geekhack
geekhack Projects => Making Stuff Together! => Topic started by: Coin-op Adjutant on Wed, 03 September 2014, 18:39:26
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Been a while since I first poked my head in here, but I am happy to announce I now have my Model F XT up and running with a proper converter (and I could not be happier with it so far). Still looking at redoing the .hex file for redefining some keys (Scroll Lock -> Win key, anyone?) and the spacebar apparently still needs some industrial degreaser to get it totally clean, but hey, baby steps.
At the moment I'm waiting on a driver to come in so I can open this guy up and start tinkering with the innards, but the first thing on my agenda is to get the case off and sand down the front of the top metal plate and re-paint it, since that thing has tons of rust spots.
Problem is, I know nothing about what paints would work well for any part of this. For the inner plates, I'm thinking Fertan followed by Rustoleum as described in here: http://www.epiguru.com/2012/04/model-f-project-getting-rid-of-the-rust/ (http://www.epiguru.com/2012/04/model-f-project-getting-rid-of-the-rust/)
As for the case itself? Beats me. I'm guessing the front part of the case is plastic and the back part is a steel plate. Not sure what to use for this portion of the project. Any suggestions/comments? This one's going to be a many-part project, so anything helps at this point.
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From Fohat.digs' guide (http://geekhack.org/index.php?topic=37753.0)
Recommended paint options for case and internals
(http://i.imgur.com/Wt010.jpg)
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I refurbished an XT recently, including sanding and repainting the internal plates, replacing the foam layer, and installing a Teensy and Soarer's Converter.
For the paint, I used Rustoleum Universal Satin Black (primer and paint in one). I applied three light coats, with wet sanding (3M 400-grit wet/dry silicon carbide) in between coats, allowing 48 hours drying time for each coat. Before applying the first coat, I sanded down to the bare metal. For the foam layer, I used 1/8-inch silicone sponge. The foam was tight, and it took considerable pressure with a long bar clamp to get the plates to slide into place.
In any event, everything worked, and I am very pleased with the result. I smile every time I use the keyboard -- the notion that a 30-year-old PC keyboard could work with a brand new Mac Pro computer is some kind of sweet poetic justice.
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Thanks, AW, you saved me from having to dig through my directories for that photo.
Not much reason to prime if you are using Rustoleum, that is the premier product (they even make paint made to paint on top of existing rust to stop it from spreading!). But sand yours smooth and do try to keep it thin because the barrels fit pretty snug already. (And I think that glossy black is best for the bottom pan, just be careful when masking the label.)
Those plastic stabilizer tabs can be removed and put back but you need to be careful. (If you were modding something like an F-122 for modern keys it is a moot point, they will not be needed anyway.)
The plastic flanges out on the back side of the plate to hold them in. I use a small flat-head screwdriver slightly smaller than the hole in the plate (and not too sharp, if possible) which I seat into the depression in the plastic foot. Often they can simply be pushed out, or you might have to bump the screwdriver handle with the heel of your palm. If you break the flange off completely, you can still glue it back in place.
If you leave them in place during the rough stuff, I recommend enclosing them in masking tape to keep them safe.
As for the case shell, I have had good luck with the Dupli-Color ($8 per can at the auto parts store - enough to do at least 2 F-122s with several thin coats), but lots of people swear by the Fusion product made for plastic.