xwhatsit's Grand Unified IBM Capsense USB controller Order (Batch 3)

[HPE1000]

Ok, I can't keep waiting. Put me down for a Model F controller for my Kishsaver.

[xwhatsit]

CPTBadAss: You should do what Murium did over at Deskthority—he mapped his `s' key to where the right-control key would be on a `normal' keyboard until he got around to opening his Kishsaver and fixing the broken foot or whatever was troubling that key. The problem is he got way too used to pressing `s' with his right pinky )

HPE1000: Neat—I'll send you a PM on Friday with confirmation details etc. Cheers!

[CPTBadAss]

CPTBadAss: You should do what Murium did over at Deskthority—he mapped his `s' key to where the right-control key would be on a `normal' keyboard until he got around to opening his Kishsaver and fixing the broken foot or whatever was troubling that key. The problem is he got way too used to pressing `s' with his right pinky )

LOL that's hilarious. It's not that big of an issue for me to take such a drastic measure but thanks for the laugh

[xwhatsit]

All right, 15th today, so batch 2 is closed! All order confirmations sent out, hopefully everybody gets back to me quickly so I can place the orders on Monday morning.

The final totals:
10x Beamspring-USB-Rev4
2x Beamspring-Displaywriter-USB-Rev1
16x Model-F-USB-Rev2
12x Solenoid-Driver-Rev3
1x 3178-Adaptor

You might notice from the above list that there is a new version of the solenoid driver board; I have updated and improved it a bit. I now have the boost-converter flyback diode surface mounted, which I reckon must save $5 of swearing while bending leads and hand-soldering , so I have reduced the price to $20. LED is also an 0603 now; I don't know why 90% of LEDs are either 1206 or 0603, hardly any 0805s. Pic below:

[xwhatsit]

Have now ordered PCBs, and looks like they've all been assigned to the August 19th panel. That means should have them in my hand in two weeks or so.

Now need to order all the components.

There were a few extra orders after Friday, which I added to the batch (it's definitely finalised now though!), bringing the totals to:
11x Beamspring
2x Displaywriter
18x Model F
13x Solenoid Driver
2x 3178 Adaptor

[JaccoW]

Were there any plans to design one that would be compatible with an M13? The Trackpoint ones even if they needed to be swapped with a more modern one?

[xwhatsit]

M13s are Ms—so not capacitive, just ordinary old membrane; you don't need a special controller or hardware for that, you could do it directly with a Teensy if that's what fills your spinnaker. I'm not sure how those things read the trackpoint (in modern IBM/Lenovo Thinkpads it's a self-contained little unit that talks PS/2—yes, even on a brand-new X1). If it's a direct-read thing where you need to read the strain gauges, you might need a little bit of analogue hardware. That is, if you want to integrate it directly so you have a single USB cable.

I myself have no plans to start building non-capacitive controllers; I'm only doing the capacitive ones because I needed some for my crusty old beamsprings and nobody else was really getting on with developing a capacitive controller at the time (now there's the DPH controller underway for the Model Fs); I've had to keep making them as people keep wanting them. There's already a bunch of DIY Model M controllers out there, and I wouldn't have thought adding support for the trackpoint would be particularly complex.

[vivalarevolución]

Ok, I got the controller soldered in and working for the most part (your guide and software were great!).  But I am having some trouble accessing my alternative layout on the second layer.  I think it might have something to do with that whole Layer Conditions tab in your controller setup tool.

I have Base Layer set at QWERTY.
I have Layer 1 set at the navigation keys and F keys and such.
I have Layer 2 set at an alternative layout.

I want to access Layer 2 by pressing FN1 plus a key on Layer 1 set to "Select 2".  But no matter how I fiddle with the Layer Conditions tab, I can't seem to get it to work.

Any advice to get Layer 2 to show up?  I really would like to use my alternative layout.  QWERTY sucks.

[xwhatsit]

Nice job!

To get Layer 2 to come up when you press Fn1, do the following (probably best to clear what's on the layer conditions tab currently):
 - On the layer conditions tab, check the `Fn1' checkbox on the first row
 - On the same layer condition row, select Layer 2 in the combobox
 - Assign Fn1 to a key on base layer
 - Make sure the same key is also assigned to Fn1 on Layer 2

To hit any Fn keys or Select keys on Layer 1, you'll need to be able to get into Layer 1 first... so either another Fn key that goes to layer 1, or place Select 1 somewhere on base layer.

The keyboard only looks at one layer at a time for all scancodes including Fn/Select keys; normally this will be the base layer, until you push a Fn key or Select key on base layer to take it to a different layer (at which point it starts looking on the new layer for Fn/Select keys).

[vivalarevolución]

I cleared the Layer Conditions tab to follow your instructions. 

The method you described seemed to get the keyboard to only type the letters on Layer 2 when I was holding down the FN1 key on the base layer. Then I lost access to Layer 1. 

I am having some trouble following your instructions, but I think it is a problem with my comprehension of your instructions.

Even when I put Select 1 or Select 2 on a key in the base layer, the keyboard does not affix to Layer 1 or Layer 2.  For some reason, I cannot get the keyboard to stick to any other layer except the base layer.  Basically, I cannot get the keyboard to switch permanently to any other layer besides the base layer, regardless of what I do.

[xwhatsit]

Yes the Fn key just momentarily chooses the layer, it won't stick, as soon as you release the Fn key (or the Fn key causes it to switch to a layer where that key is no longer the same Fn scancode), then it will drop back to the `default' layer (which is normally the base layer, unless Select has selected a new layer).

So it sounds like you want Select more than Fn. The layer conditions stuff doesn't concern the Select keys, so let's not worry about that for the moment.

It's interesting it's not working though, even on the base layer. I have an idea though... what version does the utility say the firmware is? Obviously you'll be running the v0.7.0 util, as otherwise you wouldn't be able to set Select keys at all. However with the first batch I did ship a number of Model F controllers with the old v0.6.2 firmware (I hadn't written v0.7.0 yet); 0.6.2 doesn't have any knowledge of Select scancodes.

If you have out-of-date firmware, it's reasonably straightforward to update (you'll need to download Atmel FLIP though; there's a link in the installation manual). Just make sure you pick the right firmware otherwise you'll be having all sorts of fun

[vivalarevolución]

Yes the Fn key just momentarily chooses the layer, it won't stick, as soon as you release the Fn key (or the Fn key causes it to switch to a layer where that key is no longer the same Fn scancode), then it will drop back to the `default' layer (which is normally the base layer, unless Select has selected a new layer).

So it sounds like you want Select more than Fn. The layer conditions stuff doesn't concern the Select keys, so let's not worry about that for the moment.

It's interesting it's not working though, even on the base layer. I have an idea though... what version does the utility say the firmware is? Obviously you'll be running the v0.7.0 util, as otherwise you wouldn't be able to set Select keys at all. However with the first batch I did ship a number of Model F controllers with the old v0.6.2 firmware (I hadn't written v0.7.0 yet); 0.6.2 doesn't have any knowledge of Select scancodes.

If you have out-of-date firmware, it's reasonably straightforward to update (you'll need to download Atmel FLIP though; there's a link in the installation manual). Just make sure you pick the right firmware otherwise you'll be having all sorts of fun

Ok, the firmware does seem to be the problem.  Now I just have to figure out how to flash the firmware

[xwhatsit]

I haven't used Atmel FLIP myself (it's much easier using dfu-programmer on Linux), but this looks like a decent tutorial: https://code.google.com/p/micropendous/wiki/LoadingFirmwareWithFLIP

Don't worry about the pushbutton stuff, you just use `Enter bootloader' in the util software instead. Make sure to choose ATmega32U2 in FLIP instead of what they show.

[vivalarevolución]

I used the dfu-programmer on Mac OS.  It took some time and some profanities  (), but I got the latest version of the firmware on the controller and the "Select [layer#]" keys to work, even with the FN keys.  Thanks for the help. 

[xwhatsit]

Ahhh nice one. Sorry, didn't realise you were on UNIX too.

Glad you have it all set up nicely; interesting to see someone using the layers for a QWERTY and non-QWERTY pairing!

[vivalarevolución]

Ahhh nice one. Sorry, didn't realise you were on UNIX too.

Glad you have it all set up nicely; interesting to see someone using the layers for a QWERTY and non-QWERTY pairing!

What, there are not more people doing this?  QWERTY is awful and should be avoided like a Craigslist personals ad.

[CPTBadAss]

I was also considering using layers on this board to teach myself a new layout like colemak.

[vivalarevolución]

I was also considering using layers on this board to teach myself a new layout like colemak.

Do it!  The only downside in the break-in period, but once you have it mastered, there is no downside.

[HoffmanMyster]

I was also considering using layers on this board to teach myself a new layout like colemak.

Do it!  The only downside in the break-in period, but once you have it mastered, there is not downside.

I will more than likely try this as well.      Why not!   

[vivalarevolución]

Sorta news.  I may have played with the ribbon cable too much and broken one of the connections from the cable to the capacitive membrane.  Now the registering of the top row seems to be a little spotty. Is this fixable?  Am I screwed?

[xwhatsit]

Oh damn!

Yes fixable, but not without some swearing.

There's nothing special about the ribbon cable itself, and the capacitive “pad card” (IBM's term—or the membrane as you called it) is just another PCB. I broke the ribbon cable in my 122-key when I was doing a lot of mucking around during the first tests; I “fixed” it like this and believe it or not it works perfectly:


To get to the holes to actually solder new wires onto it I had to open the top plate/pad card/bottom plate sandwich up though, which is the point where you'll do at least 50% of the swearing. There should be a bunch of walkthroughs floating around (I know I've seen some on DT) on how to open up a Model F.

You may get lucky and find you can solder a single new wire on as a patch, which would be much simpler but maybe not as reliable long-term.

[CPTBadAss]

Hm...for my swap, I had minimal amounts of swearing as compared to other projects. Does that mean I did it wrong?

[xwhatsit]

If you didn't break the ribbon cable when you were installing it, then you were doing it right. Which is more than I managed to do the first time I did it

[vivalarevolución]

Oh damn!

Yes fixable, but not without some swearing.

There's nothing special about the ribbon cable itself, and the capacitive “pad card” (IBM's term—or the membrane as you called it) is just another PCB. I broke the ribbon cable in my 122-key when I was doing a lot of mucking around during the first tests; I “fixed” it like this and believe it or not it works perfectly:
(Attachment Link)

To get to the holes to actually solder new wires onto it I had to open the top plate/pad card/bottom plate sandwich up though, which is the point where you'll do at least 50% of the swearing. There should be a bunch of walkthroughs floating around (I know I've seen some on DT) on how to open up a Model F.

You may get lucky and find you can solder a single new wire on as a patch, which would be much simpler but maybe not as reliable long-term.

Thanks for the advice.  I have opened up and put back together a few Model F's, so i know what I am doing there.  Kishsavers are not too frustrating.

I was wondering if I could just attempt to resolder the broken connections with the setup as it is, but I know that may not be a reliable long term solution.

I am a little worried that I may have damaged a few other connections to the capacitive pad card, so it might be in my best interest to replace the whole ribbon cable.  I do not like the inflexibility of that ribbon cable, anyways.

Oddly enough, everything seems to working ok at the moment.


EDIT:  Oh yea, I definitely need to resolder the whole thing.  A few of those ribbon cable connections are looking a little weak.

Note to others:  Don't fiddle with the ribbon cable too much.  You will weaken the connections.


Any recommendations some good, durable wires to reconnect the capacitive pad card and controller?

[xwhatsit]

You can buy new 3.96mm ribbon cable, but it's not super cheap and is hard to find (3.96mm was once a really common pitch, but has fallen out of favour for obvious reasons (it's as wide as a bus)). Otherwise I'd just find some decent 0.5mm˛ stranded single core and try and make a tidier job than my green spaghetti pictured earlier.




The boards have arrived...


Also included for your potatophoto viewing pleasure is the new Rev3 solenoid driver board (now with sexy routed corners! OK, and some new stuff that make it cheaper and faster to assemble):

[snoopy]

that solenoid looks cute

[hwood34]

Does anyone know if these work with the 50 key Fs?

[vivalarevolución]

Does anyone know if these work with the 50 key Fs?

There is only one to find out...

[hwood34]

Does anyone know if these work with the 50 key Fs?

There is only one to find out...

I would if only I wasn't paying for shipping from hong kong

[xwhatsit]

The 50-key Model F does in fact work with this controller; the Model M won't of course. Maybe Soarer's converter is an option for that?

[The_Beast]

Does anyone know if these work with the 50 key Fs?

There is only one to find out...

I would if only I wasn't paying for shipping from hong kong

We should have gotten together and had them all shipped to someone

[xwhatsit]

Everything is now here, apart from some of the controller->solenoid driver ribbon cables, which Element14 only sent 4 out of 15, and said the rest would arrive in October. I don't think I've had an order from them in quite some time where everything went smoothly... No matter, will order some IDC connectors from RS and make my own damned cables.

First assembly day today! Managed to do all the surface-mount stuff—everything bar the edge connector, expansion header and grounding wire—on all 12 Beamspring controllers and both of the Displaywriter controllers.

I used a solder paste stencil for the first time, which was novel; even with all the aborted “prints” it was much easier than doing it by hand with the syringe, and produced much more consistent results, even with crappy paste “prints” on my behalf. I didn't bother purchasing a stencil just for the two Displaywriter controllers I had to do, and the contrast was marked. Well worth the money!

All of the above controllers are up and running over USB, apart from one Beamspring controller which needs some rework (one shift register inexplicably twisted 30°, fixable with a hot air gun); no drama, as that Beamspring controller is for me anyway

Hopefully I will be able to carry on tomorrow; will either finish off the Beamspring and Displaywriter controllers fully (need connectors soldered, some rework, testing, cleaning, then final testing) or will carry on with the reflow stuff by doing the Model F controllers.

[vivalarevolución]

The 50-key Model F does in fact work with this controller; the Model M won't of course. Maybe Soarer's converter is an option for that?

There is only one way to find out...

[xwhatsit]

Today I carried on with the baking, and managed to reflow all 17 Model F controllers (at least the 17 that aren't for mine ). All are booting the bootloader over USB; I can see a little bit of rework that needs to be done on some of them, but I think I'm getting better at this solder paste stencilling thing. It's saving a bunch of time.

The only remaining baking stuff I need to do now is the solenoid drivers, 14x of them. Of course I still have a bunch of work to do on the controllers; manual soldering of connectors, any rework, cleaning and testing. But making better progress than the first batch!

[xwhatsit]

Yay, finally done!



I did all the final soldering yesterday and the first round of testing today. For those boards that don't need cleaning (the Model F controllers), that's all they need. I've sent out PMs to all those who just ordered Model F controllers to say I'm ready to ship.

All that remains for the other controllers and the solenoid drivers is secondary post-cleaning testing. Looks like we're well ahead of schedule this time 

[xwhatsit]

They're all packed now (well apart from two people who haven't got back to me yet with addresses etc.). I conned my wife into helping me write labels, so if you notice unusually flowery handwriting on your address (and, disturbingly, my/our surname occasionally mispelled) then you'll know why

Off to cause a traffic jam at the post office tomorrow!

[xwhatsit]

Unfortunately for those who have paid and are waiting I didn't manage to hit the post office today—I planned to post everything after a 2–3pm meeting today; it turned into a 2–5pm meeting and the post office was closed . D'oh!

Sorry about the delay. I will head there first thing tomorrow morning!

[xwhatsit]

Everything in the mail now, apart from one Model F controller which is just awaiting payment. Relieved to get them away Hopefully everything was packaged up correctly and nobody will receive the wrong thing.

All controllers shipped are flashed with 0.7.1 firmware; it's basically the same as 0.7.0 but with a minor tweak to the autocalibration which was setting threshold a bit high. The 0.7.0 utility is still compatible with that firmware, so download that. I plan to start work on 0.8.0 (with macro support) in earnest soon.

Same as last time, there's installation manuals and pre-compiled binaries for the utilities over here: http://downloads.cornall.co/ibm-capsense-usb/

Thanks everyone!

[HPE1000]

Thank you xwhatsit

[HoffmanMyster]

I'm back in town and finally paid!   

[HPE1000]

Got it today, if everything goes as planned I will have a working kishsaver by the end of the day



Thank you xwhatsit 

[snoopy]

Got it today, if everything goes as planned I will have a working kishsaver by the end of the day

Show Image

Thank you xwhatsit  :thumb:

Have fun! That controller is just awesome. :D

Programming it and see how your kish finally reacts on keystrokes is totally awesome.

[xwhatsit]

Man there's some ugly soldering on that purple turd. I'd ask for my money back if I were you.

[HPE1000]

Got it today, if everything goes as planned I will have a working kishsaver by the end of the day

Show Image

Thank you xwhatsit  :thumb:

Have fun! That controller is just awesome. :D

Programming it and see how your kish finally reacts on keystrokes is totally awesome.

Man there's some ugly soldering on that purple turd. I'd ask for my money back if I were you.

Didnt know you could see my soldering already  :-[

:P

Typing this post on the kishsaver right now, I cant believe I am actually typing on it XD

[snoopy]

Typing this post on the kishsaver right now, I cant believe I am actually typing on it XD

I thought exactly the same

[HPE1000]

Perhaps I am terrible at reading, but I programmed the whole thing and was typing on it. Once I unplugged it and then plugged it back in, nothing had saved. What did I do wrong?

[Halvar]

There's that button "Store in EEPROM" in the USB tool ...   

[The_Beast]

I got mine today. Time to install on the tinsaver, unsaver and my 50 key F

[sleepy916]

I got mine too recently...soon kish, soon. Thanks Tom!

[Daspartic]

I just got my stuff today too.  Thanks for your awesome work Tom!