NEW USERS, READ THIS!
0 Members and 1 Guest are viewing this topic.
why does my samurai sound like Japanese Batman?
I'm interested in ordering 3 Model F controllers if you're still accepting orders for round 3. Any idea on pricing for this round? I think I saw you say that you had tried a cheaper manufacturer, so I'm not sure if pricing has changed.
I thought replace original controller is only way to remapping AT keyboard.Thank you for useful information. I will try tensy first.
Quote from: HoffmanMyster on Sun, 19 October 2014, 21:19:44I'm interested in ordering 3 Model F controllers if you're still accepting orders for round 3. Any idea on pricing for this round? I think I saw you say that you had tried a cheaper manufacturer, so I'm not sure if pricing has changed. Yeah I was kind of tossing up about that... I am saving a few dollars on each board now, but my wife keeps telling me I'm selling them too cheap I think you're right though, I'll reprice the controllers at $45 each. I'd better get back to 0100010 to refund some of his super-speedy payment!3x controllers, blimey! What have you picked up?
My 107 is what I am working on now // I think I have determined that the windows key is LeftGUI (just manually edited the hex value for that key position in the layout file).Anyone know if the duration values matter for the 4704 buzzer?
Having a hell of a time soldering in my new controller. Any suggestions for getting all 30 wires into the new controller?
Quote from: Touch_It on Sun, 18 January 2015, 13:37:32Having a hell of a time soldering in my new controller. Any suggestions for getting all 30 wires into the new controller? Hm, I didn't have any particular issues especially as the holes are oversized and the cable is sufficiently stiff. When I did the xwhatsit for a friend, the original controller came off, then the new one just simply fit immediately. But basically, use some tweezers to line up the wires as horizontally as possible, with even spacing. Try your best not to stress the connection at the matrix pcb while you do this. Put the controller on the first few wires, and pinch them off using something like a binder clip perhaps. Then stuff the others in using tweezers as needed. Solder one or two pins as close as possible to the ribbon (again to reduce stress), then repeat on the other side. Solder middle pins, etc.
Yep, I use a Model-F-USB prototype in my PC-AT. That said, it would probably be cheaper and easier to use Soarer's converter, especially with those nifty inline converters I see popping up. I only use one in my PC-AT because it's handy for debugging (LEDs!) and "when all you have is a hammer..."
I ordered 10 Displaywriter PCBs just in case.I've got a reasonable amount of solenoid drivers left. You only need them for the solenoids or the Displaywriter's speaker (not that the speaker will be that exciting, it'll be like the original IBM unit in that it'll just click).