Rodent Mark II

[damorgue]

I now have both a Performance MX and a MX Revolution. The Revolutions does indeed have a electronically engaged bump mechanism for the scroll wheel which allows for free spins through the use of a solenoid. It sounds like the shutter of a camera when it is engaged. The Performance MX has a far simpler mechanical bump mechanism which is engaged directly by a button, is far cheaper and frankly, the Revolution's way of solving it is a bit over the top.

I like over the top and it will be easier to adopt as well.

[damorgue]

Project was delayed by other projects, but is now moving along again.

Model can be seen here in a nifty little tool. A few parts which have been added are missing from it; the mount for the scroll mechanism, the holder for the sensor and pcb,  the mount for right and left mouse switch and the separate buttons.

On another note, I have some old sculpted metal caps which I never intended to sell which I might sell in a fundraiser for this and a few other of my projects.

[damorgue]

Discussion regarding the left and right mouse buttons
I am still a bit undecided which type of cut to use and whether to have them as separate parts or as a part of the hull.

The above left image depicts a few examples of how the cut can be made. The red left part is the button which is pressed downwards.  I originally began by having the buttons as part of a hull with a angled cut, as shown second from the top. I did this to avoid being able to see directly into the mouse as easily. At the right angle, once can still see in however, and when the button is pressed the gap widens. I then moved onto the third type of cut, where the slit appears to be the same size as the button is pressed, and where you can't see in. It is good, but as dirt and grit gets to the slit, it will be collected and might eventually cause problems. The upper right image shows this slit type implemented to give a sense of context. The gap can be increased as shown in the fourth example if the mouse button is allowed to be a bit thicker locally around the slit.

The fifth example is actually the best by far for a few reasons. At first, I wanted to avoid the risk that the button would stop at the case before activating the switch. If done correctly however, it provides durability since the switch won't have to take all of the load if the button is pressed hard. A small indentation also traps dirt and prevents it to enter the gap to some extent. I think I might go with that one. The final question is the whether the button slit should be U- shaped or O shaped, ie will the button be a part of the hull or a separate part mounted to the hull. Ideas?

[imp]

1. Too easy .
2. option might reward you with some "sharp" edges while pressing the buttons, besides this, I would prefer it. It allows the easy travel down and not cause addition friction compared to the first option (which might have the sides sliding against each other if some wrapping occurs).
3. & 4. might cause the button to jam if shifted to the side, so it wont release instant - but this won't be a problem if you make both thicker around the cut. Also might be heavy to clean if needed.
5. You'll be unable to clean the cut, you cannot slip some paper in there to catch the dirt - or you have to lift the button, dunno if the material allows that much flex.

U or O? Going for the O also asks for an smooth and low frictional guiding of the "keycap". The U should be easier since it's attached to the mouse itself, only needing a thinner part before the switch starts - but this will also give you the possibility to add some extra force for pressing the switch.

[damorgue]

I made a tool to help visualise problems during manufacturing and to reveal points of failure to complement the regular wall thickness, maximum angle, non-manifold etc tools.

I found it soothing and harmonious so I added a soundtrack to it

[damorgue]

1. Too easy .
2. option might reward you with some "sharp" edges while pressing the buttons, besides this, I would prefer it. It allows the easy travel down and not cause addition friction compared to the first option (which might have the sides sliding against each other if some wrapping occurs).
3. & 4. might cause the button to jam if shifted to the side, so it wont release instant - but this won't be a problem if you make both thicker around the cut. Also might be heavy to clean if needed.
5. You'll be unable to clean the cut, you cannot slip some paper in there to catch the dirt - or you have to lift the button, dunno if the material allows that much flex.

Hmm. I dislike 2 simply because the gap becomes quite a bit wider when the button is pressed, and it does not provide any sort of stop except the switch and its holder. If I press it hard enough something will break. I have seen mice like this, but I would much prefer a solution where it stops at the hull and the hull can withstand the full force. The only problem then is that it has to have activated the switch, so the tolerances are quite tight. On the other hand, since the switch doesn't have to withstand large forces, it is easier to enable it to be adjusted in position slightly. The issue you mentioned with 5 is solved if I choose to have the button as a separate removable part.

U or O? Going for the O also asks for an smooth and low frictional guiding of the "keycap".

With the O, I would put a flange on it and attach it on the inside of the hull. This flange could have ribs to guide the bending of it in a certain direction a little. With the U, I am forced to let it bend largely according to the shape of the hull, although I can affect it a little by where I end the slits and such.

[damorgue]

Small update, looking for a new sensor. I want a good optical one without angle snapping, acceleration, prediciton or smoothing. I have gotten accustomed to the crisp feeling ones and all lasers and most optical just feel weird.

Does anyone know where I can find this or will I have to butcher a mouse and recycle its guts again. The first mouse I made just used a crappy mouse I found, this time I will do it properly.