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Some questions I have about making my first keyboard

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CrazyC316:
I've been interested in mechanical keyboards for the past few years and I recently got my hands on a soldering iron and want to make a 60% size mechanical keyboard.

I have never looked into the process and parts needed into building a keyboard until recently and have some questions that I can't find the answers for online (their probably there but I can't find them myself)

1. what are the different sizes (40%, 60%, and full size (or more if there are any more) in mesurements? are they always the same size or could you get 2 60% parts that are different sizes?
2. where are the best places to buy the parts I need (PCB, case, smaller sizes shift key, etc.)?
3. what dose it mean to change around a 60% keyboard to allow dedicated arrow keys? I keep seeing that the PCB can be modified to make room for dedicated arrow keys but what dose that actually entail?
4. how can I tell what  USB port the keyboard will take when finished? is it determined by the PCB or another part?
5. since its my first time making a keyboard and using a soldering iron before i imagine that im gonna mess something up when building it and will need to buy the broken part/s again, is it cheaper to buy the pieces for a 40% keyboard compared to a 60% or a full sized one?
6. is there any notable differences between making a 60% size keyboard to a 40% or full sized keyboard? if there is are they major enough that I would need to learn something new?

thanks for the help I appreciate it :p
-CrazyC316

geauxflying:

--- Quote from: CrazyC316 on Mon, 26 July 2021, 20:40:06 ---I've been interested in mechanical keyboards for the past few years and I recently got my hands on a soldering iron and want to make a 60% size mechanical keyboard.

I have never looked into the process and parts needed into building a keyboard until recently and have some questions that I can't find the answers for online (their probably there but I can't find them myself)

1. what are the different sizes (40%, 60%, and full size (or more if there are any more) in mesurements? are they always the same size or could you get 2 60% parts that are different sizes?
2. where are the best places to buy the parts I need (PCB, case, smaller sizes shift key, etc.)?
3. what dose it mean to change around a 60% keyboard to allow dedicated arrow keys? I keep seeing that the PCB can be modified to make room for dedicated arrow keys but what dose that actually entail?
4. how can I tell what  USB port the keyboard will take when finished? is it determined by the PCB or another part?
5. since its my first time making a keyboard and using a soldering iron before i imagine that im gonna mess something up when building it and will need to buy the broken part/s again, is it cheaper to buy the pieces for a 40% keyboard compared to a 60% or a full sized one?
6. is there any notable differences between making a 60% size keyboard to a 40% or full sized keyboard? if there is are they major enough that I would need to learn something new?

thanks for the help I appreciate it :p
-CrazyC316

--- End quote ---

1. Search for the article from Switch and Click on keyboard sizes. They do a good job laying it out. The sizes aren’t 100% standardized (not all 65% boards are exactly the same), but you’ll get the idea. Switch sizes are standardized, so an MX-style switch will fit most PCBs and plates.

2. Probably best to get a kit all together from the same source. If you get a case for a particular model of keyboard, you’ll generally need the PCB and plate for THAT particular model of keyboard.

3. IDK, I wouldn’t buy anything smaller than a 65%, personally.

4. Look at the usb connection. It’s probably USB-C, but if you just look at it, it’s pretty obvious based on the shape.

5. Soldering isn’t that hard, watch some YouTube videos on it.

6. You do the same stuff to build a bigger keyboard, you just do it more times.

Leslieann:
1. Switch sizes are not the same. Alps and low profile will not fit MX and if you plan to solder using a universal plate, Outemu and Kailh use a different housing system that will not allow them to open on Universal plates. Universal plates allow yo to remove the switch top without desoldering the switch for either maintenance or changing out the guts.

2,. I agree with the above on getting a kit, sort of. Most case/pcb/plates are designed as a unit, it's pretty much only 60% that has some interchangable parts. Some. If you want to mix and match you need to be careful even on 60%. Pretty much everything else is a unit and fits nothing else.  Check KBDfans, mechanicalkeyboards.com and krepublic.

3. If you have never used a smaller keyboard before, go cheap. No sense in blowing $300 (or a LOT more) on keyboard only to find you hate it. Experiment with sizes, layouts and switches before you buy a higher end board. Plus cheap ones make great learning tools, buy a cheap as dirt 60% and when tired of it desolder it and try to rebuild it. Worst case you're out only a little money. Soldering is easy compared to desoldering. Soldering is easy once you know how but people can really mess things up. It's easy to forget how it was when learning and using shoddy equipment.

4. the board should specify the USB or show it.

5. If you're determined to solder, get a kit from someone who offers replacement PCBs. While most mistakes can be fixed, keyboards are actually pretty simple, there comes a point when it's just not worth fixing or beyond your ability to fix even with online help and your only real option is send it out or buy another.

6. The difference is extra keys. Do you use lots of arrow keys, you're either going to want to get a board with them or be prepared to learn lots of layers. If you type well, a smaller keyboard may work, if you make lots of mistakes and spend lots of time correcting you will want at least a 65%. Hate change? Don't go small. Bigger costs more, you need more switches, more stabs, more caps more material.

Again, don't go doing a full custom without having tried the layout first, you're just wasting money.

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