It's so tall
I'm in, the only thing I am curious about is having the option for feet / raised angle.
I will do unholy things to get this in my hands.
I will do even more unholy things to get risers that bring the angle up to the fc660c with it's feet out.
Anyone requested anything for the FC980 series?? Because that's my jam.
Not a fan of visible logos.
Your logo is the design. It is instantly recognizable. Let the design be your signature.
A regular atelier wouldn't put their logo on the back of a nice suit. For those that care about labels, they place it tastefully on the inside of the blazer, like the approach you took with the Norbaforce.
The purpose of logos is for people to show off a brand - the intersection of conspicuous consumption and marketing. This item goes in your house - who are you showing off the brand to? Do you really need to be reminded that Norbauer made this case? Worse is that the logo design has multiple colors that detract from the asthetic. It reminds me of the colors and shape of the old Osprey logo on backpacks. Osprey finally decided to simplify their logo to a white logo because the original oval colored logo really clashed with several of the color options they offered and just looked dated.
If I was forced to live with a logo or branding on my keyboard I think the best solution was the Evil80 group buy, where users could create their own logo and have it machined and anodized in the color of their choice, both on the front and the bottom. In my case, I just left the logo blank.
Not a fan of visible logos.
Your logo is the design. It is instantly recognizable. Let the design be your signature.
A regular atelier wouldn't put their logo on the back of a nice suit. For those that care about labels, they place it tastefully on the inside of the blazer, like the approach you took with the Norbaforce.
The purpose of logos is for people to show off a brand - the intersection of conspicuous consumption and marketing. This item goes in your house - who are you showing off the brand to? Do you really need to be reminded that Norbauer made this case? Worse is that the logo design has multiple colors that detract from the asthetic. It reminds me of the colors and shape of the old Osprey logo on backpacks. Osprey finally decided to simplify their logo to a white logo because the original oval colored logo really clashed with several of the color options they offered and just looked dated.
If I was forced to live with a logo or branding on my keyboard I think the best solution was the Evil80 group buy, where users could create their own logo and have it machined and anodized in the color of their choice, both on the front and the bottom. In my case, I just left the logo blank.
I understand the sentiment, and I do agree that Norbauer doesn't need branding for people to know the case is of his design - however, I think the way it is incorporated here is quite tasteful and the logo itself is pretty cool. I can see why people wouldn't like it but I also think it's fairly inoffensively placed where it is.
Keyboards aren't suits and to me this adds to the design rather than taking away from it, not necessarily as a branding statement or "show off" but just as an addon.
EU proxy, please :thumb:
Have you considered sharper bezels on the corners instead of the rounded cone shape? I think sharper ones would be more in line with the whole 'brick' idea.
That's fair; my opinion, with a few grains of salt, is in favor of sharper bezels, but the current design still looks great.Have you considered sharper bezels on the corners instead of the rounded cone shape? I think sharper ones would be more in line with the whole 'brick' idea.
Well, I guess "brick" per se isn't exactly what I'm going for, otherwise I might have done for sharp edges rather than chamfers entirely. "Hefty and industrial" might be a better way of putting it. :rolleyes:
That's fair; my opinion, with a few grains of salt, is in favor of sharper bezels, but the current design still looks great.Have you considered sharper bezels on the corners instead of the rounded cone shape? I think sharper ones would be more in line with the whole 'brick' idea.
Well, I guess "brick" per se isn't exactly what I'm going for, otherwise I might have done for sharp edges rather than chamfers entirely. "Hefty and industrial" might be a better way of putting it. :rolleyes:
That's fair; my opinion, with a few grains of salt, is in favor of sharper bezels, but the current design still looks great.Have you considered sharper bezels on the corners instead of the rounded cone shape? I think sharper ones would be more in line with the whole 'brick' idea.
Well, I guess "brick" per se isn't exactly what I'm going for, otherwise I might have done for sharp edges rather than chamfers entirely. "Hefty and industrial" might be a better way of putting it. :rolleyes:
I like those too, and in fact would like to do a 90-degree angle bezel on a case at some point. I just didn't feel that it worked well for this design due to the inherent slope.
can I ask why you don't like the idea of USB C compatibility? I ask because I am trying to slowly shift over to USB-C one standard to rule them all. I love the prototype and would love for it to have and perhaps even include one of the Hasu controllers? Are a controller of your own design? either would be nice.None of the daughter boards available for the fc660c have a USB-C connector and I very highly doubt that hasu would change his connector of choice at this point.
Is this compatible with the FC660M as well? I kind of want to use this case with a clueboard pcb and alps :)
WHEN WILL THE SPENDING STOP!?
survey done :D
Also, funny thought: Anyone else use their FC660C as a travel board? This case is gonna change the whole dynamic of my keyboard line-up 🙂
I was previously 100% in, but I won't be with the logo in its current state. :( For me to buy it the branding would have to be, at the very most, nearly invisible - like the capacitance formula on the original black case, or possibly recessed into the aluminum with no added colors like rama's stuff.
whoever buys this keyboard looks, among other things, for a small size and portability, I think that with this design loses those qualities.
One thing that bothers me though, is the sides. They seem way too thick/wide. They look as wide as a 1u keycap. But this might be just a personal preference as I dislike Mekanisk Fjell, Rama M65, KbdFans 5°, etc. for this reason.
I guess it's jut bad luck that I don't like the Fjell case design and prefer things a bit 'smoother'. I wasn't exactly happy when KBDFans also went for a more "industrialized" look for the KBD661. IIRC that did not work out well for him either.Show Image(https://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/1473/3902/articles/IMG_4877.PNG?v=1512979265)
Pic below is more in line with what I was expecting for this case:Show Image(https://i.redd.it/5th3j0bingzz.jpg)
Ah well, let's see how things go.
can I ask why you don't like the idea of USB C compatibility? I ask because I am trying to slowly shift over to USB-C one standard to rule them all. I love the prototype and would love for it to have and perhaps even include one of the Hasu controllers? Are a controller of your own design? either would be nice.None of the daughter boards available for the fc660c have a USB-C connector and I very highly doubt that hasu would change his connector of choice at this point.
Ridiculously jazzed for this case omg.
Any idea on how far away from a GB we might be? It would be useful to know just so I can budget for this totally necessary expense
There was also mention of an EU proxy further up in the thread, relieved to know that's potentially a thing :D
(also if anyone can source a sticker for the capacitance formula I'd be super interested in getting one of those on here)
Ridiculously jazzed for this case omg.
Any idea on how far away from a GB we might be? It would be useful to know just so I can budget for this totally necessary expense
I wasn't exactly happy when KBDFans also went for a more "industrialized" look for the KBD661.
Awesome as usual, looks like I had better buy a 660C and start saving for this. Also it just occurred to me, have you ever considered making a case for the HHKB? I've heard and presume this is a much more complex task due to the plate/lack thereof?
Awesome as usual, looks like I had better buy a 660C and start saving for this. Also it just occurred to me, have you ever considered making a case for the HHKB? I've heard and presume this is a much more complex task due to the plate/lack thereof?
The housings and plate (and top piece) is the same piece on the HHKB, whereas with this, RF, etc they're different pieces which is why it's complex :confused:
can I ask why you don't like the idea of USB C compatibility? I ask because I am trying to slowly shift over to USB-C one standard to rule them all. I love the prototype and would love for it to have and perhaps even include one of the Hasu controllers? Are a controller of your own design? either would be nice.None of the daughter boards available for the fc660c have a USB-C connector and I very highly doubt that hasu would change his connector of choice at this point.
^ this
I get the desire, but I just don't think that conceptual purity or OCD completionism justify the fuss and extra expense. Somebody will just come out with a new standard in a few years to replace USB-C and we'll be in the same situation. Embrace the technological chaos. :)
Awesome as usual, looks like I had better buy a 660C and start saving for this. Also it just occurred to me, have you ever considered making a case for the HHKB? I've heard and presume this is a much more complex task due to the plate/lack thereof?
The housings and plate (and top piece) is the same piece on the HHKB, whereas with this, RF, etc they're different pieces which is why it's complex :confused:
I guess it's jut bad luck that I don't like the Fjell case design and prefer things a bit 'smoother'. I wasn't exactly happy when KBDFans also went for a more "industrialized" look for the KBD661. IIRC that did not work out well for him either.Show Image(https://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/1473/3902/articles/IMG_4877.PNG?v=1512979265)
Pic below is more in line with what I was expecting for this case:Show Image(https://i.redd.it/5th3j0bingzz.jpg)
Ah well, let's see how things go.
I wasn't exactly happy when KBDFans also went for a more "industrialized" look for the KBD661.
I guess we just have different tastes. I had never seen that design before, but I think it's absolutely fantastic.
Awesome as usual, looks like I had better buy a 660C and start saving for this. Also it just occurred to me, have you ever considered making a case for the HHKB? I've heard and presume this is a much more complex task due to the plate/lack thereof?
The housings and plate (and top piece) is the same piece on the HHKB, whereas with this, RF, etc they're different pieces which is why it's complex :confused:
Ahhh gotcha, looks like you've done a really nice job with the plate you just posted in the discord btw =]. So essentially somebody would most likely need to either design and manufacture their own housings+plate similar to that of the RF etc or design a case that could somehow encompass the existing housing/plate/top piece within it?
It was actually supposed to look like a cherry cap not an SA one which ended up going over a lot of people's heads. Shame too because the board was super unique which is something that I personally really appreciate.I guess it's jut bad luck that I don't like the Fjell case design and prefer things a bit 'smoother'. I wasn't exactly happy when KBDFans also went for a more "industrialized" look for the KBD661. IIRC that did not work out well for him either.Show Image(https://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/1473/3902/articles/IMG_4877.PNG?v=1512979265)
Pic below is more in line with what I was expecting for this case:Show Image(https://i.redd.it/5th3j0bingzz.jpg)
Ah well, let's see how things go.I wasn't exactly happy when KBDFans also went for a more "industrialized" look for the KBD661.
I guess we just have different tastes. I had never seen that design before, but I think it's absolutely fantastic.
don't quote me on this but I swear I read on Reddit that the KBD661 design was based on SA Keycap. That KBDfan's was told he should do a case based on the angle and profile of a SA cap and whelp.. he did cause it does look like a SA cap. I think it turned out nice and was unique.. not the same cookie cutter look everything seems to get.
Awesome as usual, looks like I had better buy a 660C and start saving for this. Also it just occurred to me, have you ever considered making a case for the HHKB? I've heard and presume this is a much more complex task due to the plate/lack thereof?
The housings and plate (and top piece) is the same piece on the HHKB, whereas with this, RF, etc they're different pieces which is why it's complex :confused:
Ahhh gotcha, looks like you've done a really nice job with the plate you just posted in the discord btw =]. So essentially somebody would most likely need to either design and manufacture their own housings+plate similar to that of the RF etc or design a case that could somehow encompass the existing housing/plate/top piece within it?
Two options to use the PCB is HHKB-like construction, where the housings, plate, and top piece is the same piece, or RF-like construction, where the housings, plate, and top is all separate.
I think most want the HHKB-like when they think of a replacement HHKB case. You could do either though.
Not a fan of visible logos.
Your logo is the design. It is instantly recognizable. Let the design be your signature.
A regular atelier wouldn't put their logo on the back of a nice suit. For those that care about labels, they place it tastefully on the inside of the blazer, like the approach you took with the Norbaforce.
The purpose of logos is for people to show off a brand - the intersection of conspicuous consumption and marketing. This item goes in your house - who are you showing off the brand to? Do you really need to be reminded that Norbauer made this case? Worse is that the logo design has multiple colors that detract from the asthetic. It reminds me of the colors and shape of the old Osprey logo on backpacks. Osprey finally decided to simplify their logo to a white logo because the original oval colored logo really clashed with several of the color options they offered and just looked dated.
If I was forced to live with a logo or branding on my keyboard I think the best solution was the Evil80 group buy, where users could create their own logo and have it machined and anodized in the color of their choice, both on the front and the bottom. In my case, I just left the logo blank.
I understand the sentiment, and I do agree that Norbauer doesn't need branding for people to know the case is of his design - however, I think the way it is incorporated here is quite tasteful and the logo itself is pretty cool. I can see why people wouldn't like it but I also think it's fairly inoffensively placed where it is.
Keyboards aren't suits and to me this adds to the design rather than taking away from it, not necessarily as a branding statement or "show off" but just as an addon.
Yes, this is pretty much the rationale. I'm already on the record as kind of hating conspicuous branding and wanting to avoid it on my stuff, but I've been surprised by how many people have expressly asked me to add some kind of "maker's mark," and this is my small gesture in that direction. I personally love the branding on a certain narrow set of things (Schoolhouse Electric lamps and clocks, Leica cameras, Montblanc pens and leather goods) and hate it on others (clothing, and pretty much everything else). I think it really just depends on the execution, my feelings about and sense of personal connection to the company/maker, and how visually obtrusive it is.
I mean, if for some odd reason people want to show that their case is something that came from me, well, I'm flattered and don't mind obliging, but I do want to keep it unobtrusive, so my requirements are: a) it be visually subtle and 2) actually add to the aesthetic properties of the object. I happen to love enamel-and-metal badges, though, and I think I could do something cool with it. But don't worry: if I can't find a way to pull it off nicely, I'll just leave it blank. As I see it now, the enamel color will vary based on which finish you select and should be complementary to that finish.
Re Wetherbee's point about home use, a lot of people actually use their keyboards in workplaces and view it as one of the few ways of adding something unique to their space, so a bit of signaling is actually a (perhaps guilty) part of the pleasure for some people. Anyway, let's not pretend that this hobby isn't at some level about a form of conspicuous consumption, even if we're just making it conspicuous to ourselves and our private aesthetic/tactile enthusiasms. ;) These are inherently fanciful objects.
Wow that thing is a brick lol, looks great though it might be too tall for me.
Sounds like something I would love, good luck!Wow that thing is a brick lol, looks great though it might be too tall for me.
I have a design idea I'm working on with the CNC workshop that might make it possible to retain the overall heft and look of the piece but reduce the height a bit more for ergonomics, by about, say, 4-5mm. I'm currently printing up a quick SLA prototype to see if it's feasible.
In short: you can expect the design to remain overall the same in look and feel but, for now, assume the height will be reduced as much as the physics of the situation will allow. :)
I ordered a Hasu controller, incidentally, and should be able to confirm the fit as soon as it arrives, but since it was designed to fit the hole profile of the original OEM case, we should be good already.
any chance for the retro fridge color option?
Is this color meant to pair well with the stock keycaps?any chance for the retro fridge color option?
I'm trying to reduce the logistical burden (and long shipping wait times) of having people order so many wildly varying powder coating colors, so in future I think I'm going to pick one or two "standard" options that I can turn around in one big batch quickly and then anything else will be a custom color for people who really particularly need something quite specific. So, yes, it should be possible to get RR on this run, but it sadly will probably be more expensive.
I personally really like the Photograher's Gray finish I've selected to be a standard color. It's almost identical to the finish used on all Gitzo tripods and similar to the hammertone used on some Leica cameras—hence the name.
Is this color meant to pair well with the stock keycaps?any chance for the retro fridge color option?
I'm trying to reduce the logistical burden (and long shipping wait times) of having people order so many wildly varying powder coating colors, so in future I think I'm going to pick one or two "standard" options that I can turn around in one big batch quickly and then anything else will be a custom color for people who really particularly need something quite specific. So, yes, it should be possible to get RR on this run, but it sadly will probably be more expensive.
I personally really like the Photograher's Gray finish I've selected to be a standard color. It's almost identical to the finish used on all Gitzo tripods and similar to the hammertone used on some Leica cameras—hence the name.
This case is super unique, i have made a high profile case before, but i dont really like the typing experience, so i end up on making custom wrist rest.. are you planing to make a wrist rest for this case as well?
This case is super unique, i have made a high profile case before, but i dont really like the typing experience, so i end up on making custom wrist rest.. are you planing to make a wrist rest for this case as well?
My current plan is to lower the profile of the housing a bit while still retaining the overall design feel.
However, I will say that I count myself among those who hovers their hands in the air while typing (I rest my elbows on my chair). It's an ergonomic strategy I trained into myself when I used to get wrist issues from excessive hours spent coding. For those of us who type without resting our wrists on the table, the height of the keyboard (especially small mm differences) shouldn't matter much. You can compensate with a tiny adjustment to your chair height—or, if you have an adjustable desk like I do, by moving the desk down a tiny bit and your monitor upward a tiny bit.
That all being said, I'm working on reducing the height closer to that of the OEM case. :D
This case is super unique, i have made a high profile case before, but i dont really like the typing experience, so i end up on making custom wrist rest.. are you planing to make a wrist rest for this case as well?
My current plan is to lower the profile of the housing a bit while still retaining the overall design feel.
However, I will say that I count myself among those who hovers their hands in the air while typing (I rest my elbows on my chair). It's an ergonomic strategy I trained into myself when I used to get wrist issues from excessive hours spent coding. For those of us who type without resting our wrists on the table, the height of the keyboard (especially small mm differences) shouldn't matter much. You can compensate with a tiny adjustment to your chair height—or, if you have an adjustable desk like I do, by moving the desk down a tiny bit and your monitor upward a tiny bit.
That all being said, I'm working on reducing the height closer to that of the OEM case. :D
is there a template with the exact measurements of leopold fc660c? pcb, case, etc ...
Or have you measured it yourself?
Upon testing, I'm happy to report that the case is entirely compatible with the Hasu controller.
Upon testing, I'm happy to report that the case is entirely compatible with the Hasu controller.
Please talk to @hasu and make posible an aluminium case with hasu controller usb C leopold fc660c (and maybe with bluetooth).Bluetooth does not work through aluminium.
this would be awesome!!
Please talk to @hasu and make posible an aluminium case with hasu controller usb C leopold fc660c (and maybe with bluetooth).Bluetooth does not work through aluminium.
this would be awesome!!
Also, Bluetooth needs a battery, which requires a redesign of the case.
When Hasu designed his controller for the FC660C he actually avoided using USB C because it kept cost low. USB mini is a lot cheaper and the connector is strong.
Sent from my LG-H815 using Tapatalk
Hi I have never owned a norbacases before, I just wanted to ask if these cases would come with a different housing plate? (Not weight) and if it does come with a different housing plate, would it be made easier to align the domes?
Sent from my Nexus 6P using Tapatalk
Upon testing, I'm happy to report that the case is entirely compatible with the Hasu controller.
Upon testing, I'm happy to report that the case is entirely compatible with the Hasu controller.
Been hoping for this! This is a dream come true for me :) Love my Norbatouch, but the non-programmability is pretty annoying...
Hi I have never owned a norbacases before, I just wanted to ask if these cases would come with a different housing plate? (Not weight) and if it does come with a different housing plate, would it be made easier to align the domes?
Sent from my Nexus 6P using Tapatalk
They use the stock plate. Through guts of the 660c will be drop in, you won't have to touch the domes.
Oh, I meant on my norbatouch. I will for sure get a hasu for the 660c!Upon testing, I'm happy to report that the case is entirely compatible with the Hasu controller.
Been hoping for this! This is a dream come true for me :) Love my Norbatouch, but the non-programmability is pretty annoying...
Just use a Hasu controller (https://1upkeyboards.com/fc660c-controller.html)? I have confirmed it fits.Hi I have never owned a norbacases before, I just wanted to ask if these cases would come with a different housing plate? (Not weight) and if it does come with a different housing plate, would it be made easier to align the domes?
Sent from my Nexus 6P using Tapatalk
They use the stock plate. Through guts of the 660c will be drop in, you won't have to touch the domes.
Affirmative.
Oh, I meant on my norbatouch. I will for sure get a hasu for the 660c!Upon testing, I'm happy to report that the case is entirely compatible with the Hasu controller.
Been hoping for this! This is a dream come true for me :) Love my Norbatouch, but the non-programmability is pretty annoying...
Just use a Hasu controller (https://1upkeyboards.com/fc660c-controller.html)? I have confirmed it fits.Hi I have never owned a norbacases before, I just wanted to ask if these cases would come with a different housing plate? (Not weight) and if it does come with a different housing plate, would it be made easier to align the domes?
Sent from my Nexus 6P using Tapatalk
They use the stock plate. Through guts of the 660c will be drop in, you won't have to touch the domes.
Affirmative.
Oh, I meant on my norbatouch. I will for sure get a hasu for the 660c!Upon testing, I'm happy to report that the case is entirely compatible with the Hasu controller.
Been hoping for this! This is a dream come true for me :) Love my Norbatouch, but the non-programmability is pretty annoying...
Just use a Hasu controller (https://1upkeyboards.com/fc660c-controller.html)? I have confirmed it fits.Hi I have never owned a norbacases before, I just wanted to ask if these cases would come with a different housing plate? (Not weight) and if it does come with a different housing plate, would it be made easier to align the domes?
Sent from my Nexus 6P using Tapatalk
They use the stock plate. Through guts of the 660c will be drop in, you won't have to touch the domes.
Affirmative.
Ah, ok. Sorry. There is also the USB-to-USB (https://deskthority.net/workshop-f7/hasu-usb-usb-converter-t13976.html) converter for the others. Haven't used it myself, but it has been mentioned as a solution.
Oh, I meant on my norbatouch. I will for sure get a hasu for the 660c!Upon testing, I'm happy to report that the case is entirely compatible with the Hasu controller.
Been hoping for this! This is a dream come true for me :) Love my Norbatouch, but the non-programmability is pretty annoying...
Just use a Hasu controller (https://1upkeyboards.com/fc660c-controller.html)? I have confirmed it fits.Hi I have never owned a norbacases before, I just wanted to ask if these cases would come with a different housing plate? (Not weight) and if it does come with a different housing plate, would it be made easier to align the domes?
Sent from my Nexus 6P using Tapatalk
They use the stock plate. Through guts of the 660c will be drop in, you won't have to touch the domes.
Affirmative.
Ah, ok. Sorry. There is also the USB-to-USB (https://deskthority.net/workshop-f7/hasu-usb-usb-converter-t13976.html) converter for the others. Haven't used it myself, but it has been mentioned as a solution.
wow! I am IN again Norbauer. I would KILL someone for the chance to have it in STONEWASHED finish... PLEASE!!! (like in EDC components)
wow! I am IN again Norbauer. I would KILL someone for the chance to have it in STONEWASHED finish... PLEASE!!! (like in EDC components)
Ooh. Now that is a cool idea. Can you post some of your favorite examples? Were you talking about acid-etched and stonewashed, or just stonewashed?
I've actually been longingly investigating offering an option for having the WHOLE case in stainless steel, which lends itself to stone-washing or PVD, but the price gets up to around $500 and I'm not sure we could find enough people interested to hit an MOQ for steel at that price.
wow! I am IN again Norbauer. I would KILL someone for the chance to have it in STONEWASHED finish... PLEASE!!! (like in EDC components)
Ooh. Now that is a cool idea. Can you post some of your favorite examples? Were you talking about acid-etched and stonewashed, or just stonewashed?
I've actually been longingly investigating offering an option for having the WHOLE case in stainless steel, which lends itself to stone-washing or PVD, but the price gets up to around $500 and I'm not sure we could find enough people interested to hit an MOQ for steel at that price.
Stonewash is a great idea. This is an example of one that I use everyday (I guess titanium is out of the question )
https://www.handgrey.com/products/handgrey-h3
wow! I am IN again Norbauer. I would KILL someone for the chance to have it in STONEWASHED finish... PLEASE!!! (like in EDC components)
Ooh. Now that is a cool idea. Can you post some of your favorite examples? Were you talking about acid-etched and stonewashed, or just stonewashed?
I've actually been longingly investigating offering an option for having the WHOLE case in stainless steel, which lends itself to stone-washing or PVD, but the price gets up to around $500 and I'm not sure we could find enough people interested to hit an MOQ for steel at that price.
Stonewash is a great idea. This is an example of one that I use everyday (I guess titanium is out of the question )
https://www.handgrey.com/products/handgrey-h3
Alas. If your keychain there cost $85, you can imagine what a whole keyboard housing would cost. :rolleyes: This is especially true since the cost of machined parts tends to scale non-linearly with increases in the work envelope size.
wow! I am IN again Norbauer. I would KILL someone for the chance to have it in STONEWASHED finish... PLEASE!!! (like in EDC components)
Ooh. Now that is a cool idea. Can you post some of your favorite examples? Were you talking about acid-etched and stonewashed, or just stonewashed?
I've actually been longingly investigating offering an option for having the WHOLE case in stainless steel, which lends itself to stone-washing or PVD, but the price gets up to around $500 and I'm not sure we could find enough people interested to hit an MOQ for steel at that price.
Stonewash is a great idea. This is an example of one that I use everyday (I guess titanium is out of the question )
https://www.handgrey.com/products/handgrey-h3
Alas. If your keychain there cost $85, you can imagine what a whole keyboard housing would cost. :rolleyes: This is especially true since the cost of machined parts tends to scale non-linearly with increases in the work envelope size.
The keychain is titanium though, so that probably accounts for a lot of the cost.
Yes, sorry; my reply was in reference to the prospect of titanium. :)
Yes, sorry; my reply was in reference to the prospect of titanium. :)
Ah, right. Visually, I don't think I could tell the difference between stonewashed titanium vs. stonewashed steel, and from what I understand, a lot of products made in titanium do so for weight savings. Given that people like heavy keyboards - and often opt for additional weights - wouldn't steel make more sense anyway (not that having a titanium keyboard case wouldn't be awesome)?
Yes, sorry; my reply was in reference to the prospect of titanium. :)
Ah, right. Visually, I don't think I could tell the difference between stonewashed titanium vs. stonewashed steel, and from what I understand, a lot of products made in titanium do so for weight savings. Given that people like heavy keyboards - and often opt for additional weights - wouldn't steel make more sense anyway (not that having a titanium keyboard case wouldn't be awesome)?
Yeah, totally. Steel makes more sense (as long as it’s stainless.) The cost issue with both is mainly the much longer machining times, but titanium is worse by far than steel, I think.
Yes, sorry; my reply was in reference to the prospect of titanium. :)
Ah, right. Visually, I don't think I could tell the difference between stonewashed titanium vs. stonewashed steel, and from what I understand, a lot of products made in titanium do so for weight savings. Given that people like heavy keyboards - and often opt for additional weights - wouldn't steel make more sense anyway (not that having a titanium keyboard case wouldn't be awesome)?
Yeah, totally. Steel makes more sense (as long as it’s stainless.) The cost issue with both is mainly the much longer machining times, but titanium is worse by far than steel, I think.
Would love a PVD brass instead of a brushed brass plate. Will we have the option to choose between them?
dunno if it would be too costly, but having the brass finished with nickel-plated black pvd always looks sublime
regular pvd looks kind of shiny and gaudy IMO, maybe if it is possible to beadblast it first or something it might improve the look
Would love a PVD brass instead of a brushed brass plate. Will we have the option to choose between them?dunno if it would be too costly, but having the brass finished with nickel-plated black pvd always looks sublime
regular pvd looks kind of shiny and gaudy IMO, maybe if it is possible to beadblast it first or something it might improve the look
I've spoken to several PVD vendors in the past few weeks, and they all recommend against brass. It requires much more prep work to get a good finish and very little in the way of a superior outcome compared to steel. Indeed, to p_blaze's comment, you have to plate brass before you PVD coat it, which (in addition to throwing off tolerances more) leads to a more smooth and shiny finish, but steel can be PVD-coated directly, so you can give it a nice matte finish that still has the durability of PVD.
wow! I am IN again Norbauer. I would KILL someone for the chance to have it in STONEWASHED finish... PLEASE!!! (like in EDC components)
Ooh. Now that is a cool idea. Can you post some of your favorite examples? Were you talking about acid-etched and stonewashed, or just stonewashed?
I've actually been longingly investigating offering an option for having the WHOLE case in stainless steel, which lends itself to stone-washing or PVD, but the price gets up to around $500 and I'm not sure we could find enough people interested to hit an MOQ for steel at that price.
wow! I am IN again Norbauer. I would KILL someone for the chance to have it in STONEWASHED finish... PLEASE!!! (like in EDC components)
Ooh. Now that is a cool idea. Can you post some of your favorite examples? Were you talking about acid-etched and stonewashed, or just stonewashed?
I've actually been longingly investigating offering an option for having the WHOLE case in stainless steel, which lends itself to stone-washing or PVD, but the price gets up to around $500 and I'm not sure we could find enough people interested to hit an MOQ for steel at that price.
Just wanted to chime in here - I would definitely be interested in a steel case option, especially if it means interesting finishes/textures. The price might be a bit high, but I'd say the clientele your work attracts would be a near-ideal audience for such things (premium price for premium products). There aren't really any other good premium case options for the FC660C, so I'm more than happy putting the money down to see it done right. :)
wow! I am IN again Norbauer. I would KILL someone for the chance to have it in STONEWASHED finish... PLEASE!!! (like in EDC components)
Ooh. Now that is a cool idea. Can you post some of your favorite examples? Were you talking about acid-etched and stonewashed, or just stonewashed?
I've actually been longingly investigating offering an option for having the WHOLE case in stainless steel, which lends itself to stone-washing or PVD, but the price gets up to around $500 and I'm not sure we could find enough people interested to hit an MOQ for steel at that price.
Just wanted to chime in here - I would definitely be interested in a steel case option, especially if it means interesting finishes/textures. The price might be a bit high, but I'd say the clientele your work attracts would be a near-ideal audience for such things (premium price for premium products). There aren't really any other good premium case options for the FC660C, so I'm more than happy putting the money down to see it done right. :)
Please! Imagine a FC660C Norbauer case in this finish:Show Image(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180409/1b3540f10d17c41a4810d11ec35093f0.jpg)
Go go go!
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro
@norb/ryan would you be able to post a sample typing sound test of the prototype you have?
also wondering if it would be possible to have a custom plate for the fc660c/realforce with 3d printed slider housings. so we get the option of having a brass plate.
i tried removing one housing from my realforce and fc and i think the risk of damaging them during the process is high.
wow! I am IN again Norbauer. I would KILL someone for the chance to have it in STONEWASHED finish... PLEASE!!! (like in EDC components)
Ooh. Now that is a cool idea. Can you post some of your favorite examples? Were you talking about acid-etched and stonewashed, or just stonewashed?
I've actually been longingly investigating offering an option for having the WHOLE case in stainless steel, which lends itself to stone-washing or PVD, but the price gets up to around $500 and I'm not sure we could find enough people interested to hit an MOQ for steel at that price.
Just wanted to chime in here - I would definitely be interested in a steel case option, especially if it means interesting finishes/textures. The price might be a bit high, but I'd say the clientele your work attracts would be a near-ideal audience for such things (premium price for premium products). There aren't really any other good premium case options for the FC660C, so I'm more than happy putting the money down to see it done right. :)
Please! Imagine a FC660C Norbauer case in this finish:Show Image(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180409/1b3540f10d17c41a4810d11ec35093f0.jpg)
Go go go!
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro
oh man. that's so hot.
is that just stonewashed raw stainless?
@norb/ryan would you be able to post a sample typing sound test of the prototype you have?
also wondering if it would be possible to have a custom plate for the fc660c/realforce with 3d printed slider housings. so we get the option of having a brass plate.
i tried removing one housing from my realforce and fc and i think the risk of damaging them during the process is high.
I think adding a brass plate and so would complicate Norbauer's life and ours also... considering that the FC660C is already a nice product itself...
Norbauer, the good thing here is that this finish I showed you is ALUMINUM STONEWASHED AND TUMBLED (not StainlessSteel which has more cost), so cost won't be so heavy... what do you think? can we make it real!??? :D count on me for this finish.
I was so inspired by your graphics for this project that I just had to make a banner. Hope you don't mind! Just tell me, and I'll remove it.
@norb/ryan would you be able to post a sample typing sound test of the prototype you have?
Norbauer, the good thing here is that this finish I showed you is ALUMINUM STONEWASHED AND TUMBLED (not StainlessSteel which has more cost), so cost won't be so heavy... what do you think? can we make it real!??? :D count on me for this finish.
Wow. That's interesting. My concern would be that raw aluminum is a very soft material without anodizing and thus highly susceptible to scratching and abrasion. Maybe with the stonewashed finish it would hide the normal sort of scratches that would accumulate on a non-anodized finish, but I would worry that even the stonewashed finish would rub away over time in spots that get touched. I have learned through these projects that some people have a tendency to rub their keyboard repeatedly in certain spots while typing, so good housings need to be somewhat robust to that kind of use.
This man loves stonewashed finishes :))Norbauer, the good thing here is that this finish I showed you is ALUMINUM STONEWASHED AND TUMBLED (not StainlessSteel which has more cost), so cost won't be so heavy... what do you think? can we make it real!??? :D count on me for this finish.
Wow. That's interesting. My concern would be that raw aluminum is a very soft material without anodizing and thus highly susceptible to scratching and abrasion. Maybe with the stonewashed finish it would hide the normal sort of scratches that would accumulate on a non-anodized finish, but I would worry that even the stonewashed finish would rub away over time in spots that get touched. I have learned through these projects that some people have a tendency to rub their keyboard repeatedly in certain spots while typing, so good housings need to be somewhat robust to that kind of use.
I can promise you that this finish is SUPER STRONG. I have many samples with me as I love stonewashed finish, mainly Titanium and SS, but this Aluminum in tumbler is great. I have THREE buckets of those (different styles) and I can say those are sturdy as hell. This finish HAS NEVER BEEN DONE TO MY KNOWLEDGE in a keyboard... so PLEASE!!!
Honestly I think the case is fancy enough and going to take a long time to get to me anyway, so I'm cool with Norbauer's original plan and getting at asap lol. Maybe I'll consider a custom powdercoat but even the choices offered seem fine
I'm a Topre n00b, I know there are sliders that let you convert the switches to work with MX keycaps, but my basic research seems to indicate that the space bar on a FC660c is problematic to convert to MX because of the stabilizers.check this thread: https://geekhack.org/index.php?topic=93802.0
Is there a solution for this? My interest in this case is dependent on finding a way to be able to put MX keycaps on the FC660C that would go in it.
Topre sliders also change feel of board, so if you haven't tried it before I'd try before going through hassle of making spacebar work. Also a ton PBT / resin Topre spacebars that you can kinda mix with MX capsDo the rgb sliders work?
Do the rgb sliders work?
I'm a Topre n00b, I know there are sliders that let you convert the switches to work with MX keycaps, but my basic research seems to indicate that the space bar on a FC660c is problematic to convert to MX because of the stabilizers.check this thread: https://geekhack.org/index.php?topic=93802.0
Is there a solution for this? My interest in this case is dependent on finding a way to be able to put MX keycaps on the FC660C that would go in it.
tl;dr it's expensive and a lot of work
I'm a Topre n00b, I know there are sliders that let you convert the switches to work with MX keycaps, but my basic research seems to indicate that the space bar on a FC660c is problematic to convert to MX because of the stabilizers.check this thread: https://geekhack.org/index.php?topic=93802.0
Is there a solution for this? My interest in this case is dependent on finding a way to be able to put MX keycaps on the FC660C that would go in it.
tl;dr it's expensive and a lot of work
As someone else noted, adding MX sliders to a topre board significantly reduces the feel of the board. Most people prefer an MX switch over topre-to-MX sliders.
Have you tried a topre board? The stock keycaps on a Leopold, for example, are superbly textured PBT that feel fantastic. I'm not sure why you would want to change that. They look great, too. Very clean.
I'm a Topre n00b, I know there are sliders that let you convert the switches to work with MX keycaps, but my basic research seems to indicate that the space bar on a FC660c is problematic to convert to MX because of the stabilizers.
Is there a solution for this? My interest in this case is dependent on finding a way to be able to put MX keycaps on the FC660C that would go in it.
You really need to get Novatouch sliders and x4 modifier housings w/ stabilizers. This is not an easy task to accomplish on the cheap. Frankly, not many people are gutting their Novatouches to sell just the sliders but if you find one good. Otherwise, buy Novatouch, harvest sliders, sell guts. It’ll be expensive but oh well. The spacebar is less simple but there’s info out there on it.
Source: https://imgur.com/a/e6dlg
But he does'nt solve the problem of the spacebarYou really need to get Novatouch sliders and x4 modifier housings w/ stabilizers. This is not an easy task to accomplish on the cheap. Frankly, not many people are gutting their Novatouches to sell just the sliders but if you find one good. Otherwise, buy Novatouch, harvest sliders, sell guts. It’ll be expensive but oh well. The spacebar is less simple but there’s info out there on it.
Source: https://imgur.com/a/e6dlg
Or just go on KBDfans and buy sliders for $30.
But he does'nt solve the problem of the spacebar
But he does'nt solve the problem of the spacebar
I'm aware, I just meant that for the rest of the board the KBDfans sliders are almost as good/consistent as the Novatouch ones and are probably 10 to 15 times cheaper.
But he does'nt solve the problem of the spacebar
I'm aware, I just meant that for the rest of the board the KBDfans sliders are almost as good/consistent as the Novatouch ones and are probably 10 to 15 times cheaper.
Kind of lost track of that as an option after initial reviews of the aliexpress ones. Do they come with the modifiers? Cuz personally I was goning to look at JTK or whatever but the big constraint is the modifier housings. As tough as it is to get someone to sell you just Nt sliders, just NT modifiers may be more difficult.
Would the NT housings also work in the case of the spacebar or is something different required?
Would the NT housings also work in the case of the spacebar or is something different required?
As far as can you swap spacebar stuff with a Novatouch, yes you can. May be you need to use FC660C stabilizer wire with the MX compatible stabilizer tabs. In some cases, it is about whether or not the keyset you want to use has a compatible 6u center stemmed spacebar. Mine didn't and I had a Topre spacebar that matched well so I left it.
Would the NT housings also work in the case of the spacebar or is something different required?
As far as can you swap spacebar stuff with a Novatouch, yes you can. May be you need to use FC660C stabilizer wire with the MX compatible stabilizer tabs. In some cases, it is about whether or not the keyset you want to use has a compatible 6u center stemmed spacebar. Mine didn't and I had a Topre spacebar that matched well so I left it.
Thanks.
Does GMK even make a 6u center stem spacebar?
Would the NT housings also work in the case of the spacebar or is something different required?
As far as can you swap spacebar stuff with a Novatouch, yes you can. May be you need to use FC660C stabilizer wire with the MX compatible stabilizer tabs. In some cases, it is about whether or not the keyset you want to use has a compatible 6u center stemmed spacebar. Mine didn't and I had a Topre spacebar that matched well so I left it.
Thanks.
Does GMK even make a 6u center stem spacebar?
Yes, along with off-set too.
All my 6u GMK spacebars have the off-center stem :(
A search of PMK's inventory also turned up empty.
Any pointers where else I could look?
Any intentions of doing an FC660m version in the future? Love the design (and the 660 layout) but not a massive Topre fan.
I'm going to presume it's a tentative yes and get excited either way.
ooooo I can't wait for this to drop! Hopefully you can find a way to pay homage to the original by having the capacitance formula
ooooo I can't wait for this to drop! Hopefully you can find a way to pay homage to the original by having the capacitance formula
Going to have to agree with this guy about the capacitance formula :)
Having trouble deciding between black, photographer gray, or going with a custom space station white or something:Show Image(https://i.imgur.com/7kX7Z84.jpg)
Having trouble deciding between black, photographer gray, or going with a custom space station white or something:Show Image(https://i.imgur.com/7kX7Z84.jpg)
Where did you get those mods for the FC660C? I've looked everywhere and I can't find anyone that makes Topre mods of the right size for the Windows/Fn/Alt keys!
Hey all. I'm working on the risers design right now. The native angle of the fc660c without its flip-out feet deployed is 3 degrees. I have in my notes that the incline of the fc660c with its flip-out feet deployed is 10 degrees—and, to be precise, I'm talking about the angle between the tabletop and the top (typing) face of the keyboard.Personally I think an incline of 6-7 would be close enough to be comfortable.
However, we don't necessarily have to mimic the fc660c exactly for the risers angle. Is there a good safe consensus angle to choose that is likely to please most people who want the extra incline of risers?
This following images show a total 8 degrees with risers installed, and even this looks pretty severe to me.Show Image(https://cdn.norbauer.com/webshares/fc660c/8degrees1.png)Show Image(https://cdn.norbauer.com/webshares/fc660c/8degrees2.png)
Thoughts welcome. :)
Hey all. I'm working on the risers design right now. The native angle of the fc660c without its flip-out feet deployed is 3 degrees. I have in my notes that the incline of the fc660c with its flip-out feet deployed is 10 degrees—and, to be precise, I'm talking about the angle between the tabletop and the top (typing) face of the keyboard.Personally I think an incline of 6-7 would be close enough to be comfortable.
However, we don't necessarily have to mimic the fc660c exactly for the risers angle. Is there a good safe consensus angle to choose that is likely to please most people who want the extra incline of risers?
This following images show a total 8 degrees with risers installed, and even this looks pretty severe to me.Show Image(https://cdn.norbauer.com/webshares/fc660c/8degrees1.png)Show Image(https://cdn.norbauer.com/webshares/fc660c/8degrees2.png)
Thoughts welcome. :)
The Heavy-6 has a native slope angle that matches that of the FC660C (without its flip-out feet deployed).
The native angle of the fc660c without its flip-out feet deployed is 3 degrees.
The Heavy-6 has a native slope angle that matches that of the FC660C (without its flip-out feet deployed).The native angle of the fc660c without its flip-out feet deployed is 3 degrees.
Just to make certain: can we expect a three degree angle on the Heavy-6 without risers?
So, is the next step a premium housing for the HHKB? (please say yes)That would be a very hard and expensive one to make because the plate and top case are one piece on the HHKB.
So, is the next step a premium housing for the HHKB? (please say yes)That would be a very hard and expensive one to make because the plate and top case are one piece on the HHKB.
Sent from my LG-H815 using Tapatalk
the flatter the better ;DThat's what I was getting at, actually :) I probably should have been more direct
So, is the next step a premium housing for the HHKB? (please say yes)That would be a very hard and expensive one to make because the plate and top case are one piece on the HHKB.
Sent from my LG-H815 using Tapatalk
So, is the next step a premium housing for the HHKB? (please say yes)That would be a very hard and expensive one to make because the plate and top case are one piece on the HHKB.
Sent from my LG-H815 using Tapatalk
Hmm how much of a difference would replacing the bottom part of the hhkb case with metal accomplish?
Just had a thought - can we see INSIDE the prototype? I wonder how much space is in there.
I agree with what you guys said. 6 degrees looks much more sane to me.Show Image(https://cdn.norbauer.com/webshares/fc660c/6degrees.png)
Just to make certain: can we expect a three degree angle on the Heavy-6 without risers?
Motorsport yellow + GMK Serika gonna be lit. :cool: :cool: :cool:
It's hard but not impossible. However next project are RF numpad and tkl bag. (2019 hhkb? :cool:)
Just had a thought - can we see INSIDE the prototype? I wonder how much space is in there.
...for a steel PVD case if the cost were around $500-600...
...for a steel PVD case if the cost were around $500-600...
For comparison sake, what would be an approximate price range for the aluminum anodized / powder coated?
I suppose if the difference may be significant.
Hi all. So I'm still looking at stainless and PVD coating. It's really, really expensive, but I'm still kind of digging it. I'm told it's fantastically durable and all the photos I've seen make it look awesome. Because the entire assembly would also be stainless steel, the case would be enormously heavy. Before I invest the huge amount of money required to get a prototype in Stainless Steel with PVD, I wanted to ask if literally anyone would be up for a steel PVD case if the cost were around $500-600, as I think it almost inevitably would be.
Hi all. So I'm still looking at stainless and PVD coating. It's really, really expensive, but I'm still kind of digging it. I'm told it's fantastically durable and all the photos I've seen make it look awesome. Because the entire assembly would also be stainless steel, the case would be enormously heavy. Before I invest the huge amount of money required to get a prototype in Stainless Steel with PVD, I wanted to ask if literally anyone would be up for a steel PVD case if the cost were around $500-600, as I think it almost inevitably would be.
Does stainless steel w/ PVD work with all of the same color options? I'm likely in for it. I REALLY love superheavy boards.
I really love my fc660c and my baby deserves nothing but the best, but that's going to be quite a bit out of my price range unfortunately. Sounds amazing though ( ._.)
if literally anyone would be up for a steel PVD case if the cost were around $500-600, as I think it almost inevitably would be.
I *think* I'd be in for a steel version in that price range, though would certainly appreciate it if it came in below budget. :) Sounds glorious. It'd be silver in color with the coating, right?
Hi all. So I'm still looking at stainless and PVD coating. It's really, really expensive, but I'm still kind of digging it. I'm told it's fantastically durable and all the photos I've seen make it look awesome. Because the entire assembly would also be stainless steel, the case would be enormously heavy. Before I invest the huge amount of money required to get a prototype in Stainless Steel with PVD, I wanted to ask if literally anyone would be up for a steel PVD case if the cost were around $500-600, as I think it almost inevitably would be.
Does stainless steel w/ PVD work with all of the same color options? I'm likely in for it. I REALLY love superheavy boards.
The color option for PVD would simply be black. I believe they're using DLC (Diamond-like carbon), which is very durable but only comes in that color for technical reasons.
No, he already mentioned it would be black:
Hi all. So I'm still looking at stainless and PVD coating. It's really, really expensive, but I'm still kind of digging it. I'm told it's fantastically durable and all the photos I've seen make it look awesome. Because the entire assembly would also be stainless steel, the case would be enormously heavy. Before I invest the huge amount of money required to get a prototype in Stainless Steel with PVD, I wanted to ask if literally anyone would be up for a steel PVD case if the cost were around $500-600, as I think it almost inevitably would be.
3. Motorsport yellow! I have a set of matt3o's MT3 /dev/tty caps on order and I'm pretty sure motorsport will be a fantastic color match between the grey and red, (ens especially with the yellow keys that come with the novelties pack). It would also match the triumph sets remarkably well.
I now have samples of the logo badges, btw. I think they're pretty subtle but look very cool. I look forward to being able to post photos with a finished prototype when the next round of parts arrives in a few weeks.
I now have samples of the logo badges, btw. I think they're pretty subtle but look very cool. I look forward to being able to post photos with a finished prototype when the next round of parts arrives in a few weeks.
I'm excited to see the progress! :cool:
Same, I'm so excited this project is happening.
Cool. Yes, I think I'll probably do a prototype in steel with PVD just to see how it turns out, and we can take it from there. I'm getting the latest version done up in aluminum first to check the design since a steel prototype is fantastically expensive and I definitely don't want to have to make that one twice. :)
I feel like I'm a little late to this party, but I'll have you know that I registered a geekhack account specifically because of this! Thanks to /u/motorpsychoo on reddit for plugging the Heavy-6 and starting me down this rabbit hole.
I'm new to the Topre/FC660C club, but I've been trying to really make this board special and different with a few mods and this case seems like the perfect addition to really make a stand-out piece both to display and use.
Based on the thread above, here's my two cents:
1. Having the option of risers seems important. 6 degrees is a good incline. I find that 10 degree incline of the FC660C with its feet deployed is a bit too large and trips me up sometimes, yet 3 degrees withe the feet folded in is far too flat.
2. $500-600USD is way too rich for my blood (also I'm Canadian so add 30% to that to get CDN...) so no chance I'm in for the stainless body. That being said, it sounds pretty gorgeous and just absurdly beefy so I think the aesthetic of it is a great match. I'd love to see this done, even if I can't afford to actually have it sitting on my desk.
3. Motorsport yellow! I have a set of matt3o's MT3 /dev/tty caps on order and I'm pretty sure motorsport will be a fantastic color match between the grey and red, (ens especially with the yellow keys that come with the novelties pack). It would also match the triumph sets remarkably well.
4. Case height/weight isn't a big issue for me but it seems like lots of people want portability thought about. That being said, the aesthetic you're going for is clearly industrial and heavy so go with your gut and make the case that fits your aesthetic best. You clearly have good taste, norbauer.
5. Personally I think a maker's mark is great. If it's possible to make it optional for people without it making the whole run cost-prohibitive that would be ideal, but you also have the right to make that statement. People who think this makes your products seem corporate forget that graphic/signature "branding" is just a modern corporate behaviour lifted from the world of artisinal crafting that largely came before it. Go with what feels right to you.
6. Hasu compatibility is awesome. I don't have one yet but its on my list of mods I definitely want.
Even at the lower price range of $200-300USD, this is a lot for me (especially since I've probably already paid $500 into this board so far...), but I'm really psyched for this case and I'll be strongly considering joining the GB when it opens.
Keep up the fantastic work, norbauer!
I feel like I'm a little late to this party, but I'll have you know that I registered a geekhack account specifically because of this! Thanks to /u/motorpsychoo on reddit for plugging the Heavy-6 and starting me down this rabbit hole.
I'm new to the Topre/FC660C club, but I've been trying to really make this board special and different with a few mods and this case seems like the perfect addition to really make a stand-out piece both to display and use.
Based on the thread above, here's my two cents:
1. Having the option of risers seems important. 6 degrees is a good incline. I find that 10 degree incline of the FC660C with its feet deployed is a bit too large and trips me up sometimes, yet 3 degrees withe the feet folded in is far too flat.
2. $500-600USD is way too rich for my blood (also I'm Canadian so add 30% to that to get CDN...) so no chance I'm in for the stainless body. That being said, it sounds pretty gorgeous and just absurdly beefy so I think the aesthetic of it is a great match. I'd love to see this done, even if I can't afford to actually have it sitting on my desk.
3. Motorsport yellow! I have a set of matt3o's MT3 /dev/tty caps on order and I'm pretty sure motorsport will be a fantastic color match between the grey and red, (ens especially with the yellow keys that come with the novelties pack). It would also match the triumph sets remarkably well.
4. Case height/weight isn't a big issue for me but it seems like lots of people want portability thought about. That being said, the aesthetic you're going for is clearly industrial and heavy so go with your gut and make the case that fits your aesthetic best. You clearly have good taste, norbauer.
5. Personally I think a maker's mark is great. If it's possible to make it optional for people without it making the whole run cost-prohibitive that would be ideal, but you also have the right to make that statement. People who think this makes your products seem corporate forget that graphic/signature "branding" is just a modern corporate behaviour lifted from the world of artisinal crafting that largely came before it. Go with what feels right to you.
6. Hasu compatibility is awesome. I don't have one yet but its on my list of mods I definitely want.
Even at the lower price range of $200-300USD, this is a lot for me (especially since I've probably already paid $500 into this board so far...), but I'm really psyched for this case and I'll be strongly considering joining the GB when it opens.
Keep up the fantastic work, norbauer!
Ha! /u/motorpsychoo here. I’m glad we are all coming down this rabbit hole together :)
I feel like I'm a little late to this party, but I'll have you know that I registered a geekhack account specifically because of this! Thanks to /u/motorpsychoo on reddit for plugging the Heavy-6 and starting me down this rabbit hole.
I'm new to the Topre/FC660C club, but I've been trying to really make this board special and different with a few mods and this case seems like the perfect addition to really make a stand-out piece both to display and use.
Based on the thread above, here's my two cents:
1. Having the option of risers seems important. 6 degrees is a good incline. I find that 10 degree incline of the FC660C with its feet deployed is a bit too large and trips me up sometimes, yet 3 degrees withe the feet folded in is far too flat.
2. $500-600USD is way too rich for my blood (also I'm Canadian so add 30% to that to get CDN...) so no chance I'm in for the stainless body. That being said, it sounds pretty gorgeous and just absurdly beefy so I think the aesthetic of it is a great match. I'd love to see this done, even if I can't afford to actually have it sitting on my desk.
3. Motorsport yellow! I have a set of matt3o's MT3 /dev/tty caps on order and I'm pretty sure motorsport will be a fantastic color match between the grey and red, (ens especially with the yellow keys that come with the novelties pack). It would also match the triumph sets remarkably well.
4. Case height/weight isn't a big issue for me but it seems like lots of people want portability thought about. That being said, the aesthetic you're going for is clearly industrial and heavy so go with your gut and make the case that fits your aesthetic best. You clearly have good taste, norbauer.
5. Personally I think a maker's mark is great. If it's possible to make it optional for people without it making the whole run cost-prohibitive that would be ideal, but you also have the right to make that statement. People who think this makes your products seem corporate forget that graphic/signature "branding" is just a modern corporate behaviour lifted from the world of artisinal crafting that largely came before it. Go with what feels right to you.
6. Hasu compatibility is awesome. I don't have one yet but its on my list of mods I definitely want.
Even at the lower price range of $200-300USD, this is a lot for me (especially since I've probably already paid $500 into this board so far...), but I'm really psyched for this case and I'll be strongly considering joining the GB when it opens.
Keep up the fantastic work, norbauer!
I never had a Leopold keyboard before, but I'll buy one just so I can have an excuse to buy your case too.
I think copper/black would be a killer combo, just like the color scheme Klipsch uses for their audio equipment. Copper powder finish + blank black keycaps. Looks good already.Show Image(https://www.lite-magazin.de/wp-content/uploads/2016/06/160617.Klipsch4-1.jpg)
Where to find blank black keycaps though
Any word on when the GB might start?
Any word on when the GB might start?
I don't have a specific date target, but it's looking like I should be able to get this rolling around the end of June, proximal to KeyCon. I just got photos this morning of the two aluminum prototypes and they look great—should have them later this week or early next. Assuming I'm happy with how they turned out upon in-person inspection, I'll move to a steel/PVD prototype. Allowing for a 2-3 week turnaround on that prototype, that lands roughly around the end of June. Anyway, that's a current rough estimate. :)
Every day the thirst to see what Motorsport Yellow could be grows a little more.
Can’t wait to see them!!!!Every day the thirst to see what Motorsport Yellow could be grows a little more.
Aluminum protos arrived and look fantastic. Photos soon. Work begins this week on the yellow and steel samples. I’m feeling really great about where things are headed. :)
Every day the thirst to see what Motorsport Yellow could be grows a little more.
Every day the thirst to see what Motorsport Yellow could be grows a little more.
Aluminum protos arrived and look fantastic. Photos soon. Work begins this week on the yellow and steel samples. I’m feeling really great about where things are headed. :)
Can’t wait to see them!!!!Every day the thirst to see what Motorsport Yellow could be grows a little more.
Aluminum protos arrived and look fantastic. Photos soon. Work begins this week on the yellow and steel samples. I’m feeling really great about where things are headed. :)
I've been looking for an excuse to pick up a 660c for a while now, and this is definitely it. :thumb:
Just got my fc660c- did a mx slider swap (with silencing rings), and put bke redux domes in it. Now all I need is a norbauer case for it! ;)
Just got my fc660c- did a mx slider swap (with silencing rings), and put bke redux domes in it. Now all I need is a norbauer case for it! ;)
I got me a second, black FC660C and did a slider swap with Nova sliders, added Hyperspheres and a Hasu controller. Waiting for my /dev/tty keycaps to put on it. Add to that a photogrpahers grey Norbauer and it will be magnificent I think!
Wouldn’t mind a pic of that photographers grey.
I didn’t like the Redux domes as much as the Topre ones I must sya. Whic reduxes did you take.
I've been looking for an excuse to pick up a 660c for a while now, and this is definitely it. :thumb:
It's a great time to pick up a 660c. The new versions are manufactured in Japan, and although I'm not aware of any noticeable differences, that just sounds better than Made In China. There are also more keycap options now, and the PBT dyesub sets are phenomenal, best caps I've used. I just picked up an all-black 660c to replace my black and gray 660c.
Just got my fc660c- did a mx slider swap (with silencing rings), and put bke redux domes in it. Now all I need is a norbauer case for it! ;)
I got me a second, black FC660C and did a slider swap with Nova sliders, added Hyperspheres and a Hasu controller. Waiting for my /dev/tty keycaps to put on it. Add to that a photogrpahers grey Norbauer and it will be magnificent I think!
Wouldn’t mind a pic of that photographers grey.
I didn’t like the Redux domes as much as the Topre ones I must sya. Whic reduxes did you take.
I put bke heavy domes in- I had them in my norbatouch and loved them. I still need a hasu controller too!
Every day the thirst to see what Motorsport Yellow could be grows a little more.
This is how I perceive the Motorsport Yellow combined with Gray keycaps:Show Image(http://st.motortrend.ca/uploads/sites/42/2015/01/2015-Porsche-911-GT3-wheel.jpg)
unfortunately for me, I have the beige/gray caps
Hmm, good to know -> I may try and sell my current one, which is lubed, and pick up one of the made in china ones. Do you know how 45g Leopold domes compare to BKE redux lights in terms of sound? I understand that the tactility is way increased, but my 45g domes are loud as is already.
Just got my fc660c- did a mx slider swap (with silencing rings), and put bke redux domes in it. Now all I need is a norbauer case for it! ;)
I got me a second, black FC660C and did a slider swap with Nova sliders, added Hyperspheres and a Hasu controller. Waiting for my /dev/tty keycaps to put on it. Add to that a photogrpahers grey Norbauer and it will be magnificent I think!
Wouldn’t mind a pic of that photographers grey.
I didn’t like the Redux domes as much as the Topre ones I must sya. Whic reduxes did you take.
I put bke heavy domes in- I had them in my norbatouch and loved them. I still need a hasu controller too!
I'm just thinking to myself. I was a happy man before Heavy 6 was announced. I've lived a pretty good life, and had a pretty good keyboard, heaviliy modified Realforce 88UB.
But now... first, I gotta get FC660. Then a metal case. Then a 55g Realforce to transplant domes. Then a silent Realforce to transplant purple sliders. Then a colored keyset. Then a braided cable in a same colorway. Then a hasu controller. Then a soldering iron with a precise microtip to solder my USB-C connector on a hasu PCB.
So yeah... looks like I'm about to sell my house.
Man gotta do what man gotta do.
I'm just thinking to myself. I was a happy man before Heavy 6 was announced. I've lived a pretty good life, and had a pretty good keyboard, heaviliy modified Realforce 88UB.
But now... first, I gotta get FC660. Then a metal case. Then a 55g Realforce to transplant domes. Then a silent Realforce to transplant purple sliders. Then a colored keyset. Then a braided cable in a same colorway. Then a hasu controller. Then a soldering iron with a precise microtip to solder my USB-C connector on a hasu PCB.
So yeah... looks like I'm about to sell my house.
Man gotta do what man gotta do.
I might be wrong but I don't think transplanting a USB C connector on to a Hasu controller would be that simple or even work. I know it was asked about USB-C and it wasn't doable. Which I mean is ok for the most part.
@forstsivenQuoteHmm, good to know -> I may try and sell my current one, which is lubed, and pick up one of the made in china ones. Do you know how 45g Leopold domes compare to BKE redux lights in terms of sound? I understand that the tactility is way increased, but my 45g domes are loud as is already.
I've got BKE lights installed in my FC660C. If you're interested in the differences in sound between these and stock, boy do I have a present for you:
https://www.reddit.com/r/MechanicalKeyboards/comments/8g5uya/modded_leopold_fc660c_typing_tests/
I put this together to track a history of my FC660C mods and what they all sound like. I've also included notes on my impressions of the experience of each mod.
BKE lights are a little louder than stock Topre 45g domes. With silencing rings they're basically the same, because all you hear is the THOCK of the downstroke. If you add in some cabinet liner under your PCB you can make them extremely quiet. The thing I've found is it's a little difficult to find the sweet spot between annoying noise, tactility and pleasurable keyboard sound. Hyperspheres massively reduce annoying upstroke CLACK but also reduce tactility of the dome collapse at the top of the stroke. Cabinet liner reduces both tactility of bottoming out and eliminates the nice THOCK. I expect heavier BKEs can counteract the hyperspheres without making for a loud keystroke. I have some BKE Extremes on the way in the mail right now. Those should be quite an experience. I'll upload sound tests of those once I have the chance to try them out.
@forstsivenQuoteHmm, good to know -> I may try and sell my current one, which is lubed, and pick up one of the made in china ones. Do you know how 45g Leopold domes compare to BKE redux lights in terms of sound? I understand that the tactility is way increased, but my 45g domes are loud as is already.
I've got BKE lights installed in my FC660C. If you're interested in the differences in sound between these and stock, boy do I have a present for you:
https://www.reddit.com/r/MechanicalKeyboards/comments/8g5uya/modded_leopold_fc660c_typing_tests/
I put this together to track a history of my FC660C mods and what they all sound like. I've also included notes on my impressions of the experience of each mod.
BKE lights are a little louder than stock Topre 45g domes. With silencing rings they're basically the same, because all you hear is the THOCK of the downstroke. If you add in some cabinet liner under your PCB you can make them extremely quiet. The thing I've found is it's a little difficult to find the sweet spot between annoying noise, tactility and pleasurable keyboard sound. Hyperspheres massively reduce annoying upstroke CLACK but also reduce tactility of the dome collapse at the top of the stroke. Cabinet liner reduces both tactility of bottoming out and eliminates the nice THOCK. I expect heavier BKEs can counteract the hyperspheres without making for a loud keystroke. I have some BKE Extremes on the way in the mail right now. Those should be quite an experience. I'll upload sound tests of those once I have the chance to try them out.
Bruh you're the MVP. I have a Realforce 87U w/ BKE extremes which makes me question my sanity a bit because I bought it because reasons even though I have no actual use for it. Most of what I do is gaming at my computer and it's impossible to play fps with BKE extremes.
I was thinking about doing silenced sliders in the bke lights (which I picked up in the limited teal color) and lubing them. The weird thing about the stock domes is that they seem louder than when I first picked up the board.
@forstsivenQuoteHmm, good to know -> I may try and sell my current one, which is lubed, and pick up one of the made in china ones. Do you know how 45g Leopold domes compare to BKE redux lights in terms of sound? I understand that the tactility is way increased, but my 45g domes are loud as is already.
I've got BKE lights installed in my FC660C. If you're interested in the differences in sound between these and stock, boy do I have a present for you:
https://www.reddit.com/r/MechanicalKeyboards/comments/8g5uya/modded_leopold_fc660c_typing_tests/
I put this together to track a history of my FC660C mods and what they all sound like. I've also included notes on my impressions of the experience of each mod.
BKE lights are a little louder than stock Topre 45g domes. With silencing rings they're basically the same, because all you hear is the THOCK of the downstroke. If you add in some cabinet liner under your PCB you can make them extremely quiet. The thing I've found is it's a little difficult to find the sweet spot between annoying noise, tactility and pleasurable keyboard sound. Hyperspheres massively reduce annoying upstroke CLACK but also reduce tactility of the dome collapse at the top of the stroke. Cabinet liner reduces both tactility of bottoming out and eliminates the nice THOCK. I expect heavier BKEs can counteract the hyperspheres without making for a loud keystroke. I have some BKE Extremes on the way in the mail right now. Those should be quite an experience. I'll upload sound tests of those once I have the chance to try them out.
Bruh you're the MVP. I have a Realforce 87U w/ BKE extremes which makes me question my sanity a bit because I bought it because reasons even though I have no actual use for it. Most of what I do is gaming at my computer and it's impossible to play fps with BKE extremes.
I was thinking about doing silenced sliders in the bke lights (which I picked up in the limited teal color) and lubing them. The weird thing about the stock domes is that they seem louder than when I first picked up the board.
Happy to help!
So I just got my own extremes and I'm typing with them as we speak. They're not like I expected, to be honest. The sound they produce is kind of disappointing and while they're probably a little more tactile than heavies I find that they're mostly just really stiff and that makes them more mushy-feeling at the bottom of the keystroke. I'm using them with Hyperspheres and maybe they're a better experience unsilenced, but at the end of the day I think they're just heavier than I'd like. Until trying these I hadn't yet tried a key that was actually too heavy for me, but I've found my limit I guess. I'm actually kind of hoping that I can return them for heavies instead.
I'll post a sound test for them before doing anything but I've got my fingers crossed that Keyclack will accept an exchange.
@forstsivenQuoteHmm, good to know -> I may try and sell my current one, which is lubed, and pick up one of the made in china ones. Do you know how 45g Leopold domes compare to BKE redux lights in terms of sound? I understand that the tactility is way increased, but my 45g domes are loud as is already.
I've got BKE lights installed in my FC660C. If you're interested in the differences in sound between these and stock, boy do I have a present for you:
https://www.reddit.com/r/MechanicalKeyboards/comments/8g5uya/modded_leopold_fc660c_typing_tests/
I put this together to track a history of my FC660C mods and what they all sound like. I've also included notes on my impressions of the experience of each mod.
BKE lights are a little louder than stock Topre 45g domes. With silencing rings they're basically the same, because all you hear is the THOCK of the downstroke. If you add in some cabinet liner under your PCB you can make them extremely quiet. The thing I've found is it's a little difficult to find the sweet spot between annoying noise, tactility and pleasurable keyboard sound. Hyperspheres massively reduce annoying upstroke CLACK but also reduce tactility of the dome collapse at the top of the stroke. Cabinet liner reduces both tactility of bottoming out and eliminates the nice THOCK. I expect heavier BKEs can counteract the hyperspheres without making for a loud keystroke. I have some BKE Extremes on the way in the mail right now. Those should be quite an experience. I'll upload sound tests of those once I have the chance to try them out.
Bruh you're the MVP. I have a Realforce 87U w/ BKE extremes which makes me question my sanity a bit because I bought it because reasons even though I have no actual use for it. Most of what I do is gaming at my computer and it's impossible to play fps with BKE extremes.
I was thinking about doing silenced sliders in the bke lights (which I picked up in the limited teal color) and lubing them. The weird thing about the stock domes is that they seem louder than when I first picked up the board.
Happy to help!
So I just got my own extremes and I'm typing with them as we speak. They're not like I expected, to be honest. The sound they produce is kind of disappointing and while they're probably a little more tactile than heavies I find that they're mostly just really stiff and that makes them more mushy-feeling at the bottom of the keystroke. I'm using them with Hyperspheres and maybe they're a better experience unsilenced, but at the end of the day I think they're just heavier than I'd like. Until trying these I hadn't yet tried a key that was actually too heavy for me, but I've found my limit I guess. I'm actually kind of hoping that I can return them for heavies instead.
I'll post a sound test for them before doing anything but I've got my fingers crossed that Keyclack will accept an exchange.
I'll buy 'em off if you don't like 'em. = )
But first try lube and give them more of a break-in period. I'm using them with Hi-Pros and hyperspheres on my HHKB and honestly it's my endgame typing experience. Just wonderful. It took a few days of lots of typing before I felt like they were broken in somewhat though.
I'm on day 3 or 4 now and I have to admit that I've warmed up to them a bit. At first they really turned me off but after a slight adjustment in my typing style they started to feel a little better.
On day 2 I gave my sliders a fresh bead of lube and that seems like it took care of most of the scratchiness of my MX sliders. The fresh lube could also be responsible for some of the mushiness that I feel when I bottom out. I tried to be conservative with applying it but I know how easy it is to put on a little too much. so that's a possibility.
If you're offering to buy then I guess maybe I'll hold onto them for a little longer and see if I come to like them, but I think probably heavies are right for me. I have a sampler pack of them that I've put on a few keys in the past, but I don't have enough to cover the letters and numbers so I can confirm the "real" typing experience. Currently all my stabilized keys are on heavies and my spacebar is on a light. Escape felt really good as a heavy before. I think they're the right ones for me. It's a shame I've had to go all Goldilocks on these domes before getting the ones that suit me best :p
Any further ideas on possible powdercoat finishes? Will retro refrigerator be an option? There was a copper-bronze finish for the Coolermaster cases that I think would look fantastic with grey keycaps.
Don't forget Photographer's GrayAny further ideas on possible powdercoat finishes? Will retro refrigerator be an option? There was a copper-bronze finish for the Coolermaster cases that I think would look fantastic with grey keycaps.
I think he only offering the one color this time. That is the bright yellow color.
Any further ideas on possible powdercoat finishes? Will retro refrigerator be an option? There was a copper-bronze finish for the Coolermaster cases that I think would look fantastic with grey keycaps.
I think he only offering the one color this time. That is the bright yellow color.
Just read the first page. All kinds of custom colors are available.might be mistaken but pretty sure your going to have a ruff time rubbing off powder coating. I mean they use it on industrial applications all the time and they do rims. Heck they even powder coat car chassis. I just don't see you rubbing a powder coat off given perhaps the ones I am mentioning are not the standard powder coat finishes.
I'm even thinking Miami Blue or Mexico Blue would look good on my desk. I'm worried about wearing off color through use though, at least in case of powder coating. Anodization is a different thing.
Just read the first page. All kinds of custom colors are available.
I'm even thinking Miami Blue or Mexico Blue would look good on my desk. I'm worried about wearing off color through use though, at least in case of powder coating. Anodization is a different thing.
Every day the thirst to see what Motorsport Yellow could be grows a little more.
Aluminum protos arrived and look fantastic. Photos soon. Work begins this week on the yellow and steel samples. I’m feeling really great about where things are headed. :)
Every day the thirst to see what Motorsport Yellow could be grows a little more.
Aluminum protos arrived and look fantastic. Photos soon. Work begins this week on the yellow and steel samples. I’m feeling really great about where things are headed. :)
Any photos coming soon? :)
That’s great news!Every day the thirst to see what Motorsport Yellow could be grows a little more.
Aluminum protos arrived and look fantastic. Photos soon. Work begins this week on the yellow and steel samples. I’m feeling really great about where things are headed. :)
Any photos coming soon? :)
Hehe. Do you guys think I would forget? ;P
The two powder samples and PVD steel are still being completed by their respective vendors. I promise to post pics of all five finishes as soon as I get the remaining parts. :)
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
That’s great news!Every day the thirst to see what Motorsport Yellow could be grows a little more.
Aluminum protos arrived and look fantastic. Photos soon. Work begins this week on the yellow and steel samples. I’m feeling really great about where things are headed. :)
Any photos coming soon? :)
Hehe. Do you guys think I would forget? ;P
The two powder samples and PVD steel are still being completed by their respective vendors. I promise to post pics of all five finishes as soon as I get the remaining parts. :)
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Btw, are you bringing any heavy-6 prototypes to the Keycon this weekend?
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Are all the colors confirmed yet?
Are Retro Refrigerator and Galaxy Console among the options for the Heavy-6?
Are all the colors confirmed yet?
Are Retro Refrigerator and Galaxy Console among the options for the Heavy-6?
I'm planning on two powder-coat finishes only for this run.
Are all the colors confirmed yet?
Are Retro Refrigerator and Galaxy Console among the options for the Heavy-6?
I'm planning on two powder-coat finishes only for this run.
does this confirm that you will have multiple runs of this case!?!?!
So my curiosity finally got me to register. I'd like to know if it would be possible to use this case with just a 66% pcb (like a clueboard pcb for example since it seems to support the same layout), or wouldn't that work for some reason?
That probably means it won't work with the Leopold FC660M as well?
That probably means it won't work with the Leopold FC660M as well?
It will not.
My black on black fc660c arrived about a month ago. waiting for the heavy6. lonely.
unleash the heavy6, norb. do it. how far are we from the gb? :D
I heard you got it today tho. Pls post. Anticipation kills. 🤣🤣My black on black fc660c arrived about a month ago. waiting for the heavy6. lonely.
unleash the heavy6, norb. do it. how far are we from the gb? :D
The steel version shows up on Friday. Slowly inching our way there, but getting close, in short. :)
I heard you got it today tho. Pls post. Anticipation kills. 🤣🤣My black on black fc660c arrived about a month ago. waiting for the heavy6. lonely.
unleash the heavy6, norb. do it. how far are we from the gb? :D
The steel version shows up on Friday. Slowly inching our way there, but getting close, in short. :)
Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk
It has been a busy day in keyboards today so haven't had time yet, but I'm happy to report that it looks beautiful. I need to reconfigure my photo studio back to doing pics due to the video I shot today, but with any luck tomorrow or the following few days. :)
Can we move this thread and updates to keebtalk?
Could you give us a measurement of the height of the front?
https://imgur.com/a/TBbZ8fX This image shows what I'm talking about
In the renders it looked really huge and turned me off from the case. Now with the new photos I think it's not that bad actually but I'd just like some measurement to get a good guess as to what it might be in real life.
Thanks
Hey, just wondering what the price range will be on this case. Just wanna try and push aside some money for this glorious case :D
Would this fit the Leopold FC660M?
did this thing die out? I hadn't seen any updates in sometime.
Pics of steel case. Norbauer pls. 🤤🤤
Here’s where to buy since this thread has been pretty much abandoned for Keebtalk:
https://shop.norbauer.com/products/heavy-6
Here’s where to buy since this thread has been pretty much abandoned for Keebtalk:
https://shop.norbauer.com/products/heavy-6
yea was kinda sad to see that. It made a huge impact on my desire to buy the Heavy-6 special since Norbauer was so passionate about not wanting a website owned by a company. Then he helps start a website with inputclub. Which both are companies. O will case looks amazing so hopefully the buy turns out great and people really enjoy it.
Snagged a motorsport and a bag for my final hugemongous keyboard investment of the year
unless zambumon surprises us with F96H at the end of the year...
then that will be final-final...
Ryan the prototypes look amazing, even though I had my heart set on yellow it was still really hard to choose!
..so I didn't bother to make a GB thread here. Should I?
Is there a typing video?