Model M non-required bolts/rivets

[Aer Fixus]

In regards to my 60% M project, I don't want to have borders like Hasu's Happy Buckling Spring: http://geekhack.org/index.php?topic=29483.0
I'd like to have as small a border as possible. Maybe even as small as a Poker's borders. The great thing is that I can actually do this. I've planned it out quite a lot and I'm pretty sure I can make it that small, but in order to do it, I have to leave out 5 bolts on the forward edge of the keyboard. They don't look vital, but they might be and that's what I'm here to find out.

My question: Do I need these bolts for function?

Unless someone knows for sure that this won't work, I'll probably do it anyway and find out for the sake of the community. I'm mostly looking for what to expect. The people who probably know are those who have purchased used Model Ms missing lots of rivets. If all of the ones on the forward edge were broken and the bottom row of keys still worked, that's exactly what I need to know.

thanks, ahead of time!

[anotherbaal]

They are necessary. Without them, the keys won't register or double register or something weird. I actually tightened my bolts too much when I was bolt modding and had some keys repeatedly getting registered. BUT you dont have to bolt down ALL of them. I actually have about 13 bolts holding down. Most important bolts are the middle of the plate ones. I have none bolted on my front lip of the board.

[fohat.digs]

My question: Do I need these bolts for function?

No, they are not needed.

There is a school of thought of "the more the better" but those along the front are problematic. I have used self-tapping screws there, sometimes, because there are plastic ridges or fins that would have interfered with the nuts, and I have also clipped bits away to accommodate nuts.

Having said that, the front does need to be stabilized, and it is usually not an issue because the case shell clamps itself down tight at that point.

Perhaps you can force some firm padding into that area to keep the front edge firmly in place.

[Aer Fixus]

They are necessary. Without them, the keys won't register or double register or something weird. I actually tightened my bolts too much when I was bolt modding and had some keys repeatedly getting registered. BUT you dont have to bolt down ALL of them. I actually have about 13 bolts holding down. Most important bolts are the middle of the plate ones. I have none bolted on my front lip of the board.

So are you saying that you have a functional board with the edge not bolted or is your board non-functional because you haven't bolted down the front edge?

Perhaps you can force some firm padding into that area to keep the front edge firmly in place.

Thanks. I'll try this if I stumble upon any troubles.

[fohat.digs]

So are you saying that you have a functional board with the edge not bolted or is your board non-functional because you haven't bolted down the front edge?

The board should work fine without the front row of bolts, and in fact, I think that he was trying to say that he does not use them himself.

That does leave a fairly large strip "unsecured" along the bottom so it might be worthwhile to rig something to keep it snug.

And, of course, you can put additional bolts anywhere you want. Just make sure that you do not penetrate any electrical traces, and that you do not over-tighten them to cause any of the pieces to flex in unnatural ways.

[anotherbaal]

Ah sorry for the confusion. What I meant to say is, you DONT need to bolt down the front lip for functionality. Mine is functional. Even though mine is encased in the original shell, it worked fine without the front lip bolts and without the support of the shell while I was testing.

[Aer Fixus]

So are you saying that you have a functional board with the edge not bolted or is your board non-functional because you haven't bolted down the front edge?

The board should work fine without the front row of bolts, and in fact, I think that he was trying to say that he does not use them himself.

That does leave a fairly large strip "unsecured" along the bottom so it might be worthwhile to rig something to keep it snug.

And, of course, you can put additional bolts anywhere you want. Just make sure that you do not penetrate any electrical traces, and that you do not over-tighten them to cause any of the pieces to flex in unnatural ways.

Ah sorry for the confusion. What I meant to say is, you DONT need to bolt down the front lip for functionality. Mine is functional. Even though mine is encased in the original shell, it worked fine without the front lip bolts and without the support of the shell while I was testing.

Thanks for clearing that up.

Looking at it, the only problem I can see is that I may actually need to hold the plastic away from the board using a spacer of some sort because it looks like I'll be trimming some important plastic away when I cut it down to size. That shouldn't be too hard, maybe just some rubber or hard plastic.

Breaking traces isn't that big of a deal, especially considering that I have to re-route all of the traces anyway.

[fohat.digs]

I'll be trimming some important plastic away when I cut it down to size. That shouldn't be too hard, maybe just some rubber or hard plastic.

Small diameter rubber or plastic tubing is probably good for consistent pressure along a straight surface, since it will collapse evenly.