You have a very similar layout to the mini ergo that MOZ has been working on over here : http://geekhack.org/index.php?topic=48718.0
Any thoughts of putting any switches, trackball, buttons, etc in the middle area?
Have you considered modifying your dox to suit travel?
I would add screw holes to the bottom left and bottom right. You may need a gap in one of the layers for the usb cable, depending on how you build it.
Have you considered modifying your dox to suit travel?
Travel is only part of it; the other aspect is having something I can put on my lap when I'm on the couch. I don't think a two-part keyboard can ever work for that.
But in any case, the adventure of building something is at least half the point.
Looks good! I can help with the PCB if you want, PCB prototyping is relatively cheap and you can always try to get some "backers" here on GH to further increase your test group and bring down prices.
Looks good! I can help with the PCB if you want, PCB prototyping is relatively cheap and you can always try to get some "backers" here on GH to further increase your test group and bring down prices.
Looks like a nice design. I agree with peterstock about the staggering of the pinkie and extra index finger columns, I found I need a lot more stagger on the pinkie column than I originally planned and not much at all on the extra index finger column.
I've be quite interested in prototyping this and pitching in!
I'm sure you know this already, but if you are making the switch plate from acrylic, I recommend 3mm thickness for rigidity, and hot glue the switches in place, since they won't lock in.
I would looooove to mount a scroll wheel there. Future revisions will probably include attempts at this, but I want to get the basics working first.
Scroll wheels are a bit tricky to mount though because the quadrature encoder's IR detectors seem to require pretty precise placement, so I've been thinking about other ways to do scrolling with analog inputs. Oddly enough I haven't been able to find much in terms of analog buttons that vary the voltage based on how much force is applied, but if I could find a switch that did that it might be easier than mounting a scroll wheel. Maybe I'm just using the wrong search terms or something. Pointers to prior art here would be appreciated.
I hate to say it, but I think you've put your diodes in series when they should be wired in parallel :( Diodes are cheap though!
How much does it weigh?
My ideal porta-dox would have two thumbswitches for each hand though. :cool:
One thing I miss from my Ergodox is having a "Teensy reset" key; if that's a feature of the tmk firmware, I haven't been able to find it yet. So all my firmware changes require pulling the case apart, which is a little annoying.
One thing I miss from my Ergodox is having a "Teensy reset" key; if that's a feature of the tmk firmware, I haven't been able to find it yet. So all my firmware changes require pulling the case apart, which is a little annoying.
enum function_id {
TEENSY_KEY,
};
static const uint16_t PROGMEM fn_actions[] = {
ACTION_FUNCTION(TEENSY_KEY), // FN4 - Teensy key
};
void action_function(keyrecord_t *record, uint8_t id, uint8_t opt)
{
keyevent_t event = record->event;
if (id == TEENSY_KEY) {
clear_keyboard();
print("\n\nJump to bootloader... ");
_delay_ms(250);
bootloader_jump(); // should not return
print("not supported.\n");
}
}
Teensy key is part of tmk: have a look at this (https://github.com/shayneholmes/tmk_keyboard/blob/simon_layout/keyboard/ergodox/keymap_simon.h).
You need to add these lines to the relevant parts of your keymap.h file: [...]
I published a nice photo guide to the assembly process if anyone is interested in following along at home. Please let me know how it goes if you try it; happy to take feedback.
https://github.com/technomancy/atreus#assembly
I was also able to get the power issues figured out with some help from TMK, so I think this is a wrap.
I'm curious, how do the keys feel with an acrylic plate? Any different to a metal plate?
Also, what was the power issue and how did you fix it?
I've been building a small one hand (OneHand) or two hand (TwoHand) keyboard which looks very similar to your concept.Show Image(http://creativephotoeffects.com/pje/TwoHand.jpg)
I have two Teensy controllers, one in each half, and depending on if one or two units are interconnected. Full details are in a thread on Deskthority.
I've built the units onto an acrylic base, which holds them in position. I currently have the two units at a much wider angle (90deg) than your drawing.
The split thumb keys act as modifiers selecting numbers (right hand) or cursor movement (left). I feel you could make a very usable keyboard with your layout, but l'd investigate the key stagger as others have suggested.
I'm now looking at 3D printing a base to hold my two piece design, I may look at hinging the halves to give the best possible ergonomics.
Your one piece design will be much easier to program, and be more reliable than a two piece arrangement. I like each half of the keyboard being tented slightly, l've not tried a flat style.
Could you please share a link to your thread at DT? I like your design, personally the large size of ergo boards prevent me to try some of them, also the lack of portability. Yours look small and quite portable. Thank you for posting.My OneHand project is detailed at:
Now that you have your little board a bit longer, how is it to work on?
Typing dotted numbers right now is *very* annoying (like 127.0.0.1) because you have to go back and forth between the fn layer and the unshifted layer. I might make a separate layer just for a numpad to address this.On my layout holding the left 'space' changes the right side to a number pad with a period. I also added automatic matched brakets, etc. which enter both opening and closing brackets and then moves the cursor back between them.
On my layout holding the left 'space' changes the right side to a number pad with a period. I also added automatic matched brakets, etc. which enter both opening and closing brackets and then moves the cursor back between them.
...It seems like nearly everyone who's done a vertical board has said they should've dropped the pinky row more :) I ended up putting mine almost 3/4 of a key lower on v2, after looking closer at suka's prototypes...
For my fingers, the inner index column feels just right; when I move my index finger inward, it goes down a fair bit. But I feel like the pinky column could be dropped a bit further too.
...
It seems like nearly everyone who's done a vertical board has said they should've dropped the pinky row more :) I ended up putting mine almost 3/4 of a key lower on v2, after looking closer at suka's prototypes...
You know, initially I felt like it was too high, but after using it for a while it feels about right because I realized I don't actually hit the top key in the pinky column with my pinky, but with my ring finger. So the pinky is just responsible for three keys: the home row key, and the two beneath it. If I dropped it further it would make the very bottom key more difficult to press, which would be a drag since that's currently where I have Enter.Hi technomancy, I'm coming to a similar conclusion. I was considering moving the outer row down, but I may hold off or reduce the distance I move the column down on the next version of my keyboard.
On my layout holding the left 'space' changes the right side to a number pad with a period. I also added automatic matched brakets, etc. which enter both opening and closing brackets and then moves the cursor back between them.
Oh interesting. The auto-pairing stuff I just do in Emacs already... but I've read about keys that can act as a modifier or as an insertion key depending on whether they're tapped or held down, but I'd forgotten about it. That definitely opens up the playing field a bit! I don't know if TMK supports that, so I might just wait till I've got my own firmware working before trying that. My firmware is a ways away from working, but I've pushed what I have in-progress here: https://github.com/technomancy/orestes
Typing dotted numbers right now is *very* annoying (like 127.0.0.1) because you have to go back and forth between the fn layer and the unshifted layer. I might make a separate layer just for a numpad to address this.
For the dotted numbers, you stil got some free keys on your fn layer.
I like the design and smal form factor, would it be hard to ad two more thumb keys without messing up the feeling?
For the dotted numbers, you stil got some free keys on your fn layer.
I like the design and smal form factor, would it be hard to ad two more thumb keys without messing up the feeling?
Typing dotted numbers right now is *very* annoying (like 127.0.0.1) because you have to go back and forth between the fn layer and the unshifted layer. I might make a separate layer just for a numpad to address this.
If I could add two keys (dash and slash) without increasing the size of the board, I probably would. But I don't think it's worth adding an entire column just for those.
https://github.com/technomancy/atreus#layoutExcellent work! The TwoHand derivative of my OneHand keyboard is very similar, and I'll look at your key mapping as an option.
Anyway, just thought I'd mention that in case it helps anyone else who's designing a layout for a 40%.
Just thought I should say "thanks" for an inspiring thread! :)
I just finished building my Atreus "clone" today: see http://geekhack.org/index.php?topic=57007 (http://geekhack.org/index.php?topic=57007).
Just thought I should say "thanks" for an inspiring thread! :)
I just finished building my Atreus "clone" today: see http://geekhack.org/index.php?topic=57007 (http://geekhack.org/index.php?topic=57007).
Link doesn't work, and Constantine only has 1 post (this one) when I go into his Profile page??
This looks awesome. I have no soldering skill whatsoever though and have no idea how to do any of this stuff. Would any one be willing to build me one? If so PM me and we can discuss it further. ;D
Technomancy, I'm pretty jealous your Thinkpad still works. Nice to see you pop up in new corners of the internet. <3Cool, if you actually build one just let me know. :)This looks awesome. I have no soldering skill whatsoever though and have no idea how to do any of this stuff. Would any one be willing to build me one? If so PM me and we can discuss it further. ;D
I'm planning on making one of these puppies over the summer. If it actually happens I'll make two. I may also try and design a PCB for it since I prefer the solid feel of Plate + PCB. This would delay me actually making one though so who knows!
Link doesn't work, and Constantine only has 1 post (this one) when I go into his Profile page??
I'm planning on making one of these puppies over the summer. If it actually happens I'll make two. I may also try and design a PCB for it since I prefer the solid feel of Plate + PCB. This would delay me actually making one though so who knows!
Here are some possibilities. Going from one to the other requires changing one or two lines.
Last weekend I decided to clean up the case design I used in my build so that I can make it available to others. I used a closed-cource tool to create the design, though, and thought that my .dwg file could become useless if DraftSight is no longer available.Really like that 6 finger version.
After some googling I found OpenSCAD and put together a configurable Atreus case design. I could keep polishing it, but I think it's time to release it.
So, this is a teaser. I'll release the .scad file tonight if I have the time.
Here are some possibilities. Going from one to the other requires changing one or two lines.
(Attachment Link)
Atreus for aliens with 6 fingers
Here are some possibilities. Going from one to the other requires changing one or two lines.
Very cool! I had no idea the programmatic definition of a design like this was even possible. I couldn't get it working using the version of OpenSCAD that comes with Debian Wheezy, but once I built from source it loaded just fine. I merged your pull requests, so the old .svg can now be considered the "v1" design. Will have to update the readme to make the distinction between the two and explain how to make modifications like that. Of course, you can't change the row/column count without also changing the firmware accordingly, but that shouldn't be too difficult to explain.
It would be cool to add the logo back in, but I don't know how that would work with this format; for the boards I build I will probably just stick it back in using Inkscape before I send it to be cut unless you have some ideas of how to do this.
But it looks like you know more about org than I do.
Are you using the standard keymap from my TMK fork? I never actually got around to testing that, so I'm curious if it works. It hasn't been updated with the latest layout that has a the digits in the numpad arrangement, which is a lot nicer IMO.
I'm planning on cutting a wood case this weekend; I might add photos of that, but if you'd like to add some of yours instead that would be fine. Once I get to assembly of my second board I'll update the assembly instructions to mention the magnet wire approach; it looks a lot more tractable. I'll also add mention of using the diode legs themselves to connect the columns; I wasn't able to get photos of this the first time around since I wired them in series instead of parallel. (On the other hand, having a photo of what *not* to do might help.)
Thanks for contributing your design!
Well, I can't even say that I "use" my Atreus yet… all I use it for so far is typing drills. (I can't just switch over -- not yet: my productivity at work would go down too much.)
I am using your TMK firmware fork. I had to tweak the layout quite a bit, though. ...
I mentioned a while ago that I was writing my own firmware in Forth. I got my Forth interpreter running pretty well on the Teensy, but unfortunately it can't load more than about a quarter of the firmware program before running out of memory. It turns out 2.5kb of RAM is really not much room! I suspect a Forth pro could make it work, but this is my first exposure to Forth and my first real C code, so I've given up on that for now. I may pick it back up if I order a Teensy 3, which has comparative boatloads of RAM, or I may use it in another microcontroller project when I need to do something more complex than scanning a matrix of switches.Awesome. I need to make my own keyboard firmware at some point in the next few months, and Forth might be just the ticket; certainly a lot of fun to hack on. I’ll use a Teensy 3.0 or 3.1, so the memory shouldn’t be a problem.
In the mean time I ported the Forth firmware I'd written back into C and have been using it for the last week or so. It's still missing debouncing, but apart from that it works pretty well for being 85 lines.
https://gitlab.com/technomancy/atreus-firmware/blob/master/atreus.c
https://gitlab.com/technomancy/atreus-firmware/blob/master/atreus.c
I ordered the plywood version of the case from Ponoko over the weekend.
I'm now deciding what switches to use. A coworker has a CODE keyboard with the Cherry MX Clears, so I'm tempted to go that route. Thoughts?
I'm now deciding what switches to use. A coworker has a CODE keyboard with the Cherry MX Clears, so I'm tempted to go that route. Thoughts?
Is there a reason to use blacks as the modifiers over reds? Are the reds too light to match well with the clears?
Personally I'm of the opinion that clears are best for people who can't afford to make a lot of noise at work with blues, but obviously it's a very subjective point, and tastes vary a lot. Being able to try them before you commit helps a lot.
Personally I'm of the opinion that clears are best for people who can't afford to make a lot of noise at work with blues, but obviously it's a very subjective point, and tastes vary a lot. Being able to try them before you commit helps a lot.
Oddly enough, I've got a CM Quickfire here at work with blues and don't really like it. It could be that the cheap key caps ruin it. The keys just feel loose and too light compared to my Happy Hacking keyboard.
I'll let you know when I get to the point of having something to show! I'm probably still a week out from the case arriving, at the earliest. In the meantime, I'm helping teach a friend who bought an Ergodox kit how to solder.
On the topic of key caps: Where did you all purchase yours? I'm mostly interested in PBT since I've found I prefer those on the happy hacking-style keyboards.
On the topic of key caps: Where did you all purchase yours? I'm mostly interested in PBT since I've found I prefer those on the happy hacking-style keyboards.
Signature Plastics has a PBT set that's unreasonably cheap; only US$18 for 52 caps.
http://keyshop.pimpmykeyboard.com/products/full-keysets/dsa-blank-sets-1
The only downside is it only has one 1.5x key, and the Atreus needs two.
I've been thinking about making a variant of the case that uses 1x caps for the inner thumb keys so this wouldn't be an issue but haven't gotten to it yet. It wouldn't be quite as nice looking but it'd be a bit more logistically convenient.
On the topic of key caps: Where did you all purchase yours? I'm mostly interested in PBT since I've found I prefer those on the happy hacking-style keyboards.
Signature Plastics has a PBT set that's unreasonably cheap; only US$18 for 52 caps.
http://keyshop.pimpmykeyboard.com/products/full-keysets/dsa-blank-sets-1
The only downside is it only has one 1.5x key, and the Atreus needs two.
I've been thinking about making a variant of the case that uses 1x caps for the inner thumb keys so this wouldn't be an issue but haven't gotten to it yet. It wouldn't be quite as nice looking but it'd be a bit more logistically convenient.
If you request an extra 1.5x key from SP in your order, they might offer you a way to get a second 1.5x key
Personally I'm of the opinion that clears are best for people who can't afford to make a lot of noise at work with blues, but obviously it's a very subjective point, and tastes vary a lot. Being able to try them before you commit helps a lot.
Oddly enough, I've got a CM Quickfire here at work with blues and don't really like it. It could be that the cheap key caps ruin it. The keys just feel loose and too light compared to my Happy Hacking keyboard.
I'll let you know when I get to the point of having something to show! I'm probably still a week out from the case arriving, at the earliest. In the meantime, I'm helping teach a friend who bought an Ergodox kit how to solder.
Blues are rather high in pitch relative to older clicky switches like Alps or Buckling Springs and that certainly puts people off. I find the blues in the Atreus to be quite "chattery" but the wooden case dampens them some. I don't like swapping keycaps on hand wired boards but I might do so later this month to sound test between Retro DSA (ABS plastic) and Granite (PBT plastic) on the Atreus to see if they sound a lot different.
- Enjoy your $1 (plus shipping) 1.5x keycap!
- Enjoy your $1 (plus shipping) 1.5x keycap!
It'd be nice if there were a way to combine the shipping for the two orders, since IIRC they charge like US$8, but I couldn't find a way to do that. Maybe if you contact them via email they could arrange it.
-Phil
If you request an extra 1.5x key from SP in your order, they might offer you a way to get a second 1.5x key
If you request an extra 1.5x key from SP in your order, they might offer you a way to get a second 1.5x key
I'm going to try requesting the standard base set without a spacebar and with an extra 1.5x key.
Otherwise, I'm thinking about just grabbing 2x of their transparent or translucent 1.5x keys and putting mode LEDs under there. Not that I really look at my thumbs while typing or would need to see it to know I'm holding fn.
In other news: My plywood case from Ponoko should be here tomorrow!
More Atreus questions: What screws / nuts are you guys using for the Ponoko plywood design? I've got tons of bike hardware (which is all M3 AFAIK) but the bolts are too thick.
More Atreus questions: What screws / nuts are you guys using for the Ponoko plywood design? I've got tons of bike hardware (which is all M3 AFAIK) but the bolts are too thick.
That's weird; M3 is what I'm using. Maybe you have M5s?
Some of the hardware stores around here charge a lot more for metric sizes, so I've had some luck substituting 4-40 screws. But definitely take the case with you when you look for screws so you can tell for sure.
I've got an Olander (http://www.olander.com/) near me and we can get just a ton of anything. However, you can only get it in tons. I went to get 3 M2s once and the guy just gave me a sad look and said it wasn't worth his time to invoice me and just let me have them.
If we want to get a bunch of stuff at once I can mail it to you Technomancy to include with the kits as well as send some tim mathiasx.
If we want to get a bunch of stuff at once I can mail it to you Technomancy to include with the kits as well as send some tim mathiasx.
It would be easy for me to create a PCB matching this layout with the additional key if anyone would be interested.
I assumed that almost all the closest-row keys were modifiers; but I can see that ctrl, alt, fn, and shift are clearly "modifiers" while the others aren't, necessarily.
How should I wire up the two thumb buttons? Looking at the Github wiring diagram, it looks like the middle columns would be wired as so:
I'm also not sure whether the rows are connected across the gap. It looks like they are in the microcontroller step, but that's not mentioned earlier.
So far so good though! Here's my progress. I've realized I probably need to wire to the positive side of the inner diodes, but I can always rearrange those or use new diodes in their place if the legs aren't right.
This is covered in the end of section 5: "Once you’ve connected the left side of each row to the Teensy, you’ll need to connect the right side of the row to the left. Be sure that these connections
all go to the positive side of the diodes and don’t touch un-insulated column connections."
Maybe that's a bit unclear? Open to suggestions for how the wording could be improved. You could do it earlier, but I think having the top rows connected might make the column wiring more difficult.
This is about right, but it looks like the leftmost column of each side is missing a diode. There should be one diode for every switch. For instance, on the far left, it looks like the positive legs of the column 2 diodes are connected directly to the column 1 pins, but there should be a diode in between them.
I wire mine outwards-in on both sides, but you've wired left-to-right on both sides. This is completely arbitrary, and it works fine either way, but I could see how it might be confusing. Will try to clarify this.
Finished!
http://blog.mattgauger.com/blog/2014/08/19/atreus-my-custom-keyboard/
I had some time tonight to polish this up and get it posted:Nice write up. I've also been playing with OpenSCAD to visualize keyboard layouts for my OneHand/TwoHand project.
http://blog.mattgauger.com/blog/2014/08/19/atreus-my-custom-keyboard/
:thumb:
http://blog.mattgauger.com/blog/2014/08/19/atreus-my-custom-keyboard/
Nice; thanks. I'll link to this from the Atreus readme.
For my own board, I have a laptop case with plenty of extra room, so it fits nicely in there. But that looks like another good way to go.
I noticed your case doesn't have the logo. Did you grab the files before this was merged https://github.com/technomancy/atreus/pull/8 or is there still somewhere in the repo that has the logo-less files?
I'll add my two cents here (since I'm the one responsible for the "Mark II" case design and corresponding DXF files).
Regarding case.dxf: it seems to open just fine using QCAD version 3.6.4 and DraftSight V1R5 on Mac OS X. This http://gallery.proficad.com/tools/autocad-viewer.aspx online viewer works for me, too.
Regarding the Atreus logo: case.dxf has the logo, case-quartered.dxf, ready-for-ponoko.svg, and the OpenSCAD design do not.
I noticed your case doesn't have the logo. Did you grab the files before this was merged https://github.com/technomancy/atreus/pull/8 or is there still somewhere in the repo that has the logo-less files?
Regarding the Atreus logo: case.dxf has the logo, case-quartered.dxf, ready-for-ponoko.svg, and the OpenSCAD design do not.
I was inspired to try Vibex's JWUP layout on the Atreus after reading this blog post: http://blog.keyboard.io/post/93901487184/what-you-and-i-missed-at-keycon-2014Cool to see someone else trying my layout. I have since moved away from the 40% layout and made a new version to fit on standard sized boards. Still fiddiling with it, but I find it nicer to type on so far.
So I've pushed a JWUP layout to Github if anyone else wants to try: https://github.com/mathias/atreus-firmware/blob/jwup_layout/jwup.json -- the main difference is that I have the row 3, col 3 key mapped to comma instead of enter like Vibex's smallfry, since I prefer the enter key where it is on other Atreus layouts. Layers 2 and 3 are the same as default Atreus QWERTY and Colemak layouts.
There's also a fork of my friend's typing tutor (that he wrote to practice his Twiddler keyboard) https://github.com/mathias/ttype/tree/jwup -- The string on ttype.c line 121 finds /usr/share/dict/words words that include the home row + m & d keys, since that's as far as I am in learning the layout.
If anyone finds these things useful, let me know :thumb:
Cool to see someone else trying my layout. I have since moved away from the 40% layout and made a new version to fit on standard sized boards. Still fiddiling with it, but I find it nicer to type on so far.
Go for it. :thumb: Like I said, I'm still making changes to it on a fairly regular basis. I find designing things like this to be a ton of fun, so it' pretty much constantly changing.Cool to see someone else trying my layout. I have since moved away from the 40% layout and made a new version to fit on standard sized boards. Still fiddiling with it, but I find it nicer to type on so far.
I definitely felt the improvement over Dvorak on same-finger-multiple-keys-in-a-row movements. But now I'm tempted to do my own analysis and come up with something of my own design, probably before I spend too much more time learning either Dvorak or your JWUP layout. :)) :thumb:
Hey, I'm planning on building one of these. Will I have problems if I use a Teensy 3.1? Its a lot easier for me to get one, and I can do some programming.
Hey, I'm planning on building one of these. Will I have problems if I use a Teensy 3.1? Its a lot easier for me to get one, and I can do some programming.
I have an experimental firmware I'm using on this with the Teensy 3. It's not quite as polished as the mainline firmware.
https://github.com/technomancy/orestes/tree/teensy3
I am using this on my second Atreus, and it's to the point where I can spend a full day on it without much trouble. There are a few debouncing bugs you run into occasionally, but it's usable. This firmware has a Forth implementation on board, and my plan is to move as much of the logic as I can from C to Forth, but that has only just begun. Right now I'm the only one using it though.
Is there much programming to do? I can see you've done a lot but is most of that your forth implementation. I've done some C before and I'd like some new programming projects anyway.
If your goal is to just get a working keyboard, it's just a bit of tuning and tweaking here and there. If your goal is to have a keyboard programmed in Forth, there's lots of work remaining, and I would be happy for some help. But it's a pretty weird project, so I wouldn't be too surprised if it's something that only appeals to me.
I'm more of a LISP guy myself, but I guess I'll just get it working before I start trying some fancy stuff.
Pictures:
http://imgur.com/a/2X0Jp
Sorry, I'd upload them, but the forums software seems to suck.
I've decided to build a modified version of the Atreus. My work gives its employees access to a laser cutter.
I'm using 6mm birch plywood planed down to around 4.5mm. The sections are assembled using M3 nuts and bolts, but I'll try 6-32 screws soon.
This is way cooler than anything I could have done! Thanks for sharing it!
Don't remove the through holes under the switches so in-switch diodes can still be used.
I like the design a LOT, though I'd really like to see the option for the 2x thumb keys on each side, perhaps an option with rear mounting the controller so the upper 2 keys have clearance?
technomancy, does the new PCB have mounting holes or are you just working on the PCB for now with a plan for a new case when you've got the PCB ironed out?
Makes sense; the key switches will go into the key plate and then the PCB soldered behind that, like an Ergo Dox? I guess I hadn't thought about still needing a key plate with a PCB.
Also, what inspired you to move away from the teensy?
Any chance you would only sell the pcb?
And I assume the controller is mounted on top like the switches right?
So I could build a low profile case, compareable to gon or jd40 design?
Have you considered sourcing for the controller chips and having them presiderend on the main pcb? Same goes for the diodes. And perhaps led support.
Is the ErgoDox still your primary keyboard?
How do you like living without the number row in practice?
I'm more worried about punctuation than actual numbers.
I want dedicated parentheses and brackets ;)
Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/ZYGknG6.jpg)
So far I'm liking this setup! Got the DeepSpace keycap set on and it looks pretty good.
Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/ZYGknG6.jpg)
So far I'm liking this setup! Got the DeepSpace keycap set on and it looks pretty good.
Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/ZYGknG6.jpg)
So far I'm liking this setup! Got the DeepSpace keycap set on and it looks pretty good.
How did you get the extra keys? Hand wiring instead of using the PCB?
I'll take a populated prototype board of there is one left
Awesome thanks!I'll take a populated prototype board of there is one left
I've still got a few unclaimed, I'll let you know after the rest of the components come in.
:thumb: This looks like a fun little board. If I knew how to program I would be all over one of these early PCB's
Boards are in, they look goodShow Image(http://i.imgur.com/YJK3l7c.jpg)
Waiting on the rest of the SMD components to arrive...
While I'm waiting, I went ahead and added support for in-switch LEDs, ALPS switches, and SMD diodes to the next revision. Pending the success of the first 2 revisions, in revision 3 I'm going to try adding bluetooth HID and a rechargeable battery to it.
Boards are in, they look goodShow Image(http://i.imgur.com/YJK3l7c.jpg)
Waiting on the rest of the SMD components to arrive...
While I'm waiting, I went ahead and added support for in-switch LEDs, ALPS switches, and SMD diodes to the next revision. Pending the success of the first 2 revisions, in revision 3 I'm going to try adding bluetooth HID and a rechargeable battery to it.
Hey, any chance you could take a pic of the PCB all soldered up? This is pretty awesome!
Just checking in on this, I would love to test one of the pcbs
The other day I had a discussion about "the customer is king" vs "the expert is king".I'll play expert...
In the end we agreed that the expert should tell the customer what he wants, not the other way around.
Post-Steve Apple has a lot more models, where previously you'd get the one model Steve thought was best
So tell me, quiet or clicky?
I noticed the link on your website now links to MX blue and Matias Quiet switches. Is this correct?
I can't decide which one to get. I'm now typing on MX brown, which is okay by me.
I read the Matias switches are 60g as opposed to 45g for blues, this worries me a bit, I have very slender hands.
So tell me, quiet or clicky?
Ordered.
Sometimes I see people make an issue about surface mount diodes, backlighting, backplates, and other varieties to mounting the switches. I'm mildly curious what your opinion is on all that, but in the end I don't care much as long as it works well.
Did you write about the firmware somewhere that I can read?
I found this article that explains the basics: http://atreus.technomancy.us/firmware
But I'm more interested in the history and rationale.
Why did you write it, and why did you write it the way you did?
Is it based on another project, or written from scratch?
I see that parts are written in Lisp, which is super awesome, but you also mention TMK somewhere.
Is the keyboard compatible with other firmwares?
Maybe a bit OT, but why can't we have Forth on AVR?
I found a few that run on 8kb+ AVR chips like the one in the Arduino Mega.
But as far as I'm concerned, Forth is just stack based assembly, so why does that consume any RAM at all?
Maybe it's the Forth *interpreter* that consumes the memory.
BRB, writing compiler.
Seeing this thread bumped up, I figure'll mention my Atreus build (which I've posted in a few other places).
! @ up { } || pgup 7 8 9 *
# left down right $ || pgdn 4 5 6 +
[ ] ( ) & || ` 1 2 3 \
L2 insert super shift bksp ctrl || alt space fn . 0 =
1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 0
{ } ( ) ` = LEFT UP RIGHT |
% ^ [ ] ~ + * DOWN & \
L2 TAB WIN SHIFT DEL CTRL ALT SPACE Fn . ! ENTER
R4 R4 R4 R4 R4 R4 R4 R4 R4 R4 R4
R3 R3 R3 R3 R3 R3 R3 R3 R3 R3 R3
R1 R1 R1 R1 R1 R1 R1 R1 R1 R1 R1
R4 R4 R4 R2* R2* R3** R3** R2* R2* R4 R4 R4 R4
Wow, that looks really sharp; good work. The stripe of yellow is a nice touch.Thanks!
(Attachment Link)
Seeing this thread bumped up, I figure'll mention my Atreus build (which I've posted in a few other places). I made it from matte black acrylic, and then 3D printed a bracket to add bluetooth to it. Complete details and code on my website (http://www.cy384.com/projects/atreus-keyboard.html) and more pics on imgur (http://imgur.com/a/9Ncdh). I'm still not entirely comfortable without having a paper reference of the layout, so for convenience I'm going to put together a file to have WASD print some keycaps.
A tip that may be useful to anyone else building a custom keyboard: if you use long nylon screws, you can assemble your board and then use a sharp knife to cut them flush to exactly the right size. Also, they're soft enough not to scratch whatever surface you use the keyboard on, without adding feet. They're readily available for cheap in black or white/translucent, and I think you can dye nylon easily to other colors.
i LOVE this keyboard. i've built a phantom, gh60, infinity ergodox, and atreus in the last 30 days (been busy lol) and i like the atreus i think the best.
biggest regret i have is it comes with all normal ALPS DSA caps and that i couldn't touch type without homing bumps or deep dish so i took a knife to 2 keycaps to make my own homing bump not realizing nobody stocks DSA ALPS. SP were mean to me when i asked. so i ruined fairly rare blank keycaps. its ugly up close but you cant notice from afar. should have used stickers or something temporary. thinking about murdering some deep dish mx caps and gluing alps stems on them.
i am pondering buying the matias blank set though its likely a very cheap feeling abs set and pretty expensive at 50USD+ ship
- Are you able to get all Alphas, Numbers, F-Keys and Modifiers on that thing? I know that you'd have to work with layers, but are you able to get to more complicated shortcuts (like Ctrl-Alt-Del)? As an IT Administrator thats a necessity for me.
- Is the Split far enough apart for you?
My Keyboard is mostly a mouse extension, so heavy shortcut, modifier, win-key and Number use.
...
Thanks for the Input, it's much appreciated. I think i'll just have to do some layout testing then. I'll see how i can fit the needed functions on there. How many Layers are supported?
Just ordered my kit after some really nice and informative talk to technomancy :thumb:
My first custom keyboard, my first 40%, my first Matias keyboard and the first keyboard i'll build myself. So many firsts here ;D I'm really Stoked to get this beauty.
Since i'm German (need ä,ö,ü) and might have a different needs than most using this keyboard, i'll keep you updated on my choice for layout. I'm now heavily working on the Layout Editor to get everything sorted before the board arrives :thumb:
I don't know wether I'd survive with just having æøå on a separate layer. Will definitely be interesting to hear your toughts on it when you get to test it out!
so i was in between meetings today and i said **** it, im going to record a video about the atreus, so i indeed made a 26 min video about the atreus
I don't speak or type Norwegian, so I can't speak with authority on this, but the new layout has 5 keys on the fn layer that are just shift+number; !, @, #, $, and &. Replacing some of these with Norwegian chars might not be all that big of a deal since you already have to use shift+fn to hit %, ^, ~, and |. You could also consider moving -, /, and ' to the fn layer if the Norwegian chars are used extremely frequently.
If you do decide to add columns, keep in mind that you can probably still use the standard PCB for most of the board and just hand-wire the new columns themselves. The controller does have a few extra GPIO pins that can be used as inputs for new columns.
I would also consider moving æøå to the punctuation layer (from your standard layouts, that is). I actually don't think it would be a big problem to simply remove $, (, ) simply because when I'm using æøå that definitely means I'm NOT programming. If I'm writing code, I do so in english, meaning æøå would not be necessary.
Ah, yeah. One thing I do with the multidvorak layout I made is that it has different modes; when you first plug it in it is in software dvorak mode, and then you can switch it to hardware dvorak mode (which is really just a different set of layers). You could do something similar with "coding mode" and "Norwegian mode".
Lets say, i make a Dvorak firmware and flash it to the atreus. Would the language/keyboard selection in the OS make any difference? As i understand it, the keyboard sends direct scan codes for any key. So if i program a key to output a "e", it will write an "e" no matter what the OS thinks should be in that spot, correct?
So is there a way to influence the Atreus layout from the os, or are all changes done through flashing the firmware and the os has nothing to do with the layout?
to further my love hate relationship with dsa. i put retro on here as i originally planned. damn it looks so good
(Attachment Link)
Seeing this thread bumped up, I figure'll mention my Atreus build (which I've posted in a few other places). I made it from matte black acrylic, and then 3D printed a bracket to add bluetooth to it. Complete details and code on my website (http://www.cy384.com/projects/atreus-keyboard.html) and more pics on imgur (http://imgur.com/a/9Ncdh). I'm still not entirely comfortable without having a paper reference of the layout, so for convenience I'm going to put together a file to have WASD print some keycaps.
A tip that may be useful to anyone else building a custom keyboard: if you use long nylon screws, you can assemble your board and then use a sharp knife to cut them flush to exactly the right size. Also, they're soft enough not to scratch whatever surface you use the keyboard on, without adding feet. They're readily available for cheap in black or white/translucent, and I think you can dye nylon easily to other colors.
For what it's worth I've begun the process to try and 3D print an atreus case. The first step to that was converting the existing OpenSCAD files for laser cutting from 2D into 3D. Results of this can be found as the .stl files here: https://github.com/technomancy/atreus/tree/master/case and in the openscad_3D directory.
My intent is now to split the large models into slightly smaller parts that can more easily be printed in a consumer sized 3D printer.
Opinions welcomed.
For what it's worth I've begun the process to try and 3D print an atreus case. The first step to that was converting the existing OpenSCAD files for laser cutting from 2D into 3D. Results of this can be found as the .stl files here: https://github.com/technomancy/atreus/tree/master/case and in the openscad_3D directory.
My intent is now to split the large models into slightly smaller parts that can more easily be printed in a consumer sized 3D printer.
I think I have the 3D model worked out well enough to print in 2 pieces.
I'm printing in ABS and intend to use acetone in the pin holes to bond the halves together.
Are you not having overhang issues with that? Also, for the switch plate part, with 3D printing it seems like you should make the plate around the switch holes the right thickness for clipping onto (1.5mm for cherry, 1.0-1.2mm for alps); I've done some experimentation, you don't lose much rigidity if you do something like this:
(Attachment Link)
If you want (actually, I've already done like half of it...) I'll mess around with the openscad case code and add something like that. Personally, I think I prefer using linear_extrude for making the 2D stuff into 3D, I'll toss the code up here for discussion once I've got something pretty.
I haven't completely cleaned/optimized it, but this should let you do a test print of the plate (or the rest of it). Variables up top are set to some okay defaults. Edit the stuff near the bottom to print specific pieces. For the sake of printability I didn't stack all of the layers (to prevent overhangs/support). Just for fun I uploaded it to Shapeways, which quotes it at about $135; I think I'll stick with my lasercut parts or printing it myself :P
I haven't completely cleaned/optimized it, but this should let you do a test print of the plate (or the rest of it). Variables up top are set to some okay defaults. Edit the stuff near the bottom to print specific pieces. For the sake of printability I didn't stack all of the layers (to prevent overhangs/support). Just for fun I uploaded it to Shapeways, which quotes it at about $135; I think I'll stick with my lasercut parts or printing it myself :P
I like it. The reason I combined the upper parts was to get enough thickness to bond them together. To deal with overhangs I've used support in simplify3d. So far things have printed fairly well.
As to the pricing I agree that Shapeways is spendy. I haven't priced it with any local 3dhubs but since I have my own printer the cost to print it is somewhat negligible.
Thanks for the files. I'll probably print them out and compare both versions while awaiting the arrival of my Cherry MX switches.
I am excited to see the out come of this. Do you think this is a viable option for a case? How long do you think something of this construction can last?
Edit: alright guys, i got it to work finally. The makefile had a cp command in it, that didnt work. Fixed it and am now able to compile the firmware. So this is actually the first thing i ever typed on my atreus. Im insanely slow atm, but i already love the backspace placement. Now i just need to find out if i want to switch to dvorak at the same time... :p
Glad you got this working! If you can provide some detail about what it was in particular that you had trouble with, it would be helpful so that we can make the instructions clearer for others. I don't know much about Windows myself, so suggestions for improvement are very welcome.
Is no-one able to help me out on my layer Problem? Not having a second momentary layer is really the only thing holding me back in using the atreus as my daily driver at work. For most things its fine currently, but i have to keep a full size near by for some of the more obscure characters... Should i just switch to tmk firmware? And if so, does tmk support the pcb flip or would i have to program the board backwards?
Oh sorry; I thought I already mentioned this but maybe it was in another thread. Adding multiple momentary layers to the atreus-firmware codebase is non-trivial. I would highly recommend moving to TMK; it does have support for the reversed PCB pinout; check the readme.Thank you for your help :thumb: Im slowly getting the hang of the 40% idea. I need to shuffle some things around, but until now the general concept has been nothing but awesome. I would like to thank you again for improving my workspace just that little bit more ;D Now on to finding caps :))
So i have decided i want a much more durable one, instead of wood, i really like the atreus, its a truly genius layout, but the wood thing is making me scared to travel with it, i traveled with it for the first time last week and i kept checking if it was ok. it also makes a wood flexing sound if i put enough pressure on the board, i know its not breaking but it is sometimes like fingernails on a chalkboard
but i have no idea how i would go about getting that done, especially the metal plate, or how much it would cost.
Thanks, I'll look into this hopefully soon.but i have no idea how i would go about getting that done, especially the metal plate, or how much it would cost.
I talked to platypus, and he said that http://www.bigbluesaw.com/ is probably your best bet if you don't have anything local.
Last year I happened to find a photo of Atreus,whitch quite appealed to me because of its appreance and practical design.So if you allow,I will ask my friend redesign an Atreus with Kimera Core PCB (the Kimera Core also used in Golbat:https://geekhack.org/index.php?topic=78080 (https://geekhack.org/index.php?topic=78080)) ,which,I think,will be more than fascinating. ;D
Last year I happened to find a photo of Atreus,whitch quite appealed to me because of its appreance and practical design.So if you allow,I will ask my friend redesign an Atreus with Kimera Core PCB (the Kimera Core also used in Golbat:https://geekhack.org/index.php?topic=78080 (https://geekhack.org/index.php?topic=78080)) ,which,I think,will be more than fascinating. ;D
That sounds awesome, Like to know technomancy's thought on his design being used.
also be pretty cool if got the Atreus in aluminum sandwich case like they did with the Golbat, the atreus is such a good design, i think it would be popular.
Still using mine as my primary keyboard for the most part, its my favorite keyboard, i am still disliking the wood and want a metal atreus but i need to hold off on spending anymore money for a little bit.
Last year I happened to find a photo of Atreus,whitch quite appealed to me because of its appreance and practical design.So if you allow,I will ask my friend redesign an Atreus with Kimera Core PCB (the Kimera Core also used in Golbat:https://geekhack.org/index.php?topic=78080 (https://geekhack.org/index.php?topic=78080)) ,which,I think,will be more than fascinating. ;D
That sounds awesome, Like to know technomancy's thought on his design being used.
also be pretty cool if got the Atreus in aluminum sandwich case like they did with the Golbat, the atreus is such a good design, i think it would be popular.
Still using mine as my primary keyboard for the most part, its my favorite keyboard, i am still disliking the wood and want a metal atreus but i need to hold off on spending anymore money for a little bit.
I think you might misunderstand me.I did not plan to sell "Atreus with Kimera Core" PCB openly right now.My intention is to make a batch for myself and my friends.
Neither will I do Aluminum Sandwich Case,I planned to make Carbon Sandwich Case for myself,just like my golbat in the photo blew.Maybe CNC Anodized Aluminum Case is also a possible choice,if my friend is also interesting in Atreus.
I just saw technomancy share his source file on github.I think it's a pity that pcb in his Kicad file is not compatible with full LED.Since I used Kimera Core b4,and found it very convenient for DIY,So hereby I kindly ask if technomancy will allow me to improve Atreus PCB.
(Attachment Link)
Last year I happened to find a photo of Atreus,whitch quite appealed to me because of its appreance and practical design.So if you allow,I will ask my friend redesign an Atreus with Kimera Core PCB (the Kimera Core also used in Golbat:https://geekhack.org/index.php?topic=78080 (https://geekhack.org/index.php?topic=78080)) ,which,I think,will be more than fascinating. ;D
Here is the sample PCB of Atreus with Kimera Core.
I dont know if anyone has commented this but if you split this PCB in half it could be a perfect base for a oobly keyboard type build.
Just add some angled thumbclusters and wire the two PCB's together
I'm wondering if you ever figured out how to do a "layer lock" function in TMK? I am working on a layout for my Ergodox EZ. What I want is, if I press both Shift keys at the same time, then Caps Lock would engage. Likewise, I have a pair of buttons to engage a layer, and if I press both of them I'd like it to lock to that layer until I press both buttons again.
...
/* double spacer */
translate([300, 300]) {
if (quarter_spacer == true) {
quartered_spacer();
}
else {
spacer();
}
}
Hey y'all, I'm interested in the Atreus and like the idea of a totally hackable keyboard. I'd like to build one but add a 3.5mm jack (or two) for foot switches. How feasible is this? I can follow instructions but I'm not really an electronic tinkerer-type. What do you think?
I'll wire up a couple USB breakout boards and then make my own little micro-usb to 3.5mm mono audio cable adapters which will just always live on the end of the foot pedal cable.
I'm thinking about this foot switch which uses a mono 3.5mm plug, although now that I look at it again, I see it's "momentary" so maybe I need to look elsewhere.
How would I wire in the jacks to the existing matrix? That's the part I don't really understand.
My thinking about the USB was it's a thinner profile and you can get them with holes so you could screw it into the wood:
My gosh, that looks really cool. Nice job.
With the rubber feets provided with the kit, it stands rock-solid on my mac. Typing is still a bit slow, but the clue card is of great help.
(https://c2.staticflickr.com/9/8647/27751531833_5bd73f10a1_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/JhiRyM)
Atreus on Macbook (https://flic.kr/p/JhiRyM) by Morten Teinum (https://www.flickr.com/photos/mortenteinum/), on Flickr
...
What switches did you put innit?
I also see that you have HHKB :D Are they better than normal mech switches?
Last year I happened to find a photo of Atreus,whitch quite appealed to me because of its appreance and practical design.So if you allow,I will ask my friend redesign an Atreus with Kimera Core PCB (the Kimera Core also used in Golbat:https://geekhack.org/index.php?topic=78080 (https://geekhack.org/index.php?topic=78080)) ,which,I think,will be more than fascinating. ;DAnyway, it is an intriguing project. Please do keep us in the loop about the progress.
Arg, I can't get this keeb out of my head. I have to get this at some point. Phil, do you still do cherry plates? you don't have any cherry blacks do you?
I once considered a Atreus because of its ortholinear and natural hand positioning and its compact size. However, I haven't tried a 40% yet and I haven't tried any ortholinear either.
There are Atreus builds out there that remind me of my interest towards it from time to time. Such as this custom bluetooth build:Show Image(https://i.imgur.com/X0QU1Rz.jpg)
https://www.reddit.com/r/MechanicalKeyboards/comments/3sgld5/finished_my_custom_bluetooth_atreus/ (https://www.reddit.com/r/MechanicalKeyboards/comments/3sgld5/finished_my_custom_bluetooth_atreus/)
Oh, and I also wanted to ask if you have any darker woods?
what caps do you think I should get? Should I just get blanks for the bottom row?
Just found a variant:Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/YeUmb9c.jpg)
https://www.reddit.com/r/olkb/comments/5alrtw/my_new_keyboard_a_cross_between_the_planck_and/
Just found a variant:Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/YeUmb9c.jpg)
https://www.reddit.com/r/olkb/comments/5alrtw/my_new_keyboard_a_cross_between_the_planck_and/
Does the partial kit contain everything you need if you bring your own switches and caps?
Are there cherry kits still in stock?
Do you by any chance, sell the PCB separately?
(https://c2.staticflickr.com/1/408/31514905281_7641fc7095_b.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/Q1S8nT)
Xpost
Still looks fantastic. I did just opt for the atreus62. But I bring my matias one (not pictured) anytime I travel
Figured I should post my Trackpoint Atreus here :thumb:
Figured I should post my Trackpoint Atreus here :thumb:
Wow that is really cool, are trackpoints supported in TMK/QMK?
Figured I should post my Trackpoint Atreus here :thumb:
Wow that is really cool, are trackpoints supported in TMK/QMK?
Kind of, the support is there if you dig into the firmware a bit, but it was pretty easy :thumb:
Love it! Got a build log?
Figured I should post my Trackpoint Atreus here :thumb:Please post a few pictures of the insides. This is very pretty. How does your layout handle mouse buttons?
Please post a few pictures of the insides. This is very pretty. How does your layout handle mouse buttons?
Usability wise, how does it feel the track point in the middle with respect to the "standard" position?
Figured I should post my Trackpoint Atreus here :thumb:
Usability wise, how does it feel the track point in the middle with respect to the "standard" position?
Try the Thinkpad :D
What's the column staggering like for those of you with small hands? I have frustratingly small hands and was thinking about modifying the Atreus column staggering to be smaller, similar to the Ergodox.
Maybe the column staggering doesn't matter much at all?
Have you tried planck? I'm think about getting a planck :pWhat's the column staggering like for those of you with small hands? I have frustratingly small hands and was thinking about modifying the Atreus column staggering to be smaller, similar to the Ergodox.
Maybe the column staggering doesn't matter much at all?
I have very small hands, and I find the atreus much more comfortable that a "normal" staggered layout, reaching the keys is so much easier. Never tried an ergodox though, so I can't compare the two.
Have you tried planck? I'm think about getting a planck :pWhat's the column staggering like for those of you with small hands? I have frustratingly small hands and was thinking about modifying the Atreus column staggering to be smaller, similar to the Ergodox.
Maybe the column staggering doesn't matter much at all?
I have very small hands, and I find the atreus much more comfortable that a "normal" staggered layout, reaching the keys is so much easier. Never tried an ergodox though, so I can't compare the two.
Hi,
I'm looking at different small key count options. Are you willing to share your layout?
Thanks
G20 Semiotic on Atreus!Love itShow Image(https://i.reddituploads.com/b2ea453c159441248b28844ce3f1cd5d?fit=max&h=1536&w=1536&s=46dd699cccf77a031eb245548a643530)
G20 Semiotic on Atreus!Show Image(https://i.reddituploads.com/b2ea453c159441248b28844ce3f1cd5d?fit=max&h=1536&w=1536&s=46dd699cccf77a031eb245548a643530)
G20 Semiotic on Atreus!Show Image(https://i.reddituploads.com/b2ea453c159441248b28844ce3f1cd5d?fit=max&h=1536&w=1536&s=46dd699cccf77a031eb245548a643530)
Curious what made you change your mind, seeing you are selling it?
Damn, Singapore! Be sure to go around a lot and have good food! (I'm from Singapore) Thanks for shilling the Atreus, I've always wanted one, just never got around to getting one :/ But Semiotic looks great on wood!G20 Semiotic on Atreus!Show Image(https://i.reddituploads.com/b2ea453c159441248b28844ce3f1cd5d?fit=max&h=1536&w=1536&s=46dd699cccf77a031eb245548a643530)
Curious what made you change your mind, seeing you are selling it?
Good question! I'm doing my exchange semester in Singapore and I'm a bit tight on the budget. I want to try HHKB, and I can't have them both. Otherwise Atreus is really a nice layout to use on the go, or even when you are sitting at your desk. It's even more comfortable with G20 sets compared to SA because of the angle and height difference. And being ortholinear, and the fact that I can use my right thumb to activate fn layer, it has a really comfortable numpad and symbol access.
If anyone is looking for a travel case, this fits really nice: http://www.ebay.com/itm/291765204494Show Image(https://i.imgur.com/xbHYZcY.jpg)
Anyone knows if Atreus 2 will be open source as well?Have plans for Atreus 2 been announced?
I’m gonna make one with the track point.
Anyone knows if Atreus 2 will be open source as well?Have plans for Atreus 2 been announced?
I’m gonna make one with the track point.
Sent from my Ono-Sendai Cyberspace 7 using Tapatalk
Wow! There is a lot to like about the many features listed there! Thank you for sharing here!Anyone knows if Atreus 2 will be open source as well?Have plans for Atreus 2 been announced?
I’m gonna make one with the track point.
Sent from my Ono-Sendai Cyberspace 7 using Tapatalk
I found Atreus 2 on the mailing list https://www.freelists.org/post/atreus/The-Next-Atreus
It looks like there will be an onboard MCU instead of a pro micro :(