Author Topic: [GB] ComPact SQ - 1800 Inspired [COMPLETE] (Read 304152 times)

onmybikedrunk · « **Reply #1250 on:** Fri, 17 June 2016, 18:16:11 »

Quote from: rondg on Thu, 16 June 2016, 07:38:01

Hi guys. I need some help. So I was finally able to play with the pcb and the jigon software. After a few seconds of connecting, 2 of the rgb leds are now magenta. It should be white. I also noticed that not all have the same brightness/warmth.

How can I fix this?

This happened to me too. According to Leeku there were some defects with the solder on these LEDs. Reflow the solder and you should be fine. If they don't work after the reflow, then order freshies from Digi-Key or Mouser. It's part number is WS2812B

MrDaddio · « **Reply #1251 on:** Fri, 17 June 2016, 18:29:49 »

Anyone have a link for a comparable replacement screw?

Willyc277 · « **Reply #1252 on:** Fri, 17 June 2016, 20:33:10 »

Looking for a pair of duck feet for my board, anyone know if they are the same across all boards that use them? Or are they specifically made for each board?

Thanks

Edit: got one!!! Thanks Elaeagnifolia!!!

rondg · « **Reply #1253 on:** Fri, 17 June 2016, 22:24:24 »

Quote from: onmybikedrunk on Fri, 17 June 2016, 18:16:11

Quote from: rondg on Thu, 16 June 2016, 07:38:01
Hi guys. I need some help. So I was finally able to play with the pcb and the jigon software. After a few seconds of connecting, 2 of the rgb leds are now magenta. It should be white. I also noticed that not all have the same brightness/warmth.

How can I fix this?

This happened to me too. According to Leeku there were some defects with the solder on these LEDs. Reflow the solder and you should be fine. If they don't work after the reflow, then order freshies from Digi-Key or Mouser. It's part number is WS2812B

I contacted Leeku and he said that I may have a bad led. But I will definitely try reflowing first. Thanks for the tip!

Zibob · « **Reply #1254 on:** Sat, 18 June 2016, 05:43:45 »

Quote from: MrDaddio on Fri, 17 June 2016, 18:29:49

Anyone have a link for a comparable replacement screw?

Yes I would love one too, I was looking around on ebay and other site RC car guys have them in some colours, most commonly blue, red and orange. COuld not find lime green or purple. I only want the purple now.

MrDaddio · « **Reply #1255 on:** Sat, 18 June 2016, 07:09:15 »

Quote from: Zibob on Sat, 18 June 2016, 05:43:45

Quote from: MrDaddio on Fri, 17 June 2016, 18:29:49
Anyone have a link for a comparable replacement screw?

Yes I would love one too, I was looking around on ebay and other site RC car guys have them in some colours, most commonly blue, red and orange. COuld not find lime green or purple. I only want the purple now.

Do you have a link for some orange ones?

Zibob · « **Reply #1256 on:** Sun, 19 June 2016, 18:19:57 »

Quote from: MrDaddio on Fri, 17 June 2016, 18:29:49

Do you have a link for some orange ones?

Also I am nto 100% on the size, pretty sure they are M3 and that is all goos with T6? 3mm machine thread and 12-14mm long, I think. Can someone else confirm.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Yeah-Racing-Aluminum-7075-3x12mm-Hex-Socket-Flat-Head-Screws-Orange-AHF-312OR-/381497271486?hash=item58d30264be

EDIT: I think i have nearly found my purple screws, but these are a little pink.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Yeah-Racing-Aluminum-7075-3x12mm-Hex-Socket-Flat-Head-Screws-Pink-Car-AHF-312PK-/381486324816?hash=item58d25b5c50

EDIT some more: A link to a bunch of screws, there are a few colours in there including GOLD! if you wanna go full hedonismbot on it.
http://stores.ebay.com/rcmart/Screws-Nuts-/_i.html?_fsub=1402750&_sid=42095710&_trksid=p4634.c0.m322

drewba · « **Reply #1257 on:** Mon, 20 June 2016, 14:43:32 »

Hi Leeku, I sent you an email on June 11th about not receiving translucent top/bottom pieces in my last package. Can you let me know if I need to do anything to get those?

Dansor · « **Reply #1258 on:** Tue, 21 June 2016, 16:36:18 »

Hi,

I'm running into a small problem that I'm hoping someone might have some insight into.

I installed switches to support a split backspace key (2 keys instead of one centered key), but neither those keys nor the extra key above them (to the right on F12) are functional. The LEDs function, and I can't see anything that would account for the issue. I've re-soldered, and it all looks good, including the diodes, etc.

Has anyone run this layout successfully?

I'll probably just replace the diodes next and see what happens.

It doesn't appear that any code is being sent when I actuate those keys.

Thanks

Dansor

suicidal_orange · « **Reply #1259 on:** Tue, 21 June 2016, 16:52:10 »

Quote from: Dansor on Tue, 21 June 2016, 16:36:18

Hi,

I'm running into a small problem that I'm hoping someone might have some insight into.

I installed switches to support a split backspace key (2 keys instead of one centered key), but neither those keys nor the extra key above them (to the right on F12) are functional. The LEDs function, and I can't see anything that would account for the issue. I've re-soldered, and it all looks good, including the diodes, etc.

Has anyone run this layout successfully?

I'll probably just replace the diodes next and see what happens.

It doesn't appear that any code is being sent when I actuate those keys.

Thanks

Dansor

The one near the numberpad is connected on both pins to the fullsize backspace so that switch should just work and it does on my board with the latest default firmware. The inner switch position does not send a code so I don't think it's mapped - I'd fire up jigon and see if a random switch lights up when you press it before getting out the soldering iron.

Dansor · « **Reply #1260 on:** Wed, 22 June 2016, 11:59:53 »

Quote from: suicidal_orange on Tue, 21 June 2016, 16:52:10

The one near the numberpad is connected on both pins to the fullsize backspace so that switch should just work and it does on my board with the latest default firmware. The inner switch position does not send a code so I don't think it's mapped - I'd fire up jigon and see if a random switch lights up when you press it before getting out the soldering iron.

Nothing lights up when any of those three switches are hit in any combination, so I'm thinking it's a hardware thing.
I was just hoping someone would have a magical solution for me, like some obscure layer combination option or something. You know... magic...

Thanks for the input though

I'd just swap the 2 backspace key out for a single standard backspace key, but a can't squeeze the stabilizer for it in there without de-soldering a ton of LEDs and switches

Dansor · « **Reply #1261 on:** Wed, 22 June 2016, 12:05:50 »

Actually, that did give me a thought. Maybe I'll manually run a wire from those 3 switches to three unused switch pads.
I'm currently using a 1.25x-1.25x-1.25x-6.25x-1x-1x-1x layout. I could probably just run a wire down to the two split-space keys, if those are actually different from the normal space key, which I think they are. Will need to take a look. That would at least take care of two of the keys.

And maybe for the third I can just wire to the standard backspace key. That would be cool. Will need to try it tonight.

Thanks

redbanshee · « **Reply #1262 on:** Wed, 22 June 2016, 14:42:23 »

Quote from: Dansor on Wed, 22 June 2016, 12:05:50

Actually, that did give me a thought. Maybe I'll manually run a wire from those 3 switches to three unused switch pads.
I'm currently using a 1.25x-1.25x-1.25x-6.25x-1x-1x-1x layout. I could probably just run a wire down to the two split-space keys, if those are actually different from the normal space key, which I think they are. Will need to take a look. That would at least take care of two of the keys.

And maybe for the third I can just wire to the standard backspace key. That would be cool. Will need to try it tonight.

Thanks

This probably wont really help you but try this just incase

https://geekhack.org/index.php?topic=76617.msg2157673#msg2157673

suicidal_orange · « **Reply #1263 on:** Wed, 22 June 2016, 15:06:23 »

Quote from: Dansor on Wed, 22 June 2016, 11:59:53

Quote from: suicidal_orange on Tue, 21 June 2016, 16:52:10
The one near the numberpad is connected on both pins to the fullsize backspace so that switch should just work and it does on my board with the latest default firmware. The inner switch position does not send a code so I don't think it's mapped - I'd fire up jigon and see if a random switch lights up when you press it before getting out the soldering iron.

Nothing lights up when any of those three switches are hit in any combination, so I'm thinking it's a hardware thing.
I was just hoping someone would have a magical solution for me, like some obscure layer combination option or something. You know... magic...

Thanks for the input though

I'd just swap the 2 backspace key out for a single standard backspace key, but a can't squeeze the stabilizer for it in there without de-soldering a ton of LEDs and switches

If you're soldering the top pin of all thrre of those positions are connected to the top pin of 0 next door, and the lower pins connect to the left side of the diode below them - that would look tidier.

The switch above also connects to the top row on the top pins, and the bottom pin goes to the left of the diode below, not the one slightly right.

If you do solder them to other positions in the matrix you need to make sure they are completely isolated from their old positions which isn't easy.

meiosis · « **Reply #1264 on:** Wed, 22 June 2016, 21:01:34 »

Came to my attention that leeku has completed all the assembly and shipping.

Group buy is now COMPLETE

And big shout out to everyone who joined and supported Leeku's first GB

.

Some bumps ( assembly ) but I'd say it's been one of the smoothest buys in the past year!

calvinhousecat · « **Reply #1265 on:** Wed, 22 June 2016, 22:01:43 »

Yes it was! Thanks again Leeku for taking the late newbies like me. My CPSQ is fantastic, my new favorite board

ceflame · « **Reply #1266 on:** Wed, 22 June 2016, 22:06:43 »

Thanks to Meiosis and Leeku for bringing this awesome board

. Full-size too long, 96 layout looks funky, compact-1800 layout BEST.
Only thing I'm sad about is expecting to perfect my board with the replacement tops, but both came cracked.

Kempher · « **Reply #1267 on:** Thu, 23 June 2016, 16:34:34 »

Just got my new SKIDATA to go with this board and it looks great!

suicidal_orange · « **Reply #1268 on:** Thu, 23 June 2016, 16:42:24 »

Quote from: Kempher on Thu, 23 June 2016, 16:34:34

Just got my new SKIDATA to go with this board and it looks great!

Show Image

Damn that looks good, love the matching Slo-Fi peeking over the top!

onmybikedrunk · « **Reply #1269 on:** Sat, 25 June 2016, 12:00:39 »

Pliny · « **Reply #1270 on:** Sat, 06 August 2016, 15:55:02 »

I've collected L3 software/JigOn tips from this thread, Google translate and Github, so here is my attempt at English documentation for Leeku's software:

L3 Software and JigOn

Now at version 1.04.

Feedback appreciated!

redbanshee · « **Reply #1271 on:** Sat, 06 August 2016, 16:43:49 »

Quote from: Pliny on Sat, 06 August 2016, 15:55:02

I've collected L3 software/JigOn tips from this thread, Google translate and Github, so here is my attempt at English documentation for Leeku's software:

L3 Software and JigOn

Early version. Feedback appreciated!

This is awesome and much needed. Thanks for doing that! Nothing to add off the top of my head but I will look again

Baddy126 · « **Reply #1272 on:** Wed, 17 August 2016, 20:21:05 »

Quote from: Pliny on Sat, 06 August 2016, 15:55:02

I've collected L3 software/JigOn tips from this thread, Google translate and Github, so here is my attempt at English documentation for Leeku's software:

L3 Software and JigOn

Early version. Feedback appreciated!

Thanks a lot for this! Is there a way to dim in-switch LEDs?

meiosis · « **Reply #1273 on:** Wed, 17 August 2016, 20:45:05 »

Quote from: Baddy126 on Wed, 17 August 2016, 20:21:05

Quote from: Pliny on Sat, 06 August 2016, 15:55:02
I've collected L3 software/JigOn tips from this thread, Google translate and Github, so here is my attempt at English documentation for Leeku's software:

L3 Software and JigOn

Early version. Feedback appreciated!

Thanks a lot for this! Is there a way to dim in-switch LEDs?

Would need to calculate the resistance you need but it isn't possible through software I believe..

Baddy126 · « **Reply #1274 on:** Sat, 20 August 2016, 16:57:52 »

Sometimes the keyboard will connect but most of the time the keyboard won't connect... does anyone know how to fix this?

gaiden · « **Reply #1275 on:** Sat, 20 August 2016, 17:16:43 »

Quote from: Baddy126 on Sat, 20 August 2016, 16:57:52

Sometimes the keyboard will connect but most of the time the keyboard won't connect... does anyone know how to fix this?

Have you tried a different cable? Or plug it to another USB?

Sent from my SM-G900T using Tapatalk

Baddy126 · « **Reply #1276 on:** Sat, 20 August 2016, 18:13:24 »

Quote from: gaiden on Sat, 20 August 2016, 17:16:43

Quote from: Baddy126 on Sat, 20 August 2016, 16:57:52
Sometimes the keyboard will connect but most of the time the keyboard won't connect... does anyone know how to fix this?
Have you tried a different cable? Or plug it to another USB?

Sent from my SM-G900T using Tapatalk

Yes I've used 2 different cables. Sometimes they work but most of the time they don't

Pliny · « **Reply #1277 on:** Sat, 20 August 2016, 20:11:28 »

Quote from: Baddy126 on Sat, 20 August 2016, 16:57:52

Sometimes the keyboard will connect but most of the time the keyboard won't connect... does anyone know how to fix this?

When you say "connect," is that connect at all for typing, or connect to customize/flash it?

I'd say:
- try a different USB port
- try holding down 'U' as you plug it in
- flash it to the latest firmware if you're not certain it's already up to date

as starter ideas

Baddy126 · « **Reply #1278 on:** Sun, 21 August 2016, 01:50:59 »

Quote from: Pliny on Sat, 20 August 2016, 20:11:28

Quote from: Baddy126 on Sat, 20 August 2016, 16:57:52
Sometimes the keyboard will connect but most of the time the keyboard won't connect... does anyone know how to fix this?

When you say "connect," is that connect at all for typing, or connect to customize/flash it?

I'd say:
- try a different USB port
- try holding down 'U' as you plug it in
- flash it to the latest firmware if you're not certain it's already up to date

as starter ideas

I can connect "for typing" but i cannot connect to "customize/flash it"

I tried holding down "U" to plug it in and it's already flashed to the latest firmware

Edit: I used a different port and it connected fine. Thanks for your help!! It was much appreciated!!!

Baddy126 · « **Reply #1279 on:** Sun, 21 August 2016, 01:55:50 »

Quote from: Meiosis on Wed, 17 August 2016, 20:45:05

Quote from: Baddy126 on Wed, 17 August 2016, 20:21:05
Quote from: Pliny on Sat, 06 August 2016, 15:55:02
I've collected L3 software/JigOn tips from this thread, Google translate and Github, so here is my attempt at English documentation for Leeku's software:

L3 Software and JigOn

Early version. Feedback appreciated!

Thanks a lot for this! Is there a way to dim in-switch LEDs?

Would need to calculate the resistance you need but it isn't possible through software I believe..

Does the push leve havel no way to "set" a push level? It does seem like something can keep it at a certain brightness when i have it on that mode

r5d · « **Reply #1280 on:** Sun, 21 August 2016, 10:27:16 »

FINALLY finished building this thing! After forgetting to put in stabs before soldering (almost all) switches

and rebuilding, it is finished. Now I have mixed feelings towards it, because of all the frustration and effort. Even though it was my own fault in the first place. It has socketed Gateron greens.

Now to figure out how to program it...

xondat · « **Reply #1281 on:** Sun, 21 August 2016, 17:53:44 »

Quote from: r5d on Sun, 21 August 2016, 10:27:16

FINALLY finished building this thing! After forgetting to put in stabs before soldering (almost all) switches and rebuilding, it is finished. Now I have mixed feelings towards it, because of all the frustration and effort. Even though it was my own fault in the first place. It has socketed Gateron greens.

Now to figure out how to program it...

Looks good. Any other pictures?

kiwi99 · « **Reply #1282 on:** Tue, 23 August 2016, 11:28:34 »

Quote from: r5d on Sun, 21 August 2016, 10:27:16

FINALLY finished building this thing! After forgetting to put in stabs before soldering (almost all) switches and rebuilding, it is finished. Now I have mixed feelings towards it, because of all the frustration and effort. Even though it was my own fault in the first place. It has socketed Gateron greens.

Now to figure out how to program it...

looks sweet man, dolch sitting where it should be, on an 1800

iamtootallforthis · « **Reply #1283 on:** Mon, 05 September 2016, 15:09:39 »

Got my board built!

Anyone have an extra housing or just a board they want to sell?

naasfu · « **Reply #1284 on:** Mon, 05 September 2016, 15:17:14 »

Quote from: iamtootallforthis on Mon, 05 September 2016, 15:09:39

Got my board built!

Show Image

Show Image

Anyone have an extra housing or just a board they want to sell?

wow those look really great man.

iamtootallforthis · « **Reply #1285 on:** Mon, 05 September 2016, 15:18:51 »

Quote from: naasfu on Mon, 05 September 2016, 15:17:14

Quote from: iamtootallforthis on Mon, 05 September 2016, 15:09:39
Got my board built!

Show Image

Show Image

Anyone have an extra housing or just a board they want to sell?

wow those look really great man.

Thanks Naasfu! I am really loving the setup but don't look forward to changing out the PCB every time I want to change the switches.

nathanrosspowell · « **Reply #1286 on:** Mon, 05 September 2016, 15:44:32 »

Quote from: iamtootallforthis on Mon, 05 September 2016, 15:09:39

Got my board built!

Show Image

Show Image

Anyone have an extra housing or just a board they want to sell?

Both those themes are on point

iamtootallforthis · « **Reply #1287 on:** Mon, 05 September 2016, 15:46:17 »

Quote from: nathanrosspowell on Mon, 05 September 2016, 15:44:32

Quote from: iamtootallforthis on Mon, 05 September 2016, 15:09:39
Got my board built!

Show Image

Show Image

Anyone have an extra housing or just a board they want to sell?

Both those themes are on point

Thanks man! Can't wait to get my second PCB built with zealiostotles. I kinda want to see if I can get a steel plate from someone. Hell even another housing would be awesome.

clochette · « **Reply #1288 on:** Mon, 26 September 2016, 10:38:59 »

are we able to change the color of the numlock/capslock LED?

gaiden · « **Reply #1289 on:** Mon, 26 September 2016, 10:40:59 »

Ya just change the LEDs.. Would be easy if you already installed the SIP sockets

Sent from my SM-G900T using Tapatalk

skuko · « **Reply #1290 on:** Mon, 26 September 2016, 10:50:48 »

if any1 wants to sell one of these, pm me

xondat · « **Reply #1291 on:** Mon, 26 September 2016, 11:05:12 »

Quote from: skuko on Mon, 26 September 2016, 10:50:48

if any1 wants to sell one of these, pm me

I think att1cus wants to sell his, PM him/check his classified.

odd · « **Reply #1292 on:** Wed, 12 October 2016, 23:06:52 »

Does anyone have a extra set of duck feet they want to sell me? I'll pay extra

clochette · « **Reply #1293 on:** Mon, 16 January 2017, 15:38:54 »

my LEDs just died on me

hatran87 · « **Reply #1294 on:** Mon, 16 January 2017, 20:08:42 »

Quote from: clochette on Mon, 16 January 2017, 15:38:54

my LEDs just died on me

Ohhh me too, 4 leds died

Rodgaroon · « **Reply #1295 on:** Mon, 16 January 2017, 23:00:59 »

Quote from: hatran87 on Mon, 16 January 2017, 20:08:42

Quote from: clochette on Mon, 16 January 2017, 15:38:54
my LEDs just died on me

Ohhh me too, 4 leds died

I had 1 in-switch LED die.

ceflame · « **Reply #1296 on:** Mon, 16 January 2017, 23:35:48 »

Since this thread got bumped.. anyone want to buy one of the frosted acrylic tops (has a crack in the top left corner though).
I have an extra one laying around, and I've already sold my CP-SQ.


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Author Topic: [GB] ComPact SQ - 1800 Inspired [COMPLETE] (Read 304152 times)