How manually to mod a plate to make switches openable

[AGmurdercore]

I already posted this in my thread about restoring and modding an old BW but i figured out that only a few people will see it there so i decided to make a new thread. (actually mister Photekq made me do it... )

So what is this all about? Well if you are on a budged but you want to have a plate that allows you to open the switches without the need to desolder them you need to figure out some cheap way to do it. When buying a pre-cut plate or getting one custom from the local CNC laser cutter is out of your pocket i have the solution for (most) of you! All you need is a plate for the board that you are gonna be using (ofc ), some spare time and this tool (or something similar, really every other file that is small enough and eats through the metal just fine will do the job!)

This is a file for sharping the chain of a chainsaw and i believe that they sell all around the word and everyone can buy one for relatively cheap.

So the technique is pretty damn simple you just take the file close to the edge (note that you have to grind the side "walls" not the top and the bottom once!). Watch out not the grind the top or the bottom wall, because it will make the switch "wobby", which is not a big deal to me, but for some people (that have the most sensitive hand in the word lol ) might be. Don't too hard when you grind!!! You don't have to be precise, just start out on a place where you can experiment (i started on the pause/break button) and see how it goes. You really don't have to make a big hole, at first i was amazed at how much you need to grind to make the switch openable. Just try it and see for yourself and i am sure that some of you might some up with a better technique to do this but still this one is ok i think

You can see here the result i was getting:



And this is my overall progress for the day:


As you can see it is not turning out even but it gets the job done, i can open the switch even when mounted on the plate. I am not really sure but what you see on the picture took me about one hour with switch testing on every whole, which is slowing the process a bit

Please if you have a comment/suggestion/critique feel free to share them

[Melvang]

Nice work.  I would just like to add a tip to extend the life of your file.  Do NOT try and file from the handle to the tip.  All files only cut when pushing away from you.  Even if it says "double cut", it will only cut in one direction.  When you drag the file back with pressure it will roll the cutting edges over and can/will ruin the file.  This is much more so on stainless and carbon steel plates vs aluminum plates.

Edit:  Changed some wording that I had backwards.

[AGmurdercore]

Nice work.  I would just like to add a tip to extend the life of your file.  Do NOT try and file from the tip to the handle.  All files only cut when pushing away from you.  Even if it says "double cut", it will only cut in one direction.  When you drag the file back with pressure it will roll the cutting edges over and can/will ruin the file.  This is much more so on stainless and carbon steel plates vs aluminum plates.

Wow this seems really helpful, thanks i didn't know that until now!

[Melvang]

Nice work.  I would just like to add a tip to extend the life of your file.  Do NOT try and file from the tip to the handle.  All files only cut when pushing away from you.  Even if it says "double cut", it will only cut in one direction.  When you drag the file back with pressure it will roll the cutting edges over and can/will ruin the file.  This is much more so on stainless and carbon steel plates vs aluminum plates.

Wow this seems really helpful, thanks i didn't know that until now!

Sorry,  I had to reverse some wording that I had backwards.  You do not file from the handle from the tip.  They cut when pushing away from you is correct.

[kolonelkadat]

All files only cut when pushing away from you.  Even if it says "double cut", it will only cut in one direction.

nope not quite. files only cut in one direction, BUT there are both push and draw files.

and just as an addendum, "Double cut" refers to the blade pattern on the file. IE the file itself was cut twice. single cut blades are shaped like // double cut are shaped like XX

[Melvang]

All files only cut when pushing away from you.  Even if it says "double cut", it will only cut in one direction.

nope not quite. files only cut in one direction, BUT there are both push and draw files.

and just as an addendum, "Double cut" refers to the blade pattern on the file. IE the file itself was cut twice. single cut blades are shaped like // double cut are shaped like XX

Show Image

Wow.  I stand corrected.  Although I will say I have been working with metals including aluminum, stainless, carbon steel, and a small amount of titanium and I have never come across a draw file.  Not saying they don't exist just saying that was where I was coming from.  But either way thanks for the info.

[AGmurdercore]

I like the information that you guys are posting here and i bet that there are other users who will find that info useful too. Btw looking at that picture above it reminded me to mention that you 1000% need to use a file for metal a.k.a the one the one with the fine cuts, not the one that look like grater

[SpAmRaY]

Just wondering if you ever complete this and how the plate is working out for you?

[AGmurdercore]

Just wondering if you ever complete this and how the plate is working out for you?

Sorry bro i haven't seen this post. The plate is not 100% complete because i wanted to film how i do it and you can see it here:

I will complete this plate in a few days now that i can film every step to show my progress to you guys

But from what i can tell the plate feels ok and i hope that it really will be ok

[SpAmRaY]

Thanks for the update!

[AGmurdercore]

Thanks for the update!

You are welcome bro, i hope that i will be able to post another update until the end of the week with the painted plate

[berserkfan]

Thanks for the update!

You are welcome bro, i hope that i will be able to post another update until the end of the week with the painted plate

AGMurdercore; I think this is a great idea on your part. but how long does it take to properly file down a full sized plate? If it takes 30 seconds per corner, it would be 0.5minutes x 4 corners x 104= over 3 hours of nonstop filing, right?

Not to mention, is your file even still alive/ usable after all that filing?

I am wondering whether attacking with a drill would be better. The main danger would be making the cuts too large.

[Honq]

Oh boy, today I took apart my QFR and was trying to do this with some random "stanley" brand file.

Takes way too long, going to have to look into the drill press option.

[Melvang]

Oh boy, today I took apart my QFR and was trying to do this with some random "stanley" brand file.

Takes way too long, going to have to look into the drill press option.

Drill press won't work.  Drill bits won't drill on the edge of anything.  It will require an endmill.  Trying to do this on a standard light-ish duty drill press typically found in a garage setting will tear up the lower bearing/bushing pretty quick.  I have seen 5/8" jacobs chuck shafts bent from someone trying to use a hole saw on the end of hand rail to cope it.  If you have a very heavy duty floor mount then I wouldn't be to afraid to try it but make sure you have the material clamped down VERY well.  Or use a mill/drill such as a Bridge Port if one is available. 

Short of this and the risk of tearing up expensive bearings I would recommend spending the money on a good file.  Nicholson used to be a good name in hand files when they were still US made.  A lot of them are made south of the border now and I can't speak for their quality anymore.

[berserkfan]

Oh boy, today I took apart my QFR and was trying to do this with some random "stanley" brand file.

Takes way too long, going to have to look into the drill press option.

Drill press won't work.  Drill bits won't drill on the edge of anything.  It will require an endmill.  Trying to do this on a standard light-ish duty drill press typically found in a garage setting will tear up the lower bearing/bushing pretty quick.  I have seen 5/8" jacobs chuck shafts bent from someone trying to use a hole saw on the end of hand rail to cope it.  If you have a very heavy duty floor mount then I wouldn't be to afraid to try it but make sure you have the material clamped down VERY well.  Or use a mill/drill such as a Bridge Port if one is available. 

Short of this and the risk of tearing up expensive bearings I would recommend spending the money on a good file.  Nicholson used to be a good name in hand files when they were still US made.  A lot of them are made south of the border now and I can't speak for their quality anymore.

Um, based on what you're saying, I think JDCarpe's $35 universal plate is sounding very, very attractive.

I can't stand the idea of doing exactly the same thing for 3 hours. 3 hours of filing, OMG. I'd pay $35 and have it be done with.

[jdcarpe]

Um, based on what you're saying, I think JDCarpe's $35 universal plate is sounding very, very attractive.

I can't stand the idea of doing exactly the same thing for 3 hours. 3 hours of filing, OMG. I'd pay $35 and have it be done with.

Either that, or just desolder the switches every time you need to change springs or stems.

[berserkfan]

Um, based on what you're saying, I think JDCarpe's $35 universal plate is sounding very, very attractive.

I can't stand the idea of doing exactly the same thing for 3 hours. 3 hours of filing, OMG. I'd pay $35 and have it be done with.

Either that, or just desolder the switches every time you need to change springs or stems.

JD, I have been watching your IC thread all the time now. This is one group buy I don't want to miss out. But that said, sadly even a universal plate can never be truly universal and I'm sure a lot of keyboard manufacturers (eg Deck, Cherry) are probably just that little bit too individualistic for their products to be suitable for the plate.

[berserkfan]

I saw your video, and am surprised. It takes you less than 10 seconds per corner to file a switch corner, am I right?

Have you ever tried dremeling instead?

What I think could make things faster, is actually to do the whole thing by eye. That way you don't interrupt your work to grab a switch, put it in, grab a screwdriver to open the switch, etc.

After finishing the whole thing, clean off all metal bits, put in all switches as though you want to solder already. But you don't bring the PCB over. Instead, start opening all switches. Once you have identified the places that need work you can remove the switches and concentrate on more filing.

Systematically doing everything should make things faster.

[AGmurdercore]

I think that it takes me a bit more then 10s for a corner, maybe something like 15 so a whole switch spot with 4 corners is about a minute or something. It can be faster but is not that bad imho, as i have said in the other thread i don't trust my dremel for precision so even that it will be faster with it i like to do it on hand.

[berserkfan]

I think that it takes me a bit more then 10s for a corner, maybe something like 15 so a whole switch spot with 4 corners is about a minute or something. It can be faster but is not that bad imho, as i have said in the other thread i don't trust my dremel for precision so even that it will be faster with it i like to do it on hand.

Murdercore,

I've never dremelled anything before so this is good advice and food for thought. I do own a dremel and was going to experiment with it this weekend on a hapless victim plate.

[AGmurdercore]

I think that it takes me a bit more then 10s for a corner, maybe something like 15 so a whole switch spot with 4 corners is about a minute or something. It can be faster but is not that bad imho, as i have said in the other thread i don't trust my dremel for precision so even that it will be faster with it i like to do it on hand.

Murdercore,

I've never dremelled anything before so this is good advice and food for thought. I do own a dremel and was going to experiment with it this weekend on a hapless victim plate.

Go ahead and try it for yourself, you might get lucky and save a lot of time if it turns out that you can use the dremel to mod the plate ^^

[berserkfan]

I think that it takes me a bit more then 10s for a corner, maybe something like 15 so a whole switch spot with 4 corners is about a minute or something. It can be faster but is not that bad imho, as i have said in the other thread i don't trust my dremel for precision so even that it will be faster with it i like to do it on hand.

Murdercore,

I've never dremelled anything before so this is good advice and food for thought. I do own a dremel and was going to experiment with it this weekend on a hapless victim plate.

Go ahead and try it for yourself, you might get lucky and save a lot of time if it turns out that you can use the dremel to mod the plate ^^

Haha, I never dare bet on luck.

I'm more than capable of doing irreversible damage to anything.

Fortunately dremel has small heads; there's not too much I can cut in one go.

[AGmurdercore]

I hope that you will be able to fix your plate just fine with no damage or anything like that.

And i am really glad that i was inspiration for you

[berserkfan]

I hope that you will be able to fix your plate just fine with no damage or anything like that.

And i am really glad that i was inspiration for you

Some bad puns here:

Ag! I've just murdered the core of my keyboard!

[AGmurdercore]

I hope that you will be able to fix your plate just fine with no damage or anything like that.

And i am really glad that i was inspiration for you

Some bad puns here:

Ag! I've just murdered the core of my keyboard!

Ahahaha you got me with this one