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geekhack Community => Keyboards => Topic started by: Smarix on Sat, 09 January 2021, 04:43:31
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Hello!
So I ordered the KBD8X MKII and just wondered if there is something important I need to have in mind.
I want to use ISO-DE layout and as far I understood it, the PCB supports it. Do I need to program anything or can I just solder the switches at the correct places and windows will automatically use ISO-DE as soon as I connect it?
Also I'm thinking of using Mill-Max Hot-Swap Sockets ( https://keygem.store/products/mill-max-hot-swap-sockets?variant=36531902054566 ). Is there anything worse compared to just solder the switches? I think the PCB being able to be hot-swappable is something nice to have if I decide to change switches in the future or not?
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The KBD8X does support ISO so all good there, ISO is the physical layout (big enter, small left shift) but the keyboard doesn't know what the keycaps say so you have to set your operating system to DE - if you already did that for your current keyboard it will just work.
Mill-Max sockets don't fit in every PCB as the holes have to be slightly bigger than necessary, I don't know about this one. Switches aren't designed to be used in sockets and the sockets are designed for round pins, it works but soldered is a more reliable connection. That's why Gateron invented hot swaps specifically designed for switches (but you need a board designed specially for them) With soldered you do have to desolder to swap switches and that's not fun. Only you know if you're the type of person to want to do that rather than getting another board. Hopefully you love your first build and it's a non issue :)
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Ok, nice. Thank you.
I wanted to buy a hot-swappable PCB but it seems rather rare specially as TKL and ISO and then it also needs to be able to fit into the case. So the Gateron sockets are buyable as well, but they probably won't work on this PCB that comes with the case?
I assume I won't change the switches anytime soon, but when there is normally nothing worse to hot-swappable I don't see a reason to not have it.
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If the Mill-Max sockets fit, you want to put them on the switch and then use that to align it into the pcb.
I would basically build the entire board before soldering to avoid bind, something that happens more often with hot swaps.
Also, just so you know, this will be EXTREMELY tedious, too much solder you ruin the socket. You will want a good, temp controlled iron for this as it;s one less thing to worry about.
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Mhh ok. Thank you. I probably go without sockets than I guess.
For soldering 350° is best, right?
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Mhh ok. Thank you. I probably go without sockets than I guess.
For soldering 350° is best, right?
for soldering the lowest the better, test with your iron and solder, i usually start at 290-300°C and climb up when i test new solder, you want it to melt fast and easy, once you are there you should not need to go higher (higher would likely only make your tip degrade faster and increase the risks of damaging the pcb) my latest solder seems to work good at 320°C on most "jobs" although i had to go up to 360°C on some grounds to compensate for the low mass of my iron.
TL;DR: yeah 350°C should work fine for 99% of the cases, just do not stay on a pad for 5 minutes at a time :)
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Ok, so my case and PCB arrived and I just testes the PCB.
Is it normal that the switch for enter on ISO layout needs to be rotated 90° to the right?
And my > seems not to work (on ISO it's right to the left shift). If I activate it the # key is activated on the online keyboard tester. Any idea why?
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The enter switch is fine, there's a big hole in the cap so it wont hit. The keytester seeing the wrong key is also fine, you'll need to flash firmware with that key doing what you want. If it didn't activaate any key it would be broken.
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What do u mean with "there's a big hole in the cap so it wont hit."?
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Switches have slopes on the front and back so they don't hit keycaps, if you turn a small key sideways it doesn't work but Enter is
wider taller so this is not a problem.