Stepped = 4.763mm to the left.Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/AlI9qqI.png)
Sorry if the diagram is not clear enough. Those two squares represent the position of the switch mounting holes for center and stepped caps lock.Stepped = 4.763mm to the left.Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/AlI9qqI.png)
This is for the step if I'n not wrong.
I'm interested in the position of the mounting stem for a off-center stepped caplocks.
I have been just making up my own DWG files based on my own measurements. I wish i'd seen these earlier but good stuff! I am trying to figure out exactly how the plate cutouts relate to the caps themselves. Any help?
MOZ, great idea to collect all this stuff. :thumb:
I have been just making up my own DWG files based on my own measurements. I wish i'd seen these earlier but good stuff! I am trying to figure out exactly how the plate cutouts relate to the caps themselves. Any help?
Just created this thread today.
I don't quite get your question. If you look at the plate components file, you'll see that the cutout for 1u, 1.25u, 1.5u, 1.75u are the same, it is just the positions, thus in the dwg file, I have enclosed the cutout shape in shapes based on key size. I think this is what you wanted to know?
I have been just making up my own DWG files based on my own measurements. I wish i'd seen these earlier but good stuff! I am trying to figure out exactly how the plate cutouts relate to the caps themselves. Any help?
Just created this thread today.
I don't quite get your question. If you look at the plate components file, you'll see that the cutout for 1u, 1.25u, 1.5u, 1.75u are the same, it is just the positions, thus in the dwg file, I have enclosed the cutout shape in shapes based on key size. I think this is what you wanted to know?
Sorry, i can see how ambiguous it was now. What i meant was the position of the cutouts in relation to the caps above them. I am asking because i am designing a couple of housings and would like to know accurately where to fit the plate to the housing such that the outer edge of the outer keys are flush with the inner edge of the tray.
Btw i just noticed that in the main list these are both pointed to the same link:Fixed
MOZ's ErgoDox A4 sheet
GeekHack ISO sheet
Shinier MX datasheet: http://www.cherrycorp.com/english/switches/pdf/mx_cat.pdfFirst one is incomplete thus I hadn't added it. The second one looks good, I'll add it.
Cherry MX datasheet with Imperial measurements: http://media.digikey.com/pdf/Data%20Sheets/Cherry%20PDFs/MX%20Series.pdf
Hey! It's a sticky! And at the top!
By the way, thanks for the basic keyboard layouts. I'm working on... something, and I found it very useful.
any software other to open dwg files besides CAD?
I want alps module,plate alps about alps :p
Thanks MOZ :eek:
I've not Alps keyboard to take measurements from, I'll try and find resources online and then post.
http://geekhack.org/index.php?topic=5318.msg77984#msg77984:p
Hey! It's a sticky! And at the top!
By the way, thanks for the basic keyboard layouts. I'm working on... something, and I found it very useful.
Thanks, just saw, really happy. I'll post more stuff as it is collected.
I don't have the time in hand, but would love to go through the thousands of posts in the making stuff subforum and any any and everything relevant to the OP.
Thank you sir.
Can I extract the components and post them as a dxf?
You might want to add this diagram of a costar stabiliser cutout (http://geekhack.org/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=33298.0;attach=951;image) from the DIY resources thread in this sub.
EDIT: credit to bpiphany for the diagram
Hi MOZ,Hey! It's a sticky! And at the top!
By the way, thanks for the basic keyboard layouts. I'm working on... something, and I found it very useful.
Thanks, just saw, really happy. I'll post more stuff as it is collected.
I don't have the time in hand, but would love to go through the thousands of posts in the making stuff subforum and any any and everything relevant to the OP.
Hi MOZ,Hey! It's a sticky! And at the top!
By the way, thanks for the basic keyboard layouts. I'm working on... something, and I found it very useful.
Thanks, just saw, really happy. I'll post more stuff as it is collected.
I don't have the time in hand, but would love to go through the thousands of posts in the making stuff subforum and any any and everything relevant to the OP.
is it possible to have drawings of aluminium 75% and 60% casings? amazing job by the way make this thread!
no i dont. what i meant was drawings of custom aluminium keyboard housings that fits standard pcb's from Filco, etc. or custom pcb's such as the TRix or the ps2avr87.Hi MOZ,Hey! It's a sticky! And at the top!
By the way, thanks for the basic keyboard layouts. I'm working on... something, and I found it very useful.
Thanks, just saw, really happy. I'll post more stuff as it is collected.
I don't have the time in hand, but would love to go through the thousands of posts in the making stuff subforum and any any and everything relevant to the OP.
is it possible to have drawings of aluminium 75% and 60% casings? amazing job by the way make this thread!
I don't quite follow, do you have an example of what you want?
I am still confused when you say aluminum.ok, just checked your signature, good job. what i meant was the casing is made of aluminium, not acrylic like in your thread. im looking for a case like from a KMAC or LZ series that fit the ps2avr87 pcb. i guess you cant help me then MOZ. :(
Are you looking for a layered case, cut in aluminum? Or a 3D model that can be milled from aluminium. If the former, then please have a look at my signature, I am still working on creating open source cases for 60% and TKL boards.
If you mean the latter, then sorry I have no experience with 3D modelling and someone else might be able to help you.
I can help you with layered designs.may i know how? what i need are casing drawings to send to a CNC place so they can cut aluminiums accordingly.
I can make the drawings for them.any pictures of these layered designs?
You could go the way of some members here, where they combined layered design's layers to make a two piece case that could be milled out of solid aluminum.
However I have no idea how to combine the layers, so sorry about that.
I can make the drawings for them.any pictures of these layered designs?
You could go the way of some members here, where they combined layered design's layers to make a two piece case that could be milled out of solid aluminum.
However I have no idea how to combine the layers, so sorry about that.
thanks jd. so basicly, use the drawings for the acrylic TKL case to CNC an aluminium version of it?I can make the drawings for them.any pictures of these layered designs?
You could go the way of some members here, where they combined layered design's layers to make a two piece case that could be milled out of solid aluminum.
However I have no idea how to combine the layers, so sorry about that.
Just do Google image search for "litster case" or "acrylic TKL case." I'm sure you will come up with something.
Yes. However if you go with my case, I would recommend waiting for a bit, as I am still reviewing the design and making possible changes.i searched kbdmania, but not found the ones like LZ or KMAC; all that i found was skinny-typed casing like GON's.
If you are using a PS2AVR/Trix PCB, then kbdmania has same case drawings that have been used for production.
That is what I meant, you'll find cases that can be laser cut for the PS2AVR/TRIXwell, im giving up... for now. cant seem to find drawing for aluminium cases. all that is available under open-source are skinny ones. alu cases most probably go under closed-source, which is very understandable considering the amount of work and effort to make one from scratch.
Any chance we can get layouts for costar only stabilizer holes in the list on page one for people that either don't want cherry stabs or have a design that prohibits them? If not how would you go about simplifying the combined stab holes for costar only?You can adapt the Cherry stabiliser holes to Costar very easily! In fact, in a way the Cherry stabiliser holes contain the Costar stabiliser holes.
Awesome!Let me know if you need any help man! :)
With some CAD software at school and limited access to a 3D printer, I feel obliged to use these resources to make a keycap of my very own.
Awesome!Let me know if you need any help man! :)
With some CAD software at school and limited access to a 3D printer, I feel obliged to use these resources to make a keycap of my very own.
Any chance we can get layouts for costar only stabilizer holes in the list on page one for people that either don't want cherry stabs or have a design that prohibits them? If not how would you go about simplifying the combined stab holes for costar only?You can adapt the Cherry stabiliser holes to Costar very easily! In fact, in a way the Cherry stabiliser holes contain the Costar stabiliser holes.Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/aykVZK5.png)
The center rectangle coloured in black is the Costar stabiliser hole. It's the exact same position as the Cherry stabiliser holes in MOZ's drawings, just remove the excess around the rectangle. Also remove the long lines that connect the stab holes and the switch hole.
Or, alternatively, just use the Cherry stabiliser holes! They will work with both kinds of stabilisers.
Anyone got a plate file for a Poker/GH60? Going to get in on the 60% pcb from sprit so I want to get my plates cut ahead of time. I could do it myself but I'm not confident I'll get the positioning right for the mounting hardware.
Anyone got a plate file for a Poker/GH60? Going to get in on the 60% pcb from sprit so I want to get my plates cut ahead of time. I could do it myself but I'm not confident I'll get the positioning right for the mounting hardware.
GH60 is opensource, I used it to design the case for my acrylic case and it should be correct as the GH60 was designed to be compatible with the Poker cases.
Anyone got a plate file for a Poker/GH60? Going to get in on the 60% pcb from sprit so I want to get my plates cut ahead of time. I could do it myself but I'm not confident I'll get the positioning right for the mounting hardware.
GH60 is opensource, I used it to design the case for my acrylic case and it should be correct as the GH60 was designed to be compatible with the Poker cases.
I tried looking for a GH60 plate file as well but couldn't seem to find anything. Plenty of images but no cad files.
Anyone got a plate file for a Poker/GH60? Going to get in on the 60% pcb from sprit so I want to get my plates cut ahead of time. I could do it myself but I'm not confident I'll get the positioning right for the mounting hardware.
GH60 is opensource, I used it to design the case for my acrylic case and it should be correct as the GH60 was designed to be compatible with the Poker cases.
I tried looking for a GH60 plate file as well but couldn't seem to find anything. Plenty of images but no cad files.
I think he was implying that you could use the measurements of the mounting holes from the GH60 PCB to draw the holes in the plate.
Anyone have actual dimensions for the bottom of DCS caps for larger than 1u sizes? Also I am looking for the radius for the corners on the bottom of DCS family caps as well.
Has anyone tried scanning caps to get actual dimensions from them?
Edit: I have downloaded the keylayouts.dwg file from here and tried measuring some of the caps and I think something got mucked up in the conversion to open it with SolidWorks. It is telling me that the width of a 1.5 unit Tab key is 701mm. Any ideas?
Yeah, there is something wrong in the conversion, as I used the measurements from keycapdirect for the 1u and used the same spacing to calculate other sizes.
Not sure of the corner radius though. I just approximated.
My best bet is still that you are only a factor of 25.4 off. The rest is probably rounding errors, or different family keycaps have different widths. Or there is a non-25.4mm inch involved somewhere...
... DWG is not that well supported in free Linux software.
Nope, sorry. Ask SP?
Can anyone recommend a free (as in free beer) software on Windows to edit DWG files? In particular I'd like to create a full size Cherry MX backplate file to send to a laser cutting company, but I have no idea what software to use.
I use DraftSight (http://www.3ds.com/products-services/draftsight/). Works great and it's free.
Check out the plate prototyping thread (http://geekhack.org/index.php?topic=40567.msg871748#msg871748) for a lot of good info (the whole thread is worth reading).
I installed solidworks today, watched some videos at cadjunkie@youtube (http://www.youtube.com/user/cadjunkie). I recommend it if your trying to get started with solidworks.
photek showed me the channel, the videos are from 2010, but they still apply for SW13.
edit: a night later...Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/Uj5piho.png)Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/wmOfa5U.png)
I use DraftSight (http://www.3ds.com/products-services/draftsight/). Works great and it's free.
I also stumbled on that one. It looks complete, but after an hour or so of reading the introductory guide it looks rather complex.QuoteCheck out the plate prototyping thread (http://geekhack.org/index.php?topic=40567.msg871748#msg871748) for a lot of good info (the whole thread is worth reading).
I used that thread as main inspiration for my current project (ie. realizing the non-staggered layout I want with that lasercut+bent backplane mounting method).I installed solidworks today, watched some videos at cadjunkie@youtube (http://www.youtube.com/user/cadjunkie). I recommend it if your trying to get started with solidworks.
photek showed me the channel, the videos are from 2010, but they still apply for SW13.
edit: a night later...Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/Uj5piho.png)Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/wmOfa5U.png)
Thanks for the links, but is there a free version of SolidWorks? I'm doing mostly open source hardware+software, I'd like to avoid forcing people reusing my stuff to use a proprietary software.
u refers to a Unit by Cherry, which is 19.05mm. 2.25u is the same as 2.25*19.05mm
Edit: I have received a response from Melissa at SP regarding key cap dimensions on some of the larger keys. The following is the response from her.
Key sizes are below for our DCS keycaps:
1.25 Space - 0.903" wide x 0.715"
1.5 space - 1.090" wide x 0.715"
1.75 space - 1.278" wide x 0.715"
2 space - 1.465" wide x 0.715"
2.25 space - 1.653" wide x 0.715"
2.75 space - 2.028" wide x 0.715"
is SP following Cherry standards? i understand Melvang/Melissa from SP suffixes with ### space. if that is their own proprietary unit, how do you fit their caps with Cherry switches? or more specifically, PCBsI think you misunderstand.
I think you misunderstand.
A 19.05mm unit is the space between the centre of two switch holes on a switch plate that are meant for 1x keycaps. The 1x keycaps themselves are smaller than 19.05mm.
There's no standard dimension.I think you misunderstand.
A 19.05mm unit is the space between the centre of two switch holes on a switch plate that are meant for 1x keycaps. The 1x keycaps themselves are smaller than 19.05mm.
thanks. is there a standard dimension for 1x keycaps?
There's no standard dimension.I think you misunderstand.
A 19.05mm unit is the space between the centre of two switch holes on a switch plate that are meant for 1x keycaps. The 1x keycaps themselves are smaller than 19.05mm.
thanks. is there a standard dimension for 1x keycaps?
Original Cherry keycaps(esc row) are about 18.3x18.4mm by my rough measurements
SP keycaps (esc row) are about 18.05x18.1mm by my rough measurements
Stepped = 4.763mm to the left.Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/AlI9qqI.png)
Regarding the Phantom plate designs in first post; will they fit Cherry and Costar stabs equally with no problems? I have been searching the forums and found reference to an 'improved' design by WFD. Are those CAD files good to go?
Sure. http://geekhack.org/index.php?topic=38623.0 (http://geekhack.org/index.php?topic=38623.0) It confusing to keep up with many iterations and designs. All I really want is to find one that has been made already and that I can use.Regarding the Phantom plate designs in first post; will they fit Cherry and Costar stabs equally with no problems? I have been searching the forums and found reference to an 'improved' design by WFD. Are those CAD files good to go?
They are good to go, do you a have link regarding the reference, just to be sure.
Individual components for designing plates (DWG) (http://www.dropbox.com/s/vb3fg4ndgq5ohmf/plate_components.dwg) This has pretty much all the different sized key units, including universal key units for mods based on the excellent work by WhiteFireDragon on the GH60 plates. I would also like to give a shout out to jdcarpe for his brilliant work in designing plates, which was the foundation for this work.Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/Hd5kmJA.png)
Won't really matter as Cherry specification has .002in = .05mm tolerance.
What is the standard spacing between cherry switches? I am not getting this part. Also a lot of the files on the drop box cannot be accessed anymore.
Hey, can anyone point me to the right direction for the litster phantom case?
How about a more general cry for help in making an acrylic case for TKLs? I have access to a cutter and it'll be a shame not to use it fully until I have to return it :(Hey, can anyone point me to the right direction for the litster phantom case?
The design isn't open for that one. That's why they are sought after, and expensive.
Check my open source tkl case thread.
I was almost done before an accident so now I have quite an older version.
I'm trying to put mounting holes in my dxf file. Does anyone have a drawing for a poker case compatible plate I can overlay. If what I'm saying doesn't make sense it's because I don't know what I'm doing. Please be kind :)The file I use is not exactly precise with regard to where the mounting holes are in relation to the PCB. It overcomes the lack of precision by having the holes be larger than necessary. I don't think you really want that. :(
I'm trying to put mounting holes in my dxf file. Does anyone have a drawing for a poker case compatible plate I can overlay. If what I'm saying doesn't make sense it's because I don't know what I'm doing. Please be kind :)The file I use is not exactly precise with regard to where the mounting holes are in relation to the PCB. It overcomes the lack of precision by having the holes be larger than necessary. I don't think you really want that. :(
Sorry if this is a noob question but im looking at the "phantom plates" file and im having an issue where the dimensions of the plates are 5.302mm x 13.982mm instead of 119mm x 344mm. Am I doing something wrong or is it the file? I checked it out using FreeCAD, Inkscape, and OpenSCAD.Sounds like the dimensions are in inches, not mm.
Where are the screw holes located between the ] and \ key and the tab and q for a 60% plate? Are the screw holes just in the middle of the two switches? Also what is the radius of them?
Where are the screw holes located between the ] and \ key and the tab and q for a 60% plate? Are the screw holes just in the middle of the two switches? Also what is the radius of them?
If you center them between the two switches, and use a raduis of 3.175mm, the fact that they aren't perfectly aligned with the screw holes will be compensated by their size. That's what I use. :)
Where are the screw holes located between the ] and \ key and the tab and q for a 60% plate? Are the screw holes just in the middle of the two switches? Also what is the radius of them?
If you center them between the two switches, and use a raduis of 3.175mm, the fact that they aren't perfectly aligned with the screw holes will be compensated by their size. That's what I use. :)
Cool thanks :thumb:
Also can I make the plate compatible with both a pure and poker layout by using the 2.75 universal switch cutout?
It seems to look like it would.Show Image(http://www.overclock.net/content/type/61/id/2145339/width/500/height/1000)
Where are the screw holes located between the ] and \ key and the tab and q for a 60% plate? Are the screw holes just in the middle of the two switches? Also what is the radius of them?
If you center them between the two switches, and use a raduis of 3.175mm, the fact that they aren't perfectly aligned with the screw holes will be compensated by their size. That's what I use. :)
Cool thanks :thumb:
Also can I make the plate compatible with both a pure and poker layout by using the 2.75 universal switch cutout?
It seems to look like it would.Show Image(http://www.overclock.net/content/type/61/id/2145339/width/500/height/1000)
Yes, but then you MUST use PCB mount stabilizers. Because you just cut away the area in the plate where stabilizers would mount.
Does anybody have a .dwg for a keyboard with with Matias ALPS switches?
You just need this picture [for Alps/Matias plates]. It's a rectangular hole 12.9x15.6mm. Still 19.05mm spacing center to center. :)This differs from all the specs I’ve seen, which call for 12.8 x 15.5mm switch holes, with tolerances of -0.0 / +0.1 mm for each dimension. If your hole gets to be 12.95 x 15.65, which your diagram specifies as okay, the switch starts to be a bit loose, though it should still work.Show Image(http://imgur.com/XYJqdwi.jpg)
Does any one know what the distance from the keycaps to the inner edge of the top part that's usually used is? I'm trying to design a housing and assume that it would be the same with the gaps between 2 keycaps (and so what is it by the way?)Gap between keycaps depends on the keycaps. Some are bigger than others, but center-to-center spacing is almost always consistent (.75 inches). You’ll need to look at a spec sheet, or bust out some calipers, if you want to find how much space there is with your specific keycaps.
Does any one know what the distance from the keycaps to the inner edge of the top part that's usually used is? I'm trying to design a housing and assume that it would be the same with the gaps between 2 keycaps (and so what is it by the way?)
:D
SP's DCS caps are .715" square for the single unit caps.[...] SP's DSA caps are a touch closer together at the bottom of the skirt.DSA are .725" square.
Individual components for designing plates (DWG) (http://www.dropbox.com/s/vb3fg4ndgq5ohmf/plate_components.dwg) This has pretty much all the different sized key units, including universal key units for mods based on the excellent work by WhiteFireDragon on the GH60 plates. I would also like to give a shout out to jdcarpe for his brilliant work in designing plates, which was the foundation for this work.Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/Hd5kmJA.png)
Thanks Ron, for finding these issues, I should probably address some of those things ASAP, which I will most likely in the weekend. Sorry for the delay, but I'm extremely busy at work this week as I just had a software deployment today, so the next few days are going to be a bit hectic.
Thanks Ron, for finding these issues, I should probably address some of those things ASAP, which I will most likely in the weekend. Sorry for the delay, but I'm extremely busy at work this week as I just had a software deployment today, so the next few days are going to be a bit hectic.
Thanks for the quick reply. Enjoy the post-deploy happiness!
FYI, I found specs for Costar switch stabs, but NOT spacebar stabs. (I need 7x for my prototype GH-122.)
http://deskthority.net/keyboards-f2/costar-stabilizer-plate-measurements-t5872.html
http://deskthority.net/resources/image/8093
Again, I'd fix the doc myself, but I have crappy CAD software ATM.
Best regards,
- Ron | samwisekoi
Sig auto-typed by my GH36 LH keypad.
Where are the screw holes located between the ] and \ key and the tab and q for a 60% plate? Are the screw holes just in the middle of the two switches? Also what is the radius of them?
If you center them between the two switches, and use a raduis of 3.175mm, the fact that they aren't perfectly aligned with the screw holes will be compensated by their size. That's what I use. :)
Cool thanks :thumb:
Also can I make the plate compatible with both a pure and poker layout by using the 2.75 universal switch cutout?
It seems to look like it would.Show Image(http://www.overclock.net/content/type/61/id/2145339/width/500/height/1000)
Yes, but then you MUST use PCB mount stabilizers. Because you just cut away the area in the plate where stabilizers would mount.
Where are the screw holes lo.cated between the ] and \ key and the tab and q for a 60% plate? Are the screw holes just in the middle of the two switches? Also what is the radius of them?
If you center them between the two switches, and use a raduis of 3.175mm, the fact that they aren't perfectly aligned with the screw holes will be compensated by their size. That's what I use. :)
Cool thanks :thumb:
Also can I make the plate compatible with both a pure and poker layout by using the 2.75 universal switch cutout?
It seems to look like it would.Show Image(http://www.overclock.net/content/type/61/id/2145339/width/500/height/1000)
Yes, but then you MUST use PCB mount stabilizers. Because you just cut away the area in the plate where stabilizers would mount.
One interesting thing I noticed about this switch cutout is that you can use two switches to act as the stabs for a right shift key and not have any middle switch. This probably only works for handwiring because you can move the switches around a little more but just a nice thing to know.
Just one small question, will these stab cutouts support Costar stabs?Show Image(http://www.overclock.net/content/type/61/id/2264128/width/500/height/1000)
Or at least does someone have the files for sprit's 2S case or a similar 60% case where the top layer is also the plate?
Or at least does someone have the files for sprit's 2S case or a similar 60% case where the top layer is also the plate?
Or at least does someone have the files for sprit's 2S case or a similar 60% case where the top layer is also the plate?
Is the sprit PCB compatible with poker/pure?
Or at least does someone have the files for sprit's 2S case or a similar 60% case where the top layer is also the plate?
Is the sprit PCB compatible with poker/pure?
It looks pretty standard to me. I just want to do a case somewhat similar to that and wanted to get an accurate price estimate
Kinda, though looking back now I forgot to actually include the layout in question: http://www.keyboard-layout-editor.com/#/layouts/312bd7677ad391eaf933b63e7771670eOr at least does someone have the files for sprit's 2S case or a similar 60% case where the top layer is also the plate?
Is the sprit PCB compatible with poker/pure?
It looks pretty standard to me. I just want to do a case somewhat similar to that and wanted to get an accurate price estimate
Yes it is compatible, I had/sold one of his 60% builds. You are basically just looking for a 5mm 60% plate that is poker compatible? Or did I miss something?
In a week or two my plate building tool should be at a point where I can automate the generation of that plate and the associated layers to make either a jd40 style case with spacers or a full layered sandwich case. I still have to get a plate cut with all my cutouts to verify they all work perfectly because I drew most of my cutouts from scratch based on specs.Kinda, though looking back now I forgot to actually include the layout in question: http://www.keyboard-layout-editor.com/#/layouts/312bd7677ad391eaf933b63e7771670eOr at least does someone have the files for sprit's 2S case or a similar 60% case where the top layer is also the plate?
Is the sprit PCB compatible with poker/pure?
It looks pretty standard to me. I just want to do a case somewhat similar to that and wanted to get an accurate price estimate
Yes it is compatible, I had/sold one of his 60% builds. You are basically just looking for a 5mm 60% plate that is poker compatible? Or did I miss something?
I was thinking the case would be something like the JD40 cases in that there would be just a top and bottom layer and spacers in the middle, so all I'd need would be a plate similar in size to that layout or standard 60% and the same thing without switch cutouts for the bottom plate
Ooh, that sounds really cool :thumb: Look forward to trying it outIn a week or two my plate building tool should be at a point where I can automate the generation of that plate and the associated layers to make either a jd40 style case with spacers or a full layered sandwich case. I still have to get a plate cut with all my cutouts to verify they all work perfectly because I drew most of my cutouts from scratch based on specs.Kinda, though looking back now I forgot to actually include the layout in question: http://www.keyboard-layout-editor.com/#/layouts/312bd7677ad391eaf933b63e7771670eOr at least does someone have the files for sprit's 2S case or a similar 60% case where the top layer is also the plate?
Is the sprit PCB compatible with poker/pure?
It looks pretty standard to me. I just want to do a case somewhat similar to that and wanted to get an accurate price estimate
Yes it is compatible, I had/sold one of his 60% builds. You are basically just looking for a 5mm 60% plate that is poker compatible? Or did I miss something?
I was thinking the case would be something like the JD40 cases in that there would be just a top and bottom layer and spacers in the middle, so all I'd need would be a plate similar in size to that layout or standard 60% and the same thing without switch cutouts for the bottom plate
I am hoping to have something online that people can start playing with soon. I will have to have a disclaimer on there till I have had a chance to test all of my cutouts.
You can see the progress so far and add comments and suggestions in my thread dedicated to the topic. The link is in my signature. I will try to post the URL here, but tapatalk my be stupid, we will see.Ooh, that sounds really cool :thumb: Look forward to trying it outIn a week or two my plate building tool should be at a point where I can automate the generation of that plate and the associated layers to make either a jd40 style case with spacers or a full layered sandwich case. I still have to get a plate cut with all my cutouts to verify they all work perfectly because I drew most of my cutouts from scratch based on specs.Kinda, though looking back now I forgot to actually include the layout in question: http://www.keyboard-layout-editor.com/#/layouts/312bd7677ad391eaf933b63e7771670eOr at least does someone have the files for sprit's 2S case or a similar 60% case where the top layer is also the plate?
Is the sprit PCB compatible with poker/pure?
It looks pretty standard to me. I just want to do a case somewhat similar to that and wanted to get an accurate price estimate
Yes it is compatible, I had/sold one of his 60% builds. You are basically just looking for a 5mm 60% plate that is poker compatible? Or did I miss something?
I was thinking the case would be something like the JD40 cases in that there would be just a top and bottom layer and spacers in the middle, so all I'd need would be a plate similar in size to that layout or standard 60% and the same thing without switch cutouts for the bottom plate
I am hoping to have something online that people can start playing with soon. I will have to have a disclaimer on there till I have had a chance to test all of my cutouts.
So how much do the switch cutouts add to the price of cutting material?
do you have some sort of example? Like a 30% difference for plates?So how much do the switch cutouts add to the price of cutting material?
A surprising amount. Especially when used with water jet, because before each turn they have to slow down the feed rate to maintain a quality cut. This adds a surprising amount to the the cutting time required.
That I can't tell ya. Mkawa could probably help you out with that as he has had plates made with and without notches for the exact same plates in Ti.If you have to slow it down to something like 1/2 the speed, you can figure out the time/cost difference between cutouts.
That I can't tell ya. Mkawa could probably help you out with that as he has had plates made with and without notches for the exact same plates in Ti.If you have to slow it down to something like 1/2 the speed, you can figure out the time/cost difference between cutouts.
That I can't tell ya. Mkawa could probably help you out with that as he has had plates made with and without notches for the exact same plates in Ti.If you have to slow it down to something like 1/2 the speed, you can figure out the time/cost difference between cutouts.
Tonight I did a back of the napkin calculation to try to give some sort of context to Melvang's comment about the price of cutting going up based on the complexity of the cutout. This is totally a rough calculation which does not have a direct monetary representation, but it will give you an idea. Basically, these numbers represent the length of the cut or the outline of the switch, plus a static value for each corner to account for the machine having to slow down. Again, this is totally a rough calculation just to illustrate the point.
Basically, each of these values is the length in mm, plus 1mm per corner to account for the slow down. So for the basic cutout you get 7+7+7+7+4 = 32. Make sense?
(Attachment Link)
Hopefully this gives some proportional idea how much more expensive the more elaborate cutouts will be.
Thanks JD. I was kind of guessing on my algorithm, so thanks for confirming that I am not totally off base. :)That I can't tell ya. Mkawa could probably help you out with that as he has had plates made with and without notches for the exact same plates in Ti.If you have to slow it down to something like 1/2 the speed, you can figure out the time/cost difference between cutouts.
Tonight I did a back of the napkin calculation to try to give some sort of context to Melvang's comment about the price of cutting going up based on the complexity of the cutout. This is totally a rough calculation which does not have a direct monetary representation, but it will give you an idea. Basically, these numbers represent the length of the cut or the outline of the switch, plus a static value for each corner to account for the machine having to slow down. Again, this is totally a rough calculation just to illustrate the point.
Basically, each of these values is the length in mm, plus 1mm per corner to account for the slow down. So for the basic cutout you get 7+7+7+7+4 = 32. Make sense?
(Attachment Link)
Hopefully this gives some proportional idea how much more expensive the more elaborate cutouts will be.
As someone who does laser engraving (not cutting) as part of my daily job, this seems pretty accurate. Expect the holes with "H" cuts to cost almost double what the simple square holes would cost.
Thanks JD. I was kind of guessing on my algorithm, so thanks for confirming that I am not totally off base. :)That I can't tell ya. Mkawa could probably help you out with that as he has had plates made with and without notches for the exact same plates in Ti.If you have to slow it down to something like 1/2 the speed, you can figure out the time/cost difference between cutouts.
Tonight I did a back of the napkin calculation to try to give some sort of context to Melvang's comment about the price of cutting going up based on the complexity of the cutout. This is totally a rough calculation which does not have a direct monetary representation, but it will give you an idea. Basically, these numbers represent the length of the cut or the outline of the switch, plus a static value for each corner to account for the machine having to slow down. Again, this is totally a rough calculation just to illustrate the point.
Basically, each of these values is the length in mm, plus 1mm per corner to account for the slow down. So for the basic cutout you get 7+7+7+7+4 = 32. Make sense?
(Attachment Link)
Hopefully this gives some proportional idea how much more expensive the more elaborate cutouts will be.
As someone who does laser engraving (not cutting) as part of my daily job, this seems pretty accurate. Expect the holes with "H" cuts to cost almost double what the simple square holes would cost.
You can try this one: https://geekhack.org/index.php?topic=48007.msg1032605#msg1032605
Or here: http://www.moz.twisted-artworx.com/TKLCase/
:D
Anybody have measurements and positioning the of cutouts for costar stabs without being combined with the cherry cutouts?
I'm guessing it's the exact same rectangular hole minus the notches on 3 sides and the opening for the wire that runs through the switch to the opposite stab, but I don't want to assume and mess it up.
I'm trying to make a plate for costar stabs with minimal extra openings to save cost and prevent dust and spills from creeping in.
Thanks a lot. Now my life is complete. =)Anybody have measurements and positioning the of cutouts for costar stabs without being combined with the cherry cutouts?
I'm guessing it's the exact same rectangular hole minus the notches on 3 sides and the opening for the wire that runs through the switch to the opposite stab, but I don't want to assume and mess it up.
I'm trying to make a plate for costar stabs with minimal extra openings to save cost and prevent dust and spills from creeping in.
Here you go...Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/JLZNcFs.png)Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/qkBtMC7.png)
Or does JD's plate cutout guides work if I copy the squares they are surrounded in and I tile them?
Ok, thanks! I am taking a try at designing a board I want from scratch, and I feel like the plate is the best place to start.Or does JD's plate cutout guides work if I copy the squares they are surrounded in and I tile them?
Take the file from the OP and tile them as you have described.
How far apart should I be spacing the cutouts for a plate if I am going to measure it from center to center?Center to center is 19.05mm. Have you tried my builder app? http://builder.swillkb.com
I have, but what I plan on doing is custom making everything. I want to make an aluminum case, and in order to do that where it is flush, I need to custom make the plate so it will seat the way I want it to. Although one thing that has me really confused is making sure everything is the right measurement, as copying and pasting JD's stuff and then measuring it is giving me like 16.xxx measurements on just the switch cutouts, and I am doing it because it is a lot easier to measure.How far apart should I be spacing the cutouts for a plate if I am going to measure it from center to center?Center to center is 19.05mm. Have you tried my builder app? http://builder.swillkb.com
Feel free to send me a dxf file and I can look over it for you.I have, but what I plan on doing is custom making everything. I want to make an aluminum case, and in order to do that where it is flush, I need to custom make the plate so it will seat the way I want it to. Although one thing that has me really confused is making sure everything is the right measurement, as copying and pasting JD's stuff and then measuring it is giving me like 16.xxx measurements on just the switch cutouts, and I am doing it because it is a lot easier to measure.How far apart should I be spacing the cutouts for a plate if I am going to measure it from center to center?Center to center is 19.05mm. Have you tried my builder app? http://builder.swillkb.com
Ok, thanks! Your tool has been very helpful with measurements, make a plate in the layout I want it, and measure it. I plan on taking some time with it, that way I can order each part once, maybe twice, that way I don't waste money on prototyping.Feel free to send me a dxf file and I can look over it for you.I have, but what I plan on doing is custom making everything. I want to make an aluminum case, and in order to do that where it is flush, I need to custom make the plate so it will seat the way I want it to. Although one thing that has me really confused is making sure everything is the right measurement, as copying and pasting JD's stuff and then measuring it is giving me like 16.xxx measurements on just the switch cutouts, and I am doing it because it is a lot easier to measure.How far apart should I be spacing the cutouts for a plate if I am going to measure it from center to center?Center to center is 19.05mm. Have you tried my builder app? http://builder.swillkb.com
You may want to create a dxf file with my tool and then open it in a cad program and edit as needed. That may save you some time. Let me know if you need help with anything and I will answer any questions I can. :)
Tonight I will be releasing an update which will draw all the different layers of the sandwich case. Not sure if that will help you.Ok, thanks! Your tool has been very helpful with measurements, make a plate in the layout I want it, and measure it. I plan on taking some time with it, that way I can order each part once, maybe twice, that way I don't waste money on prototyping.Feel free to send me a dxf file and I can look over it for you.I have, but what I plan on doing is custom making everything. I want to make an aluminum case, and in order to do that where it is flush, I need to custom make the plate so it will seat the way I want it to. Although one thing that has me really confused is making sure everything is the right measurement, as copying and pasting JD's stuff and then measuring it is giving me like 16.xxx measurements on just the switch cutouts, and I am doing it because it is a lot easier to measure.How far apart should I be spacing the cutouts for a plate if I am going to measure it from center to center?Center to center is 19.05mm. Have you tried my builder app? http://builder.swillkb.com
You may want to create a dxf file with my tool and then open it in a cad program and edit as needed. That may save you some time. Let me know if you need help with anything and I will answer any questions I can. :)
It will really help, I am scared I will screw up measurements or something free drawing the plate mounts.Tonight I will be releasing an update which will draw all the different layers of the sandwich case. Not sure if that will help you.Ok, thanks! Your tool has been very helpful with measurements, make a plate in the layout I want it, and measure it. I plan on taking some time with it, that way I can order each part once, maybe twice, that way I don't waste money on prototyping.Feel free to send me a dxf file and I can look over it for you.I have, but what I plan on doing is custom making everything. I want to make an aluminum case, and in order to do that where it is flush, I need to custom make the plate so it will seat the way I want it to. Although one thing that has me really confused is making sure everything is the right measurement, as copying and pasting JD's stuff and then measuring it is giving me like 16.xxx measurements on just the switch cutouts, and I am doing it because it is a lot easier to measure.How far apart should I be spacing the cutouts for a plate if I am going to measure it from center to center?Center to center is 19.05mm. Have you tried my builder app? http://builder.swillkb.com
You may want to create a dxf file with my tool and then open it in a cad program and edit as needed. That may save you some time. Let me know if you need help with anything and I will answer any questions I can. :)
It will probably go up at about midnight EST because I am busy till then. I still have some finishing touches, but it is basically ready.It will really help, I am scared I will screw up measurements or something free drawing the plate mounts.Tonight I will be releasing an update which will draw all the different layers of the sandwich case. Not sure if that will help you.Ok, thanks! Your tool has been very helpful with measurements, make a plate in the layout I want it, and measure it. I plan on taking some time with it, that way I can order each part once, maybe twice, that way I don't waste money on prototyping.Feel free to send me a dxf file and I can look over it for you.I have, but what I plan on doing is custom making everything. I want to make an aluminum case, and in order to do that where it is flush, I need to custom make the plate so it will seat the way I want it to. Although one thing that has me really confused is making sure everything is the right measurement, as copying and pasting JD's stuff and then measuring it is giving me like 16.xxx measurements on just the switch cutouts, and I am doing it because it is a lot easier to measure.How far apart should I be spacing the cutouts for a plate if I am going to measure it from center to center?Center to center is 19.05mm. Have you tried my builder app? http://builder.swillkb.com
You may want to create a dxf file with my tool and then open it in a cad program and edit as needed. That may save you some time. Let me know if you need help with anything and I will answer any questions I can. :)
One thing I noticed when I open the generated DXF files, whenever I make a selection, it selects everything ,and not the each cutout.Feel free to send me a dxf file and I can look over it for you.I have, but what I plan on doing is custom making everything. I want to make an aluminum case, and in order to do that where it is flush, I need to custom make the plate so it will seat the way I want it to. Although one thing that has me really confused is making sure everything is the right measurement, as copying and pasting JD's stuff and then measuring it is giving me like 16.xxx measurements on just the switch cutouts, and I am doing it because it is a lot easier to measure.How far apart should I be spacing the cutouts for a plate if I am going to measure it from center to center?Center to center is 19.05mm. Have you tried my builder app? http://builder.swillkb.com
You may want to create a dxf file with my tool and then open it in a cad program and edit as needed. That may save you some time. Let me know if you need help with anything and I will answer any questions I can. :)
Ya. That is expected because it is all exported as a single object. I am going to look into that and see if there is an easy way to split it up.One thing I noticed when I open the generated DXF files, whenever I make a selection, it selects everything ,and not the each cutout.Feel free to send me a dxf file and I can look over it for you.I have, but what I plan on doing is custom making everything. I want to make an aluminum case, and in order to do that where it is flush, I need to custom make the plate so it will seat the way I want it to. Although one thing that has me really confused is making sure everything is the right measurement, as copying and pasting JD's stuff and then measuring it is giving me like 16.xxx measurements on just the switch cutouts, and I am doing it because it is a lot easier to measure.How far apart should I be spacing the cutouts for a plate if I am going to measure it from center to center?Center to center is 19.05mm. Have you tried my builder app? http://builder.swillkb.com
You may want to create a dxf file with my tool and then open it in a cad program and edit as needed. That may save you some time. Let me know if you need help with anything and I will answer any questions I can. :)
Ah, thanks for the info, the generator is great nonetheless.Ya. That is expected because it is all exported as a single object. I am going to look into that and see if there is an easy way to split it up.One thing I noticed when I open the generated DXF files, whenever I make a selection, it selects everything ,and not the each cutout.Feel free to send me a dxf file and I can look over it for you.I have, but what I plan on doing is custom making everything. I want to make an aluminum case, and in order to do that where it is flush, I need to custom make the plate so it will seat the way I want it to. Although one thing that has me really confused is making sure everything is the right measurement, as copying and pasting JD's stuff and then measuring it is giving me like 16.xxx measurements on just the switch cutouts, and I am doing it because it is a lot easier to measure.How far apart should I be spacing the cutouts for a plate if I am going to measure it from center to center?Center to center is 19.05mm. Have you tried my builder app? http://builder.swillkb.com
You may want to create a dxf file with my tool and then open it in a cad program and edit as needed. That may save you some time. Let me know if you need help with anything and I will answer any questions I can. :)
Is there any available universal TKL plate cad files?
I'm teaching myself Fusion 360 so I have some experience with CAD which is based on a GUI rather than scripting. My practice item is a Row 3 spherical keycap. This should be similar to the SA keycap dimensions but not quite the same.Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/VSZQ1Vg.png)Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/gN5zWHE.png)
I've sent off to have Sculpteo print a copy of it off, so I can see how it looks in the real world. My first time using Sculpteo over i.Materialise, so I am interested to see how their stuff looks in comparison.
I've attached the .stl file to this post for others to make use of. If somebody wants a different format, let me know, and I will try to hook you up.
Is there a CAD file of the holes needed in a PCB to insert an MX-compatible switch? All the holes needed for the contact, LEDs, diodes, etc.?
Thanks.
Can someone measure the height of a Row 1 SA keycap for me? Thanks in advance!
Doesn't have the full height of the sculpt, I already downloaded the PDF
Is there a CAD file of the holes needed in a PCB to insert an MX-compatible switch? All the holes needed for the contact, LEDs, diodes, etc.?
Thanks.
https://www.dropbox.com/s/xxndnm3gpfw3u52/MX1A.mod?dl=0
Here's the KiCAD module for just an MX switch.
Yeah, that's how they should look if you want MX and Alps to work.Doesn't have the full height of the sculpt, I already downloaded the PDF
Yeah, I wish I had a Row 1 to measure for you, I sent all mine to JD a few months ago.
I thought it would be easy to calculate. Using the info on the PDF, you can calculate the height of the Row 2 cap based on the angle of the top (7°) being swept out as an arc of a circle using s =r\theta. That won't work for Row 1 since the 'low' part of the top of the form is not flush with the top of the cap on the 0° Row 1 cap. It felt good to stretch my geometry muscles for a bit though.Is there a CAD file of the holes needed in a PCB to insert an MX-compatible switch? All the holes needed for the contact, LEDs, diodes, etc.?
Thanks.
https://www.dropbox.com/s/xxndnm3gpfw3u52/MX1A.mod?dl=0
Here's the KiCAD module for just an MX switch.
I looked at that KiCAD pack, and the ALPS mount looks a little weird for me - double pin 1 hole. Does it come up like mine when you look at it?Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/eB7KVkQ.png)
Yeah, that's how they should look if you want MX and Alps to work.Doesn't have the full height of the sculpt, I already downloaded the PDF
Yeah, I wish I had a Row 1 to measure for you, I sent all mine to JD a few months ago.
I thought it would be easy to calculate. Using the info on the PDF, you can calculate the height of the Row 2 cap based on the angle of the top (7°) being swept out as an arc of a circle using s =r\theta. That won't work for Row 1 since the 'low' part of the top of the form is not flush with the top of the cap on the 0° Row 1 cap. It felt good to stretch my geometry muscles for a bit though.Is there a CAD file of the holes needed in a PCB to insert an MX-compatible switch? All the holes needed for the contact, LEDs, diodes, etc.?
Thanks.
https://www.dropbox.com/s/xxndnm3gpfw3u52/MX1A.mod?dl=0
Here's the KiCAD module for just an MX switch.
I looked at that KiCAD pack, and the ALPS mount looks a little weird for me - double pin 1 hole. Does it come up like mine when you look at it?Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/eB7KVkQ.png)
Doesn't have the full height of the sculpt, I already downloaded the PDF
Yeah, I wish I had a Row 1 to measure for you, I sent all mine to JD a few months ago.
I thought it would be easy to calculate. Using the info on the PDF, you can calculate the height of the Row 2 cap based on the angle of the top (7°) being swept out as an arc of a circle using s =r\theta. That won't work for Row 1 since the 'low' part of the top of the form is not flush with the top of the cap on the 0° Row 1 cap. It felt good to stretch my geometry muscles for a bit though.
Thank you!Doesn't have the full height of the sculpt, I already downloaded the PDF
Yeah, I wish I had a Row 1 to measure for you, I sent all mine to JD a few months ago.
I thought it would be easy to calculate. Using the info on the PDF, you can calculate the height of the Row 2 cap based on the angle of the top (7°) being swept out as an arc of a circle using s =r\theta. That won't work for Row 1 since the 'low' part of the top of the form is not flush with the top of the cap on the 0° Row 1 cap. It felt good to stretch my geometry muscles for a bit though.
My calipers suck, but it looks to be about 16.5mm tall at the peak (sub millimeter measurements are by eye, so consider this a rough measurement till someone with decent calipers can take a measurement or I can take a cap to work and measure it tomorrow). And row2/4 looks to be ~13.75mm if you wanted that height too.
Well I'm a huge CAD noob and I have a plate file from Beast. I just need the caps lock hole enlarged to allow for a left stem in addition to the center stem.Yeah, I am not at my PC, but if you go to the Dropbox link in the 1st page, download the Plate Resources that JD made, and then you will find the correct holes. Take the 1u, like it up with the 'a' hole next to caps lock, place it there, get the off center caps, place it wherever, highlight it, click the move tool, place the movement on the bottom right of the bounding box, and place it on the bottom left corner of the a hole bounding box
Can someone help me modify the file?
Well I'm a huge CAD noob and I have a plate file from Beast. I just need the caps lock hole enlarged to allow for a left stem in addition to the center stem.Yeah, I am not at my PC, but if you go to the Dropbox link in the 1st page, download the Plate Resources that JD made, and then you will find the correct holes. Take the 1u, like it up with the 'a' hole next to caps lock, place it there, get the off center caps, place it wherever, highlight it, click the move tool, place the movement on the bottom right of the bounding box, and place it on the bottom left corner of the a hole bounding box
Can someone help me modify the file?
What is the proper thickness for a Cherry MX mounting plate?
What is the proper thickness for a Cherry MX mounting plate?
~1.5mm depending on what material you use and who you're asking
Will upload to GitHub tomorrow morning, 11PM here.
Will upload to GitHub tomorrow morning, 11PM here.
Yet another necro to ask a question: [...]
Yes, otherwise they won't fit. There should be specs for different kinds of materials online. Or you could ask Kurplop :DMarvellous, thank you for your reply.
Also, different materials have different temperature expansion properties. Depending on your design, getting too snug of a fit can cause them to undergo tensioning and reshape the whole thing slightly as the temperature changes.
The stabilizer length for a 7u spacebar is ~4.5 inches. How long should it be for a 6.25u spacebar? Can I just remove 0.75u and interpolate inches from that? None of the MX tech sheets mention 6.25u stabilizer sizing, only 7u.
EDIT: from my interpolation 6.25u stabilizer holes should be 4.02 inches apart, is this anywhere near the correct value?
EDIT2: it seems that it should be 100mm from wire to wire, or 3.94 inches.
The stabilizer length for a 7u spacebar is ~4.5 inches. How long should it be for a 6.25u spacebar? Can I just remove 0.75u and interpolate inches from that? None of the MX tech sheets mention 6.25u stabilizer sizing, only 7u.
EDIT: from my interpolation 6.25u stabilizer holes should be 4.02 inches apart, is this anywhere near the correct value?
EDIT2: it seems that it should be 100mm from wire to wire, or 3.94 inches.
Cherry stabilizers work like this:Show Image(https://i.imgur.com/BGdDnUk.png)
So you can work it out as such: (Size of spacebar - 1) x 19.05
The spacing for 7u is 6 units apart, which is 114.3. 6.25u is 100.0125 (5.25u), and 6u is 95.25 (5u).
The stabilizer length for a 7u spacebar is ~4.5 inches. How long should it be for a 6.25u spacebar? Can I just remove 0.75u and interpolate inches from that? None of the MX tech sheets mention 6.25u stabilizer sizing, only 7u.
EDIT: from my interpolation 6.25u stabilizer holes should be 4.02 inches apart, is this anywhere near the correct value?
EDIT2: it seems that it should be 100mm from wire to wire, or 3.94 inches.
Cherry stabilizers work like this:Show Image(https://i.imgur.com/BGdDnUk.png)
So you can work it out as such: (Size of spacebar - 1) x 19.05
The spacing for 7u is 6 units apart, which is 114.3. 6.25u is 100.0125 (5.25u), and 6u is 95.25 (5u).
Oh did not know it was a standard sizing scheme. Though that they were just random values. Thanks!
Hi guys, I need the dimensions, or a DWG file, for the plate cutouts that work with PCB mount stabs (see photo below). Are there any in GH CAD resources hub?Show Image(https://i.imgur.com/APVjwcT.png)
Glad you are around, redbanshee. If I get it right, does this drawing match to what you are saying? ( My intention is that the switch cutout holds the switch tight, and the stab cutouts lets PCB mount stabs get through the plate. )
alright, can you tell me the dimensions for this alternative?
redbanchee: cool, I owe you a pint!
Today I have for you guys a stabilizer model measured from the real thing (cherry stabs) using digital calipers. I started this thinking I wanted to make an improved design for the current cherry stabs that we use today, but after modifying this design and then getting tooling quotes and realizing i would have to sell a cubic assload of stabs, I gave up. I just dont have the time beyond my professional life to worry about or coordinate the sale of these. So here you guys go, use as you wish but if you were to use this model in some form of production, please give credit to me where it is due.Show Image(https://i.imgur.com/pS5E3rS.png)
Another question, I calculate a keycap as 18 * 18 mm for 1U, so standard safety gap between edges (of keycaps, or keycap-caseing) is 1,05mm, but is that really necessary? I'm looking for the balance between "as much as necessary, but not more".