The Switches- 3 types of APS: plate mount, battleship pcb mount, square pcb mount
- All have the same weighting of 45g
- All have the same internal parts
- Pcb mount types have extra pins for stabilizing and alignment
I am just repeating myself but Snackthecat did a great job documenting them, please refer to his build log for more info.
The PCB1. Layout supports:- ISO + ANSI
- 1.75u Rshift
- AEK top row
- AEK + WKL bottom row
- 3 positions of capslock
2. Switch types supports:In order to support pcb mount APS, 10 extra holes are added for bolt modding, and this is also the focus of this build. Both Wingpad's and Snack's builds utilize plate mount APS, Leaf80 is built entirely with pcb mount APS. Please see picture below for the holes in question.
3. Building with battleship pcb mount APS:At this point I am fully committed with powder lubing so the snow flakes you see in these pictures are just PTFE powder, nothing extra harmful.
The further-spaced pins are just stabilizers so I solder only 1 of the 2, because too much effort
I use M2x8mm screws and nuts, the holes on the pcb could fit up to M3 screws. For spacer I use 3mm LED spacer in nylon.
The PlateThe plate was cut by Sendcutsend, they do amazing work if you live in mainland US.
-1.2mm thickness
- stainless steel
- hand drilling for countersunk screw holes.
- plate purposes: to mount stabilizers and top.
Plate is not for switch alignments and mounting, plate is for case alignment. Think of this as reversed-tray mount: instead of mounting to the bottom tray, you mount it to the plate, then the plate mounts to the top case.
Except for a few dog bone switch cutouts for extra alignment, all the cutouts are larger than the actual switches so the plate could be taken off easily.
Due to the mounting system of the Leaf80, this is the most amount of metal I could take away, if I take away anymore metal, flex will come into play and I dont want that.
Big thank to robotical for letting me borrow his stationary drill to countersunk the plate screws.
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Stabilizer problems:
PCB mount APS have taller bottom housings than the plate mount siblings, and they interfere with stabilizer bars.
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At this point I had 3 choices:
1. Use plate mount on long keys
2. Bend my own stabilizers with a u-shape in the middle, like cherry costar stabs
3. Shave the extruding parts on pcb mount APS
And I picked the third option because lazy