Alps Appreciation Thread

[mrbishop]

Last time I did that she was just fat.

[Mattr567]

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Done her restoration, finally. My Datapoint-branded Acer KB101A :)

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Don't have to use her like this anymore:

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Nice board, but I really don't know what of all my vintage blue Alps boards is my favorite, heh.

Man you got all the goodies. Leading Edge DC 3014? Damn. You have so much SKCM Blue you wouldn't know what to do with it lol. How much do ya think you have spent on keyboards so far?

That's like asking a woman if they're pregnant!

So Eve is equatable is a fat woman? Lol. Wonder how many keyboards he will birth get next. )

[mrbishop]

Wonder if they will be 40% boards till they grow up.

[Webserfer]

I may of accidentally fried this board or at least the ships on it as while trying to repair the desktop its paired with I put voltage into some wires it shouldn't go and now throws up an error and doesn't respond.

So if I did kill it my question is, is it worth trying to repair? The circuit board looks like I can just cut the traces and solder to the switches. I saw some cheap keyboard controllers around.

Is it worth my time or are the switches weak, old or cheap to be worth it?

Anyone?

[Blaise170]

Ha! I've probably spent $2000 to $3000 on keyboards. Fortunately I have a continual cycle of buying and selling so right now I'm only about $1500 in the hole until I start selling off the 34 WYSE I just bought and the 35+ keyboards I just got in from Japan. I'll have to inventory all this stuff which is the scary part...

[E3E]

Man you got all the goodies. Leading Edge DC 3014? Damn. You have so much SKCM Blue you wouldn't know what to do with it lol. How much do ya think you have spent on keyboards so far?

It took me a while to get them, but I worked smart, not stupidly expensive. The most expensive blue Alps board I got was $123 for a dinky Monterey K101 103, and it's not even that great. The price was thanks to the EMS shipping rate from China.

The cheapest boards have been $85 for a Leading Edge DC-2014 and $89 for the Leading Edge DC-3014 and $89 again for the Datapoint Acer KB101A. Otherwise, it's been $100 on average for every blue Alps board I own. So kind of pricy, but not ridiculously so.

Started with the NTC 6151N, then got the DC-2014, then got the FAME TH-5539, then the Monterey K101 103 (the back label is confusing), then the Leading Edge DC-3014, then the Focus FK-555, and finally the Acer KB101A. I'm also getting a Focus FK-2001, but it's going to be scrapped (it's just the PCB and plate and has missing caps-got it for $25) and is going to go into the Orion v2. My Orion v2 will likely go between Alps SKCM Blues and Alps SKCL (linear) Browns.

I wanted to put my Alps SKCM Neon Greens (or Lime, or Tactile Greens) in the Orion v2, but after restoring the keyboards, I just couldn't.

I've spent at least $2000 in this hobby so far; I'm not sure how much exactly. I try to be as frugal as possible.

Here's some typing videos of the Xerox keyboard with SKCM Green:

They are definitely my favorite Alps boards right now. Such nice caps, the switches feel nice on both early and old models, and the look is just so sleek and it's more slimline than any other vintage I've dealt with which is just so cool.

My FAME keyboard is my favorite, but that is because I personalized it and that made it very dear to me. If we're talking stock, then these take the cake.

[bocahgundul]

@E3E could you also post the sounds of skcm browns and skcl browns? I'm really interested on those 2 switches

[E3E]

@E3E could you also post the sounds of skcm browns and skcl browns? I'm really interested on those 2 switches

I have no SKCM Browns in a board right now, but I can throw them in my other hotswappable Duck Eagle and record that for you with their original PBT caps if you want. I still have the terminal board the SKCL browns came in. They sound amazing in the plastic-cased board they came in. I don't know if they'll sound as pleasing in the Orion v2, but if they sound anything like that at all, then I will be very pleased to use them.

Like almost all Alps linears though, they ping like mad. Spring lubing is a good idea.

SKCM Brown and pine SKCM Neon Green are very similar but Brown is a bit more firm and rigid. I like Neons more, but SKCM Browns are nice.

[Mattr567]

Man you got all the goodies. Leading Edge DC 3014? Damn. You have so much SKCM Blue you wouldn't know what to do with it lol. How much do ya think you have spent on keyboards so far?

It took me a while to get them, but I worked smart, not stupidly expensive. The most expensive blue Alps board I got was $123 for a dinky Monterey K101 103, and it's not even that great. The price was thanks to the EMS shipping rate from China.

The cheapest boards have been $85 for a Leading Edge DC-2014 and $89 for the Leading Edge DC-3014 and $89 again for the Datapoint Acer KB101A. Otherwise, it's been $100 on average for every blue Alps board I own. So kind of pricy, but not ridiculously so.

Started with the NTC 6151N, then got the DC-2014, then got the FAME TH-5539, then the Monterey K101 103 (the back label is confusing), then the Leading Edge DC-3014, then the Focus FK-555, and finally the Acer KB101A. I'm also getting a Focus FK-2001, but it's going to be scrapped (it's just the PCB and plate and has missing caps-got it for $25) and is going to go into the Orion v2. My Orion v2 will likely go between Alps SKCM Blues and Alps SKCL (linear) Browns.

I wanted to put my Alps SKCM Neon Greens (or Lime, or Tactile Greens) in the Orion v2, but after restoring the keyboards, I just couldn't.

I've spent at least $2000 in this hobby so far; I'm not sure how much exactly. I try to be as frugal as possible.

Here's some typing videos of the Xerox keyboard with SKCM Green:

They are definitely my favorite Alps boards right now. Such nice caps, the switches feel nice on both early and old models, and the look is just so sleek and it's more slimline than any other vintage I've dealt with which is just so cool.

My FAME keyboard is my favorite, but that is because I personalized it and that made it very dear to me. If we're talking stock, then these take the cake.

Those are some amazing prices! Right now there is a DC-3014 bidding near $180. You sniped the **** out of those.

If you love the Xerox's so much then convert one! Those sounds really nice. The pine sounds like somewhat scratchier SKCM Orange while the bamboo's sound like SKCM Salmons. There is definitely a generational difference that can be heard in the tone. Sleek looking boards indeed. Hows the layout, could you get used to it from standard ANSI?

I've probaley spent less than 1k. Its not like I have a crazy budget. Avg board I buy is around 60-70. The Zenith was $70, the SGI was $60, G80 $40, Model M $40, and the most expensive I own right now is the V60 at $120. The most I ever spent on my former K70 RGB at $170. Not doing too bad at all. Plus when I buy switches to swap I always can sell the old switches and break even on those. Still need to sell some MX Clears and modded SKCM White Damp.

[chyros]

The total net amount of money I've spent on keyboards, converters, boxes, switches, pullers, soldering gear, tools, etc. is about £60, although I should be in the black again soon. I simply can't afford any more xD .

[fohat.digs]

The total net amount of money I've spent on keyboards, converters, boxes, switches, pullers, soldering gear, tools, etc. is about £60, although I should be in the black again soon. I simply can't afford any more xD .

Lucky dog.

I can never find enough  buy-low/sell-high  gear to make a dent.

[fohat.digs]

So if I did kill it my question is, is it worth trying to repair? The circuit board looks like I can just cut the traces and solder to the switches. I saw some cheap keyboard controllers around.

Is it worth my time or are the switches weak, old or cheap to be worth it?

That is not a lot of info to go on. Are you talking about the old white Alps keyboard?

There are possibilities, but it may not be worth investing the time and effort unless you know that you really like that particular board.

Controllers are very different, and that thing is probably 25 years old or more.

If you can see what appears to be a localized problem, then maybe you can replace just that area.

[Blaise170]

Speaking of Blue Alps, I remember back when they were even cheaper than $85. I got my Samsung branded Chicony 5161 from a Goodwill auction (by accident!) and later sold it for the market price at the time... $60! And that board was in almost perfect condition!

[E3E]

Speaking of Blue Alps, I remember back when they were even cheaper than $85. I got my Samsung branded Chicony 5161 from a Goodwill auction (by accident!) and later sold it for the market price at the time... $60! And that board was in almost perfect condition!

EXCEPT FOR THE CRACKED CASE (twas just a tiny thing). Haha, just teasing. I actually have that bezel too, as it's where I sourced the super cool Samsung sticker for my FAME keyboard. It shall forever live on!

Yeah, Chyros has some good hook ups with universities and e-cyclers. In New Orleans, we don't have much, at least nothing close enough to just go out and nab. ComradeSniper (not in New Orleans), for instance, drives out 7 hours to his e-cycling contact. I wouldn't and can't do that.

Oh how I would love dirt cheap finds, but I'm comfy with $70-100 for a good vintage. The x4 Xerox find for $99 (they are individually worth SO much more than that, imo), and the $80-range blue Alps finds like this Datapoint branded Acer KB101A and the Leading Edge DC-3014 are some of my favorites and feel like real deals to me.

The Focus FK-555 I got in immaculate condition is also something that's very prized because of how rare they are and how much more so it is rare to see any old Alps board in perfect condition. Score, especially for being such a hefty and well-built board! That one has one of my favorite typing sounds for blue Alps along with my FAME. I guess the metal-backed ones really are some of the nicest acoustically.

[Webserfer]

So if I did kill it my question is, is it worth trying to repair? The circuit board looks like I can just cut the traces and solder to the switches. I saw some cheap keyboard controllers around.

Is it worth my time or are the switches weak, old or cheap to be worth it?

That is not a lot of info to go on. Are you talking about the old white Alps keyboard?

There are possibilities, but it may not be worth investing the time and effort unless you know that you really like that particular board.

Controllers are very different, and that thing is probably 25 years old or more.

If you can see what appears to be a localized problem, then maybe you can replace just that area.

Oh right sorry I removed the images as to not clutter, Its the PcDirect old board on the last page, here's the album link if you need it http://imgur.com/a/iKZVX

I actually (somehow) got it to work again on my main PC So I guess ignore the part about the keyboard controller

Its from about 93 so at least 22 years.

[fohat.digs]

I actually (somehow) got it to work again on my main PC

Sometimes we forget that not everything can be hot-plugged like USB.
A PS/2 or older keyboard must be discovered at boot-up.

[pr0ximity]

Please guys, stop killing off these old Zeniths D: . They've got looks, character, beautiful badges, NKRO and are built infinitely better than anything you could possibly transplant the switches into D: . They really don't deserve such a cruel fate .

  crossposting: https://geekhack.org/index.php?topic=76021.msg2098103#msg2098103

[klennkellon]

Anybody have any idea how I could fix the casing on my Focus?

The clamps on the bottom are broken, so the bottom half of the top shell just kind of hovers and is floppy.

[E3E]

Anybody have any idea how I could fix the casing on my Focus?

The clamps on the bottom are broken, so the bottom half of the top shell just kind of hovers and is floppy.

If you have any scrap ABS around that matches the color, you could weld the plastic and fill any gaps that way. That's the only way you'll get a bond that's strong enough to withstand the kind of stress that tabs handle, I'd say. There are some plastic bonding glues and pastes, but I'm not so sure on their durability.

I fixed some broken tabs on a board by using some ABS sheet, plast-aid pool repair paste that bonds to anything acrylic-based, and plastic welding. It held up okay, but I still never plan on opening the board ever again after that.

[klennkellon]

Anybody have any idea how I could fix the casing on my Focus?

The clamps on the bottom are broken, so the bottom half of the top shell just kind of hovers and is floppy.

If you have any scrap ABS around that matches the color, you could weld the plastic and fill any gaps that way. That's the only way you'll get a bond that's strong enough to withstand the kind of stress that tabs handle, I'd say. There are some plastic bonding glues and pastes, but I'm not so sure on their durability.

I fixed some broken tabs on a board by using some ABS sheet, plast-aid pool repair paste that bonds to anything acrylic-based, and plastic welding. It held up okay, but I still never plan on opening the board ever again after that.

I actually found some super glue lying around, i could just use three small dabs of it on the corner and the middle, then if I need to open it I could just use a butter knife and some goo gone.

I'll be sure to finish up tinkering with the insides before I do this. I've been using tape to keep it closed in the mean time but it does not grip well to the plastic and peels off in an hour, even if I don't touch it at all.

[klennkellon]

I actually have a new idea. It won't look as pretty but it's much easier to work with.

1. Drill a hole through both parts of the keyboard

2. Put a bolt through the keyboard and use some super glue to hold the head of the bolt to the keyboard

3. Put a nut/washer on the part of the bolt sticking through the bottom of the keyboard

[S1llyC0ne]

I actually have a new idea. It won't look as pretty but it's much easier to work with.

1. Drill a hole through both parts of the keyboard

2. Put a bolt through the keyboard and use some super glue to hold the head of the bolt to the keyboard

3. Put a nut/washer on the part of the bolt sticking through the bottom of the keyboard

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This is a mightily ugly fix !

[klennkellon]

I actually have a new idea. It won't look as pretty but it's much easier to work with.

1. Drill a hole through both parts of the keyboard

2. Put a bolt through the keyboard and use some super glue to hold the head of the bolt to the keyboard

3. Put a nut/washer on the part of the bolt sticking through the bottom of the keyboard

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This is a mightily ugly fix !

I could also put the top of the bolt inside of the case, glued to the inner shell, so the only thing protruding is the bottom

[Webserfer]

I actually (somehow) got it to work again on my main PC

Sometimes we forget that not everything can be hot-plugged like USB.
A PS/2 or older keyboard must be discovered at boot-up.

Dont worry I used to use this thing with its original machine I know all about the reboot needed stuff
. The amount of times ive had to reboot my machine recently for testing this KB is to many.

I actually have a new idea. It won't look as pretty but it's much easier to work with.

1. Drill a hole through both parts of the keyboard

2. Put a bolt through the keyboard and use some super glue to hold the head of the bolt to the keyboard

3. Put a nut/washer on the part of the bolt sticking through the bottom of the keyboard

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Why not just roll with it and give the board an industrial theme? Bolts, metal, worn pain ect? then you could say no one owns a board like yours :D

[E3E]

I actually have a new idea. It won't look as pretty but it's much easier to work with.

1. Drill a hole through both parts of the keyboard

2. Put a bolt through the keyboard and use some super glue to hold the head of the bolt to the keyboard

3. Put a nut/washer on the part of the bolt sticking through the bottom of the keyboard

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Depending on how the tabs lock into the case, I bet there are some ways you can do this pretty seamlessly. Because of how the Xerox Docutech's tabs locked in, there was no easy way to fix the tabs without it looking unsightly, which I felt was NOT an option for those boards.

[Mattr567]

So I have demik's HHKB with me here and I don't get the "SKCM Orange is the closet switch to Topre" thing at all. There barely similar. By far the closet is SKCM Cream Damp or White Damp. They are 85% Topre. I think the reason I was so harsh toward Damp Alps switches previously is the weight, a 70g Damp switch feels mushy. If Alps had a faster return rate as well then it would be very close to Topre.

[chyros]

So I have demik's HHKB with me here and I don't get the "SKCM Orange is the closet switch to Topre" thing at all. There barely similar. By far the closet is SKCM Cream Damp or White Damp. They are 85% Topre. I think the reason I was so harsh toward Damp Alps switches previously is the weight, a 70g Damp switch feels mushy. If Alps had a faster return rate as well then it would be very close to Topre.

SKCM Neon Green are closer yet than SKCM Cream Damp. They don't even feel like other Alps switches.

[E3E]

So I have demik's HHKB with me here and I don't get the "SKCM Orange is the closet switch to Topre" thing at all. There barely similar. By far the closet is SKCM Cream Damp or White Damp. They are 85% Topre. I think the reason I was so harsh toward Damp Alps switches previously is the weight, a 70g Damp switch feels mushy. If Alps had a faster return rate as well then it would be very close to Topre.

I tried both Damped (I call them Dampened, but hey) Cream yesterday as well as Topre, and I personally think that a damped cream slider in a tactile brown or tactile green housing feels most like Topre.

Though I prefer the feeling of Alps to Topre, to be honest, so I'd never make a board with the intent to simulate Topre. The main difference, I think, between the feel Topre and Alps is the bottom out. Hard clacks from bottoming out on Alps, but being rubber, of course Topre has a gentle bottom out. This is why damped Alps switches are part of the equation.

I was also looking at damped cream's tactile leaves, and it looks far sharper than even Alps SKCM Salmon. It's got a lot more tactility. Soon, I'll have a bamboo Black Alps Dell AT101W to compare leaves with to see if damped has its own unique leaf or if it's shared with blacks.

I find damped switches alone to feel like uncoordinated Topre, or what you'd get if you crossed Alps with a rubber dome (Acer switch?). It's not very smooth, it's wobbly because it's Alps.

Mattr, you talk about the return rate. Would this mean an even higher weighted spring would be needed?

EDIT: Just adding a disclaimer that I'm new to both Topre and SKCM Damped Cream, so these are just initial impressions!

[Mattr567]

So I have demik's HHKB with me here and I don't get the "SKCM Orange is the closet switch to Topre" thing at all. There barely similar. By far the closet is SKCM Cream Damp or White Damp. They are 85% Topre. I think the reason I was so harsh toward Damp Alps switches previously is the weight, a 70g Damp switch feels mushy. If Alps had a faster return rate as well then it would be very close to Topre.

I tried both Damped (I call them Dampened, but hey) Cream yesterday as well as Topre, and I personally think that a damped cream slider in a tactile brown or tactile green housing feels most like Topre.

Though I prefer the feeling of Alps to Topre, to be honest, so I'd never make a board with the intent to simulate Topre. The main difference, I think, between the feel Topre and Alps is the bottom out. Hard clacks from bottoming out on Alps, but being rubber, of course Topre has a gentle bottom out. This is why damped Alps switches are part of the equation.

I was also looking at damped cream's tactile leaves, and it looks far sharper than even Alps SKCM Salmon. It's got a lot more tactility. Soon, I'll have a bamboo Black Alps Dell AT101W to compare leaves with to see if damped has its own unique leaf or if it's shared with blacks.

I find damped switches alone to feel like uncoordinated Topre, or what you'd get if you crossed Alps with a rubber dome (Acer switch?). It's not very smooth, it's wobbly because it's Alps.

Mattr, you talk about the return rate. Would this mean an even higher weighted spring would be needed?

EDIT: Just adding a disclaimer that I'm new to both Topre and SKCM Damped Cream, so these are just initial impressions!

Yea. I used  to daily a AEKII with almost NIB level Cream Damp Alps and I agree with you. I just dont get the notion that SKCM Orange is the closet. Doesn't make much sense to me.

Kinda. By return rate I mean how fast the switch goes back to its normal position. Cherry MX goes back very quickly while Topre is in the middle and Alps is last. Alps being slow kinda bugs me on longer unit spacebars. For Alps I guess a heavier weighted spring would be needed. To compensate for the design making it slow? Since Cherry MX can be quite light yet have a faster return rate.

[E3E]

As far as tactility, I'd say that SKCM Brown and SKCM Neon Green are the closest to Topre because of a high, yet rounded feel, but no Alps switch feels like Topre on bottom out aside from the Damped variety because of the rubber bumpers. So a mix of those varieties would be closest. I'd imagine that bocah considers the SKCM Orange switch to be close to topre because it's smooth and light. It does have a very pleasant feel.

Yeah, I get you with return rate. Alps does use a tiny spring compared to Cherry. I wonder if that has anything to do with it.

[Venatorious]

SKCM brown is really close to topre.


The "thud" is quite noticeable on browns.

[klennkellon]

Industrial FK-2001!

I'm dead serious, I will post pics when I get the chance. I will fix the clamps and paint it grey.

EDIT:

Instead I might buy a beat up yellowed FK-2001 on Ebay and paint over it instead, so I don't have to fix the damned clamps.

[Mattr567]

Industrial FK-2001!

I'm dead serious, I will post pics when I get the chance. I will fix the clamps and paint it grey.

EDIT:

Instead I might buy a beat up yellowed FK-2001 on Ebay and paint over it instead, so I don't have to fix the damned clamps.

Focus beat ya to it, a completely black FK-2001 exists. See this thread from 5 years ago https://geekhack.org/index.php?topic=21106.0

[E3E]

Focus beat ya to it, a completely black FK-2001 exists. See this thread from 5 years ago https://geekhack.org/index.php?topic=21106.0

One went on eBay not too long ago, actually, and for hardly anything.



http://www.ebay.com/itm/Vintage-Black-FOCUS-FK-2001-type-Clicky-Keyboard-AT-XT-Mold-Injected-keys-/252241606418?hash=item3abac57712%3Ag%3ASbYAAOSwoydWjq3o&nma=true&si=9Ba%252FCfHEbEBqYK8fClKFuHZquqs%253D&orig_cvip=true&rt=nc&_trksid=p2047675.l2557

[Mattr567]

Focus beat ya to it, a completely black FK-2001 exists. See this thread from 5 years ago https://geekhack.org/index.php?topic=21106.0

One went on eBay not too long ago, actually, and for hardly anything.

Show Image

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Vintage-Black-FOCUS-FK-2001-type-Clicky-Keyboard-AT-XT-Mold-Injected-keys-/252241606418?hash=item3abac57712%3Ag%3ASbYAAOSwoydWjq3o&nma=true&si=9Ba%252FCfHEbEBqYK8fClKFuHZquqs%253D&orig_cvip=true&rt=nc&_trksid=p2047675.l2557

Oh yea, I saw that a while back. It was probably for some special/specific system or something.

[klennkellon]

Industrial FK-2001!

I'm dead serious, I will post pics when I get the chance. I will fix the clamps and paint it grey.

EDIT:

Instead I might buy a beat up yellowed FK-2001 on Ebay and paint over it instead, so I don't have to fix the damned clamps.

Nice, but it's black, I'm talking grey like an Industrial Model M.

Focus beat ya to it, a completely black FK-2001 exists. See this thread from 5 years ago https://geekhack.org/index.php?topic=21106.0

[spanyam]

After enjoying a KBP V60 with Matias Linears for a couple of months, I just built a 60% Infinity (using Hasu's ALPS64 PCB) with SKCM Orange Alps. It's an absolute joy to type on, and I'm really liking the DSA keycap profile. Here's a pic:



Unfortunately, the second-hand keycap set I bought is missing one 1.5u, but PMK will be shipping me a 4 pack soon Loving these switches already, especially the sound.

[rowdy]

After enjoying a KBP V60 with Matias Linears for a couple of months, I just built a 60% Infinity (using Hasu's ALPS64 PCB) with SKCM Orange Alps. It's an absolute joy to type on, and I'm really liking the DSA keycap profile. Here's a pic:

Show Image

Unfortunately, the second-hand keycap set I bought is missing one 1.5u, but PMK will be shipping me a 4 pack soon :D Loving these switches already, especially the sound.

I didn't know SP made Alps DSA keycaps!

[njbair]

After enjoying a KBP V60 with Matias Linears for a couple of months, I just built a 60% Infinity (using Hasu's ALPS64 PCB) with SKCM Orange Alps. It's an absolute joy to type on, and I'm really liking the DSA keycap profile. Here's a pic:

Show Image

Unfortunately, the second-hand keycap set I bought is missing one 1.5u, but PMK will be shipping me a 4 pack soon :D Loving these switches already, especially the sound.

I didn't know SP made Alps DSA keycaps!

Yep, they've been a part of the Infinity kit on Massdrop since the beginning. However I don't think they are a stock item in the PMK store, at least not as a full set.

[spanyam]

Yep, they've been a part of the Infinity kit on Massdrop since the beginning. However I don't think they are a stock item in the PMK store, at least not as a full set.

Yeah not as a full set unfortunately. But if all you're going for is the Infinity hacker layout, you can build the full set by buying blank key packs from them. If you want a more standard layout though (namely 1.25u and 2.25u keys), then you will be missing pieces.

[njbair]

Yep, they've been a part of the Infinity kit on Massdrop since the beginning. However I don't think they are a stock item in the PMK store, at least not as a full set.

Yeah not as a full set unfortunately. But if all you're going for is the Infinity hacker layout, you can build the full set by buying blank key packs from them. If you want a more standard layout though (namely 1.25u and 2.25u keys), then you will be missing pieces.

What about the 6U spacebar? That's not in stock, is it?

[spanyam]

Yep, they've been a part of the Infinity kit on Massdrop since the beginning. However I don't think they are a stock item in the PMK store, at least not as a full set.

Yeah not as a full set unfortunately. But if all you're going for is the Infinity hacker layout, you can build the full set by buying blank key packs from them. If you want a more standard layout though (namely 1.25u and 2.25u keys), then you will be missing pieces.

What about the 6U spacebar? That's not in stock, is it?

Oh yeah, that too. So I guess with the provided pieces in stock, it's not possible to build any full alps set.

[Blaise170]

Yep, they've been a part of the Infinity kit on Massdrop since the beginning. However I don't think they are a stock item in the PMK store, at least not as a full set.

Yeah not as a full set unfortunately. But if all you're going for is the Infinity hacker layout, you can build the full set by buying blank key packs from them. If you want a more standard layout though (namely 1.25u and 2.25u keys), then you will be missing pieces.

What about the 6U spacebar? That's not in stock, is it?

http://pimpmykeyboard.com/dcs-alps-mount-space-bar-pack-of-1/
http://pimpmykeyboard.com/dsa-alps-mount-space-bar-pack-of-1/

[spanyam]

http://pimpmykeyboard.com/dcs-alps-mount-space-bar-pack-of-1/
http://pimpmykeyboard.com/dsa-alps-mount-space-bar-pack-of-1/

Oooh, I didn't realize they had multiple size options on the DCS spacebar, or that 6u was the size of their DSA spacebar! So, given all this, one can construct a full ALPS DSA set (infinity hacker layout or hhkb layout) with these:

http://pimpmykeyboard.com/dsa-alps-mount-space-bar-pack-of-1/
http://pimpmykeyboard.com/dsa-alps-mount-1-75-space-pack-of-4/
http://pimpmykeyboard.com/dsa-alps-mount-1-5-space-pack-of-4/
http://pimpmykeyboard.com/dsa-alps-mount-1-space-pack-of-10/
http://pimpmykeyboard.com/dsa-alps-mount-2-space-pack-of-4/

You'll be limited to black for a few of them, but overall not bad, given that they're decent PBT.

[Blaise170]

I know some people were asking about the stuff I was preparing to sell, including group 1 of my Japanese stuff. If interested, look here: http://www.ebay.com/sch/blaise170/m.html?_nkw=&_armrs=1&_ipg=&_from=

[sean]

I know some people were asking about the stuff I was preparing to sell, including group 1 of my Japanese stuff. If interested, look here: http://www.ebay.com/sch/blaise170/m.html?_nkw=&_armrs=1&_ipg=&_from=

That Lucky Board 7 looks awesome. glws!

[Venatorious]

Just got meself a LE-2014, I like it but I like my newly acquired Omnikey and Acer board more(pics coming soon)

It is super banana edition, although the flash might hide it a little. 

I like the LE logo very much, although I wish it were the more blueish one. 

The caps were really dirty, and you can really feel the difference when blue alps is dirty and when its clean. 

Should I have used a NSFW tag on that one?

After cleaning, you can really see the yellowing on the caps in this picture.

All done! I also cleaned some of the switches and they feel much better now.

[spanyam]

All done! I also cleaned some of the switches and they feel much better now.

Awesome! Any special procedure involved in cleaning ALPS switches?

[Venatorious]

Just make sure you clean every part of the switch really.  The slider and inner housing is the most important part.

[Mattr567]

Found this on ebay, uses some type of Cream Alps switch, may be SKCM but uses a Alps lock switch that's for sure. Thin, but black Apple style caps. http://www.ebay.com/itm/291719528189

Would look cool on a AEK.