[GB] Canoe by Percent Studios - R1 + R2 Fin.

[eyedrop]

Please be prepared to wait at least 3 months +-

Thanks, beamingrobot. Patience will be rewarded with a Canoe.

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[bard]

Alright everyone's gotta chill. R2 is still in production so we've gotta wait for that to complete, and then it'll be sent to me and only then I can put it up. Gform will come in the next few weeks, and once you're on the mailing list I'll give ample heads up and time before it goes up for sale.

Please be prepared to wait at least 3 months +-



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by mailing list do you mean a list on monokei.us ?

[regionfree]

just finished building mine today and the entire home row isn't registering any key. i didn't really test the pcb before the build, but the soldering is clean. could this be fixed with a firmware update? if so, could someone share the firmware for this? thanks.

[MxBlue]

just finished building mine today and the entire home row isn't registering any key. i didn't really test the pcb before the build, but the soldering is clean. could this be fixed with a firmware update? if so, could someone share the firmware for this? thanks.

Unlikely, that it is the firmware, here is a link to the keymap for BootmapperClient though: https://www.dropbox.com/s/0qedoydfs4taj0r/canoe_keymap.hex?dl=0

You really should have tested your PCB first, but you can try and save it if you're confident by reflowing the corresponding pin on the MCU (or all of them lol)

[regionfree]

just finished building mine today and the entire home row isn't registering any key. i didn't really test the pcb before the build, but the soldering is clean. could this be fixed with a firmware update? if so, could someone share the firmware for this? thanks.

Unlikely, that it is the firmware, here is a link to the keymap for BootmapperClient though: https://www.dropbox.com/s/0qedoydfs4taj0r/canoe_keymap.hex?dl=0

You really should have tested your PCB first, but you can try and save it if you're confident by reflowing the corresponding pin on the MCU (or all of them lol)

would you know how i can identify the pin that I should reflow on the MCU? the contact points on this thing are extremely tiny.

[MxBlue]

just finished building mine today and the entire home row isn't registering any key. i didn't really test the pcb before the build, but the soldering is clean. could this be fixed with a firmware update? if so, could someone share the firmware for this? thanks.

Unlikely, that it is the firmware, here is a link to the keymap for BootmapperClient though: https://www.dropbox.com/s/0qedoydfs4taj0r/canoe_keymap.hex?dl=0

You really should have tested your PCB first, but you can try and save it if you're confident by reflowing the corresponding pin on the MCU (or all of them lol)

would you know how i can identify the pin that I should reflow on the MCU? the contact points on this thing are extremely tiny.

Follow the trace that connects the dead row all way. If the trace reaches a hole, that means the trace continues on the other side, flip the PCB around and continue following until you eventually reach a pin on the MCU. If you have a multimeter, you can just test continuity between a switch hole and the pins on the MCU until you find the right one.

Yes, the contacts on the MCU are tiny, so it's advised you use a chisel tip to reflow optimally without causing bridges. If you aren't confident, you'll have to wait for beamingrobot to get extras in, and hopefully organise something with him.

I wish you the best of luck, and please test all PCBs you plan to use before doing so, it really does save you a lot of pain.

[regionfree]

Follow the trace that connects the dead row all way. If the trace reaches a hole, that means the trace continues on the other side, flip the PCB around and continue following until you eventually reach a pin on the MCU. If you have a multimeter, you can just test continuity between a switch hole and the pins on the MCU until you find the right one.

Yes, the contacts on the MCU are tiny, so it's advised you use a chisel tip to reflow optimally without causing bridges. If you aren't confident, you'll have to wait for beamingrobot to get extras in, and hopefully organise something with him.

I wish you the best of luck, and please test all PCBs you plan to use before doing so, it really does save you a lot of pain.

Thanks for taking the time to answer my questions! Last question. What I should try to do is touch the contact points with the soldering iron tip, and give time for the solder to reform?

[MxBlue]

Follow the trace that connects the dead row all way. If the trace reaches a hole, that means the trace continues on the other side, flip the PCB around and continue following until you eventually reach a pin on the MCU. If you have a multimeter, you can just test continuity between a switch hole and the pins on the MCU until you find the right one.

Yes, the contacts on the MCU are tiny, so it's advised you use a chisel tip to reflow optimally without causing bridges. If you aren't confident, you'll have to wait for beamingrobot to get extras in, and hopefully organise something with him.

I wish you the best of luck, and please test all PCBs you plan to use before doing so, it really does save you a lot of pain.

Thanks for taking the time to answer my questions! Last question. What I should try to do is touch the contact points with the soldering iron tip, and give time for the solder to reform?

Basically, yes. Tin the tip of your iron, then just melt the solder until it looks liquidy, then take off the iron and let it cool.

[regionfree]

Follow the trace that connects the dead row all way. If the trace reaches a hole, that means the trace continues on the other side, flip the PCB around and continue following until you eventually reach a pin on the MCU. If you have a multimeter, you can just test continuity between a switch hole and the pins on the MCU until you find the right one.

Yes, the contacts on the MCU are tiny, so it's advised you use a chisel tip to reflow optimally without causing bridges. If you aren't confident, you'll have to wait for beamingrobot to get extras in, and hopefully organise something with him.

I wish you the best of luck, and please test all PCBs you plan to use before doing so, it really does save you a lot of pain.

Thanks for taking the time to answer my questions! Last question. What I should try to do is touch the contact points with the soldering iron tip, and give time for the solder to reform?

Basically, yes. Tin the tip of your iron, then just melt the solder until it looks liquidy, then take off the iron and let it cool.

IT WORKED!!! Thank you very much for the patience in helping out, MxBlue! You are my hero! I'm typing on it now What would make this all better is if you let me hop on your GB

[Remsky]

Follow the trace that connects the dead row all way. If the trace reaches a hole, that means the trace continues on the other side, flip the PCB around and continue following until you eventually reach a pin on the MCU. If you have a multimeter, you can just test continuity between a switch hole and the pins on the MCU until you find the right one.

Yes, the contacts on the MCU are tiny, so it's advised you use a chisel tip to reflow optimally without causing bridges. If you aren't confident, you'll have to wait for beamingrobot to get extras in, and hopefully organise something with him.

I wish you the best of luck, and please test all PCBs you plan to use before doing so, it really does save you a lot of pain.

Thanks for taking the time to answer my questions! Last question. What I should try to do is touch the contact points with the soldering iron tip, and give time for the solder to reform?

Basically, yes. Tin the tip of your iron, then just melt the solder until it looks liquidy, then take off the iron and let it cool.

IT WORKED!!! Thank you very much for the patience in helping out, MxBlue! You are my hero! I'm typing on it now What would make this all better is if you let me hop on your GB

Pretty sure MxSS extras have already been taken, not 100% sure though.

[frostbyte-gaming]

So any ETA on when orders with extra plate and pcb will be shipped out the wait is killing me here.

[Poesjuh]

Sometimes my Canoe won't connect to the pc, even moreso depening on what cable I use. Currently plugged in to a 3.0 anker usb hub that's directly connected to my MB. Plug it out and in and it works again. Anyone else that may have had this problem and/or knows a solution? I only have this with the Canoe, all other keebs work fine.

[MxBlue]

Sometimes my Canoe won't connect to the pc, even moreso depening on what cable I use. Currently plugged in to a 3.0 anker usb hub that's directly connected to my MB. Plug it out and in and it works again. Anyone else that may have had this problem and/or knows a solution? I only have this with the Canoe, all other keebs work fine.

To put it simply, the protocol that the PCB uses to talk to the OS is a funny one, and it tends to hate the following:
 - Crap cables
 - USB hubs
 - USB 3.0/3.1

So the solution is to connect directly to the motherboard, preferably on a USB 2.0 port, though I'm sure 1 or 2 ports on your system will work. An unfortunate limitation of V-USB, which is necessary for the MCU (ATMega 32A), which is necessary for ps2avrGB.

So feel free to hate all 3 of those issues LOL

[Jae-3soteric]

Sometimes my Canoe won't connect to the pc, even moreso depening on what cable I use. Currently plugged in to a 3.0 anker usb hub that's directly connected to my MB. Plug it out and in and it works again. Anyone else that may have had this problem and/or knows a solution? I only have this with the Canoe, all other keebs work fine.

To put it simply, the protocol that the PCB uses to talk to the OS is a funny one, and it tends to hate the following:
 - Crap cables
 - USB hubs
 - USB 3.0/3.1

So the solution is to connect directly to the motherboard, preferably on a USB 2.0 port, though I'm sure 1 or 2 ports on your system will work. An unfortunate limitation of V-USB, which is necessary for the MCU (ATMega 32A), which is necessary for ps2avrGB.

So feel free to hate all 3 of those issues LOL

New to the programming side but would converting to the QMK option linked earlier in the thread make this more reliable?


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[MxBlue]

Sometimes my Canoe won't connect to the pc, even moreso depening on what cable I use. Currently plugged in to a 3.0 anker usb hub that's directly connected to my MB. Plug it out and in and it works again. Anyone else that may have had this problem and/or knows a solution? I only have this with the Canoe, all other keebs work fine.

To put it simply, the protocol that the PCB uses to talk to the OS is a funny one, and it tends to hate the following:
 - Crap cables
 - USB hubs
 - USB 3.0/3.1

So the solution is to connect directly to the motherboard, preferably on a USB 2.0 port, though I'm sure 1 or 2 ports on your system will work. An unfortunate limitation of V-USB, which is necessary for the MCU (ATMega 32A), which is necessary for ps2avrGB.

So feel free to hate all 3 of those issues LOL

New to the programming side but would converting to the QMK option linked earlier in the thread make this more reliable?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Half-half, more reliable in a way, but still not as good as a board not needing V-USB (aka a board that natively uses QMK or TMK).

EDIT: Just to add, feel free to try both. Just make sure to download and save the keymap using BootmapperClient first, that's a bit difficult to recover.

[Poesjuh]

Sometimes my Canoe won't connect to the pc, even moreso depening on what cable I use. Currently plugged in to a 3.0 anker usb hub that's directly connected to my MB. Plug it out and in and it works again. Anyone else that may have had this problem and/or knows a solution? I only have this with the Canoe, all other keebs work fine.

To put it simply, the protocol that the PCB uses to talk to the OS is a funny one, and it tends to hate the following:
 - Crap cables
 - USB hubs
 - USB 3.0/3.1

So the solution is to connect directly to the motherboard, preferably on a USB 2.0 port, though I'm sure 1 or 2 ports on your system will work. An unfortunate limitation of V-USB, which is necessary for the MCU (ATMega 32A), which is necessary for ps2avrGB.

So feel free to hate all 3 of those issues LOL

Hmm ok, that's kinda dumb. So either I place an extra usb extension cable only for the canoe and put it in a 2.0 port, or what I did now and that's using a 2.0 port for my 3.0 usb hub Kinda counterintuitive but it's worth a try

[MxBlue]

Sometimes my Canoe won't connect to the pc, even moreso depening on what cable I use. Currently plugged in to a 3.0 anker usb hub that's directly connected to my MB. Plug it out and in and it works again. Anyone else that may have had this problem and/or knows a solution? I only have this with the Canoe, all other keebs work fine.

To put it simply, the protocol that the PCB uses to talk to the OS is a funny one, and it tends to hate the following:
 - Crap cables
 - USB hubs
 - USB 3.0/3.1

So the solution is to connect directly to the motherboard, preferably on a USB 2.0 port, though I'm sure 1 or 2 ports on your system will work. An unfortunate limitation of V-USB, which is necessary for the MCU (ATMega 32A), which is necessary for ps2avrGB.

So feel free to hate all 3 of those issues LOL

Hmm ok, that's kinda dumb. So either I place an extra usb extension cable only for the canoe and put it in a 2.0 port, or what I did now and that's using a 2.0 port for my 3.0 usb hub Kinda counterintuitive but it's worth a try

A small amendment, things it hates in order: USB Hub > Crappy cable > USB 3.0 . Feel free to just try variations with this mind, I wish you the best of luck,

[Poesjuh]

Sometimes my Canoe won't connect to the pc, even moreso depening on what cable I use. Currently plugged in to a 3.0 anker usb hub that's directly connected to my MB. Plug it out and in and it works again. Anyone else that may have had this problem and/or knows a solution? I only have this with the Canoe, all other keebs work fine.

To put it simply, the protocol that the PCB uses to talk to the OS is a funny one, and it tends to hate the following:
 - Crap cables
 - USB hubs
 - USB 3.0/3.1

So the solution is to connect directly to the motherboard, preferably on a USB 2.0 port, though I'm sure 1 or 2 ports on your system will work. An unfortunate limitation of V-USB, which is necessary for the MCU (ATMega 32A), which is necessary for ps2avrGB.

So feel free to hate all 3 of those issues LOL

Hmm ok, that's kinda dumb. So either I place an extra usb extension cable only for the canoe and put it in a 2.0 port, or what I did now and that's using a 2.0 port for my 3.0 usb hub Kinda counterintuitive but it's worth a try

A small amendment, things it hates in order: USB Hub > Crappy cable > USB 3.0 . Feel free to just try variations with this mind, I wish you the best of luck,

Haha, thx For now I've tried connection hub to 2.0 port. If that doesn't help I'll just add another cable only for keyboards and plug that into a 2.0 port on the MB and only use the hub for wireless mouse recievers and usb sticks.

Thx for the quick reply though

[oldcat]

Hope the glitches will be fixed in the most recent GB (presumably the last one)

[ShadeDream]

For what it's worth, I've had issues with ps2avrGB boards in the past on Macs plugged in through hubs. I ended up just plugging them in directly. At some point that cleared itself up (newer firmware?). I haven't had a ps2avrGB board in a while though until the Canoe and I haven't had issues with in any case (and it's been swapped over to QMK already).

[MxBlue]

After another attempt at reflowing, with a tad of added solder, I got my PCB working  Looks like most of the problems lie with the soldering of the MCU itself.

And a shout-out to Shados for being a lad and providing me with a ISP dump of the flash and EEPROM, will help anyone who managed to brick their boards. He's let me make it publicly available, so here it is for anyone who ends up bricking their PCBs: https://www.dropbox.com/s/pj1mfvjw9lpp30w/canoe_stock_dumps.tar.gz?dl=0

[Lndefinite]

After another attempt at reflowing, with a tad of added solder, I got my PCB working  Looks like most of the problems lie with the soldering of the MCU itself.

And a shout-out to Shados for being a lad and providing me with a ISP dump of the flash and EEPROM, will help anyone who managed to brick their boards. He's let me make it publicly available, so here it is for anyone who ends up bricking their PCBs: https://www.dropbox.com/s/pj1mfvjw9lpp30w/canoe_stock_dumps.tar.gz?dl=0

You're my savior. I thought I'd have to get a new PCB.

[LiL_BrOwNiE247]

Sometimes my Canoe won't connect to the pc, even moreso depening on what cable I use. Currently plugged in to a 3.0 anker usb hub that's directly connected to my MB. Plug it out and in and it works again. Anyone else that may have had this problem and/or knows a solution? I only have this with the Canoe, all other keebs work fine.

To put it simply, the protocol that the PCB uses to talk to the OS is a funny one, and it tends to hate the following:
 - Crap cables
 - USB hubs
 - USB 3.0/3.1

So the solution is to connect directly to the motherboard, preferably on a USB 2.0 port, though I'm sure 1 or 2 ports on your system will work. An unfortunate limitation of V-USB, which is necessary for the MCU (ATMega 32A), which is necessary for ps2avrGB.

So feel free to hate all 3 of those issues LOL

Hmm ok, that's kinda dumb. So either I place an extra usb extension cable only for the canoe and put it in a 2.0 port, or what I did now and that's using a 2.0 port for my 3.0 usb hub Kinda counterintuitive but it's worth a try

A small amendment, things it hates in order: USB Hub > Crappy cable > USB 3.0 . Feel free to just try variations with this mind, I wish you the best of luck,

An observation some may find useful; I've noticed that sometimes the "fancy" USB cables (Mechcables, ZapCables, etc) have problems being detected by bootmapper. Every time I run into this issue, swapping out the cable for the most basic USB 2.0 -> Mini-USB has fixed it (think AmazonBasics-level basic).

Another BMC troubleshooting method I learned back when I had my KBD75 (assuming you're on Windows 10) was to go to Settings -> Devices -> Bluetooth & other devices, select ps2avrgb, and remove device. Unplug and replug the board, and wait for Windows to set everything up again.

[Bael_Zharon]

I tested 5 PCB's I have here and they all worked fine for me. Bad transportation maybe? Or bad luck I guess.

Built mine today with ISO-US layout, retooled MX blacks with 52g springs, as is tradition

Show Image

Show Image

Where's the deskmat from?

[T0mb3ry]

What is better than Canoe? Exactly two Canoes

HF Canoe
IMG_6320 by T0mb3ry, auf Flickr
IMG_6303 by T0mb3ry, auf Flickr
IMG_6327 by T0mb3ry, auf Flickr

[Choobies]

What is better than Canoe? Exactly two Canoes

HF Canoe

Show Image

IMG_6320 by T0mb3ry, auf Flickr

Show Image

IMG_6303 by T0mb3ry, auf Flickr

Show Image

IMG_6327 by T0mb3ry, auf Flickr

Are those three pictures all of the same Canoe?  And if so, what color is the top/bottom/plate/weight?  It's beautiful.

[lecorsair]

What is better than Canoe? Exactly two Canoes

HF Canoe

Show Image

IMG_6320 by T0mb3ry, auf Flickr

Show Image

IMG_6303 by T0mb3ry, auf Flickr

Show Image

IMG_6327 by T0mb3ry, auf Flickr

Love your photography - it's so "alive"  :thumb:

[T0mb3ry]

Are those three pictures all of the same Canoe?  And if so, what color is the top/bottom/plate/weight?  It's beautiful.

Exactly on all three photos its the same canoe. The first photo is darker but i choosed it because it was more pleasing to the eye than other close up photos i made.

Love your photography - it's so "alive" 

Thanks! <3 

[Choobies]

Exactly on all three photos its the same canoe. The first photo is darker but i choosed it because it was more pleasing to the eye than other close up photos i made.

Silver Top, Gray Bottom, Cyan Plate, Cyan Weight?

[giangpn]

What is better than Canoe? Exactly two Canoes

HF Canoe

Show Image

IMG_6320 by T0mb3ry, auf Flickr

Show Image

IMG_6303 by T0mb3ry, auf Flickr

Show Image

IMG_6327 by T0mb3ry, auf Flickr

nice Canoe! which keyset do you think would go great with this Canoe's color?

[T0mb3ry]

Exactly on all three photos its the same canoe. The first photo is darker but i choosed it because it was more pleasing to the eye than other close up photos i made.

Silver Top, Gray Bottom, Cyan Plate, Cyan Weight?

Sorry i did not answered the second question. My bad. Yes silver top, titan gray bottom, dark cyan plate, cyan weight. Tho hyperfuse is actually more mint than cyan but netherless in my opinion this is the best combo i could pull off.

What is better than Canoe? Exactly two Canoes

HF Canoe

Show Image

IMG_6320 by T0mb3ry, auf Flickr

Show Image

IMG_6303 by T0mb3ry, auf Flickr

Show Image

IMG_6327 by T0mb3ry, auf Flickr

nice Canoe! which keyset do you think would go great with this Canoe's color?

Hyperfuse, Oblivion (gray one), Dolch and Skydolch.

[Jae-3soteric]

I have the same colour combo and whilst I can’t take as nice pictures, I think it looks great with solarised dark


https://www.reddit.com/r/MechanicalKeyboards/comments/8ougl5/like_fck_endgame/?st=JI4Z4YJM&sh=c3374f14


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[T0mb3ry]

Build my HF Canoe this night.
IMG_6681 by T0mb3ry, auf Flickr
IMG_6671 by T0mb3ry, auf Flickr
IMG_6644 by T0mb3ry, auf Flickr
IMG_6641 by T0mb3ry, auf Flickr
IMG_6635 by T0mb3ry, auf Flickr
IMG_6616 by T0mb3ry, auf Flickr
IMG_6614 by T0mb3ry, auf Flickr
IMG_6611 by T0mb3ry, auf Flickr

[Tsuruya]

For R1 PMs, I will get back to you on those in these two days.

It's been a week since those two days. An update would be appreciated.

[frostbyte-gaming]

Not to beat a dead horse with a stick but any eta on when orders with extra pcb and plates will ship it out?

[Mcnos]

Anyone getting issues with the bottom row cutting in and out with the pcb? I built mine, but there's no issues with my solder points, seems to be a usb issue

[pixelpusher]

Anyone getting issues with the bottom row cutting in and out with the pcb? I built mine, but there's no issues with my solder points, seems to be a usb issue

full row not responding sounds like a weak solder joint on a pin to the MCU (the chip on the PCB)

Many people (including me) have had issues with rows not working, and they were able to fix it by reflowing those pins. 

[Mcnos]

Anyone getting issues with the bottom row cutting in and out with the pcb? I built mine, but there's no issues with my solder points, seems to be a usb issue

full row not responding sounds like a weak solder joint on a pin to the MCU (the chip on the PCB)

Many people (including me) have had issues with rows not working, and they were able to fix it by reflowing those pins.

Oooh, that's scary. The pins are pretty small how do ya manage it?

[pixelpusher]

Anyone getting issues with the bottom row cutting in and out with the pcb? I built mine, but there's no issues with my solder points, seems to be a usb issue

full row not responding sounds like a weak solder joint on a pin to the MCU (the chip on the PCB)

Many people (including me) have had issues with rows not working, and they were able to fix it by reflowing those pins.

Oooh, that's scary. The pins are pretty small how do ya manage it?

The chip is surface mount soldered, so there is solder below the pins; however, it is not making a proper connection on one or more or them.  You need to reheat that solder and help it to flow to the pins that are on top of it.  Put some flux on the pins and then touch the tip of the soldering iron to the pins. The flux makes it so that the heat will better travel all around and under the pins. It doesn't matter how much flux you use, you can clean it up with isopropyl afterwards. Don't use any solder or you will most likely bridge the connections.  I just put my solder tip across 3-4 pins at a time.  I hold the chip down with my spare hand until the solder on the pins re-solidifies.  It gets hot quickly, so take some time between pin groups.

[Mcnos]

Anyone getting issues with the bottom row cutting in and out with the pcb? I built mine, but there's no issues with my solder points, seems to be a usb issue

full row not responding sounds like a weak solder joint on a pin to the MCU (the chip on the PCB)

Many people (including me) have had issues with rows not working, and they were able to fix it by reflowing those pins.

Oooh, that's scary. The pins are pretty small how do ya manage it?

The chip is surface mount soldered, so there is solder below the pins; however, it is not making a proper connection on one or more or them.  You need to reheat that solder and help it to flow to the pins that are on top of it.  Put some flux on the pins and then touch the tip of the soldering iron to the pins. The flux makes it so that the heat will better travel all around and under the pins. It doesn't matter how much flux you use, you can clean it up with isopropyl afterwards. Don't use any solder or you will most likely bridge the connections.  I just put my solder tip across 3-4 pins at a time.  I hold the chip down with my spare hand until the solder on the pins re-solidifies.  It gets hot quickly, so take some time between pin groups.

Is the mcu the box with the 6 pins on each side? Or the one with like 12 or so

[pixelpusher]

Anyone getting issues with the bottom row cutting in and out with the pcb? I built mine, but there's no issues with my solder points, seems to be a usb issue

full row not responding sounds like a weak solder joint on a pin to the MCU (the chip on the PCB)

Many people (including me) have had issues with rows not working, and they were able to fix it by reflowing those pins.

Oooh, that's scary. The pins are pretty small how do ya manage it?

The chip is surface mount soldered, so there is solder below the pins; however, it is not making a proper connection on one or more or them.  You need to reheat that solder and help it to flow to the pins that are on top of it.  Put some flux on the pins and then touch the tip of the soldering iron to the pins. The flux makes it so that the heat will better travel all around and under the pins. It doesn't matter how much flux you use, you can clean it up with isopropyl afterwards. Don't use any solder or you will most likely bridge the connections.  I just put my solder tip across 3-4 pins at a time.  I hold the chip down with my spare hand until the solder on the pins re-solidifies.  It gets hot quickly, so take some time between pin groups.

Is the mcu the box with the 6 pins on each side? Or the one with like 12 or so

The one with 12 or so.  The one on the left in this pic that says "Atmel" on it.

[Mcnos]

Anyone getting issues with the bottom row cutting in and out with the pcb? I built mine, but there's no issues with my solder points, seems to be a usb issue

full row not responding sounds like a weak solder joint on a pin to the MCU (the chip on the PCB)

Many people (including me) have had issues with rows not working, and they were able to fix it by reflowing those pins.

Oooh, that's scary. The pins are pretty small how do ya manage it?

The chip is surface mount soldered, so there is solder below the pins; however, it is not making a proper connection on one or more or them.  You need to reheat that solder and help it to flow to the pins that are on top of it.  Put some flux on the pins and then touch the tip of the soldering iron to the pins. The flux makes it so that the heat will better travel all around and under the pins. It doesn't matter how much flux you use, you can clean it up with isopropyl afterwards. Don't use any solder or you will most likely bridge the connections.  I just put my solder tip across 3-4 pins at a time.  I hold the chip down with my spare hand until the solder on the pins re-solidifies.  It gets hot quickly, so take some time between pin groups.

Is the mcu the box with the 6 pins on each side? Or the one with like 12 or so

The one with 12 or so.  The one on the left in this pic that says "Atmel" on it.

(Attachment Link)

Hmmm mines blank, but I guess I'll try it when I get home. So just put flux on the points and reflow it?

[TechieWeirdo]

If anyone has a spare PCB and plate that they don't need feel free to reach out. One of my two Canoes just dropped dead.

[Mcnos]

If anyone has a spare PCB and plate that they don't need feel free to reach out. One of my two Canoes just dropped dead.

Same. Love the qc

[Poesjuh]

Honestly, I think it's a pretty good idea that a GB just for extra pcb's is launched at some point. I've been thinking about maybe changing the switches in mine (vintage blacks with 72cn springs) but just don't wanna take any risk at all that might damage the pcb :S

[Puddsy]

i know of two separate people who are on PCB 4 and 5 respectively

[Mcnos]

Ooof, that spells bad news. Hopefully these replacements I'm getting from someone else other than GB runners will be okay.

[TechieWeirdo]

i know of two separate people who are on PCB 4 and 5 respectively

How do they even have that many?

[Poesjuh]

The amount of broken pcb's is kinda disturbing though :O

[TechieWeirdo]

Now I'm afraid of both my Canoes dying on me... And I cannot contact Percent on taobao, does anyone have a method of contacting him? Or do I have to reach out to the Chinese Communities?