Author Topic: WYSE PCE 840358-01 keyboards....  (Read 16476 times)

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Offline shawn o

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WYSE PCE 840358-01 keyboards....
« on: Tue, 20 March 2012, 20:44:40 »
Great deal on ebay for keyboard with doubleshots. I think?  Just picked one up. Hopefully they are doubleshots and the keys aren't too faded or worn. Will try the peroxide soak if they are discolored.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/PCE-Keyboard-WYSE-840358-01-/330705266496?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item4cff91e740

Offline bavman

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WYSE PCE 840358-01 keyboards....
« Reply #1 on: Tue, 20 March 2012, 20:55:51 »
Definitely double-shot

Offline dorkvader

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« Reply #2 on: Tue, 20 March 2012, 21:20:28 »
oh HELL yeah.

I like WYSE, and the price is right. My moogle kits will work out!

Now to order 1 or two.

Offline wompwomp

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WYSE PCE 840358-01 keyboards....
« Reply #3 on: Wed, 21 March 2012, 02:15:33 »
Are these the THICK wyse keycaps?

Offline Tarkoon

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WYSE PCE 840358-01 keyboards....
« Reply #4 on: Wed, 21 March 2012, 04:47:28 »
I love these boards!

Offline robat

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WYSE PCE 840358-01 keyboards....
« Reply #5 on: Wed, 21 March 2012, 05:43:24 »
Quote from: wompwomp;552220
Are these the THICK wyse keycaps?

I just received two of these from that seller and they are the thin keycaps.  They are definitely going to require a good cleaning.  They both have paint on some keys.

Offline Findecanor

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« Reply #6 on: Wed, 21 March 2012, 06:01:43 »
Quote from: wompwomp;552220
Are these the THICK wyse keycaps?
No. The thick key caps are on the Wyse ASCII terminal keyboards.
On the other hand, more key caps on this keyboard are compatible with a modern keyboard.

BTW, These PCE keyboards are not PC-compatible. They work on terminals only.
I have heard that the case in this keyboard is really well made, supposedly even better made than in the PC-compatible PCE keyboards (flat above the function keys).
« Last Edit: Wed, 21 March 2012, 06:04:30 by Findecanor »
🍉

Offline sth

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« Reply #7 on: Wed, 21 March 2012, 10:11:30 »
Bazinga.

Or whatever. I'm just happy my WYSE moogles will have some company.
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Offline ed_avis

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« Reply #8 on: Wed, 21 March 2012, 10:51:52 »
The seller also has a few IBM Selectric typewriters for sale.

Offline dorkvader

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« Reply #9 on: Wed, 21 March 2012, 13:41:43 »
Quote from: ed_avis;552481
The seller also has a few IBM Selectric typewriters for sale.

Good prices, but the fact that none work is off-putting.

I have a spare correcting selectric II that I don't want, but won't it cost $40+ to ship?

Offline shawn o

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« Reply #10 on: Wed, 21 March 2012, 14:21:20 »
Wow, guess we cleaned him out!

I bought last night and got tracking from the seller already.

Offline Quarzac

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« Reply #11 on: Wed, 21 March 2012, 15:28:29 »
I just got mine. The caps were a little yellowed, but I'm gonna try to retrobrite them. The paint or whatnot came off with a dental tab soak.
Risen from the dead for a model F.

Wyse buy colors were GSY for the dark grey, GBA for the light grey, and BBI for the fonts.

Offline sth

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« Reply #12 on: Wed, 21 March 2012, 15:30:19 »
Quote from: Quarzac;552780
I just got mine. The caps were a little yellowed, but I'm gonna try to retrobrite them. The paint or whatnot came off with a dental tab soak.
Please post pictures if you do! I'll pick up some retrobrite if it goes well.
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Offline AKIMbO

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« Reply #13 on: Wed, 21 March 2012, 15:58:50 »
Quote from: sth;552781
Please post pictures if you do! I'll pick up some retrobrite if it goes well.

Request x2...mine shipped today and I'm curious the condition yours was in upon arrival.
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Offline shawn o

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« Reply #14 on: Wed, 21 March 2012, 17:37:28 »
Soak in 6% hydrogen peroxide?

Offline AKIMbO

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« Reply #15 on: Wed, 21 March 2012, 19:20:08 »
Quote from: shawn o;552891
Soak in 6% hydrogen peroxide?

12% hydrogen peroxide and leave in the sun light.
Mkawa Beta SSK | IBM SSK | IBM Model AT F | IBM F 122 | IBM Unsaver | LZ-GH (62g ergo clears) | HHKB Pro2 Type-S | HHKB Pro2 | Realforce 87U-Silent (55g uniform) | Leopold FC660C | Omnikey 101 (blue alps) | Kingsaver (blue alps) | Zenith ZKB2 (green alps)
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Offline Quarzac

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« Reply #16 on: Wed, 21 March 2012, 19:48:40 »
Alright, I took a couple pictures.
[ Attachment Invalid Or Does Not Exist ] 45235[/ATTACH] [ Attachment Invalid Or Does Not Exist ] 45236[/ATTACH]
[ Attachment Invalid Or Does Not Exist ] 45237[/ATTACH] [ Attachment Invalid Or Does Not Exist ] 45238[/ATTACH]
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One had the flash accidentally go off. It looks kinda spooky.
Risen from the dead for a model F.

Wyse buy colors were GSY for the dark grey, GBA for the light grey, and BBI for the fonts.

Offline dorkvader

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« Reply #17 on: Wed, 21 March 2012, 20:58:25 »
Those don't look that yellowed to me.
---
My extremely yellowed set, I got some 3% H2O2 at the store, and boiled it down to ~12%, then added liquid oxyclean, and left it under our kitchen fluorescent light for a week.

I was very happy with the result, though they're now a little whiter than they should be, and the blue is a little paler, it's pretty excellent.

Offline Quarzac

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« Reply #18 on: Wed, 21 March 2012, 21:53:03 »
They're not terribly yellowed at all. The undersides are lighter though. I wish the blue was more blue. It just looks like black in my room.
Risen from the dead for a model F.

Wyse buy colors were GSY for the dark grey, GBA for the light grey, and BBI for the fonts.

Offline bavman

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« Reply #19 on: Wed, 21 March 2012, 23:39:20 »
Looks like you got a nice set quarzac, doesn't seem to have any shine at all

Offline Quarzac

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« Reply #20 on: Thu, 22 March 2012, 00:08:46 »
It pays to send the seller a message sometimes! At the very least it won't do any harm.
Risen from the dead for a model F.

Wyse buy colors were GSY for the dark grey, GBA for the light grey, and BBI for the fonts.

Offline noGG

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« Reply #21 on: Tue, 27 March 2012, 23:50:35 »
I kind of a bad set, unfortunately. :( I don't have access to a good enough camera to show the defects properly but a lot of the keycaps had what seemed like some sort of paint that is really hard to get off. It kinda looks like dyesub printed weird stains on some of them. =/ Also, I have a REALLY odd problem with the bottom arrow key. On my Leopold FC200R it always falls off the bottom arrow switch, but if I put it anywhere else or if I put a key cap in that switch it's perfectly fine. Anyone know a good way to clean the stains and deal with the bottom arrow key problem?

Offline robat

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« Reply #22 on: Wed, 28 March 2012, 08:12:35 »
Quote from: noGG;558834
I kind of a bad set, unfortunately. :( I don't have access to a good enough camera to show the defects properly but a lot of the keycaps had what seemed like some sort of paint that is really hard to get off. It kinda looks like dyesub printed weird stains on some of them. =/ Also, I have a REALLY odd problem with the bottom arrow key. On my Leopold FC200R it always falls off the bottom arrow switch, but if I put it anywhere else or if I put a key cap in that switch it's perfectly fine. Anyone know a good way to clean the stains and deal with the bottom arrow key problem?

One of the two i received had the same problems with the paint on the keys.  I gave the keys a warm bath and then used a toothpick to scrape the paint off.  On one key the paint appears to have etched the key.  Luckily it was from the number pad.  The second keyboard was dusty but the keys were in near perfect condition.

Offline 500_pts

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« Reply #23 on: Wed, 28 March 2012, 13:57:52 »
just ordered 2 of them for hazeluff and myself, will post pics when i receive them and clean them.
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Offline akerasi

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« Reply #24 on: Wed, 28 March 2012, 14:05:21 »
Ordered myself one... will also post pics after receiving/cleaning it up.
Owns, no particular order:
Ricercar SPOS (Variable Force Mod number 3), 122-key IBM terminal board (future project to learn a Teensy), 1993 IBM Model M, Dell AT101W, 3x Cherry G80-8200LPBUS (2 in pieces, 1 modded to Ghetto Reds), Cherry G80-1190HRMIT(Variable Force Mod), Wang 724 Terminal Keyboard (Pink Alps), Cherry G84-4100, Cherry G81-LUMUS, a pile of random old ALPS Macintosh boards in poor condition.
Wants:
Odd keyswitch boards for cheap (NEC sliders, space invaders, other weird stuff), Cherry Blues for cheap

Offline shawn o

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« Reply #25 on: Wed, 28 March 2012, 14:41:25 »
Got mine today, no shine on any keys! The one key is oddly yellow though. Is the 12% Hydrogen Peroxide the best way to fix it?


Offline MyNameIsFinn

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« Reply #26 on: Wed, 28 March 2012, 15:42:24 »
Just bought one, now to buy some WYSE Moogle Keys
[SIGPIC][/SIGPIC]

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Offline AKIMbO

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« Reply #27 on: Wed, 28 March 2012, 15:46:24 »
Quote from: shawn o;559507
Got mine today, no shine on any keys! The one key is oddly yellow though. Is the 12% Hydrogen Peroxide the best way to fix it?

Show Image

Wow yours is in excellent condition compared to the one I received.  Mine was so freaking yellow...thank god I only got it for the dark grey keys.
Mkawa Beta SSK | IBM SSK | IBM Model AT F | IBM F 122 | IBM Unsaver | LZ-GH (62g ergo clears) | HHKB Pro2 Type-S | HHKB Pro2 | Realforce 87U-Silent (55g uniform) | Leopold FC660C | Omnikey 101 (blue alps) | Kingsaver (blue alps) | Zenith ZKB2 (green alps)
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Offline 500_pts

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« Reply #28 on: Wed, 28 March 2012, 16:01:00 »
Quote from: MyNameIsFinn;559554
Just bought one, now to buy some WYSE Moogle Keys

i think the wyse moogle kit gb got closed like ten days ago, let me know if you find out otherwise, because i will need some :P
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Offline robat

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« Reply #29 on: Wed, 28 March 2012, 16:56:24 »
Quote from: 500_pts;559579
i think the wyse moogle kit gb got closed like ten days ago, let me know if you find out otherwise, because i will need some :P

I think the moogle kit GB is in a holding pattern.  PM the organizer.  He might still be taking orders since he has not put the order in yet.

Offline sth

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« Reply #30 on: Wed, 28 March 2012, 17:58:46 »
Just got mine today - hello yellow. Relatively little paint though!
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Offline shawn o

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« Reply #31 on: Wed, 28 March 2012, 20:13:26 »
Got some 30% H2O2 today at the beauty supply store. They even had 40% but I decided against that. Mixed some up on a glass jar with just a bit of Oxy Clean.

Is this the right approach? Left it out in the sun this evening for about an hour and noticed a bit of whitening already. Should I remove the cap and do it again tomorrow in the sun or could I just let it soak overnight indoors?

Offline dorkvader

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« Reply #32 on: Thu, 29 March 2012, 00:21:33 »
Be careful removing them. Peroxide DOES burn. I went with a little lower percentage (and much longer time). Maybe pour home H2O into it and let it sit overnight? I had mine near the only fluorescent light in the apartment (in a jar) for a week.

Offline shawn o

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« Reply #33 on: Thu, 29 March 2012, 17:04:31 »
Before: (` and ~ key)



Same key after overnight soak!



Soaking them all now just to clean em up!

Offline sth

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« Reply #34 on: Thu, 29 March 2012, 17:17:01 »
Nice, that turned out great. I think I'll soak mine again, overnight instead of for an hour or so.
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Offline AKIMbO

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« Reply #35 on: Thu, 29 March 2012, 17:23:09 »
Did you leave it out in the sun or just soaked it in hydrogen peroxide?
Mkawa Beta SSK | IBM SSK | IBM Model AT F | IBM F 122 | IBM Unsaver | LZ-GH (62g ergo clears) | HHKB Pro2 Type-S | HHKB Pro2 | Realforce 87U-Silent (55g uniform) | Leopold FC660C | Omnikey 101 (blue alps) | Kingsaver (blue alps) | Zenith ZKB2 (green alps)
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Offline sth

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« Reply #36 on: Thu, 29 March 2012, 17:24:08 »
Quote from: AKIMbO;560834
Did you leave it out in the sun or just soaked it in hydrogen peroxide?
In the sun, but I didn't have much hydrogen peroxide so they were all in a jar. Also didn't have much direct sunlight available by the time I got home...
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Offline AKIMbO

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« Reply #37 on: Thu, 29 March 2012, 17:25:34 »
Quote from: sth;560835
In the sun, but I didn't have much hydrogen peroxide so they were all in a jar. Also didn't have much direct sunlight available by the time I got home...

Lol...I was asking shawn o.
Mkawa Beta SSK | IBM SSK | IBM Model AT F | IBM F 122 | IBM Unsaver | LZ-GH (62g ergo clears) | HHKB Pro2 Type-S | HHKB Pro2 | Realforce 87U-Silent (55g uniform) | Leopold FC660C | Omnikey 101 (blue alps) | Kingsaver (blue alps) | Zenith ZKB2 (green alps)
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Offline sth

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« Reply #38 on: Thu, 29 March 2012, 17:26:13 »
Haha, gotcha. Assuming they weren't in the sun as he said he soaked them overnight.
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Offline shawn o

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« Reply #39 on: Thu, 29 March 2012, 17:31:23 »
I had it in the sun today while I was at work but mainly overnight in the garage in the dark. I don't think the sun does anything other than heat the solution maybe?

Offline dorkvader

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« Reply #40 on: Fri, 30 March 2012, 14:16:58 »
Mine arrived friday: slightly yellowed, but no paint or anything. I'll have to buy some H2O2 later :p

I'm out of town, but pictures will be forthcoming if I remember when I get back.

---
Edit: I am pretty sure putting it in the sun is for getting more UV radiation, which I assume speeds the reaction (That's also the reason to put it under a fluorescent light.)

I'm not sure if this is actually the case, though.

Offline sth

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« Reply #41 on: Fri, 30 March 2012, 14:23:18 »
Yeah, I soaked mine overnight. There was a little change but not a dramatic difference. I'll try and do them in a large bowl in the sun this weekend... but for now the shiny mint-condition caps from demik look VERY nice on my leopold :)
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Offline Internetlad

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« Reply #42 on: Fri, 30 March 2012, 14:53:15 »
Quote from: dorkvader;561758
I am pretty sure putting it in the sun is for getting more UV radiation, which I assume speeds the reaction (That's also the reason to put it under a fluorescent light.)

I'm not sure if this is actually the case, though.

I remember reading a write up from the "creators" of retr0brite and it had said that indeed, the UV Radiation causes the yellowing in the first place and, for some reason, also removes the yellowing effect when mixed with the retr0brite/Hydrogen peroxide.
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Offline dorkvader

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« Reply #43 on: Sun, 01 April 2012, 01:04:36 »
I'm certain it's some crazy chemical thing. I understand the reason the UV causes hardening and yellowing of the polymer in the first place, but I certainly don't have enough chemistry knowlege to understand why it works for the bleaching process.

Offline poxeclipse

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« Reply #44 on: Mon, 02 April 2012, 17:31:47 »
Quote from: noGG;558834
I kind of a bad set, unfortunately. :( I don't have access to a good enough camera to show the defects properly but a lot of the keycaps had what seemed like some sort of paint that is really hard to get off. It kinda looks like dyesub printed weird stains on some of them. =/ Also, I have a REALLY odd problem with the bottom arrow key. On my Leopold FC200R it always falls off the bottom arrow switch, but if I put it anywhere else or if I put a key cap in that switch it's perfectly fine. Anyone know a good way to clean the stains and deal with the bottom arrow key problem?
For paint, try some  isopropyl alcohol, 50%. Just keep rubbing the keycap. Be careful with PrintScreen and Pause, they have printed sides, and the alcohol will remove that paint too.
« Last Edit: Mon, 02 April 2012, 17:47:58 by poxeclipse »

Offline poxeclipse

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« Reply #45 on: Mon, 02 April 2012, 17:37:38 »
Quote from: Quarzac;553090
They're not terribly yellowed at all. The undersides are lighter though. I wish the blue was more blue. It just looks like black in my room.
The keycaps on Wyse 840358-1 are light beige. The legends look black, but are dark navy.
Same for 840338-01.
On 840358-13, the keycaps are ligth grey. The legends look closer to blue, lighter than those on 840358-1.
Most of them are made in Taiwan, but some in China.
« Last Edit: Mon, 02 April 2012, 17:44:45 by poxeclipse »

Offline dorkvader

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« Reply #46 on: Wed, 04 April 2012, 00:51:00 »
I think that's just yellowing differences on the plastic, instead of different manufacturing colours.

The best legends are the ones I retrobrited, they look a little more "blue".

Offline 500_pts

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« Reply #47 on: Thu, 05 April 2012, 21:00:25 »
[ Attachment Invalid Or Does Not Exist ] 47524[/ATTACH]

One retrobrited, one not.

I will be continuing to soak these overnight/tomorrow, and maybe stepping up to 12% h202


Used 6% h202 with 1/4 teaspoon of whatever the hell kind of oxy clean i have per 500ml
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Offline MyNameIsFinn

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« Reply #48 on: Fri, 06 April 2012, 15:00:53 »
I got my keyboard today, I don't see any shine whatsoever, they are a bit dirty so I have em soaking in some oxi-clean, now time to find wyse moogle kit.
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Offline Tranquilite

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« Reply #49 on: Sun, 08 April 2012, 02:42:44 »
I bought one of these as well, I got a board with the most unbelievably yellowed plastic I have ever seen (a number of keys had paint on them too). Retr0bright has already removed at least 90% of the yellowing though. Should have taken some pictures as the difference is shocking. I'm already formulating plans for what to do with the switches and plate.

Offline shawn o

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« Reply #50 on: Sun, 08 April 2012, 19:21:32 »
I ordered a soldering iron and desoldering tool. Going to use the plate to practice my desoldering skills!

Bought a Weller WES51, a ETP tip, and Edsyn DS017 desoldering tool.
« Last Edit: Sun, 08 April 2012, 19:29:54 by shawn o »

Offline postlapsaetia

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« Reply #51 on: Tue, 17 April 2012, 14:15:57 »
Just got one of these in the mail, from a different seller. I was pretty excited, but the home row, enter and backspace are pretty damn shiny, also it's pretty nasty under the caps. Soaking the caps now. Whatever.

Offline lowkey

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« Reply #52 on: Thu, 19 April 2012, 18:16:33 »
Here are mine after a good soak

[ Attachment Invalid Or Does Not Exist ] 48618[/ATTACH]
[ Attachment Invalid Or Does Not Exist ] 48619[/ATTACH]