Author Topic: [GB] CNC Alum. Cooler Master TKL cases r2, SHIPPING  (Read 185771 times)

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Offline chalks

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Re: [GB] CNC Aluminum Cases Cooler Master TKL boards (r2) ORDERING FINAL HOURS
« Reply #200 on: Sat, 22 April 2017, 08:49:41 »
I have just put an order in and got an acceptance mail. I hope I'm not too late or causing any inconvenience.

Offline norbauer

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Re: [GB] CNC Aluminum Cases Cooler Master TKL boards (r2) ORDERING FINAL HOURS
« Reply #201 on: Sat, 22 April 2017, 09:41:37 »
I have just put an order in and got an acceptance mail. I hope I'm not too late or causing any inconvenience.

All is well. I'm going to leave the group buy page open for part of today to account for late arrivals. Last time, several people missed the cutoff by just a few hours, and I wanted to avoid anyone being disappointed. I'm going to Silicon Valley Comic Con today, so I won't have time to draft up the order spreadsheet for the factory until late tonight anyway. So, yes, in short: if the shopping cart is still leting you check out, you can order and make it into the group buy. :) I'll post here when I shut it down later today.

Offline zslane

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Re: [GB] CNC Aluminum Cases Cooler Master TKL boards (r2) ORDERING FINAL HOURS
« Reply #202 on: Sat, 22 April 2017, 10:46:23 »
The idea is that the shelf liner dampens some of the typing sound. It's a little esoteric and doesn't make for a huge acoustic change (in my opinion), but a lot of people are really into it. :)

If you really want to do the job right, put a sheet of 1/10" sorbothane acoustic dampening material in there (you can get it from Amazon). I did this for a Pok3r which I re-cased with a Datamancer walnut case and it made a world of difference. But that was really necessary because the Pok3r had MX blues and the wood case really amplified all the clatter, almost like a speaker cabinet. I doubt that a NovaTouch inside a high-grade aluminum case would present the same need for dampening as my Pok3r, but if such dampening turned out to be desirable, I would go for the sorbothane sheet.

As for room inside the case, sorbothane is pretty soft (and a little sticky) and will compress as needed.

Offline zslane

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Re: [GB] CNC Aluminum Cases Cooler Master TKL boards (r2) ORDERING FINAL HOURS
« Reply #203 on: Sat, 22 April 2017, 11:27:47 »
How tall are the riser feet? I couldn't find any specs on that on the order page.

Offline chalks

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Re: [GB] CNC Aluminum Cases Cooler Master TKL boards (r2) ORDERING FINAL HOURS
« Reply #204 on: Sat, 22 April 2017, 12:05:27 »
I have just put an order in and got an acceptance mail. I hope I'm not too late or causing any inconvenience.

All is well. I'm going to leave the group buy page open for part of today to account for late arrivals. Last time, several people missed the cutoff by just a few hours, and I wanted to avoid anyone being disappointed. I'm going to Silicon Valley Comic Con today, so I won't have time to draft up the order spreadsheet for the factory until late tonight anyway. So, yes, in short: if the shopping cart is still leting you check out, you can order and make it into the group buy. :) I'll post here when I shut it down later today.

Great!  :D Thank you very much

Offline poolside

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Re: [GB] CNC Aluminum Cases Cooler Master TKL boards (r2) ORDERING FINAL HOURS
« Reply #205 on: Sat, 22 April 2017, 13:01:06 »
How tall are the riser feet? I couldn't find any specs on that on the order page.

Not accounting for the threaded stem, those from round 1 are 15mm high without the bumpon (about 18mm with the bumpon).

Offline TheCanisDirus

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Re: [GB] CNC Aluminum Cases Cooler Master TKL boards (r2) ORDERING FINAL HOURS
« Reply #206 on: Sat, 22 April 2017, 16:06:08 »
Now, this could be real:  :)

Show Image


Exactly what i was thinking!  :D

Offline elcubismo

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Re: [GB] CNC Aluminum Cases Cooler Master TKL boards (r2) ORDERING FINAL HOURS
« Reply #207 on: Sat, 22 April 2017, 16:52:46 »
The idea is that the shelf liner dampens some of the typing sound. It's a little esoteric and doesn't make for a huge acoustic change (in my opinion), but a lot of people are really into it. :)

If you really want to do the job right, put a sheet of 1/10" sorbothane acoustic dampening material in there (you can get it from Amazon). I did this for a Pok3r which I re-cased with a Datamancer walnut case and it made a world of difference. But that was really necessary because the Pok3r had MX blues and the wood case really amplified all the clatter, almost like a speaker cabinet. I doubt that a NovaTouch inside a high-grade aluminum case would present the same need for dampening as my Pok3r, but if such dampening turned out to be desirable, I would go for the sorbothane sheet.

As for room inside the case, sorbothane is pretty soft (and a little sticky) and will compress as needed.

Not sure about the rules on outside links because I tend to see a lot of posts without actual links, but I think I found it on amazon. The ones I've seen are kind of large squares - can it be cut with like scissors or an exacto knife? Even if it only dampens the sound slightly, I would love to have my nova as quiet as possible.

Really looking forward to getting this case. Gonna buy some hyperspheres and lube. I bought my nova used w/ dental bands but they reduce the key travel a little too much. Currently my Leopold FC660C feels and sounds better. If Norbauer ever makes a case for the leo, I would buy it without any hesitation.

As for further mods, I really need to get some 55g domes for the novatouch. Tried a redditor's HHKB with those on it and it felt wonderful, and not too heavy as some thought. That's going to cost a pretty penny too :/
Leopold FC660C lubed, silenced with landing pads | Norbatouch lubed, silenced with hyperspheres | Poker II MX Blue with vortex aluminum case, vortex red/white doubeshot pbt caps and o-rings | CODE TKL MX Clear with Miami | Unicomp Buckling Spring | GMMK with rainbow vomit switches, mostly jailhouse blues and pandealios

Offline zslane

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Re: [GB] CNC Aluminum Cases Cooler Master TKL boards (r2) ORDERING FINAL HOURS
« Reply #208 on: Sat, 22 April 2017, 19:37:07 »
The idea is that the shelf liner dampens some of the typing sound. It's a little esoteric and doesn't make for a huge acoustic change (in my opinion), but a lot of people are really into it. :)

If you really want to do the job right, put a sheet of 1/10" sorbothane acoustic dampening material in there (you can get it from Amazon). I did this for a Pok3r which I re-cased with a Datamancer walnut case and it made a world of difference. But that was really necessary because the Pok3r had MX blues and the wood case really amplified all the clatter, almost like a speaker cabinet. I doubt that a NovaTouch inside a high-grade aluminum case would present the same need for dampening as my Pok3r, but if such dampening turned out to be desirable, I would go for the sorbothane sheet.

As for room inside the case, sorbothane is pretty soft (and a little sticky) and will compress as needed.

Not sure about the rules on outside links because I tend to see a lot of posts without actual links, but I think I found it on amazon. The ones I've seen are kind of large squares - can it be cut with like scissors or an exacto knife? Even if it only dampens the sound slightly, I would love to have my nova as quiet as possible.

Really looking forward to getting this case. Gonna buy some hyperspheres and lube. I bought my nova used w/ dental bands but they reduce the key travel a little too much. Currently my Leopold FC660C feels and sounds better. If Norbauer ever makes a case for the leo, I would buy it without any hesitation.

As for further mods, I really need to get some 55g domes for the novatouch. Tried a redditor's HHKB with those on it and it felt wonderful, and not too heavy as some thought. That's going to cost a pretty penny too :/

Yes, sorbothane sheets are easy to cut with scissors or X-acto knife. And it will pretty much completely dampen any acoustic vibrations radiating out from the bottom of the PCB. It obviously won't do anything for the noise that radiates up from/through the plate. But that's what silencing rings are for. Get rid of those "dental bands" and get the bands that are meant for Topre/TMX stems. They don't reduce key travel noticeably and they do a great job of dampening the upstroke noise (which I really hate too).

Offline zslane

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Re: [GB] CNC Aluminum Cases Cooler Master TKL boards (r2) ORDERING FINAL HOURS
« Reply #209 on: Sat, 22 April 2017, 19:51:42 »
How tall are the riser feet? I couldn't find any specs on that on the order page.

Not accounting for the threaded stem, those from round 1 are 15mm high without the bumpon (about 18mm with the bumpon).

Thanks for the info!

Two more questions: what kind of screw thread does it have?

And do the holes that they screw into go all the way through the case? In other words, could screws for a different (shorter) riser foot be fed through from the inside?

Offline norbauer

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The group buy is now officially closed, but in order to hit some MOQ thresholds from the manufacturer I'm over-ordering by a bit. Those limited quantities will continue to be available as pre-orders in my Shopify page until they sell out. With my apologies: once they're gone, they're gone, and I can't add any others after that.

Good news is, we go to manufacturing this week!  :cool:






Offline bciamny

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sigh. i missed the deadline with my indecisiveness yesterday. but then i saw that you had some additional blue stock and i saw it as a sign. because i totes need another keyboard.

hehe. i really like the way you've run this and the prior gb norbauer and i'm glad i ultimately got a chance to get in. looking forward to a great product!

Offline TheEerieCold

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Can't wait!


Matrix Abel+ Ver.Dark / Matrix 8XV2.0 (Red) / Matrix 8XV2.2 (Blue) / Matrix 8XV2.2 (Caustic Custom) / Matrix Noah / Matrix Abel X RX-178 Ver.CA / Matrix 8XV2.0 ADD (Silver) / Matrix Falcon (Nebula) / Matrix Vita (McFlurry) / Matrix ME SE (McFlurry)

Offline poolside

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Re: [GB] CNC Aluminum Cases Cooler Master TKL boards (r2) ORDERING FINAL HOURS
« Reply #213 on: Sun, 23 April 2017, 03:38:45 »
How tall are the riser feet? I couldn't find any specs on that on the order page.

Not accounting for the threaded stem, those from round 1 are 15mm high without the bumpon (about 18mm with the bumpon).

Thanks for the info!

Two more questions: what kind of screw thread does it have?

And do the holes that they screw into go all the way through the case? In other words, could screws for a different (shorter) riser foot be fed through from the inside?

Regarding your second question, there was this post by Ryan in the R1 GB thread:

Anybody found/tried different riser feet? Angle is too tall for me with the included feet. Most others that I've looked into screw in from the inside of the case. Anyone found some what work for this case?

The ones that MassDrop recently sold do fit through the holes. I can vouch at least that they can be screwed into the case from the inside. Because the screw heads have a chamfer on the underside and I don't have a chamfer on the screw hole interior, however, the screw head sits a little proud (raised above the surface) of the case interior, and this may interfere with the underside of some PCBs. I haven't actually tested that yet. Anybody else had any success using other feet with the case?

Offline snoopy

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If the novatouch was still available, I would have definitively ordered a case. Any chance for realforce tkl cases in the future?

Offline poolside

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If the novatouch was still available, I would have definitively ordered a case. Any chance for realforce tkl cases in the future?

The Novatouches are out of stock at Originative, but you it seems you can still order their case+nova bundles. They might have put some aside for these bundles.
« Last Edit: Sun, 23 April 2017, 08:25:11 by poolside »

Offline yonghf

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Just placed an order for the Aerospace Aluminium! Would've loved the Galactic Blue (Brushed) but price is kinda steep when including international shipping :(
Maybe next time..

Offline richard912

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Just placed an order for the Aerospace Aluminium! Would've loved the Galactic Blue (Brushed) but price is kinda steep when including international shipping :(
Maybe next time..
r2 is supposed to be the last time so, there won't be a next time....

Offline norbauer

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OK, the wire has been sent and manufacturing begins in just a few days!

THANK YOU SO MUCH to everyone who helped make this possible. This and r1 have been so much fun, and I've learned so much in the process. I am enormously grateful for all the help, support, and encouragement I have gotten from many, many members of this community. You guys are all amazing. <3

Oh, and as of just an hour ago, I have one or two of each of the following left for pre-order for those who didn't make it in under the GB: Aerospace aluminum, Galactic Blue, Galactic Blue brushed, Tactical Gray, Tactical Gray brushed, Retro Refrigerator. Now that the factory quantities are locked in, I can't change or add any more. Amazingly, people are still ordering, so I don't expect those to be around much longer, but if you see a finish you like still in stock in the shop, you are welcome to snag it.

Oh, and it looks like I have one medium-blue powder coat prototype (Novatouch compatability only) available now, and will have two special dark green anodized cases available to ship with the group buy. If anybody wants one of those, just message me. I didn't bother putting them in the shop.
« Last Edit: Mon, 24 April 2017, 17:29:54 by norbauer »

Offline norbauer

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Update: the powder-coat blue and one of the green anodized cases are now gone.

Should anyone want the last custom green case, I put it up online:
https://shop.norbauer.com/products/coolermaster-custom-color-tkl-case-pantone-3435c

Offline richard912

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Would a USB connector of 18 x 10 x 8mm be able to fit the case?

Offline norbauer

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Would a USB connector of 18 x 10 x 8mm be able to fit the case?

Assuming 18mm is the length of the connector (parallel to the axis of the wire), you should be good. A 10mm x 8mm connector would fit into the connector pocket with even a bit of room to spare.

Offline richard912

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Would a USB connector of 18 x 10 x 8mm be able to fit the case?

Assuming 18mm is the length of the connector (parallel to the axis of the wire), you should be good. A 10mm x 8mm connector would fit into the connector pocket with even a bit of room to spare.
Great. Thanks for the info. Looks like I will likely need to commission another set of custom cables soon to replace my existing Pexon new style mod set.

Offline pexon

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For those interested in slimmer Micro USBs, I have ordered some, I will wait and see what the quality is like before I offer them, but it should be a workaround! :D

Offline richard912

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For those interested in slimmer Micro USBs, I have ordered some, I will wait and see what the quality is like before I offer them, but it should be a workaround! :D
Fantastic!! Do keep us posted, or me at least. Will need to commission a new style mod connector for this

Offline autobot

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Do the Massdrop CNC Aluminum cone feet fit with the PCB and shelf liner installed and all closed up? I remember reading that the screws stick up a bit on the inside...

Offline zslane

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Do the Massdrop CNC Aluminum cone feet fit with the PCB and shelf liner installed and all closed up? I remember reading that the screws stick up a bit on the inside...

If you read twelve messages above yours you will see the answer.

Offline autobot

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Do the Massdrop CNC Aluminum cone feet fit with the PCB and shelf liner installed and all closed up? I remember reading that the screws stick up a bit on the inside...

If you read twelve messages above yours you will see the answer.

Derp, thanks!

Offline superpiya

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Do the Massdrop CNC Aluminum cone feet fit with the PCB and shelf liner installed and all closed up? I remember reading that the screws stick up a bit on the inside...

If you read twelve messages above yours you will see the answer.

Lol, did you really count that  :))

Offline autobot

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Do the Massdrop CNC Aluminum cone feet fit with the PCB and shelf liner installed and all closed up? I remember reading that the screws stick up a bit on the inside...

If you read twelve messages above yours you will see the answer.

Lol, did you really count that  :))

 :)) :)) :)) :)) :)) :)) :))

Offline zslane

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Do the Massdrop CNC Aluminum cone feet fit with the PCB and shelf liner installed and all closed up? I remember reading that the screws stick up a bit on the inside...

If you read twelve messages above yours you will see the answer.

Lol, did you really count that  :))

Yes. I can even count to twenty, and I can spell my own name. My parents are very proud.

Offline nightdriver

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received my enigma case.  unfortunately it seems like i may have to send it back to deal with threading on one of the riser foot holes, but it looks awesome so i wanted to post a picture first:



i'll take another one later today when it's not so bright in here.

Offline norbauer

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received my enigma case.  unfortunately it seems like i may have to send it back to deal with threading on one of the riser foot holes, but it looks awesome so i wanted to post a picture first:

Show Image


i'll take another one later today when it's not so bright in here.

Hey nightdriver. Thanks for sharing the photo and kind words! Do send back the prototype case you have there so I can fix that threading issue you were having, if it's a concern to you at all.

For those curious, he had some trouble getting one of the riser feet in and used to pliers to help one of them along, which damaged the finish a bit. Fortunately, I have a spare set of enigma black feet, but I also want to check out the threads to see why they weren't going in easily. In my past experience, sometimes the riser feet do need a bit of force to screw in properly, especially on the powder cases. (I think the powder process may affect the threads somehow—either the heat or how they hold them during coating). For those situations, I recommend against using metal tools and instead would suggest using something grippy like drawer liner. If you screw the riser foot in until it hits resistance and then back it off until it's loose and then screw it in more with force again, you'll find that each time it goes in a little bit more until it's in all the way. This process essentially re-forms the threads on the foot using the tapped grooves in the case bottom. I have never encountered a riser foot situation where this process didn't work, even though it required a some slightly annoying effort/patience. :)
« Last Edit: Thu, 27 April 2017, 12:39:10 by norbauer »

Offline zslane

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Thanks for that excellent advice, Ryan!

Offline q1w2e3r4t5z

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received my enigma case.  unfortunately it seems like i may have to send it back to deal with threading on one of the riser foot holes, but it looks awesome so i wanted to post a picture first:

Show Image


i'll take another one later today when it's not so bright in here.

Hey nightdriver. Thanks for sharing the photo and kind words! Do send back the prototype case you have there so I can fix that threading issue you were having, if it's a concern to you at all.

For those curious, he had some trouble getting one of the riser feet in and used to pliers to help one of them along, which damaged the finish a bit. Fortunately, I have a spare set of enigma black feet, but I also want to check out the threads to see why they weren't going in easily. In my past experience, sometimes the riser feet do need a bit of force to screw in properly, especially on the powder cases. (I think the powder process may affect the threads somehow—either the heat or how they hold them during coating). For those situations, I recommend against using metal tools and instead would suggest using something grippy like drawer liner. If you screw the riser foot in until it hits resistance and then back it off until it's loose and then screw it in more with force again, you'll find that each time it goes in a little bit more until it's in all the way. This process essentially re-forms the threads on the foot using the tapped grooves in the case bottom. I have never encountered a riser foot situation where this process didn't work, even though it required a some slightly annoying effort/patience. :)
Powder coating adds a fraction of an inch to the thickness so the screw holes get a tad tighter than planned

Offline norbauer

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received my enigma case.  unfortunately it seems like i may have to send it back to deal with threading on one of the riser foot holes, but it looks awesome so i wanted to post a picture first:

Show Image


i'll take another one later today when it's not so bright in here.

Hey nightdriver. Thanks for sharing the photo and kind words! Do send back the prototype case you have there so I can fix that threading issue you were having, if it's a concern to you at all.

For those curious, he had some trouble getting one of the riser feet in and used to pliers to help one of them along, which damaged the finish a bit. Fortunately, I have a spare set of enigma black feet, but I also want to check out the threads to see why they weren't going in easily. In my past experience, sometimes the riser feet do need a bit of force to screw in properly, especially on the powder cases. (I think the powder process may affect the threads somehow—either the heat or how they hold them during coating). For those situations, I recommend against using metal tools and instead would suggest using something grippy like drawer liner. If you screw the riser foot in until it hits resistance and then back it off until it's loose and then screw it in more with force again, you'll find that each time it goes in a little bit more until it's in all the way. This process essentially re-forms the threads on the foot using the tapped grooves in the case bottom. I have never encountered a riser foot situation where this process didn't work, even though it required a some slightly annoying effort/patience. :)
Powder coating adds a fraction of an inch to the thickness so the screw holes get a tad tighter than planned

True in general, but I had the threads masked off from the powder.

Offline bayfury

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Where do we get the blank keycap set in the picture?

Offline norbauer

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Where do we get the blank keycap set in the picture?

Which picture?

Offline bayfury

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Where do we get the blank keycap set in the picture?

Which picture?

The white and black  in the first post.





Offline norbauer

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Those are thick PBTs from a recent drop on MassDrop.

https://www.massdrop.com/buy/34742


Offline nurbs

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Re: [GB] CNC Aluminum Cases for Cooler Master TKL boards (r2) ORDERING
« Reply #241 on: Mon, 01 May 2017, 14:39:57 »

I have heard that as well, but I don't have a Pexon cable myself with which to test.

You can do this with the case, however. ;)


Is this Aerospace Aluminum or Tactical Gray ?

Also, you got PM  :D

Thats regular gray from r1

Thanks man  :thumb:

Is it lighter in color than the current R2 Tactical Gray?

Yes. The R1 gray you see in the video is Cool Gray 11 C while the R2 tactial gray is 2336 C.

Actually, the video is the gray from Originative, a slightly cooler gray than the R1.

Offline TheEerieCold

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Excited now that the buy is over, already had work done on the Masterkeys I plan to put in the case. A nice hybrid  RGB Linear Grey 85g board ready to go!

Matrix Abel+ Ver.Dark / Matrix 8XV2.0 (Red) / Matrix 8XV2.2 (Blue) / Matrix 8XV2.2 (Caustic Custom) / Matrix Noah / Matrix Abel X RX-178 Ver.CA / Matrix 8XV2.0 ADD (Silver) / Matrix Falcon (Nebula) / Matrix Vita (McFlurry) / Matrix ME SE (McFlurry)

Offline fine_italian_leather

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Re: [GB] CNC Aluminum Cases for Cooler Master TKL boards (r2) ORDERING
« Reply #243 on: Mon, 01 May 2017, 17:14:46 »

I have heard that as well, but I don't have a Pexon cable myself with which to test.

You can do this with the case, however. ;)


Is this Aerospace Aluminum or Tactical Gray ?

Also, you got PM  :D

Thats regular gray from r1

Thanks man  :thumb:

Is it lighter in color than the current R2 Tactical Gray?

Yes. The R1 gray you see in the video is Cool Gray 11 C while the R2 tactial gray is 2336 C.

Actually, the video is the gray from Originative, a slightly cooler gray than the R1.

I know that's the R1 Originative gray and I listed the correct color. Don't try to correct someone without being confident that there is a error or you'll look like a fool.

Offline zslane

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Reading other people's posts for full/proper thread context is not a widely practiced courtesy around here.

Offline norbauer

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I'm sure the member was just trying to provide what they thought was some helpful info, even if superfluous. GeekHack threads tend to have a lot of traffic and details flying around (and not the world's cleanest design/UI, let's be honest), so it's easy to skim and be misled while commenting casually.

Anyway, no harm in giving people the benefit of the doubt and a fair measure of goodwill. Or so say I at least. :)

Offline zslane

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I found this to be very interesting: https://geekhack.org/index.php?topic=89150.0

Unfortunately they won't do powder-coated white.

Maybe the Peach will inspire Ryan to produce what they won't...

Offline norbauer

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I found this to be very interesting: https://geekhack.org/index.php?topic=89150.0

I agree. That is a pretty cool design! Machining quality looks pretty good too.

Unfortunately they won't do powder-coated white.

Maybe the Peach will inspire Ryan to produce what they won't...

Do you mean a 100% board+case in white?

I have almost finished my new RealForce 87U case design, by the way. And that one is definitely going to be offered in white as the default option, but in a material and finish that I think will surprise everyone. ;) (I'm not trying trying to be coy or cagey, btw; I just don't want to promise something until I'm sure I can deliver it. I'll start an IC thread once I'm 100% sure I can produce it.)

Offline zslane

  • Posts: 2297
  • Location: Los Angeles, CA, USA
Do you mean a 100% board+case in white?

Yes.

An aluminum case in white for the RealForce RGB would be my ultimate end-game product.

I don't need a full DIY kit (with PCB and plate) if the case fits the RealForce RGB...

Offline clappingcactus

  • Posts: 371
  • Location: Ottawa, Canada
I'm not trying trying to be coy or cagey, btw; I just don't want to promise something until I'm sure I can deliver it. I'll start an IC thread once I'm 100% sure I can produce it.

What do I get if I guess 'ceramic' and it I turn out to be correct? :P