Focus FK-3001

[Mattr567]

The wiki on this one is empty, never seen it before. Its as if a FK 8000 and a 2001 had a baby: A 2001 w/ a calculator.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/262322968204

[jacobolus]

The Deskthority wiki isn’t completely empty:
https://deskthority.net/wiki/Focus_FK-3001

It’s come up a few times before:
https://encrypted.google.com/search?q=%22fk%2D3001%22%20(site%3Ageekhack.org%20OR%20site%3Adeskthority.net)

[chyros]

The solar cell version of this model is super rare, although this one apparently doesn't work.

[bocahgundul]

The solar cell version of this model is super rare, although this one apparently doesn't work.

Can I see pic of this "solar cell version"?

[ander]

It's in the auction page linked to above.

[chyros]

The solar cell version of this model is super rare, although this one apparently doesn't work.

Can I see pic of this "solar cell version"?

Yeah it's this one . Notice the little black strip under the LCD screen? Normal battery-driven 3001s don't have that. Strangely, this solar-cell model appears to have batteries as well, and different ones from the 3001/8000/9000 too. I nearly managed to snag one of these solar models half a year or so ago from a surplus website but missed it. I've only seen evidence of three or so of these in total, including this one.

[Vanilla]

I've bought 1 of these before, 2 of the non-solar celled versions, and 2 of its smaller 2001 little brothers. Every single one of them did not work. On one of my 3001's only the calculator works.

The build quality of these focus boards are mediocre.

[Mattr567]

The solar cell version of this model is super rare, although this one apparently doesn't work.

Can I see pic of this "solar cell version"?

Yeah it's this one . Notice the little black strip under the LCD screen? Normal battery-driven 3001s don't have that. Strangely, this solar-cell model appears to have batteries as well, and different ones from the 3001/8000/9000 too. I nearly managed to snag one of these solar models half a year or so ago from a surplus website but missed it. I've only seen evidence of three or so of these in total, including this one.

This would be a fun pickup then.

[chyros]

The solar cell version of this model is super rare, although this one apparently doesn't work.

Can I see pic of this "solar cell version"?

Yeah it's this one . Notice the little black strip under the LCD screen? Normal battery-driven 3001s don't have that. Strangely, this solar-cell model appears to have batteries as well, and different ones from the 3001/8000/9000 too. I nearly managed to snag one of these solar models half a year or so ago from a surplus website but missed it. I've only seen evidence of three or so of these in total, including this one.

This would be a fun pickup then.

It doesn't work though xD . Plus, it's not cheap.

[khronokrator]

It's a nice board, but I'm currently only interested in 5001/9000s right now, which are a little hard to find (to say nothing of being in working condition).

There's also a FK-8000 up for sale on eBay right now:

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Focus-FK-8000-Clicky-Keyboard-with-calculator-AT-Connection-Full-Size-HIGH-QLTY-/172127072854?

It seems to be in nice condition, but again... I'm holding out for the top-of-the-line Focus battleships with real Alps. 

[Mattr567]

The solar cell version of this model is super rare, although this one apparently doesn't work.

Can I see pic of this "solar cell version"?

Yeah it's this one . Notice the little black strip under the LCD screen? Normal battery-driven 3001s don't have that. Strangely, this solar-cell model appears to have batteries as well, and different ones from the 3001/8000/9000 too. I nearly managed to snag one of these solar models half a year or so ago from a surplus website but missed it. I've only seen evidence of three or so of these in total, including this one.

This would be a fun pickup then.

It doesn't work though xD . Plus, it's not cheap.

Still a cool pickup nonetheless. Cheaper price agreed though. I bet someone could fix it. Not many will have a solar powered (kinda) Alps board!

[Fullcream]

I bought one of these about a year ago for $23 AUD.

It had blue Alps.

[chyros]

Damn, that sure as hell needs wikification xD .

[Mattr567]

Damn, that sure as hell needs wikification xD .

Wow yea. It was relisted for cheaper so I think ill pick up the 3001 and fix it up.

[chyros]

Damn, that sure as hell needs wikification xD .

Wow yea. It was relisted for cheaper so I think ill pick up the 3001 and fix it up.

Yeah go for it, it's not a lot for a white Alps keyboard with this many switches and doubleshot keycaps. Even if the calc is absolutely shot.

[Mattr567]

Damn, that sure as hell needs wikification xD .

Wow yea. It was relisted for cheaper so I think ill pick up the 3001 and fix it up.

Yeah go for it, it's not a lot for a white Alps keyboard with this many switches and doubleshot keycaps. Even if the calc is absolutely shot.

And its made in Taiwan. So better build quality and almost guaranteed SKCM Whites since its early.

[chyros]

Damn, that sure as hell needs wikification xD .

Wow yea. It was relisted for cheaper so I think ill pick up the 3001 and fix it up.

Yeah go for it, it's not a lot for a white Alps keyboard with this many switches and doubleshot keycaps. Even if the calc is absolutely shot.

And its made in Taiwan. So better build quality and almost guaranteed SKCM Whites since its early.

If you look closely you can see slits and tabs on it, so yeah, should be SKCM White.

[Mattr567]

Damn, that sure as hell needs wikification xD .

Wow yea. It was relisted for cheaper so I think ill pick up the 3001 and fix it up.

Yeah go for it, it's not a lot for a white Alps keyboard with this many switches and doubleshot keycaps. Even if the calc is absolutely shot.

And its made in Taiwan. So better build quality and almost guaranteed SKCM Whites since its early.

If you look closely you can see slits and tabs on it, so yeah, should be SKCM White.

Got it, time to celebrate!

Will be completely restoring this one, full cleanup + retrobright etc and getting the calculator back up and running. From the pics that battery didn't leak so thank god for that. Otherwise I will replace the liquid crystal display and stuff like that, there are very few fully working calculator FK's, and I want this one to work being so rare. The wiki on it will soon not be so bare. There seems to be a great deal of mystery on this board.

[chyros]

Damn, that sure as hell needs wikification xD .

Wow yea. It was relisted for cheaper so I think ill pick up the 3001 and fix it up.

Yeah go for it, it's not a lot for a white Alps keyboard with this many switches and doubleshot keycaps. Even if the calc is absolutely shot.

And its made in Taiwan. So better build quality and almost guaranteed SKCM Whites since its early.

If you look closely you can see slits and tabs on it, so yeah, should be SKCM White.

Got it, time to celebrate!

Will be completely restoring this one, full cleanup + retrobright etc and getting the calculator back up and running. From the pics that battery didn't leak so thank god for that. Otherwise I will replace the liquid crystal display and stuff like that, there are very few fully working calculator FK's, and I want this one to work being so rare. The wiki on it will soon not be so bare. There seems to be a great deal of mystery on this board.

Cool, let us know what you find .

[Mattr567]

Damn, that sure as hell needs wikification xD .

Wow yea. It was relisted for cheaper so I think ill pick up the 3001 and fix it up.

Yeah go for it, it's not a lot for a white Alps keyboard with this many switches and doubleshot keycaps. Even if the calc is absolutely shot.

And its made in Taiwan. So better build quality and almost guaranteed SKCM Whites since its early.

If you look closely you can see slits and tabs on it, so yeah, should be SKCM White.

Got it, time to celebrate!

Will be completely restoring this one, full cleanup + retrobright etc and getting the calculator back up and running. From the pics that battery didn't leak so thank god for that. Otherwise I will replace the liquid crystal display and stuff like that, there are very few fully working calculator FK's, and I want this one to work being so rare. The wiki on it will soon not be so bare. There seems to be a great deal of mystery on this board.

Cool, let us know what you find .

Will do. The serial number on the back in the pic's seems really different from the ones ive seen and the one on you FK-2002. Its a missing a whole numeral. I wonder when these were made, similar to the FK-2002's timeline? The FK-8000 is much more common, maybe a replacement?

[chyros]

Damn, that sure as hell needs wikification xD .

Wow yea. It was relisted for cheaper so I think ill pick up the 3001 and fix it up.

Yeah go for it, it's not a lot for a white Alps keyboard with this many switches and doubleshot keycaps. Even if the calc is absolutely shot.

And its made in Taiwan. So better build quality and almost guaranteed SKCM Whites since its early.

If you look closely you can see slits and tabs on it, so yeah, should be SKCM White.

Got it, time to celebrate!

Will be completely restoring this one, full cleanup + retrobright etc and getting the calculator back up and running. From the pics that battery didn't leak so thank god for that. Otherwise I will replace the liquid crystal display and stuff like that, there are very few fully working calculator FK's, and I want this one to work being so rare. The wiki on it will soon not be so bare. There seems to be a great deal of mystery on this board.

Cool, let us know what you find .

Will do. The serial number on the back in the pic's seems really different from the ones ive seen and the one on you FK-2002. Its a missing a whole numeral. I wonder when these were made, similar to the FK-2002's timeline? The FK-8000 is much more common, maybe a replacement?

The FK-8000 is the 2nd-gen successor of the FK-3001. It was in turn succeeded by the 3rd-gen FK-8200.

[Mattr567]

Damn, that sure as hell needs wikification xD .

Wow yea. It was relisted for cheaper so I think ill pick up the 3001 and fix it up.

Yeah go for it, it's not a lot for a white Alps keyboard with this many switches and doubleshot keycaps. Even if the calc is absolutely shot.

And its made in Taiwan. So better build quality and almost guaranteed SKCM Whites since its early.

If you look closely you can see slits and tabs on it, so yeah, should be SKCM White.

Got it, time to celebrate!

Will be completely restoring this one, full cleanup + retrobright etc and getting the calculator back up and running. From the pics that battery didn't leak so thank god for that. Otherwise I will replace the liquid crystal display and stuff like that, there are very few fully working calculator FK's, and I want this one to work being so rare. The wiki on it will soon not be so bare. There seems to be a great deal of mystery on this board.

Cool, let us know what you find .

Will do. The serial number on the back in the pic's seems really different from the ones ive seen and the one on you FK-2002. Its a missing a whole numeral. I wonder when these were made, similar to the FK-2002's timeline? The FK-8000 is much more common, maybe a replacement?

The FK-8000 is the 2nd-gen successor of the FK-3001. It was in turn succeeded by the 3rd-gen FK-8200.

Thanks for the info, this will be great for the wiki. So it seems it was similar to the FK-2002's timeline. First they laucned the FK-555, then launched with the 2001, 3001, and 2002 in 1988, and soon dropped SKCM Blue, then  later dropped the 2002 and 3001 and kept making changes to the 2001. The 5001 and 2000 Plus came in 1990 while bringing in the 8000 in 1991. Finally the 9001 in '92. Cool 

Wonder where mine fits in, seems to be between '88 and '91. Fullcreams w/ SKCM Blue must be between '88 and '89ish.

[chyros]

*many quotes*
I'm somewhat of a Focus nut so I've looked into quite a lot of Focus keyboards. Here's the generations I've divided them into so far:

0th gen (we don't know exactly when these were, just that they were before the others):
555, 747
1st gen:
1001, 2000plus, 2001, 2002, 3001, 5001
2nd gen:
6000, 7000P, 8000, 9000
3rd gen:
6200, 7200, 8200, 9200

Rough succession line:

2001   ->   6000   ->   6200
2001   ->   2001   ->   2001
7000P ->   7200
5001   ->   9000   ->   9200

0th gen are all blue Alps and occasionally cyan Omnoms. 1st gen were originally blue Alps but went through to white Alps which most of them are. 2nd gen came with white Alps originally but after that clones and even occasionally completely different switch types like Futabas. 3rd gen are Focus dome with slider. The FK-2001 appears to have transcended way past its own generation and bled into the 2nd and probably even the 3rd generation, probably as a "classic" model, a bit like Unicomp's Ultra Classic Model M which runs alongside their current one. By that time it had gone from a 101-key AT/XT keyboard with genuine Alps switches, doubleshot keycaps and a built-in dust cover to a 104-key PS/2 keyboard with some fairly vile clones, partially pad-printed keycaps and they left out the dust cover as well - a major decline of such an awesome keyboard.

Of course there are many gaps in my knowledge as well, but this is what I've found so far. The one who knows most about Focus is probably Engicoder, he has even more than I do xD .

[Mattr567]

*many quotes*
I'm somewhat of a Focus nut so I've looked into quite a lot of Focus keyboards. Here's the generations I've divided them into so far:

0th gen (we don't know exactly when these were, just that they were before the others):
555, 747
1st gen:
1001, 2000plus, 2001, 2002, 3001, 5001
2nd gen:
6000, 7000P, 8000, 9000
3rd gen:
6200, 7200, 8200, 9200

Rough succession line:

2001   ->   6000   ->   6200
2001   ->   2001   ->   2001
7000P ->   7200
5001   ->   9000   ->   9200

0th gen are all blue Alps and occasionally cyan Omnoms. 1st gen were originally blue Alps but went through to white Alps which most of them are. 2nd gen came with white Alps originally but after that clones and even occasionally completely different switch types like Futabas. 3rd gen are Focus dome with slider. The FK-2001 appears to have transcended way past its own generation and bled into the 2nd and probably even the 3rd generation, probably as a "classic" model, a bit like Unicomp's Ultra Classic Model M which runs alongside their current one. By that time it had gone from a 101-key AT/XT keyboard with genuine Alps switches, doubleshot keycaps and a built-in dust cover to a 104-key PS/2 keyboard with some fairly vile clones, partially pad-printed keycaps and they left out the dust cover as well - a major decline of such an awesome keyboard.

Of course there are many gaps in my knowledge as well, but this is what I've found so far. The one who knows most about Focus is probably Engicoder, he has even more than I do xD .

Damn, you got it down my friend. Yea, thats the way everything went, a slow decline in quality. Nice I got a rare 1st gen with the common (but still great) SKCM White. All I need now is a dust cover for my 3001, maybe ebay has some. When did they switch to China?

[chyros]

*many quotes*
I'm somewhat of a Focus nut so I've looked into quite a lot of Focus keyboards. Here's the generations I've divided them into so far:

0th gen (we don't know exactly when these were, just that they were before the others):
555, 747
1st gen:
1001, 2000plus, 2001, 2002, 3001, 5001
2nd gen:
6000, 7000P, 8000, 9000
3rd gen:
6200, 7200, 8200, 9200

Rough succession line:

2001   ->   6000   ->   6200
2001   ->   2001   ->   2001
7000P ->   7200
5001   ->   9000   ->   9200

0th gen are all blue Alps and occasionally cyan Omnoms. 1st gen were originally blue Alps but went through to white Alps which most of them are. 2nd gen came with white Alps originally but after that clones and even occasionally completely different switch types like Futabas. 3rd gen are Focus dome with slider. The FK-2001 appears to have transcended way past its own generation and bled into the 2nd and probably even the 3rd generation, probably as a "classic" model, a bit like Unicomp's Ultra Classic Model M which runs alongside their current one. By that time it had gone from a 101-key AT/XT keyboard with genuine Alps switches, doubleshot keycaps and a built-in dust cover to a 104-key PS/2 keyboard with some fairly vile clones, partially pad-printed keycaps and they left out the dust cover as well - a major decline of such an awesome keyboard.

Of course there are many gaps in my knowledge as well, but this is what I've found so far. The one who knows most about Focus is probably Engicoder, he has even more than I do xD .

Damn, you got it down my friend. Yea, thats the way everything went, a slow decline in quality. Nice I got a rare 1st gen with the common (but still great) SKCM White. All I need now is a dust cover for my 3001, maybe ebay has some. When did they switch to China?

The China plant is a bit of a mystery to me. It appears they started off at the Taiwan ROC plant which also made all the Omnikeys - the "missing link" Northgate FK-555 pretty much sealed together all the other evidence on that. The China plant seems to have been separate, but kept using genuine white Alps until much later than other plants. Alps switch production and keyboard assembly is all but a complete mystery at this point though, we've been trying to piece it together in a discussion on DT but we haven't much much at all so far.

[khronokrator]

Yeah, it's all very interesting if you have a historian's mindset. What's curious is that the FK-8000 and FK-9000 seem to have been contemporaneous, yet the 9000 seems to have generally shipped with authentic bamboo SKCM White Alps, whereas the 8000 used clones. Possibly assembled at different factories?

Likewise, the 5001 also seems to have come with SKCMs, not SKBMs or clones, despite being possibly one of the latter generations. It's very weird.

[chyros]

Yeah, it's all very interesting if you have a historian's mindset. What's curious is that the FK-8000 and FK-9000 seem to have been contemporaneous, yet the 9000 seems to have generally shipped with authentic bamboo SKCM White Alps, whereas the 8000 used clones.

Negatory, many many 9000s used clones! Or sometimes even clones and genuine Alps at the same time, though that went for the 8000 as well.

Focus definitely used what was lying around. Engicoder has an FK-8000 from '92 with Futabas that actually uses GENUINE GREEN ALPS for the lock light switches. Those greens aren't from the 90s or even the late 80s though as they're the grey switchplate version, so they're probably '85-'88.

[khronokrator]

Well, that's unfortunate. I just grabbed an FK-9000 off eBay for a decent price on the premise it had SKCMs (since the one cap the seller had pulled clearly showed bamboo switches).

If it's a hodgepodge I'll be greatly disappointed. 

[Mattr567]

Well, that's unfortunate. I just grabbed an FK-9000 off eBay for a decent price on the premise it had SKCMs (since the one cap the seller had pulled clearly showed bamboo switches).

If it's a hodgepodge I'll be greatly disappointed. 

Good luck my friend.

*many quotes*
I'm somewhat of a Focus nut so I've looked into quite a lot of Focus keyboards. Here's the generations I've divided them into so far:

0th gen (we don't know exactly when these were, just that they were before the others):
555, 747
1st gen:
1001, 2000plus, 2001, 2002, 3001, 5001
2nd gen:
6000, 7000P, 8000, 9000
3rd gen:
6200, 7200, 8200, 9200

Rough succession line:

2001   ->   6000   ->   6200
2001   ->   2001   ->   2001
7000P ->   7200
5001   ->   9000   ->   9200

0th gen are all blue Alps and occasionally cyan Omnoms. 1st gen were originally blue Alps but went through to white Alps which most of them are. 2nd gen came with white Alps originally but after that clones and even occasionally completely different switch types like Futabas. 3rd gen are Focus dome with slider. The FK-2001 appears to have transcended way past its own generation and bled into the 2nd and probably even the 3rd generation, probably as a "classic" model, a bit like Unicomp's Ultra Classic Model M which runs alongside their current one. By that time it had gone from a 101-key AT/XT keyboard with genuine Alps switches, doubleshot keycaps and a built-in dust cover to a 104-key PS/2 keyboard with some fairly vile clones, partially pad-printed keycaps and they left out the dust cover as well - a major decline of such an awesome keyboard.

Of course there are many gaps in my knowledge as well, but this is what I've found so far. The one who knows most about Focus is probably Engicoder, he has even more than I do xD .

Damn, you got it down my friend. Yea, thats the way everything went, a slow decline in quality. Nice I got a rare 1st gen with the common (but still great) SKCM White. All I need now is a dust cover for my 3001, maybe ebay has some. When did they switch to China?

The China plant is a bit of a mystery to me. It appears they started off at the Taiwan ROC plant which also made all the Omnikeys - the "missing link" Northgate FK-555 pretty much sealed together all the other evidence on that. The China plant seems to have been separate, but kept using genuine white Alps until much later than other plants. Alps switch production and keyboard assembly is all but a complete mystery at this point though, we've been trying to piece it together in a discussion on DT but we haven't much much at all so far.

Interesting. Every corner you take with Alps leads to another mystery!

[khronokrator]

Good luck my friend.

Thank you, good sir. It appears my fears were unfounded... sort of?

It came in today, and while I haven't completely removed all of the caps, I removed the keycaps from a random number of switches across the keyboard and they all seem to be 'genuine' bamboo White Alps. Weirdly, the F switches in the top row feel different and seem to be an upside-down logo variant of bamboo Alps I've never seen before, which makes me suspect they might be clones.

But really, none of the supposed bamboo Alps on this keyboard feel anything like the switches on my Silitek, which was basically NIB when I got it. The Silitek's have a completely different sound and much richer tactile feedback, whereas the switches on the Focus just have a simple bump and click that reminds me a lot of Matias switches... yet they appear to be the same. Wear and tear, or just clever clones?

I need Chyros' expertise on this. 

[jacobolus]

Take a picture of a disassembled switch and someone can tell you what it is.

[Mattr567]

Good luck my friend.

Thank you, good sir. It appears my fears were unfounded... sort of?

It came in today, and while I haven't completely removed all of the caps, I removed the keycaps from a random number of switches across the keyboard and they all seem to be 'genuine' bamboo White Alps. Weirdly, the F switches in the top row feel different and seem to be an upside-down logo variant of bamboo Alps I've never seen before, which makes me suspect they might be clones.

But really, none of the supposed bamboo Alps on this keyboard feel anything like the switches on my Silitek, which was basically NIB when I got it. The Silitek's have a completely different sound and much richer tactile feedback, whereas the switches on the Focus just have a simple bump and click that reminds me a lot of Matias switches... yet they appear to be the same. Wear and tear, or just clever clones?

I need Chyros' expertise on this. 

The upside down logo means the switch is soldered in upside down! The PCB must have them the other way around for the top tow. Pretty sure they are legit but post a picture! They probably need to be cleaned.

[khronokrator]

It's weird. They feel absolutely fine, no grittiness or stickiness whatsoever, like you'd typically associate with dirty Alps. Just not nearly as good as some of my other SKCMs.





Obviously it needs a good cleaning, though I don't have such great luck with switch disassembly/reassembly. 

Still, the thing is ridiculously interesting, like all weird Focus boards are.

Edit: Suppose it's really academic at this point. I finally got around to testing this thing aaaand... the calculator works perfectly, but the keyboard itself does not. No keys register. So, basically the same problem that most of the rest of the internet has with these boards.

[Mattr567]

It's weird. They feel absolutely fine, no grittiness or stickiness whatsoever, like you'd typically associate with dirty Alps. Just not nearly as good as some of my other SKCMs.

Show Image

Show Image

Obviously it needs a good cleaning, though I don't have such great luck with switch disassembly/reassembly. 

Still, the thing is ridiculously interesting, like all weird Focus boards are.

Edit: Suppose it's really academic at this point. I finally got around to testing this thing aaaand... the calculator works perfectly, but the keyboard itself does not. No keys register. So, basically the same problem that most of the rest of the internet has with these boards.

Huh, wonder what would be wrong with it, normally the board always works but the calculator doesn't.

Yeah, it's all very interesting if you have a historian's mindset. What's curious is that the FK-8000 and FK-9000 seem to have been contemporaneous, yet the 9000 seems to have generally shipped with authentic bamboo SKCM White Alps, whereas the 8000 used clones.

Negatory, many many 9000s used clones! Or sometimes even clones and genuine Alps at the same time, though that went for the 8000 as well.

Focus definitely used what was lying around. Engicoder has an FK-8000 from '92 with Futabas that actually uses GENUINE GREEN ALPS for the lock light switches. Those greens aren't from the 90s or even the late 80s though as they're the grey switchplate version, so they're probably '85-'88.

Hey, found another solar panel one on ebay, just our luck to find another! The seller is asking too much though and won't pull a cap, but says its some type of white alps. Its not new, and the calculator also doesn't work. Not really better than the other but if someone wants one. http://www.ebay.com/itm/152033948974 Cleaner though.

[khronokrator]

I think Chyros had a similar problem a while back. In this board, the calculator works fine and the display is perfect, but the rest of the keyboard isn't sending any scan codes.

If I use a second keyboard and press the Caps/Num/Scroll lock keys, the lock lights do light up on the 9000. But there's no response from anything else when in KB mode, though, so... sigh. 

Does it actually need a battery for the keyboard itself to work? Seems unlikely, but it's all I have. The seller did note that the original was removed because it had started to leak and corrode the housing...

I'm really getting sick of DOA keyboards.

[Mattr567]

I think Chyros had a similar problem a while back. In this board, the calculator works fine and the display is perfect, but the rest of the keyboard isn't sending any scan codes.

If I use a second keyboard and press the Caps/Num/Scroll lock keys, the lock lights do light up on the 9000. But there's no response from anything else when in KB mode, though, so... sigh. 

Does it actually need a battery for the keyboard itself to work? Seems unlikely, but it's all I have. The seller did note that the original was removed because it had started to leak and corrode the housing...

I'm really getting sick of DOA keyboards.

Sorry man

What does the PCB look like? Its there any bad capacitors? Anything on the electronics at all? That is the cause of your problem, its very unlikely all of the switches are bad.

[khronokrator]

The PCB is really hard to get at because the case is clamped together (which I hate) and the calculator's display is directly attached to the top plastic shell.

I'll give it a look, but I have zero knowledge of electrical stuff.

[Mattr567]

The PCB is really hard to get at because the case is clamped together (which I hate) and the calculator's display is directly attached to the top plastic shell.

I'll give it a look, but I have zero knowledge of electrical stuff.

Otherwise there is no hope of getting it going. When you get all the clamps off, just lift the top off a bit and disconnect the display. Ill have to be doing this soon when my 3001 arrives tomorrow Look for anything damaged PCB traces or blown/leaking capacitors. Post some pics as well.

[khronokrator]

You're right, of course. Pics forthcoming:









Only obvious signs of problems are the dried battery acid where the battery normally sits, to my untrained eyes at least.

One thing you can't see in these pictures is that the PCB itself is actually bent around the calculator area to a slight but alarming degree:

[Mattr567]

You're right, of course. Pics forthcoming:

Show Image

Show Image

Show Image

Show Image

Only obvious signs of problems are the dried battery acid where the battery normally sits, to my untrained eyes at least.

One thing you can't see in these pictures is that the PCB itself is actually bent around the calculator area to a slight but alarming degree:

Show Image

Looks ok to me, can't see any obvious flaws other than the bent PCB 0.0

What you could do is check for any bad looking solder joints. If they all look ok try reflowing all the solder joints anyway, things might have gone bad since the PCB is bent. Also is it in AT mode? If so move the switch back and forth a bit. I'm not sure on other settings of that board but make sure everything is set up correctly with the dip switches.

[khronokrator]

I don't think the FK-9000 has DIP switches, unfortunately. The solder joints look and feel pretty good, it just seems that something's wrong with the logic or circuitry somewhere. Seems to be a pretty common problem with these calculator keyboards; Focus' fairly cheap build quality really shows up here. Disappointing, because this keyboard has a lot of charm and I was looking forward to using it.

[jacobolus]

It's weird. They feel absolutely fine, no grittiness or stickiness whatsoever, like you'd typically associate with dirty Alps. Just not nearly as good as some of my other SKCMs.

It is probably an SKCM switch, but that doesn’t look quite like the “pine” SKCM top housing numbering I’ve seen before. It might well be a “bamboo” era switch with a slightly misleading top. In any event, it’s one of the later switches, more like 1993 than 1990. (The chips in your pictures are numbered to indicate they were produced sometime in 1992.)

Edit: Cf. https://deskthority.net/post147137.html#p147137 and scroll down a bit for a pic of a switch that looks like yours

[Mattr567]

I don't think the FK-9000 has DIP switches, unfortunately. The solder joints look and feel pretty good, it just seems that something's wrong with the logic or circuitry somewhere. Seems to be a pretty common problem with these calculator keyboards; Focus' fairly cheap build quality really shows up here. Disappointing, because this keyboard has a lot of charm and I was looking forward to using it.

Uhh, you took a picture of one.

[khronokrator]

That's not a DIP switch, it's the XT/AT switch.

If I'm using incorrect terminology, my bad. Moving it X number of times has no effect whatsoever, though.

[jacobolus]

A DIP switch, per se, looks something like this:


The switch on the keyboard is, generically, a slide switch, but isn’t a DIP switch.

[Mattr567]

That's not a DIP switch, it's the XT/AT switch.

If I'm using incorrect terminology, my bad. Moving it X number of times has no effect whatsoever, though.

Oh, well that's what I meant 

Anyway it seems 9000's particularly are very unreliable. Chyros has one that does the same exact thing, and a YouTube video shows another one again having the same exact issue.

Here is Chyros's thread https://geekhack.org/index.php?topic=69376.0

[chyros]

I see my name being called out a couple of times, here I am xD .

There is a simple answer to why you're preferring the new Silitek Alps ones to the SKCM whites; the conditions aren't comparable . SKCM White should in fact feel much more tactile and defined than SKCM black. Your version is pine btw, not bamboo (the blacks will be bamboo). Even if you think you can't tell they feel dirty, when an Alps board looks like that, it doesn't feel the same; I know this all too well. Your SKCM whites are dirty!

An AT/XT switch I think may be a kind of DIP switch. Focus also used DIP switches on some boards to set the protocol, and most boards include a cutout under the badge, at the rear, or under one of the feet for one, even if it doesn't use it.

Note that your SKCM whites are actually from a different batch than other Alps switches are, they're from the hand-written one. I have an NTC (probably made by the same people in the same plant) with the same style of switches. Because those are quite badly used I can't rule out that they feel different compared to other Alps switches, but frankly I really see no reason why it should. The upside-down ones are almost certainly soldered in the other way around; some other Focus boards do this too. That said, I think these hand-written ones could come with the writing upside down too.

As for the batteries; yes, actually it will probably need them. The FK-9000 doesn't work without batteries because of a rather silly power routing design issue - I accidentally scrapped a 9000 that I thought was unsalvageable, this way. It's very possible the 3001 needs them as well. Make sure to clean the acid off the terminals and then replace them with some fresh batteries of the same specs.

The other 3001 already went btw xD .

[khronokrator]

Hey Chyros, it turns out one of the terminals on my board was so corroded that one of the wires simply broke off at the slightest application of pressure while I was taking the board apart. Can it be resoldered, or am I SOL? 

Ah man, it'll take a while to get one of those batteries, too.

[chyros]

Hey Chyros, it turns out one of the terminals on my board was so corroded that one of the wires simply broke off at the slightest application of pressure while I was taking the board apart. Can it be resoldered, or am I SOL? 

Ah man, it'll take a while to get one of those batteries, too.

That's pretty normal. The wires the terminals are connected by are pretty flimsy anyway. Focus cases are pretty hard to open (you need to SLIDE rather than pull) and there's not a lot of slack on them so they often come off immediately. Of course you can resolder them, it's just metal to metal .

It looks like a standard size battery, but they're probably nicads rather than metal hydride batteries. Those aren't made in the western world anymore, but I managed to import some replacement nicads for another Focus board I own from China. Takes ages to arrive, but worked in the end . If you have a battery with the appropriate voltage you can jury rig the terminals of the battery to those of the calculator (make sure you connect the right ends!) and then see if that makes the keyboard work. If it does, order some proper batteries from China, that's how I did it.

I have a project tangent to this in the works, about which I'll be making a full report at some point in the future .

[Mattr567]

Hey Chyros, it turns out one of the terminals on my board was so corroded that one of the wires simply broke off at the slightest application of pressure while I was taking the board apart. Can it be resoldered, or am I SOL? 

Ah man, it'll take a while to get one of those batteries, too.

That's pretty normal. The wires the terminals are connected by are pretty flimsy anyway. Focus cases are pretty hard to open (you need to SLIDE rather than pull) and there's not a lot of slack on them so they often come off immediately. Of course you can resolder them, it's just metal to metal .

It looks like a standard size battery, but they're probably nicads rather than metal hydride batteries. Those aren't made in the western world anymore, but I managed to import some replacement nicads for another Focus board I own from China. Takes ages to arrive, but worked in the end . If you have a battery with the appropriate voltage you can jury rig the terminals of the battery to those of the calculator (make sure you connect the right ends!) and then see if that makes the keyboard work. If it does, order some proper batteries from China, that's how I did it.

I have a project tangent to this in the works, about which I'll be making a full report at some point in the future .

Do they have to be nicad?

I see my name being called out a couple of times, here I am xD .

There is a simple answer to why you're preferring the new Silitek Alps ones to the SKCM whites; the conditions aren't comparable . SKCM White should in fact feel much more tactile and defined than SKCM black. Your version is pine btw, not bamboo (the blacks will be bamboo). Even if you think you can't tell they feel dirty, when an Alps board looks like that, it doesn't feel the same; I know this all too well. Your SKCM whites are dirty!

An AT/XT switch I think may be a kind of DIP switch. Focus also used DIP switches on some boards to set the protocol, and most boards include a cutout under the badge, at the rear, or under one of the feet for one, even if it doesn't use it.

Note that your SKCM whites are actually from a different batch than other Alps switches are, they're from the hand-written one. I have an NTC (probably made by the same people in the same plant) with the same style of switches. Because those are quite badly used I can't rule out that they feel different compared to other Alps switches, but frankly I really see no reason why it should. The upside-down ones are almost certainly soldered in the other way around; some other Focus boards do this too. That said, I think these hand-written ones could come with the writing upside down too.

As for the batteries; yes, actually it will probably need them. The FK-9000 doesn't work without batteries because of a rather silly power routing design issue - I accidentally scrapped a 9000 that I thought was unsalvageable, this way. It's very possible the 3001 needs them as well. Make sure to clean the acid off the terminals and then replace them with some fresh batteries of the same specs.

The other 3001 already went btw xD .

Yea saw that. I'll test out the battery theory for sure. Maybe that's why the solar version also has a battery, they didn't want to make a different pcb for it.