Is it possible to solder underglow LEDs to the in-switch LED points?

[Vox]

Dumb question, I know. But is it possible to do that? I am deciding between the Banana Split and the Sentraq S60-X. I like the split spacebar of the Banana Split but I also like the underglow LED effect of the Sentraq S60's PCB. Ideally, I would want both features. So would it be possible to solder some flat LED's to the bottom of the PCB in the same spot where the In-Switch LEDs get soldered? Would it be possible to have both an in-switch LED and an underglow LED in the same spot? Would an underglow LED even fit or align with the soldering points of the PCB? Okay, I'm done asking similar questions but yeah... it seems like it could be done, but at the same time unpractical. Thanks for enduring with my stupidity, I'm still learning... Thanks.

[nmur]

https://geekhack.org/index.php?topic=80320.0

Would it be possible to have both an in-switch LED and an underglow LED in the same spot?

I think this has been done (I think someone did this to their SPRiT 60%) but I can imagine it being difficult, as you'd have to solder a through-hole LED and SMD LED to the same point.

[Vox]

hmm. There's no harm trying, right?

[rpeterclark]

I did that with this board a couple years back (the one in the acrylic case):



It was basically how you would think. Trim the in-switch LEDs short so that they do not poke through, then solder them in. Then solder the SMD LEDs to the same pads. Pray that you do not make a mistake because desoldering is now much more painful.

The other important lesson I learned is to first test with the actual color LEDs that you will be using. Some LED colors use more power that others and you might find that one or both LEDs are weaker than you would want. Just plug in your board and hold touch both the in-switch and SMD lLEDs to the same pads at the same time to test. In the end, white worked fine for me, but I remember having problems with red and green LEDs specifically.

[Data]

Yes, I did this on my Infinity ErgoDox. Mind the gap between the PCB and case.

[Vox]

I did that with this board a couple years back (the one in the acrylic case):

It was basically how you would think. Trim the in-switch LEDs short so that they do not poke through, then solder them in. Then solder the SMD LEDs to the same pads. Pray that you do not make a mistake because desoldering is now much more painful.

The other important lesson I learned is to first test with the actual color LEDs that you will be using. Some LED colors use more power that others and you might find that one or both LEDs are weaker than you would want. Just plug in your board and hold touch both the in-switch and SMD lLEDs to the same pads at the same time to test. In the end, white worked fine for me, but I remember having problems with red and green LEDs specifically.

Thanks. I'll probs do that for this build. In theory, if I didn't use in-switch leds for this keyboard, and only had the underglow smd ones, would they be brighter? Maybe the photo doesn't do it justice, but I imagined the underglow to be more like this:

Yes, I did this on my Infinity ErgoDox. Mind the gap between the PCB and case.

I'll probably still be using the case that's used in the Sentraq s60-x kit, so I think i'll be fine. Thanks

[rpeterclark]

Yeah, you wouldn't see the hotspots from the LEDs like in my photo when they keyboard is upright. You end up with that diffused look on the sides. But like I said, the brightness is greatly affected by the colors you choose, so be sure to test before committing.

[Vox]

Ok. I'll definitely be experimenting. I'm also going to be getting a Satan pcb and trying to wire a led strip to it.