.php?topic=74953.new#new

Leeku makes some of the best PCB designs ever, and it would be an honour to have a "HHKB" style case with his PCB in it. Duck has also provided the plate files for that group buy, so we would have a perfect custom keyboard. This is the best idea I can come up with.

Are you talking about a PCB that actually has the corners cut out? I think that would work. All it would basically mean is a minor change in the program, and it might actually be cheaper than the full pocket because less material has to be removed.

However, I can't find a way to make the current design work with a full PCB with blockers, without severely over-complicating the design.

What I'm suggesting is two cases, one with cutouts, one without cutouts. No blockers.

The PCB has its corners cut, yep, and a plate already designed for it.

The end product would be a kit that comprises of: njbair SkiDatum case, Leeku HHKB PCB, Duck Viper plate.

Also you'd have to follow the group buy or try to get your hands on a viper. From what I'm aware, the design is not standard 60%, it might have a few different screw holes. I'll leave you to figure that out

[njbair]

I have the original case. I'd say those two colours would work, but it's really not that vibrant or imaginative.

I would much prefer a nice anodized finish.

Also, would it be possible to have it made to accept the viper PCB?
https://geekhack.org/index.php?topic=74953.new#new

Leeku makes some of the best PCB designs ever, and it would be an honour to have a "HHKB" style case with his PCB in it. Duck has also provided the plate files for that group buy, so we would have a perfect custom keyboard. This is the best idea I can come up with.

Are you talking about a PCB that actually has the corners cut out? I think that would work. All it would basically mean is a minor change in the program, and it might actually be cheaper than the full pocket because less material has to be removed.

However, I can't find a way to make the current design work with a full PCB with blockers, without severely over-complicating the design.

What I'm suggesting is two cases, one with cutouts, one without cutouts. No blockers.

The PCB has its corners cut, yep, and a plate already designed for it.

The end product would be a kit that comprises of: njbair SkiDatum case, Leeku HHKB PCB, Duck Viper plate.

Also you'd have to follow the group buy or try to get your hands on a viper. From what I'm aware, the design is not standard 60%, it might have a few different screw holes. I'll leave you to figure that out

I like your idea. Just know that this project is a long way off from becoming a GB...I have to source material, choose a manufacturer and finisher, figure out how to safely ship a heavy, pointy block of aluminum, and determine all the costs associated with all that stuff. So I'm sure the Viper buy will be long gone by the time this becomes a GB. If there is sufficient interest in a HHKB variant at that point, I am definitely open to that option.

[StormyMonday]

It would probably be best to source blockers that could attach to the switch mounting plate, as with the KMAC.

I would humbly suggest that GH60, Poker, Eagle, Viper, etc. support could be easily achieved, if you base your design on the motherboard tray of a computer case. The trays have several groups of threaded holes for different size motherboards and upon assembly, the stand--offs are installed in the appropriate locations. It would seem that approach could easily be adapted for this project, in order to support all of the currently popular PCBs.