43+ from my understanding...
For this recent batch, there were around 20 units, if I remember correctly.
I'd kinda got the idea from somewhere that these were a very limited custom run.
Tuning in!Nice!Show Image(http://www.overclock.net/content/type/61/id/1798169/flags/LL)
So yeah, things that are missing, the keys obviously. Then I am missing the wire for my spacebar, will I just have to try to make my own wire? Mine needs a bit of paint in some places, top corner is the only part on the top that needs paint. Mine had no rust, I opened it up and it seemed really clean inside.Tuning in!Nice!Show Image(http://www.overclock.net/content/type/61/id/1798169/)
Yours seems to have a bunch of funky keys like mine. Were any of your Springs broken? I had one which I'll need to replace. I plan on changing the layout though so I think I'll have a spare. Also I need to repaint the top plate ; lots of rust poking through.
The pd3/enter key is a weird size ; the same as the short shift. I have a couple of donor boards around so I was able to get one to put in place of the pd3. I'd love to replace all the keys but I don't know if unicorn has that sort shift mold... Worst case scenario I just ansi mod it and make it like the Hhbk... Which would be fine in my eyes.So yeah, things that are missing, the keys obviously. Then I am missing the wire for my spacebar, will I just have to try to make my own wire? Mine needs a bit of paint in some places, top corner is the only part on the top that needs paint. Mine had no rust, I opened it up and it seemed really clean inside.Tuning in!Nice!Show Image(http://www.overclock.net/content/type/61/id/1798169/)
Yours seems to have a bunch of funky keys like mine. Were any of your Springs broken? I had one which I'll need to replace. I plan on changing the layout though so I think I'll have a spare. Also I need to repaint the top plate ; lots of rust poking through.
Here it is after its cleaning.Show Image(http://cdn.overclock.net/3/36/3687c134_DSC_0646.jpeg)
I want to contact unicomp and see if they can do custom keycaps, I could get one test one and then if it works we could all go that way. (since I don't think the PD1-3 keys are found on any other keyboard)
I know the short shift is something that can be found on a 122 key, but that is it.
Also, this thing is so heavy, it weighed in at 6.5 pounds. I know nothing about the model f's, are they all made of metal?
Also, we need to find the right paint for touching these up :D
EDIT: Enter and reset are missing as well, those are where the control keys are.
I am going to need to take it all the way apart, I didn't realize you meant that plate, for some reason I thought you meant there was rust on the top piece. I am tired and not reading correctly ^-^
I might consider the repainting, if the cost is good and the texture and color turns out the same.I am going to need to take it all the way apart, I didn't realize you meant that plate, for some reason I thought you meant there was rust on the top piece. I am tired and not reading correctly ^-^
I got ya. And yeah we do need to find a pair for the case.
I'm actually thinking of finding a professional to sand blast the whole thing and repaint it the same color.
I will look again later but I honestly didn't see any or much at least.
God I wish there was an oversized, heavy case like this for the poker, that would be awesome, throw some classic beige pbt keycaps on it, retro swag :P
127001, can I get a picture of the spacebar wire and maybe its length and such?133mm long
127001, can I get a picture of the spacebar wire and maybe its length and such?133mm long
22.25mm wide
Connection prongs are 9mm long
wire is 2mm thick
I'll take a photo tomorrow some time. My bar is way too stiff when it's in place though so I wonder if it's the right bar in the first place...
Either way I'm going to make adjustments to it.
127001, can I get a picture of the spacebar wire and maybe its length and such?133mm long
22.25mm wide
Connection prongs are 9mm long
wire is 2mm thick
I'll take a photo tomorrow some time. My bar is way too stiff when it's in place though so I wonder if it's the right bar in the first place...
Either way I'm going to make adjustments to it.
My F122 stabilizer is ~1mm thick, not 2mm. The connection prongs are closer to 4 or 5mm. I don't know what the Kishsaver takes yet, but I imagine it to be the same as the F122. You probably have an M stabilizer.
If the stabilizer snaps into the space bar, then it's almost certainly an M space bar. The F122 space bar has holes that the prongs slide into, not snap into.
Thought that might be the case. Thanks for the info. Looks like I have even more work :P
Making a tab is easy. I used sheet metal bent into a "Z" shape and epoxied in place.
I made mine rather long, and they can be "tuned" by bending the opening longer or shorter.
Thought that might be the case. Thanks for the info. Looks like I have even more work :P
I'm working on making a converter stabilizer, but I've been told multiple times that there are easier ways. I'm still going to see if I can work it out, but fohat.digs has recommended making the tabs to hold the larger M space bar stabilizer, not the other way around:Making a tab is easy. I used sheet metal bent into a "Z" shape and epoxied in place.
I made mine rather long, and they can be "tuned" by bending the opening longer or shorter.Show Image(http://geekhack.org/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=50475.0;attach=48274;image)
I'm thinking of just printing off some rings in the next few weeks that would do it. I'll try to make a few dozen of them.I'd take a dozen. For the future. Because I don't know when/if I'll need them and I can't imagine they are going to be expensive. (if they are, I'll take 4 :P)
I'll let you know when I get to it. It'll likely be a month from now just FYII'm thinking of just printing off some rings in the next few weeks that would do it. I'll try to make a few dozen of them.I'd take a dozen. For the future. Because I don't know when/if I'll need them and I can't imagine they are going to be expensive. (if they are, I'll take 4 :P)
That's all right by me. I'll be occupied with my 60% M project if my parts come in a timely manner.I'll let you know when I get to it. It'll likely be a month from now just FYII'm thinking of just printing off some rings in the next few weeks that would do it. I'll try to make a few dozen of them.I'd take a dozen. For the future. Because I don't know when/if I'll need them and I can't imagine they are going to be expensive. (if they are, I'll take 4 :P)
Oh boy oh boy oh boy, here's another! ;DShow Image(http://i.imgur.com/4mxjBOL.jpg)
Need to give it a good cleaning, that's for sure. And some paint issues. I also suspect I should open this up and check for rust, as you others in the thread are experiencing issues with that. Feels good though! :thumb:
And a reset key, and a shift key and pd1-3 keys :POh boy oh boy oh boy, here's another! ;DShow Image(http://i.imgur.com/4mxjBOL.jpg)
Need to give it a good cleaning, that's for sure. And some paint issues. I also suspect I should open this up and check for rust, as you others in the thread are experiencing issues with that. Feels good though! :thumb:
Be happy - you have Enter key :)
Oh boy oh boy oh boy, here's another! ;DShow Image(http://i.imgur.com/4mxjBOL.jpg)
Need to give it a good cleaning, that's for sure. And some paint issues. I also suspect I should open this up and check for rust, as you others in the thread are experiencing issues with that. Feels good though! :thumb:
HPE1000, keep us informed. I'd like those caps as well :D.The listing on their website makes it sound like its a full set but the person said they could do the 7 keys. I think I will ask what the price of a full set would be since some of my keys are slightly dented and such. These will obviously be 2 piece keys unlike the stock kishsaver keys but it really doesn't matter, makes cleaning the keycaps easier anyway :)
And a reset key, and a shift key and pd1-3 keys :POh boy oh boy oh boy, here's another! ;DShow Image(http://i.imgur.com/4mxjBOL.jpg)
Need to give it a good cleaning, that's for sure. And some paint issues. I also suspect I should open this up and check for rust, as you others in the thread are experiencing issues with that. Feels good though! :thumb:
Be happy - you have Enter key :)
Lucky
So did anybody else not get a stabilizer bar with their kishsaver? Rather than searching for a stabilizer, I might just pop a 1.75 unit key on the board.
Mine only came with one stabilizer in the backspace.
I'm probably gonna split the right shift too.
I would prefer a PCB kit. I think it would be cool if the new controller PCB was made in the style of older electronics, with wide, curvy traces and only through hole components. :)idea i;
I still need to order replacement keycaps from unicomp, does anyone know if their custom keycaps come with the bottom half or is it just the tiny top part?
I am not going to do this until we actually get them working but I found a local place that I might use for media blasting and then powder coating my kishsaver back to its former glory. They seem to do projects of any size so they could probably do it at a good price. If I am happy with them I will surely use them for more projects in the future :)
http://www.cfcpowdercoating.com/
I still need to order replacement keycaps from unicomp, does anyone know if their custom keycaps come with the bottom half or is it just the tiny top part?
I would prefer a PCB kit. I think it would be cool if the new controller PCB was made in the style of older electronics, with wide, curvy traces and only through hole components. :)
"With an ever-expanding array of colors, textures and techniques, we can provide the finish you desire."I am not going to do this until we actually get them working but I found a local place that I might use for media blasting and then powder coating my kishsaver back to its former glory. They seem to do projects of any size so they could probably do it at a good price. If I am happy with them I will surely use them for more projects in the future :)
http://www.cfcpowdercoating.com/
I still need to order replacement keycaps from unicomp, does anyone know if their custom keycaps come with the bottom half or is it just the tiny top part?
Can they replicate the texture? Also, it would be really cool if you made an Industrial Kishsaver. If I get a second, I really want to do that and get a repro silver on black square aluminum IBM badge to put on the upper right corner.
This is mine, all I need now is a controller to get it working on PS/2 or USB
(Attachment Link)
This is mine, all I need now is a controller to get it working on PS/2 or USB
(Attachment Link)
Whoa, I really like those 1-0 caps with the function number printed on the front.
where are you guys getting these? i've never see one for sale. also i bet these things are costly.
kishsaver is the only board to make ssk owners jelly.
where are you guys getting these? i've never see one for sale. also i bet these things are costly.
kishsaver is the only board to make ssk owners jelly.
Tinlong found a bunch and sold them recently.
http://geekhack.org/index.php?topic=50475.0
Spam that thread makes me glad i didnt throw down for one. Tin seems to have really taken advantage of Deskthority and Geekhack on that buy.
where are you guys getting these? i've never see one for sale. also i bet these things are costly.
kishsaver is the only board to make ssk owners jelly.
Tinlong found a bunch and sold them recently.
http://geekhack.org/index.php?topic=50475.0
Spam that thread makes me glad i didnt throw down for one. Tin seems to have really taken advantage of Deskthority and Geekhack on that buy.
My Kishsaver is currently being restored
My Kishsaver is currently being restoredShow Image(http://i.imgur.com/LMe6GMC.jpg)
My Kishsaver is currently being restoredShow Image(http://i.imgur.com/LMe6GMC.jpg)
Anyone have any idea where we stand on converting them?
I think everyone is, I meant if we were close to getting them converted or if it is still going to take awhile. :pAnyone have any idea where we stand on converting them?
I'm in favor of converting them.
I can't speak for the entire community, of course.
I think everyone is, I meant if we were close to getting them converted or if it is still going to take awhile. :pAnyone have any idea where we stand on converting them?
I'm in favor of converting them.
I can't speak for the entire community, of course.
So I'm thinking about how I want my KS to look when it is functional; key cap color, case color, key layout. I am thinking of going with traditional ivory/pebble caps and oil-rubbed-bronze for the case. The paint stripper will take off all of the texture, so I might go with the "hammered" type paint. For key layout, I think I will put Esc at the top left and split the backspace to make room for grave/tilde and delete (I work in Windows). I will also split the right shift (arrow cluster), but join the two keys above for a standard ANSI Enter. Caps Lock will be a Fn key.I was initially thinking I wanted to go 100% original for keys and layout, as in trying to get the PD keys I am missing and everything but now I think I want to convert it to standard ANSI normal keycaps. I was also thinking I might get it powder coated again at a local shop if they are cheap enough. If not then I will try to get a bit of touch up paint that I think would match and fix the chipped paint on mine.
Comments?
So I'm thinking about how I want my KS to look when it is functional; key cap color, case color, key layout. I am thinking of going with traditional ivory/pebble caps and oil-rubbed-bronze for the case. The paint stripper will take off all of the texture, so I might go with the "hammered" type paint. For key layout, I think I will put Esc at the top left and split the backspace to make room for grave/tilde and delete (I work in Windows). I will also split the right shift (arrow cluster), but join the two keys above for a standard ANSI Enter. Caps Lock will be a Fn key.
Comments?
I'd be concerned with having Fn on the same hand as Ctrl/Windows/Alt because I think it will limit your ability to chord easily, especially anything that is Ctrl + anything on the function later.I don't think I use any Win or Ctrl+Fn layer combos (am I forgetting something?). I use Alt+F4 a fair amount, though. It looks odd, but it is easy enough for me to type with thumb, pinky, and index. But this might be a good time to try out Space Function.
I'm considering adding a pin hole in the case for caps lock LED. What do you guys think?
I don't think I use any Win or Ctrl+Fn layer combos (am I forgetting something?).
So I'm thinking about how I want my KS to look when it is functional; key cap color, case color, key layout. I am thinking of going with traditional ivory/pebble caps and oil-rubbed-bronze for the case. The paint stripper will take off all of the texture, so I might go with the "hammered" type paint. For key layout, I think I will put Esc at the top left and split the backspace to make room for grave/tilde and delete (I work in Windows). I will also split the right shift (arrow cluster), but join the two keys above for a standard ANSI Enter. Caps Lock will be a Fn key.
Comments?
So I'm thinking about how I want my KS to look when it is functional; key cap color, case color, key layout. I am thinking of going with traditional ivory/pebble caps and oil-rubbed-bronze for the case. The paint stripper will take off all of the texture, so I might go with the "hammered" type paint. For key layout, I think I will put Esc at the top left and split the backspace to make room for grave/tilde and delete (I work in Windows). I will also split the right shift (arrow cluster), but join the two keys above for a standard ANSI Enter. Caps Lock will be a Fn key.
Comments?
Huh I like that layout but I don't like the 1x Delete/Backspace. I think if I were using that layout, I'm swap |\ for the backspace like the HHKB delete.HHKB backspace was my first thought (I even have a 1.5 backspace printed). Then I realized that it would be complicated to do Ctrl+Alt+Del without a dedicated delete key. I like the idea of making backspace easier to reach, and what is easier to reach than the space bar? So backspace became Fn+space. I tried to make the second layer so intuitive that second legends would not be needed.
I've also been thinking I might get this board powdercoated black.
What are the P/N's for the Kishsaver, certainly there is more than one?
I just got my Kish the other day. I'm glad I didn't miss my chance to get one.Nice, awesome click clack as well :)Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/OdoqShT.jpg)Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/sTn1VVV.jpg)
I just got my Kish the other day. I'm glad I didn't miss my chance to get one.Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/OdoqShT.jpg)Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/sTn1VVV.jpg)
So I stripped my Kishsaver naked. Here's a picture of her topless.
(Attachment Link)
Since Hasu released his converter code, i have been thinking of where i could put a Teensy inside the case. It occurred to me that the sound board was level and close to the case seam. This daughter card is sandwiched between 5 pins and the top rim of a cutout. Interestingly, the thickness of the metal at the seam ... much thicker on the bottom than on the top.
(Attachment Link) (Attachment Link)
The soundboard is about 4mm too low to be ideal, so i stuck the Teensy on with a blob of hot glue. By the way, hot glue looses it's adhesion when exposed to isopropyl alcohol, so i'm not worried about damaging either part.
(Attachment Link) (Attachment Link)
I will need to trim the metal a bit for proper fit.
(Attachment Link) (Attachment Link)
Is both the top and bottom of the chasis metal?Yes
I regret not getting a Kishsaver from tin more and more everyday. T_T
I just got my Kish the other day. I'm glad I didn't miss my chance to get one.Nice, awesome click clack as well :)Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/OdoqShT.jpg)Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/sTn1VVV.jpg)
Time for me to drop in :)
here is my Kish:
(Attachment Link)
Good
- It is a KISHSAVER
- It IS a Kishsaver
- All Keys were there :D... some now changed to qwerz-layout. Also the right shift key had the Word "Shift" imprinted and i changed it to a blank one. Can someone tell me which one would be authentic?
- IT IS A KISHSAVER
(sorry for beeing loud)
Not so good
- I was not able to clean everything until now. This big yellow spot on the top part resists and there are also some areas where the board collided with something red and the rubbed-off red whateveritwas seem to aspirated into the paint.
Does anybody have any Ideas how to clean it further?
- Heavy dent on the bottom - not a drama but also not great :-\
- Many paint chippings. I am not sure now how to deal with them. On the one hand it would be cool to get rid of the paint and the chippings and the yellow and red spots, spackle the dent and repaint it. On the other hand i want to keep it as original as possible and i have no idea how to recieve the exact tone and the exact texture.
- Broken plastic on connector. Please PM me if you have a connector in better condition that you do/will not need when the converter will be ready.
What to do:
- further cleaning the shell (as soon as i find a way) or a complete repaint
- tinker a spacebar-wire-thing
- repaint the barrel plate (It is in good condition but for a very small rust spot)
- change 2 springs (do they have the same base as model f springs/are they interchangeable?)
Welcome to GH! Nice to see you around here. :)
snoopy
1) I was not able to clean everything until now. This big yellow spot on the top part resists and there are also some areas where the board collided with something red and the rubbed-off red whateveritwas seem to aspirated into the paint. Does anybody have any Ideas how to clean it further?
2) Many paint chippings. I am not sure now how to deal with them. On the one hand it would be cool to get rid of the paint and the chippings and the yellow and red spots, spackle the dent and repaint it. On the other hand i want to keep it as original as possible and i have no idea how to recieve the exact tone and the exact texture.
3) Do they have the same base as model f springs/are they interchangeable?
So, about my spacebar, I need help obtaining a proper metal stabilizer bar.
If I take the stabilizer bar from my model m and put it in the kishsaver, the spacebar just get stuck once it is depressed. Why is this?
Next on the list is getting a bunch of those stabilizer plastic inserts so I can convert this to a standard ANSI layout with model m keycaps. All my keycaps need replaced tbh. It has a mix between the stock, single piece keycaps that came with it from the start, and the rest are model m 2 part keycaps. Most if not all of the stock keycaps are dented really bad.
I guess M bar to F body would be the best because I can get a brand new spacebar from unicomp in that case, my spacebar is so dirty.
PM incoming, thanks :)
Also, if/when I get this powder coated, how do you think I should go about getting this sticker off? The writing on it is really faint by now but I still like it, it says it was made in 83, I don't know what the orange sticker is for though.Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/AxX8zad.jpg)
stupid images rotating all the time when I upload them..
The bar with the stabilizer wire on it is from my model m, this spacebar looks identical so I guess it's a model m one as well, right? Model f spacebars are different I think.Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/vLeq0Lr.jpg)
The label that i am printing for myself will look like this. I might put the IBM logo or buckling spring graphic on the right side - i haven't decided. The dot matrix font is the closest i could find. If anyone out there wants to volunteer to make a better match to IBM dot matrix, please let me know.
Again, if anyone wants one of these (or anything else that fits) on gold foil, PM me your postal address, text, and font choice.
(Attachment Link)
I use this (http://www.mcmaster.com/#89085k84/=qvrrcu) stainless wire and this (http://www.mcmaster.com/#8988k38/=qvrr80) stainless tube. The wire is enough to do 25 and each foot of tube enough to do 6, so i have quite a bit extra. I'm not going to charge anything for this because it's not costing me anything. I use a Vice Grips and channel lock pliers to do the bending. I keep saying that i will do a video. One day.
I like the IBM logo
...
I'd also like to order one, but I can't read the last 3 digits of the ID NO...
I sort of did that with mine, took a picture and then turned up the contrast as high as possible. I'll PM you about a sticker I guess :)...
I'd also like to order one, but I can't read the last 3 digits of the ID NO...
I dropped my KS on a scanner and grabbed a high res image - then played with the color/contrast. Below is before and after.
(Attachment Link)
I think I would like the IBM logo small and in the top right corner, as in your scan there. Can you do mine like that?Ditto, that is what I want.
like this?
(Attachment Link)
This is my Kishsaver.
I went for the Industrial-look.Show Image(https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-0HMEzRUVyzs/UwOlZduFd6I/AAAAAAAAC_8/wiwpzeAg2Cs/w1278-h946-no/IMG_20140218_191948.jpg)
like this?
(Attachment Link)
Watch me make a spacebar stabilizer.I wouldn't have ever thought of doing that(wire tubing on thinner wire). Thank you for making these. :thumb:
http://youtu.be/dA8IpiIgwxo (http://youtu.be/dA8IpiIgwxo)
Watch me make a spacebar stabilizer.
http://youtu.be/dA8IpiIgwxo (http://youtu.be/dA8IpiIgwxo)
I took it completely apart today, partly because my Q key was acting up and I am going to see what was wrong, when I press it, it makes this odd sound, first 3 presses are a normal switch, and the last 3 are the Q key. What could be wrong?
https://soundcloud.com/user343835333/kishsaver-spring-problem
My PCB is dusty, anything I should know about cleaning this thing? Proper way of doing it?Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/odI14jN.jpg)
I tweaked the label slightly. Replaced the dot matrix font with one I made and made the logo slightly larger. Both changes to more closely match the original. I have not printed them on the label stock yet, but it should look like the picture below. I still have three more spots is anyone wants one.
(Attachment Link)
Wcass, I'd be interested in a wire spacebar adapter that fits a Model M spacebar to a Model F body. And one of the logos. However, I'm traveling right now. Can we talk when I'm back? I tend to lose PMs when I'm on Tapatalk/my phone :(.
I tweaked the label slightly. Replaced the dot matrix font with one I made and made the logo slightly larger. Both changes to more closely match the original. I have not printed them on the label stock yet, but it should look like the picture below. I still have three more spots is anyone wants one.
(Attachment Link)
Sorry CPT. I lost you in the mix. I would be happy to send you a PDF with embedded fonts of your label that you can print yourself on a label sheet. You can order a single sheet of label from www.labelsbythesheet.com (http://www.labelsbythesheet.com) for about $5 including delivery. this (http://www.labelsbythesheet.com/items/foil-labels/silver-water-resist-poly-full-sheet-laser-labels/list.htm) looks just like the stock silver label.I tweaked the label slightly. Replaced the dot matrix font with one I made and made the logo slightly larger. Both changes to more closely match the original. I have not printed them on the label stock yet, but it should look like the picture below. I still have three more spots is anyone wants one.
(Attachment Link)
I'd like a label. I'll post a picture of my sticker later today if that works for you wcass?Wcass, I'd be interested in a wire spacebar adapter that fits a Model M spacebar to a Model F body. And one of the logos. However, I'm traveling right now. Can we talk when I'm back? I tend to lose PMs when I'm on Tapatalk/my phone :( .
And is my request part of the 16 you spoke of earlier? I'd still really like an adapter. :D
Label arrived Saturday. Looks great. Thank, wcass.
On another note, for case re-painting, did anybody just paint over the existing paint? Or did you scrape off the existing paint, and then add another layer? I'm wondering how hard it will be to scrape off all the existing paint, and maybe what I could use to do so.
Label arrived Saturday. Looks great. Thank, wcass.
On another note, for case re-painting, did anybody just paint over the existing paint? Or did you scrape off the existing paint, and then add another layer? I'm wondering how hard it will be to scrape off all the existing paint, and maybe what I could use to do so.
Label arrived Saturday. Looks great. Thank, wcass.
On another note, for case re-painting, did anybody just paint over the existing paint? Or did you scrape off the existing paint, and then add another layer? I'm wondering how hard it will be to scrape off all the existing paint, and maybe what I could use to do so.
Great to hear.
I stripped paint using stuff i got at the Home Depot; Klean Strip Premium Stripper 15 minute paste, 1" plastic paint scraper, 1" chip brush. The paint came off very easy. I was tempted to just clear-coat it - the bare metal looked so nice.
FOR THE LOVE OF ALL THAT'S HOLY, WCASS!!!!!! :eek: THESE STICKERS LOOK AMAZING :eek:
*Ahem* err.. I mean, well done sir. Very well done and thank you for making these for us.Show Image(http://l.mashby.com/abm9+)
There's one in classifieds :Psamwisekoi might be interested :)
... but wait. If you act now, I'll triple your order. Not only will you get the super amazing Kishsaver label in luxurious polished gold with painstakingly recreated font and logos - but also two additional labels; one in high reflectivity polished silver and the other in water resistant brushed silver. AND IF YOU ACT NOW - I'll throw in FOUR logo stickers at NO ADDITIONAL COST!
I guess you missed the late night TV infomercial.Quote... but wait. If you act now, I'll triple your order. Not only will you get the super amazing Kishsaver label in luxurious polished gold with painstakingly recreated font and logos - but also two additional labels; one in high reflectivity polished silver and the other in water resistant brushed silver. AND IF YOU ACT NOW - I'll throw in FOUR logo stickers at NO ADDITIONAL COST!
Making these really was a lot of fun for me.
I guess you missed the late night TV infomercial.Sounds about right, once I saw mashbys post I had to run to the mailbox :PQuote... but wait. If you act now, I'll triple your order. Not only will you get the super amazing Kishsaver label in luxurious polished gold with painstakingly recreated font and logos - but also two additional labels; one in high reflectivity polished silver and the other in water resistant brushed silver. AND IF YOU ACT NOW - I'll throw in FOUR logo stickers at NO ADDITIONAL COST!
Making these really was a lot of fun for me.
Has anyone done a 3D model of the rubber feet or that plastic spacer between the top cover and key assembly?
Just out of curiosity, how much did these originally sell for (from tinlong)?
I need one :'(
About 150 after all the shipping and such. A steal imo.
Just out of curiosity, how much did these originally sell for (from tinlong)?
I need one :'(
About 150 after all the shipping and such. A steal imo.
I will give you one if I can be your bf. :eek:
I should have joined :( Stupid finances made me hesitate.
tinnie don't you already have a gf?
Palmela Handersontinnie don't you already have a gf?Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/ElHKnIc.jpg)
Just out of curiosity, how much did these originally sell for (from tinlong)?
80+35+shippping in the states.
Just out of curiosity, how much did these originally sell for (from tinlong)?
80+35+shippping in the states.
Everybody seems to be selling theirs, is there something I don't know about? :-X
How close are the converters to being done btw?
Everybody seems to be selling theirs, is there something I don't know about? :-X
How close are the converters to being done btw?
riot is right, I think many of us jumped at the occasion when tinlong sold them, however after receiving them and having it for a couple of months the realizing that we just don't time.
My 6019284 isn't going anywhere. Staying with me for a long long time :D.
My 6019284 isn't going anywhere. Staying with me for a long long time :D.
What if someone offered you one meeeelion dollars for it? Just kidding. If I had one I would keep it too.
Good point! But technically you'd then have someone else's keyboard... And what if it wasn't as good as the original? You'd only have $999,800 or so to console yourself with.
I love it when people say that something isn't for sale. It just means they haven't been offered the right price. Basically, everything is for sale, it's just a matter of finding an amount that is so ridiculously attractive to the owner that they are finally willing to part with their precious item.
They can have your kishsaver when they pry it from underneath your cold, dead fingers!
Just wanted to say that I got wcass' wire adapter for the spacebar yesterday. Now I can use my Model M set on the 6019284! Works great and the wire fits perfectly. Thanks again wcass. :DShow Image(http://i.imgur.com/RsdFgG1.jpg)Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/Ff1AHYi.jpg)
How i make replacement foam ...For foam material i use 1/16 neoprene from McMaster. It compresses easily to .5mm and is cheap.
- print out the attached template at 100% on legal paper (just a few cents at the office supply store).
- check measurements are accurate. if too small/big, adjust scale and re-print.
- stick thin double-sided tape on the back - just outside the boarder.
- unroll new foam material on top so that it sticks to the tape.
- use dies/mallet to punch out the holes.
- use a razor to cut the slots.
- use scissors to cut the boarder.
http://www.mcmaster.com/#8647k102/=s0yd5e
I got my die set from HF. They go on sale from time-to-time.
http://www.harborfreight.com/9-piece-hollow-punch-set-3838.html
Some folks punch a single big hole that goes around the notch. I prefer to make two punches. Ether way will work. My template for the KS is below. TBH, i have not used this specific template myself (my foam was in like-new condition) so double check the positions. I have templates for the AT and 122 also; PM me if you need one.
Maybe the case is a Zinc-Aluminum blend (Zamak) but it is a unconfirmed rumor^^.
BtW... i am still searching for a kishsaver connector (that plastic-chunk at the end of the cable) ... somebody wants to get rid of it now that a controllerboard is in reach?
OK kids. I got a hold of the powdercoater who did the Panavises (http://geekhack.org/index.php?topic=51148.msg1229409#msg1229409) to look at powdercoating the 6019284s. Does anyone want to powdercoat their board? What color? I'm thinking industrial grey or charcoal grey. And of course purple. But if we're going to GB it, I'll have to compromise.
OK kids. I got a hold of the powdercoater who did the Panavises (http://geekhack.org/index.php?topic=51148.msg1229409#msg1229409) to look at powdercoating the 6019284s. Does anyone want to powdercoat their board? What color? I'm thinking industrial grey or charcoal grey. And of course purple. But if we're going to GB it, I'll have to compromise.
Can we get a link or explanation on what jdcarpurple is? I have no idea what you guys are talking about. :confused:
Can we get a link or explanation on what jdcarpurple is? I have no idea what you guys are talking about. :confused:
Jdcarpe had his...Poker (I think?) powdercoated in this lovely glittery purple color. I've wanted it for a long time but accidently forgot about it until now. He calls it "jdcarpurple".
So I got around to stripping the paint off my Kishsaver, sanding it down, and spraying on a clearcoat. I probably will keep this bare metal look, even with some of deep scratches from the paint chipper and wire brush that I did not bother to remove. It will match all my kitchen appliances:
(Attachment Link) (Attachment Link)
(Attachment Link)
So I got around to stripping the paint off my Kishsaver, sanding it down, and spraying on a clearcoat. I probably will keep this bare metal look, even with some of deep scratches from the paint chipper and wire brush that I did not bother to remove. It will match all my kitchen appliances:
(Attachment Link) (Attachment Link)
(Attachment Link)
I love that look, scratches and all.
So I got around to stripping the paint off my Kishsaver, sanding it down, and spraying on a clearcoat. I probably will keep this bare metal look, even with some of deep scratches from the paint chipper and wire brush that I did not bother to remove. It will match all my kitchen appliances:
(Attachment Link) (Attachment Link)
(Attachment Link)
So I got around to stripping the paint off my Kishsaver, sanding it down, and spraying on a clearcoat. I probably will keep this bare metal look, even with some of deep scratches from the paint chipper and wire brush that I did not bother to remove. It will match all my kitchen appliances:
(Attachment Link) (Attachment Link)
(Attachment Link)
So I got around to stripping the paint off my Kishsaver, sanding it down, and spraying on a clearcoat. I probably will keep this bare metal look, even with some of deep scratches from the paint chipper and wire brush that I did not bother to remove. It will match all my kitchen appliances:
(Attachment Link) (Attachment Link)
(Attachment Link)
Looking good, I'm doing the same thing. But I'm going to try to sand it in one direction to get that brushed metal look.
I gave up on the spacers. The case is still tight without them and I have not noticed any problems. I think they mainly serve to line up the keyboard assembly with the case when you screw them together, but it seems the keyboard will be fine without them. The assembled keyboard is still tight and sturdy during use without the spacers.
I gave up on the spacers. The case is still tight without them and I have not noticed any problems. I think they mainly serve to line up the keyboard assembly with the case when you screw them together, but it seems the keyboard will be fine without them. The assembled keyboard is still tight and sturdy during use without the spacers.
The spacers are actually there to make sure that there isn't too much pressure on the top plate. If you notice, the curve of the case actually presses into the top plate as it's screwed in, so there's a risk of damage to barrels or pcb if it's screwed down too much.
So I got around to stripping the paint off my Kishsaver, sanding it down, and spraying on a clearcoat. I probably will keep this bare metal look, even with some of deep scratches from the paint chipper and wire brush that I did not bother to remove. It will match all my kitchen appliances:
(Attachment Link) (Attachment Link)
(Attachment Link)
Looking good, I'm doing the same thing. But I'm going to try to sand it in one direction to get that brushed metal look.
I believe all this is possible but I don't know how to get started. Can someone point me towards a good resource?
I believe all this is possible but I don't know how to get started. Can someone point me towards a good resource?
Step 1) Unscrew the screws to separate the the case halves.
Step 2) Remove the back and unscrew the 4 screws holding the plate/hammers/caps to the top of the case
Step 3) Remove the screw holding on the PCBs at the top
Step 4) Carefully bend the tab near the screw that holds in the PCB
Step 5) Remove the plate/hammers/caps assembly
From here it's a bit tricky. I couldn't remove the plate from the assembly without a hammer so I couldn't do what phosphorglow shows in his video. He removes the plate then tapes the hammers on a piece of tape, one per row, so the hammers don't all fall out. I did it the hard way. Put the assembly on the side, got the plate off, then all the hammers fell out and it was a PITA to reseat them all. You can try putting the assembly face down, removing the plate, and then taping the hammers them pulling them out. Watch his video if you're not sure what I'm talking about.
Once the plate is removed, you can move the hammers around to accomidate the layout you would like. When you're done, do everything in reverse. It's not too hard. If you don't drop all the hammers out, it's a fairly quick mod.
If you have more questions, I can take pictures.
So, to summarize: Don't drop the hammers. Move some of the around.
Got it :thumb:
I believe all this is possible but I don't know how to get started. Can someone point me towards a good resource?
Step 1) Unscrew the screws to separate the the case halves.
Step 2) Remove the back and unscrew the 4 screws holding the plate/hammers/caps to the top of the case
Step 3) Remove the screw holding on the PCBs at the top
Step 4) Carefully bend the tab near the screw that holds in the PCB
Step 5) Remove the plate/hammers/caps assembly
From here it's a bit tricky. I couldn't remove the plate from the assembly without a hammer so I couldn't do what phosphorglow shows in his video. He removes the plate then tapes the hammers on a piece of tape, one per row, so the hammers don't all fall out. I did it the hard way. Put the assembly on the side, got the plate off, then all the hammers fell out and it was a PITA to reseat them all. You can try putting the assembly face down, removing the plate, and then taping the hammers them pulling them out. Watch his video if you're not sure what I'm talking about.
Once the plate is removed, you can move the hammers around to accomidate the layout you would like. When you're done, do everything in reverse. It's not too hard. If you don't drop all the hammers out, it's a fairly quick mod.
If you have more questions, I can take pictures.
So I got around to stripping the paint off my Kishsaver, sanding it down, and spraying on a clearcoat. I probably will keep this bare metal look, even with some of deep scratches from the paint chipper and wire brush that I did not bother to remove. It will match all my kitchen appliances:
(Attachment Link) (Attachment Link)
(Attachment Link)
Looking good, I'm doing the same thing. But I'm going to try to sand it in one direction to get that brushed metal look.
ermahgerd you guys quit copying my idea.
If only I wasn't so lazy. :blank:
I believe all this is possible but I don't know how to get started. Can someone point me towards a good resource?
Step 1) Unscrew the screws to separate the the case halves.
Step 2) Remove the back and unscrew the 4 screws holding the plate/hammers/caps to the top of the case
Step 3) Remove the screw holding on the PCBs at the top
Step 4) Carefully bend the tab near the screw that holds in the PCB
Step 5) Remove the plate/hammers/caps assembly
From here it's a bit tricky. I couldn't remove the plate from the assembly without a hammer so I couldn't do what phosphorglow shows in his video. He removes the plate then tapes the hammers on a piece of tape, one per row, so the hammers don't all fall out. I did it the hard way. Put the assembly on the side, got the plate off, then all the hammers fell out and it was a PITA to reseat them all. You can try putting the assembly face down, removing the plate, and then taping the hammers them pulling them out. Watch his video if you're not sure what I'm talking about.
Once the plate is removed, you can move the hammers around to accomidate the layout you would like. When you're done, do everything in reverse. It's not too hard. If you don't drop all the hammers out, it's a fairly quick mod.
If you have more questions, I can take pictures.
So, to summarize: Don't drop the hammers. Move some of the around.
Got it :thumb:
I believe all this is possible but I don't know how to get started. Can someone point me towards a good resource?
Step 1) Unscrew the screws to separate the the case halves.
Step 2) Remove the back and unscrew the 4 screws holding the plate/hammers/caps to the top of the case
Step 3) Remove the screw holding on the PCBs at the top
Step 4) Carefully bend the tab near the screw that holds in the PCB
Step 5) Remove the plate/hammers/caps assembly
From here it's a bit tricky. I couldn't remove the plate from the assembly without a hammer so I couldn't do what phosphorglow shows in his video. He removes the plate then tapes the hammers on a piece of tape, one per row, so the hammers don't all fall out. I did it the hard way. Put the assembly on the side, got the plate off, then all the hammers fell out and it was a PITA to reseat them all. You can try putting the assembly face down, removing the plate, and then taping the hammers them pulling them out. Watch his video if you're not sure what I'm talking about.
Once the plate is removed, you can move the hammers around to accomidate the layout you would like. When you're done, do everything in reverse. It's not too hard. If you don't drop all the hammers out, it's a fairly quick mod.
If you have more questions, I can take pictures.
So, to summarize: Don't drop the hammers. Move some of the around.
Got it :thumb:
TBH, I modified my layout (removed a few hammers and did something similar to what you're doing - turned it into a more standard layout), and it was actually quite simple. If you just remember to always keep it upside down so you don't lose hammers you should be good.
Actually, I'll be taking mine apart soon to clean glass shards out of it, so if you think you would benefit from a video I'd be happy to put something together.
I believe all this is possible but I don't know how to get started. Can someone point me towards a good resource?
Step 1) Unscrew the screws to separate the the case halves.
Step 2) Remove the back and unscrew the 4 screws holding the plate/hammers/caps to the top of the case
Step 3) Remove the screw holding on the PCBs at the top
Step 4) Carefully bend the tab near the screw that holds in the PCB
Step 5) Remove the plate/hammers/caps assembly
From here it's a bit tricky. I couldn't remove the plate from the assembly without a hammer so I couldn't do what phosphorglow shows in his video. He removes the plate then tapes the hammers on a piece of tape, one per row, so the hammers don't all fall out. I did it the hard way. Put the assembly on the side, got the plate off, then all the hammers fell out and it was a PITA to reseat them all. You can try putting the assembly face down, removing the plate, and then taping the hammers them pulling them out. Watch his video if you're not sure what I'm talking about.
Once the plate is removed, you can move the hammers around to accomidate the layout you would like. When you're done, do everything in reverse. It's not too hard. If you don't drop all the hammers out, it's a fairly quick mod.
If you have more questions, I can take pictures.
So, to summarize: Don't drop the hammers. Move some of the around.
Got it :thumb:
TBH, I modified my layout (removed a few hammers and did something similar to what you're doing - turned it into a more standard layout), and it was actually quite simple. If you just remember to always keep it upside down so you don't lose hammers you should be good.
Actually, I'll be taking mine apart soon to clean glass shards out of it, so if you think you would benefit from a video I'd be happy to put something together.
I actually did it earlier today and it wasn't so bad :). I just gave everything a thorough cleaning. Some of the hammers aren't seated quite right and don't click correctly though, but I'll fix that when I take it apart again to install my controller when it arrives.
MoreI believe all this is possible but I don't know how to get started. Can someone point me towards a good resource?
Step 1) Unscrew the screws to separate the the case halves.
Step 2) Remove the back and unscrew the 4 screws holding the plate/hammers/caps to the top of the case
Step 3) Remove the screw holding on the PCBs at the top
Step 4) Carefully bend the tab near the screw that holds in the PCB
Step 5) Remove the plate/hammers/caps assembly
From here it's a bit tricky. I couldn't remove the plate from the assembly without a hammer so I couldn't do what phosphorglow shows in his video. He removes the plate then tapes the hammers on a piece of tape, one per row, so the hammers don't all fall out. I did it the hard way. Put the assembly on the side, got the plate off, then all the hammers fell out and it was a PITA to reseat them all. You can try putting the assembly face down, removing the plate, and then taping the hammers them pulling them out. Watch his video if you're not sure what I'm talking about.
Once the plate is removed, you can move the hammers around to accomidate the layout you would like. When you're done, do everything in reverse. It's not too hard. If you don't drop all the hammers out, it's a fairly quick mod.
If you have more questions, I can take pictures.
So, to summarize: Don't drop the hammers. Move some of the around.
Got it :thumb:
TBH, I modified my layout (removed a few hammers and did something similar to what you're doing - turned it into a more standard layout), and it was actually quite simple. If you just remember to always keep it upside down so you don't lose hammers you should be good.
Actually, I'll be taking mine apart soon to clean glass shards out of it, so if you think you would benefit from a video I'd be happy to put something together.
I actually did it earlier today and it wasn't so bad :). I just gave everything a thorough cleaning. Some of the hammers aren't seated quite right and don't click correctly though, but I'll fix that when I take it apart again to install my controller when it arrives.
Oh, nice. :) Also, you probably already realized this, but just in case not: I had a bunch of trouble getting the caps to seat on the springs properly. I basically had to have the board propped up at a 90 degree angle, on its back, to get the springs to "relax" so as to allow me to put the caps on the right way. Without doing that, they wouldn't click, or really work at all. Maybe that's causing it? If not, then yeah you'll have to re-seat them. :)
So much did you guys have to shell out for yours?
Wow that's not even that bad :)So much did you guys have to shell out for yours?
I think it was on the order of $130 to get the board sent to CPTBadAss, and then another $17 or so from him to me. But the first number (the important one, I know :P ) is a guess as I can't find the paypal transaction to confirm it. :-X
It's a bit painful after you figure in powder coating, new keycaps, and a controller for it. :-XWow that's not even that bad :)So much did you guys have to shell out for yours?
I think it was on the order of $130 to get the board sent to CPTBadAss, and then another $17 or so from him to me. But the first number (the important one, I know :P ) is a guess as I can't find the paypal transaction to confirm it. :-X
Yeah, a Kishsaver would definitely be an "all in" project.It's a bit painful after you figure in powder coating, new keycaps, and a controller for it. :-XWow that's not even that bad :)So much did you guys have to shell out for yours?
I think it was on the order of $130 to get the board sent to CPTBadAss, and then another $17 or so from him to me. But the first number (the important one, I know :P ) is a guess as I can't find the paypal transaction to confirm it. :-X
Although I doubt everyone is going to powder coat theirs as well as replace the keycaps.
So much did you guys have to shell out for yours?
I think it was on the order of $130 to get the board sent to CPTBadAss, and then another $17 or so from him to me. But the first number (the important one, I know :P ) is a guess as I can't find the paypal transaction to confirm it. :-X
Even better ;DSo much did you guys have to shell out for yours?
I think it was on the order of $130 to get the board sent to CPTBadAss, and then another $17 or so from him to me. But the first number (the important one, I know :P ) is a guess as I can't find the paypal transaction to confirm it. :-X
It was $84 for the board and $36.50 for shipping from HK. Then $17.30 for shipping within CONUS from me to the buyer.
So I got around to stripping the paint off my Kishsaver, sanding it down, and spraying on a clearcoat. I probably will keep this bare metal look, even with some of deep scratches from the paint chipper and wire brush that I did not bother to remove. It will match all my kitchen appliances:
(Attachment Link) (Attachment Link)
(Attachment Link)
So I got around to stripping the paint off my Kishsaver, sanding it down, and spraying on a clearcoat. I probably will keep this bare metal look, even with some of deep scratches from the paint chipper and wire brush that I did not bother to remove. It will match all my kitchen appliances:
(Attachment Link) (Attachment Link)
(Attachment Link)
Thanks mashby :)
There's a few things that need to be changed/fixed still:
- The flippers on 8* and a need to be replaced.
- The right shift is sitting funny. Not totally sure what to do to fix that.
- I'm also not entirely sure how the spacebar is supposed to be stabilized. The wire is thicker than can fit in the inserts that are already in the plate – are other people making their own inserts or doing something else entirely?
- Unicomp's dyesub QC is really bad. I ordered an APL set and one of the 1.5u Alt and 1.5u Ctrl were aligned very poorly. I asked for replacements, specifying '1.5unit "Alt" from APL set' and '1.5unit "Ctrl" from APL set' and I received the Option/Alt key pictured and a "Control" key :|. Also the alignment on the Ctrl in the caps lock position is messed up.
All that said, I'm typing on a living dinosaur :D
...If you re-used the insert that came from an ISO Enter or num pad Enter, then you are using a vertical insert (hole is off center) - you want to use a horizontal insert (hole is on center).
- The right shift is sitting funny. Not totally sure what to do to fix that.
- I'm also not entirely sure how the spacebar is supposed to be stabilized. The wire is thicker than can fit in the inserts that are already in the plate – are other people making their own inserts or doing something else entirely?That sounds like you got a Model M space bar; these need a stabilizer wire replacement to function properly. At least one other KS came with an M space bar, so you are not alone. I'm out of stainless steel tubing at the moment, but will get some the next time I order from McMaster. PM me your address and i will send one to you.
APL != Apple
- Unicomp's dyesub QC is really bad. I ordered an APL set and one of the 1.5u Alt and 1.5u Ctrl were aligned very poorly. I asked for replacements, specifying '1.5unit "Alt" from APL set' and '1.5unit "Ctrl" from APL set' and I received the Option/Alt key pictured and a "Control" key :|
Potato, toe for scaleShow Image(http://i.imgur.com/aCbHxPZ.jpg)
Potato, toe for scaleShow Image(http://i.imgur.com/aCbHxPZ.jpg)
Call me strange, but I prefer the full touch keys, like Alt and Ctrl. Exception permitted for Caps Lock, except you have Ctrl on there, ;D
Just the top half, it still needs some work. The bottom half still has a lot of spaces I need to get to.
From this:Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/OdoqShT.jpg)
To this:Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/PmbyIKe.jpg)
Just the top half, it still needs some work. The bottom half still has a lot of spaces I need to get to.
From this:Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/OdoqShT.jpg)
To this:Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/PmbyIKe.jpg)
Looks great Sleepy! What did you use to remove the paint?
Just the top half, it still needs some work. The bottom half still has a lot of spaces I need to get to.
From this:Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/OdoqShT.jpg)
To this:Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/PmbyIKe.jpg)
Looks great Sleepy! What did you use to remove the paint?
I used this, it has worked really well.Show Image(http://static.pepboys.com/images/productImages/71282100/Aircraft-Paint-Remover-Flexible-Plastic-Aerosol.jpg)
Just the top half, it still needs some work. The bottom half still has a lot of spaces I need to get to.
From this:Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/OdoqShT.jpg)
To this:Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/PmbyIKe.jpg)
Looks great Sleepy! What did you use to remove the paint?
I used this, it has worked really well.Show Image(http://static.pepboys.com/images/productImages/71282100/Aircraft-Paint-Remover-Flexible-Plastic-Aerosol.jpg)
Did you use any other tools to remove the paint, like a paint scraper and such?
Just the top half, it still needs some work. The bottom half still has a lot of spaces I need to get to.
From this:Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/OdoqShT.jpg)
To this:Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/PmbyIKe.jpg)
Looks great Sleepy! What did you use to remove the paint?
I used this, it has worked really well.Show Image(http://static.pepboys.com/images/productImages/71282100/Aircraft-Paint-Remover-Flexible-Plastic-Aerosol.jpg)
You got two! And going for the Darth Vader look? Do you have white on black caps to complete it?
Potato, toe for scaleShow Image(http://i.imgur.com/aCbHxPZ.jpg)
just have to post this pic also here ;D
(Attachment Link)
just have to post this pic also here ;D
(Attachment Link)
Just the top half, it still needs some work. The bottom half still has a lot of spaces I need to get to.
From this:Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/OdoqShT.jpg)
To this:Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/PmbyIKe.jpg)
Looks great Sleepy! What did you use to remove the paint?
I used this, it has worked really well.Show Image(http://static.pepboys.com/images/productImages/71282100/Aircraft-Paint-Remover-Flexible-Plastic-Aerosol.jpg)
Did you use any other tools to remove the paint, like a paint scraper and such?
After you spray the paint remover, the paint gets a bubbly and is easy to remove. But I used an old box cutter to scrape off the paint. It didn't scratch the metal too much. I used the right end piece in the picture where it is rounded. I'm sure you can use pretty much anything, the paint comes off really easy.Show Image(http://www.boxpartners.com/Images/ProductImages/3603_xl.jpg)
just have to post this pic also here ;D
(Attachment Link)
I am just about done with all the sanding on the case. There are small imperfections but trying to get a brush aluminum look will have those. Now to try to get a clear coat on bare metal. I hope it works!**** this is gonna look awesome! :eek:Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/2aBSbfI.jpg)
I am just about done with all the sanding on the case. There are small imperfections but trying to get a brush aluminum look will have those. Now to try to get a clear coat on bare metal. I hope it works!Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/2aBSbfI.jpg)
I am just about done with all the sanding on the case. There are small imperfections but trying to get a brush aluminum look will have those. Now to try to get a clear coat on bare metal. I hope it works!Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/2aBSbfI.jpg)
Ok, I am probably going to throw in an order to unicomp in the next few days to get keycaps for this thing. I am converting it to a standard layout and I was wondering, how many little stabilizer inserts am I going to need in total?There are two types of inserts; "horizontal" (for backspace, ANSI enter, left ANSI shift, right shift, keypad 0) and "vertical" (for ISO enter, keypad +, keypad enter). "Horizontal" inserts have the hole centered; "vertical" inserts have the hole off-center. You will probably want a total of 4 "horizontal" inserts.
I am ordering the following items, tell me if I am grabbing the right stuff.
101 Pearl/Pebble Set
Large Pearl Spacebar
2 Unprinted Pebble 1x KeysShow Image(http://i.imgur.com/euNviHE.png)
Ok, so I should throw in my order and ask for 4 horizonal stabilizer inserts? I will tell them which keys I am using them on just so they know what I mean. (Backspace, Both Shift Keys, and Enter Key)Ok, I am probably going to throw in an order to unicomp in the next few days to get keycaps for this thing. I am converting it to a standard layout and I was wondering, how many little stabilizer inserts am I going to need in total?There are two types of inserts; "horizontal" (for backspace, ANSI enter, left ANSI shift, right shift, keypad 0) and "vertical" (for ISO enter, keypad +, keypad enter). "Horizontal" inserts have the hole centered; "vertical" inserts have the hole off-center. You will probably want a total of 4 "horizontal" inserts.
I am ordering the following items, tell me if I am grabbing the right stuff.
101 Pearl/Pebble Set
Large Pearl Spacebar
2 Unprinted Pebble 1x KeysShow Image(http://i.imgur.com/euNviHE.png)
And you might want to order some of the GeekHack single unit keys instead of blanks. Or maybe something else off this page:
http://pckeyboard.com/page/category/SBLE (http://pckeyboard.com/page/category/SBLE)
Nice :thumb:Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/TCQNujz.jpg)
This xpost though (http://geekhack.org/index.php?topic=33569.msg1434291#msg1434291)
I am just about done with all the sanding on the case. There are small imperfections but trying to get a brush aluminum look will have those. Now to try to get a clear coat on bare metal. I hope it works!**** this is gonna look awesome! :eek:Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/2aBSbfI.jpg)
I am just about done with all the sanding on the case. There are small imperfections but trying to get a brush aluminum look will have those. Now to try to get a clear coat on bare metal. I hope it works!Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/2aBSbfI.jpg)
Looks fantastic sleepy!
I am just about done with all the sanding on the case. There are small imperfections but trying to get a brush aluminum look will have those. Now to try to get a clear coat on bare metal. I hope it works!Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/2aBSbfI.jpg)
Looks pretty darn good.
Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/TCQNujz.jpg)
This xpost though (http://geekhack.org/index.php?topic=33569.msg1434291#msg1434291)
Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/TCQNujz.jpg)
This xpost though (http://geekhack.org/index.php?topic=33569.msg1434291#msg1434291)
i wet my pants : ' ]
Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/TCQNujz.jpg)
This xpost though (http://geekhack.org/index.php?topic=33569.msg1434291#msg1434291)
Hopefully unicomp can get me replacement keycaps, I think I might have talked to them before and the only thing they couldn't do it have the raised up bottom row keys, they will just be uniform height, which is ok to me.
By that I mean they are taller in the middle than the sides, like a stepped caps lock but on both sides of the cap.Hopefully unicomp can get me replacement keycaps, I think I might have talked to them before and the only thing they couldn't do it have the raised up bottom row keys, they will just be uniform height, which is ok to me.
Are your bottom row keys really a different height? Mine are uniform, but they sit higher than on MX and other boards because of IBM's sweet curved plates.
By that I mean they are taller in the middle than the sides, like a stepped caps lock but on both sides of the cap.
Are your bottom row keys really a different height? Mine are uniform, but they sit higher than on MX and other boards because of IBM's sweet curved plates.
I'm sure some folks here are using new caps and could hook you up. I ordered a new set of caps, but I've decided on using a mix of new and old (pictured in post 169 of this thread). I'll have to check if I have the caps you are looking for.That sounds good, I am okay not having the bottom row being 100% accurate, but if anyone doesn't even want theirs I would gladly take them. I guess I will contact unicomp about a custom printed set today.
anybody got a hint for me for the foam? I tried 2mm 'Moosgummi', but I can't get the 'sandwich' back together.
Or any good tips for putting the sandwich together?
Unicomp quoted me 75 dollars for replacement kishsaver keycaps . . wut, they told me 40 just a couple months ago..
anybody got a hint for me for the foam? I tried 2mm 'Moosgummi', but I can't get the 'sandwich' back together.
Or any good tips for putting the sandwich together?
anybody got a hint for me for the foam? I tried 2mm 'Moosgummi', but I can't get the 'sandwich' back together.
Or any good tips for putting the sandwich together?
Ok I got to take some pictures of the case after the clear coat. It definitely less shine but has a nice feel to it now. Not nearly as smooth but more of a matte feel.Very tasteful case modification. I like that look :thumb: Gives me ideas for my newly acquired XT...
I'm thrilled with how it turned out and hopefully it holds up to use well. I'll put it all together over the weekend and just wait for the controller.
Warning: a bunch of pictures coming up. ^-^Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/pCOjhkA.jpg)Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/RBK2mjN.jpg)Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/pNzuckV.jpg)Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/cZn1ElE.jpg)Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/AWj7SEt.jpg)Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/mFraH6z.jpg)Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/Qo54Wgq.jpg)
Ok I got to take some pictures of the case after the clear coat. It definitely less shine but has a nice feel to it now. Not nearly as smooth but more of a matte feel.
I'm thrilled with how it turned out and hopefully it holds up to use well. I'll put it all together over the weekend and just wait for the controller.
Warning: a bunch of pictures coming up. ^-^Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/pCOjhkA.jpg)Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/RBK2mjN.jpg)Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/pNzuckV.jpg)Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/cZn1ElE.jpg)Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/AWj7SEt.jpg)Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/mFraH6z.jpg)Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/Qo54Wgq.jpg)
Ok I got to take some pictures of the case after the clear coat. It definitely less shine but has a nice feel to it now. Not nearly as smooth but more of a matte feel.Very tasteful case modification. I like that look :thumb: Gives me ideas for my newly acquired XT...
I'm thrilled with how it turned out and hopefully it holds up to use well. I'll put it all together over the weekend and just wait for the controller.
Warning: a bunch of pictures coming up. ^-^
Ok I got to take some pictures of the case after the clear coat. It definitely less shine but has a nice feel to it now. Not nearly as smooth but more of a matte feel.
I'm thrilled with how it turned out and hopefully it holds up to use well. I'll put it all together over the weekend and just wait for the controller.
Warning: a bunch of pictures coming up. ^-^
Wowsers man.. Brushed aluminum? Best case I've ever seen.. :thumb:
BlacKish teaser
(Attachment Link)
more and better pics soon
BlacKish teaser
(Attachment Link)
more and better pics soon
BlacKish teaser
(Attachment Link)
more and better pics soon
Kickass!
Damn dude... Making me want to mosh even more!
*edit: a Kish* Mosh was too good had to leave it. Lol
mmmmmmmmmm:thumb:
circuit pr0n
I don't know if anyone would be interested, or if unicomp would agree. But essentially they are telling me it's $75 for a custom printed setWhat kind of custom printing can they handle? How is the quality? Can you provide a vector design and get them to print it? Lots of the pictures of custom Unicomp keycaps I’ve seen have looked like total garbage. Is that just the fault of the buyer?
I don't know if anyone would be interested, or if unicomp would agree. But essentially they are telling me it's $75 for a custom printed setWhat kind of custom printing can they handle? How is the quality? Can you provide a vector design and get them to print it? Lots of the pictures of custom Unicomp keycaps I’ve seen have looked like total garbage. Is that just the fault of the buyer?
Some of their QA is less than stellar, in my experience. I purchased an APL set, [...] That said, I still love it and I still use it. :)) So it still is a good set. I just think it could be *better*.Do you code in APL, or is this just for fun?
Some of their QA is less than stellar, in my experience. I purchased an APL set, [...] That said, I still love it and I still use it. :)) So it still is a good set. I just think it could be *better*.Do you code in APL, or is this just for fun?
some first impressions of my BlacKish:Show Image(http://abload.de/img/img_033601kmw.jpg)Show Image(http://abload.de/img/img_0329ihkgw.jpg)Show Image(http://abload.de/img/img_03270jj3x.jpg)Show Image(http://abload.de/img/img_0332ixj7m.jpg)Show Image(http://abload.de/img/img_0333t2j07.jpg)Show Image(http://abload.de/img/img_0334xbj7m.jpg)
Ingredients:
- powdercoated RAL 7021 (case and plate)
- new foam
- xwhatsit Model F rev2 controller
- blank black unicomp keycaps
- depth black bs clickclack (finally it has a suitable home)
- wcass spacebar stabilizer
ToDo:
- floss mod
- new usb cable
Big thanks to tinnie, wcass, xwhatsit, monster-toys, and of course cc.
some first impressions of my BlacKish:Show Image(http://abload.de/img/img_033601kmw.jpg)Show Image(http://abload.de/img/img_0329ihkgw.jpg)Show Image(http://abload.de/img/img_03270jj3x.jpg)Show Image(http://abload.de/img/img_0332ixj7m.jpg)Show Image(http://abload.de/img/img_0333t2j07.jpg)Show Image(http://abload.de/img/img_0334xbj7m.jpg)
Ingredients:
- powdercoated RAL 7021 (case and plate)
- new foam
- xwhatsit Model F rev2 controller
- blank black unicomp keycaps
- depth black bs clickclack (finally it has a suitable home)
- wcass spacebar stabilizer
ToDo:
- floss mod
- new usb cable
Big thanks to tinnie, wcass, xwhatsit, monster-toys, and of course cc.
some first impressions of my BlacKish:Show Image(http://abload.de/img/img_033601kmw.jpg)Show Image(http://abload.de/img/img_0329ihkgw.jpg)Show Image(http://abload.de/img/img_03270jj3x.jpg)Show Image(http://abload.de/img/img_0332ixj7m.jpg)Show Image(http://abload.de/img/img_0333t2j07.jpg)Show Image(http://abload.de/img/img_0334xbj7m.jpg)
Ingredients:
- powdercoated RAL 7021 (case and plate)
- new foam
- xwhatsit Model F rev2 controller
- blank black unicomp keycaps
- depth black bs clickclack (finally it has a suitable home)
- wcass spacebar stabilizer
ToDo:
- floss mod
- new usb cable
Big thanks to tinnie, wcass, xwhatsit, monster-toys, and of course cc.
some first impressions of my BlacKish:Show Image(http://abload.de/img/img_033601kmw.jpg)Show Image(http://abload.de/img/img_0329ihkgw.jpg)Show Image(http://abload.de/img/img_03270jj3x.jpg)Show Image(http://abload.de/img/img_0332ixj7m.jpg)Show Image(http://abload.de/img/img_0333t2j07.jpg)Show Image(http://abload.de/img/img_0334xbj7m.jpg)
Ingredients:
- powdercoated RAL 7021 (case and plate)
- new foam
- xwhatsit Model F rev2 controller
- blank black unicomp keycaps
- depth black bs clickclack (finally it has a suitable home)
- wcass spacebar stabilizer
ToDo:
- floss mod
- new usb cable
Big thanks to tinnie, wcass, xwhatsit, monster-toys, and of course cc.
some first impressions of my BlacKish:Show Image(http://abload.de/img/img_033601kmw.jpg)Show Image(http://abload.de/img/img_0329ihkgw.jpg)Show Image(http://abload.de/img/img_03270jj3x.jpg)Show Image(http://abload.de/img/img_0332ixj7m.jpg)Show Image(http://abload.de/img/img_0333t2j07.jpg)Show Image(http://abload.de/img/img_0334xbj7m.jpg)
Ingredients:
- powdercoated RAL 7021 (case and plate)
- new foam
- xwhatsit Model F rev2 controller
- blank black unicomp keycaps
- depth black bs clickclack (finally it has a suitable home)
- wcass spacebar stabilizer
ToDo:
- floss mod
- new usb cable
Big thanks to tinnie, wcass, xwhatsit, monster-toys, and of course cc.
some first impressions of my BlacKish:Show Image(http://abload.de/img/img_033601kmw.jpg)Show Image(http://abload.de/img/img_0329ihkgw.jpg)Show Image(http://abload.de/img/img_03270jj3x.jpg)Show Image(http://abload.de/img/img_0332ixj7m.jpg)Show Image(http://abload.de/img/img_0333t2j07.jpg)Show Image(http://abload.de/img/img_0334xbj7m.jpg)
Ingredients:
- powdercoated RAL 7021 (case and plate)
- new foam
- xwhatsit Model F rev2 controller
- blank black unicomp keycaps
- depth black bs clickclack (finally it has a suitable home)
- wcass spacebar stabilizer
ToDo:
- floss mod
- new usb cable
Big thanks to tinnie, wcass, xwhatsit, monster-toys, and of course cc.
some first impressions of my BlacKish:
BlacKish teaser
(Attachment Link)
more and better pics soon
Kickass!
Damn dude... Making me want to mosh even more!
*edit: a Kish* Mosh was too good had to leave it. Lol
LOL, do you find yourself moshing at the computer quite often, dustin? :P Hehehe
some first impressions of my BlacKish:Show Image(http://abload.de/img/img_033601kmw.jpg)Show Image(http://abload.de/img/img_0329ihkgw.jpg)Show Image(http://abload.de/img/img_03270jj3x.jpg)Show Image(http://abload.de/img/img_0332ixj7m.jpg)Show Image(http://abload.de/img/img_0333t2j07.jpg)Show Image(http://abload.de/img/img_0334xbj7m.jpg)
Ingredients:
- powdercoated RAL 7021 (case and plate)
- new foam
- xwhatsit Model F rev2 controller
- blank black unicomp keycaps
- depth black bs clickclack (finally it has a suitable home)
- wcass spacebar stabilizer
ToDo:
- floss mod
- new usb cable
Big thanks to tinnie, wcass, xwhatsit, monster-toys, and of course cc.
How would one go about acquiring one of these? Loving my Model M SSK, and would like to join the club here :)
How would one go about acquiring one of these? Loving my Model M SSK, and would like to join the club here :)
I was wondering the same thing.. Havent seen them anywhere but here and they go quick..
How would one go about acquiring one of these? Loving my Model M SSK, and would like to join the club here :)
I was wondering the same thing.. Havent seen them anywhere but here and they go quick..
How would one go about acquiring one of these? Loving my Model M SSK, and would like to join the club here :)
I was wondering the same thing.. Havent seen them anywhere but here and they go quick..
The thing is before tinlong found a bunch of them, there weren't supposed to be anymore. Think there were only 4-5 before tinlong's discovery late last year. Some people who were in that wave have sold theirs but there don't seem to be any others outside of the initial group of 4-5 and the tinlong's wave.
The_Beast and I spent a while trying to get a hold of one. Months. At this point though, I believe that only the classifieds will yield a 6019284. Don't think there's any others out there AFAIK.
How would one go about acquiring one of these? Loving my Model M SSK, and would like to join the club here :)
I was wondering the same thing.. Havent seen them anywhere but here and they go quick..
The thing is before tinlong found a bunch of them, there weren't supposed to be anymore. Think there were only 4-5 before tinlong's discovery late last year. Some people who were in that wave have sold theirs but there don't seem to be any others outside of the initial group of 4-5 and the tinlong's wave.
The_Beast and I spent a while trying to get a hold of one. Months. At this point though, I believe that only the classifieds will yield a 6019284. Don't think there's any others out there AFAIK.
Yup, looked months and was willing to pay quite a bit of money. This is my end game board....
If I didn't find one, I had researched into making capacitive PCBs as well as designing a case for it. IE build a 60% capacitive keyboard from scratch
How would one go about acquiring one of these? Loving my Model M SSK, and would like to join the club here :)
I was wondering the same thing.. Havent seen them anywhere but here and they go quick..
The thing is before tinlong found a bunch of them, there weren't supposed to be anymore. Think there were only 4-5 before tinlong's discovery late last year. Some people who were in that wave have sold theirs but there don't seem to be any others outside of the initial group of 4-5 and the tinlong's wave.
The_Beast and I spent a while trying to get a hold of one. Months. At this point though, I believe that only the classifieds will yield a 6019284. Don't think there's any others out there AFAIK.
Yup, looked months and was willing to pay quite a bit of money. This is my end game board....
If I didn't find one, I had researched into making capacitive PCBs as well as designing a case for it. IE build a 60% capacitive keyboard from scratch
...I'ld be happy to help. I've done a bit of capacitive PCB design. I can't help much with a case design/production, though.
If I didn't find one, I had researched into making capacitive PCBs as well as designing a case for it. IE build a 60% capacitive keyboard from scratch
...I'ld be happy to help. I've done a bit of capacitive PCB design. I can't help much with a case design/production, though.
If I didn't find one, I had researched into making capacitive PCBs as well as designing a case for it. IE build a 60% capacitive keyboard from scratch
...I'ld be happy to help. I've done a bit of capacitive PCB design. I can't help much with a case design/production, though.
If I didn't find one, I had researched into making capacitive PCBs as well as designing a case for it. IE build a 60% capacitive keyboard from scratch
I've finally started to get some things done today, getting packages ready and I've still got to get an AT Model F ready for sale. But I did manage to make some time to put this together.
I had a hell of time with the space bar stabilizer, I'm not sure why. :mad:
So bad lighting in the room and I'm not sure if I like it like this. But it's late, so it will have to do. ^-^Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/qJhd5H8.jpg)
I've finally started to get some things done today, getting packages ready and I've still got to get an AT Model F ready for sale. But I did manage to make some time to put this together.
I had a hell of time with the space bar stabilizer, I'm not sure why. :mad:
So bad lighting in the room and I'm not sure if I like it like this. But it's late, so it will have to do. ^-^Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/qJhd5H8.jpg)
Here is a better picture but it's in the shade too. The direct sunlight was too much.Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/8ympSu0.jpg)Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/NGadM7Z.jpg)Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/5MkROnX.jpg)
The Alphas are made from pewter, they are more of a brownish silver color than the case.
Here is a better picture but it's in the shade too. The direct sunlight was too much.Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/8ympSu0.jpg)Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/NGadM7Z.jpg)Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/5MkROnX.jpg)
The Alphas are made from pewter, they are more of a brownish silver color than the case.
Gorgeous board man!! That Checkey really hit the spot. :cool:
Here is a better picture but it's in the shade too. The direct sunlight was too much.Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/8ympSu0.jpg)Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/NGadM7Z.jpg)Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/5MkROnX.jpg)
The Alphas are made from pewter, they are more of a brownish silver color than the case.
Gorgeous board man!! That Checkey really hit the spot. :cool:
I forgot to thank you in this thread but I did in the clack thread! Thanks Dustin! It's never leaving my kish. :)
Here is a better picture but it's in the shade too. The direct sunlight was too much.Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/8ympSu0.jpg)Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/NGadM7Z.jpg)Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/5MkROnX.jpg)
The Alphas are made from pewter, they are more of a brownish silver color than the case.
No more members for this club? Where are all the kishsavers tinnie sold? I know there must be more people out there with a kish! Join us! :D
I'd love to join! Still looking for my first Kishsaver.... :(
Holy smokes! How many did you get, and are you planning to share that wealth? I'd put in a reasonable bid for one.
Can I play too? :pMoreShow Image(http://i.imgur.com/SSbeyK1.jpg)
It livesssssss :))Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/G8R2Sid.jpg)
So I hooked up the buzzer to this keyboard now. My greatest fear now is that it will die some day, it makes the keyboard so much more fun to type on. If for whatever reason it were to randomly die one day, would there be any way of remaking one of these things or what?
Do you mean the little black foot thing that attaches the plate to the pcb/backplate? I bent that down towards the backplate and the buzzer plug went in.So I hooked up the buzzer to this keyboard now. My greatest fear now is that it will die some day, it makes the keyboard so much more fun to type on. If for whatever reason it were to randomly die one day, would there be any way of remaking one of these things or what?
Question! Did the mounting hardware interfere in any way with the position of the six-pin hookup? I can not physically hook up my buzzer to the board. :( Could you post some pics of the internals to show us?
Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/YJDWc2L.jpg)
Tinsaver shot from my latest shoot.
Do you mean the little black foot thing that attaches the plate to the pcb/backplate? I bent that down towards the backplate and the buzzer plug went in.So I hooked up the buzzer to this keyboard now. My greatest fear now is that it will die some day, it makes the keyboard so much more fun to type on. If for whatever reason it were to randomly die one day, would there be any way of remaking one of these things or what?
Question! Did the mounting hardware interfere in any way with the position of the six-pin hookup? I can not physically hook up my buzzer to the board. :( Could you post some pics of the internals to show us?
It seems exactly like how cpt plugged his into the controller. I do not know if he had to bend the little tab as well though.
https://www.flickr.com/photos/cptbadass/15015622565/
https://www.flickr.com/photos/cptbadass/15015260262/
It livesssssss :))Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/G8R2Sid.jpg)
I think so, worse case scenario you can just remove it or turn the volume dial all the way down and not use it. Be aware that you need to move around the wiring on the buzzer so it works on the kishsaver as shown in the manual and this link http://deskthority.net/for-sale-f55/xwhatsit-s-grand-unified-ibm-capsense-usb-controller-thread-t7993-30.html#p163441Do you mean the little black foot thing that attaches the plate to the pcb/backplate? I bent that down towards the backplate and the buzzer plug went in.So I hooked up the buzzer to this keyboard now. My greatest fear now is that it will die some day, it makes the keyboard so much more fun to type on. If for whatever reason it were to randomly die one day, would there be any way of remaking one of these things or what?
Question! Did the mounting hardware interfere in any way with the position of the six-pin hookup? I can not physically hook up my buzzer to the board. :( Could you post some pics of the internals to show us?
It seems exactly like how cpt plugged his into the controller. I do not know if he had to bend the little tab as well though.
https://www.flickr.com/photos/cptbadass/15015622565/
https://www.flickr.com/photos/cptbadass/15015260262/
Thanks. :) I'll take it apart again and see if I can get that fitted in there properly. Because according to you, the buzzer is the coolest thing evar. ;)
It's a little rough right now but hopefully one day it will be completely done. :)It livesssssss :))Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/G8R2Sid.jpg)
consider me jelly ^_^
Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/YJDWc2L.jpg)
Tinsaver shot from my latest shoot.
Whoa, interesting legends man. :)
Yea, I think they're from a model M used at air ports and stuff. The caps are REALLY wore down compared to a fresh unicomp set.
It's a stark contrast to my OG APL, which looks like it's never been typed on.
Yea, I think they're from a model M used at air ports and stuff. The caps are REALLY wore down compared to a fresh unicomp set.
It's a stark contrast to my OG APL, which looks like it's never been typed on.
I've got a set like that. The airport M caps? I actually love them because I like the smoothness of them. My caps live on my SSK.
So I got around to stripping the paint off my Kishsaver, sanding it down, and spraying on a clearcoat. I probably will keep this bare metal look, even with some of deep scratches from the paint chipper and wire brush that I did not bother to remove. It will match all my kitchen appliances:
(Attachment Link) (Attachment Link)
(Attachment Link)
New name for the 107-key: kishspender.
(https://farm3.staticflickr.com/2944/15159170237_777a977b40.jpg) (https://www.flickr.com/photos/cptbadass/sets/72157647589142718/)Show Image(https://farm3.staticflickr.com/2943/15345695975_f9a990fac9.jpg)Show Image(https://farm4.staticflickr.com/3918/15345696925_a7436137a4.jpg)
I’m pretty sure we’re talking about different things here... The 107 key is the one with a 5x2 block on the left, and 5x3 and 5x4 blocks on the right. “Spender” is just the opposite of “saver”, this has nothing to do with cash.New name for the 107-key: kishspender.I am pretty sure that it cost much less making this awesome paint than many people spend on 1 cc.
(https://farm3.staticflickr.com/2944/15159170237_777a977b40.jpg) (https://www.flickr.com/photos/cptbadass/sets/72157647589142718/)Show Image(https://farm3.staticflickr.com/2943/15345695975_f9a990fac9.jpg)Show Image(https://farm4.staticflickr.com/3918/15345696925_a7436137a4.jpg)
/me needs to make some moves and get his saver painted.
Hm, there's too much 6019284 info spread out so maybe someone can help me out. I saw that rindobrot (sp?) on Deskthority got his buzzer working with xwhatsit's controller. Has anyone tried that here? I'd like to get mine working as well.
I'm on mobile, so linking will be hard, but HPE has done this and actually linked me to a great source a few pages back I believe. You need to move a pin position or two on the connector, and then it's a simple setup.
Do you mean the little black foot thing that attaches the plate to the pcb/backplate? I bent that down towards the backplate and the buzzer plug went in.
It seems exactly like how cpt plugged his into the controller. I do not know if he had to bend the little tab as well though.
https://www.flickr.com/photos/cptbadass/15015622565/
https://www.flickr.com/photos/cptbadass/15015260262/
Be aware that you need to move around the wiring on the buzzer so it works on the kishsaver as shown in the manual and this link http://deskthority.net/for-sale-f55/xwhatsit-s-grand-unified-ibm-capsense-usb-controller-thread-t7993-30.html#p163441
LOL. That's amazing. So much beeping.It's so obnoxious in a good way ;)
When is the last time one of these showed up and how much did it go for? I would love to get one, but I don't know how much I would have to pay.
True. Been stalking a couple of threads over at Deskthority that have talked about finding 62 key "loud as hell" keyboards. Hopefully I can grab one of those.When is the last time one of these showed up and how much did it go for? I would love to get one, but I don't know how much I would have to pay.
it'd be a better use of effort to try and FIND a board for sale rather than trying to determine a fair price. but honestly, only a friend would sell you one (if that...).
When is the last time one of these showed up and how much did it go for? I would love to get one, but I don't know how much I would have to pay.
I recorded both without the buzzer on and with it on [...]Now we just need a direct video comparison with a beam spring + solenoid. :-)More
I would love to, unfortunately I do not have one.I recorded both without the buzzer on and with it on [...]Now we just need a direct video comparison with a beam spring + solenoid. :-)More
does the keyboard being flat not tire you out more?Not really, I am not a huge fan of keyboard feet in the first place.
ah, okay. thanks for answering.I am pretty terrible at typing so my opinions are probably not the best. I use my index finger for the spacebar and everything, I just suck. I should have u/HellPirate teach me his ways.
i like the buzzer!
oh OH, you're one of those that doesn't use their thumb huh.
weirdo :P
oh OH, you're one of those that doesn't use their thumb huh.I think hoffman said he doesn't either but I can't ever take him serious ^-^
weirdo :P
oh OH, you're one of those that doesn't use their thumb huh.I think hoffman said he doesn't either but I can't ever take him serious ^-^
weirdo :P
(http://www.reactiongifs.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/05/dr-evil-right.gif)oh OH, you're one of those that doesn't use their thumb huh.I think hoffman said he doesn't either but I can't ever take him serious ^-^
weirdo :P
Whaaaaaa??? I'm totally serious all the time!
oh OH, you're one of those that doesn't use their thumb huh.I think hoffman said he doesn't either but I can't ever take him serious ^-^
weirdo :P
Whaaaaaa??? I'm totally serious all the time!
(http://www.reactiongifs.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/01/dr-evil-crying1.gif)oh OH, you're one of those that doesn't use their thumb huh.I think hoffman said he doesn't either but I can't ever take him serious ^-^
weirdo :P
Whaaaaaa??? I'm totally serious all the time!
You know I love you, HPE... :'(
Why don't you love me back...
(https://farm3.staticflickr.com/2944/15159170237_777a977b40.jpg) (https://www.flickr.com/photos/cptbadass/sets/72157647589142718/)Show Image(https://farm3.staticflickr.com/2943/15345695975_f9a990fac9.jpg)Show Image(https://farm4.staticflickr.com/3918/15345696925_a7436137a4.jpg)
Saw some people on DT were very jelly of this badboy. I do not blame them.
(https://farm3.staticflickr.com/2944/15159170237_777a977b40.jpg) (https://www.flickr.com/photos/cptbadass/sets/72157647589142718/)Show Image(https://farm3.staticflickr.com/2943/15345695975_f9a990fac9.jpg)Show Image(https://farm4.staticflickr.com/3918/15345696925_a7436137a4.jpg)
ah, okay. thanks for answering.
i like the buzzer!
(https://farm3.staticflickr.com/2944/15159170237_777a977b40.jpg) (https://www.flickr.com/photos/cptbadass/sets/72157647589142718/)Show Image(https://farm3.staticflickr.com/2943/15345695975_f9a990fac9.jpg)Show Image(https://farm4.staticflickr.com/3918/15345696925_a7436137a4.jpg)
Saw some people on DT were very jelly of this badboy. I do not blame them.
Yep we are, and it's even in the rotating banners, seen right now again:Show Image(http://www.dubhead.at/media/pics/DT_Header_Kishy.png)
This thread needs more Unix-y keys :Unfortunately you can’t put the right shift in that position on a kishsaver (or any standard Model F); you’ll need a custom plate and PCB if you want that arrangement.Show Image(http://s28.postimg.org/hhp111hsd/BS62.jpg)
Can't see the front function printing on the number row in this image. I also don't have a Kishsaver to put these on. :(
The barrels under the right shift don't align that way.Ah, I guess it would work if the right barrel was a little bit more over to the right?Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/u3abKtVh.jpg)
The barrels under the right shift don't align that way.Ah, I guess it would work if the right barrel was a little bit more over to the right?Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/u3abKtVh.jpg)
I see now, I had just assumed it would have been the same as the left shift right enter key situation where they can easily be spit into 2.The barrels under the right shift don't align that way.Ah, I guess it would work if the right barrel was a little bit more over to the right?Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/u3abKtVh.jpg)
And the left one too. You would need to swap the key size positions. So you can still use those two keys, just swapped.
I see now, I had just assumed it would have been the same as the left shift right enter key situation where they can easily be spit into 2.It can be easily split into two. It's just that the two it splits into push the shift key very far away, or leave you with a 1x1 size shift.
I see now, I had just assumed it would have been the same as the left shift right enter key situation where they can easily be spit into 2.It can be easily split into two. It's just that the two it splits into push the shift key very far away, or leave you with a 1x1 size shift.
This thread is really dangerous for me to keep looking at, a 60% BS is my ideal board. Either I'll make a custom 60% BS or I'll make it my goal to find one of these for sale.
Could try cutting up a model M:
http://geekhack.org/index.php?topic=44875.0
Here were those replacement keycaps that unicomp made for me, if anyone was interested. The printing quality is lower than original ibm keycaps but I am not really complaining, I like them.
Unicomp even did front printing!Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/n2fXpIz.jpg)
Yeah, that doesn't make much sense. Perhaps they are afraid of the upfront cost, and the possibility that they might get stuck with a bunch of remaining sets because people don't stick to it and buy once they are done. They could always collect money upfront though.Here were those replacement keycaps that unicomp made for me, if anyone was interested. The printing quality is lower than original ibm keycaps but I am not really complaining, I like them.
Unicomp even did front printing!Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/n2fXpIz.jpg)
I will never understand Unicomp's business model. An entire custom set for one customer is totally fine, but they won't even entertain the idea of doing custom colors (purple, for example), and it took a really long time to even get RGB options for printing. Oh well.
The set looks stellar! Part of me wants to do what you've done and return it to stock, but I think I'll stick with the layout I've got.
It didn't require any sweet talking or anything. I sent them the model number and a ton of pictures and they were on it. It cost me $80 for the set and they got everything right as far as I can tell.
I wonder if they are more likely to do it if it was actually for a keyboard that others might order sets for as well. As in, they aren't going to bother making some crazy printed set that will take a ton of effort and only one person would ever possibly want it.
It didn't require any sweet talking or anything. I sent them the model number and a ton of pictures and they were on it. It cost me $80 for the set and they got everything right as far as I can tell.
I wonder if they are more likely to do it if it was actually for a keyboard that others might order sets for as well. As in, they aren't going to bother making some crazy printed set that will take a ton of effort and only one person would ever possibly want it.
So what I need to do is alter my photographs of my kishsaver such that the legend color is purple, and then send them the photo, asking them to replicate this totally real and authentic old keyboard keycap set. Got it. :thumb:
It didn't require any sweet talking or anything. I sent them the model number and a ton of pictures and they were on it. It cost me $80 for the set and they got everything right as far as I can tell.
I wonder if they are more likely to do it if it was actually for a keyboard that others might order sets for as well. As in, they aren't going to bother making some crazy printed set that will take a ton of effort and only one person would ever possibly want it.
So what I need to do is alter my photographs of my kishsaver such that the legend color is purple, and then send them the photo, asking them to replicate this totally real and authentic old keyboard keycap set. Got it. :thumb:
They'll just think "If you already have a purple set, why would you need another"
XD that will workIt didn't require any sweet talking or anything. I sent them the model number and a ton of pictures and they were on it. It cost me $80 for the set and they got everything right as far as I can tell.
I wonder if they are more likely to do it if it was actually for a keyboard that others might order sets for as well. As in, they aren't going to bother making some crazy printed set that will take a ton of effort and only one person would ever possibly want it.
So what I need to do is alter my photographs of my kishsaver such that the legend color is purple, and then send them the photo, asking them to replicate this totally real and authentic old keyboard keycap set. Got it. :thumb:
Isn't it beautiful?Where did you get it? :confused:
(Attachment Link)
Isn't it beautiful?Where did you get it? :confused:
(Attachment Link)
Isn't it beautiful?
(Attachment Link)
Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/Jxeh8Nu.jpg)
^-^
Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/Jxeh8Nu.jpg)
^-^
Lurch you got yours working right? I really need one.
Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/Jxeh8Nu.jpg)
^-^
Lurch you got yours working right? I really need one.
Yes sir! I'm making a lot of noise/typing on it now. :p
Installing the controller was a breeze (although still a bit nerve wracking). CPTBadAss' controller swap guide really helped.
Good luck in your search! They are much fun to type on. :)
So I had some time, a polisher and a sand blaster.
A=Sand blasted paint off
B= Paint
C= Polished paint off
D=Polished and sand blastedShow Image(http://i.imgur.com/meFff38.jpg)Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/7JzQBCz.jpg)
Plate blasted tooShow Image(http://i.imgur.com/qLXhnSj.jpg)
Still need to get the paint off without rounding the corners this much :(. I'll just have to get a drill attachmentShow Image(http://i.imgur.com/TMgHLEb.jpg)
I think I'm going to go with the polished and sand blasted with a clear finish top coat
So I had some time, a polisher and a sand blaster.
A=Sand blasted paint off
B= Paint
C= Polished paint off
D=Polished and sand blastedShow Image(http://i.imgur.com/meFff38.jpg)Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/7JzQBCz.jpg)
Plate blasted tooShow Image(http://i.imgur.com/qLXhnSj.jpg)
Still need to get the paint off without rounding the corners this much :(. I'll just have to get a drill attachmentShow Image(http://i.imgur.com/TMgHLEb.jpg)
I think I'm going to go with the polished and sand blasted with a clear finish top coat
I like option D The_Beast.
Do all model Fs have a metal plate or is it only the 4704 boards?
Do all model Fs have a metal plate or is it only the 4704 boards?
All Model Fs have a steel plate and at least a steel bottom plate. They're awesome.
A picture of my kish, needs the micro usb and it will be all good!Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/uQGdGsy.jpg)
A picture of my kish, needs the micro usb and it will be all good!Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/uQGdGsy.jpg)
It took more time to do the A finish since the paint is so thick and the blast media was so fine. It took forever. Then I found a polishing wheel. Took the paint right off WAY FASTER. It would take maybe 3-5 hours to do the back of the tinsaver. It maybe took 45 minutes to get all the paint off, and maybe another 20 to get the surface finished fine enough to sandblast to get a consistent blast finish.
It took more time to do the A finish since the paint is so thick and the blast media was so fine. It took forever. Then I found a polishing wheel. Took the paint right off WAY FASTER. It would take maybe 3-5 hours to do the back of the tinsaver. It maybe took 45 minutes to get all the paint off, and maybe another 20 to get the surface finished fine enough to sandblast to get a consistent blast finish.
why didn't you use some paint remover? that would have saved you a lot of trouble:Show Image(http://tapatalk.imageshack.com/v2/14/10/25/ae3ce686cefe8846456afbc65733dec8.jpg)
nearly no work and paint is falling of the kish within minutes.
It took more time to do the A finish since the paint is so thick and the blast media was so fine. It took forever. Then I found a polishing wheel. Took the paint right off WAY FASTER. It would take maybe 3-5 hours to do the back of the tinsaver. It maybe took 45 minutes to get all the paint off, and maybe another 20 to get the surface finished fine enough to sandblast to get a consistent blast finish.
why didn't you use some paint remover? that would have saved you a lot of trouble:Show Image(http://tapatalk.imageshack.com/v2/14/10/25/ae3ce686cefe8846456afbc65733dec8.jpg)
nearly no work and paint is falling of the kish within minutes.
wish my paint remover had worked at least 1/2 as good as that.
A picture of my kish, needs the micro usb and it will be all good!Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/uQGdGsy.jpg)
60% buckling spring. This looks so amazing! I wish I could get one of these in the future!
any idea how I could remove the dent from one of my kish? or who could do it? auto repair shop?
I don't wanna make it even more worse with a diy-try...Show Image(http://tapatalk.imageshack.com/v2/14/10/25/1b9ac82e0652a753c9e9b7274cca587b.jpg)
I think you've got the right idea with an auto repair shop snoopy
Photoelectric took the board to a machine shop (https://geekhack.org/index.php?topic=49632.msg1077920#msg1077920) and I believe the shop had to use presses to straighten it out. I believe the ano shop was a separate place.
Photoelectric took the board to a machine shop (https://geekhack.org/index.php?topic=49632.msg1077920#msg1077920) and I believe the shop had to use presses to straighten it out. I believe the ano shop was a separate place.
That seems to be the case, thanks! :) That is still one of my favourite restoration projects and gives me hope for any future projects that people might be considering.
Sure. Print this at 100% and see if it is correct. you might need to adjust the scale slightly so that it comes out exactly right (or slightly smaller than exactly right).
(Attachment Link)
Do all model Fs have a metal plate or is it only the 4704 boards?
All Model Fs have a steel plate and at least a steel bottom plate. They're awesome.
Yeah they are, I tried Hoff's and CBA's. I can't get it out of my mind. I've been trying to source one for a few months.
I finished this today:Show Image(http://images.tapatalk-cdn.com/15/05/03/23dc6d7130ad8bda1e5665eda6ee0267.jpg)
apl iso keycaps in combination with terminal m keys. Same powdercoating as on BlacKish.
Less crappy pics soon.
I finished this today:Show Image(http://images.tapatalk-cdn.com/15/05/03/23dc6d7130ad8bda1e5665eda6ee0267.jpg)
apl iso keycaps in combination with terminal m keys. Same powdercoating as on BlacKish.
Less crappy pics soon.
I finished this today:Show Image(http://images.tapatalk-cdn.com/15/05/03/23dc6d7130ad8bda1e5665eda6ee0267.jpg)
apl iso keycaps in combination with terminal m keys. Same powdercoating as on BlacKish.
Less crappy pics soon.
I finished this today:ok this is too nice to be fairShow Image(http://images.tapatalk-cdn.com/15/05/03/23dc6d7130ad8bda1e5665eda6ee0267.jpg)
apl iso keycaps in combination with terminal m keys. Same powdercoating as on BlacKish.
Less crappy pics soon.
I finished this today:Show Image(http://images.tapatalk-cdn.com/15/05/03/23dc6d7130ad8bda1e5665eda6ee0267.jpg)
apl iso keycaps in combination with terminal m keys. Same powdercoating as on BlacKish.
Less crappy pics soon.
Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/wMpunbn.jpg?1)
Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/wMpunbn.jpg?1)
Not real. Does not exist.
Keep telling myself this to keep the jelly away.
Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/wMpunbn.jpg?1)
Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/wMpunbn.jpg?1)
Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/wMpunbn.jpg?1)
Those blue mods look incredible with Enviro!Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/wMpunbn.jpg?1)
I need those mods. :|You're a mod
Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/wMpunbn.jpg?1)
Go Hoosiers.
Best movie ever made!
I forgot to post this in here, but here's my kishsaver that I got a little while agoShow Image(http://i.imgur.com/pv1sWbO.jpg)
I just want some new keycaps for it :)
I forgot to post this in here, but here's my kishsaver that I got a little while agoShow Image(http://i.imgur.com/pv1sWbO.jpg)
I just want some new keycaps for it :)
Wow, so fine. Did you repaint it?
I forgot to post this in here, but here's my kishsaver that I got a little while agoYikes. So nice. Did you do anything to the case to remove paint or was it like that when you got it?Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/pv1sWbO.jpg)
I just want some new keycaps for it :)
I forgot to post this in here, but here's my kishsaver that I got a little while agoYikes. So nice. Did you do anything to the case to remove paint or was it like that when you got it?Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/pv1sWbO.jpg)
I just want some new keycaps for it :)
I forgot to post this in here, but here's my kishsaver that I got a little while agoShow Image(http://i.imgur.com/pv1sWbO.jpg)
I just want some new keycaps for it :)
I forgot to post this in here, but here's my kishsaver that I got a little while agoShow Image(http://i.imgur.com/pv1sWbO.jpg)
I just want some new keycaps for it :)
Last board on my dream KB list, congrats man it looks amazing!
I forgot to post this in here, but here's my kishsaver that I got a little while agoShow Image(http://i.imgur.com/pv1sWbO.jpg)
I just want some new keycaps for it :)
Last board on my dream KB list, congrats man it looks amazing!
thanks mang, hopefully you'll be able to find one as well!
I forgot to post this in here, but here's my kishsaver that I got a little while agoShow Image(http://i.imgur.com/pv1sWbO.jpg)
I just want some new keycaps for it :)
Last board on my dream KB list, congrats man it looks amazing!
thanks mang, hopefully you'll be able to find one as well!
Thanks :) What caps fit? Can't be too easy to find extra caps I suppose..? Colour looks great by the way.
I forgot to post this in here, but here's my kishsaver that I got a little while agoShow Image(http://i.imgur.com/pv1sWbO.jpg)
I just want some new keycaps for it :)
Last board on my dream KB list, congrats man it looks amazing!
thanks mang, hopefully you'll be able to find one as well!
Thanks :) What caps fit? Can't be too easy to find extra caps I suppose..? Colour looks great by the way.
you can order keycaps from unicomp, which I am going to do soon :P
I forgot to post this in here, but here's my kishsaver that I got a little while agoShow Image(http://i.imgur.com/pv1sWbO.jpg)
I just want some new keycaps for it :)
Last board on my dream KB list, congrats man it looks amazing!
thanks mang, hopefully you'll be able to find one as well!
Thanks :) What caps fit? Can't be too easy to find extra caps I suppose..? Colour looks great by the way.
you can order keycaps from unicomp, which I am going to do soon :P
Do you just have to put odd keys in for those couple odd sized keys? I see snoopy went black blank, I was wondering if that was the reason.
Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/LypgKhf.jpg)
Just got this yesterday, and so far I am really enjoying it. It is my first foray into Model F and was surprised at how good it felt.
Overall the board is in pretty good condition, but could use some TLC. I want to refinish it sometime, but am not quite sure what color or how to yet. I have debated paint, powder coat, and cerakote so far.
Also want to split the right shift out for happy layout, but im in no rush for that.
;D
p.s. Sorry for the potato and necro, but I figured we would be seeing some more posts with Ellipse's new project coming up.
Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/LypgKhf.jpg)
Just got this yesterday, and so far I am really enjoying it. It is my first foray into Model F and was surprised at how good it felt.
Overall the board is in pretty good condition, but could use some TLC. I want to refinish it sometime, but am not quite sure what color or how to yet. I have debated paint, powder coat, and cerakote so far.
Also want to split the right shift out for happy layout, but im in no rush for that.
;D
p.s. Sorry for the potato and necro, but I figured we would be seeing some more posts with Ellipse's new project coming up.
Before you get too excited about split shift, you should know that it will be 1u,1.75u instead of 1.75u,1u like the HHKB and other such boards have. Fair warning.
I opted to not split due to this. :-/
That said, modifying the layout is surprisingly easy so go nuts. :D
Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/LypgKhf.jpg)
Just got this yesterday, and so far I am really enjoying it. It is my first foray into Model F and was surprised at how good it felt.
Overall the board is in pretty good condition, but could use some TLC. I want to refinish it sometime, but am not quite sure what color or how to yet. I have debated paint, powder coat, and cerakote so far.
Also want to split the right shift out for happy layout, but im in no rush for that.
;D
p.s. Sorry for the potato and necro, but I figured we would be seeing some more posts with Ellipse's new project coming up.
Before you get too excited about split shift, you should know that it will be 1u,1.75u instead of 1.75u,1u like the HHKB and other such boards have. Fair warning.
I opted to not split due to this. :-/
That said, modifying the layout is surprisingly easy so go nuts. :D
This is the best way to split imo, I wish more board would offer this. Rshift is uselesss 95% of the time anyway.
Take it somewhere to have it put in a metal press
Autobody shops or like a small machine shop should have em. You can also pick 'em up at like Harbor Freight or hardware stores.There's a shop that we contract where I work. I'll swing by and speak with them this week and see if they can do anything with it.
Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/LypgKhf.jpg)
Just got this yesterday, and so far I am really enjoying it. It is my first foray into Model F and was surprised at how good it felt.
Overall the board is in pretty good condition, but could use some TLC. I want to refinish it sometime, but am not quite sure what color or how to yet. I have debated paint, powder coat, and cerakote so far.
Also want to split the right shift out for happy layout, but im in no rush for that.
;D
p.s. Sorry for the potato and necro, but I figured we would be seeing some more posts with Ellipse's new project coming up.
Unicomp blanks arrived today. Still need to pickup dye for the right shift but that should happen this weekend.How do the texture compare to old model M or F caps? Are they on par to the old ones?Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/Kz34G7B.jpg?1)
Of course, inspired by snoopy's amazing blackish.
Unicomp blanks arrived today. Still need to pickup dye for the right shift but that should happen this weekend.Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/Kz34G7B.jpg?1)
Of course, inspired by snoopy's amazing blackish.
2016 resolution: join this club.
2016 resolution: join this club.
You know where to go ;)
2016 resolution: join this club.
You know where to go ;)
Do tell rowdy. Don't hide anything from me.
2016 resolution: join this club.
You know where to go ;)
Do tell rowdy. Don't hide anything from me.
https://geekhack.org/index.php?topic=73363.0
2016 resolution: join this club.Seconded, but I'm fairly sure I said that last year too. :))
2016 resolution: join this club.Seconded, but I'm fairly sure I said that last year too. :))
This old thing. I guess it will be a dime a dozen pretty soon. ^-^Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/tFOFgtc.jpg)
This old thing. I guess it will be a dime a dozen pretty soon. ^-^Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/tFOFgtc.jpg)
This old thing. I guess it will be a dime a dozen pretty soon. ^-^Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/tFOFgtc.jpg)
I don't think$325 for base keyboard with no caps qualifies as "dime a dozen".
This old thing. I guess it will be a dime a dozen pretty soon. ^-^OG Kish > $$$ remake any dayShow Image(http://i.imgur.com/tFOFgtc.jpg)
This old thing. I guess it will be a dime a dozen pretty soon. ^-^OG Kish > $$$ remake any dayShow Image(http://i.imgur.com/tFOFgtc.jpg)
This old thing. I guess it will be a dime a dozen pretty soon. ^-^OG Kish > $$$ remake any dayShow Image(http://i.imgur.com/tFOFgtc.jpg)
This old thing. I guess it will be a dime a dozen pretty soon. ^-^OG Kish > $$$ remake any dayShow Image(http://i.imgur.com/tFOFgtc.jpg)
Bit I won't feel near as bad cutting and hacking up a remake vs an OG.
Also, does anyone know if there was a non4704 50 key with F internals?
This old thing. I guess it will be a dime a dozen pretty soon. ^-^OG Kish > $$$ remake any dayShow Image(http://i.imgur.com/tFOFgtc.jpg)
Bit I won't feel near as bad cutting and hacking up a remake vs an OG.
Also, does anyone know if there was a non4704 50 key with F internals?
I think there were some 50 key ones that looked like it used the model m plastic instead of aluminum.
Edit: Found one on ebay.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/IBM-KEYBOARD-4707-50-KEY-POS-1392560-/172050888228?hash=item280f083624:g:6Q4AAOSwoydWirhK
Hmm this is the one I was thinking about. You can see the inside is clearly a model f.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/49-Key-IBM-Model-M-Keyboard-SDL-to-USB-Soarers-Converter-Remapping-Macros/301402443363?_trksid=p2047675.c100011.m1850&_trkparms=aid%3D222007%26algo%3DSIC.MBE%26ao%3D1%26asc%3D33876%26meid%3D8b9fa2158f2748bb805f70f92d06e331%26pid%3D100011%26rk%3D2%26rkt%3D3%26sd%3D131690249562
Hmm this is the one I was thinking about. You can see the inside is clearly a model f.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/49-Key-IBM-Model-M-Keyboard-SDL-to-USB-Soarers-Converter-Remapping-Macros/301402443363?_trksid=p2047675.c100011.m1850&_trkparms=aid%3D222007%26algo%3DSIC.MBE%26ao%3D1%26asc%3D33876%26meid%3D8b9fa2158f2748bb805f70f92d06e331%26pid%3D100011%26rk%3D2%26rkt%3D3%26sd%3D131690249562
Hmm this is the one I was thinking about. You can see the inside is clearly a model f.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/49-Key-IBM-Model-M-Keyboard-SDL-to-USB-Soarers-Converter-Remapping-Macros/301402443363?_trksid=p2047675.c100011.m1850&_trkparms=aid%3D222007%26algo%3DSIC.MBE%26ao%3D1%26asc%3D33876%26meid%3D8b9fa2158f2748bb805f70f92d06e331%26pid%3D100011%26rk%3D2%26rkt%3D3%26sd%3D131690249562
Thanks for that link, the owner of that account is a member here that I have done business with.
Nice! I've never seen a Model M with "F guts" before.
This old thing. I guess it will be a dime a dozen pretty soon. ^-^OG Kish > $$$ remake any dayShow Image(http://i.imgur.com/tFOFgtc.jpg)
P.S. Anyone know why my smileys aren't working?
P.S. Anyone know why my smileys aren't working?
Because you quoted a pic. :P
P.S. Anyone know why my smileys aren't working?
Because you quoted a pic. :P
Testing Hoff's theory :cool: :confused:
Edit: Confirmed :D
Would it be reasonable to put up a fully built remake with caps for even trade even 1:1 for an original in any complete condition regardless of caps?
Would it be reasonable to put up a fully built remake with caps for even trade even 1:1 for an original in any complete condition regardless of caps?
I wouldn't trade mine for an Ellipse one. I think that project is great but it's not the same board to me.
What I was hoping to trade for would be a basket case that at least has all the functional parts, but in bad shape cosmetically and doesn't have the drive or skill to get built back up again.
got this in the mail today. it'll stay with me til I die and then be passed on to my favorite child. I believe it comes from the same batch of kishsavers that tinlong found a few years ago.Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/gVlAabt.jpg)
it's dated 1986 and little different from most of the kishes I've seen. instead of two screws holding the top and bottom of the case, it has 4, as can be seen in the bottom side pic:Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/iu2LGoL.jpg)
upon opening, we can see that the screws go from the bottom case straight through the plate assembly to the top case. this is different from the other kishes(mainly 1983s) I've seen that have separate internal screws that hold the plate assembly against just the top case and a 3rd set of middle screws that hold the top and bottom together. I personally like the older kish's method of having separate set of screws better, but I also like the fact that the 1986 case is being held together by 4 screws vs just 2.Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/EXDQudN.jpg)Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/MhQGwg0.jpg)
ibm also seemed to have done away with the plastic strips that were sandwiched between the plate assembly and the top case. the plate assembly lies right against the screw threads:Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/nr8s5EB.jpg)
another difference is how thick the walls of the top case are compared to the older kishes:Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/cUyHXA9.jpg)Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/2NXQUzc.jpg)Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/zHbvGaS.jpg)Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/Yo76qWU.jpg)
the difference in thickness can be seen against this picture (from wcass):Show Image(https://geekhack.org/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=52394.0;attach=54569;image)Show Image(https://geekhack.org/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=52394.0;attach=54571;image)
those are the main differences I could see. the paint seems to be in good shape, though there are a couple large chips on the bottom corners. I think I'll give it a good cleaning and keep the original paint for now. the plate has significant corrosion and will be stripped and repainted:Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/s4lYGB5.jpg)
the top plate has a slight curvature that I would like get straightened at machine shop:Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/FAxGCpe.jpg)
if anyone knows any shops in the san jose area that they'd recommend for straightening it out, please let me know!
got this in the mail today. it'll stay with me til I die and then be passed on to my favorite child. I believe it comes from the same batch of kishsavers that tinlong found a few years ago.Very nice man!Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/gVlAabt.jpg)
it's dated 1986 and little different from most of the kishes I've seen. instead of two screws holding the top and bottom of the case, it has 4, as can be seen in the bottom side pic:Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/iu2LGoL.jpg)
upon opening, we can see that the screws go from the bottom case straight through the plate assembly to the top case. this is different from the other kishes(mainly 1983s) I've seen that have separate internal screws that hold the plate assembly against just the top case and a 3rd set of middle screws that hold the top and bottom together. I personally like the older kish's method of having separate set of screws better, but I also like the fact that the 1986 case is being held together by 4 screws vs just 2.Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/EXDQudN.jpg)Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/MhQGwg0.jpg)
ibm also seemed to have done away with the plastic strips that were sandwiched between the plate assembly and the top case. the plate assembly lies right against the screw threads:Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/nr8s5EB.jpg)
another difference is how thick the walls of the top case are compared to the older kishes:Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/cUyHXA9.jpg)Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/2NXQUzc.jpg)Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/zHbvGaS.jpg)Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/Yo76qWU.jpg)
the difference in thickness can be seen against this picture (from wcass):Show Image(https://geekhack.org/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=52394.0;attach=54569;image)Show Image(https://geekhack.org/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=52394.0;attach=54571;image)
those are the main differences I could see. the paint seems to be in good shape, though there are a couple large chips on the bottom corners. I think I'll give it a good cleaning and keep the original paint for now. the plate has significant corrosion and will be stripped and repainted:Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/s4lYGB5.jpg)
the top plate has a slight curvature that I would like get straightened at machine shop:Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/FAxGCpe.jpg)
if anyone knows any shops in the san jose area that they'd recommend for straightening it out, please let me know!
I'm recently using this Kish a lot. (and this club needs a bit more attention)
Combination of ISO APL keycaps, some terminal keycaps and on top Mr. FShow Image(https://i.imgur.com/k4KAkIj.jpg)Show Image(https://i.imgur.com/RBt0jCL.jpg)Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/G4la17c.jpg)Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/mfcXYAU.jpg)
And together with its well known brother:Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/n0WG3Fe.jpg)Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/X2vX1Vg.jpg)Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/qsRPtKx.jpg)Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/VeaWFvl.jpg)
Back in Black:Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/5jjk63P.jpg)
More: https://imgur.com/a/48jd1
got this in the mail today. it'll stay with me til I die and then be passed on to my favorite child. I believe it comes from the same batch of kishsavers that tinlong found a few years ago.Very nice man!Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/gVlAabt.jpg)
it's dated 1986 and little different from most of the kishes I've seen. instead of two screws holding the top and bottom of the case, it has 4, as can be seen in the bottom side pic:Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/iu2LGoL.jpg)
upon opening, we can see that the screws go from the bottom case straight through the plate assembly to the top case. this is different from the other kishes(mainly 1983s) I've seen that have separate internal screws that hold the plate assembly against just the top case and a 3rd set of middle screws that hold the top and bottom together. I personally like the older kish's method of having separate set of screws better, but I also like the fact that the 1986 case is being held together by 4 screws vs just 2.Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/EXDQudN.jpg)Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/MhQGwg0.jpg)
ibm also seemed to have done away with the plastic strips that were sandwiched between the plate assembly and the top case. the plate assembly lies right against the screw threads:Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/nr8s5EB.jpg)
another difference is how thick the walls of the top case are compared to the older kishes:Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/cUyHXA9.jpg)Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/2NXQUzc.jpg)Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/zHbvGaS.jpg)Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/Yo76qWU.jpg)
the difference in thickness can be seen against this picture (from wcass):Show Image(https://geekhack.org/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=52394.0;attach=54569;image)Show Image(https://geekhack.org/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=52394.0;attach=54571;image)
those are the main differences I could see. the paint seems to be in good shape, though there are a couple large chips on the bottom corners. I think I'll give it a good cleaning and keep the original paint for now. the plate has significant corrosion and will be stripped and repainted:Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/s4lYGB5.jpg)
the top plate has a slight curvature that I would like get straightened at machine shop:Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/FAxGCpe.jpg)
if anyone knows any shops in the san jose area that they'd recommend for straightening it out, please let me know!
I'll be powder coating mine soon. Just need to finally settle on a color. I also need to find a cable I'm happy with. The paracord one that the prior owner used with it doesn't do it for me. I do think the original paint looks amazing and wish I found one that still had it. But when it comes to these boards, gotta take what you can get.
got this in the mail today. it'll stay with me til I die and then be passed on to my favorite child. I believe it comes from the same batch of kishsavers that tinlong found a few years ago.Very nice man!Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/gVlAabt.jpg)
it's dated 1986 and little different from most of the kishes I've seen. instead of two screws holding the top and bottom of the case, it has 4, as can be seen in the bottom side pic:Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/iu2LGoL.jpg)
upon opening, we can see that the screws go from the bottom case straight through the plate assembly to the top case. this is different from the other kishes(mainly 1983s) I've seen that have separate internal screws that hold the plate assembly against just the top case and a 3rd set of middle screws that hold the top and bottom together. I personally like the older kish's method of having separate set of screws better, but I also like the fact that the 1986 case is being held together by 4 screws vs just 2.Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/EXDQudN.jpg)Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/MhQGwg0.jpg)
ibm also seemed to have done away with the plastic strips that were sandwiched between the plate assembly and the top case. the plate assembly lies right against the screw threads:Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/nr8s5EB.jpg)
another difference is how thick the walls of the top case are compared to the older kishes:Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/cUyHXA9.jpg)Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/2NXQUzc.jpg)Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/zHbvGaS.jpg)Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/Yo76qWU.jpg)
the difference in thickness can be seen against this picture (from wcass):Show Image(https://geekhack.org/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=52394.0;attach=54569;image)Show Image(https://geekhack.org/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=52394.0;attach=54571;image)
those are the main differences I could see. the paint seems to be in good shape, though there are a couple large chips on the bottom corners. I think I'll give it a good cleaning and keep the original paint for now. the plate has significant corrosion and will be stripped and repainted:Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/s4lYGB5.jpg)
the top plate has a slight curvature that I would like get straightened at machine shop:Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/FAxGCpe.jpg)
if anyone knows any shops in the san jose area that they'd recommend for straightening it out, please let me know!
I'll be powder coating mine soon. Just need to finally settle on a color. I also need to find a cable I'm happy with. The paracord one that the prior owner used with it doesn't do it for me. I do think the original paint looks amazing and wish I found one that still had it. But when it comes to these boards, gotta take what you can get.
did you decide on powdercoating color? I started painting my plate and now am actually tempted to strip the outer paint and powdercoat it also lol.. really breathes new life into them. Also, I saw that your case had a bent edge.. were you able to straighten that out?
Still undecided on the color, but am considering a purple or blue. In terms of the case, I was able to apply some pressure to it and straighten it some. It's not as noticeable as it was, but I still may take into a shop to get it fixed, idk yet.either color would be really interesting to see. I mean... I've seen glittery purple on cptbadass's board but haven't seen any blues yet :) I'm contemplating finding a shop to straightening out some bowing on my case but scared it might crack. glad you were able to straighten it a bit.
Still undecided on the color, but am considering a purple or blue. In terms of the case, I was able to apply some pressure to it and straighten it some. It's not as noticeable as it was, but I still may take into a shop to get it fixed, idk yet.either color would be really interesting to see. I mean... I've seen glittery purple on cptbadass's board but haven't seen any blues yet :) I'm contemplating finding a shop to straightening out some bowing on my case but scared it might crack. glad you were able to straighten it a bit.
Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/Cwtzu7r.jpg)
Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/Cwtzu7r.jpg)
OG apl caps? that kishsaver are too hawt!
Ahh too bad bro, I wish that you could get an OG apl caps somehowShow Image(http://i.imgur.com/Cwtzu7r.jpg)
OG apl caps? that kishsaver are too hawt!
I wish :-[
I'd love some, but for now Unicomp's ****ty variant must suffice. I'd love an OG set however.
Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/Cwtzu7r.jpg)
Got the printed footbar back from my friend, and couldn't be happier. I really don't even know if I will need to sand anything (planned on that from the beginning), but I actually think the slight course texture of the bar will look great once I color match the case for painting. Anyway... just wanted to show the results. I did price this out on Shapeways (just for giggles), and it came in at 42 dollars. They do great work for the money, but helps to have a friend with a printer on hand
finally done reassembling this guy. plain white kishShow Image(http://i.imgur.com/88DMjYU.jpg)
finally done reassembling this guy. plain white kishShow Image(http://i.imgur.com/88DMjYU.jpg)
both the plate and case are powdercoated white.. kinda the opposite of your venerated blackish. won't be getting any blank white keys thoughfinally done reassembling this guy. plain white kishShow Image(http://i.imgur.com/88DMjYU.jpg)
nice kish! Paint or Powdercoat?
both the plate and case are powdercoated white.. kinda the opposite of your venerated blackish. won't be getting any blank white keys thoughfinally done reassembling this guy. plain white kish
nice kish! Paint or Powdercoat?
both the plate and case are powdercoated white.. kinda the opposite of your venerated blackish. won't be getting any blank white keys thoughfinally done reassembling this guy. plain white kish
nice kish! Paint or Powdercoat?
too bad you live on the other side of the earth. A black and white photoshoot would have been awesome :D
Ever thought about blank keys ( in the original beige color schema)? That would give it a even more clean look.
And, if you're into clacks, try to get a hardcore white bs clack. ;D
both the plate and case are powdercoated white.. kinda the opposite of your venerated blackish. won't be getting any blank white keys thoughfinally done reassembling this guy. plain white kish
nice kish! Paint or Powdercoat?
too bad you live on the other side of the earth. A black and white photoshoot would have been awesome :D
Ever thought about blank keys ( in the original beige color schema)? That would give it a even more clean look.
And, if you're into clacks, try to get a hardcore white bs clack. ;D
I have a feeling the only way to possibly get a hardcore white bs clack would be to trade my kish for it.. which would defeat the purpose :p
Might try the brilliant white blanks from unicomp but first a splash of RGBs!Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/DSkeBKF.jpg)Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/3BFfxhu.jpg)
Are your Shifts slightly different shades of green? They look the same, but many sets are slightly different.I thiiink they're pretty close or the same but not 100% sure. tried to take a couple pics:
Are your Shifts slightly different shades of green? They look the same, but many sets are slightly different.I thiiink they're pretty close or the same but not 100% sure. tried to take a couple pics:Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/aMdo9M5.jpg)Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/wEflXFU.jpg)
had issues with the printing on the unicomp keys not being properly aligned though. unicomp replaced the keys for free but even the replacements were not aligned so I just gave up. you can see how the right control and left Alt is below center and the right Alt above centerShow Image(http://i.imgur.com/Q5uwP3S.jpg)
Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/XuSc14V.jpg)
Last time you will see the case looking like this :D
Still have a good bit if work I want to do before I reassemble everything, hopefully I'll have the updated pics by next weekend.
Stay tuned. ;)Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/XuSc14V.jpg)
Last time you will see the case looking like this :D
Still have a good bit if work I want to do before I reassemble everything, hopefully I'll have the updated pics by next weekend.
WHAT COLOR?!
Stay tuned. ;)Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/XuSc14V.jpg)
Last time you will see the case looking like this :D
Still have a good bit if work I want to do before I reassemble everything, hopefully I'll have the updated pics by next weekend.
WHAT COLOR?!
Picked it up last week from the powder coaters, and have to say I was blown away by the work they did on it. Really happy with how it turned out. Still need to sort the right shift out, but once that is done I will post up a full board pic.
I made the cable using a black cherry cable (big thanks to nickheller). I didn't want to shrink wrap the ends, so the thick insulation proved to be a headache when using the molded connectors.
Next up I want to repaint the plate, and replace the inner foam. I don't think that there is any issue with the foam, but I figure might as well when I have it apart.Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/yJBHURz.jpg)
obviously, snoopy's blackish was a huge inspiration.
Picked it up last week from the powder coaters, and have to say I was blown away by the work they did on it. Really happy with how it turned out. Still need to sort the right shift out, but once that is done I will post up a full board pic.
I made the cable using a black cherry cable (big thanks to nickheller). I didn't want to shrink wrap the ends, so the thick insulation proved to be a headache when using the molded connectors.
Next up I want to repaint the plate, and replace the inner foam. I don't think that there is any issue with the foam, but I figure might as well when I have it apart.Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/yJBHURz.jpg)
obviously, snoopy's blackish was a huge inspiration.
Picked it up last week from the powder coaters, and have to say I was blown away by the work they did on it. Really happy with how it turned out. Still need to sort the right shift out, but once that is done I will post up a full board pic.
I made the cable using a black cherry cable (big thanks to nickheller). I didn't want to shrink wrap the ends, so the thick insulation proved to be a headache when using the molded connectors.
Next up I want to repaint the plate, and replace the inner foam. I don't think that there is any issue with the foam, but I figure might as well when I have it apart.Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/yJBHURz.jpg)
obviously, snoopy's blackish was a huge inspiration.
Thanks everyone. Here are some more pics. Turns out my dye job didnt go as poorly as I had thought originally. The color isnt perfect, but it is pretty close.Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/C4YEtxd.jpg)
Finally got oneNice get! Is that sleepy's?Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/vRTC3H0.jpg)
Dry run assembly. Anyone know if this connector is physically compatible with a VGA socket?
No, I got it from Techno TrousersFinally got oneNice get! Is that sleepy's?Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/vRTC3H0.jpg)
Dry run assembly. Anyone know if this connector is physically compatible with a VGA socket?
Finally got oneShow Image(http://i.imgur.com/vRTC3H0.jpg)
Dry run assembly. Anyone know if this connector is physically compatible with a VGA socket?
Picked it up last week from the powder coaters, and have to say I was blown away by the work they did on it. Really happy with how it turned out. Still need to sort the right shift out, but once that is done I will post up a full board pic.
I made the cable using a black cherry cable (big thanks to nickheller). I didn't want to shrink wrap the ends, so the thick insulation proved to be a headache when using the molded connectors.
Next up I want to repaint the plate, and replace the inner foam. I don't think that there is any issue with the foam, but I figure might as well when I have it apart.Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/yJBHURz.jpg)
obviously, snoopy's blackish was a huge inspiration.
Damn you guys just seem to want me to spend all my money. How much does it cost to get in the kish club? Im looking for an all original one, doesnt have to be perfecct.
Im pretty patient, Im just waiting on the day someone finds boxes and boxes of f77s and kishsavers in the back room of a bank :)) But seriously, Im sure someone has a kish they would sell me.Damn you guys just seem to want me to spend all my money. How much does it cost to get in the kish club? Im looking for an all original one, doesnt have to be perfecct.
Money shouldn't be your concern as much as finding someone who's willing to let one go, I think.
Im pretty patient, Im just waiting on the day someone finds boxes and boxes of f77s and kishsavers in the back room of a bank :)) But seriously, Im sure someone has a kish they would sell me.Damn you guys just seem to want me to spend all my money. How much does it cost to get in the kish club? Im looking for an all original one, doesnt have to be perfecct.
Money shouldn't be your concern as much as finding someone who's willing to let one go, I think.
How about a beat up one missing caps? I dont care what it looks like, I will fix it up.Im pretty patient, Im just waiting on the day someone finds boxes and boxes of f77s and kishsavers in the back room of a bank :)) But seriously, Im sure someone has a kish they would sell me.Damn you guys just seem to want me to spend all my money. How much does it cost to get in the kish club? Im looking for an all original one, doesnt have to be perfecct.
Money shouldn't be your concern as much as finding someone who's willing to let one go, I think.
I just got mine a couple weeks ago for $375 with shipping. This seems to be about the lower end of the average going rate for a complete one. A couple years ago there was a box of 29 (if I remember right) but a good number of them had missing caps, scratches, debts, or very dirty. Cleaned up they do fetch a premium.
That I couldn't tell you. I didn't really look long. Just posted serious interest, asked a couple questions, and I got pmed with an offer. But I have been a member of this community for a long time.How about a beat up one missing caps? I dont care what it looks like, I will fix it up.Im pretty patient, Im just waiting on the day someone finds boxes and boxes of f77s and kishsavers in the back room of a bank :)) But seriously, Im sure someone has a kish they would sell me.Damn you guys just seem to want me to spend all my money. How much does it cost to get in the kish club? Im looking for an all original one, doesnt have to be perfecct.
Money shouldn't be your concern as much as finding someone who's willing to let one go, I think.
I just got mine a couple weeks ago for $375 with shipping. This seems to be about the lower end of the average going rate for a complete one. A couple years ago there was a box of 29 (if I remember right) but a good number of them had missing caps, scratches, debts, or very dirty. Cleaned up they do fetch a premium.
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How about a beat up one missing caps? I dont care what it looks like, I will fix it up.Im pretty patient, Im just waiting on the day someone finds boxes and boxes of f77s and kishsavers in the back room of a bank :)) But seriously, Im sure someone has a kish they would sell me.Damn you guys just seem to want me to spend all my money. How much does it cost to get in the kish club? Im looking for an all original one, doesnt have to be perfecct.
Money shouldn't be your concern as much as finding someone who's willing to let one go, I think.
I just got mine a couple weeks ago for $375 with shipping. This seems to be about the lower end of the average going rate for a complete one. A couple years ago there was a box of 29 (if I remember right) but a good number of them had missing caps, scratches, debts, or very dirty. Cleaned up they do fetch a premium.
Im just waiting for the next lot of them to be discovered. Im sure theres a ton more out there that havent been found yet.
We need to get an abandoned building exploration crew going :))Im just waiting for the next lot of them to be discovered. Im sure theres a ton more out there that havent been found yet.
That would be really interesting, Abandoned office building or warehouses are exciting.
Im just waiting for the next lot of them to be discovered. Im sure theres a ton more out there that havent been found yet.
resurrecting this glorious thread
found a nice carrying case this week:
https://www.casematix.com/product/casematix-scout/
the dimensions are almost perfect for the kishsaver with very little modding of the internal foam needed (it comes mostly pre-cut).
from the outside:Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/7xyorjR.jpg)
sitting in the case:Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/KXvLUEg.jpg)
internal foam:Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/itTxZ0m.jpg)
the corner with less foam is to put the wire-organizer-thingy:Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/cwThw98.jpg)
I can plug the kishsaver in directly, but prefer using this usb-a to mini adapter so it's easier to swap keyboards.Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/3K5CbZj.jpg)
highly recommend this case :thumb:
Very nice setup man! That kish is in beautiful condition!thanks!
resurrecting this glorious thread
found a nice carrying case this week:
https://www.casematix.com/product/casematix-scout/
the dimensions are almost perfect for the kishsaver with very little modding of the internal foam needed (it comes mostly pre-cut).
from the outside:Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/7xyorjR.jpg)
sitting in the case:Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/KXvLUEg.jpg)
internal foam:Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/itTxZ0m.jpg)
the corner with less foam is to put the wire-organizer-thingy:Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/cwThw98.jpg)
I can plug the kishsaver in directly, but prefer using this usb-a to mini adapter so it's easier to swap keyboards.Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/3K5CbZj.jpg)
highly recommend this case :thumb:
why the hell would you want to take that around with you? too heavy?
get an hhkb, light and it has the layout you're copying
Regardless kish > hhkb all day err day
resurrecting this glorious thread(https://secure.static.tumblr.com/b9494f6b003709022b73c0dd23134470/yogoawo/Xamo3w53d/tumblr_static_tumblr_static_ew70mzonk3s4gkg4s4o8skg0s_640.gif)
found a nice carrying case this week:
https://www.casematix.com/product/casematix-scout/
the dimensions are almost perfect for the kishsaver with very little modding of the internal foam needed (it comes mostly pre-cut).
from the outside:Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/7xyorjR.jpg)
sitting in the case:Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/KXvLUEg.jpg)
internal foam:Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/itTxZ0m.jpg)
the corner with less foam is to put the wire-organizer-thingy:Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/cwThw98.jpg)
I can plug the kishsaver in directly, but prefer using this usb-a to mini adapter so it's easier to swap keyboards.Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/3K5CbZj.jpg)
highly recommend this case :thumb:
from a forum member? or did you find one?
You can buy new one from https://www.modelfkeyboards.com/product/f62-model-f-keyboard-kishsaver.
Is it any good?
You can buy new one from https://www.modelfkeyboards.com/product/f62-model-f-keyboard-kishsaver.
Is it any good?
Stainless Cerakote:Show Image(https://i.imgur.com/xGA3UCj.jpg)
Thanks sleepy!Stainless Cerakote:Show Image(https://i.imgur.com/xGA3UCj.jpg)
They must have sent it your place by mistake, please pm me for my address. ^-^
Beautiful color! :) ;)
Stainless Cerakote:Show Image(https://i.imgur.com/xGA3UCj.jpg)
Stainless Cerakote:Show Image(https://i.imgur.com/xGA3UCj.jpg)
Stainless Cerakote:Show Image(https://i.imgur.com/xGA3UCj.jpg)
is that a cable tie or some wireless solution?thanks. it's just a cable tie
The case color looks really good
thanks all! sorry it took awhile to get the plate cerakoted, finally managed to assemble and snap some pics today.
case cerakote color is Stainless H-152Q and plate is Graphite Black C-102QShow Image(https://i.imgur.com/2MYji3v.jpg)Show Image(https://i.imgur.com/8P1QLw0.jpg)Show Image(https://i.imgur.com/bNGR3LC.jpg)Show Image(https://i.imgur.com/AK70HaG.jpg)Show Image(https://i.imgur.com/9Up89Yw.jpg)Show Image(https://i.imgur.com/dkF4Rnx.jpg)Show Image(https://i.imgur.com/OTKU6iC.jpg)Show Image(https://i.imgur.com/L4vE3YJ.jpg)
Time to share my most recent acquisition. I am extremely grateful to be able to have a new one after having to sell the blackish a year and a half ago.
The case is in very good condition, and I think I will be keeping the original paint on it. Very minor chips and scratches on it, but i love the character it has. Some of the keycaps are damaged, but I plan to keep as many of the original keys as possible. Moving forward I plan to convert it to USB and change it over to happy layout. While I have it apart I will probably repaint the plate since I assume there are issues without even looking.
On to the pictures.Show Image(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4621/25034598657_c889458590_h.jpg)Show Image(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4759/39906230011_0b96bbd2eb_h.jpg)Show Image(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4649/28125866249_f1f2679293_h.jpg)Show Image(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4769/28125872199_d5948e3d07_h.jpg)Show Image(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4652/28125878699_0d5b40b6ab_h.jpg)Show Image(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4761/25034600747_4d817bb4d0_h.jpg)Show Image(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4626/25034601597_7a45aeef3e_h.jpg)
Here is one issue ive noticed, but unsure if i will do much beyond trying to straighten by hand. My concern with taking it to be straightened would be damage to the paint.Show Image(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4745/25034596357_60270c484e_h.jpg)
Time to share my most recent acquisition. I am extremely grateful to be able to have a new one after having to sell the blackish a year and a half ago.too sexy
The case is in very good condition, and I think I will be keeping the original paint on it. Very minor chips and scratches on it, but i love the character it has. Some of the keycaps are damaged, but I plan to keep as many of the original keys as possible. Moving forward I plan to convert it to USB and change it over to happy layout. While I have it apart I will probably repaint the plate since I assume there are issues without even looking.
On to the pictures.Show Image(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4621/25034598657_c889458590_h.jpg)Show Image(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4759/39906230011_0b96bbd2eb_h.jpg)Show Image(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4649/28125866249_f1f2679293_h.jpg)Show Image(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4769/28125872199_d5948e3d07_h.jpg)Show Image(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4652/28125878699_0d5b40b6ab_h.jpg)Show Image(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4761/25034600747_4d817bb4d0_h.jpg)Show Image(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4626/25034601597_7a45aeef3e_h.jpg)
Here is one issue ive noticed, but unsure if i will do much beyond trying to straighten by hand. My concern with taking it to be straightened would be damage to the paint.Show Image(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4745/25034596357_60270c484e_h.jpg)
Time to share my most recent acquisition. I am extremely grateful to be able to have a new one after having to sell the blackish a year and a half ago.
The case is in very good condition, and I think I will be keeping the original paint on it. Very minor chips and scratches on it, but i love the character it has. Some of the keycaps are damaged, but I plan to keep as many of the original keys as possible. Moving forward I plan to convert it to USB and change it over to happy layout. While I have it apart I will probably repaint the plate since I assume there are issues without even looking.
On to the pictures.Show Image(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4621/25034598657_c889458590_h.jpg)Show Image(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4759/39906230011_0b96bbd2eb_h.jpg)Show Image(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4649/28125866249_f1f2679293_h.jpg)Show Image(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4769/28125872199_d5948e3d07_h.jpg)Show Image(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4652/28125878699_0d5b40b6ab_h.jpg)Show Image(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4761/25034600747_4d817bb4d0_h.jpg)Show Image(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4626/25034601597_7a45aeef3e_h.jpg)
Here is one issue ive noticed, but unsure if i will do much beyond trying to straighten by hand. My concern with taking it to be straightened would be damage to the paint.Show Image(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4745/25034596357_60270c484e_h.jpg)
Time to share my most recent acquisition. I am extremely grateful to be able to have a new one after having to sell the blackish a year and a half ago.
The case is in very good condition, and I think I will be keeping the original paint on it. Very minor chips and scratches on it, but i love the character it has. Some of the keycaps are damaged, but I plan to keep as many of the original keys as possible. Moving forward I plan to convert it to USB and change it over to happy layout. While I have it apart I will probably repaint the plate since I assume there are issues without even looking.
On to the pictures.Show Image(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4621/25034598657_c889458590_h.jpg)Show Image(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4759/39906230011_0b96bbd2eb_h.jpg)Show Image(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4649/28125866249_f1f2679293_h.jpg)Show Image(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4769/28125872199_d5948e3d07_h.jpg)Show Image(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4652/28125878699_0d5b40b6ab_h.jpg)Show Image(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4761/25034600747_4d817bb4d0_h.jpg)Show Image(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4626/25034601597_7a45aeef3e_h.jpg)
Here is one issue ive noticed, but unsure if i will do much beyond trying to straighten by hand. My concern with taking it to be straightened would be damage to the paint.Show Image(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4745/25034596357_60270c484e_h.jpg)
Time to share my most recent acquisition. I am extremely grateful to be able to have a new one after having to sell the blackish a year and a half ago.
The case is in very good condition, and I think I will be keeping the original paint on it. Very minor chips and scratches on it, but i love the character it has. Some of the keycaps are damaged, but I plan to keep as many of the original keys as possible. Moving forward I plan to convert it to USB and change it over to happy layout. While I have it apart I will probably repaint the plate since I assume there are issues without even looking.
On to the pictures.Show Image(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4621/25034598657_c889458590_h.jpg)Show Image(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4759/39906230011_0b96bbd2eb_h.jpg)Show Image(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4649/28125866249_f1f2679293_h.jpg)Show Image(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4769/28125872199_d5948e3d07_h.jpg)Show Image(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4652/28125878699_0d5b40b6ab_h.jpg)Show Image(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4761/25034600747_4d817bb4d0_h.jpg)Show Image(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4626/25034601597_7a45aeef3e_h.jpg)
Here is one issue ive noticed, but unsure if i will do much beyond trying to straighten by hand. My concern with taking it to be straightened would be damage to the paint.Show Image(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4745/25034596357_60270c484e_h.jpg)
Awesome get! My F107 has a similar bend in its case, it's something I'd like to fix but as you mentioned, I worry about the paint. If you do end up trying to fix it I'd be interested to hear how it goes.
I have had my eye on one of these for years. What is the best way of going about getting one?
hey! kinda new to keyboards but im hoping to eventually build a grail board and i LOVE the look of kishsaver cases.
so... this is probably a very stupid question, has anyone purchased a case from model f keyboards and then used a different pcb and mx style switches? i love the sound of holy pandas and purchased some of those so was wondering if they would work in this case?
apologies if i messed up any of the terms or anything, new to this. Also if anyone has any tips for doing this or has done this before, all info or help would be much appreciated!
Heh I ****ing regretted selling all of them for so cheap.