Author Topic: [GB] ZZ96 v2 r2 (replacements in progress) (Read 262324 times)

Gengarfan · « **Reply #200 on:** Fri, 22 April 2016, 11:26:54 »

Paid!

Butter · « **Reply #201 on:** Fri, 22 April 2016, 12:23:17 »

Paid, but it said it will take 3 to 4 days

QuickDelat · « **Reply #202 on:** Fri, 22 April 2016, 13:16:18 »

paid again, hopefully no paypal trouble this time!

Atredl · « **Reply #203 on:** Fri, 22 April 2016, 15:22:47 »

Sent payment. Hopefully it doesn't take too long to go through.

CornCha0s · « **Reply #204 on:** Fri, 22 April 2016, 15:38:30 »

Paid

Hope everything works out this time!

Pieminister · « **Reply #205 on:** Fri, 22 April 2016, 15:50:37 »

Paid my international order via paypal.

I am SO EXCITED

I got retro beige and cmyk to go on this - just have to decide on switches now.

Hopefully everything works out

kenshinjeff · « **Reply #206 on:** Fri, 22 April 2016, 19:45:14 »

Paidddd~~~~~~

longcat · « **Reply #207 on:** Sat, 23 April 2016, 10:50:19 »

Invoice Paid! So glad I got in on this round!

reggalicious · « **Reply #208 on:** Sat, 23 April 2016, 22:06:45 »

Just paid the invoice. Can't wait to put my GMK Hyperfuse on this puppy!

quantrix · « **Reply #209 on:** Sun, 24 April 2016, 15:32:19 »

I thought I researched everything about this GB but realizing now that I don't fully understand the stabilizer situation.

There is a choice between PCB or screw mounted stabilizers. I picked screw mounted because it sounds like they are more stable, but I realize now that screw mounted is the vintage method and on the GB list most people purchased PCB mounted. Are there any concerns to go with screw mounted, especially as a first build? I'm inclined to follow the herd at this point.

Also, are these Cherry or Costar style?

Thanks for your help

LunarisDream · « **Reply #210 on:** Sun, 24 April 2016, 18:40:58 »

Quote from: quantrix on Sun, 24 April 2016, 15:32:19

I thought I researched everything about this GB but realizing now that I don't fully understand the stabilizer situation.

There is a choice between PCB or screw mounted stabilizers. I picked screw mounted because it sounds like they are more stable, but I realize now that screw mounted is the vintage method and on the GB list most people purchased PCB mounted. Are there any concerns to go with screw mounted, especially as a first build? I'm inclined to follow the herd at this point.

Also, are these Cherry or Costar style?

Thanks for your help

Cherry. AFAIK, screw-mounted is more stable as there's no risk of the stabilizer snapping out while removing a keycap (which would be hell if you're using a plate, as you'd have to desolder every switch to reseat the stabilizer). Unfortunately, I've never used it myself. If you are concerned, you are welcome to change your choice to PCB-mount stabilizers via editing the response form.

boo · « **Reply #211 on:** Tue, 26 April 2016, 09:34:09 »

Does the PCB have the rgb lights already pre soldered or will it come as a separate strip like the previous buy?

gadzkun · « **Reply #212 on:** Tue, 26 April 2016, 10:06:51 »

Quote from: boo on Tue, 26 April 2016, 09:34:09

Does the PCB have the rgb lights already pre soldered or will it come as a separate strip like the previous buy?

LD has provide us a video v2 pcb at the first post

Quote from: LunarisDream on Mon, 21 March 2016, 06:26:00

Section for updates:

4/25/2016 (Beijing time)

There are 9 Dwolla requests pending and 4 Paypal invoices pending payment. I was able to successfully initiate withdrawal of the funds from all the paid Paypal invoices, so unless those get interrupted, we can assume that all of the international orders were able to go through successfully. Cue sigh of relief. Further international orders will have their invoices delayed until the current ones are paid off for the sake of fairness.

We still have 5-6 more days until the deadline to make payments, and I know some folks are still in the process of linking their Dwolla accounts or moving funds around to pay the invoices. So no pressure.

4/22/2016 (Beijing time)

All invoices/requests have been sent out. Looks like Dwolla takes up to 4 business days to process payments, so please try to get the payment resolved at your earliest convenience.

The deadline for payments is the last day of April. If you cannot make this date, please tell me. If you think you are going to be late, please tell me. If you want to back out, please tell me. If you haven't received an invoice... you get the idea.

You can check your order options here. They should be the same as what's on your invoice.

Sneak peek at the v2 PCB

AW YISS BLURRY LOW RES VIDEO TOO

Gotta head to bed for now. See you all in the morn (or evening).

Pieminister · « **Reply #213 on:** Tue, 26 April 2016, 13:07:21 »

Thank you for the update in the main post by the way!

Guys, speaking of LEDs, I want to hear what you guys have planned.

This board already comes with a good number of LEDs installed. Is there much worth in installing individual switch LEDs?

I was thinking of going all out with sip sockets + individual LEDs, but can I be arsed? Not sure how much it would add.

Elaeagnifolia · « **Reply #214 on:** Tue, 26 April 2016, 13:41:58 »

Quote from: Pieminister on Tue, 26 April 2016, 13:07:21

Thank you for the update in the main post by the way!

Guys, speaking of LEDs, I want to hear what you guys have planned.

This board already comes with a good number of LEDs installed. Is there much worth in installing individual switch LEDs?

I was thinking of going all out with sip sockets + individual LEDs, but can I be arsed? Not sure how much it would add.

I like the aesthetics of having LEDs, so usually if I can, I install in-switch LEDs. That statement isn't really helpful, but basically it's a personal preference thing. I don't think there's much worth of having them outside aesthetic value.

For sip sockets, being honest here, sip sockets are a PITA since you have to open up the switches and put them in. If you get the sip sockets that are still wrapped, you also have to spend time cutting them out. If the sip socket is too tall, I've read that you might have to do some dremel work too.

If you get the right sip sockets though, it's not very hard to do, it's just a very tedious process which you have to do for all 90-100 switches.

Having said that, it definitely makes life easier when you have a dead LED since you won't have to worry about desoldering the LED. For example, on one of my keyboards, I accidentally put the LED +/- the wrong way, but instead of having to desolder it, I just took the LED out of the sip socket, turned it around, and put it back in. I consider that definitely worth the cost and time of sip socketing. If you do go the in-switch LED route, go all out with sip sockets + LEDs.

Basically, in summary, go all or nothing. LEDs won't add much value except aesthetically, so I think it would be OK to leave it out if it's something you don't think you need. If you do go the LED route, I definitely think sip socketing is worth the time and money even though it's tedious.

For me, like I mentioned, I like having in-switch LEDs, so sip sockets + in-switch LEDs for me.

kawasaki161 · « **Reply #215 on:** Tue, 26 April 2016, 14:18:10 »

Quote from: Elaeagnifolia on Tue, 26 April 2016, 13:41:58

For sip sockets, being honest here, sip sockets are a PITA since you have to open up the switches and put them in

Why don't you just drill out the LED leg holes in the switches so that the sip sockets fit through? That way you don't have to open a single switch and are able to swap the switch without desoldering the sip sockets in case you have a chattering one. Once you got going drilling out the holes is a lot faster than opening up the switch and placing the sip sockets inside. You still have to use a LED in the final soldering process to ensure the alignment is in spec though.

Pieminister · « **Reply #216 on:** Tue, 26 April 2016, 14:21:51 »

One think that I am worried about because I haven't done a custom before - if I am using a plate and solder a switch wrong or an LED and I need to replace it - is it a major pain in the arse? Do i have to undo everything? I am tempted to go all out and risk it with sip sockets. Also no matter how much people try to dissuade me ... I really want MX white switches on this.

Elaeagnifolia · « **Reply #217 on:** Tue, 26 April 2016, 14:29:09 »

Quote from: kawasaki161 on Tue, 26 April 2016, 14:18:10

Quote from: Elaeagnifolia on Tue, 26 April 2016, 13:41:58
For sip sockets, being honest here, sip sockets are a PITA since you have to open up the switches and put them in

Why don't you just drill out the LED leg holes in the switches so that the sip sockets fit through? That way you don't have to open a single switch and are able to swap the switch without desoldering the sip sockets in case you have a chattering one. Once you got going drilling out the holes is a lot faster than opening up the switch and placing the sip sockets inside. You still have to use a LED in the final soldering process to ensure the alignment is in spec though.

Hmm, I never thought of that. For my last two projects, I had to open the switches anyway since I was swapping the springs / lubing the sliders, so it never occurred to me to just widen the LED leg holes. Definitely a more convenient and efficient route for those who don't have to open up their switches though, and as you mentioned, eases the process to replace a sip socket as well..

gadzkun · « **Reply #218 on:** Tue, 26 April 2016, 21:27:12 »

Quote from: kawasaki161 on Tue, 26 April 2016, 14:18:10

Quote from: Elaeagnifolia on Tue, 26 April 2016, 13:41:58
For sip sockets, being honest here, sip sockets are a PITA since you have to open up the switches and put them in

Why don't you just drill out the LED leg holes in the switches so that the sip sockets fit through? That way you don't have to open a single switch and are able to swap the switch without desoldering the sip sockets in case you have a chattering one. Once you got going drilling out the holes is a lot faster than opening up the switch and placing the sip sockets inside. You still have to use a LED in the final soldering process to ensure the alignment is in spec though.

we dont need to worry about chattering switch. since zz96 offer a plate with switch top removal.

btw at last i can pay the invoice, now im officially joined this GB

)

kenshinjeff · « **Reply #219 on:** Wed, 27 April 2016, 00:05:06 »

Quote from: Pieminister on Tue, 26 April 2016, 14:21:51

One think that I am worried about because I haven't done a custom before - if I am using a plate and solder a switch wrong or an LED and I need to replace it - is it a major pain in the arse? Do i have to undo everything? I am tempted to go all out and risk it with sip sockets. Also no matter how much people try to dissuade me ... I really want MX white switches on this.

Do you mean use a ~3MM drill to drill through the switch, if so, this is actually a really smart idea.

kawasaki161 · « **Reply #220 on:** Wed, 27 April 2016, 08:16:42 »

Quote from: kenshinjeff on Wed, 27 April 2016, 00:05:06

Quote from: Pieminister on Tue, 26 April 2016, 14:21:51
One think that I am worried about because I haven't done a custom before - if I am using a plate and solder a switch wrong or an LED and I need to replace it - is it a major pain in the arse? Do i have to undo everything? I am tempted to go all out and risk it with sip sockets. Also no matter how much people try to dissuade me ... I really want MX white switches on this.

Do you mean use a ~3MM drill to drill through the switch, if so, this is actually a really smart idea.

You text is not really in context with the quote, but I assume you are adressing me.

I actually used a 2mm drill and drilled through the LED-leg holes on the bottom-half of the switch (2.5mm are still okay for cherry switches (2mm max. for zealios though, I don't trust that plastic that much), never use 3mm, way too big and damages the little tabs that hold the switch in the plate). My sip sockets fit perfectly through that hole, so I can swap switches without desoldering the sip sockets again. If you are interested I can send you some pictures so you are 100% sure what I mean.

Pieminister · « **Reply #221 on:** Wed, 27 April 2016, 08:51:27 »

Quote from: kawasaki161 on Wed, 27 April 2016, 08:16:42

Quote from: kenshinjeff on Wed, 27 April 2016, 00:05:06
Quote from: Pieminister on Tue, 26 April 2016, 14:21:51
One think that I am worried about because I haven't done a custom before - if I am using a plate and solder a switch wrong or an LED and I need to replace it - is it a major pain in the arse? Do i have to undo everything? I am tempted to go all out and risk it with sip sockets. Also no matter how much people try to dissuade me ... I really want MX white switches on this.

Do you mean use a ~3MM drill to drill through the switch, if so, this is actually a really smart idea.

You text is not really in context with the quote, but I assume you are adressing me.

I actually used a 2mm drill and drilled through the LED-leg holes on the bottom-half of the switch (2.5mm are still okay for cherry switches (2mm max. for zealios though, I don't trust that plastic that much), never use 3mm, way too big and damages the little tabs that hold the switch in the plate). My sip sockets fit perfectly through that hole, so I can swap switches without desoldering the sip sockets again. If you are interested I can send you some pictures so you are 100% sure what I mean.

Oh I would be interested as well! That sounds like a much more convenient option than having to open all switched up.

kenshinjeff · « **Reply #222 on:** Wed, 27 April 2016, 09:23:00 »

Oops, yes. Sorry wasn't paying attention.

LunarisDream · « **Reply #223 on:** Wed, 27 April 2016, 09:29:37 »

Do note that drilling the switches will mean dust will more easily get into the switches. Not sure if it's a worthy tradeoff for you. Hot-swappable LEDs are neat but not something I'd do again after using the function twice across three boards.

kawasaki161 · « **Reply #224 on:** Wed, 27 April 2016, 11:30:07 »

Quote from: LunarisDream on Wed, 27 April 2016, 09:29:37

Do note that drilling the switches will mean dust will more easily get into the switches.

The plastic used is pretty elastic, as long as you are a bit careful you won't have problems with the dust from drilling. The position of the holes also does not affect the switch in any way, I'll post a photo of a drilled out switch as soon as my late Zealios arrive(if i'm lucky as early as the end of this week).

gadzkun · « **Reply #225 on:** Wed, 27 April 2016, 12:49:43 »

i dont understand why you guys need to drill the switch?
if you want to swap led, just put sip socket.
if you want swap the switch, the plate support switch top removal.
just open the switch top and swap the switch stem and its done without desoldering

CMIIW

Elaeagnifolia · « **Reply #226 on:** Wed, 27 April 2016, 13:03:52 »

Quote from: gadzkun on Wed, 27 April 2016, 12:49:43

i dont understand why you guys need to drill the switch?
if you want to swap led, just put sip socket.
if you want swap the switch, the plate support switch top removal.
just open the switch top and swap the switch stem and its done without desoldering
CMIIW

Drilling the switch isn't needed, but it's just an optional mod that makes it more convenient to put in sip sockets / replace bad sip sockets without opening the switch.

kawasaki161 · « **Reply #227 on:** Wed, 27 April 2016, 13:55:32 »

Quote from: Elaeagnifolia on Wed, 27 April 2016, 13:03:52

Drilling the switch isn't needed, but it's just an optional mod that makes it more convenient to put in sip sockets / replace bad sip sockets without opening the switch.

Correct, but you still have to remove the switchtop for bad sip sockets if you only drill the bottom half as I did. But if you (for whatever reason) have to desolder a switch, you are done a lot quicker than if you had to desolder the sip sockets with it.
It's by no means necessary, but it CAN make some situations easier.

reggalicious · « **Reply #228 on:** Wed, 27 April 2016, 15:09:34 »

Just saw that my Dwolla payment went through. It's happening!

gadzkun · « **Reply #229 on:** Fri, 29 April 2016, 00:39:17 »

1 moar day guys

.

LunarisDream · « **Reply #230 on:** Fri, 29 April 2016, 04:39:28 »

All Paypal invoices have been cleared and withdrawn (or are in the process of being withdrawn). International orders are a go.

Dwolla payments have a few remaining to be paid or are in the process of being paid. Just about everyone is good to go on the payments part, and I will be placing the order within the next week or two (since I'd like to transfer it all in one lump sum to minimize int'l wire transfer fees).

Pieminister · « **Reply #231 on:** Fri, 29 April 2016, 06:25:10 »

Quote from: LunarisDream on Fri, 29 April 2016, 04:39:28

All Paypal invoices have been cleared and withdrawn (or are in the process of being withdrawn). International orders are a go.

Dwolla payments have a few remaining to be paid or are in the process of being paid. Just about everyone is good to go on the payments part, and I will be placing the order within the next week or two (since I'd like to transfer it all in one lump sum to minimize int'l wire transfer fees).

Phew! Great news! Thanks for persisting. Do you jave any idea what the production timeline will be?

LunarisDream · « **Reply #232 on:** Fri, 29 April 2016, 06:47:09 »

Quote from: Pieminister on Fri, 29 April 2016, 06:25:10

Phew! Great news! Thanks for persisting. Do you jave any idea what the production timeline will be?

The estimate is 2 months for production and QC. Another two weeks for delivery and fulfillment. Hoping to wrap this up within three months.

gadzkun · « **Reply #233 on:** Fri, 29 April 2016, 07:11:47 »

Quote from: LunarisDream on Fri, 29 April 2016, 06:47:09

Quote from: Pieminister on Fri, 29 April 2016, 06:25:10
Phew! Great news! Thanks for persisting. Do you jave any idea what the production timeline will be?

The estimate is 2 months for production and QC. Another two weeks for delivery and fulfillment. Hoping to wrap this up within three months.

its happening!!!! yayy~

ok now i shall search artisan caps for this board

. and the wait game started.

derpingit · « **Reply #234 on:** Sat, 30 April 2016, 14:50:07 »

if someone fails to pay for their order, please let me know. i'll happily take over

LunarisDream · « **Reply #235 on:** Mon, 02 May 2016, 12:26:36 »

Quote from: derpingit on Sat, 30 April 2016, 14:50:07

if someone fails to pay for their order, please let me know. i'll happily take over

PM me. We can work something out.

derpingit · « **Reply #236 on:** Mon, 02 May 2016, 12:27:23 »

Quote from: LunarisDream on Mon, 02 May 2016, 12:26:36

Quote from: derpingit on Sat, 30 April 2016, 14:50:07
if someone fails to pay for their order, please let me know. i'll happily take over

PM me. We can work something out.

Hi lunaris. I'm all set (lurkin****@reddit)

LunarisDream · « **Reply #237 on:** Tue, 03 May 2016, 02:11:37 »

Quote from: derpingit on Mon, 02 May 2016, 12:27:23

Quote from: LunarisDream on Mon, 02 May 2016, 12:26:36
Quote from: derpingit on Sat, 30 April 2016, 14:50:07
if someone fails to pay for their order, please let me know. i'll happily take over

PM me. We can work something out.

Hi lunaris. I'm all set (lurkin****@reddit)

Ahh... I gotcha.

Atredl · « **Reply #238 on:** Wed, 04 May 2016, 21:28:37 »

I really hope dark blue will still be an option. Hopefully the other factory can still be used.

On the another note, I'd really like one of those numpad's as I've been looking for a replacement for my Leopold (damn wrong outputs :angry: ) Since I would only use it when not using the zz96 it doesn't bother me that it won't have the diffuser.

LunarisDream · « **Reply #239 on:** Thu, 05 May 2016, 03:01:58 »

Quote from: Atredl on Wed, 04 May 2016, 21:28:37

I really hope dark blue will still be an option. Hopefully the other factory can still be used.

On the another note, I'd really like one of those numpad's as I've been looking for a replacement for my Leopold (damn wrong outputs :angry: ) Since I would only use it when not using the zz96 it doesn't bother me that it won't have the diffuser.

I've received word. The old factory will be used for dark blue, and everything else will be done at the new one.

Let's keep the numpad on the down-low. It's priced low (for what it is) only for participants of this buy as a small bonus.

reggalicious · « **Reply #240 on:** Thu, 05 May 2016, 10:09:58 »

How long do we have to place orders for the keypads?

LunarisDream · « **Reply #241 on:** Thu, 05 May 2016, 19:18:44 »

Quote from: reggalicious on Thu, 05 May 2016, 10:09:58

How long do we have to place orders for the keypads?

I'll give it ten days or so.

boo · « **Reply #242 on:** Fri, 06 May 2016, 02:05:59 »

What is this keypad!!

big regret dropping out of this GB if i knew about this

WNovizar · « **Reply #243 on:** Fri, 06 May 2016, 02:42:19 »

Quote from: boo on Fri, 06 May 2016, 02:05:59

What is this keypad!!

big regret dropping out of this GB if i knew about this

Top secret only for zz96 buyer

gadzkun · « **Reply #244 on:** Fri, 06 May 2016, 02:44:53 »

Quote from: WNovizar on Fri, 06 May 2016, 02:42:19

Quote from: boo on Fri, 06 May 2016, 02:05:59
What is this keypad!!

big regret dropping out of this GB if i knew about this
Top secret only for zz96 buyer

call CIA, classified information has leaked!

zoomwalt · « **Reply #245 on:** Sun, 08 May 2016, 00:13:09 »

Hey guys, I have a question for you all.

I bought this board pre-assembled from someone else. The way they assembled it, it doesn't have arrow keys. How can I modify the board to have arrow keys? I assume it will involve de-soldering and re-soldering switches.

Has anyone done this before? are there instructions to follow?

Thanks

gadzkun · « **Reply #246 on:** Sun, 08 May 2016, 01:47:48 »

Quote from: zoomwalt on Sun, 08 May 2016, 00:13:09

Hey guys, I have a question for you all.

I bought this board pre-assembled from someone else. The way they assembled it, it doesn't have arrow keys. How can I modify the board to have arrow keys? I assume it will involve de-soldering and re-soldering switches.

Has anyone done this before? are there instructions to follow?

Thanks

i assume your layout is like the first one..

you must desolder red color keys on first layout.
and change it to green color keys on second layout.

its 1.75u shift - 1.5u alt/crtl - arrow keys - 1u Num 0

hope it helps

LunarisDream · « **Reply #247 on:** Sun, 08 May 2016, 02:06:31 »

Quote from: gadzkun on Sun, 08 May 2016, 01:47:48

Quote from: zoomwalt on Sun, 08 May 2016, 00:13:09
Hey guys, I have a question for you all.

I bought this board pre-assembled from someone else. The way they assembled it, it doesn't have arrow keys. How can I modify the board to have arrow keys? I assume it will involve de-soldering and re-soldering switches.

Has anyone done this before? are there instructions to follow?

Thanks

i assume your layout is like the first one..

Show Image

you must desolder red color keys on first layout.
and change it to green color keys on second layout.

its 1.75u shift - 1.5u alt/crtl - arrow keys - 1u Num 0

hope it helps

Won't work unfortunately. He will need to desolder all the switches to remove the stabilizers on RShift and pad0. ._.

gadzkun · « **Reply #248 on:** Sun, 08 May 2016, 02:13:16 »

Quote from: LunarisDream on Sun, 08 May 2016, 02:06:31

Quote from: gadzkun on Sun, 08 May 2016, 01:47:48
Quote from: zoomwalt on Sun, 08 May 2016, 00:13:09
Hey guys, I have a question for you all.

I bought this board pre-assembled from someone else. The way they assembled it, it doesn't have arrow keys. How can I modify the board to have arrow keys? I assume it will involve de-soldering and re-soldering switches.

Has anyone done this before? are there instructions to follow?

Thanks

i assume your layout is like the first one..

Show Image

you must desolder red color keys on first layout.
and change it to green color keys on second layout.

its 1.75u shift - 1.5u alt/crtl - arrow keys - 1u Num 0

hope it helps

Won't work unfortunately. He will need to desolder all the switches to remove the stabilizers on RShift and pad0. ._.

aw you right, i forgot about the stabilizer :eek:

thats too bad :(

Pieminister · « **Reply #249 on:** Sun, 08 May 2016, 08:56:43 »

Has anyone seen what an ISO ZZ96 looks like? I am thinking about slapping an ISO enter on there. Not sure 100% yet though.

Does this support a short left shift? the layout picture isn't clear on that I don't think

News:

Author Topic: [GB] ZZ96 v2 r2 (replacements in progress) (Read 262324 times)