Alps Appreciation Thread

[dante]

Has anyone ever posed the question that if Zeal can get Gateron to make Zealios - maybe Matias could make Blue Alps?  I'm sure it's not a fair comparison.

Unfortunately no one wants to touch complex alps with a 10' pole due to the number of pieces in the switch plate (6 i believe).

What about making the pieces separately and let the individual assemble the switch themselves?  Granted it's probably a tremendous pain in the ass but would give access to brand new Blue Alps...

[emdude]

If it's SKCM Blue that you want in particular too, then you'd also have to recreate the switch housing, spring, click leaf, and most importantly the same dry lubricant (or at least as close an approximation as possible).

IIRC, all of these things were different even from the switch that superseded it, SKCM White.  I personally would not care about some variation in a new SKCM/SKCL line as long as the switchplate and lubricant were reasonably reproduced.

[E3E]

The Leading Edge that I just sold has wildly inconsistent coloring. Some of them are closer to a teal color while others are closer to a navy color.

My Acer KB101A has that as well. Some really pale sliders and some vivid ones and some in between. My Focus FK-555 and FAME TH-5539 both have very vivid sliders though. When SKCM Blue switches are nice and vivid like that, they're quite pretty. <3

There are some colors I've never seen faded like either brown slider color (SKCL and SKCM are the same shade), and SKCL Green. 

If I were to rate the switch sliders in terms of the prettiest looking ones. It'd be SKCM Green (pine), vivid SKCM Blue, and then I think SKCM Orange. Beyond that, it's a toss-up. Maybe SKCM Amber would be next.

[chyros]

I think if it were marginally doable, Matias would probably have gone for an SKCM clone in the first place xD .

[emdude]

Well, he had the opportunity to do it..  I'm pretty sure Matias doesn't even have the original SKBM/SKBL tooling.

[jbondeson]

The reason for starting with simplified was almost certainly because the tooling already existed and could be utilized.

After investing what was necessary (molds, stamps, etc.) to revive SKC[M\L] switches the price per switch would make Zealios look like a bargain.  )

[emdude]

If more people found that Alps switches are far superior to Cherries, then the cost of new tooling could be recouped and they would become the new king of mechanical keyboards (if only)! 

[E3E]

The reason for starting with simplified was almost certainly because the tooling already existed and could be utilized.

After investing what was necessary (molds, stamps, etc.) to revive SKC[M\L] switches the price per switch would make Zealios look like a bargain.  )

I also agree that a full blown SKCM/L reproduction would be very unlikely. You can easily restore old switches with switch plates from other less desirable or even incompatible switches (SKCL Compact, SKCC) if you're so inclined. I have quite a bit of spare switch plates thanks to the SCKL Compacts I have.

Top housings can easily be replaced by using any pine top housing, SKCM White, SKCM Salmon, SKCM Orange, are all good choices. Finding replacements for SKCL tops would be more difficult since they're so specific and I can't say that any SKCL switch is worth scrapping for another, except maybe to replace housings on SKCL Brown or Cream.

If more people found that Alps switches are far superior to Cherries, then the cost of new tooling could be recouped and they would become the new king of mechanical keyboards (if only)! 

I don't think this is ever going to happen because the market is already heavily geared towards Cherry and Cherry compatible clones. It'd take something I couldn't even imagine to bring Alps back to life. Matias is the only one out there that's really hanging onto the switch design at all.

Plus, it's a very subjective thing. Not everyone thinks Alps is better than Cherry.

I will say that most people here are far more knowledgeable on Cherry MX related topics than they are on Alps. The amount of misinformation I've seen spread in the past has been ridiculous considering how many people fact check things with Cherry MX.

[emdude]

You are certainly right about the subjective part, I was perhaps being a bit hyperbolic but I have very strong feelings about Alps. )

Well, I think this discussion really highlights the relative inaccessibility of Alps, with the rarity of the better switches, their vulnerability to dust, the difficulty of sourcing things like key caps, etc.  The dominance of Cherry is very understandable, if a bit unfortunate.

Some days I am half tempted to give up on Alps completely, but they are just so darn wonderful; nothing like them today, in my opinion.  I don't mean any disrespect to Matias either, what he is doing is very commendable.

[Mattr567]

SKCM/SKCL reproductions would be insane. Although it would cost Matias a ton and hes not making a ton already with his current lineup. We would need some real enthusiasm to get that. Get companies like Coolermaster or Corsair to offer such a option. That would open the eyes to the average person a ton.

Mattr it's awesome seeing you clean up the switches because like chyros, the prospect of trying to get boards from TaoBao AND cleaning these switches up is insane to me lol. Glad you guys have been able to scoop so much SKCM/SKCL goodness.

I wonder though if it's time to get people at least trying out Orange SKCM, Salmon SKCM, and Dampened Cream SKCM. I really like Orange and Dampened Cream...and Click-modded Orange are nice. And they're a bit easier to find if you still want that vintage vibe. Diversity is always nice.

Lol it is a lot of work but i'm saving so much money instead of just paying the SKCM Blue price. Here is the current state of my SKCM Blues. I had to go the extra mile by removing all the switch plates and soaking/washing the case tops and bottoms. Now all the other parts are waiting until I get some lube. With the few I put together fully cleaned w/ the parched sliders they don't feel that horrible imo. Its lacking that snappy feel somewhat but comparable to SKCM White for sure. A light lube will make them perfectly snappy and smooth


They will get a chance soon to try those plus more w/ my switch tester. Have a lot of Alps and others as well.

[Blaise170]

Gaote actually makes Matias' switches, so it's possible since they make a wide variety of electrical switches (including their own Gaote-branded MX clones and Outemu).

[Dokyun]

I don't think this is ever going to happen because the market is already heavily geared towards Cherry and Cherry compatible clones.

Yeah, basically this. I feel like even a conceited effort by the community to do a short run of faithful SKCM clones would run into the issue of justifying the cost vs interest. Nothing's going to turn back Cherry being in the right place at the right time to take advantage of the exploding interest in mechanical keyboards.

As it stands, the subjective "feel" of a switch is not much of a marketable asset. OEMs are generally only interested in something that's not Cherry or a Cherry clone if there's some sort of numbers game they can play. True, these aren't Cherry switches, but they last 10 TRILLION keystrokes!!!!! And even then they've probably got Cherry comparable stems. If anyone major was ever going to make a run with say, Matias switches, it would've happened already.

[Blaise170]

I don't think it's out of the realm of possibility. Remember that the reason a lot of people buy Cherry/clones is simply convenience. I know that when I first got into mechs the only two switches I saw that were readily available was Cherry and Kailh. Sure, a lot of clones have come out now, but that's also a matter of Cherry's patent expiring at a time that mechs were becoming wildly popular. If a run of switches came out that were faithful recreations of Blue Alps, I'm willing to bet that they could become popular enough to actually warrant more runs. Look at Zealios; while they are another MX clone, they are succeeding because of the keyfeel, even if it is subjective.

[Hak Foo]

I'm sort of waiting to see what happens with the i-Rocks "It's sort of like ALPS" switches.  Since they're RGB designed and MX-compatible, that's two major hurdles out of the box to selling them to the gamer crowd.

[Blaise170]

I'd love to see the iROCKS be successful but are they Alps pin compatible? Also they will need to feel quite nice for anyone to really care about them. As it is, Matias has very nice switches out but even they aren't really taken seriously (most likely because no backlighting is for n00bs).

[emdude]

That's the ticket right there, you start with recreating the SKCL line of switches and market them as being a zillion times smoother than MX Reds and will guaranteed net you 300% more 360 no-scope headshots, stick in tons of LEDs while you're at it, and gamers will eat it up.

[need]

I believe iRocks will be smashing it, as the guy is a massive ALPS fanboy himself.

[emdude]

Ah yeah, the guy behind alps.tw is a part of it, isn't he?

I hope they will fit into existing Alps PCBs, the switches appear to have two extra pins that seem to be for PCB mounting?  I hope they are removable if that's the case.

If they really end up being great, I will definitely throw my money in for some switches.  We'll see.

[klennkellon]

how expensive were the original ALPS switches compared to Cherry at the time?

Were ALPS boards generally cheaper or more expensive when they were being sold?

[jacobolus]

The prices of SKCM and MX were roughly comparable, I think. Both were cheaper than IBM keyboards, but more expensive than e.g. SMK or Hi-Tek.

[chyros]

how expensive were the original ALPS switches compared to Cherry at the time?

Were ALPS boards generally cheaper or more expensive when they were being sold?

Cheaper.

1992:
G80-1000: $110
G80-3000: $105
Alps MDS-101: $85
Chicony 5181: $50
OmniKey 101: $89

[jacobolus]

Was Alps MDS-101 a bigfoot keyboard, or some crap flimsy thing?

For a better price comparison, I think you should in the ~1988 range. By early 90s lots of vendors were already cutting costs aggressively.

[chyros]

Was Alps MDS-101 a bigfoot keyboard, or some crap flimsy thing?

For a better price comparison, I think you should in the ~1988 range. By early 90s lots of vendors were already cutting costs aggressively.

It's a wave board actually, so not a great comparison come to think of it.

These are just what I found in a catalog. I don't have a 1988 catalog unfortunately xD .

[klennkellon]

how expensive were the original ALPS switches compared to Cherry at the time?

Were ALPS boards generally cheaper or more expensive when they were being sold?

Cheaper.

1992:
G80-1000: $110
G80-3000: $105
Alps MDS-101: $85
Chicony 5181: $50
OmniKey 101: $89

Neato, are those prices adjusted or were those the prices at the time?

[zombimuncha]

I guess Matias is busy finishing off his thick PBT caps, and his matching 60% keyboard, but once (if?) those hit the market I think we might see another resurgence in interest in Alps in general. And probably another peak-blue-alps scenario. He does seem to lurch from one crazy moonshot project to the next (Half Keyboard, Tactile Pro 1, Alps clone switches, Ergo Pro, thick PBT Alps keycaps) so maybe he'll want a new project when the caps are done, and maybe that project might be new complicated switch plates and switch top housings to match, to retrofit into his existing switches. Maybe.

Assume for a second that I have no earthly clue about 3D printing, or about complicated Alps switch plates (a safe assumption!) Is there enough precision in 3D printing yet to make the plastic bits of those switch plates? What about smoothness and durability? Do they matter in a switch plate? Is the slider the only moving non-metal part? If you use an existing Matias slider, and 3D print your own switch plate, and a switch top housing that it will fit in. Sounds like a fun project but I have no idea if any of it is even feasible.

[chyros]

how expensive were the original ALPS switches compared to Cherry at the time?

Were ALPS boards generally cheaper or more expensive when they were being sold?

Cheaper.

1992:
G80-1000: $110
G80-3000: $105
Alps MDS-101: $85
Chicony 5181: $50
OmniKey 101: $89

Neato, are those prices adjusted or were those the prices at the time?

At the time. By today's values it would be ca. 1.7 times that.

[Wingpad]

The other day I got an Orange Alps keyboard like this one but yours is in far better condition, the plate from mine is so rusty and all the sliders have pretty severe wear marks on them. I was really hoping they'd be smoother than salmon/pink Alps but they're in such poor condition that the salmon/pink alps are actually smoother I would have to do a lot of work if I wanted to make them viable for a project.

I am going to do a complete take-apart soon and want a good lube. I am considering this DuPont unless something better comes along:

So I finally got around to revisiting the messed up Orange switches and testing the DuPont lubrication. Lubing the sliders, top housing, click plates and the switch plates of cleaned switches seems to yield the best results. The switches are much smoother and no longer feel as scratchy, some of these formerly-tactile switches are now quasi-clicky, though, simply because the click plates have been bent out of shape over time. Sometime over the weekend I will try cleaning a few of the dirty Taobao blues and I will report back on what happens when I lube them in a similar fashion.

Oh, Wingpad, you must've missed the peak of the Alps hype. It's already tanked quite a bit since then, but boards were regularly going for over $200 with peaks at $400 or so.  We're not seeing those prices at the moment, but I'm sure something in the community will flare up Alps prices again. Maybe SPRiT's Alps spring release.

I guess Matias is busy finishing off his thick PBT caps, and his matching 60% keyboard, but once (if?) those hit the market I think we might see another resurgence in interest in Alps in general. And probably another peak-blue-alps scenario.

Dang, I was basing my statement on a board that recently sold for over $300 on eBay but I guess that's another matter entirely. I hope we don't hit another peak-blue-alps scenario anytime soon... I just finished building my first board with them today. I guess I really didn't realize the difference between blue alps and mx greens til' I did a side-by-side comparison. Goodness gracious, these things make my mx greens feel like children's toys and it's hilarious

[alh84001]

some of these formerly-tactile switches are now quasi-clicky

Is the click happening on the up stroke? At my limited time doing reassembly of orange alps, I found that sometimes the switch would exhibit this kind of click, and if I reassembled it again (or five more times sometimes ), everything would fall in place, and it would go back to being just tactile.

[Mattr567]

I am going to do a complete take-apart soon and want a good lube. I am considering this DuPont unless something better comes along:

So I finally got around to revisiting the messed up Orange switches and testing the DuPont lubrication. Lubing the sliders, top housing, click plates and the switch plates of cleaned switches seems to yield the best results. The switches are much smoother and no longer feel as scratchy, some of these formerly-tactile switches are now quasi-clicky, though, simply because the click plates have been bent out of shape over time. Sometime over the weekend I will try cleaning a few of the dirty Taobao blues and I will report back on what happens when I lube them in a similar fashion.

Interesting. I was only planning to do the sliders like the factory. Too much lube might remove the click. Plus using that much could affect the switch more over time. What DuPont lube did you use?

[chyros]

I guess I really didn't realize the difference between blue alps and mx greens til' I did a side-by-side comparison. Goodness gracious, these things make my mx greens feel like children's toys and it's hilarious

Haha yeah the contrast it pretty stark xD . Welcome to the brotherhood! ;p

[fohat.digs]

So I finally got around to revisiting the messed up Orange switches and testing the DuPont lubrication.

What DuPont lube did you use?

This thread fills up quickly. Are we still talking about the one I showed in #2118? I was going to squirt it in a little dish and paint it on.

[dante]

Do you think Matias ever reads a thread like this and says to himself ****!!!  My plan was for everyone to abandon vintage and buy MY stuff.

[mrbishop]

i'm just going to leave this here.
 

[Wingpad]

Is the click happening on the up stroke? At my limited time doing reassembly of orange alps, I found that sometimes the switch would exhibit this kind of click, and if I reassembled it again (or five more times sometimes ), everything would fall in place, and it would go back to being just tactile.

Yeah, it's on the upstroke OK so I will look into this. Thanks for the advice!

Interesting. I was only planning to do the sliders like the factory. Too much lube might remove the click. Plus using that much could affect the switch more over time.

I only hit the areas where the slider touches the various parts of the switch and lightly painted it on at that. My orange switches are still "clicky" (when they shouldn't be) so I would imagine that means that the Blues will remain clicky (like they should be) after lubing/cleaning. I am not sure of the long-term effects of this lube on the switch, it worries me a bit too but I will have to keep an eye on them. Letting them sit for a day has had positive results and they feel smoother already.

This thread fills up quickly. Are we still talking about the one I showed in #2118? I was going to squirt it in a little dish and paint it on.

Yeah it was the lube you showed in #2118, that's what I did as well.

[E3E]

I am going to do a complete take-apart soon and want a good lube. I am considering this DuPont unless something better comes along:

So I finally got around to revisiting the messed up Orange switches and testing the DuPont lubrication. Lubing the sliders, top housing, click plates and the switch plates of cleaned switches seems to yield the best results. The switches are much smoother and no longer feel as scratchy, some of these formerly-tactile switches are now quasi-clicky, though, simply because the click plates have been bent out of shape over time. Sometime over the weekend I will try cleaning a few of the dirty Taobao blues and I will report back on what happens when I lube them in a similar fashion.

Interesting. I was only planning to do the sliders like the factory. Too much lube might remove the click. Plus using that much could affect the switch more over time. What DuPont lube did you use?

I certainly wouldn't lube the leaves, or if so, maybe only the arc of the leaf that contacts the slider for tactility, and that's only if one would want reduced tactility. I'd just lube the slider tabs that are typically lubed by Alps and the top housing since as we've found, the top housing is very essential to the feel of an Alps switch, creating huge differences between pine and bamboo housings, and given the fact that a bamboo switch with a pine housing will feel exactly like its pine counterparts.

I wouldn't lube the contact leaf spring (but it wouldn't hurt, since the contacts are contained) or the leaves, myself.  Maybe an SKCM Brown leaf to see if it'd lighten the resistance at all, but eh.

In general, I don't like lubing Alps if they're in good condition. Sure, if you're restoring them, by all means; f they're that bad, do all you can to bring them back up to snuff, but I wouldn't touch switches that are in good condition. I would, however, lube the return springs on pingy linear switches though. I don't like Alps spring ping very much for the most part, so I've done that for every linear build I've made. Blues ping as well, but it's much less noticeable.

One interesting effect I had happen when I was cleaning and restoring my Acer KB101A, was that the click leaves in the SKCM Blues became mute after using a bit of alcohol to clean the grime between the rows and columns on the plate. Switches weren't dirty at all, I should add.

The isopropanol must've seeped into the switches and caused that effect. However, once it evaporated, everything was all good. It was 99% so it didn't take too long nor have too much risk of corroding anything, I think.

[Hak Foo]

Do you think Matias ever reads a thread like this and says to himself ****!!!  My plan was for everyone to abandon vintage and buy MY stuff.

Personally, I'd still recommend Matias switches as the no-drama alternative.  There's no "Attempt to scavenge together sufficient switches and find a few broken or unfixable".  There's no "layout which was great in 1988 but not today" issue if you buy a whole board.

[Mattr567]

I am going to do a complete take-apart soon and want a good lube. I am considering this DuPont unless something better comes along:

So I finally got around to revisiting the messed up Orange switches and testing the DuPont lubrication. Lubing the sliders, top housing, click plates and the switch plates of cleaned switches seems to yield the best results. The switches are much smoother and no longer feel as scratchy, some of these formerly-tactile switches are now quasi-clicky, though, simply because the click plates have been bent out of shape over time. Sometime over the weekend I will try cleaning a few of the dirty Taobao blues and I will report back on what happens when I lube them in a similar fashion.

Interesting. I was only planning to do the sliders like the factory. Too much lube might remove the click. Plus using that much could affect the switch more over time. What DuPont lube did you use?

I certainly wouldn't lube the leaves, or if so, maybe only the arc of the leaf that contacts the slider for tactility, and that's only if one would want reduced tactility. I'd just lube the slider tabs that are typically lubed by Alps and the top housing since as we've found, the top housing is very essential to the feel of an Alps switch, creating huge differences between pine and bamboo housings, and given the fact that a bamboo switch with a pine housing will feel exactly like its pine counterparts.

I wouldn't lube the contact leaf spring (but it wouldn't hurt, since the contacts are contained) or the leaves, myself.  Maybe an SKCM Brown leaf to see if it'd lighten the resistance at all, but eh.

In general, I don't like lubing Alps if they're in good condition. Sure, if you're restoring them, by all means; f they're that bad, do all you can to bring them back up to snuff, but I wouldn't touch switches that are in good condition. I would, however, lube the return springs on pingy linear switches though. I don't like Alps spring ping very much for the most part, so I've done that for every linear build I've made. Blues ping as well, but it's much less noticeable.

One interesting effect I had happen when I was cleaning and restoring my Acer KB101A, was that the click leaves in the SKCM Blues became mute after using a bit of alcohol to clean the grime between the rows and columns on the plate. Switches weren't dirty at all, I should add.

The isopropanol must've seeped into the switches and caused that effect. However, once it evaporated, everything was all good. It was 99% so it didn't take too long nor have too much risk of corroding anything, I think.

I'll do the top housing and the sliders then That should make them good again. Need to do the top housings on my SKCL Greens too actually. Will use that Dupont lube.

[Mattr567]

Would swapping my NeXT w/ SKCM Blue be a good idea you think?

[Wingpad]

I certainly wouldn't lube the leaves, or if so, maybe only the arc of the leaf that contacts the slider for tactility, and that's only if one would want reduced tactility. I'd just lube the slider tabs that are typically lubed by Alps and the top housing since as we've found, the top housing is very essential to the feel of an Alps switch, creating huge differences between pine and bamboo housings, and given the fact that a bamboo switch with a pine housing will feel exactly like its pine counterparts.

I wouldn't lube the contact leaf spring (but it wouldn't hurt, since the contacts are contained) or the leaves, myself.  Maybe an SKCM Brown leaf to see if it'd lighten the resistance at all, but eh.

I don't think that I'll do it for my actual blue alps, I am considering these orange alps to be a "practice round" of sorts more than anything else. And, yeah, I only lubed where the arcs touch the slider. Noob question but what are you referring to as the slider tabs? I thought I knew but now I am a bit confused, haha.

Would swapping my NeXT w/ SKCM Blue be a good idea you think?

I think it would certainly be an interesting idea, the layout of the NeXT boards would give you just about all of the modern keys you would want, albeit in strange places. Would you be keeping the stock PCB or hand wiring it?

[E3E]

Would swapping my NeXT w/ SKCM Blue be a good idea you think?

If you get a NeXT converter, then definitely. Use the neat tactile creams for a custom build or sell them. 

Not only would it fit well with the board because of its doubleshots, but the switches would fit the all black aesthetic quite nicely too. The build of the case would also likely have some nice acoustics with SKCM Blues.

I don't think that I'll do it for my actual blue alps, I am considering these orange alps to be a "practice round" of sorts more than anything else. As for the bit about the pine/bamboo switches I really need to get my hands on a few to try them. Sounds like I am missing an awesome switch. And, yeah, all that I lubed were the arcs touching the slider. Noob question but what are you referring to as the slider tabs?

Oh, the little part on the slider where the square cut out is, on the bottom side--it's the part that meets the contact.

Here's the picture:



On factory-lubed switches, you usually see two streaks on either side of that cut out. I'm thinking that's where the original lube was applied.

[Mattr567]

Would swapping my NeXT w/ SKCM Blue be a good idea you think?

I think it would certainly be an interesting idea, the layout of the NeXT boards would give you just about all of the modern keys you would want, albeit in strange places. Would you be keeping the stock PCB or hand wiring it?

Stock PCB + Hasu's converter

Would swapping my NeXT w/ SKCM Blue be a good idea you think?

If you get a NeXT converter, then definitely. Use the neat tactile creams for a custom build or sell them. 

Not only would it fit well with the board because of its doubleshots, but the switches would fit the all black aesthetic quite nicely too. The build of the case would also likely have some nice acoustics with SKCM Blues.

I don't think that I'll do it for my actual blue alps, I am considering these orange alps to be a "practice round" of sorts more than anything else. As for the bit about the pine/bamboo switches I really need to get my hands on a few to try them. Sounds like I am missing an awesome switch. And, yeah, all that I lubed were the arcs touching the slider. Noob question but what are you referring to as the slider tabs?

Oh, the little part on the slider where the square cut out is, on the bottom side--it's the part that meets the contact.

Here's the picture:

Show Image

On factory-lubed switches, you usually see two streaks on either side of that cut out. I'm thinking that's where the original lube was applied.

Cool, I will after I get a converter. I do like the appeal of a blacked out SKCM Blue board. Also I think i'll throw the sphericals onto the V60.

The SKCL Greens from the Mutistation have been lubed in the same fashion. The ones from my former Zenith were still lubed but missing the streaks.

[Blaise170]

If you do swap your NeXT be careful since mine somehow stopped working after the fact.

[Mattr567]

If you do swap your NeXT be careful since mine somehow stopped working after the fact.

Oh yea I remember you said that earlier. That's really weird, maybe a fluke or a solder mistake. Will do

[henz]

Took a while,  but here it is:

LZ-FE with blue alps.

[E3E]

Took a while,  but here it is:

LZ-FE with blue alps.

Show Image

Interesting blue and yellow colors. Where'd you get the space bar from, henz?

[klennkellon]

Took a while,  but here it is:

LZ-FE with blue alps.

Show Image

Interesting blue and yellow colors. Where'd you get the space bar from, henz?

You can make your own, let a spacebar sit in a tanning bed for a few hours.

[E3E]

Took a while,  but here it is:

LZ-FE with blue alps.

Show Image

Interesting blue and yellow colors. Where'd you get the space bar from, henz?

You can make your own, let a spacebar sit in a tanning bed for a few hours.

Hahaha, wow. I didn't even think of that! Henz, you incorporated yellowing into your color coordination? YOU SLY DOG   _{though it probably wasn't exactly intentional}

[alh84001]

There was a yellowed (browned?) M0116J on auction earlier today. http://page24.auctions.yahoo.co.jp/jp/auction/q121728290#enlargeimg

I imagine a lot of nice combinations could be done there

[duhhey]

Took a while,  but here it is:

LZ-FE with blue alps.

Show Image

Wow beautiful board!

[henz]

Took a while,  but here it is:

LZ-FE with blue alps.

Show Image

Interesting blue and yellow colors. Where'd you get the space bar from, henz?

You can make your own, let a spacebar sit in a tanning bed for a few hours.

Hahaha, wow. I didn't even think of that! Henz, you incorporated yellowing into your color coordination? YOU SLY DOG   _{though it probably wasn't exactly intentional}

I like yellowed stuff, dont know why people keep insisting on retrobrighting. Cant say it was intentional, that spacebar and caps were the only things that i own that would fit :) the spacebar is cool,  but i wouldn't mind switching the caps lock.

There was a yellowed (browned?) M0116J on auction earlier today. http://page24.auctions.yahoo.co.jp/jp/auction/q121728290#enlargeimg

I imagine a lot of nice combinations could be done there :)

I also have a similar one =)

Took a while,  but here it is:

LZ-FE with blue alps.

Show Image

Wow beautiful board!

Thanks, had to run a gb to get it the way i wanted =)