Author Topic: [GB] Canoe by Percent Studios  (Read 52109 times)

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Online eyedrop

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Re: [GB] Canoe by Percent Studios
« Reply #500 on: Fri, 01 June 2018, 22:05:58 »



Please be prepared to wait at least 3 months +-


Thanks, beamingrobot. Patience will be rewarded with a Canoe.

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Offline bard

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Re: [GB] Canoe by Percent Studios
« Reply #501 on: Sat, 02 June 2018, 09:53:36 »
Alright everyone's gotta chill. R2 is still in production so we've gotta wait for that to complete, and then it'll be sent to me and only then I can put it up. Gform will come in the next few weeks, and once you're on the mailing list I'll give ample heads up and time before it goes up for sale.

Please be prepared to wait at least 3 months +-



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by mailing list do you mean a list on monokei.us ?

Offline regionfree

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Re: [GB] Canoe by Percent Studios
« Reply #502 on: Sun, 03 June 2018, 05:11:24 »
just finished building mine today and the entire home row isn't registering any key. i didn't really test the pcb before the build, but the soldering is clean. could this be fixed with a firmware update? if so, could someone share the firmware for this? thanks.
[/u/magicpretzel] hhkb, fc660c, rf87u, kira80, kira75, kira60, kn2.10 hhkb, tx60 hhkb, tx60, tx84se, norbatouch, canoe (not the boat), klippe x2, minivan, retro60, 5*, revo f*cking hhkb, incoming -- norbaforce x2, e6-v2, qxp x2, king|namo, kn2.10 standard, tofu x2, alf dc60 x2, singa r2, x60-r

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Re: [GB] Canoe by Percent Studios
« Reply #503 on: Sun, 03 June 2018, 05:15:02 »
just finished building mine today and the entire home row isn't registering any key. i didn't really test the pcb before the build, but the soldering is clean. could this be fixed with a firmware update? if so, could someone share the firmware for this? thanks.

Unlikely, that it is the firmware, here is a link to the keymap for BootmapperClient though: https://www.dropbox.com/s/0qedoydfs4taj0r/canoe_keymap.hex?dl=0

You really should have tested your PCB first, but you can try and save it if you're confident by reflowing the corresponding pin on the MCU (or all of them lol)

Offline regionfree

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Re: [GB] Canoe by Percent Studios
« Reply #504 on: Sun, 03 June 2018, 05:25:10 »
just finished building mine today and the entire home row isn't registering any key. i didn't really test the pcb before the build, but the soldering is clean. could this be fixed with a firmware update? if so, could someone share the firmware for this? thanks.

Unlikely, that it is the firmware, here is a link to the keymap for BootmapperClient though: https://www.dropbox.com/s/0qedoydfs4taj0r/canoe_keymap.hex?dl=0

You really should have tested your PCB first, but you can try and save it if you're confident by reflowing the corresponding pin on the MCU (or all of them lol)

would you know how i can identify the pin that I should reflow on the MCU? the contact points on this thing are extremely tiny.
[/u/magicpretzel] hhkb, fc660c, rf87u, kira80, kira75, kira60, kn2.10 hhkb, tx60 hhkb, tx60, tx84se, norbatouch, canoe (not the boat), klippe x2, minivan, retro60, 5*, revo f*cking hhkb, incoming -- norbaforce x2, e6-v2, qxp x2, king|namo, kn2.10 standard, tofu x2, alf dc60 x2, singa r2, x60-r

Online MxBlue

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Re: [GB] Canoe by Percent Studios
« Reply #505 on: Sun, 03 June 2018, 05:32:33 »
just finished building mine today and the entire home row isn't registering any key. i didn't really test the pcb before the build, but the soldering is clean. could this be fixed with a firmware update? if so, could someone share the firmware for this? thanks.

Unlikely, that it is the firmware, here is a link to the keymap for BootmapperClient though: https://www.dropbox.com/s/0qedoydfs4taj0r/canoe_keymap.hex?dl=0

You really should have tested your PCB first, but you can try and save it if you're confident by reflowing the corresponding pin on the MCU (or all of them lol)

would you know how i can identify the pin that I should reflow on the MCU? the contact points on this thing are extremely tiny.

Follow the trace that connects the dead row all way. If the trace reaches a hole, that means the trace continues on the other side, flip the PCB around and continue following until you eventually reach a pin on the MCU. If you have a multimeter, you can just test continuity between a switch hole and the pins on the MCU until you find the right one.

Yes, the contacts on the MCU are tiny, so it's advised you use a chisel tip to reflow optimally without causing bridges. If you aren't confident, you'll have to wait for beamingrobot to get extras in, and hopefully organise something with him.

I wish you the best of luck, and please test all PCBs you plan to use before doing so, it really does save you a lot of pain.

Offline regionfree

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Re: [GB] Canoe by Percent Studios
« Reply #506 on: Sun, 03 June 2018, 05:35:54 »
Follow the trace that connects the dead row all way. If the trace reaches a hole, that means the trace continues on the other side, flip the PCB around and continue following until you eventually reach a pin on the MCU. If you have a multimeter, you can just test continuity between a switch hole and the pins on the MCU until you find the right one.

Yes, the contacts on the MCU are tiny, so it's advised you use a chisel tip to reflow optimally without causing bridges. If you aren't confident, you'll have to wait for beamingrobot to get extras in, and hopefully organise something with him.

I wish you the best of luck, and please test all PCBs you plan to use before doing so, it really does save you a lot of pain.

Thanks for taking the time to answer my questions! Last question. What I should try to do is touch the contact points with the soldering iron tip, and give time for the solder to reform?
[/u/magicpretzel] hhkb, fc660c, rf87u, kira80, kira75, kira60, kn2.10 hhkb, tx60 hhkb, tx60, tx84se, norbatouch, canoe (not the boat), klippe x2, minivan, retro60, 5*, revo f*cking hhkb, incoming -- norbaforce x2, e6-v2, qxp x2, king|namo, kn2.10 standard, tofu x2, alf dc60 x2, singa r2, x60-r

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Re: [GB] Canoe by Percent Studios
« Reply #507 on: Sun, 03 June 2018, 05:46:05 »
Follow the trace that connects the dead row all way. If the trace reaches a hole, that means the trace continues on the other side, flip the PCB around and continue following until you eventually reach a pin on the MCU. If you have a multimeter, you can just test continuity between a switch hole and the pins on the MCU until you find the right one.

Yes, the contacts on the MCU are tiny, so it's advised you use a chisel tip to reflow optimally without causing bridges. If you aren't confident, you'll have to wait for beamingrobot to get extras in, and hopefully organise something with him.

I wish you the best of luck, and please test all PCBs you plan to use before doing so, it really does save you a lot of pain.

Thanks for taking the time to answer my questions! Last question. What I should try to do is touch the contact points with the soldering iron tip, and give time for the solder to reform?

Basically, yes. Tin the tip of your iron, then just melt the solder until it looks liquidy, then take off the iron and let it cool.

Offline regionfree

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Re: [GB] Canoe by Percent Studios
« Reply #508 on: Sun, 03 June 2018, 05:48:31 »
Follow the trace that connects the dead row all way. If the trace reaches a hole, that means the trace continues on the other side, flip the PCB around and continue following until you eventually reach a pin on the MCU. If you have a multimeter, you can just test continuity between a switch hole and the pins on the MCU until you find the right one.

Yes, the contacts on the MCU are tiny, so it's advised you use a chisel tip to reflow optimally without causing bridges. If you aren't confident, you'll have to wait for beamingrobot to get extras in, and hopefully organise something with him.

I wish you the best of luck, and please test all PCBs you plan to use before doing so, it really does save you a lot of pain.

Thanks for taking the time to answer my questions! Last question. What I should try to do is touch the contact points with the soldering iron tip, and give time for the solder to reform?

Basically, yes. Tin the tip of your iron, then just melt the solder until it looks liquidy, then take off the iron and let it cool.

IT WORKED!!! Thank you very much for the patience in helping out, MxBlue! You are my hero! I'm typing on it now :D What would make this all better is if you let me hop on your GB :D
« Last Edit: Sun, 03 June 2018, 05:54:00 by regionfree »
[/u/magicpretzel] hhkb, fc660c, rf87u, kira80, kira75, kira60, kn2.10 hhkb, tx60 hhkb, tx60, tx84se, norbatouch, canoe (not the boat), klippe x2, minivan, retro60, 5*, revo f*cking hhkb, incoming -- norbaforce x2, e6-v2, qxp x2, king|namo, kn2.10 standard, tofu x2, alf dc60 x2, singa r2, x60-r

Online Remsky

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Re: [GB] Canoe by Percent Studios
« Reply #509 on: Sun, 03 June 2018, 20:12:55 »
Follow the trace that connects the dead row all way. If the trace reaches a hole, that means the trace continues on the other side, flip the PCB around and continue following until you eventually reach a pin on the MCU. If you have a multimeter, you can just test continuity between a switch hole and the pins on the MCU until you find the right one.

Yes, the contacts on the MCU are tiny, so it's advised you use a chisel tip to reflow optimally without causing bridges. If you aren't confident, you'll have to wait for beamingrobot to get extras in, and hopefully organise something with him.

I wish you the best of luck, and please test all PCBs you plan to use before doing so, it really does save you a lot of pain.

Thanks for taking the time to answer my questions! Last question. What I should try to do is touch the contact points with the soldering iron tip, and give time for the solder to reform?

Basically, yes. Tin the tip of your iron, then just melt the solder until it looks liquidy, then take off the iron and let it cool.

IT WORKED!!! Thank you very much for the patience in helping out, MxBlue! You are my hero! I'm typing on it now :D What would make this all better is if you let me hop on your GB :D

Pretty sure MxSS extras have already been taken, not 100% sure though.

Online frostbyte-gaming

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Re: [GB] Canoe by Percent Studios
« Reply #510 on: Sun, 03 June 2018, 21:44:40 »
So any ETA on when orders with extra plate and pcb will be shipped out the wait is killing me here.

Offline Poesjuh

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Re: [GB] Canoe by Percent Studios
« Reply #511 on: Mon, 04 June 2018, 05:37:39 »
Sometimes my Canoe won't connect to the pc, even moreso depening on what cable I use. Currently plugged in to a 3.0 anker usb hub that's directly connected to my MB. Plug it out and in and it works again. Anyone else that may have had this problem and/or knows a solution? I only have this with the Canoe, all other keebs work fine.

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Re: [GB] Canoe by Percent Studios
« Reply #512 on: Mon, 04 June 2018, 07:15:37 »
Sometimes my Canoe won't connect to the pc, even moreso depening on what cable I use. Currently plugged in to a 3.0 anker usb hub that's directly connected to my MB. Plug it out and in and it works again. Anyone else that may have had this problem and/or knows a solution? I only have this with the Canoe, all other keebs work fine.

To put it simply, the protocol that the PCB uses to talk to the OS is a funny one, and it tends to hate the following:
 - Crap cables
 - USB hubs
 - USB 3.0/3.1

So the solution is to connect directly to the motherboard, preferably on a USB 2.0 port, though I'm sure 1 or 2 ports on your system will work. An unfortunate limitation of V-USB, which is necessary for the MCU (ATMega 32A), which is necessary for ps2avrGB.

So feel free to hate all 3 of those issues LOL

Offline Jon_Flynn

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Re: [GB] Canoe by Percent Studios
« Reply #513 on: Mon, 04 June 2018, 07:19:34 »
Sometimes my Canoe won't connect to the pc, even moreso depening on what cable I use. Currently plugged in to a 3.0 anker usb hub that's directly connected to my MB. Plug it out and in and it works again. Anyone else that may have had this problem and/or knows a solution? I only have this with the Canoe, all other keebs work fine.

To put it simply, the protocol that the PCB uses to talk to the OS is a funny one, and it tends to hate the following:
 - Crap cables
 - USB hubs
 - USB 3.0/3.1

So the solution is to connect directly to the motherboard, preferably on a USB 2.0 port, though I'm sure 1 or 2 ports on your system will work. An unfortunate limitation of V-USB, which is necessary for the MCU (ATMega 32A), which is necessary for ps2avrGB.

So feel free to hate all 3 of those issues LOL


New to the programming side but would converting to the QMK option linked earlier in the thread make this more reliable?


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Online MxBlue

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Re: [GB] Canoe by Percent Studios
« Reply #514 on: Mon, 04 June 2018, 07:22:27 »
Sometimes my Canoe won't connect to the pc, even moreso depening on what cable I use. Currently plugged in to a 3.0 anker usb hub that's directly connected to my MB. Plug it out and in and it works again. Anyone else that may have had this problem and/or knows a solution? I only have this with the Canoe, all other keebs work fine.

To put it simply, the protocol that the PCB uses to talk to the OS is a funny one, and it tends to hate the following:
 - Crap cables
 - USB hubs
 - USB 3.0/3.1

So the solution is to connect directly to the motherboard, preferably on a USB 2.0 port, though I'm sure 1 or 2 ports on your system will work. An unfortunate limitation of V-USB, which is necessary for the MCU (ATMega 32A), which is necessary for ps2avrGB.

So feel free to hate all 3 of those issues LOL


New to the programming side but would converting to the QMK option linked earlier in the thread make this more reliable?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Half-half, more reliable in a way, but still not as good as a board not needing V-USB (aka a board that natively uses QMK or TMK).

EDIT: Just to add, feel free to try both. Just make sure to download and save the keymap using BootmapperClient first, that's a bit difficult to recover.
« Last Edit: Mon, 04 June 2018, 07:24:08 by MxBlue »

Offline Poesjuh

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Re: [GB] Canoe by Percent Studios
« Reply #515 on: Mon, 04 June 2018, 07:36:14 »
Sometimes my Canoe won't connect to the pc, even moreso depening on what cable I use. Currently plugged in to a 3.0 anker usb hub that's directly connected to my MB. Plug it out and in and it works again. Anyone else that may have had this problem and/or knows a solution? I only have this with the Canoe, all other keebs work fine.

To put it simply, the protocol that the PCB uses to talk to the OS is a funny one, and it tends to hate the following:
 - Crap cables
 - USB hubs
 - USB 3.0/3.1

So the solution is to connect directly to the motherboard, preferably on a USB 2.0 port, though I'm sure 1 or 2 ports on your system will work. An unfortunate limitation of V-USB, which is necessary for the MCU (ATMega 32A), which is necessary for ps2avrGB.

So feel free to hate all 3 of those issues LOL

Hmm ok, that's kinda dumb. So either I place an extra usb extension cable only for the canoe and put it in a 2.0 port, or what I did now and that's using a 2.0 port for my 3.0 usb hub :P Kinda counterintuitive but it's worth a try :)

Online MxBlue

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Re: [GB] Canoe by Percent Studios
« Reply #516 on: Mon, 04 June 2018, 07:39:15 »
Sometimes my Canoe won't connect to the pc, even moreso depening on what cable I use. Currently plugged in to a 3.0 anker usb hub that's directly connected to my MB. Plug it out and in and it works again. Anyone else that may have had this problem and/or knows a solution? I only have this with the Canoe, all other keebs work fine.

To put it simply, the protocol that the PCB uses to talk to the OS is a funny one, and it tends to hate the following:
 - Crap cables
 - USB hubs
 - USB 3.0/3.1

So the solution is to connect directly to the motherboard, preferably on a USB 2.0 port, though I'm sure 1 or 2 ports on your system will work. An unfortunate limitation of V-USB, which is necessary for the MCU (ATMega 32A), which is necessary for ps2avrGB.

So feel free to hate all 3 of those issues LOL

Hmm ok, that's kinda dumb. So either I place an extra usb extension cable only for the canoe and put it in a 2.0 port, or what I did now and that's using a 2.0 port for my 3.0 usb hub :P Kinda counterintuitive but it's worth a try :)

A small amendment, things it hates in order: USB Hub > Crappy cable > USB 3.0 . Feel free to just try variations with this mind, I wish you the best of luck,

Offline Poesjuh

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Re: [GB] Canoe by Percent Studios
« Reply #517 on: Mon, 04 June 2018, 07:50:04 »
Sometimes my Canoe won't connect to the pc, even moreso depening on what cable I use. Currently plugged in to a 3.0 anker usb hub that's directly connected to my MB. Plug it out and in and it works again. Anyone else that may have had this problem and/or knows a solution? I only have this with the Canoe, all other keebs work fine.

To put it simply, the protocol that the PCB uses to talk to the OS is a funny one, and it tends to hate the following:
 - Crap cables
 - USB hubs
 - USB 3.0/3.1

So the solution is to connect directly to the motherboard, preferably on a USB 2.0 port, though I'm sure 1 or 2 ports on your system will work. An unfortunate limitation of V-USB, which is necessary for the MCU (ATMega 32A), which is necessary for ps2avrGB.

So feel free to hate all 3 of those issues LOL

Hmm ok, that's kinda dumb. So either I place an extra usb extension cable only for the canoe and put it in a 2.0 port, or what I did now and that's using a 2.0 port for my 3.0 usb hub :P Kinda counterintuitive but it's worth a try :)

A small amendment, things it hates in order: USB Hub > Crappy cable > USB 3.0 . Feel free to just try variations with this mind, I wish you the best of luck,

Haha, thx :) For now I've tried connection hub to 2.0 port. If that doesn't help I'll just add another cable only for keyboards and plug that into a 2.0 port on the MB and only use the hub for wireless mouse recievers and usb sticks.

Thx for the quick reply though :)

Online oldcat

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Re: [GB] Canoe by Percent Studios
« Reply #518 on: Mon, 04 June 2018, 12:09:04 »
Hope the glitches will be fixed in the most recent GB (presumably the last one)

Offline ShadeDream

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Re: [GB] Canoe by Percent Studios
« Reply #519 on: Wed, 06 June 2018, 13:57:21 »
For what it's worth, I've had issues with ps2avrGB boards in the past on Macs plugged in through hubs. I ended up just plugging them in directly. At some point that cleared itself up (newer firmware?). I haven't had a ps2avrGB board in a while though until the Canoe and I haven't had issues with in any case (and it's been swapped over to QMK already).

Online MxBlue

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Re: [GB] Canoe by Percent Studios
« Reply #520 on: Wed, 06 June 2018, 18:10:16 »
After another attempt at reflowing, with a tad of added solder, I got my PCB working  :thumb: Looks like most of the problems lie with the soldering of the MCU itself.

And a shout-out to Shados for being a lad and providing me with a ISP dump of the flash and EEPROM, will help anyone who managed to brick their boards. He's let me make it publicly available, so here it is for anyone who ends up bricking their PCBs: https://www.dropbox.com/s/pj1mfvjw9lpp30w/canoe_stock_dumps.tar.gz?dl=0

Online Lndefinite

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Re: [GB] Canoe by Percent Studios
« Reply #521 on: Wed, 06 June 2018, 23:00:17 »
After another attempt at reflowing, with a tad of added solder, I got my PCB working  :thumb: Looks like most of the problems lie with the soldering of the MCU itself.

And a shout-out to Shados for being a lad and providing me with a ISP dump of the flash and EEPROM, will help anyone who managed to brick their boards. He's let me make it publicly available, so here it is for anyone who ends up bricking their PCBs: https://www.dropbox.com/s/pj1mfvjw9lpp30w/canoe_stock_dumps.tar.gz?dl=0

You're my savior. I thought I'd have to get a new PCB.

Offline LiL_BrOwNiE247

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Re: [GB] Canoe by Percent Studios
« Reply #522 on: Wed, 06 June 2018, 23:18:37 »
Sometimes my Canoe won't connect to the pc, even moreso depening on what cable I use. Currently plugged in to a 3.0 anker usb hub that's directly connected to my MB. Plug it out and in and it works again. Anyone else that may have had this problem and/or knows a solution? I only have this with the Canoe, all other keebs work fine.

To put it simply, the protocol that the PCB uses to talk to the OS is a funny one, and it tends to hate the following:
 - Crap cables
 - USB hubs
 - USB 3.0/3.1

So the solution is to connect directly to the motherboard, preferably on a USB 2.0 port, though I'm sure 1 or 2 ports on your system will work. An unfortunate limitation of V-USB, which is necessary for the MCU (ATMega 32A), which is necessary for ps2avrGB.

So feel free to hate all 3 of those issues LOL

Hmm ok, that's kinda dumb. So either I place an extra usb extension cable only for the canoe and put it in a 2.0 port, or what I did now and that's using a 2.0 port for my 3.0 usb hub :P Kinda counterintuitive but it's worth a try :)

A small amendment, things it hates in order: USB Hub > Crappy cable > USB 3.0 . Feel free to just try variations with this mind, I wish you the best of luck,

An observation some may find useful; I've noticed that sometimes the "fancy" USB cables (Mechcables, ZapCables, etc) have problems being detected by bootmapper. Every time I run into this issue, swapping out the cable for the most basic USB 2.0 -> Mini-USB has fixed it (think AmazonBasics-level basic).

Another BMC troubleshooting method I learned back when I had my KBD75 (assuming you're on Windows 10) was to go to Settings -> Devices -> Bluetooth & other devices, select ps2avrgb, and remove device. Unplug and replug the board, and wait for Windows to set everything up again.

Offline Bael_Zharon

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Re: [GB] Canoe by Percent Studios
« Reply #523 on: Wed, 06 June 2018, 23:38:03 »
I tested 5 PCB's I have here and they all worked fine for me. Bad transportation maybe? Or bad luck I guess.

Built mine today with ISO-US layout, retooled MX blacks with 52g springs, as is tradition

Show Image


Show Image


Where's the deskmat from?

Offline T0mb3ry

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Re: [GB] Canoe by Percent Studios
« Reply #524 on: Thu, 07 June 2018, 13:17:11 »
What is better than Canoe? Exactly two Canoes :)

HF Canoe
IMG_6320 by T0mb3ry, auf Flickr
IMG_6303 by T0mb3ry, auf Flickr
IMG_6327 by T0mb3ry, auf Flickr

Offline Choobies

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Re: [GB] Canoe by Percent Studios
« Reply #525 on: Thu, 07 June 2018, 13:35:00 »
What is better than Canoe? Exactly two Canoes :)

HF Canoe
Show Image
IMG_6320 by T0mb3ry, auf Flickr
Show Image
IMG_6303 by T0mb3ry, auf Flickr
Show Image
IMG_6327 by T0mb3ry, auf Flickr

Are those three pictures all of the same Canoe?  And if so, what color is the top/bottom/plate/weight?  It's beautiful.

Offline lecorsair

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Re: [GB] Canoe by Percent Studios
« Reply #526 on: Thu, 07 June 2018, 13:37:56 »
What is better than Canoe? Exactly two Canoes :)

HF Canoe
Show Image
IMG_6320 by T0mb3ry, auf Flickr
Show Image
IMG_6303 by T0mb3ry, auf Flickr
Show Image
IMG_6327 by T0mb3ry, auf Flickr

Love your photography - it's so "alive"  :thumb:

Offline T0mb3ry

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Re: [GB] Canoe by Percent Studios
« Reply #527 on: Thu, 07 June 2018, 13:42:13 »
Are those three pictures all of the same Canoe?  And if so, what color is the top/bottom/plate/weight?  It's beautiful.
Exactly on all three photos its the same canoe. The first photo is darker but i choosed it because it was more pleasing to the eye than other close up photos i made.

Love your photography - it's so "alive"  :thumb:
Thanks! <3  :D


Offline Choobies

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Re: [GB] Canoe by Percent Studios
« Reply #528 on: Thu, 07 June 2018, 13:44:03 »
Exactly on all three photos its the same canoe. The first photo is darker but i choosed it because it was more pleasing to the eye than other close up photos i made.

Silver Top, Gray Bottom, Cyan Plate, Cyan Weight?

Offline giangpn

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Re: [GB] Canoe by Percent Studios
« Reply #529 on: Thu, 07 June 2018, 13:45:01 »
What is better than Canoe? Exactly two Canoes :)

HF Canoe
Show Image
IMG_6320 by T0mb3ry, auf Flickr
Show Image
IMG_6303 by T0mb3ry, auf Flickr
Show Image
IMG_6327 by T0mb3ry, auf Flickr

nice Canoe! which keyset do you think would go great with this Canoe's color?
I see dead people.

Offline T0mb3ry

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Re: [GB] Canoe by Percent Studios
« Reply #530 on: Thu, 07 June 2018, 13:48:56 »
Exactly on all three photos its the same canoe. The first photo is darker but i choosed it because it was more pleasing to the eye than other close up photos i made.

Silver Top, Gray Bottom, Cyan Plate, Cyan Weight?

Sorry i did not answered the second question. My bad. Yes silver top, titan gray bottom, dark cyan plate, cyan weight. Tho hyperfuse is actually more mint than cyan but netherless in my opinion this is the best combo i could pull off.

What is better than Canoe? Exactly two Canoes :)

HF Canoe
Show Image
IMG_6320 by T0mb3ry, auf Flickr
Show Image
IMG_6303 by T0mb3ry, auf Flickr
Show Image
IMG_6327 by T0mb3ry, auf Flickr

nice Canoe! which keyset do you think would go great with this Canoe's color?

Hyperfuse, Oblivion (gray one), Dolch and Skydolch.
« Last Edit: Thu, 07 June 2018, 13:53:12 by T0mb3ry »

Offline Jon_Flynn

  • Posts: 210
Re: [GB] Canoe by Percent Studios
« Reply #531 on: Thu, 07 June 2018, 15:08:37 »
I have the same colour combo and whilst I canít take as nice pictures, I think it looks great with solarised dark


https://www.reddit.com/r/MechanicalKeyboards/comments/8ougl5/like_fck_endgame/?st=JI4Z4YJM&sh=c3374f14


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Offline T0mb3ry

  • Posts: 939
  • Location: Germany
  • Fritz frisst rohe Fische
Re: [GB] Canoe by Percent Studios
« Reply #532 on: Sat, 09 June 2018, 12:31:20 »
Build my HF Canoe this night.
IMG_6681 by T0mb3ry, auf Flickr
IMG_6671 by T0mb3ry, auf Flickr
IMG_6644 by T0mb3ry, auf Flickr
IMG_6641 by T0mb3ry, auf Flickr
IMG_6635 by T0mb3ry, auf Flickr
IMG_6616 by T0mb3ry, auf Flickr
IMG_6614 by T0mb3ry, auf Flickr
IMG_6611 by T0mb3ry, auf Flickr

Offline Tsuruya

  • Posts: 23
Re: [GB] Canoe by Percent Studios
« Reply #533 on: Mon, 11 June 2018, 11:19:15 »
For R1 PMs, I will get back to you on those in these two days.
It's been a week since those two days. An update would be appreciated.

Online frostbyte-gaming

  • Posts: 46
  • Location: Canada
Re: [GB] Canoe by Percent Studios
« Reply #534 on: Mon, 11 June 2018, 12:59:42 »
Not to beat a dead horse with a stick but any eta on when orders with extra pcb and plates will ship it out?

Online Mcnos

  • Posts: 37
Re: [GB] Canoe by Percent Studios
« Reply #535 on: Wed, 13 June 2018, 09:52:00 »
Anyone getting issues with the bottom row cutting in and out with the pcb? I built mine, but there's no issues with my solder points, seems to be a usb issue

Offline pixelpusher

  • Formerly known as reececonrad
  • Posts: 1890
  • Location: Tennessee - USA
Re: [GB] Canoe by Percent Studios
« Reply #536 on: Wed, 13 June 2018, 10:03:06 »
Anyone getting issues with the bottom row cutting in and out with the pcb? I built mine, but there's no issues with my solder points, seems to be a usb issue

full row not responding sounds like a weak solder joint on a pin to the MCU (the chip on the PCB)

Many people (including me) have had issues with rows not working, and they were able to fix it by reflowing those pins. 
:)

Online Mcnos

  • Posts: 37
Re: [GB] Canoe by Percent Studios
« Reply #537 on: Wed, 13 June 2018, 10:05:05 »
Anyone getting issues with the bottom row cutting in and out with the pcb? I built mine, but there's no issues with my solder points, seems to be a usb issue

full row not responding sounds like a weak solder joint on a pin to the MCU (the chip on the PCB)

Many people (including me) have had issues with rows not working, and they were able to fix it by reflowing those pins.


Oooh, that's scary. The pins are pretty small how do ya manage it?

Offline pixelpusher

  • Formerly known as reececonrad
  • Posts: 1890
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Re: [GB] Canoe by Percent Studios
« Reply #538 on: Wed, 13 June 2018, 11:48:58 »
Anyone getting issues with the bottom row cutting in and out with the pcb? I built mine, but there's no issues with my solder points, seems to be a usb issue

full row not responding sounds like a weak solder joint on a pin to the MCU (the chip on the PCB)

Many people (including me) have had issues with rows not working, and they were able to fix it by reflowing those pins.


Oooh, that's scary. The pins are pretty small how do ya manage it?


The chip is surface mount soldered, so there is solder below the pins; however, it is not making a proper connection on one or more or them.  You need to reheat that solder and help it to flow to the pins that are on top of it.  Put some flux on the pins and then touch the tip of the soldering iron to the pins. The flux makes it so that the heat will better travel all around and under the pins. It doesn't matter how much flux you use, you can clean it up with isopropyl afterwards. Don't use any solder or you will most likely bridge the connections.  I just put my solder tip across 3-4 pins at a time.  I hold the chip down with my spare hand until the solder on the pins re-solidifies.  It gets hot quickly, so take some time between pin groups.
:)

Online Mcnos

  • Posts: 37
Re: [GB] Canoe by Percent Studios
« Reply #539 on: Wed, 13 June 2018, 12:18:50 »
Anyone getting issues with the bottom row cutting in and out with the pcb? I built mine, but there's no issues with my solder points, seems to be a usb issue

full row not responding sounds like a weak solder joint on a pin to the MCU (the chip on the PCB)

Many people (including me) have had issues with rows not working, and they were able to fix it by reflowing those pins.


Oooh, that's scary. The pins are pretty small how do ya manage it?


The chip is surface mount soldered, so there is solder below the pins; however, it is not making a proper connection on one or more or them.  You need to reheat that solder and help it to flow to the pins that are on top of it.  Put some flux on the pins and then touch the tip of the soldering iron to the pins. The flux makes it so that the heat will better travel all around and under the pins. It doesn't matter how much flux you use, you can clean it up with isopropyl afterwards. Don't use any solder or you will most likely bridge the connections.  I just put my solder tip across 3-4 pins at a time.  I hold the chip down with my spare hand until the solder on the pins re-solidifies.  It gets hot quickly, so take some time between pin groups.
Is the mcu the box with the 6 pins on each side? Or the one with like 12 or so

Offline pixelpusher

  • Formerly known as reececonrad
  • Posts: 1890
  • Location: Tennessee - USA
Re: [GB] Canoe by Percent Studios
« Reply #540 on: Wed, 13 June 2018, 12:33:19 »
Anyone getting issues with the bottom row cutting in and out with the pcb? I built mine, but there's no issues with my solder points, seems to be a usb issue

full row not responding sounds like a weak solder joint on a pin to the MCU (the chip on the PCB)

Many people (including me) have had issues with rows not working, and they were able to fix it by reflowing those pins.


Oooh, that's scary. The pins are pretty small how do ya manage it?


The chip is surface mount soldered, so there is solder below the pins; however, it is not making a proper connection on one or more or them.  You need to reheat that solder and help it to flow to the pins that are on top of it.  Put some flux on the pins and then touch the tip of the soldering iron to the pins. The flux makes it so that the heat will better travel all around and under the pins. It doesn't matter how much flux you use, you can clean it up with isopropyl afterwards. Don't use any solder or you will most likely bridge the connections.  I just put my solder tip across 3-4 pins at a time.  I hold the chip down with my spare hand until the solder on the pins re-solidifies.  It gets hot quickly, so take some time between pin groups.
Is the mcu the box with the 6 pins on each side? Or the one with like 12 or so

The one with 12 or so.  The one on the left in this pic that says "Atmel" on it.

197999-0
:)

Online Mcnos

  • Posts: 37
Re: [GB] Canoe by Percent Studios
« Reply #541 on: Wed, 13 June 2018, 17:57:39 »
Anyone getting issues with the bottom row cutting in and out with the pcb? I built mine, but there's no issues with my solder points, seems to be a usb issue

full row not responding sounds like a weak solder joint on a pin to the MCU (the chip on the PCB)

Many people (including me) have had issues with rows not working, and they were able to fix it by reflowing those pins.


Oooh, that's scary. The pins are pretty small how do ya manage it?


The chip is surface mount soldered, so there is solder below the pins; however, it is not making a proper connection on one or more or them.  You need to reheat that solder and help it to flow to the pins that are on top of it.  Put some flux on the pins and then touch the tip of the soldering iron to the pins. The flux makes it so that the heat will better travel all around and under the pins. It doesn't matter how much flux you use, you can clean it up with isopropyl afterwards. Don't use any solder or you will most likely bridge the connections.  I just put my solder tip across 3-4 pins at a time.  I hold the chip down with my spare hand until the solder on the pins re-solidifies.  It gets hot quickly, so take some time between pin groups.
Is the mcu the box with the 6 pins on each side? Or the one with like 12 or so

The one with 12 or so.  The one on the left in this pic that says "Atmel" on it.

(Attachment Link)
Hmmm mines blank, but I guess I'll try it when I get home. So just put flux on the points and reflow it?

Online TechieWeirdo

  • Posts: 71
  • Location: Hong Kong
Re: [GB] Canoe by Percent Studios
« Reply #542 on: Sat, 16 June 2018, 10:42:35 »
If anyone has a spare PCB and plate that they don't need feel free to reach out. One of my two Canoes just dropped dead.
Current boards: Time TKL | Cerakoted Canoe | Another Canoe | HHKB | AEK64 | TX65 | Weaven | Pearl | MiniVan | Mechmini 2 | Jetfire | AL1 | LZ CLS s x h
Coming boards:  MxSS | Orange75 | Noxary 280

Online Mcnos

  • Posts: 37
Re: [GB] Canoe by Percent Studios
« Reply #543 on: Sat, 16 June 2018, 11:11:36 »
If anyone has a spare PCB and plate that they don't need feel free to reach out. One of my two Canoes just dropped dead.

Same. Love the qc

Offline Poesjuh

  • Posts: 120
  • Location: Netherlands - N-H
Re: [GB] Canoe by Percent Studios
« Reply #544 on: Sat, 16 June 2018, 11:25:32 »
Honestly, I think it's a pretty good idea that a GB just for extra pcb's is launched at some point. I've been thinking about maybe changing the switches in mine (vintage blacks with 72cn springs) but just don't wanna take any risk at all that might damage the pcb :S

Online Puddsy

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Re: [GB] Canoe by Percent Studios
« Reply #545 on: Mon, 18 June 2018, 22:12:19 »
i know of two separate people who are on PCB 4 and 5 respectively
QFR | MJ2 TKL | Realforce 87U | G81-3000 "Schumiboard" | Varmilo Bulgogiboard (Keycon 104) | KBD75 | MIRA (Clearsuns) | Weaven (MOD-M) | TGR Alice (soon!) | A secret board

has puddsy gotten an award for person most involved with things hes not involved in at all, yet?

Online Mcnos

  • Posts: 37
Re: [GB] Canoe by Percent Studios
« Reply #546 on: Mon, 18 June 2018, 22:14:11 »
Ooof, that spells bad news. Hopefully these replacements I'm getting from someone else other than GB runners will be okay.

Online TechieWeirdo

  • Posts: 71
  • Location: Hong Kong
Re: [GB] Canoe by Percent Studios
« Reply #547 on: Tue, 19 June 2018, 07:33:45 »
i know of two separate people who are on PCB 4 and 5 respectively

How do they even have that many?
Current boards: Time TKL | Cerakoted Canoe | Another Canoe | HHKB | AEK64 | TX65 | Weaven | Pearl | MiniVan | Mechmini 2 | Jetfire | AL1 | LZ CLS s x h
Coming boards:  MxSS | Orange75 | Noxary 280

Offline Poesjuh

  • Posts: 120
  • Location: Netherlands - N-H
Re: [GB] Canoe by Percent Studios
« Reply #548 on: Tue, 19 June 2018, 08:08:05 »
The amount of broken pcb's is kinda disturbing though :O

Online TechieWeirdo

  • Posts: 71
  • Location: Hong Kong
Re: [GB] Canoe by Percent Studios
« Reply #549 on: Tue, 19 June 2018, 08:43:59 »
Now I'm afraid of both my Canoes dying on me... And I cannot contact Percent on taobao, does anyone have a method of contacting him? Or do I have to reach out to the Chinese Communities?
Current boards: Time TKL | Cerakoted Canoe | Another Canoe | HHKB | AEK64 | TX65 | Weaven | Pearl | MiniVan | Mechmini 2 | Jetfire | AL1 | LZ CLS s x h
Coming boards:  MxSS | Orange75 | Noxary 280