Post by: TheKeyCompany on Mon, 05 March 2018, 16:59:22
Latest updates:
Plate and PCBs are in stock and ready for purchase!
Nardo Grey Raffle Form (https://docs.google.com/forms/d/16Z7VcmWbLoMVcdxFNA0I1ttdMYzSWHzl02NPKSTST_Q/edit) I have 7 Nardo Grey in stock. This form will stay open until Monday, invoice will be sent at random, and you will have 24 hours to check out. Orders will be shipped by the deadline.
GB is 40% fulfilled! I expect all orders to be fulfilled by June 8.
International buyers: I will be sending you all an email this weekend regarding shipping. DHL raised my rates 300% so I am unable to ship DHL for what you were charged. I will send all international buyers an email this weekend to explain the situation better and tell you what that plan / options are. Sorry for the inconvenience, Im pretty upset about this situation. A shipment that used to cost me $38 now costs over $120.
TKC1800 has started shipping! The first dozen is going out today. I expect to ship 25-30 per day from here out. Should be completed by middle of next week.
Testing went smoothly, no issues.
We have a few plates and PCBs left in stock. However, orders are going to freeze until I get everything shipped out so that I can ensure everyone gets what they ordered and we have no mix ups.
When orders open back up we will have a few restocks and some new colors. That Nardo Grey (https://imgur.com/XsDJW8A) is looking mighty good!
Please excuse this transitionary time. I have moved out of my large office and into my basement to save on expenses as my wife an I recently opened a new business. I hope to still provide the level of service and quality of products you have come to expect from TKC. This buy is complicated and is going to take a little longer to ship than say, a GMK set.
[attachimg=3]
UPDATE 3/14/2018
We currently have remaining in stock: (As of 3/14/2018)
A Stock:
- 3 Stock Black (unpainted)
- 4 Gloss Orange
B Stock:
- 4 Gloss Orange
- 5 Matte Green
PCBs and Plates will be available at group buy price until 3/23/2018. We will accept pre orders after that at a slightly higher price. Once the pre-orders are gone, you'll have to wait until we get another run made.
Color Interest Check Form (https://goo.gl/forms/7PA3nO8qBVka7sIr2)
If youre interested in a kit, and were out of stock or its a color we havent made yet, please let us know using this form!
The Waitlist form is now closed. As cases come back from the paint shop I will contact those who filled it out. You will have 48 hours to respond and then your spot will go to the next person in line.
On the other hand
The PCB & PLATE ARE AVAILABLE (https://thekey.company/collections/tkc-1800/products/pcb-for-tkc-1800)
[attach=1][attach=2]
]The G80-1800 compatible QMK PCB is available during the GB and will remain open for a few weeks. We will stock the PCBs once they arrive. This is probably the best PCB for tinkering every released. Check out the product page!
Thanks for looking!
Post by: ghostjuggernaut on Wed, 07 March 2018, 00:51:55
As always, Caveat Emptor (https://geekhack.org/index.php?topic=36773.0).
Post by: punkpc on Wed, 07 March 2018, 11:13:00
Digging through the pictures on the site I found, Orange, Purple, Black & Grey. I could not find Green, Cyan, or Red. Can you post some pictures here or on the site of them?
Post by: TheKeyCompany on Wed, 07 March 2018, 12:06:09
Do you have pictures of all the plate colors?
Digging through the pictures on the site I found, Orange, Purple, Black & Grey. I could not find Green, Cyan, or Red. Can you post some pictures here or on the site of them?
No, some of the plates arent made yet. Im going to pantone match them. So Cyan will be close match to the Dolch PAC logo, and green will be close to GKM AE green.
Hope that helps.
Post by: punkpc on Wed, 07 March 2018, 12:21:16
Do you have pictures of all the plate colors?
Digging through the pictures on the site I found, Orange, Purple, Black & Grey. I could not find Green, Cyan, or Red. Can you post some pictures here or on the site of them?
Cyan will be close match to the Dolch PAC logo
That is what I needed! Going to be using your PCB and Plate in my Dolch PAC, so that is perfect! :thumb:
Thanks
Post by: iliketimex on Fri, 09 March 2018, 00:49:50
Post by: crtexcnndrm99 on Fri, 09 March 2018, 04:37:53
Post by: FearsomeCubedWarrior on Fri, 09 March 2018, 05:13:28
Post by: TheKeyCompany on Wed, 14 March 2018, 13:19:59
Is the upcoming color Honda Sonic blue pearl or Sonic gray pearl? There is a difference. The blue is an intense ultramarine blue and the gray is, well, gray.
Sonic Blue Pearl
[attach=1]
Post by: TheKeyCompany on Wed, 14 March 2018, 13:21:05
Do you have a colour sample of the Commando Green? (Did attempt to google and find it.. no success.) As you're aware, I'm waiting to order some parts too, just wanted to check the colour is what I was hoping :D
I dont, the color was called out in the PPG book at the shop as "Commando Green". Turns out, its called "Olive Green" and its a Jeep color. It looks like this
[attach=1]
Post by: TheKeyCompany on Wed, 14 March 2018, 13:26:31
What are those "minor imperfections" on a Matte Blue? Is it possible to order RGB LEDs or which ones should we source in case it's not?
Have you tested both underglow and in-switch LEDs together, is USB power enough? I'm asking this cause I've most likely burned UK78 using both in-switch and RGB leds and power consumption of 1800 should be more than UK78 one. I'm considering getting matte blue or Tanzanite blue for Laser.
What about color samples for plates?
Minor imperfections: Paint nibs. Small dust particles in the clear coat. In the matte colors we cannot wet sand / buff these out, so occasionally we are left with some small nibs.
RGBs: If installed in the TKC1800 case you wont see them. The pads were put on the PCB for a future design, or for use in an existing 1800 aluminum case, you know the one. The part number is WS2812B for the RGBs
Power consumption: The design we have is "dumb" in that it doesn't current limit. Unlike a BootMapper board it will allow for full tilt LEDs and RGBs.
Matte Blue and Tanzanite sold out pretty quickly. You'll have to join the waitlist (https://docs.google.com/forms/d/e/1FAIpQLScuO5pho0ogiQcJtA7mEGAmmWiUhl62_qO1osKyXwNE4rD1LA/viewform) if you want one of those colors, sorry.
The other plate colors I do not have color samples. The green will closely match GMK AE green (Terminal) and the cyan will match the Dolch logo color.
Post by: popkorn62 on Wed, 14 March 2018, 14:15:29
Post by: unmuscular_michael on Thu, 15 March 2018, 11:16:10
Post by: TheKeyCompany on Thu, 15 March 2018, 17:29:12
The i2c option could be pretty sweet. I am thinking of adding an accelerometer and being able to move the mouse by lifting and tilting the keyboard. Because I can.
That’s the most creative application I’ve heard yet!
DO IT
The whole point was to see what people could dream up. Report back once you’ve done it!
Post by: Firebolt1914 on Sat, 17 March 2018, 16:54:04
Post by: Puddsy on Sun, 18 March 2018, 22:09:06
I had heard that the PCB can replace the Leeku MX1800 PCB. Would this be correct?
since they're both 1800 clones i don't see why not
Post by: ghostjuggernaut on Sun, 18 March 2018, 22:14:59
I had heard that the PCB can replace the Leeku MX1800 PCB. Would this be correct?
since they're both 1800 clones i don't see why not
I think the main confusion was during TX1800 kin had said that the MX1800 PCB was different than the TX1800 pcb. I purchased mine as a kit, so never got to compare the two. Im sure somebody has the proper information somewhere, but i've personally never seen a clear answer to the question.
Post by: TheKeyCompany on Mon, 19 March 2018, 16:36:46
I had heard that the PCB can replace the Leeku MX1800 PCB. Would this be correct?
It should fit perfectly. TerryMathews is getting his this week and will confirm for us all.
Post by: Firebolt1914 on Mon, 19 March 2018, 20:48:15
I had heard that the PCB can replace the Leeku MX1800 PCB. Would this be correct?
It should fit perfectly. TerryMathews is getting his this week and will confirm for us all.
Great news! Will order once it is determined.
Post by: TheKeyCompany on Wed, 21 March 2018, 21:39:07
I had heard that the PCB can replace the Leeku MX1800 PCB. Would this be correct?
It should fit perfectly. TerryMathews is getting his this week and will confirm for us all.
Great news! Will order once it is determined.
Confirmed. It fits.
Post by: FearsomeCubedWarrior on Mon, 26 March 2018, 17:03:49
Post by: TheKeyCompany on Mon, 26 March 2018, 17:05:36
The wait list is no longer available. I was going to pull the trigger for blue one, but can't do it now(
I had to close it. I opened up a new one, with the new colors we will be offering. Its linked in the post. I will try my best to fulfill in the order theyre requested.
Post by: FearsomeCubedWarrior on Mon, 26 March 2018, 17:07:10
Post by: Gigamarcus on Tue, 27 March 2018, 01:20:25
Thanks in advance!
Post by: Vigrith on Tue, 27 March 2018, 08:40:56
Hello, I'm a Swedish guy new to this hobby and this forum. I need a nudge in the right direction, me and a friend of mine plans on putting tohether our first custom kits together and I want my kit to have this 1800-layout so I'd like to order this kit. But I'm uncertain how to get my hands on a PCB that works for the nordic layout. Is that something I can order here or how does that work?
Thanks in advance!
This PCB, as well as most other PCBs available with 95%+ of group buys, are perfectly fit for ISO-SE and other Nordic ISO layouts. They're fully programmable.
(https://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/1679/2319/products/T7l7QI2_-_Imgur_2048x.jpg?v=1519954637)
As you can see here, ISO (enter/split left shift) are supported, you just have to solder it in that way. Then after that, just program the PCB keys to do what you want them to do and get a keycap set that includes a NORDE kit. If you touch type you don't even need the NORDE caps, can just roll with regular ANSI (sans enter/split shift of course) or UK ISO which would make your life a lot easier when procuring custom sets.
Post by: Gigamarcus on Wed, 28 March 2018, 02:18:39
Post by: Gigamarcus on Fri, 30 March 2018, 13:54:36
Post by: GarrettSucks on Fri, 30 March 2018, 21:58:36
Post by: eyedrop on Sat, 31 March 2018, 11:56:55
Is it still possible to place an order to get my hands on one of these beauties?I believe TKC is taking pre-order since the initial color cases are sold out.
Sent from my Pixel XL using Tapatalk
Post by: TheKeyCompany on Sat, 31 March 2018, 21:28:18
Is it still possible to place an order to get my hands on one of these beauties?
There are a few remaining in stock, both A and B stock.
Post by: punkpc on Tue, 03 April 2018, 06:54:17
(https://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/1679/2319/products/OLED_1800_2048x.jpg?v=1519954637)
I know its a work in progress, but do you have any info to share on it yet?
Post by: TerryMathews on Tue, 03 April 2018, 12:37:14
Post by: xondat on Tue, 03 April 2018, 13:14:39
https://www.reddit.com/r/mechmarket/comments/87ljks/ic_tkc1800_oled_screen_kit
I think the word cute sums this up really well. GL :p
Post by: TerryMathews on Tue, 03 April 2018, 14:01:40
Post by: unmuscular_michael on Fri, 06 April 2018, 14:37:50
Post by: buzzking00 on Fri, 06 April 2018, 20:12:45
Post by: avtar on Mon, 09 April 2018, 19:38:17
Do you provide soldering services? Can I buy a fully built keeb?
No, you'll have to assemble it yourself or get someone else to do so. I asked earlier in this thread.
Post by: FearsomeCubedWarrior on Tue, 10 April 2018, 02:42:26
Post by: bryankoorean on Wed, 11 April 2018, 08:36:31
Any insight on availability? I've filed IC for matte blue, but will be ok for black one as well.
3-4 months for more cases. I asked him on reddit
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Post by: Mearaz on Sun, 15 April 2018, 21:44:56
Post by: FearsomeCubedWarrior on Wed, 18 April 2018, 11:46:05
Post by: pixelpusher on Thu, 19 April 2018, 15:41:47
Any updates on when this ships? Its supposedly mid-april.
I just found an update on the website:
UPDATE 4/17/18: PCBs are in production. Sample was sent to us and passed inspection. Shipment will be delayed a few weeks to early May.
Post by: Pwner on Sun, 22 April 2018, 09:59:26
Any updates on when this ships? Its supposedly mid-april.
I just found an update on the website:
UPDATE 4/17/18: PCBs are in production. Sample was sent to us and passed inspection. Shipment will be delayed a few weeks to early May.
Just came here to ask about the status of the PCB's. Looking forward to rebuilding my Pac with this. :thumb:
Post by: Kavik on Sat, 28 April 2018, 19:35:05
Post by: ShrimplyPibbles69 on Sat, 28 April 2018, 23:39:31
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Post by: Neodeus on Fri, 04 May 2018, 09:28:58
I wanted to personally send everyone who participated an email to give a quick update to the buy. Thank you for joining and trusting me to provide you with a kick-ass product.
The PCBs and Plates were ordered and paid in full back in March. I spoke to both factories this week and they both said expected shipment date is around May 14. I would expect everything to be in house and shipped out by the end of this month. I apologize for the delays. They have alot of holidays in China, and I sometimes wonder if they forget about them when quoting lead times!
New case shipments are coming in weekly. Currently we have some B stock kits in stock, Matte Orange and Matte Green. Soon to have some Cocaine White. Next off the press is another run of Tanzanite Blue!
TL;DR Expect to have your kit by end of May!
Post by: pixelpusher on Fri, 04 May 2018, 09:34:21
Post by: unmuscular_michael on Sat, 05 May 2018, 12:22:43
Post by: rioc on Fri, 25 May 2018, 02:50:15
really looking forward to get that cocain white 1800 ;D
Post by: Neodeus on Fri, 25 May 2018, 07:54:23
Good news! The PCBs and Plates have shipped from the factories! The parts should be in my possession by Friday. I plan to test a random bunch of PCBs and start fulfillment after the Memorial Day holiday weekend pending no issues. This buy will take a little longer to fulfill than a keyset buy, so expect orders to start going out the door all of next week. Orders will be shipped in the order they were placed.
New colors coming next week, and some restocks.
Audi Nardo Grey
Cocaine White
Tanzanite Blue
Post by: FearsomeCubedWarrior on Fri, 25 May 2018, 08:22:50
Post by: rioc on Fri, 25 May 2018, 08:25:39
Email I got yesterday stated the following:
Good news! The PCBs and Plates have shipped from the factories! The parts should be in my possession by Friday. I plan to test a random bunch of PCBs and start fulfillment after the Memorial Day holiday weekend pending no issues. This buy will take a little longer to fulfill than a keyset buy, so expect orders to start going out the door all of next week. Orders will be shipped in the order they were placed.
New colors coming next week, and some restocks.
Audi Nardo Grey
Cocaine White
Tanzanite Blue
ah, nice :)
Post by: kookoopuffs on Fri, 25 May 2018, 09:41:44
I've got nothing at all, although I've joined wait list and provided my email.
I guess, google mail spam control worked a bit rough this time.
Also, where can we check that grey?
I've messaged him on reddit and he hasn't responded. I'm also signed up for the wait list and the subscription notices but I haven't received anything. All i want to know is how do i sign up for the grey?!?!
Post by: Jkush463 on Fri, 25 May 2018, 10:01:35
Post by: TerryMathews on Fri, 25 May 2018, 16:35:32
Post by: Origami_Rabbit on Sat, 26 May 2018, 21:23:14
Post by: BlindAssassin111 on Sat, 26 May 2018, 22:13:30
Could you kindly show us a picture of which part of top case needs to be modified or cut?
I don't have a picture of modified case atm, but if you look at the plate below, any location with small bridges of material is where you cut, and you need to go ~5mm deep with the cuts to allow the plate to sit properly and not interfere with the case. I would recommend going slow with the cuts to make sure you have it sitting in the case correctly before committing to the full mod.
Post by: Origami_Rabbit on Sat, 26 May 2018, 22:29:05
Cheers!
Post by: Delirious on Sun, 27 May 2018, 16:07:51
Thank you for the info, very useful. Please share a real pic of your modified case in the future if that happens.
Cheers!
https://imgur.com/a/gwMJg
Post by: Origami_Rabbit on Mon, 28 May 2018, 05:23:17
Post by: Radlife on Tue, 29 May 2018, 19:29:49
Post by: soupymeatballs on Tue, 29 May 2018, 21:31:23
Post by: TheKeyCompany on Wed, 30 May 2018, 08:28:30
Is there any way i can get a green kit or did i miss that boat? 😅
I havent been getting notifications on Geekhack! Sorry for the lack of communication!
I have a few green B stock left in stock. I wont be running matte green again, so if you want one, grab one while they last!
https://thekey.company/collections/tkc-1800/products/tkc-1800-v1-0-kit-b-stock
Post by: kookoopuffs on Wed, 30 May 2018, 08:30:31
Is there any way i can get a green kit or did i miss that boat?
I havent been getting notifications on Geekhack! Sorry for the lack of communication!
I have a few green B stock left in stock. I wont be running matte green again, so if you want one, grab one while they last!
https://thekey.company/collections/tkc-1800/products/tkc-1800-v1-0-kit-b-stock
Any updates on nardo grey?
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Post by: TheKeyCompany on Wed, 30 May 2018, 08:37:15
Is there any way i can get a green kit or did i miss that boat?
I havent been getting notifications on Geekhack! Sorry for the lack of communication!
I have a few green B stock left in stock. I wont be running matte green again, so if you want one, grab one while they last!
https://thekey.company/collections/tkc-1800/products/tkc-1800-v1-0-kit-b-stock
Any updates on nardo grey?
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Ive got them in house. I will open orders again next week once everything is shipped out. I want to focus my efforts on fullfillment as its a bit more time consuming than I had anticipated.
Nardo Grey (https://imgur.com/XsDJW8A) looks pretty dope though!
Post by: Kavik on Wed, 30 May 2018, 11:03:38
Is there any way i can get a green kit or did i miss that boat?
I havent been getting notifications on Geekhack! Sorry for the lack of communication!
I have a few green B stock left in stock. I wont be running matte green again, so if you want one, grab one while they last!
https://thekey.company/collections/tkc-1800/products/tkc-1800-v1-0-kit-b-stock
Any updates on nardo grey?
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Ive got them in house. I will open orders again next week once everything is shipped out. I want to focus my efforts on fullfillment as its a bit more time consuming than I had anticipated.
Nardo Grey (https://imgur.com/XsDJW8A) looks pretty dope though!
That gray reminds me of the gray interior of my family's old white '88 Chevy Caprice. Same shine and everything.
Post by: TerryMathews on Wed, 30 May 2018, 20:13:28
Post by: TheKeyCompany on Fri, 01 June 2018, 14:44:24
GB is 40% fulfilled! Read the main page for other updates.
Nardo Grey is in stock! I have 7 available. Im going to do this raffle style.
Please fill out this form if you are interested. (https://docs.google.com/forms/d/16Z7VcmWbLoMVcdxFNA0I1ttdMYzSWHzl02NPKSTST_Q/edit)
Form closes on Monday, invoices will be sent at random. You will have 24 hours to check out or your order will be cancelled! I am offering Nardo Grey at GB pricing. The kits will ship before June 8.
Post by: kookoopuffs on Fri, 01 June 2018, 14:48:00
Show Image(http:// (Attachment Link) )
GB is 40% fulfilled! Read the main page for other updates.
Nardo Grey is in stock! I have 7 available. Im going to do this raffle style.
Please fill out this form if you are interested. (https://docs.google.com/forms/d/16Z7VcmWbLoMVcdxFNA0I1ttdMYzSWHzl02NPKSTST_Q/edit)
Form closes on Monday, invoices will be sent at random. You will have 24 hours to check out or your order will be cancelled! I am offering Nardo Grey at GB pricing. The kits will ship before June 8.
Why does it ask “what color plate” on the form and the choices are prefixed with mx or alps? If I choose mx Black, does that mean that the plate is black and it only fits with mx blacks? Or is the color plate black and I can fit it with any mx switch?
Sorry for the newb question
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Post by: TheKeyCompany on Fri, 01 June 2018, 14:57:24
If the prefix is MX it will fit any MX style switch. "Black" in this case refers to the color of the plate. The alps prefix would be if you wanted to do an Alps plate build rather than Cherry.Show Image(http:// (Attachment Link) )
GB is 40% fulfilled! Read the main page for other updates.
Nardo Grey is in stock! I have 7 available. Im going to do this raffle style.
Please fill out this form if you are interested. (https://docs.google.com/forms/d/16Z7VcmWbLoMVcdxFNA0I1ttdMYzSWHzl02NPKSTST_Q/edit)
Form closes on Monday, invoices will be sent at random. You will have 24 hours to check out or your order will be cancelled! I am offering Nardo Grey at GB pricing. The kits will ship before June 8.
Why does it ask “what color plate” on the form and the choices are prefixed with mx or alps? If I choose mx Black, does that mean that the plate is black and it only fits with mx blacks? Or is the color plate black and I can fit it with any mx switch?
Sorry for the newb question
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Post by: kookoopuffs on Fri, 01 June 2018, 14:58:07
If the prefix is MX it will fit any MX style switch. "Black" in this case refers to the color of the plate. The alps prefix would be if you wanted to do an Alps plate build rather than Cherry.Show Image(http:// (Attachment Link) )
GB is 40% fulfilled! Read the main page for other updates.
Nardo Grey is in stock! I have 7 available. Im going to do this raffle style.
Please fill out this form if you are interested. (https://docs.google.com/forms/d/16Z7VcmWbLoMVcdxFNA0I1ttdMYzSWHzl02NPKSTST_Q/edit)
Form closes on Monday, invoices will be sent at random. You will have 24 hours to check out or your order will be cancelled! I am offering Nardo Grey at GB pricing. The kits will ship before June 8.
Why does it ask “what color plate” on the form and the choices are prefixed with mx or alps? If I choose mx Black, does that mean that the plate is black and it only fits with mx blacks? Or is the color plate black and I can fit it with any mx switch?
Sorry for the newb question
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Gotcha, thanks!
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Post by: Firebolt1914 on Tue, 05 June 2018, 13:56:06
1, in the pictures on the website, it appears the pcbs have both USB connectors soldered, however on my PCB, only the 90 degree connector is there. Is this intentional, and would I have to source a connector?
2, I compared the TKC1800 PCB with a broken MX1800 pcb. Not sure if this will be an issue and if this is what it meant by 'the pcbs are not centered', but the vertical USB connector is slightly off centered on the TKC1800 PCB. Would this potentially cause issues, or as stated on the website, would it be a non-issue?
Post by: TheKeyCompany on Tue, 05 June 2018, 14:02:54
Hi, today I received my TKC1800 PCB, however I had a couple questions.
1, in the pictures on the website, it appears the pcbs have both USB connectors soldered, however on my PCB, only the 90 degree connector is there. Is this intentional, and would I have to source a connector?
2, I compared the TKC1800 PCB with a broken MX1800 pcb. Not sure if this will be an issue and if this is what it meant by 'the pcbs are not centered', but the vertical USB connector is slightly off centered on the TKC1800 PCB. Would this potentially cause issues, or as stated on the website, would it be a non-issue?
1. You would need to source a connector to use it in a TX1800, or desolder the one present and switch locations. The 90 Degree connector is there for use with TKC1800 and G8X-1800 variants. I will have some of the connectors for sale soon.
2. I never got my Tx1800 so I was unable to test the prototype in the case. The USB location we set up for the TX1800 is slightly off to one side when you mount it in the case. You can use it, its just a tight fit. We are correcting that on Rev2.
Hope this helps.
Post by: kookoopuffs on Tue, 05 June 2018, 14:04:08
Show Image(http:// (Attachment Link) )
GB is 40% fulfilled! Read the main page for other updates.
Nardo Grey is in stock! I have 7 available. Im going to do this raffle style.
Please fill out this form if you are interested. (https://docs.google.com/forms/d/16Z7VcmWbLoMVcdxFNA0I1ttdMYzSWHzl02NPKSTST_Q/edit)
Form closes on Monday, invoices will be sent at random. You will have 24 hours to check out or your order will be cancelled! I am offering Nardo Grey at GB pricing. The kits will ship before June 8.
I haven’t got an email for the nardo grey. Have you already sent out the invoices?
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Post by: Firebolt1914 on Tue, 05 June 2018, 14:06:15
Hi, today I received my TKC1800 PCB, however I had a couple questions.
1, in the pictures on the website, it appears the pcbs have both USB connectors soldered, however on my PCB, only the 90 degree connector is there. Is this intentional, and would I have to source a connector?
2, I compared the TKC1800 PCB with a broken MX1800 pcb. Not sure if this will be an issue and if this is what it meant by 'the pcbs are not centered', but the vertical USB connector is slightly off centered on the TKC1800 PCB. Would this potentially cause issues, or as stated on the website, would it be a non-issue?
1. You would need to source a connector to use it in a TX1800, or desolder the one present and switch locations. The 90 Degree connector is there for use with TKC1800 and G8X-1800 variants. I will have some of the connectors for sale soon.
2. I never got my Tx1800 so I was unable to test the prototype in the case. The USB location we set up for the TX1800 is slightly off to one side when you mount it in the case. You can use it, its just a tight fit. We are correcting that on Rev2.
Hope this helps.
Alright, thank you. Will try desoldering the connector.
Post by: Firebolt1914 on Tue, 05 June 2018, 16:36:22
Hi, today I received my TKC1800 PCB, however I had a couple questions.
1, in the pictures on the website, it appears the pcbs have both USB connectors soldered, however on my PCB, only the 90 degree connector is there. Is this intentional, and would I have to source a connector?
2, I compared the TKC1800 PCB with a broken MX1800 pcb. Not sure if this will be an issue and if this is what it meant by 'the pcbs are not centered', but the vertical USB connector is slightly off centered on the TKC1800 PCB. Would this potentially cause issues, or as stated on the website, would it be a non-issue?
1. You would need to source a connector to use it in a TX1800, or desolder the one present and switch locations. The 90 Degree connector is there for use with TKC1800 and G8X-1800 variants. I will have some of the connectors for sale soon.
2. I never got my Tx1800 so I was unable to test the prototype in the case. The USB location we set up for the TX1800 is slightly off to one side when you mount it in the case. You can use it, its just a tight fit. We are correcting that on Rev2.
Hope this helps.
I wasn't able to desolder the connector. Would you happen to have a part number for the connector? Rather not order one and find out the sizing is slightly off.
Post by: TheKeyCompany on Tue, 05 June 2018, 19:28:48
I wasn't able to desolder the connector. Would you happen to have a part number for the connector? Rather not order one and find out the sizing is slightly off.
[/quote]
Drop me an email to orders@thekey.company (http://mailto:orders@thekey.company) with your order number. Ill get you sorted.
Post by: Kavik on Tue, 05 June 2018, 21:15:19
Also, was the kit supposed to include screws? If so, what kind of screws secure the top and bottom case together?
Post by: Kavik on Wed, 06 June 2018, 00:19:37
Is it expected to have to modify the case a bit in order to attach the USB cable? I tried three different USB cables, but the housing around the B-end on all of them interferes with one of the hole wells (?) on the bottom case through which the top case's clips fit. I tried to force it a bit, but that caused one of the little tabs at the bottom of the case that centers the PCB to snap off. I don't want to dremel away at the hole well since it seems thin enough that it might just put a big gap in the case.
Also, was the kit supposed to include screws? If so, what kind of screws secure the top and bottom case together?
I did the more reasonable thing and dremeled the USB cable's B-end instead since it's the cheaper part. It was still a tight fit after that.
But after I got it put together, I noticed the backslash/pipe key switch was crooked since it's the only one that the plate doesn't really secure. I apparently ruined the pad desoldering it, and now the key doesn't work at all after soldering it in correctly oriented. :'(
Post by: pixelpusher on Wed, 06 June 2018, 11:35:52
Is it expected to have to modify the case a bit in order to attach the USB cable? I tried three different USB cables, but the housing around the B-end on all of them interferes with one of the hole wells (?) on the bottom case through which the top case's clips fit. I tried to force it a bit, but that caused one of the little tabs at the bottom of the case that centers the PCB to snap off. I don't want to dremel away at the hole well since it seems thin enough that it might just put a big gap in the case.
Also, was the kit supposed to include screws? If so, what kind of screws secure the top and bottom case together?
I did the more reasonable thing and dremeled the USB cable's B-end instead since it's the cheaper part. It was still a tight fit after that.
But after I got it put together, I noticed the backslash/pipe key switch was crooked since it's the only one that the plate doesn't really secure. I apparently ruined the pad desoldering it, and now the key doesn't work at all after soldering it in correctly oriented. :'(
Sorry to hear you had a bad experience. I know the feeling all too well from lots of underwhelming keyboards and failures of my own in the past.
Whenever I have a crooked key like that I usually just get the solder hot (on the lower pin, the stiffer/thicker one) and twist it with firmly with a keycap on. But not to worry, it should be an easy fix to hotwire/flywire that backslash. Mine is still on the way, and I find it strange that the usb doesn't fit right.
Post by: TheKeyCompany on Wed, 06 June 2018, 12:24:04
Is it expected to have to modify the case a bit in order to attach the USB cable? I tried three different USB cables, but the housing around the B-end on all of them interferes with one of the hole wells (?) on the bottom case through which the top case's clips fit. I tried to force it a bit, but that caused one of the little tabs at the bottom of the case that centers the PCB to snap off. I don't want to dremel away at the hole well since it seems thin enough that it might just put a big gap in the case.
Also, was the kit supposed to include screws? If so, what kind of screws secure the top and bottom case together?
I did the more reasonable thing and dremeled the USB cable's B-end instead since it's the cheaper part. It was still a tight fit after that.
But after I got it put together, I noticed the backslash/pipe key switch was crooked since it's the only one that the plate doesn't really secure. I apparently ruined the pad desoldering it, and now the key doesn't work at all after soldering it in correctly oriented. :'(
Is it expected to have to modify the case a bit in order to attach the USB cable? I tried three different USB cables, but the housing around the B-end on all of them interferes with one of the hole wells (?) on the bottom case through which the top case's clips fit. I tried to force it a bit, but that caused one of the little tabs at the bottom of the case that centers the PCB to snap off. I don't want to dremel away at the hole well since it seems thin enough that it might just put a big gap in the case.
Also, was the kit supposed to include screws? If so, what kind of screws secure the top and bottom case together?
I did the more reasonable thing and dremeled the USB cable's B-end instead since it's the cheaper part. It was still a tight fit after that.
But after I got it put together, I noticed the backslash/pipe key switch was crooked since it's the only one that the plate doesn't really secure. I apparently ruined the pad desoldering it, and now the key doesn't work at all after soldering it in correctly oriented. :'(
Sorry to hear you had a bad experience. I know the feeling all too well from lots of underwhelming keyboards and failures of my own in the past.
Whenever I have a crooked key like that I usually just get the solder hot (on the lower pin, the stiffer/thicker one) and twist it with firmly with a keycap on. But not to worry, it should be an easy fix to hotwire/flywire that backslash. Mine is still on the way, and I find it strange that the usb doesn't fit right.
The USB connector is rotated 90 degrees so that the cable can be routed through the stock hole in the case. Like this. (https://imgur.com/nUJWoht) It doesnt work very well with bulky cable ends. Best fit is from a shrinkwrapped cable.
My recommendation is to either use a shrink-wrapped cable, hardwire the cable, or modify your cable end so that it fits properly. Forcing it in is a bad way to go; its plastic, something WILL break.
Screws can be used but are not required, therefore not included. They add no stability or rigidity to the case therefore I did not include them. Ill run them up to the hardware store soon and get a size off them and post on the product page for those who wish to use one.
Lastly, I will be doing a build log soon with lots of pics and good instructions. This fulfillment is taking much longer than expected, otherwise it would be up by now. If you are unsure about how something goes together or have issues, comment here and Ill do my best to help out as I fulfill (maybe someone else can chime in), or wait for the build log.
Post by: Overchecken8 on Wed, 06 June 2018, 12:50:33
Post by: TheKeyCompany on Wed, 06 June 2018, 13:05:20
What's the best way to get in contact with you guys? I was waiting for a reply through email and decided to try you through Reddit but still haven't been able to get a reply through either. Just curious what's the most convenient way to get in contact about my TKC1800 order.
Did you try this?
https://thekey.company/pages/contact-tkc (https://thekey.company/pages/contact-tkc)
Or you can always drop a line to orders@thekey.company (http://mailto:orders@thekey.company)
Post by: pixelpusher on Wed, 06 June 2018, 13:05:58
Post by: Overchecken8 on Wed, 06 June 2018, 13:17:50
What's the best way to get in contact with you guys? I was waiting for a reply through email and decided to try you through Reddit but still haven't been able to get a reply through either. Just curious what's the most convenient way to get in contact about my TKC1800 order.
Did you try this?
https://thekey.company/pages/contact-tkc (https://thekey.company/pages/contact-tkc)
Or you can always drop a line to orders@thekey.company (http://mailto:orders@thekey.company)
Yeah I originally used the first link and got a reply back pretty quickly. I haven't received a reply after the first one though. I'll go ahead and send over another through that first link though, thanks!
Post by: loud_asian on Thu, 07 June 2018, 01:09:17
No invoice for me :(
Post by: Overchecken8 on Thu, 07 June 2018, 09:31:59
Sorry about the confusion! Was just me being crazy/impatient and dying to get my board. Got a reply and mine should be shipping out sometime this weekend!What's the best way to get in contact with you guys? I was waiting for a reply through email and decided to try you through Reddit but still haven't been able to get a reply through either. Just curious what's the most convenient way to get in contact about my TKC1800 order.
Did you try this?
https://thekey.company/pages/contact-tkc (https://thekey.company/pages/contact-tkc)
Or you can always drop a line to orders@thekey.company (http://mailto:orders@thekey.company)
Yeah I originally used the first link and got a reply back pretty quickly. I haven't received a reply after the first one though. I'll go ahead and send over another through that first link though, thanks!
Post by: EternalD on Thu, 07 June 2018, 15:17:25
Post by: BlindAssassin111 on Thu, 07 June 2018, 15:29:27
May seem a silly question, but can anyone explain to me how to open the case? No experience with the cherry cases and i don't want to pry the thing apart and snap it.
You have to use something to pry the tabs from the back, use something plastic like a car trim removal tool if you really want to be safe. That is the only way I know how.
Post by: TerryMathews on Thu, 07 June 2018, 15:29:59
May seem a silly question, but can anyone explain to me how to open the case? No experience with the cherry cases and i don't want to pry the thing apart and snap it.
Four plastic clips on the bottom of the case. Push them towards the cable-hole edge.
Post by: EternalD on Thu, 07 June 2018, 15:32:27
May seem a silly question, but can anyone explain to me how to open the case? No experience with the cherry cases and i don't want to pry the thing apart and snap it.
Four plastic clips on the bottom of the case. Push them towards the cable-hole edge.
May seem a silly question, but can anyone explain to me how to open the case? No experience with the cherry cases and i don't want to pry the thing apart and snap it.
You have to use something to pry the tabs from the back, use something plastic like a car trim removal tool if you really want to be safe. That is the only way I know how.
May seem a silly question, but can anyone explain to me how to open the case? No experience with the cherry cases and i don't want to pry the thing apart and snap it.
Four plastic clips on the bottom of the case. Push them towards the cable-hole edge.
Thank you both, will report back with the results!
Post by: rioc on Fri, 08 June 2018, 06:44:48
ordered an extra Plate and PCB for mine
Post by: pixelpusher on Sat, 09 June 2018, 13:32:27
Also, my PCB does rattle a bit in the top right, so I think I would like to try adding the two case screws whenever they become available. I'm not sure if they will go in though. It looks like screw holes on the PCB are designed about 1mm off.
If screws don't work I'm sure I could put some wedging material in there to keep the PCB pressed firmly.
Speaking of material to put in the case... I would say this sucker really needs some shelf liner or foam. Let me clarify that I am a HUGE fan of plastic cases and the way they sound. This one... er... it sounds not so good. Its clacky, but in a bad/cheap way. I think an insert would probably make it sound much nicer though. I'll have to report back on that one.
I'll probably write up a full review once I get it fully build and trimmed out.
Post by: ShrimplyPibbles69 on Sat, 09 June 2018, 13:35:09
I got mine today. I had to spend two hours figuring out and fixing why it wouldn't go together. I'm glad that I paid to have it pre cut for the plate (becasue I wouldn't have known where to start cutting), but the cuts weren't 100% right. Mostly it was the cuts around the arrow cluster and right below the NCS indicator that weren't deep enough. After a lot of careful scraping (I have a dremel, but I would suggest using a box knife for more control) I was able to get it to fit correctly.Thanks for the update. I’d love to read a full review once you get everything sorted out.
Also, my PCB does rattle a bit in the top right, so I think I would like to try adding the two case screws whenever they become available. I'm not sure if they will go in though. It looks like screw holes on the PCB are designed about 1mm off.
If screws don't work I'm sure I could put some wedging material in there to keep the PCB pressed firmly.
Speaking of material to put in the case... I would say this sucker really needs some shelf liner or foam. Let me clarify that I am a HUGE fan of plastic cases and the way they sound. This one... er... it sounds not so good. Its clacky, but in a bad/cheap way. I think an insert would probably make it sound much nicer though. I'll have to report back on that one.
I'll probably write up a full review once I get it fully build and trimmed out.
Post by: baphotmet on Sat, 09 June 2018, 14:06:21
I got mine today. I had to spend two hours figuring out and fixing why it wouldn't go together. I'm glad that I paid to have it pre cut for the plate (becasue I wouldn't have known where to start cutting), but the cuts weren't 100% right. Mostly it was the cuts around the arrow cluster and right below the NCS indicator that weren't deep enough. After a lot of careful scraping (I have a dremel, but I would suggest using a box knife for more control) I was able to get it to fit correctly.
Also, my PCB does rattle a bit in the top right, so I think I would like to try adding the two case screws whenever they become available. I'm not sure if they will go in though. It looks like screw holes on the PCB are designed about 1mm off.
If screws don't work I'm sure I could put some wedging material in there to keep the PCB pressed firmly.
Speaking of material to put in the case... I would say this sucker really needs some shelf liner or foam. Let me clarify that I am a HUGE fan of plastic cases and the way they sound. This one... er... it sounds not so good. Its clacky, but in a bad/cheap way. I think an insert would probably make it sound much nicer though. I'll have to report back on that one.
I'll probably write up a full review once I get it fully build and trimmed out.
Looking forward to your full review.
btw, what kind of mini-usb would you use? separated or extend from PCB?
Post by: Kavik on Sat, 09 June 2018, 14:21:18
But now I need to find a 1.75u right SHIFT key. I had to borrow CAPS LOCK from SA Carbon, which isn't even the right row profile, not to mention color.
(https://i.imgur.com/wckGITZ.jpg)
Post by: pixelpusher on Sat, 09 June 2018, 14:45:36
I finally got all the kinks worked out and put this thing together. I was surprised how well it goes with SA 1965. I had actually been planning to sell that set since it didn't go with any of my keyboards. Now I'm keeping it ;D
But now I need to find a 1.75u right SHIFT key. I had to borrow CAPS LOCK from SA Carbon, which isn't even the right row profile, not to mention color.Show Image(https://i.imgur.com/wckGITZ.jpg)
That looks really cool. What switches did you use? Also, did you put any sound dampener in the case?
Post by: eyedrop on Sat, 09 June 2018, 15:11:53
Sent from my Pixel XL using Tapatalk
Post by: Origami_Rabbit on Sat, 09 June 2018, 15:38:45
Post by: Kavik on Sat, 09 June 2018, 16:39:37
I finally got all the kinks worked out and put this thing together. I was surprised how well it goes with SA 1965. I had actually been planning to sell that set since it didn't go with any of my keyboards. Now I'm keeping it ;D
But now I need to find a 1.75u right SHIFT key. I had to borrow CAPS LOCK from SA Carbon, which isn't even the right row profile, not to mention color.Show Image(https://i.imgur.com/wckGITZ.jpg)
That looks really cool. What switches did you use? Also, did you put any sound dampener in the case?
I went with BOX Royals. I liked BOX Navies so much I figured I had to try them. I have to say that they feel pretty good in this case. I think the plastic case actually adds a bit to the feel of them, but I don't have a aluminum KB with them to test side by side. I posted more of my thoughts on them here (https://geekhack.org/index.php?topic=96081.0).
Post by: pixelpusher on Sat, 09 June 2018, 19:05:35
Post by: EternalD on Sun, 10 June 2018, 22:18:03
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Post by: pixelpusher on Mon, 11 June 2018, 00:22:10
Anyone have suggestions for inserts within the case? I’ve gotten it apart and plan to solder everything soon, but am noticing how light the board is.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
I haven't tried it yet, but the hobby store here has brass strips in the model train section. They are heavy and look like they would fit easily in the channels inside the case. They're not cheap, but they would add some heft.
Post by: wholypantalones on Mon, 11 June 2018, 06:52:41
Anyone have suggestions for inserts within the case? I’ve gotten it apart and plan to solder everything soon, but am noticing how light the board is.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Stick on wheel weights work pretty well and they're low profile. I used them in a Filco build where I removed the steel plate for an aluminum plate with switch top removal and cherry stab support.
Post by: Kavik on Mon, 11 June 2018, 10:19:06
Post by: TerryMathews on Mon, 11 June 2018, 11:36:54
I've noticed a key blocking issue on mine. If I hold both right and left SHIFT keys while pressing the "?/" key, the key press is blocked. I can't think of when this would be an issue except maybe with weird function layer layout. Just thought it was odd.
Both shifts are the default magic keys in QMK.
Post by: Bizpit on Mon, 11 June 2018, 17:52:35
They also oversold the cyan plates, and the only alternatives are Black, Red, Orange, Purple, Green and alps.
Post by: rioc on Tue, 12 June 2018, 02:05:50
Got an email from TKC today: Tanzanite Blue cases (likely the second batch only) had to be reworked and should hopefully be finished again tomorrow.
They also oversold the cyan plates, and the only alternatives are Black, Red, Orange, Purple, Green and alps.
same for Cocaine White, but I'm fine with that. They're a good bunch at TKC and doing the right thing getting them reworked.
as for the plates, I guess orange or purple would look dope with the tanzanite blue ;)
Post by: TheKeyCompany on Tue, 12 June 2018, 11:36:46
95% shipped.
Tanzanite blue and Nardo grey ship out this week. Had to wait on rework of the Tanzanite cases and more stock of brass plaques. Im picking it all up tomorrow morning.
~5 Cocaine white orders were delayed; Im having them remade due to issues I discovered late in the game. You've all been emailed.
There are a few B stock on inventory at the store. I will have a raffle for the extra Tanzanite Blue cases tomorrow. I should have 5 to sell.
Cyan and Unfinished aluminum plates sold out. I will be re-upping plates and PCBs later this month. Should be about a 6 week lead time.
Build log coming soon. If you are having issues with anything drop me an email to orders@thekey.company or ask here, myself or someone else will help you out. Dont force things and break them; ask first!
Lastly, I will have more diffusers in stock soon for the case fronts, this time in colors to match the plates. They will be for sale on the site.
Wheres those build logs? I want to see an Alps TKC1800! Show em off!
Post by: BlindAssassin111 on Tue, 12 June 2018, 12:23:42
Wheres those build logs? I want to see an Alps TKC1800! Show em off!
Not finished yet, still need my nexus sliders, stabs, indicator LEDs, and caps to finish the build. Currently it is using click modded SKCM Black, but I may put white click leafs in there in the future.
[attach=1]
[attach=2]
Post by: wholypantalones on Tue, 12 June 2018, 12:44:07
Lastly, I will have more diffusers in stock soon for the case fronts, this time in colors to match the plates. They will be for sale on the site.
There's diffusers too?
Post by: TheKeyCompany on Tue, 12 June 2018, 12:54:52
Lastly, I will have more diffusers in stock soon for the case fronts, this time in colors to match the plates. They will be for sale on the site.
There's diffusers too?
All the kits came with a new one, diffuser meaning the sticker that goes where the indicator lights are. Depending on what color case you got, clear or white was pre-installed. Those that got a matte blue case with orange plate got a free orange one to Skidata it up.
Ill have diffusers in all the colors of the plates available by the end of the week.
Post by: Vigrith on Tue, 12 June 2018, 12:56:29
Hey all. Quick update.
95% shipped.
Will we get any follow up email(s) for the International orders regarding potential proxies etc or will we just get an updated tracking number with our paypal order as per usual?
Post by: TheKeyCompany on Tue, 12 June 2018, 12:58:26
Hey all. Quick update.
95% shipped.
Will we get any follow up email(s) for the International orders regarding potential proxies etc or will we just get an updated tracking number with our paypal order as per usual?
I shipped everything direct. Was going to use a proxy, ended up costing the same to ship them myself.
You will receive a tracking email direct from TKC when your order ships.
Post by: Vigrith on Tue, 12 June 2018, 13:40:41
I shipped everything direct. Was going to use a proxy, ended up costing the same to ship them myself.
You will receive a tracking email direct from TKC when your order ships.
Good to hear man, thank you for clearing that up; need some time for mental preparation to deal with customs so I'm quite pleased to be in the last 5%!
Post by: TheKeyCompany on Tue, 12 June 2018, 19:31:20
Anyone have suggestions for inserts within the case? I’ve gotten it apart and plan to solder everything soon, but am noticing how light the board is.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
I was going to try removing a fin from the bottom case using a Dremel to widen the channel. Then grab a piece of flat steel from Home Depot and epoxy it in. See how that works. It wont add a ton of heft, but it might be interesting to try.
Alternately, someone mentioned filling the bottom case with silicone caulk. Personally Id use a hybrid, like Dynaflex 230. Its easier to clean up. Ill toy around with that when things slow down and report back.
Post by: pixelpusher on Tue, 12 June 2018, 21:53:09
[attachimg=1]
Post by: BlindAssassin111 on Tue, 12 June 2018, 22:02:39
Potato pic for ya:
(Attachment Link)
That looks so good!! Wish I had my caps and sliders right now...
Post by: aicrono on Tue, 12 June 2018, 23:05:44
I'm using Aliaz 70g switches and some GMK Classic Retro caps.
[attach=1]
[attach=2]
Post by: kookoopuffs on Wed, 13 June 2018, 00:03:26
I wasn't part of this particular group buy, but I did order a PCB for a G81-1800 case that I had. I got it put together last Thursday when the PCB arrived.
I'm using Aliaz 70g switches and some GMK Classic Retro caps.
(Attachment Link)
(Attachment Link)
Was there any issues doing this with the pcb? Did you have to cut anything? Thanks :)
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Post by: kookoopuffs on Wed, 13 June 2018, 00:06:39
I wasn't part of this particular group buy, but I did order a PCB for a G81-1800 case that I had. I got it put together last Thursday when the PCB arrived.
I'm using Aliaz 70g switches and some GMK Classic Retro caps.
(Attachment Link)
(Attachment Link)
Was there any issues doing this with the pcb? Did you have to cut anything? Thanks :)
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Post by: BlindAssassin111 on Wed, 13 June 2018, 00:13:53
Was there any issues doing this with the pcb? Did you have to cut anything? Thanks :)
The PCBs fit without issue, only reason you cut is to fit the switch plate(which is bought separately).
Post by: rioc on Wed, 13 June 2018, 03:59:29
Was there any issues doing this with the pcb? Did you have to cut anything? Thanks :)
The PCBs fit without issue, only reason you cut is to fit the switch plate(which is bought separately).
can anyone tell me which modifications have to be done for the case?
got an extra plate and PCB for my standard g80-1800 too
Post by: wholypantalones on Wed, 13 June 2018, 05:16:13
Was there any issues doing this with the pcb? Did you have to cut anything? Thanks :)
The PCBs fit without issue, only reason you cut is to fit the switch plate(which is bought separately).
can anyone tell me which modifications have to be done for the case?
got an extra plate and PCB for my standard g80-1800 too
Second page of this thread. https://geekhack.org/index.php?topic=94381.msg2613442#msg2613442
Post by: rioc on Wed, 13 June 2018, 05:52:08
Was there any issues doing this with the pcb? Did you have to cut anything? Thanks :)
The PCBs fit without issue, only reason you cut is to fit the switch plate(which is bought separately).
can anyone tell me which modifications have to be done for the case?
got an extra plate and PCB for my standard g80-1800 too
Second page of this thread. https://geekhack.org/index.php?topic=94381.msg2613442#msg2613442 (https://geekhack.org/index.php?topic=94381.msg2613442#msg2613442)
oh, must have missed it... I looked through this.
oh well, Thanks :)
Post by: Neodeus on Wed, 13 June 2018, 07:01:58
Post by: Delirious on Wed, 13 June 2018, 07:17:09
Got my kit the other day and we finished it last night. Looks good. I'll have to post some pics. One questions, however, did anyone else have an issue with a GMK set? I used GMK Aero on mine and the keys in the upper right have different heights. The very top row is tall, the row below that has two short key caps, and the third row down has tall caps again. It still looks pretty good, but the mismatched height is off putting. I realize it is not a failing of this kit, so I am very happy with it. I may just put a row of artisans there to match it up.
GMK Aero doesnt have the extra keys for 1800 support, hence you got the mismatched profile.
Post by: Neodeus on Wed, 13 June 2018, 07:39:36
Post by: TheKeyCompany on Wed, 13 June 2018, 08:59:39
Was there any issues doing this with the pcb? Did you have to cut anything? Thanks :)
The PCBs fit without issue, only reason you cut is to fit the switch plate(which is bought separately).
can anyone tell me which modifications have to be done for the case?
got an extra plate and PCB for my standard g80-1800 too
Second page of this thread. https://geekhack.org/index.php?topic=94381.msg2613442#msg2613442 (https://geekhack.org/index.php?topic=94381.msg2613442#msg2613442)
oh, must have missed it... I looked through this.
oh well, Thanks :)
As soon as I get everything sent out and Drifter taken care of, I plan to do a detailed build log. Thanks to all who chipped in on the answer.
Note on case cutting: 5mm deep is all you need. If you try to cut all the way down, you can break the case (as one of my pals did oof!) Best thing to use is a Dremel with a cut off wheel and a steady hand. next best is sharp flush cutters and a razor or Xacto knife.
Post by: Corgi Butts on Wed, 13 June 2018, 09:01:25
Post by: TheKeyCompany on Wed, 13 June 2018, 09:04:44
Potato pic for ya:
(Attachment Link)
Nice! Looks alot like mine! (https://imgur.com/a/fTi0A1n)
Post by: TheKeyCompany on Wed, 13 June 2018, 11:58:23
Remaining orders will be filled over the next 2 days (except Cocaine, waiting on that run)
Post by: Corgi Butts on Wed, 13 June 2018, 12:37:44
Edit: duh, never mind.
Post by: TheKeyCompany on Wed, 13 June 2018, 16:36:23
I am down to just a few PCBs remaining. I have stopped sales of PCB only for the time being until we receive more.
There will be 4 Tanzanite Blue up for sale shortly as well as 2-3 Cocaine White once I pick them up. Stay tuned to your inbox and this thread for the raffle for each.
Post by: Neodeus on Wed, 13 June 2018, 18:51:27
Post by: TheKeyCompany on Wed, 13 June 2018, 19:30:21
Here is a picture of my keyboard. I love it! Used box pale blue switches.
It’s lookong good! How do you like it?
Post by: Neodeus on Wed, 13 June 2018, 21:35:28
Post by: crtexcnndrm99 on Thu, 14 June 2018, 07:27:29
Wheres those build logs? I want to see an Alps TKC1800! Show em off!
Not finished yet, still need my nexus sliders, stabs, indicator LEDs, and caps to finish the build. Currently it is using click modded SKCM Black, but I may put white click leafs in there in the future.
(Attachment Link)
(Attachment Link)
Sweet build! Now I want to do an Alps one.
Post by: Kavik on Thu, 14 June 2018, 10:12:36
Here is a picture of my keyboard. I love it! Used box pale blue switches.
Wow, that's an interesting color combo!
Post by: Delirious on Thu, 14 June 2018, 18:06:06
(https://i.imgur.com/eBi80mB.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/iLF07Ts.jpg)
For those who were still wondering about modding the case. This is what I did
More
(https://i.imgur.com/4lPH2iQ.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/spSQWfF.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/spSQWfF.jpg)
Post by: TheKeyCompany on Thu, 14 June 2018, 20:20:59
Gorgeous! Are those caps shown Alps? I’ve been trying to find a kit that will work. I have a few full size Alps boards I could harvest but they need some retrobrite.Show Image(https://i.imgur.com/Vt4x18M.jpg)Show Image(https://i.imgur.com/eBi80mB.jpg)Show Image(https://i.imgur.com/iLF07Ts.jpg)
For those who were still wondering about modding the case. This is what I didMoreShow Image(https://i.imgur.com/4lPH2iQ.jpg)Show Image(https://i.imgur.com/spSQWfF.jpg)
Thanks for sharing! Nice build!
Post by: Puddsy on Thu, 14 June 2018, 22:20:14
Gorgeous! Are those caps shown Alps? I’ve been trying to find a kit that will work. I have a few full size Alps boards I could harvest but they need some retrobrite.Show Image(https://i.imgur.com/Vt4x18M.jpg)Show Image(https://i.imgur.com/eBi80mB.jpg)Show Image(https://i.imgur.com/iLF07Ts.jpg)
For those who were still wondering about modding the case. This is what I didMoreShow Image(https://i.imgur.com/4lPH2iQ.jpg)Show Image(https://i.imgur.com/spSQWfF.jpg)
Thanks for sharing! Nice build!
they're ALPS caps but i cannot for the life of me remember what board they're from
Post by: Delirious on Fri, 15 June 2018, 18:14:47
Gorgeous! Are those caps shown Alps? I’ve been trying to find a kit that will work. I have a few full size Alps boards I could harvest but they need some retrobrite.Show Image(https://i.imgur.com/Vt4x18M.jpg)Show Image(https://i.imgur.com/eBi80mB.jpg)Show Image(https://i.imgur.com/iLF07Ts.jpg)
For those who were still wondering about modding the case. This is what I didMoreShow Image(https://i.imgur.com/4lPH2iQ.jpg)Show Image(https://i.imgur.com/spSQWfF.jpg)
Thanks for sharing! Nice build!
they're ALPS caps but i cannot for the life of me remember what board they're from
They are dye subbed PBT cap from IBM multistation boards. The legends are much thicker than Dell AT101 and the numpad has maroon sublegends.
Post by: TheKeyCompany on Fri, 15 June 2018, 18:57:56
TheyGorgeous! Are those caps shown Alps? I’ve been trying to find a kit that will work. I have a few full size Alps boards I could harvest but they need some retrobrite.Show Image(https://i.imgur.com/Vt4x18M.jpg)Show Image(https://i.imgur.com/eBi80mB.jpg)Show Image(https://i.imgur.com/iLF07Ts.jpg)
For those who were still wondering about modding the case. This is what I didMoreShow Image(https://i.imgur.com/4lPH2iQ.jpg)Show Image(https://i.imgur.com/spSQWfF.jpg)
Thanks for sharing! Nice build!
they're ALPS caps but i cannot for the life of me remember what board they're from
They are dye subbed PBT cap from IBM multistation boards. The legends are much thicker than Dell AT101 and the numpad has maroon sublegends.
Thanks! Are they fairly uncommon? Got an extra set?
Post by: Krona on Sun, 17 June 2018, 04:52:23
Post by: eyedrop on Mon, 18 June 2018, 22:19:41
Post by: BlindAssassin111 on Mon, 18 June 2018, 22:40:34
For those who already assembled the board, which usb cable works to route it through the hole on the case?
I used a normal USB cable and just cut the overmold to fit the case better. I have no plan on using that cable for any other board and it was a cheap beige one to go with my theme. You don't have to use a custom one if you are willing to cut the part that hits.
Post by: avtar on Tue, 19 June 2018, 17:32:51
Post by: TheKeyCompany on Tue, 19 June 2018, 17:41:49
Does anyone know if a build log for this kit is online somewhere?
Not yet. I’ve been working on one in between other TKC projects and real life stuff.
What part in particular are you needing info on?
Post by: avtar on Sun, 24 June 2018, 12:01:15
What part in particular are you needing info on?
Post by: TheKeyCompany on Sun, 24 June 2018, 12:10:28
Mainly USB cable related. I came across a post describing cable issues they ran into (https://www.reddit.com/r/MechanicalKeyboards/comments/8rnj4g/tkc1800_67g_zealio_r10sa_carbon/e0vspvb/) and wanted to see if others had to perform any workarounds as well.What part in particular are you needing info on?
This is how to route the USB cable on a TKC1800. (https://imgur.com/a/2cRoIVL)
Post by: Bizpit on Mon, 25 June 2018, 07:07:17
I had a co-worker that fell in love with mine (pics once MaxKey Calm Depths arrives) who wants one for himself.
Post by: TheKeyCompany on Mon, 25 June 2018, 08:46:30
Any estimate on when the form for the extra Tanzanite Blue's will go up?
I had a co-worker that fell in love with mine (pics once MaxKey Calm Depths arrives) who wants one for himself.
It was up, closed, and invoiced last week. Sorry you missed it. Don’t worry, I have more coming. Not soon, but over the next few months.
Post by: lemur on Wed, 27 June 2018, 22:16:55
... I will be re-upping plates and PCBs later this month. Should be about a 6 week lead time. ...
I presume this mid-june post means that new PCBs will be available sometime August-ish?
I am looking at getting just a PCB, I presume this may be possible sometime in the future based on the above?
Thanks!
Post by: TheKeyCompany on Wed, 27 June 2018, 22:19:14
... I will be re-upping plates and PCBs later this month. Should be about a 6 week lead time. ...
I presume this mid-june post means that new PCBs will be available sometime August-ish?
I am looking at getting just a PCB, I presume this may be possible sometime in the future based on the above?
Thanks!
Yes, there will be more stock coming right around then.
Post by: Overchecken8 on Wed, 27 June 2018, 22:20:33
Post by: TheKeyCompany on Wed, 27 June 2018, 22:27:16
Any update on when the white cases might be in?
I’m supposed to pick them up this Friday. They’ll ship Monday if all goes to plan.
Post by: EternalD on Thu, 28 June 2018, 14:55:25
Post by: TheKeyCompany on Thu, 28 June 2018, 15:12:20
Any update on a build log? Still hesitant to assemble mine and waiting for GMK Laser anyway.
Sorry, I know, its overdue.
The only thing you really need to know aside from the basics of keyboard building are:
1. Dont over tighten the screws on the stabs. Snug is all you need. This goes for any board with screw in stabs, if you over tighten it can cut through the solder mask and short the board.
2. The USB cable gets routed this way. (https://i.imgur.com/nUJWoht.jpg)
3. There are no screws. The plate / PCB sub assembly will set into the top portion of the case and align themselves with the large pins molded into the plastic case.
4. Programming : QMK has a ton of resources available. But the PCB comes pre-programmed for the most common 1800 layout. Im about to update another keymap that has the 2u "+" as the one pre programmed uses the 1u "+"
I hope this helps a little for now. I am leaving town tomorrow for KeyCon, will return on Sunday and will start shipping Drifter. After that I should be able to find time.
If you have further questions, GeekHack is a wealth of information regarding keyboard building. Just ask, many are happy to help!
Post by: Corgi Butts on Thu, 28 June 2018, 15:20:13
Post by: EternalD on Thu, 28 June 2018, 15:21:53
Any update on a build log? Still hesitant to assemble mine and waiting for GMK Laser anyway.
Sorry, I know, its overdue.
The only thing you really need to know aside from the basics of keyboard building are:
1. Dont over tighten the screws on the stabs. Snug is all you need. This goes for any board with screw in stabs, if you over tighten it can cut through the solder mask and short the board.
2. The USB cable gets routed this way. (https://i.imgur.com/nUJWoht.jpg)
3. There are no screws. The plate / PCB sub assembly will set into the top portion of the case and align themselves with the large pins molded into the plastic case.
4. Programming : QMK has a ton of resources available. But the PCB comes pre-programmed for the most common 1800 layout. Im about to update another keymap that has the 2u "+" as the one pre programmed uses the 1u "+"
I hope this helps a little for now. I am leaving town tomorrow for KeyCon, will return on Sunday and will start shipping Drifter. After that I should be able to find time.
If you have further questions, GeekHack is a wealth of information regarding keyboard building. Just ask, many are happy to help!
Thanks for the tips, I'll probably assemble it all soon. Look forward to the video!
Post by: portbaron on Thu, 28 June 2018, 15:49:07
Edit - nvm. I just took out the pcb and looked at it lol.Any update on a build log? Still hesitant to assemble mine and waiting for GMK Laser anyway.
Sorry, I know, its overdue.
The only thing you really need to know aside from the basics of keyboard building are:
1. Dont over tighten the screws on the stabs. Snug is all you need. This goes for any board with screw in stabs, if you over tighten it can cut through the solder mask and short the board.
2. The USB cable gets routed this way. (https://i.imgur.com/nUJWoht.jpg)
3. There are no screws. The plate / PCB sub assembly will set into the top portion of the case and align themselves with the large pins molded into the plastic case.
4. Programming : QMK has a ton of resources available. But the PCB comes pre-programmed for the most common 1800 layout. Im about to update another keymap that has the 2u "+" as the one pre programmed uses the 1u "+"
Post by: Overchecken8 on Thu, 28 June 2018, 21:58:13
Link to the reddit thread: https://www.reddit.com/r/MechanicalKeyboards/comments/8tuell/these_millmax_hotswap_sockets_are_so_good/?st=JIZE0DCZ&sh=d7f359f5
Post by: TheKeyCompany on Fri, 29 June 2018, 06:23:42
Anyone know if these hotswap sockets would work with the TKC1800?
Link to the reddit thread: https://www.reddit.com/r/MechanicalKeyboards/comments/8tuell/these_millmax_hotswap_sockets_are_so_good/?st=JIZE0DCZ&sh=d7f359f5
Only one way to find out! I think those should work. My only concern is hold diameter but I’m fairly confident it’ll be ok.
I know that the Kaihl hot swap sockets wont work because they will hit the ridges on the case. I wanted to offer them in R2 and was bummed to find out they wouldn’t work.
Post by: portbaron on Sat, 30 June 2018, 15:53:00
Post by: BlindAssassin111 on Sat, 30 June 2018, 16:46:21
Where can you buy LEDs for the numlock/capslock/scrl lock indicators on the pcb? Is it default programmed to light up if soldered in? I've never put LEDs on a pcb before.
Yep you just buy LEDs and solder and you are done. You can put 3mm, 1.8mm or other LEDs and be good to go really quickly.
Post by: Kavik on Sun, 01 July 2018, 14:20:42
Where can you buy LEDs for the numlock/capslock/scrl lock indicators on the pcb? Is it default programmed to light up if soldered in? I've never put LEDs on a pcb before.
Yep you just buy LEDs and solder and you are done. You can put 3mm, 1.8mm or other LEDs and be good to go really quickly.
I harvested some from a cheap numpad I never used. Just make sure, when you solder them in, that you put the right prongs in the - and + holes; otherwise they won't work! The longer prong is the positive one, I believe.
Post by: Ar556 on Tue, 03 July 2018, 13:59:09
Post by: TheKeyCompany on Tue, 03 July 2018, 17:12:51
Is the pcb restock the same pcb? or will it be round 2 with the corrected usb centering?
A few changes. But you’ll still have to solder the connector for the TX1800 (Center) yourself. We will have the connectors in stock on the site soon.
Post by: dimo on Tue, 03 July 2018, 17:32:48
Post by: portbaron on Tue, 03 July 2018, 17:45:41
What is usb centering?Is the pcb restock the same pcb? or will it be round 2 with the corrected usb centering?
A few changes. But you’ll still have to solder the connector for the TX1800 (Center) yourself. We will have the connectors in stock on the site soon.
Post by: TheKeyCompany on Tue, 03 July 2018, 17:59:20
What is usb centering?Is the pcb restock the same pcb? or will it be round 2 with the corrected usb centering?
A few changes. But you’ll still have to solder the connector for the TX1800 (Center) yourself. We will have the connectors in stock on the site soon.
There’s 3 possible usb locations on the PCB. Standard it comes in the offset rotated position for use in a G80-1800 / TKC-1800 case. It has optional locations for TX-1800 and others. Those optional locations is what he is referring to.
Post by: Overchecken8 on Thu, 05 July 2018, 13:43:49
Post by: TheKeyCompany on Thu, 05 July 2018, 16:33:46
Any update on when white case kits will be shipped?
I’m picking them up tomorrow. If all is well, they’ll shipnout Saturday morning.
Post by: dorf on Fri, 06 July 2018, 00:51:14
Post by: Overchecken8 on Fri, 06 July 2018, 09:51:02
:thumb:Any update on when white case kits will be shipped?
I’m picking them up tomorrow. If all is well, they’ll shipnout Saturday morning.
Post by: dorf on Sat, 07 July 2018, 02:09:50
Are there any guides or pictures on how to solder the connection on the pcb for the oled display? Orientation? Which side of the pcb? I'm guessing it's easier before soldering all the switches since I have a plate also.
Anyone? Terry?
Post by: TerryMathews on Sat, 07 July 2018, 07:45:31
Are there any guides or pictures on how to solder the connection on the pcb for the oled display? Orientation? Which side of the pcb? I'm guessing it's easier before soldering all the switches since I have a plate also.
Anyone? Terry?
Sorry, didn't see this until just now. The right angle connector is included because you can't route across the top of the board. I suggest installing the header so that it's on the bottom of the board, facing towards the bottom end (spacebar end).
I can snap a pic of mine if it helps. Please note you'll need to trim a section or the bottom casing support to accommodate the header and connector.
Post by: dorf on Sat, 07 July 2018, 12:29:21
Are there any guides or pictures on how to solder the connection on the pcb for the oled display? Orientation? Which side of the pcb? I'm guessing it's easier before soldering all the switches since I have a plate also.
Anyone? Terry?
Sorry, didn't see this until just now. The right angle connector is included because you can't route across the top of the board. I suggest installing the header so that it's on the bottom of the board, facing towards the bottom end (spacebar end).
I can snap a pic of mine if it helps. Please note you'll need to trim a section or the bottom casing support to accommodate the header and connector.
Please add a pic. I'll start on this during the week, possibly tomorrow, so if I'm 100% sure it makes it all easier. Thanks!
Post by: dorf on Mon, 09 July 2018, 14:52:25
Are there any guides or pictures on how to solder the connection on the pcb for the oled display? Orientation? Which side of the pcb? I'm guessing it's easier before soldering all the switches since I have a plate also.
Anyone? Terry?
Sorry, didn't see this until just now. The right angle connector is included because you can't route across the top of the board. I suggest installing the header so that it's on the bottom of the board, facing towards the bottom end (spacebar end).
I can snap a pic of mine if it helps. Please note you'll need to trim a section or the bottom casing support to accommodate the header and connector.
Please add a pic. I'll start on this during the week, possibly tomorrow, so if I'm 100% sure it makes it all easier. Thanks!
So I started today and this is how I did it. It definitely needs to be done before soldering switches. One of the pins are under the stab.
Bottom
(https://i.imgur.com/zwQk62f.jpg?1)
Top
(https://i.imgur.com/riCpE97.jpg?1)
Cable, pcb
(https://i.imgur.com/iYWLcqd.jpg?1)
Cable, display
(https://i.imgur.com/mR0mG4Q.jpg?1)
Testing
(https://i.imgur.com/WH26nPK.jpg)
All didn't go fine though. Plate is cut to tight for one of the iso-switches... Don't mind the brown/black stems. They are being replaced.
(https://i.imgur.com/JaxwDAM.jpg?1)
Post by: rioc on Mon, 09 July 2018, 15:07:22
Are there any guides or pictures on how to solder the connection on the pcb for the oled display? Orientation? Which side of the pcb? I'm guessing it's easier before soldering all the switches since I have a plate also.
Anyone? Terry?
Sorry, didn't see this until just now. The right angle connector is included because you can't route across the top of the board. I suggest installing the header so that it's on the bottom of the board, facing towards the bottom end (spacebar end).
I can snap a pic of mine if it helps. Please note you'll need to trim a section or the bottom casing support to accommodate the header and connector.
Please add a pic. I'll start on this during the week, possibly tomorrow, so if I'm 100% sure it makes it all easier. Thanks!
So I started today and this is how I did it. It definitely needs to be done before soldering switches. One of the pins are under the stab.
BottomShow Image(https://i.imgur.com/zwQk62f.jpg?1)
TopShow Image(https://i.imgur.com/riCpE97.jpg?1)
Cable, pcbShow Image(https://i.imgur.com/iYWLcqd.jpg?1)
Cable, displayShow Image(https://i.imgur.com/mR0mG4Q.jpg?1)
TestingShow Image(https://i.imgur.com/WH26nPK.jpg)
All didn't go fine though. Plate is cut to tight for one of the iso-switches... Don't mind the brown/black stems. They are being replaced.Show Image(https://i.imgur.com/JaxwDAM.jpg?1)
oh no, that's a bummer... had ISO planned for one of mine... I either have to dremel the plate, OR... or idk
is split left shift possible though with the plate? I could live with ANSI enter easily if I can have split left shift
Post by: dorf on Mon, 09 July 2018, 15:10:51
Are there any guides or pictures on how to solder the connection on the pcb for the oled display? Orientation? Which side of the pcb? I'm guessing it's easier before soldering all the switches since I have a plate also.
Anyone? Terry?
Sorry, didn't see this until just now. The right angle connector is included because you can't route across the top of the board. I suggest installing the header so that it's on the bottom of the board, facing towards the bottom end (spacebar end).
I can snap a pic of mine if it helps. Please note you'll need to trim a section or the bottom casing support to accommodate the header and connector.
Please add a pic. I'll start on this during the week, possibly tomorrow, so if I'm 100% sure it makes it all easier. Thanks!
So I started today and this is how I did it. It definitely needs to be done before soldering switches. One of the pins are under the stab.
BottomShow Image(https://i.imgur.com/zwQk62f.jpg?1)
TopShow Image(https://i.imgur.com/riCpE97.jpg?1)
Cable, pcbShow Image(https://i.imgur.com/iYWLcqd.jpg?1)
Cable, displayShow Image(https://i.imgur.com/mR0mG4Q.jpg?1)
TestingShow Image(https://i.imgur.com/WH26nPK.jpg)
All didn't go fine though. Plate is cut to tight for one of the iso-switches... Don't mind the brown/black stems. They are being replaced.Show Image(https://i.imgur.com/JaxwDAM.jpg?1)
oh no, that's a bummer... had ISO planned for one of mine... I either have to dremel the plate, OR... or idk
is split left shift possible though with the plate? I could live with ANSI enter easily if I can have split left shift
Split left shift was no problem.
Post by: rioc on Mon, 09 July 2018, 15:20:05
Are there any guides or pictures on how to solder the connection on the pcb for the oled display? Orientation? Which side of the pcb? I'm guessing it's easier before soldering all the switches since I have a plate also.
Anyone? Terry?
Sorry, didn't see this until just now. The right angle connector is included because you can't route across the top of the board. I suggest installing the header so that it's on the bottom of the board, facing towards the bottom end (spacebar end).
I can snap a pic of mine if it helps. Please note you'll need to trim a section or the bottom casing support to accommodate the header and connector.
Please add a pic. I'll start on this during the week, possibly tomorrow, so if I'm 100% sure it makes it all easier. Thanks!
So I started today and this is how I did it. It definitely needs to be done before soldering switches. One of the pins are under the stab.
BottomShow Image(https://i.imgur.com/zwQk62f.jpg?1)
TopShow Image(https://i.imgur.com/riCpE97.jpg?1)
Cable, pcbShow Image(https://i.imgur.com/iYWLcqd.jpg?1)
Cable, displayShow Image(https://i.imgur.com/mR0mG4Q.jpg?1)
TestingShow Image(https://i.imgur.com/WH26nPK.jpg)
All didn't go fine though. Plate is cut to tight for one of the iso-switches... Don't mind the brown/black stems. They are being replaced.Show Image(https://i.imgur.com/JaxwDAM.jpg?1)
oh no, that's a bummer... had ISO planned for one of mine... I either have to dremel the plate, OR... or idk
is split left shift possible though with the plate? I could live with ANSI enter easily if I can have split left shift
Split left shift was no problem.
ok, I can live with that... had ISO planned for the Cocaine White Case, so a crazy layout with ANSI / ISO mix will fit the cocaine crazyness
will have to edit my signature for that though ;)
Post by: EternalD on Tue, 10 July 2018, 13:29:44
On another note, I’ve soldered every switch in (my first keeb pcb solder job). Unfortunately the fn key is the only one to not work. I used a volt-ohm meter to check if it was the switch but the switch was good. Maybe I fried the connection point?
Post by: Kavik on Tue, 10 July 2018, 13:47:44
Any idea if led holtites will fit? I’m debating between soldering and using holtites as I’ve been told they are easier.
On another note, I’ve soldered every switch in (my first keeb pcb solder job). Unfortunately the fn key is the only one to not work. I used a volt-ohm meter to check if it was the switch but the switch was good. Maybe I fried the connection point?
When you say you tested the switch with a voltmeter, did you test it by itself or soldered in? Have you tested the pads without a switch soldered in with the voltmeter? If you don't get a reading from the bottom of the PCB, try the pads on the top. If you get a reading on the top but not the bottom, you probably overheated the pads and lifted them.
Or do you mean that Fn doesn't register on keyboardtester.com? I've never been able to get an Fn key to register before, so I have to test a key on layer 1 for example to know if it works. If that doesn't work, it could be that you mapped it wrong.
Sorry if you've already tried these. Just trying to understand exactly what you've tried, so that we can find a solution.
Post by: EternalD on Tue, 10 July 2018, 13:52:55
Thanks for the reply.Any idea if led holtites will fit? I’m debating between soldering and using holtites as I’ve been told they are easier.
On another note, I’ve soldered every switch in (my first keeb pcb solder job). Unfortunately the fn key is the only one to not work. I used a volt-ohm meter to check if it was the switch but the switch was good. Maybe I fried the connection point?
When you say you tested the switch with a voltmeter, did you test it by itself or soldered in? Have you tested the pads without a switch soldered in with the voltmeter? If you don't get a reading from the bottom of the PCB, try the pads on the top. If you get a reading on the top but not the bottom, you probably overheated the pads and lifted them.
Or do you mean that Fn doesn't register on keyboardtester.com? I've never been able to get an Fn key to register before, so I have to test a key on layer 1 for example to know if it works. If that doesn't work, it could be that you mapped it wrong.
Sorry if you've already tried these. Just trying to understand exactly what you've tried, so that we can find a solution.
I tested with the switch soldered in from the bottom of the pcb. I put the leads of the meter on the solder points. Pressing the switch produced a result on the meter identical to every other switch (0.02 ohms I think).
Now that you mention it though, I was simply using an online key tester. How else could I test the key in question?
Post by: Kavik on Tue, 10 July 2018, 15:50:59
Thanks for the reply.Any idea if led holtites will fit? I’m debating between soldering and using holtites as I’ve been told they are easier.
On another note, I’ve soldered every switch in (my first keeb pcb solder job). Unfortunately the fn key is the only one to not work. I used a volt-ohm meter to check if it was the switch but the switch was good. Maybe I fried the connection point?
When you say you tested the switch with a voltmeter, did you test it by itself or soldered in? Have you tested the pads without a switch soldered in with the voltmeter? If you don't get a reading from the bottom of the PCB, try the pads on the top. If you get a reading on the top but not the bottom, you probably overheated the pads and lifted them.
Or do you mean that Fn doesn't register on keyboardtester.com? I've never been able to get an Fn key to register before, so I have to test a key on layer 1 for example to know if it works. If that doesn't work, it could be that you mapped it wrong.
Sorry if you've already tried these. Just trying to understand exactly what you've tried, so that we can find a solution.
I tested with the switch soldered in from the bottom of the pcb. I put the leads of the meter on the solder points. Pressing the switch produced a result on the meter identical to every other switch (0.02 ohms I think).
Now that you mention it though, I was simply using an online key tester. How else could I test the key in question?
As far as I know, if a key is mapped to Fn, it will never show a keypress on something like keyboardtester.com because it's not sending a signal to the computer but rather to the controller telling it to use a different layer.
I test it by setting up a second layer and assigning one key to something very different from its first layer, say, mapping the J key to Backspace or something like that. Then, on keyboardtester.com, when you press Fn + J, you'll see Backspace register. Or, if you only want to verify that the key physically works, you could temporarily map it to something else like Menu, make sure it registers, and then map it back to Fn.
Post by: Corgi Butts on Tue, 10 July 2018, 17:30:59
Post by: TerryMathews on Tue, 10 July 2018, 20:17:28
Post by: Corgi Butts on Wed, 11 July 2018, 10:51:38
Post by: portbaron on Fri, 13 July 2018, 14:31:03
Post by: TheKeyCompany on Fri, 13 July 2018, 15:32:53
So how do you get the pcb into bootloader/reset mode to flash it with a new hex? There's no Fn key default.
ralt is Fn on the default keymap
Fn+BACKSPACE is bootloader
Post by: MrSteve920 on Sat, 14 July 2018, 20:37:52
Post by: Delirious on Sat, 14 July 2018, 21:22:10
What needs to be done to allow the backlight to be toggled on/off? Or is that not something that is possible? Currently mapping the backlight toggle to any key causes nothing to happen.
Not just backlighting, media keys(volume up, volume down, play next,....) are not working also, regardless of layers. It's pretty annoying and hopefully there will be a fix soon.
Post by: TerryMathews on Sun, 15 July 2018, 03:38:44
What needs to be done to allow the backlight to be toggled on/off? Or is that not something that is possible? Currently mapping the backlight toggle to any key causes nothing to happen.
This was an error on my part: wasn't enabled in rules.mk when I merged the last PR. It's now fixed, as soon as the QMK team merges the commit LED code should be working correctly even using QMK Configurator.
Not just backlighting, media keys(volume up, volume down, play next,....) are not working also, regardless of layers. It's pretty annoying and hopefully there will be a fix soon.
Media keys are working correctly on my PC - Windows 7. Can you share your keymap file with me so I can test?
Post by: Delirious on Sun, 15 July 2018, 09:27:43
What needs to be done to allow the backlight to be toggled on/off? Or is that not something that is possible? Currently mapping the backlight toggle to any key causes nothing to happen.
This was an error on my part: wasn't enabled in rules.mk when I merged the last PR. It's now fixed, as soon as the QMK team merges the commit LED code should be working correctly even using QMK Configurator.Not just backlighting, media keys(volume up, volume down, play next,....) are not working also, regardless of layers. It's pretty annoying and hopefully there will be a fix soon.
Media keys are working correctly on my PC - Windows 7. Can you share your keymap file with me so I can test?
please see attached
Post by: TerryMathews on Sun, 15 July 2018, 14:56:59
What needs to be done to allow the backlight to be toggled on/off? Or is that not something that is possible? Currently mapping the backlight toggle to any key causes nothing to happen.
This was an error on my part: wasn't enabled in rules.mk when I merged the last PR. It's now fixed, as soon as the QMK team merges the commit LED code should be working correctly even using QMK Configurator.Not just backlighting, media keys(volume up, volume down, play next,....) are not working also, regardless of layers. It's pretty annoying and hopefully there will be a fix soon.
Media keys are working correctly on my PC - Windows 7. Can you share your keymap file with me so I can test?
please see attached
Try this. I uncommented the #define for KC_TRNS and defined it for the KC_TR you were using. Volume controls are now working correctly here. I suspect you were never compiling successfully.
Also want to point out that you unmapped both RESET and KC_PAUS, so you no longer have a soft reset to bootloader. I'd recommend putting one of them back on your function layer.
Both shifts plus pause or RESET will take you to bootloader.
Post by: MrSteve920 on Sun, 15 July 2018, 23:43:35
What needs to be done to allow the backlight to be toggled on/off? Or is that not something that is possible? Currently mapping the backlight toggle to any key causes nothing to happen.
This was an error on my part: wasn't enabled in rules.mk when I merged the last PR. It's now fixed, as soon as the QMK team merges the commit LED code should be working correctly even using QMK Configurator.Not just backlighting, media keys(volume up, volume down, play next,....) are not working also, regardless of layers. It's pretty annoying and hopefully there will be a fix soon.
Media keys are working correctly on my PC - Windows 7. Can you share your keymap file with me so I can test?
Haha, I love your comment on the commit. My eyes totally glazed over that when I was trying to troubleshoot it the other day.
Post by: Overchecken8 on Wed, 18 July 2018, 01:22:52
Post by: TheKeyCompany on Wed, 18 July 2018, 05:47:14
Just built mine and I’m having an odd issue. The entire caps lock/enter row doesn’t appear to be working. I thought it might be a problem with the firmware so I tried to just flash the default layout, but I’m QMK firmware builder every time I plug it in, the output screen flies by with a few different errors repeating over and over again (I’ll have to try again in the morning to get the exact errors). Anyone know what it could be? I thought it might be that my screw in gmk stabs might be shorting something?
You probably overtightentes your stabs. Try backing the screws off a little or install washers on them.
Post by: Overchecken8 on Wed, 18 July 2018, 11:26:46
Yup that was it. Put some electrical tape in between the screws and the PCB and now everything works great.Just built mine and I’m having an odd issue. The entire caps lock/enter row doesn’t appear to be working. I thought it might be a problem with the firmware so I tried to just flash the default layout, but I’m QMK firmware builder every time I plug it in, the output screen flies by with a few different errors repeating over and over again (I’ll have to try again in the morning to get the exact errors). Anyone know what it could be? I thought it might be that my screw in gmk stabs might be shorting something?
You probably overtightentes your stabs. Try backing the screws off a little or install washers on them.
Post by: oumakavoula on Tue, 24 July 2018, 09:05:37
Post by: pixelpusher on Tue, 24 July 2018, 10:36:10
Post by: TheKeyCompany on Tue, 24 July 2018, 10:41:39
Are you planning to stock more of the silver or black MX plates? would love to pick up an extra at some point
Yes, Im restocking everything at the moment. No ETA as of yet. PCBs will be the first to arrive. Probably 6 weeks at this point.
Post by: tex_live_utility on Thu, 26 July 2018, 21:22:18
Are you restocking whole kits, or just parts (i.e. I'll have to order them as they are restocked so as not to miss out)?Are you planning to stock more of the silver or black MX plates? would love to pick up an extra at some point
Yes, Im restocking everything at the moment. No ETA as of yet. PCBs will be the first to arrive. Probably 6 weeks at this point.
Post by: TheKeyCompany on Fri, 27 July 2018, 08:58:20
Are you restocking whole kits, or just parts (i.e. I'll have to order them as they are restocked so as not to miss out)?Are you planning to stock more of the silver or black MX plates? would love to pick up an extra at some point
Yes, Im restocking everything at the moment. No ETA as of yet. PCBs will be the first to arrive. Probably 6 weeks at this point.
PCBs will be restocked first, some plates remain in stock. Full kits will be the last thing to arrive as its a very slow process.
Post by: tex_live_utility on Fri, 27 July 2018, 19:43:01
Are you restocking whole kits, or just parts (i.e. I'll have to order them as they are restocked so as not to miss out)?Are you planning to stock more of the silver or black MX plates? would love to pick up an extra at some point
Yes, Im restocking everything at the moment. No ETA as of yet. PCBs will be the first to arrive. Probably 6 weeks at this point.
PCBs will be restocked first, some plates remain in stock. Full kits will be the last thing to arrive as its a very slow process.
I don't mind waiting, I'm just trying to make sure that everything will be in stock simultaneously. Are you planning on making sure the OLED kit is available concurrently as well, or should I grab one soon in anticipation of eventually getting the kit?
Post by: thinkriver on Sat, 28 July 2018, 06:41:15
PCBs will be restocked first, some plates remain in stock. Full kits will be the last thing to arrive as its a very slow process.
Will you also provide assembly service for full kit when it is restocked?
Post by: TerryMathews on Sat, 28 July 2018, 12:48:35
Are you restocking whole kits, or just parts (i.e. I'll have to order them as they are restocked so as not to miss out)?Are you planning to stock more of the silver or black MX plates? would love to pick up an extra at some point
Yes, Im restocking everything at the moment. No ETA as of yet. PCBs will be the first to arrive. Probably 6 weeks at this point.
PCBs will be restocked first, some plates remain in stock. Full kits will be the last thing to arrive as its a very slow process.
I don't mind waiting, I'm just trying to make sure that everything will be in stock simultaneously. Are you planning on making sure the OLED kit is available concurrently as well, or should I grab one soon in anticipation of eventually getting the kit?
OLED kits are sourced domestically, so the lead time for TKC to get them is days, not months.
Post by: alphabirth on Fri, 31 August 2018, 17:59:20
Post by: Delirious on Fri, 31 August 2018, 18:25:55
I have a question for anybody whose installed the PCB and plate into the Dolch PAC's G80-1813: is everything held into place by the plate cutouts on the upper part of the case, or is there a better method? The screw holes don't line up at all, unfortunately.
I put clay on the bottom to stop the pcb from moving. Good old fiction
(https://i.imgur.com/FztzKd1.jpg?1)
(https://i.imgur.com/W4FGAgO.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/KdRbz2o.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/XZdBJjp.jpg)
Post by: alphabirth on Fri, 31 August 2018, 18:40:03
Post by: pixelpusher on Sun, 09 September 2018, 19:40:57
Are you planning to stock more of the silver or black MX plates? would love to pick up an extra at some point
Yes, Im restocking everything at the moment. No ETA as of yet. PCBs will be the first to arrive. Probably 6 weeks at this point.
Waiting kinda patiently. It’s been over 6 weeks. Any updates on plates or PCBs?
Post by: h9n9n3 on Thu, 13 September 2018, 14:17:08
(1) got the hex file using: https://config.qmk.fm/#/tkc1800/LAYOUT
(2) and flashed the hex file (both flip and QMK toolbox), the default LED control was 'breathing'.
But I wanna have static LEDs. Should I compile something? Thanks in advance, and pic of the board:
[attach=1]
Post by: pixelpusher on Thu, 13 September 2018, 15:36:27
Hi, fellas it must be a noob question but when I
(1) got the hex file using: https://config.qmk.fm/#/tkc1800/LAYOUT
(2) and flashed the hex file (both flip and QMK toolbox), the default LED control was 'breathing'.
But I wanna have static LEDs. Should I compile something? Thanks in advance, and pic of the board:
(Attachment Link)
Hmm, I still haven't built mine so I never saw that the default layout didn't have a function layer present yet.
First, you'll want to make one of the keys on the 0 layer a modifier key (MO). This will be a key that, when held, allows you to go to the specified layer. Probably want to pick the right control or menu key for it. Select one of those keys and then click on "MO" in the "Layer Functions" category. You'll need to change the zero to a 1 when it goes on your layout.
[attachimg=1]
Next, click on the layer 1 option and assign a key to be "BL Cycle." I'll use "B" for backlight in this example:
[attachimg=2]
You might as well add some other functionality while you're at it like increase and decrease brightness and some media keys.
Once you have it set like you want, fill in the Keymap name to something unique and press "compile" in the top right of the editor. It will take a few seconds but should finish with a message saying "file size is fine"
[attachimg=3]
You'll then have an option to download the firmware at the bottom:
[attachimg=4]
Flash the new firmware to your board, hold the function key and press your BL Cycle keybind.
Super jealous of that white case. It looks so nice.
Post by: h9n9n3 on Fri, 14 September 2018, 06:08:25
Hi, fellas it must be a noob question but when I
(1) got the hex file using: https://config.qmk.fm/#/tkc1800/LAYOUT
(2) and flashed the hex file (both flip and QMK toolbox), the default LED control was 'breathing'.
But I wanna have static LEDs. Should I compile something? Thanks in advance, and pic of the board:
(Attachment Link)
Hmm, I still haven't built mine so I never saw that the default layout didn't have a function layer present yet.
First, you'll want to make one of the keys on the 0 layer a modifier key (MO). This will be a key that, when held, allows you to go to the specified layer. Probably want to pick the right control or menu key for it. Select one of those keys and then click on "MO" in the "Layer Functions" category. You'll need to change the zero to a 1 when it goes on your layout.
(Attachment Link)
Next, click on the layer 1 option and assign a key to be "BL Cycle." I'll use "B" for backlight in this example:
(Attachment Link)
You might as well add some other functionality while you're at it like increase and decrease brightness and some media keys.
Once you have it set like you want, fill in the Keymap name to something unique and press "compile" in the top right of the editor. It will take a few seconds but should finish with a message saying "file size is fine"
(Attachment Link)
You'll then have an option to download the firmware at the bottom:
(Attachment Link)
Flash the new firmware to your board, hold the function key and press your BL Cycle keybind.
Super jealous of that white case. It looks so nice.
Hi! Thanks for lots of details. I doubted my setup so I tried again, but once I press the BL cycle, the LEDs just go off.
Also, when I press the BL toggle, the LEDs are still in breathe mode. Hmmmmm. Maybe the problem is just for mine?
The case gives out retro look so well which I was just hoping to achieve!
Post by: Mystogan on Sat, 15 September 2018, 18:39:22
Hi! Thanks for lots of details. I doubted my setup so I tried again, but once I press the BL cycle, the LEDs just go off.
Also, when I press the BL toggle, the LEDs are still in breathe mode. Hmmmmm. Maybe the problem is just for mine?
The case gives out retro look so well which I was just hoping to achieve!
I used this method for flashing: https://www.reddit.com/r/olkb/comments/7pnsrc/qmk_guide_for_flashing_keyboards/
Then inside "\QMK\keyboards\tkc1800\keymaps\default\keymap.c" changed one of the function layer keys to "BL_BRTG" which should toggle the breathing effect.
For a list of all other keycodes see here: https://beta.docs.qmk.fm/reference/keycodes
Post by: Mystogan on Sat, 15 September 2018, 18:56:14
All in all a great PCB to work with.
The plate however doesn't work with the ISO layout, as a previous post mentioned.
A bit of a nuisance but a quick dremel session fixed that - had to dremel the case anyway.
Will that be fixed in the next round?
Anyways, does anyone know how to change the brightness of the indicator LEDs in QMK, currently it is set at max and it's annoyingly bright.
I can dim it manually by placing masking tape over the LEDs or adding resistors to them but would rather not open up the case again.
Post by: BlindAssassin111 on Sat, 15 September 2018, 21:17:09
Finally got round to building mine, ordered a plate and PCB to fit on a standard white G80-1800.
All in all a great PCB to work with.
The plate however doesn't work with the ISO layout, as a previous post mentioned.
A bit of a nuisance but a quick dremel session fixed that - had to dremel the case anyway.
Will that be fixed in the next round?
Anyways, does anyone know how to change the brightness of the indicator LEDs in QMK, currently it is set at max and it's annoyingly bright.
I can dim it manually by placing masking tape over the LEDs or adding resistors to them but would rather not open up the case again.
I fixed the plate right after the issue was noticed, all new plates have the fix. As for the LEDs I have no idea...
Post by: Mystogan on Sat, 15 September 2018, 23:19:59
Finally got round to building mine, ordered a plate and PCB to fit on a standard white G80-1800.
All in all a great PCB to work with.
The plate however doesn't work with the ISO layout, as a previous post mentioned.
A bit of a nuisance but a quick dremel session fixed that - had to dremel the case anyway.
Will that be fixed in the next round?
Anyways, does anyone know how to change the brightness of the indicator LEDs in QMK, currently it is set at max and it's annoyingly bright.
I can dim it manually by placing masking tape over the LEDs or adding resistors to them but would rather not open up the case again.
I fixed the plate right after the issue was noticed, all new plates have the fix. As for the LEDs I have no idea...
That's good to know.
Now to decide whether I need another 1800-layout keyboard...
Post by: CodeMonkeyX on Wed, 03 October 2018, 23:12:05
Also, how often do group buys like this come around? I love the gray and orange scheme, but obviously sold out.
Post by: portbaron on Wed, 03 October 2018, 23:13:37
So I am new to all this, and was checking out the site for this kit (https://thekey.company/collections/tkc-1800/products/tkc1800-kit?variant=12140434620516) and I am wondering, why do they offer additional PCB's and Plates on the order? Are they purely as backup if you mess up the soldering or something in assembly?You can put them in regular cherry g80 1800s.
Also, how often do group buys like this come around? I love the gray and orange scheme, but obviously sold out.
Post by: TerryMathews on Fri, 05 October 2018, 08:24:25
So I am new to all this, and was checking out the site for this kit (https://thekey.company/collections/tkc-1800/products/tkc1800-kit?variant=12140434620516) and I am wondering, why do they offer additional PCB's and Plates on the order? Are they purely as backup if you mess up the soldering or something in assembly?You can put them in regular cherry g80 1800s.
Also, how often do group buys like this come around? I love the gray and orange scheme, but obviously sold out.
Or Dolch PACs or TX1800s.
Post by: Corgi Butts on Fri, 05 October 2018, 08:34:23
(https://i.imgur.com/RbySnEO.jpg)
Post by: TheKeyCompany on Fri, 05 October 2018, 08:37:46
Just realized I never shared my finished build in this thread! Candy Pink TKC-1800 with 67g lubed Zealios and GMK Laser.Show Image(https://i.imgur.com/RbySnEO.jpg)
HOTDAMN! That looks nice! Thanks for sharing! How do you like it?
Post by: Corgi Butts on Fri, 05 October 2018, 08:40:53
Post by: TheKeyCompany on Fri, 05 October 2018, 08:43:49
I like it a lot so far! Although the downshifted arrow cluster is taking a bit of getting used to. My muscle memory keeps having my pinky slide over and hit the 1 key on the numpad.
It wont take long....
Any feedback on the finish / build quality?
Post by: portbaron on Fri, 05 October 2018, 13:20:23
Post by: BlindAssassin111 on Fri, 05 October 2018, 13:43:35
Guess I'll post this R1 I made a few months ago, 65g ergo clears. Used on 100 hrs or so of games etc. So far so good, the case is really nice. Got several more R2s ordered lol.
Nice! Awesome to see another Tanzanite board built.
Post by: TheKeyCompany on Fri, 05 October 2018, 13:46:23
Guess I'll post this R1 I made a few months ago, 65g ergo clears. Used on 100 hrs or so of games etc. So far so good, the case is really nice. Got several more R2s ordered lol.
"Several more....." I know who you are!
Glad you like it! Yuri looks really nice on there.
Post by: Corgi Butts on Fri, 05 October 2018, 14:12:58
I like it a lot so far! Although the downshifted arrow cluster is taking a bit of getting used to. My muscle memory keeps having my pinky slide over and hit the 1 key on the numpad.
It wont take long....
Any feedback on the finish / build quality?
The finish is top notch. :thumb: I run over it with some cleaning swabs every couple days to keep it nice and glossy. Build quality seems good, has a nice heft to it I didn't expect from a plastic case once fully assembled. The only thing that bugs me is the 2mm or so black seam that stands out where the two halves of the case meet. Shame Cherry didn't originally make it so the two halves fit together more flush.
Post by: TheKeyCompany on Fri, 05 October 2018, 14:19:28
I like it a lot so far! Although the downshifted arrow cluster is taking a bit of getting used to. My muscle memory keeps having my pinky slide over and hit the 1 key on the numpad.
It wont take long....
Any feedback on the finish / build quality?
The finish is top notch. :thumb: I run over it with some cleaning swabs every couple days to keep it nice and glossy. Build quality seems good, has a nice heft to it I didn't expect from a plastic case once fully assembled. The only thing that bugs me is the 2mm or so black seam that stands out where the two halves of the case meet. Shame Cherry didn't originally make it so the two halves fit together more flush.
Glad you like it! The microfiber cloths from 3M (https://www.amazon.com/3M-Detailing-Cloths/dp/B00S1HFKYA/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1538767148&sr=8-3&keywords=3m+detailing+cloth) work REALLY well for cleaning fingerprints off them (its what they use at car shows to clean the paint)
As far as that gap goes; Ive tried a few things to eliminate it. There is no way to get it painted without getting drips. Its frustrating to me, but is just something we have to live with. Good thing is, its not really visible on the darker colored cases.
Post by: RominRonin on Thu, 08 November 2018, 09:26:24
https://config.qmk.fm/#/tkc1800/LAYOUT
Thanks.
Post by: TerryMathews on Thu, 08 November 2018, 18:16:49
I bought a board with a TKC 1800 pcb from Mechmarket, I want to use the qmk configurator for a custom layout I want, any pointers on how to an ANSI layout with split left shift and split back space loaded into the configurator?
https://config.qmk.fm/#/tkc1800/LAYOUT
Thanks.
Hit load Default and the extra positions will be obvious
Post by: RominRonin on Fri, 09 November 2018, 10:15:41
Hit load Default and the extra positions will be obvious
Indeed, I also need to search this thread about the "failed to write..." error [hint: L.shift + R.shift + Pause to enter bootloader in the default firmware].
I really love this board, I'm interested in another PCB (maybe a couple more). The only thing is I have no idea where to source the metal bar for the space bar stabilisers, any ideas?
Post by: pixelpusher on Fri, 09 November 2018, 10:31:16
I'm assuming you are using MX switches. If you are using alps, disregard this entire post :pHit load Default and the extra positions will be obvious
Indeed, I also need to search this thread about the "failed to write..." error [hint: L.shift + R.shift + Pause to enter bootloader in the default firmware].
I really love this board, I'm interested in another PCB (maybe a couple more). The only thing is I have no idea where to source the metal bar for the space bar stabilisers, any ideas?
You'll just need to buy a 6.25u stabilizer. I don't know of anyone that sells only the wire. Most people only sell a full set of stabilizers (a 6.25 for space bar, and 4 more 2unit stabilizers for shift keys, enter, and backspace).
You'll want to buy original Cherry stabilizers, made by GMK in Germany. Choose PCB mount, not Plate mount. Some people prefer to get screw-in stabilizers b/c there is a chance of pulling the clip-in (normal) kind out of the PCB when removing the keycap. GMK Cherry stabilizers will still need to be clipped and lubricated to sound and feel the best. You can find videos and posts about how to do that. But here are some example links to what you're looking for:
Buy only a 6.25u here (and some full sets):
https://www.originativeco.com/products/cherry-screw-in-stabilizers?variant=30044585744
https://www.originativeco.com/products/cherry-pcb-mounted-stabilizer?variant=18808073285
https://www.switchtop.com/product/gmk-screw-in-pcb-stabilizers
https://mehkee.com/collections/accessories-parts/products/cherry-stabilizers?variant=7857511170076
https://sentraq.com/collections/accesories/products/cherry-screw-in-pcb-mount-stabilizers?variant=40864212042
https://zealpc.net/collections/accessories/products/authentic-cherry-pcb-plate-mount-gold-plated-stabilizers
Full sets here:
https://kbdfans.cn/products/cherry-original-pcb-stabilizers
https://www.1upkeyboards.com/shop/parts-and-tools/gmk-screw-in-stabilizers/
TLDR: Buy 6.25 PCB mount Cherry stabilizer made by GMK
Post by: TerryMathews on Fri, 09 November 2018, 12:03:38
Hit load Default and the extra positions will be obvious
Indeed, I also need to search this thread about the "failed to write..." error [hint: L.shift + R.shift + Pause to enter bootloader in the default firmware].
I really love this board, I'm interested in another PCB (maybe a couple more). The only thing is I have no idea where to source the metal bar for the space bar stabilisers, any ideas?
Failed to start write is the firmware failing to open a connection to the to the optional OLED screen. Flashing a new firmware will fix that as well, I came up with a way for the firmware to disable the screen routine if the screen is absent at power up.
Post by: pixelpusher on Fri, 16 November 2018, 12:26:49
Post by: portbaron on Fri, 16 November 2018, 20:49:48
Has anyone heard any updates on the last presale stuff? I ordered a black MX plate, and I'm still waiting to get it before I can build my original board :(Was it out of stock? I got all my stuff many months ago from last round. Maybe it will come when the new round stuff comes.
Post by: CodeMonkeyX on Sun, 18 November 2018, 18:01:52
I ordered from the website a while back, and it said that they would probably ship around late November. Getting up to around that time and was just wondering if there are any more refined estimated for shipment dates now?
Post by: alphabirth on Tue, 27 November 2018, 15:24:25
Post by: TheKeyCompany on Tue, 27 November 2018, 15:52:45
Has anyone heard any updates on the last presale stuff? I ordered a black MX plate, and I'm still waiting to get it before I can build my original board :(
Any update on the next lot of shipments?
I ordered from the website a while back, and it said that they would probably ship around late November. Getting up to around that time and was just wondering if there are any more refined estimated for shipment dates now?
Update here:
https://thekey.company/blogs/blog-updates/tkc-status-updates-gmk-terminal-tkc1800-candybar-m0lly-and-more
Post by: TerryMathews on Wed, 28 November 2018, 13:00:08
Welp, I finally got in the switches to complete my build, and once I got it all soldered up the board no longer is detected or registering input. (Doesn't show up in Device Manager, or in the enumeration list from QMK Toolbox). I can only assume I screwed something up while soldering. :'( But AFAICT, there's no obvious shorts... Is the AT90USB1286 a particularly static sensitive device? Is there a chance I've just fried it?
Unscrew your screw stabilizers. You're shorting out. You can fix it by putting a piece of electrical tape between the PCB and screw. Poke a he with a needle and the screw can go through.
Post by: Delirious on Wed, 28 November 2018, 15:10:40
Welp, I finally got in the switches to complete my build, and once I got it all soldered up the board no longer is detected or registering input. (Doesn't show up in Device Manager, or in the enumeration list from QMK Toolbox). I can only assume I screwed something up while soldering. :'( But AFAICT, there's no obvious shorts... Is the AT90USB1286 a particularly static sensitive device? Is there a chance I've just fried it?
Unscrew your screw stabilizers. You're shorting out. You can fix it by putting a piece of electrical tape between the PCB and screw. Poke a he with a needle and the screw can go through.
He's using plastic washers for all the screw-ins so I dont think those are the causes.
Try using a mini usb cable and plug the board in. If it works that means your fixed cable setup is incorrect. I think the black and red wires are in the correct positions, maybe swapping the yellow and teal
Post by: TerryMathews on Wed, 28 November 2018, 16:51:11
Welp, I finally got in the switches to complete my build, and once I got it all soldered up the board no longer is detected or registering input. (Doesn't show up in Device Manager, or in the enumeration list from QMK Toolbox). I can only assume I screwed something up while soldering. :'( But AFAICT, there's no obvious shorts... Is the AT90USB1286 a particularly static sensitive device? Is there a chance I've just fried it?
Unscrew your screw stabilizers. You're shorting out. You can fix it by putting a piece of electrical tape between the PCB and screw. Poke a he with a needle and the screw can go through.
He's using plastic washers for all the screw-ins so I dont think those are the causes.
Try using a mini usb cable and plug the board in. If it works that means your fixed cable setup is incorrect. I think the black and red wires are in the correct positions, maybe swapping the yellow and teal
My bad looking on my PC at home I see the washers now.
Looks like he's using the RJ11 jack from a Dolch PAC case. So how that's wired into the USB is relevant as well.
Definitely try a normal mini USB cable. I bet it will be fine and your issue is in the RJ11 wiring.
Post by: alphabirth on Thu, 29 November 2018, 12:36:02
Post by: alphabirth on Mon, 03 December 2018, 02:23:16
[attach=1]
Post by: glubazoid on Sun, 30 December 2018, 15:35:20
Post by: pixelpusher on Sun, 30 December 2018, 19:58:28
So I tried desoldering the RJ-11 connector as suggested, and the board started working again. I checked it out, and that particular jack was shorting out the D+ and GND pins. :/ Fortunately, I had a spare on hand, and was able to replace it. Now it's working great! I'm typing this on that board right now, and it's feeling pretty fantastic.
(Attachment Link)
That’s an awesome project. Did you do a write up anywhere? Are there photos of you progress?
Post by: 112227 on Tue, 08 January 2019, 21:08:59
Post by: pepo2181 on Fri, 11 January 2019, 09:28:17
Post by: portbaron on Fri, 11 January 2019, 22:14:59
Currently typing on the cocaine white one with lubed v2 zilents and 67g progressive springs. For fun I also put 125g springs in the Code (Fn) and Scroll lock keys.
As a side note, Tokyo Nights modifiers work pretty well with violet tendencies alphas.
(https://i.imgur.com/2CgOmpH.jpg)
Post by: LevelSteam on Fri, 11 January 2019, 22:40:46
Post by: tex_live_utility on Sun, 13 January 2019, 09:59:26
Post by: Jetstream on Mon, 21 January 2019, 23:12:40
Post by: Uleoja on Tue, 22 January 2019, 03:51:04
Post by: TheKeyCompany on Tue, 22 January 2019, 06:25:24
Could somebody tell me if this is the correct orientation for the RGB's to be installed? The white part goes on the top left part with the line?
Drop us an email to orders@thekey.company and we will make sure you’re doing it right.
Post by: TheKeyCompany on Tue, 22 January 2019, 06:28:16
Post by: Kavik on Wed, 23 January 2019, 10:04:05
This is my first build and i gotta say the white came out so clean
That's a hell of a first build! It looks great.
Post by: regionfree on Sat, 09 March 2019, 05:40:11
But I find the set extremely lacking. It lacks SKIIDATA. Can't wait for that GB to start, to complete this build.
The worst part about this build is lubing the switches. And this needs a lot of them. Oh man.
Post by: lakeboredom on Sun, 10 March 2019, 07:09:35
Post by: HotRoderX on Sun, 10 March 2019, 18:55:35
Anyone know why my tkc1800 wouldn't be working on windows10 or mac? Device is recognized no problem on my pc and laptop running windows 7.
Sounds like a driver issue maybe? Also are you using PS2 cause found PS2 is extremely hit and miss with windows 10 and MSI motherboards.
Post by: lakeboredom on Mon, 11 March 2019, 03:12:27
Post by: dexie on Thu, 28 March 2019, 01:00:26
Post by: TheKeyCompany on Thu, 28 March 2019, 06:42:48
Are there any plans to stock PCBs again?
Will be restocking soon.
Post by: GraffitiDecos on Sat, 30 March 2019, 22:51:06
Are there any plans to stock PCBs again?
Will be restocking soon.
Will full kits be available? (just got into this hobby recently and missed out on the first round(s))
Not to mention the render with SKIIDATA *insert Fry meme - Shut up and Take my money!*
Post by: TheKeyCompany on Sun, 31 March 2019, 06:03:24
Are there any plans to stock PCBs again?
Will be restocking soon.
Will full kits be available? (just got into this hobby recently and missed out on the first round(s))
Not to mention the render with SKIIDATA *insert Fry meme - Shut up and Take my money!*
Full kits in June!
Post by: TieuNgu on Sat, 13 April 2019, 16:37:22
(https://i.redd.it/1quaaw4x8or21.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/S2NI4OD.jpg)
Post by: RominRonin on Tue, 21 May 2019, 15:22:40
Sent from my Moto G (5) Plus using Tapatalk
Post by: TheKeyCompany on Tue, 21 May 2019, 15:24:57
Is there any update about further pcb, plates and/or kits production? Thanks.
Sent from my Moto G (5) Plus using Tapatalk
Actually yes! There will be some restocks next week! PCBs will be back in stock as well as Unpainted black cases, a few left over painted cases from V1.9, some plates, and a new product all together! Also, coming in a few weeks will be the release of the R3 painted cases. All new colors, some old colors making a comeback and a completely new finish as well.
Post by: buzzking00 on Tue, 21 May 2019, 20:25:58
Post by: okidna on Wed, 22 May 2019, 05:31:44
Seems like a successful GB, are you guys planning another round? :)
Hehehe TKC literally just posted an info about R3 above your post.
Post by: RominRonin on Wed, 22 May 2019, 13:07:56
There will be some restocks next week! PCBs will be back in stock...
Great news.
I'm curious about something - how well does the TKC 1800 work without a plate, have you tried it? Would you recommend it? Thanks
Post by: BlindAssassin111 on Wed, 22 May 2019, 13:15:58
I'm curious about something - how well does the TKC 1800 work without a plate, have you tried it? Would you recommend it? Thanks
The original G80-1800 was plateless, so it will perfrom similarly. I haven't typed on one without the plate though, so not sure on feel.
Post by: pepo2181 on Fri, 24 May 2019, 13:08:56
Actually yes! There will be some restocks next week! PCBs will be back in stock as well as Unpainted black cases, a few left over painted cases from V1.9, some plates, and a new product all together! Also, coming in a few weeks will be the release of the R3 painted cases. All new colors, some old colors making a comeback and a completely new finish as well.
[/quote]
Ohh!! That's awesome news!!
Post by: RominRonin on Fri, 31 May 2019, 06:33:08
Post by: TheKeyCompany on Fri, 31 May 2019, 07:58:03
The pcb is restocked, I can’t see any other restocks or new items under the tkc1800 section yet though...
If you join our Discord (https://discord.gg/n353ruC) you'll get full update details. Its much easier this way for me to keep everyone in the loop.
We restocked PCBs. I have to get an inventory on the plates on Monday. We are waiting on diffusers for unpainted cases. Most everything with the exception of painted cases will be in stock by mid week next week.
Post by: blighty on Thu, 06 June 2019, 04:43:23
Post by: lakeboredom on Thu, 06 June 2019, 05:06:05
Post by: TheKeyCompany on Thu, 06 June 2019, 05:22:56
What happened with the photo contest?
Gonna kick it off right after we launch the new website! And shortly after we will release R3. I didn't originally plan on it taking this long, however. I may add some consolation prizes for that reason.
Post by: lakeboredom on Thu, 06 June 2019, 05:25:53
Oh cool, can't wait to see round 3. My metallic grey is my favorite kb. Thanks for the updateWhat happened with the photo contest?
Gonna kick it off right after we launch the new website! And shortly after we will release R3. I didn't originally plan on it taking this long, however. I may add some consolation prizes for that reason.
Sent from my MotoG3 using Tapatalk
Post by: Muammar on Sat, 28 September 2019, 21:46:51
Post by: ESJvR on Thu, 17 August 2023, 11:09:02
Welp, I finally got in the switches to complete my build, and once I got it all soldered up the board no longer is detected or registering input. (Doesn't show up in Device Manager, or in the enumeration list from QMK Toolbox). I can only assume I screwed something up while soldering. :'( But AFAICT, there's no obvious shorts... Is the AT90USB1286 a particularly static sensitive device? Is there a chance I've just fried it?Hi, I‘m pretty late to this thread, but still wanted to ask if anyone knows where I can buy this kind of daughterboard for the LEDs thats shown in the image. I have a PAC Case and TKC1800 PCB too and would love using the LEDs without bending them too much to the spot. Thanks in advance :) (https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20230817/e9974ae6945e2fc9709aac0f7dc941a1.jpg)