A couple of questions about the custom cut top plate (with switch cutouts) that a few people ordered to go with this kit:yep, i can ship them at the same time.
- You mentioned that there might be an option to buy this kit without the standard top plate, to avoid redundancy for those ordering the version with switch cutouts. Is this still possible?
- Will both this kit and the custom top plates be shipped together? I'm in the UK so it would be great if shipping could be combined!
Thanks, and thanks again for making this happen :D
how much more is the plate with cutouts compared to no cutouts?
A couple of questions about the custom cut top plate (with switch cutouts) that a few people ordered to go with this kit:yep, i can ship them at the same time.
- You mentioned that there might be an option to buy this kit without the standard top plate, to avoid redundancy for those ordering the version with switch cutouts. Is this still possible?
- Will both this kit and the custom top plates be shipped together? I'm in the UK so it would be great if shipping could be combined!
Thanks, and thanks again for making this happen :D
it is still possible to order the kit without top plate but i need to calculate the cost difference and my brain is currently fried. for now, please order the full kit and put in your order notes that you don't need the top plate. i will give you a partial refund for the difference. once i calculate the cost difference, i will add an option for it.
Done. ;D ^I also wouldn't need a top plate, as I purchased the removable switch top plate. I'll leave a note here, as I've already placed my order.
Edit: Just to confirm, we'll need to source:
40x MX switches
2x PCB mount stabilizers, 1x 6.25u Spacebar wire
1x Teensy
1x Female Mini USB port (SMD?)
_x diodes? Which ones? :o
Is there a limited supply for this kit? Is there a deadline?Don't know about the deadline, but it's not limited -- in fact, if I was following the IC correctly, 30 kits is about the break-even point for the organizers -- no profit until that point, thus the NJW fund can't get any meaningful donation until about 40 kits.
The kit will come with
PCB,
top and bottom titanium plates (without notches for switch removal),
all necessary fasteners (machine screws and spacers) and
small rubber bumpons for placing the keyboard at an angle.
40x MX switches
2xPCBPlate mount stabilizers, 1x 6.25u Spacebar wire
1x Teensy
1x Female Mini USB port (SMD?)
_x diodes?
No chance on PCB only? Recently got into making wood cases.
Am I missing something or is the deal that for the $160 you get:QuoteThe kit will come with
PCB,
top and bottom titanium plates (without notches for switch removal),
all necessary fasteners (machine screws and spacers) and
small rubber bumpons for placing the keyboard at an angle.
The in addition you need to get hold of:40x MX switches
2xPCBPlate mount stabilizers, 1x 6.25u Spacebar wire
1x Teensy
1x Female Mini USB port (SMD?)
_x diodes?
The information on the ordering page is poor. It should clearly state what you get and also what other parts that are the bare necessities to turn it into functioning keyboard. I like the initiative but don't know for sure what I would be ordering and thus what other bits that I need to get myself.
Is there a limited supply for this kit? Is there a deadline?unless i get a HUGE number of orders in the next few days, there is a limited supply that i've computed for. i actually don't have an exact count of how many units i will be able to yield because of the laser-cut plates already sold and some other stuff, but it's like 45-ish total to be conservative. the break-even point is at approximately 35 units. i have to order material in multiples of 20-ish kits, and i wasn't confident enough in demand to get to 60 kits, but if people overwhelm me with orders, we can totally get more made. more units is just more donation to the smallfry scholarship trust, so i'm absolutely happy to do it.
I am spending way too much on keyboard stuff anyway and I am pretty sure I will not really use this layout. Would be a pretty expensive toy that will just sit on my desktop and look pretty.
But it's soooo tempting :p
do you need plate mount or pcb mount switches??
do you need plate mount or pcb mount switches??
to be clear, if we can move about 25 units by next thursday, when i will be ordering the stock material, i will buy 2 more sheets: enough to make 20-ish more units for between 60 and 70 total units available. if all units sell at the 45-ish number, i will be able to make a multi-thousand dollar donation to the NJW foundation. if i can move 20 more, i can add more than a thousand dollars to that donation total.
can we get a shot of the pcb??
I am offering FREE assembly service for the first 5 individuals ( just post in the thread ) that perhaps don't have any soldering equipment but would still want to purchase this keyboard.
I would prefer it to be in the USA, all I ask if is for you to pay the shipping.
If you are happy with the assembly and want to send any money for the service please message Mkawa so that he can get the money to Smallfry's family.
I am offering FREE assembly service for the first 5 individuals ( just post in the thread ) that perhaps don't have any soldering equipment but would still want to purchase this keyboard.
I would prefer it to be in the USA, all I ask is for you to pay the shipping.
If you are happy with the assembly and want to send any money for the service please message Mkawa so that he can get the money to Smallfry's family.
What's the eta of these boards? I want to get one made before July 5th
I am offering FREE assembly service for the first 5 individuals ( just post in the thread ) that perhaps don't have any soldering equipment but would still want to purchase this keyboard.I'll take you up on this offer if they haven't all been taken.
I would prefer it to be in the USA, all I ask is for you to pay the shipping.
If you are happy with the assembly and want to send any money for the service please message Mkawa so that he can get the money to Smallfry's family.
I am offering FREE assembly service for the first 5 individuals ( just post in the thread ) that perhaps don't have any soldering equipment but would still want to purchase this keyboard.
I would prefer it to be in the USA, all I ask is for you to pay the shipping.
If you are happy with the assembly and want to send any money for the service please message Mkawa so that he can get the money to Smallfry's family.
**** IF YOU ARE INTEREST IN THIS SERVICE PM ME SO THAT I CAN GIVE YOU INSTRUCTIONS ON WHAT TO PUT IN THE NOTES WHEN ORDERING THE KEYBOARD****
I have spoken with Mkawa and he will combine all the kits and ship them to me. I will then split that cost between the individuals, this way you will only pay shipping from me ( USA, Conus ) to you + the split cost of shipping to me instead of paying shipping twice ( Thank you Mkawa ).
If you don't have the switches, I can purchase them ( 50 pack ) from Mechanicalkeyboards for $29 including shipping
Colors available as of this post from MK
RED
BLUE
GREEN
BROWN
BLACK
GRAY
WHITE
CLEAR
Some of the switches will require me to convert them from PCB to plate by clipping the two legs off, this will not affect the switch in any way.
I can also do a ergo-clear mod if you purchase / send me the springs.
I am including free diodes / resistor / led on caps lock ( blue / red / purple ) / spacebar stabilizer / usb connector with the assembly, you will still need to buy a teensy 2.0 which will be offered later and your choice of switches from MK or the ones you want to send me.
Forgot to ask, will the pcb allow pcb mounted switches? Don't want to cut off the pegs on the switches I have right now
Forgot to ask, will the pcb allow pcb mounted switches? Don't want to cut off the pegs on the switches I have right now
do you need plate mount or pcb mount switches??
Plate mount. Or you can clip the plastic "legs" off PCB mount switches.
:D :D :D muchas gracias!I am offering FREE assembly service for the first 5 individuals ( just post in the thread ) that perhaps don't have any soldering equipment but would still want to purchase this keyboard.
I am offering FREE assembly service for the first543 individuals ( just post in the thread ) that perhaps don't have any soldering equipment but would still want to purchase this keyboard.
I would prefer it to be in the USA, all I ask is for you to pay the shipping.
If you are happy with the assembly and want to send any money for the service please message Mkawa so that he can get the money to Smallfry's family.
I am offering FREE assembly service for the first543 individuals ( just post in the thread ) that perhaps don't have any soldering equipment but would still want to purchase this keyboard.
I would prefer it to be in the USA, all I ask is for you to pay the shipping.
If you are happy with the assembly and want to send any money for the service please message Mkawa so that he can get the money to Smallfry's family.
i'm pretty sure you guys just blew away that 25 unit goal i set for NEXT THURSDAY :eek: :eek: :eek: :eek:
I wonder how a brushed stainless spacer would look between the plates??
I am offering FREE assembly service for the first543 individuals ( just post in the thread ) that perhaps don't have any soldering equipment but would still want to purchase this keyboard.
I would prefer it to be in the USA, all I ask is for you to pay the shipping.
If you are happy with the assembly and want to send any money for the service please message Mkawa so that he can get the money to Smallfry's family.
I wonder how a brushed stainless spacer would look between the plates??
are you volunteering yourself to make and sell some spacers for this project? :p
So no more mod friendly top plates?No, they only did a limited run. :'( If there is a second round though I would totally be in for one. ;)
Any chance I could just get a Ti bottom plate?there's going to be a limited number of bottom plate-only kits, and priority will go to the people who had notched ti top plates cut. the last few cuts are in flux though, so i'm not exactly sure how many extra bottom plate units there will be.
I have a constructed JD40 and cutout top plate.
I am interested but don't know how to solder. Would this be a suitable beginner's project? I know that there is the opportunity for someone else to do it, but I would like to learn!the link to order is on the store.
I am interested but don't know how to solder. Would this be a suitable beginner's project? I know that there is the opportunity for someone else to do it, but I would like to learn!
I am interested but don't know how to solder. Would this be a suitable beginner's project? I know that there is the opportunity for someone else to do it, but I would like to learn!
This is a great project for learning how to solder. Through hole soldering of resistors and switches is very basic. Also, if you don't already have a soldering kit I highly recommend picking up the kit from Geekhackers.org (http://www.geekhackers.org/collections/hand-tools/products/special-discount-learn-to-solder-kit). That's the one I used when learning how to solder and if you buy it in conjunction with the Smallfry kit you'll get a second Smallfry PCB free. I honestly think with 1 PCB you'd be hard pressed to make a mistake that's unrecoverable, but with 2 you could even end up with an extra PCB for a future project!
I am interested but don't know how to solder. Would this be a suitable beginner's project? I know that there is the opportunity for someone else to do it, but I would like to learn!
This is a great project for learning how to solder. Through hole soldering of resistors and switches is very basic. Also, if you don't already have a soldering kit I highly recommend picking up the kit from Geekhackers.org (http://www.geekhackers.org/collections/hand-tools/products/special-discount-learn-to-solder-kit). That's the one I used when learning how to solder and if you buy it in conjunction with the Smallfry kit you'll get a second Smallfry PCB free. I honestly think with 1 PCB you'd be hard pressed to make a mistake that's unrecoverable, but with 2 you could even end up with an extra PCB for a future project!
Do I have to order the deluxe kit or can I just order the soldering iron with the smallfry?
images are on the product page
quick announcement: i really want to encourage people to build these themselves. to that end, and with an _extremely_ generous donation from geniekid, if you order any form of the learn to solder kit, either the cl1481 standard kit (without soldapullt or nippers), or the learn to solder special kit (with the soldapullt and snippers), and you purchase a smallfry kit, we will provide you with an _extra_ pcb, free of charge, courtesy of geniekid, in case you make a mistake while constructing your kit :eek:
I am interested but don't know how to solder. Would this be a suitable beginner's project? I know that there is the opportunity for someone else to do it, but I would like to learn!
This is a great project for learning how to solder. Through hole soldering of resistors and switches is very basic. Also, if you don't already have a soldering kit I highly recommend picking up the kit from Geekhackers.org (http://www.geekhackers.org/collections/hand-tools/products/special-discount-learn-to-solder-kit). That's the one I used when learning how to solder and if you buy it in conjunction with the Smallfry kit you'll get a second Smallfry PCB free. I honestly think with 1 PCB you'd be hard pressed to make a mistake that's unrecoverable, but with 2 you could even end up with an extra PCB for a future project!
Do I have to order the deluxe kit or can I just order the soldering iron with the smallfry?
I've never built a keyboard before, and i will be learning how to do so when the duck viper / eagle is out. How similar would this be? I will probably buy the soldering kit and get into this business this summer :D
DSA is pretty much the only option for caps, is that right?
http://keyshop.pimpmykeyboard.com/products/full-keysets/dsa-blank-sets-1
I'm probally going to order a set of these, is this enough to cover the weird mods?
Actually that's a good question. My understanding is you don't need the deluxe kit (with soldapullt and cutters), but I think you will need the *standard kit* that comes with the iron holder, Kester solder, additional tips, tip changing wrench, and an extension cord. I do not believe just the iron itself will qualify for the deal. mkawa has the final say in this matter so hopefully he will correct me if I am wrong!
I've never built a keyboard before, and i will be learning how to do so when the duck viper / eagle is out. How similar would this be? I will probably buy the soldering kit and get into this business this summer :D
Actually that's a good question. My understanding is you don't need the deluxe kit (with soldapullt and cutters), but I think you will need the *standard kit* that comes with the iron holder, Kester solder, additional tips, tip changing wrench, and an extension cord. I do not believe just the iron itself will qualify for the deal. mkawa has the final say in this matter so hopefully he will correct me if I am wrong!
Yeah, I'm asking this because there is no "standard kit" labeled in the store.
Any chance I could just get a Ti bottom plate?there's going to be a limited number of bottom plate-only kits, and priority will go to the people who had notched ti top plates cut. the last few cuts are in flux though, so i'm not exactly sure how many extra bottom plate units there will be.
I have a constructed JD40 and cutout top plate.
Congrats to everyone involved on getting this to be such a success! I wasn't here to meet Smallfry, but reading about him makes me happy :)
I'd order but no money.
Smallfry is a very important part of this website, even almost a year after his passing.
I hope everyone enjoys their smallfry keyboards once they're all built.
I'll build 5 of these if people don't want to do themselves - will be $25 per board which I will donate 100% of.
note that margo is in the EU
Also, for additional donations to the NJW foundation, please hold onto your money for now. I am still waiting to hear back from Largefry re: the status of the trust. Ideally, it's best if additional donations go directly to him. However, if you donate to geekhack via the donation buttons anywhere on this site and put "please donate this directly to the NJW foundation" or anything to that effect, I will make sure that the money gets to the NJW foundation.
On behalf of TechKeys, I want to sponsor Diodes for everyone.
Ming - please get a hold of me to work out details.
I will provide a "default" firmware so that everyone can program their Teensys. Also, I believe metalliqaz' Easy AVR firmware will work with these. Either way, all you have to do to load the firmware onto the Teensy is to use PJRC's excellent Teensy Loader software.
So if I just bought a weller last week, do I not qualify for the extra pcb =/
I'll build 5 of these if people don't want to do themselves - will be $25 per board which I will donate 100% of.
I'll build 5 of these if people don't want to do themselves - will be $25 per board which I will donate 100% of.
I already asked Thechemist to assemble mine, but since he is in the US it might make more sense to ask you.
How would it work? What's the total costs? 25$ for assembly + switches?
How do I order a kit so you will get it?
I'll build 5 of these if people don't want to do themselves - will be $25 per board which I will donate 100% of.
I already asked Thechemist to assemble mine, but since he is in the US it might make more sense to ask you.
How would it work? What's the total costs? 25$ for assembly + switches?
How do I order a kit so you will get it?
Errm, I have some instructions somewhere - I will send them to you later :D
Would it be possible to buy just the PCB? $159 is bit pricy for me right now (especially since that is before controller, switches, and caps), and I'm kinda wanting to make a things a bit different anyway (want to make a clamshell tablet case with a keyboard built in).
Would it be possible to buy just the PCB? $159 is bit pricy for me right now (especially since that is before controller, switches, and caps), and I'm kinda wanting to make a things a bit different anyway (want to make a clamshell tablet case with a keyboard built in).
Just a PCB won't be much use unless you get a plate machined yourself
what's the best/cheapest source to get plate-mounted stabilizers for this beauty?
And I do belive that if you clip the ends of a PCB mount it will fit
heads up! my laser-cutter was able to fit two more NOTCHED plates on the sheet of Ti that I had on hand. first come first serve!Just bought one. Can you combind it with the shipment to TheChemist to save on shipping costs? And did you say before that you would offer a discount for people who bought them so you didn't have to send them a new notched and unotched plate?
http://www.geekhackers.org/products/jd40-40-keyboard-titanium-switch-plates-with-notches-for-switch-disassembly
yes and yesAwesome. I was really sad when I didn't have the cash to buy it the first time around. Really glad you found some space for more.
Would it be possible to buy just the PCB? $159 is bit pricy for me right now (especially since that is before controller, switches, and caps), and I'm kinda wanting to make a things a bit different anyway (want to make a clamshell tablet case with a keyboard built in).
Just a PCB won't be much use unless you get a plate machined yourself
Not to mention that's going to be one THICK tablet case. The minimum distance between the bottom of the top plate and the top of the bottom (plate, housing, whatever) is 0.5 inches (12mm). Because the Teensy sticks off the back of the PCB, and has a USB connector there.
heads up! my laser-cutter was able to fit two more NOTCHED plates on the sheet of Ti that I had on hand. first come first serve!
http://www.geekhackers.org/products/jd40-40-keyboard-titanium-switch-plates-with-notches-for-switch-disassembly
Would it be possible to buy just the PCB? $159 is bit pricy for me right now (especially since that is before controller, switches, and caps), and I'm kinda wanting to make a things a bit different anyway (want to make a clamshell tablet case with a keyboard built in).
Any chance I could just get a Ti bottom plate?there's going to be a limited number of bottom plate-only kits, and priority will go to the people who had notched ti top plates cut. the last few cuts are in flux though, so i'm not exactly sure how many extra bottom plate units there will be.
I have a constructed JD40 and cutout top plate.
I got one of those notched top plates. Shouldn't be an issue, then?
Possible to get it without the PCB, too? Should I use the order form in the OP?
if there are extra bottom plates after all the gb orders are sent out, i'll vend the parts separately. we're still talking about PCBs. for partial kits where you haven't purchased a notched plate already, best to wait until after the gb.
We should totally have these kits laser etched with x/40 :cool:
That badge is beautiful! I personally wouldn't mind chipping in some more (if your laser cutter can cut Ti) to make this SmallFry board even more special, to commemorate Nathan Walker.I agree with Zeal, this would be awesome. ;D
Would prefer the back plain, sorry.
Would prefer the back plain, sorry.
+1
I can understand the appeal and design wise it looks good, but it's not for me.
Would prefer the back plain, sorry.
+1
I can understand the appeal and design wise it looks good, but it's not for me.
Just to be clear, that image was just an example of how laser engraving looks on stainless steel. The actual JD40 logo is still being designed (by lastpilot).
I am offering FREE assembly service for the first5432 individuals ( just post in the thread ) that perhaps don't have any soldering equipment but would still want to purchase this keyboard.
I would prefer it to be in the USA, all I ask is for you to pay the shipping.
If you are happy with the assembly and want to send any money for the service please message Mkawa so that he can get the money to Smallfry's family.
If it came as a badge, like the one pictured above, people could have the option of using it or not.
Would prefer the back plain, sorry.
+1
I can understand the appeal and design wise it looks good, but it's not for me.
folks! i was just looking at the notes, and someone reminded me about previous learn to solder kit buyers. you will get a free 2nd pcb. just add a note to your order. thanks!!
start with switches for now. there is likely to be a run on them since the gh60 boards are going to start hitting people and it may coincide with this board.
folks. i have some pretty incredible news.Awesome! ;D
i've found a titanium anodizer, and we have enough money to anodize EVERYTHING
MUAHAHAHAHA
folks. i have some pretty incredible news.
i've found a titanium anodizer, and we have enough money to anodize EVERYTHING
MUAHAHAHAHA
there will be a choice of colors
folks. i have some pretty incredible news.
i've found a titanium anodizer, and we have enough money to anodize EVERYTHING
MUAHAHAHAHA
there will be a choice of colors
there will be a choice of colorsEven more awesome! Any ideas for what colours will be offered?
there will be a choice of colors
there will be a choice of colorsShow Image(http://stream1.gifsoup.com/view1/2394196/michael-palin-faint-o.gif)
Someone get vector purple for me. Please...i know. i asked. they can't do red :(
In slightly less off-topic news, if you didn't know, Smallfry's favorite color was red. It would be cool to see that offered.
Someone get vector purple for me. Please...
colors for initial perusal
Someone get vector purple for me. Please...
In slightly less off-topic news, if you didn't know, Smallfry's favorite color was red. It would be cool to see that offered.
colors for initial perusal
so, the deal is that we need 60 total pcs to get the pricing i quoted
i would go with a contrasting color if you're planning on going granite. my personal favorite is a blue variant, but that's just me ;)I was thinking the Medium blue, but I wanted to hear other peoples opinions. A red would have been my first choice, but you said the company you are using can't do that. :'(
I am offering FREE assembly service for the first 5 individuals ( just post in the thread ) that perhaps don't have any soldering equipment but would still want to purchase this keyboard.
I would prefer it to be in the USA, all I ask is for you to pay the shipping.
If you are happy with the assembly and want to send any money for the service please message Mkawa so that he can get the money to Smallfry's family.
**** IF YOU ARE INTERESTED IN THIS SERVICE PM ME SO THAT I CAN GIVE YOU INSTRUCTIONS ON WHAT TO PUT IN THE NOTES WHEN ORDERING THE KEYBOARD****
I have spoken with Mkawa and he will combine all the kits and ship them to me. I will then split that cost between the individuals, this way you will only pay shipping from me ( USA, Conus ) to you + the split cost of shipping to me instead of paying shipping twice ( Thank you Mkawa ).
If you don't have the switches, I can purchase them ( 50 pack ) from Mechanicalkeyboards for $29 including shipping
Colors available as of this post from MK
RED
BLUE
GREEN
BROWN
BLACK
GRAY
WHITE
CLEAR
Some of the switches will require me to convert them from PCB to plate by clipping the two legs off, this will not affect the switch in any way.
I can also do a ergo-clear mod if you purchase / send me the springs.
I am including free diodes / resistor / led on caps lock ( blue / red / purple ) / spacebar stabilizer / usb connector / usb cable for the teensy with the assembly, you will still need to buy a teensy 2.0 which will be offered later and your choice of switches from MK or the ones you want to send me.
Spots taken / available:
1. Vibex
2. GSimon
3. babyeatinwu
4. byker
5.
These will be assembled and sent out in the order of purchase.
i think it makes a lot more sense for EU customers who want construction to go with margo
http://tinyurl.com/p64c2wy (http://tinyurl.com/p64c2wy)
I am offering FREE assembly service for the first 5 individuals ( just post in the thread ) that perhaps don't have any soldering equipment but would still want to purchase this keyboard.
I would prefer it to be in the USA, all I ask is for you to pay the shipping.
If you are happy with the assembly and want to send any money for the service please message Mkawa so that he can get the money to Smallfry's family.
**** IF YOU ARE INTERESTED IN THIS SERVICE PM ME SO THAT I CAN GIVE YOU INSTRUCTIONS ON WHAT TO PUT IN THE NOTES WHEN ORDERING THE KEYBOARD****
I have spoken with Mkawa and he will combine all the kits and ship them to me. I will then split that cost between the individuals, this way you will only pay shipping from me ( USA, Conus ) to you + the split cost of shipping to me instead of paying shipping twice ( Thank you Mkawa ).
If you don't have the switches, I can purchase them ( 50 pack ) from Mechanicalkeyboards for $29 including shipping
Colors available as of this post from MK
RED
BLUE
GREEN
BROWN
BLACK
GRAY
WHITE
CLEAR
Some of the switches will require me to convert them from PCB to plate by clipping the two legs off, this will not affect the switch in any way.
I can also do a ergo-clear mod if you purchase / send me the springs.
I am including free diodes / resistor / led on caps lock ( blue / red / purple ) / spacebar stabilizer / usb connector / usb cable for the teensy with the assembly, you will still need to buy a teensy 2.0 which will be offered later and your choice of switches from MK or the ones you want to send me.Spots taken / available:
1. Vibex
2. GSimon
3. babyeatinwu
4.
5.
These will be assembled and sent out in the order of purchase.
There are still 2 spots open.
-snip-
May I take a spot please? If you are willing to ship to Canada at my cost..
Will the plates with cutouts be andonized as well?yah, with few exceptions, there's no point sending those out before the rest of the kit goes out, so they can be dipped with everything else.
http://tinyurl.com/p64c2wy (http://tinyurl.com/p64c2wy)
Link doesn't work
color preferences form (http://tinyurl.com/p64c2wy)
Where do you get the colour options?
Where do you get the colour options?
Is the grey like, titanium grey? I assume so.yep
titanium grey is slightly darker than the raw titanium. since this is anodizing you'll still see the titanium grain though.
and if you don't specify an anodizing choice, yes, it will be unanodized
I'm having such a hard picking colors. ;-;
I'm having such a hard picking colors. ;-;
Me too!
I'm having such a hard picking colors. ;-;
Me too!
Hard...time? On? Both?
This is seriously tempting especially with anodizing and bronze as an option to boot. 40% seems like a huge jump from full size though. I still am seriously jumping in for the cause if nothing else.
anyone know how to embed an image in a google form? XD
I am offering FREE assembly service for the first 5 individuals ( just post in the thread ) that perhaps don't have any soldering equipment but would still want to purchase this keyboard.
I would prefer it to be in the USA, all I ask is for you to pay the shipping.
If you are happy with the assembly and want to send any money for the service please message Mkawa so that he can get the money to Smallfry's family.
**** IF YOU ARE INTERESTED IN THIS SERVICE PM ME SO THAT I CAN GIVE YOU INSTRUCTIONS ON WHAT TO PUT IN THE NOTES WHEN ORDERING THE KEYBOARD****
I have spoken with Mkawa and he will combine all the kits and ship them to me. I will then split that cost between the individuals, this way you will only pay shipping from me ( USA, Conus ) to you + the split cost of shipping to me instead of paying shipping twice ( Thank you Mkawa ).
If you don't have the switches, I can purchase them ( 50 pack ) from Mechanicalkeyboards for $29 including shipping
Colors available as of this post from MK
RED
BLUE
GREEN
BROWN
BLACK
GRAY
WHITE
CLEAR
Some of the switches will require me to convert them from PCB to plate by clipping the two legs off, this will not affect the switch in any way.
I can also do a ergo-clear mod if you purchase / send me the springs.
I am including free diodes / resistor / led on caps lock ( blue / red / purple ) / spacebar stabilizer / usb connector / usb cable for the teensy with the assembly, you will still need to buy a teensy 2.0 which will be offered later and your choice of switches from MK or the ones you want to send me.Spots taken / available:
1. Vibex
2. GSimon
3. babyeatinwu
4.
5.
These will be assembled and sent out in the order of purchase.
There are still 2 spots open.
May I take a spot please? If you are willing to ship to Canada at my cost..
I'm a little confused, is this kit still able to be purchased?
Can I take the other spot if it's available? I scanned the thread, but it looked like #4 was the last request.
we're currently way under all the minimums. just too few respondents at this point.
we're currently way under all the minimums. just too few respondents at this point.
If our selected colors don't reach MOQ, will we have the opportunity to change our order to select a color that did? Or will we just receive unanodized?
Thanks again for doing this! So excited :)
we're currently way under all the minimums. just too few respondents at this point.
If our selected colors don't reach MOQ, will we have the opportunity to change our order to select a color that did? Or will we just receive unanodized?
Thanks again for doing this! So excited :)
If I recall correctly those colors that do not reach MOQ will be asked to pick from the colors that did.
dark blue, titan gray, and vector purple are currently leading, with about 35% of current orders responding. have to say, good taste.
dark blue, titan gray, and vector purple are currently leading, with about 35% of current orders responding. have to say, good taste.
Where does raw titanium fall at?
dark blue, titan gray, and vector purple are currently leading, with about 35% of current orders responding. have to say, good taste.
dark blue, titan gray, and vector purple are currently leading, with about 35% of current orders responding. have to say, good taste.
If I want a color that doesn't end up getting the required support, what's the price to buy it out and make sure it happens? My vector purple is doing great, but I'm only interested in that top color if I can also get the bottom to be aqua.
line item minimum is 35$ for colors, 90$ for titan gray. titan gray is actually a different type of anodize that hardens the titanium surface (color anodizing requires an extremely quick dip as the color changes over a period of seconds). here's an example of a type II titan gray anodize:Show Image(http://anodizetitanium.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/09/medical-anodizing-type-2-titanium-parts-300x275.jpg)
their type II might be a little lighter from the images, but that's the basic idea.
****, only $35 bucks? I'm totally in if that's all it will cost to get the color I want. :thumb:
personally, i have to say i'd go for a green/seafoam combo. man that seafoam looks good
you should be able to edit your answerpersonally, i have to say i'd go for a green/seafoam combo. man that seafoam looks good
Can I go in and redo the google doc? I am having second guesses on the colour choice I made haha
Just have to double check before I actually order the 440 LED's.
The point was that I bought two boards, 40+40=80. So the 440 Was 4x110 packs with Orange, White, Green and Red LED's. Still alot left over, but I would be able to have two board in the same color or with different colors.Just have to double check before I actually order the 440 LED's.
You'd have alot left over! There are only 40 keys on the PCB!!
Also sadly, The PCB only supports the capslock LED. (Going from the image of the PCB on the product page, none of the LED spots are connected.)
I could in theory just solder all the LED's and connect them manually right?yep!
Because it would look so bad ass wtih LED's and the MAX keyboards transculent black keycaps witch I was going to buy.
the smallfry board won't output SDL aka PS2, so that wouldn't really be possible
Question about anodizing Titanium:
Does the colour fade/lighten/gets fingerprints easily like brushed aluminum?
The only piece of anodized titanium I have is a small wrench I got from massdrop. The blue was really vivid upon receiving it, but after touching it a couple times, it seems to have faded into a gray-blue. Was my Ti wrench just poorly anodized?
Picture example:
Top half- Barely touched, still blue at the edge
Sides - Noticeable fading
Bottom half - Rubbed my finger on it a couple times, and started "fading".Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/b4vk4g9.jpg)
I finally went with seafoam (for now) because that's the one I keep coming back to. Also titan gray for the bottom, because I can pick two colors so wynaut.
as spopepro said, you're not rubbing the oxide layer off. you're just getting it dirty.
titan gray is a a titanium type II anodize. http://www.danco.net/PDF-DOWNLOADS/ADVANTAGES.pdf
i actually don't know how this differs from color anodizing of titanium. color anodizing is just very minor variations of TiO2 layer thicknesses. very very minor. i've talked at length before about the refractory nature of titanium surfaces. the characteristic silver-gray color of titanium is due to the sparseness of titanium crystals and a thin oxide layer that forms on the surface (titanium oxidized _extremely_ quickly). increasing the thickness causes the refractory behavior to differ with wavelength even more. hence, color!
type II anodization, if it's anything like aluminum anodization, may just be a very thick layer of TiO2. this could explain why it's very matte and non-reflective.
yep. that's the huge difference between titanium anodizing and aluminum anodizing, and the incredibly unique look of anodized titanium. to color anodize aluminum, you oxidize a layer and then before the crystals form, you trap dye into the layer. dye is a boring way to color. wave cancellation. now THAT'S exciting :)
yep. that's the huge difference between titanium anodizing and aluminum anodizing, and the incredibly unique look of anodized titanium. to color anodize aluminum, you oxidize a layer and then before the crystals form, you trap dye into the layer. dye is a boring way to color. wave cancellation. now THAT'S exciting :)It's a matter of interference and the colour is dependent on the thickness of the oxide layer.
wave cancellation. now THAT'S exciting :)Which is indeed very exciting!
I sort of want one of these, but I really don't have much money right now. How long do you think these will last mkawa?at the current rate, i would guess a couple more weeks.
yep. that's the huge difference between titanium anodizing and aluminum anodizing, and the incredibly unique look of anodized titanium. to color anodize aluminum, you oxidize a layer and then before the crystals form, you trap dye into the layer. dye is a boring way to color. wave cancellation. now THAT'S exciting :)It's a matter of interference and the colour is dependent on the thickness of the oxide layer.
Yes, the physics behind it is wave cancellation.
wave cancellation. now THAT'S exciting :)Which is indeed very exciting!
I've never had titanium anodized before, does it change the texture of the surface like Anodizing aluminum does?
i almost have a full prototype. just waiting on the gasket samples now.
i'm looking over the anodizing spreadsheet and in total number of items, we're just barely over MOQ for our quoted pricing, regardless of color. i would very much appreciate it if you could prod your friends to fill out the form, even if it's just to say that they prefer raw titan. we have about 20 orders with no entry at the moment.
also, in total number of orders, we're just at the border of using the last two sheets of plate. again, please let your friends and other buds know about this GB. things get a bit tricky if i can't populate those last two sheets.
that said, orders are not stagnant at all, and i've had a lot of contact with people who aren't familiar with geekhack but are ordering the kit. so maybe it's more of a "keep up the good work! we're almost there!" rather than otherwise
one more thing: titan gray is over MOQ and is probably the most popular. vector purple is also going crazy. nice job! i think these colors are going to look amazing on this board.
i don't do email-direct marketing via geekhackers. our privacy policy specifically states that we will not bombard you with newsletters if you make a purchase. there is no opt-in. everyone is opted-out of direct marketing.
i don't do email-direct marketing via geekhackers. our privacy policy specifically states that we will not bombard you with newsletters if you make a purchase. there is no opt-in. everyone is opted-out of direct marketing.
bronze isn't that far away from making line item minimum. oddly, the most endangered colors right now are the ones that i thought would be the most popular. the blues are kind of fragmented, and there's a single lone green plate right now (although quite a few seafoams, so i have to approve there).
i don't do email-direct marketing via geekhackers. our privacy policy specifically states that we will not bombard you with newsletters if you make a purchase. there is no opt-in. everyone is opted-out of direct marketing.
didn't see many magentasbronze isn't that far away from making line item minimum. oddly, the most endangered colors right now are the ones that i thought would be the most popular. the blues are kind of fragmented, and there's a single lone green plate right now (although quite a few seafoams, so i have to approve there).
How is magenta??
Just watched the video, and now I'm even more excited!
as spopepro said, you're not rubbing the oxide layer off. you're just getting it dirty.
ps can you let me know if gold isn't going to make MOQ. I REALLY want gold.
haha, just gold gold.
i'm doing a gold and black everythang theme :)
i would never be able to decide on another color and THEN decide which color goes on top.
Wow. I'm gonna have to make this my first build. Wish me luck.
bumpwat
PM sent to you, IMHB.
i had another unfortunate incident with my car last night. and ended up spending the night on the shoulder of the 405 waiting 5 hours for a tow. i'll get to the polish and build, but i need transportation first. oof, again. in other news i'm an idiot. these two facts may be related.
in other news, i'm asking the sorbothane people if they can coat the gaskets so they're not so sticky.
material has landed at the grinder. will be done before the 4th, and cutting will hopefully start next week.
so to confirm, we need this kit, a Teensy, and switches and caps to complete the build?
so to confirm, we need this kit, a Teensy, and switches and caps to complete the build?
And one of these (http://www.digikey.com/product-search/en?WT.z_header=search_go&lang=en&site=us&keywords=WM17115-ND&x=9&y=20&formaction=on), and one of these (http://www.amazon.com/dp/B00E1JMK0O).
Well, if you don't want to attach your USB cable directly to the Teensy, anyway. :)
Wait, is the male end necessary for connecting the Teensy to the PCB? And is it really surface mount? Also, what's the thing (resistor? diode?) that goes next to the caps lock key? It looks significantly different than the other diodes.
DONE ORDERING!
Well, now all I need to do is to wait for my 1st all-golden keyboard....
just go on the site and order. it'll show you the prices
if you don't see your order number there and you have a preference that is NOT raw titanium, please fill out the form.
.
i'm currently working on sourcing costar stabilizers. JD and i previously talked about teensies, and will probably revisit it on tuesday. i should be able to put a listing up at that point. unfortunately, i may go a bit dark on this for a little while. i am out of town until tuesday. the cutters will start work on their end of production around mid or late-week, and we will have to coordinate a few things for the day or so i'm in town to make sure our design can be cut using the method we formulated. the end of week is keycon, so while you'll be seeing plenty of me on the forum and the livestream, i'll be busy with that.
Thanks for clearing the USB part up; just ordered those connectors. I'm still confused about the thing near the caps lock key, specifically thisShow Image(http://i.imgur.com/4YKvain.png)component. What is it, do I need it, and where can I buy it?
Well I already ordered, I'm just wondering if I should vote for what I want or what I'll get. I.E., I want Titan Gray, but I'm not sure it's worth $90 to me.anodizing will not cost anything more. it's an option that is covered by your purchase costs. there is an issue with some colors not meeting MOQ, but titan gray is way way over the MOQ, so no worries there. just fill out the form and specify titan gray and you're good to go!
by the way, unless there's a lot of preference in another direction, i'm going to go with socket head cap screws. imo they look the best.
by the way, unless there's a lot of preference in another direction, i'm going to go with socket head cap screws. imo they look the best.
Wait, is the male end necessary for connecting the Teensy to the PCB? And is it really surface mount? Also, what's the thing (resistor? diode?) that goes next to the caps lock key? It looks significantly different than the other diodes.
If you don't want to plug the USB cable directly into the Teensy, which is located on the underside of the PCB under the spacebar, then yes, you need that part. You need to solder four wires to it (don't know why they call it surface mount), and solder those into four holes with solder pads in that vicinity on the PCB. Traces run from there to the solder points for the through hole USB receptacle on the rear edge of the PCB.
None of the switches have traces for LED backlighting, except for the "caps lock" switch location. The holes next to the LED holes have the traces for the indicator LED, so if you want a Caps Lock indicator, you need to bridge the LED solder points to the adjacent pads.
IMO, microUSB are easier to come by, and for the convenience sake, some people might want to have it as a choice. What do you guys think? (:
hmm, if countersunk screws aren't possible, then what about something like this? Small dimple for the screws + almost flush to the plate (Keeping the screw as low profile as possible, so cleaning the plate is still doable)
Also+1 to hex screws.
I'm not quite sure what the special names for these are...Show Image(http://www.los168.com/upload/20101105/20101105163452746.jpg)
+Show Image(http://img2.en.china.cn/0/2_112_29032_450_327.jpg)
Have the second picture type screws on the top, and hide the hex screws on the bottom?
hmm, if countersunk screws aren't possible, then what about something like this? Small dimple for the screws + almost flush to the plate (Keeping the screw as low profile as possible, so cleaning the plate is still doable)
Also+1 to hex screws.
I'm not quite sure what the special names for these are...Show Image(http://www.los168.com/upload/20101105/20101105163452746.jpg)
+Show Image(http://img2.en.china.cn/0/2_112_29032_450_327.jpg)
Have the second picture type screws on the top, and hide the hex screws on the bottom?
I'll build 5 of these if people don't want to do themselves - will be $25 per board which I will donate 100% of.note that margo is in the EU
I will offer the same in the US. Located fairly central in Iowa. I would like to note this would just be the physical assembly. I don't have enough experience in the software side to feel comfortable doing firmware.
I just used countersink screws in normal holes on my metaldox, and it worked out really well. They stick up a bit but it's not bad. Those screws ming likes are nice, but they stick up a lot off the plate: not for everyone.
I think panhead / domehead look nice.
ofcourse since I still haven't ordered one I guess I can't vote.
You can see them in my photo set for the metaldox here:
https://www.flickr.com/photos/dork_vader/sets/72157644268864709/
especially https://flic.kr/p/nBAVEd
trusses are generally too wide
here are two options that look pretty reasonable:
http://www.mcmaster.com/#socket-head-cap-screws/=sr9i5k
http://www.mcmaster.com/#socket-head-cap-screws/=sr9ijt
otherwise i would lean toward full size cap head or regular old pan-head machine screws.
Is it me or do both those link to a general page full of diff screws?
Picked up a bronze/bronze :)
there are 15 left, and i've been getting appx an order every other day, so you should be good
next step is getting the titan cut to spec by the way. everything depends on this, so JD and i will be checking this very closely.
there are 15 left, and i've been getting appx an order every other day, so you should be good
next step is getting the titan cut to spec by the way. everything depends on this, so JD and i will be checking this very closely.
Wait, Vibex has the sorbothane gasket in his? Need pics nao :)I'll get a photo as soon as I can, but I have a very busy weekend. Not sure when I'll be able to get one.
most likely it will be just the pcb
PCB, plates and fasteners.
Picked up a bronze/bronze :)
Picked up a bronze/bronze :)
Changed my vote to bronze/bronze as well. Sounds classy. :thumb:
yah, sorry about that. they were supposed to be low profile cap head and low profile button heads.
small hex head is actually a good option too.
anyway, just a heads up. there are maybe 17? units left in this batch, and orders are starting to pick up again. if you are on the fence, i'd suggest getting off of it mighty quick :P
Picked up a bronze/bronze :)
Changed my vote to bronze/bronze as well. Sounds classy. :thumb:
Picked up a bronze/bronze :)
Changed my vote to bronze/bronze as well. Sounds classy. :thumb:
All you bronze supporters are just so great :thumb:
Come on guys, no love for raw titanium?
Come on guys, no love for raw titanium?
I'm currently down for grey, but I've been on the fence about switching back to raw. Since there aren't any production samples to compare to -- like any group buy -- it's hard to make a qualified decision. :-\
I just don't have enough experience with titanium to really know what to expect.
does that mean it's not really s problem to reanodize it to another color?
unalloyed titanium is so difficult to anodize tp a single consistent color across a single part that it's pretty much impossible to try anodization at home unless you want a multi-colored rainbow sort of thing.does that mean it's not really s problem to reanodize it to another color?
Yes and no. If you want to go to a color that is higher on the voltage range I believe you can. If you want to go to a color that is lower on the voltage range you will have to mechanically remove the old coating. Mkawa might be able to correct me if I am a little off in my train of thought.
hey everyone. i've been living off a phone for internet and the floor for sleeping for the last week and have been unable to keep on schedule with production on this. as i mentioned before, we're being very careful with the waterjet cut of the plates. we need to make sure that the tolerances we're getting for the cheaper cut method we're using will be sufficient and if not, we will rejigger the drawing to make sure the plates come out properly. to this end, the WJ has been waiting to make a sample cut for me while i, ironically, move out of his area. thankfully, i've found someone down south to pick up the samples and post them to me so that i can take the necessary measurements and check fitment. since we're dealing with cuts on 3000$ worth of metal stock here, i am not going to screw around with the final cut. measure 10 times, cut once. my unavailability has delayed this process about 3 weeks now, unfortunately, but now that i'm slightly more stable (i'm at least sleeping on a couch right now), jd and i can go over the samples and drawings with a fine toothed comb.
in the next order of business, in fitting vibex's gasket, he found an interesting property which could be either a feature or a potential pitfall. basically, a fastener system that is a single long bolt coming in from the top through a hole in the sorbothane and a nut at the bottom to secure the bolt allows you to squish the gasket to nearly whatever height you want on each of the four corners. the gasket is nominally 1/2" in height, but is very squishy, as it's 30O material. this is cool in that you can build in your own slant at the top of the keyboard, as there is a little extra room between the bottom plate and the PCB (the teensy is the real reason it must be 1/2", otherwise it could be much thinner). however, it's a bit harder to get exactly 1/2" on all four corners. you have to manually measure the distance between plates as you tighten the nut.
JD's original design uses a spacer nut that is exactly 1/2" ad then is secured to each plate by a machine screw. this is a nice solution and looks nice when you don't use the gasket, but you won't be able to see the spacer if you use the gasket, and the spacer nuts are bit pricey, actually. anyway, curious to hear what options people would prefer.
finally, people have been asking about pricing on teensies. frankly, we can't give a much lower price than pjrc on teensies. the MOQ on quantity pricing is larger than our total possible order, so the only real benefit is that we can save internationals some shipping costs by buying teensies and packing them with the kits. my feeling is that i should just put the teensies up on the shop for pjrc's pricing (because that's pretty much what we're going to pay), and you will be able to put your kit order number in the notes for combined shipping. thoughts?
Its not hard. I built my dox and had never soldered before. I then built another for a friend. I love doing it. I wouldn't mind building yours either!
vibex has a gasket installed and is probably the best source of pics at the moment, i'm trying to source stabs today. teensies at 18 at PJRC, so that would be the price, more or less.
Its not hard. I built my dox and had never soldered before. I then built another for a friend. I love doing it. I wouldn't mind building yours either!
I might take that offer.. lol
Hm, so how else is everyone sourcing the rest of the parts anyway?
And how much longer will these be sold? I kinda want to wait for my next paycheck (the 10th) first..
Well either way, I definitely cant go for it before my next paycheck, already splurged a lot this month lol.
So if this is still available by August 10th, I'll probably hop on it.
I still dont understand how a 40% sized keyboard can still be useful though.
stabs are a lock, courtesy wasdkeyboards. i'll put up those and the teensies at 0 shipping cost pretty soon with instructions to specify your kit order number when placing your order. there isn't a heck of a lot else needed to build the unit.
instead of the learn to solder kit, please consider the cl1481 and stand kit @ 69 or 79.99 (forget what the pricing is) instead. it's a very affordable starter kit that you can add the other parts onto as your need them
http://www.geekhackers.org/collections/soldering-tools-and-supplies/products/edsyn-cl1481-soldering-iron
stabs are a lock, courtesy wasdkeyboards. i'll put up those and the teensies at 0 shipping cost pretty soon with instructions to specify your kit order number when placing your order. there isn't a heck of a lot else needed to build the unit.
instead of the learn to solder kit, please consider the cl1481 and stand kit @ 69 or 79.99 (forget what the pricing is) instead. it's a very affordable starter kit that you can add the other parts onto as your need them
http://www.geekhackers.org/collections/soldering-tools-and-supplies/products/edsyn-cl1481-soldering-iron
So do we have to use costar stabilizers?
It's not a limitation of the plate, if that's what you're asking. You could also use a plate mount Cherry stabilizer. No holes in the PCB for PCB-mount, though.
So Vibex: have you written a review of that sorbothane gasket yet? Also, pictures!Sorry that it took me so long, I kept putting it off. Here are a few potato pics that I took with my phone.
So Vibex: have you written a review of that sorbothane gasket yet? Also, pictures!Sorry that it took me so long, I kept putting it off. Here are a few potato pics that I took with my phone.
(Attachment Link)
(Attachment Link)
As for a review, I'll just type a brief overview of the difference in feel. There is far less vibration in the case when I type. It feels more solid and is slightly quieter (though I'm using browns already, so they aren't that loud anyway). I think I prefer the gasket over the individual spacers. I also prefer the aesthetic of the gasket more as well. It takes a ton of time to get it placed properly in the case though. If anyone has any specific questions please ask.
Thanks for the pic. It seems the gasket isn't perfectly aligned with the plate edges. Is it due to some pressure on the gasket? Appearance looks less appealing but functionality sounds better.The gasket that is coming with all of the GB boards won't be sticky, so it will be easier to place correctly. The one I have keeps getting stuck to my wrist wrest and shifting it. That is why it is so misaligned. It shouldn't be as bad for everyone else.
I can't conclude what I prefer. :P
Oh wow. That looks awesome. I'm glad I managed to get a hold of a Granite set!
Thanks for the pic. It seems the gasket isn't perfectly aligned with the plate edges. Is it due to some pressure on the gasket? Appearance looks less appealing but functionality sounds better.The gasket that is coming with all of the GB boards won't be sticky, so it will be easier to place correctly. The one I have keeps getting stuck to my wrist wrest and shifting it. That is why it is so misaligned. It shouldn't be as bad for everyone else.
I can't conclude what I prefer. :POh wow. That looks awesome. I'm glad I managed to get a hold of a Granite set!
There are some much better shots of it in the Keycon Media threads. They got to use real cameras for there photos while I'm stuck with a phone.
Well either way, I definitely cant go for it before my next paycheck, already splurged a lot this month lol.
So if this is still available by August 10th, I'll probably hop on it.
I still dont understand how a 40% sized keyboard can still be useful though.
I use mine for portability. But the tiny footprint on my desk is actually really nice.
I have the bottom two corners set as function layer keys and have every key available to me. :)
The PTFE coating is going to get rid of the stickiness problems that vibex is having, and it should be easier to adjust as well. One negative thing about the PTFE coating though is that it won't take paint...
The gasket is definitely a bit squishy, but that's actually a functional thing. If it weren't squishy, you wouldn't get the deadening effect out of it
Is the gasket basically the same as my minimal case? Or is there no metal back plate at all with you gasket version?The gasket replaces the spacers between the top and bottom plates found on some minimal keyboards, so that they’re connected by something squishy rather than rigid. The design isn’t quite like your minimal case.
I need to take pictures of my JD40 to show what I have done. Maybe I can do that tonight.
if you really don't want a gasket, i can accommodate that, no problem, since i haven't ordered the gasket run yet.
i'll get a google form up for gasket vs spacer choices (it seems like most people who don't want gaskets are following the thread) up when i get a moment to breathe (i'm currently couch surfing among other things, oy vey!)
Is the gasket basically the same as my minimal case? Or is there no metal back plate at all with you gasket version?The gasket replaces the spacers between the top and bottom plates found on some minimal keyboards, so that they’re connected by something squishy rather than rigid. The design isn’t quite like your minimal case.
I need to take pictures of my JD40 to show what I have done. Maybe I can do that tonight.
Yes, the holes for LEDs are there, but with no traces to anything. So you can definitely hand wire LEDs however you want them. You'll just have to pull +5V from the USB somewhere. If I had been a little more forward thinking, I would have had regack put a couple of holes from the power and ground connections to run the LEDs.
And you are correct in that the caps lock indicator are the adjacent holes to the LED holes in that one switch position.
Okay so I believe I am officially in this buy now lol. A gentleman in need gave me an extra reason to throw my money in this haha.
Now I just need to do research on the rest of the parts needed...
I'm still not clear on what other parts we're working on to get a GB for? >.>
EDIT:
So after browsing through the thread:
We still need to purchase Teensy controllers, but you're working on a way for us to get a slightly cheaper rate.
We need 40 switches, sourced by ourselves.
We need 2 plate mounted cherry stabs.
As for LEDs....Yes, the holes for LEDs are there, but with no traces to anything. So you can definitely hand wire LEDs however you want them. You'll just have to pull +5V from the USB somewhere. If I had been a little more forward thinking, I would have had regack put a couple of holes from the power and ground connections to run the LEDs.
And you are correct in that the caps lock indicator are the adjacent holes to the LED holes in that one switch position.
So how would we hook up LEDs on this board? Bare wires running all over the back? ):
i will be starting another buy on notched top plates shortly
i will be starting another buy on notched top plates shortly
Are we able to substitute the plate in our smallfry order for the notched ones or do we have to buy the notched plate separately?
Just a quick question, will the top plate come cut out to be able to put in the switches?it will be sold as a substitution/upgrade
...and here we go!
http://www.geekhackers.org/products/jd40-40-keyboard-titanium-switch-plates-with-notches-for-switch-disassembly
the pricing is set as an upgrade for existing smallfry keyboard kit orders. i'll see what the demand is for upgrades and then open it up again for individual plate orders independent of smallfry kits if there is material left.
...and here we go!
http://www.geekhackers.org/products/jd40-40-keyboard-titanium-switch-plates-with-notches-for-switch-disassembly
the pricing is set as an upgrade for existing smallfry keyboard kit orders. i'll see what the demand is for upgrades and then open it up again for individual plate orders independent of smallfry kits if there is material left.
...and here we go!
http://www.geekhackers.org/products/jd40-40-keyboard-titanium-switch-plates-with-notches-for-switch-disassembly
the pricing is set as an upgrade for existing smallfry keyboard kit orders. i'll see what the demand is for upgrades and then open it up again for individual plate orders independent of smallfry kits if there is material left.
This is the top plate with the holes, not just traces of where to cut, right? Therefore, if I don't buy the 'upgrade' I will have to get the top plate cut myself in order to build the keyboard, correct?
So, the base kit's top plate should arrive pre-machined, correct?
Here's another question.. How much would it cost to get a spare PCB if I dont want to buy one of the soldering kits on the site?
I've been eyeing a Hakko cordless soldering iron (which supposedly works very well for a whole 2 hours).
ordered. but during checkout, I had to pay shipping again. :( will this be refunded somewhen?already refunded and bug fixed. it won't charge anyone shipping again for this upgrade
Here's another question.. How much would it cost to get a spare PCB if I dont want to buy one of the soldering kits on the site?
I've been eyeing a Hakko cordless soldering iron (which supposedly works very well for a whole 2 hours).
I'm also interested in a spare but would rather avoid the import cost of buying a soldering kit from the US.
Here's another question.. How much would it cost to get a spare PCB if I dont want to buy one of the soldering kits on the site?eeks! butane-powered soldering irons are _not_ appropriate for beginners or precise electronics work. they're for field technicians and plumbers.
I've been eyeing a Hakko cordless soldering iron (which supposedly works very well for a whole 2 hours).
Here's another question.. How much would it cost to get a spare PCB if I dont want to buy one of the soldering kits on the site?
I've been eyeing a Hakko cordless soldering iron (which supposedly works very well for a whole 2 hours).
I'm also interested in a spare but would rather avoid the import cost of buying a soldering kit from the US.
i have yet to encounter issues with customs exporting soldering equipment to the UK. the bigger issue is that the basic cl1481 kit is 110v only. works fine with a good step-down transformer, but i can't provide one :(
yah, hold on. let me check the shipping settings again.
...and here we go!
http://www.geekhackers.org/products/jd40-40-keyboard-titanium-switch-plates-with-notches-for-switch-disassembly
the pricing is set as an upgrade for existing smallfry keyboard kit orders. i'll see what the demand is for upgrades and then open it up again for individual plate orders independent of smallfry kits if there is material left.
What's different between this upgraded cutout plate, and the one sold before? Price was a lot higher for the first round.
Btw, for Teensy, what version do we need please? Remember there are v2 and 3
These "upgraded" plates are just that, meaning that you get the upgraded plate with cutouts for easy switch top opening, but you don't get the standard plate that you originally ordered. The reason they are more expensive is that the upgraded plates must be laser cut with high tolerances, where the standard plates are cut by water jet.
@Zeal, if I remember correctly, those plates from the first round were sold as standalone units. These "upgraded" plates are just that, meaning that you get the upgraded plate with cutouts for easy switch top opening, but you don't get the standard plate that you originally ordered. The reason they are more expensive is that the upgraded plates must be laser cut with high tolerances, where the standard plates are cut by water jet.Is that how it's working. Can I change my standalone plate to an upgrade plate. I only need one, and I could always use the extra cash back.
Is that how it's working. Can I change my standalone plate to an upgrade plate. I only need one, and I could always use the extra cash back.
Here's another question.. How much would it cost to get a spare PCB if I dont want to buy one of the soldering kits on the site?eeks! butane-powered soldering irons are _not_ appropriate for beginners or precise electronics work. they're for field technicians and plumbers.
I've been eyeing a Hakko cordless soldering iron (which supposedly works very well for a whole 2 hours).
Here's another question.. How much would it cost to get a spare PCB if I dont want to buy one of the soldering kits on the site?eeks! butane-powered soldering irons are _not_ appropriate for beginners or precise electronics work. they're for field technicians and plumbers.
I've been eyeing a Hakko cordless soldering iron (which supposedly works very well for a whole 2 hours).
o_O its a battery powered soldering iron lol.
http://www.amazon.com/Hakko-FX-901-Cordless-Soldering-Iron/dp/B00FZPUA28
not to sound like a broken record, but the process temp for kester 44 leaded is 350C. anything that can't maintain a constant 350C is not an appropriate soldering iron.
Here's another question.. How much would it cost to get a spare PCB if I dont want to buy one of the soldering kits on the site?eeks! butane-powered soldering irons are _not_ appropriate for beginners or precise electronics work. they're for field technicians and plumbers.
I've been eyeing a Hakko cordless soldering iron (which supposedly works very well for a whole 2 hours).
o_O its a battery powered soldering iron lol.
http://www.amazon.com/Hakko-FX-901-Cordless-Soldering-Iron/dp/B00FZPUA28
OMG a battery powered soldering iron is a horrible idea. why do they even exist? just get an iron from mkawa or something like a hako fx-888d...
anywhere around 350c on an 888d is good to go. i found in practice that my calibration drifted around 10C a month. a high prec ADC and uC control is great unless the tiny heater changes thermal efficiency every week :|not to sound like a broken record, but the process temp for kester 44 leaded is 350C. anything that can't maintain a constant 350C is not an appropriate soldering iron.
Ya, I might be running my iron a little bit hot, but I have my hako fx-888d set to 685ºF using the smallest chisel tip I have (.8mm?). It feels like a nice working temp since I think the smaller tip dissipates heat faster than a bigger tip. When desoldering, I have to be patient and use a little extra solder to on each joint to get the solder to flow nicely before I solder suck...
@Zeal, if I remember correctly, those plates from the first round were sold as standalone units. These "upgraded" plates are just that, meaning that you get the upgraded plate with cutouts for easy switch top opening, but you don't get the standard plate that you originally ordered. The reason they are more expensive is that the upgraded plates must be laser cut with high tolerances, where the standard plates are cut by water jet.
@fatchoi, ONLY the Teensy 2.0 will work with this PCB. Not the ++ 2.0, nor the 3.0, nor the 3.1.
i'm guesstimating the yield of notched plates, but there are currently 16 left after... 18 hours :P
i think i forgot to mention this, but stabs will be included with all kits due to an extremely generous donation from abjr
i think i forgot to mention this, but stabs will be included with all kits due to an extremely generous donation from abjr
i think i forgot to mention this, but stabs will be included with all kits due to an extremely generous donation from abjr
Great news. Thanks to abjr
exactement!i think i forgot to mention this, but stabs will be included with all kits due to an extremely generous donation from abjr
So that includes the plate mounted part, the bar, and the two bits for the key itself right?
Glad I didn't order those too lol. Was some ridiculous price on mechkb .com
EDIT: and thank you abjr :D
By the way, is there any benefit to getting anodized Grey over raw titanium?
Kinda wish there was a way to get light grey or white lol.
By the way, is there any benefit to getting anodized Grey over raw titanium?
Kinda wish there was a way to get light grey or white lol.
There is, but it's called paint or powder coat. :)
Tammi at rainbowrpb.com is our official powdercoater and would be happy to powdercoat it for you. rainbow is in iowa, but it's not particularly expensive to send back and forth
about 1lb
teensies are now available here: http://www.geekhackers.org/products/teensy-v2-0-upgrade-for-smallfry-kit
Turn away from the thread for one week and this happens... looks like I'm dropping another $55 on this kit, potentially another $80 for the LTS kit... Oy vey. Will the LTS and plate upgrade ship with the Smallfry as well?
no, the shipping method should say "free shipping". grumble.
Paid for the upgraded plate, I assume (hoping that) the upgrade does not replace the plate that comes with the SmallFry kit, as I want 2 plates (1 notched, and the original plate that comes with the kit)
These "upgraded" plates are just that, meaning that you get the upgraded plate with cutouts for easy switch top opening, but you don't get the standard plate that you originally ordered. The reason they are more expensive is that the upgraded plates must be laser cut with high tolerances, where the standard plates are cut by water jet.
Darn, well, not sure if I can pay to keep the original plates as well? If so I'd like to be invoiced for that.
if there are extra plates of either type, i'll sell them first-come-first-served. nesting these plates is going to be a huge undertaking due to the multiple types of cutting, multiple drawings, and the need to fit in a run of 60% and 80% plates. at the moment, it will make my life about a hundred times easier if i'm pairing one top plate, notched or otherwise, with one bottom plate. the issue is that i originally planned my available kits based on the number of sheets i bought and the number of waterjet front and back pairs that could be yielded from each sheet and the number of notched plates that i had lasercut several weeks (?) ago.Paid for the upgraded plate, I assume (hoping that) the upgrade does not replace the plate that comes with the SmallFry kit, as I want 2 plates (1 notched, and the original plate that comes with the kit)These "upgraded" plates are just that, meaning that you get the upgraded plate with cutouts for easy switch top opening, but you don't get the standard plate that you originally ordered. The reason they are more expensive is that the upgraded plates must be laser cut with high tolerances, where the standard plates are cut by water jet.
Darn, well, not sure if I can pay to keep the original plates as well? If so I'd like to be invoiced for that.
Mkawa is there a way to make this happen?
if there are extra plates of either type, i'll sell them first-come-first-served. nesting these plates is going to be a huge undertaking due to the multiple types of cutting, multiple drawings, and the need to fit in a run of 60% and 80% plates. at the moment, it will make my life about a hundred times easier if i'm pairing one top plate, notched or otherwise, with one bottom plate. the issue is that i originally planned my available kits based on the number of sheets i bought and the number of waterjet front and back pairs that could be yielded from each sheet and the number of notched plates that i had lasercut several weeks (?) ago.
the waterjet plates are cut in one pass with two sheets stacked on top of each other, so i originally nested assuming identical cuts on all 6 sheets of stock. i'm already throwing this off a bit by tossing another sheet at my laser with 40%s on it, so I probably will have extra top plates, but i can't guarantee anything, as there are a number of nasty details involved in the waterjet cut, and another project vying for space on the next lasered sheet.
tldr; i'm knee deep in titanium, and trying to keep things as simple as possible. look for extra plates/gaskets/pcbs/etc.etc.etc. _after_ initial fulfillment :)
i think i forgot to mention this, but stabs will be included with all kits due to an extremely generous donation from abjr
Great news. Thanks to abjr
Thank you, abjr. :)
yep, just PM me or use the contact form and give me the two order numbers.
What/How many USB mini b connectors do I need? First time building a keyboard, and I'm not so sure; there are multiple types of connectors and such.Check out my reply in #467 of this thread. I'm on mobile, or I would quote it for you.
What/How many USB mini b connectors do I need? First time building a keyboard, and I'm not so sure; there are multiple types of connectors and such.Check out my reply in #467 of this thread. I'm on mobile, or I would quote it for you.
Okay so I believe I am officially in this buy now lol. A gentleman in need gave me an extra reason to throw my money in this haha.
Now I just need to do research on the rest of the parts needed...
I'm still not clear on what other parts we're working on to get a GB for? >.>
EDIT:
So after browsing through the thread:
We still need to purchase Teensy controllers, but you're working on a way for us to get a slightly cheaper rate.
We need 40 switches, sourced by ourselves.
We need 2 plate mounted cherry stabs.
You also need 40 through hole diodes, 1N4148, like this: http://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Rectron/1N4148-T/?qs=%2fha2pyFadujBpQKGz8pgpLoTumKo1yCTzfmbMAwUdzOTQ2PCHwWJdA%3d%3d (http://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Rectron/1N4148-T/?qs=%2fha2pyFadujBpQKGz8pgpLoTumKo1yCTzfmbMAwUdzOTQ2PCHwWJdA%3d%3d)
A through-hole USB Mini-B USB receptacle, like this: http://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Molex/54819-0519/?qs=sGAEpiMZZMtDa8bhoiaN7CKgHzoapfPd (http://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Molex/54819-0519/?qs=sGAEpiMZZMtDa8bhoiaN7CKgHzoapfPd)
And a male USB Mini-B end, SMD (cable end), like this: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00DUYV2JQ/ (http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00DUYV2JQ/)
What/How many USB mini b connectors do I need? First time building a keyboard, and I'm not so sure; there are multiple types of connectors and such.Check out my reply in #467 of this thread. I'm on mobile, or I would quote it for you.
You also need 40 through hole diodes, 1N4148, like this: http://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Rectron/1N4148-T/?qs=%2fha2pyFadujBpQKGz8pgpLoTumKo1yCTzfmbMAwUdzOTQ2PCHwWJdA%3d%3d
A through-hole USB Mini-B USB receptacle, like this: http://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Molex/54819-0519/?qs=sGAEpiMZZMtDa8bhoiaN7CKgHzoapfPd
And a male USB Mini-B end, SMD (cable end), like this: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00DUYV2JQ/
For anyone else interested, this was the best source I could find for Mini USB Type B male connectors with easy to solder tabs: http://www.ebay.com/itm/171366701979
Everything else was from china and might have actually taken longer to get here than the kit itself. lol
What/How many USB mini b connectors do I need? First time building a keyboard, and I'm not so sure; there are multiple types of connectors and such.Check out my reply in #467 of this thread. I'm on mobile, or I would quote it for you.
Here:You also need 40 through hole diodes, 1N4148, like this: http://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Rectron/1N4148-T/?qs=%2fha2pyFadujBpQKGz8pgpLoTumKo1yCTzfmbMAwUdzOTQ2PCHwWJdA%3d%3d (http://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Rectron/1N4148-T/?qs=%2fha2pyFadujBpQKGz8pgpLoTumKo1yCTzfmbMAwUdzOTQ2PCHwWJdA%3d%3d)
A through-hole USB Mini-B USB receptacle, like this: http://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Molex/54819-0519/?qs=sGAEpiMZZMtDa8bhoiaN7CKgHzoapfPd (http://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Molex/54819-0519/?qs=sGAEpiMZZMtDa8bhoiaN7CKgHzoapfPd)
And a male USB Mini-B end, SMD (cable end), like this: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00DUYV2JQ/ (http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00DUYV2JQ/)
I didnt like the amazon source provided above ^ because shipping time was an estimated 17-21 business days...
So I found this:For anyone else interested, this was the best source I could find for Mini USB Type B male connectors with easy to solder tabs: http://www.ebay.com/itm/171366701979 (http://www.ebay.com/itm/171366701979)
Everything else was from china and might have actually taken longer to get here than the kit itself. lol
What/How many USB mini b connectors do I need? First time building a keyboard, and I'm not so sure; there are multiple types of connectors and such.Check out my reply in #467 of this thread. I'm on mobile, or I would quote it for you.
Here:You also need 40 through hole diodes, 1N4148, like this: http://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Rectron/1N4148-T/?qs=%2fha2pyFadujBpQKGz8pgpLoTumKo1yCTzfmbMAwUdzOTQ2PCHwWJdA%3d%3d (http://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Rectron/1N4148-T/?qs=%2fha2pyFadujBpQKGz8pgpLoTumKo1yCTzfmbMAwUdzOTQ2PCHwWJdA%3d%3d)
A through-hole USB Mini-B USB receptacle, like this: http://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Molex/54819-0519/?qs=sGAEpiMZZMtDa8bhoiaN7CKgHzoapfPd (http://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Molex/54819-0519/?qs=sGAEpiMZZMtDa8bhoiaN7CKgHzoapfPd)
And a male USB Mini-B end, SMD (cable end), like this: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00DUYV2JQ/ (http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00DUYV2JQ/)
I didnt like the amazon source provided above ^ because shipping time was an estimated 17-21 business days...
So I found this:For anyone else interested, this was the best source I could find for Mini USB Type B male connectors with easy to solder tabs: http://www.ebay.com/itm/171366701979 (http://www.ebay.com/itm/171366701979)
Everything else was from china and might have actually taken longer to get here than the kit itself. lol
I got the ones from Amazon in ~10 days.
What/How many USB mini b connectors do I need? First time building a keyboard, and I'm not so sure; there are multiple types of connectors and such.Check out my reply in #467 of this thread. I'm on mobile, or I would quote it for you.
Here:You also need 40 through hole diodes, 1N4148, like this: http://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Rectron/1N4148-T/?qs=%2fha2pyFadujBpQKGz8pgpLoTumKo1yCTzfmbMAwUdzOTQ2PCHwWJdA%3d%3d (http://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Rectron/1N4148-T/?qs=%2fha2pyFadujBpQKGz8pgpLoTumKo1yCTzfmbMAwUdzOTQ2PCHwWJdA%3d%3d)
A through-hole USB Mini-B USB receptacle, like this: http://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Molex/54819-0519/?qs=sGAEpiMZZMtDa8bhoiaN7CKgHzoapfPd (http://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Molex/54819-0519/?qs=sGAEpiMZZMtDa8bhoiaN7CKgHzoapfPd)
And a male USB Mini-B end, SMD (cable end), like this: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00DUYV2JQ/ (http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00DUYV2JQ/)
I didnt like the amazon source provided above ^ because shipping time was an estimated 17-21 business days...
So I found this:For anyone else interested, this was the best source I could find for Mini USB Type B male connectors with easy to solder tabs: http://www.ebay.com/itm/171366701979 (http://www.ebay.com/itm/171366701979)
Everything else was from china and might have actually taken longer to get here than the kit itself. lol
I got the ones from Amazon in ~10 days.
Was it the same seller? All of the ones I found were from "uxcell"
The seller probably ships from China, and my experiences with that have been hit and miss. Sometimes it gets here quick, as if it was shipped from a far away state, sometimes it feels like it sailed over here on a row boat.
The price difference was minor and I didnt need 10 connectors, so I went with the US seller on ebay lol.
What/How many USB mini b connectors do I need? First time building a keyboard, and I'm not so sure; there are multiple types of connectors and such.Check out my reply in #467 of this thread. I'm on mobile, or I would quote it for you.
Here:You also need 40 through hole diodes, 1N4148, like this: http://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Rectron/1N4148-T/?qs=%2fha2pyFadujBpQKGz8pgpLoTumKo1yCTzfmbMAwUdzOTQ2PCHwWJdA%3d%3d (http://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Rectron/1N4148-T/?qs=%2fha2pyFadujBpQKGz8pgpLoTumKo1yCTzfmbMAwUdzOTQ2PCHwWJdA%3d%3d)
A through-hole USB Mini-B USB receptacle, like this: http://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Molex/54819-0519/?qs=sGAEpiMZZMtDa8bhoiaN7CKgHzoapfPd (http://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Molex/54819-0519/?qs=sGAEpiMZZMtDa8bhoiaN7CKgHzoapfPd)
And a male USB Mini-B end, SMD (cable end), like this: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00DUYV2JQ/ (http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00DUYV2JQ/)
I didnt like the amazon source provided above ^ because shipping time was an estimated 17-21 business days...
So I found this:For anyone else interested, this was the best source I could find for Mini USB Type B male connectors with easy to solder tabs: http://www.ebay.com/itm/171366701979 (http://www.ebay.com/itm/171366701979)
Everything else was from china and might have actually taken longer to get here than the kit itself. lol
I got the ones from Amazon in ~10 days.
Was it the same seller? All of the ones I found were from "uxcell"
The seller probably ships from China, and my experiences with that have been hit and miss. Sometimes it gets here quick, as if it was shipped from a far away state, sometimes it feels like it sailed over here on a row boat.
The price difference was minor and I didnt need 10 connectors, so I went with the US seller on ebay lol.
Yeah it came from china from seller uxcell. The one on ebay you linked appears to be low on stock.
I would've actually just paid another $5-10 on top of kit price for it to come with all the little bits (diodes + connectors) but I can see how that would become a pain in the ass to organize lol.
I would've actually just paid another $5-10 on top of kit price for it to come with all the little bits (diodes + connectors) but I can see how that would become a pain in the ass to organize lol.
I believe the diodes will be included. See reply #104.
On behalf of TechKeys, I want to sponsor Diodes for everyone.
Ming - please get a hold of me to work out details.
I would've actually just paid another $5-10 on top of kit price for it to come with all the little bits (diodes + connectors) but I can see how that would become a pain in the ass to organize lol.
I believe the diodes will be included. See reply #104.
Well ****, you're right:On behalf of TechKeys, I want to sponsor Diodes for everyone.
Ming - please get a hold of me to work out details.
oh well. At least it was only like.. 2 bucks. And I needed the USB connector from mouser anyway.
I would've actually just paid another $5-10 on top of kit price for it to come with all the little bits (diodes + connectors) but I can see how that would become a pain in the ass to organize lol.
I believe the diodes will be included. See reply #104.
Well ****, you're right:On behalf of TechKeys, I want to sponsor Diodes for everyone.
Ming - please get a hold of me to work out details.
oh well. At least it was only like.. 2 bucks. And I needed the USB connector from mouser anyway.
Don't worry, they'll come in handy for your next build. ;) (don't think this is the last keyboard you'll build. :P )
I would've actually just paid another $5-10 on top of kit price for it to come with all the little bits (diodes + connectors) but I can see how that would become a pain in the ass to organize lol.
I believe the diodes will be included. See reply #104.
Well ****, you're right:On behalf of TechKeys, I want to sponsor Diodes for everyone.
Ming - please get a hold of me to work out details.
oh well. At least it was only like.. 2 bucks. And I needed the USB connector from mouser anyway.
Don't worry, they'll come in handy for your next build. ;) (don't think this is the last keyboard you'll build. :P )
I'm already wanting to build a second 40% using the sets bunny's selling.
And I want the Ducky Viper.
And I want a plate for my KBT Pure.
And.. and.. and... DAMNIT
If anyone wants US sources for the USB connectors. check out electronics distributors digikey/mouser.
http://www.digikey.com/product-detail/en/935/935K-ND/2745648
also, if someone can find me a cheaper/better source of quantity both-ends-threaded or unthreaded spacers that are 1/2" tall and fit 4-40 thread machine screws, that would put this whole gasket vs spacer thing to rest.
also, if someone can find me a cheaper/better source of quantity both-ends-threaded or unthreaded spacers that are 1/2" tall and fit 4-40 thread machine screws, that would put this whole gasket vs spacer thing to rest.
also, if someone can find me a cheaper/better source of quantity both-ends-threaded or unthreaded spacers that are 1/2" tall and fit 4-40 thread machine screws, that would put this whole gasket vs spacer thing to rest.
I have a source; I'll check tomorrow when I am in the office.
- Ron | samwisekoi
I've been using McMaster P/N 93330A370 in 4-40. I use 6 per case, obviously. :)luckily, ron's supplier has the same part for 50% of the cost. hooray! :)
SOCAL FOLKS!
i need some help. someone rear ended the fiat yesterday and there, unfortunately, serious frame damage. i'm not crazy about driving it down south until this whole fiasco pans out. i could really really use someone down there to help me out in working with the cutter. engineering knowledge would be a big plus. so would willingness and ability to get out east of LA to downey and to chat with my guy about the project.
Mkawa what sort of tooling would you suggest for a countersink bit for working with this stuff?
If I can make this work would anyone else be interested in having either the top or bottom plates countersunk for use with flat head screws?
Does anyone want to take over my order? I am assuming I can't ask for a refund (I feel bad even mentioning that!)yah, unfortunately i can't refund kits at this point. transfers are absolutely fine. i just need a PM from both parties that authorize me to ship the order(s) paid for by party A to party B.
I've already paid etc, but will probably sell as soon as I have the kit now as it makes much more sense for me to be buying a cheaper keyboard I don't have to build than custom cut titanium and soldering equipment... money :(
Order is for notched top plate, standard bottom plate, both raw titanium. Two pcbs, whatever else comes standard. If anyone is interested let me know. If mkawa wants to say no transfers that's fine, I don't want to cause a fuss! If it's still possible to get a refund that's even better, but I'm not expecting that it is.
Mkawa what sort of tooling would you suggest for a countersink bit for working with this stuff?
If I can make this work would anyone else be interested in having either the top or bottom plates countersunk for use with flat head screws?
I would be interested.
Mkawa what sort of tooling would you suggest for a countersink bit for working with this stuff?it's unalloyed, so you could use HSS if you wanted and you'd be able to make it through at least a few plates before you noticed the bit dulling. full tungsten carbide or cobalt HSS alloys will increase duty cycle, with the former probably being more effective. i would avoid TiN or TiAN coatings and just get bright (uncoated) bits and use a very slow feed rate and lots of coolant. other than that, all you really need is a good square drill press, a jig with solid hold-down to keep everything stable and control depth stoppage. wear resistance is really key in the tool, because the anodized plates will have a non-trivial skin of very hard titanium dioxide that you need to make a clean cut through at very low speed so that you don't further oxidize the part, and then a bunch of relatively hard (HRB60-ish) titan to drill through.
If I can make this work would anyone else be interested in having either the top or bottom plates countersunk for use with flat head screws?
Mkawa what sort of tooling would you suggest for a countersink bit for working with this stuff?it's unalloyed, so you could use HSS if you wanted and you'd be able to make it through at least a few plates before you noticed the bit dulling. full tungsten carbide or cobalt HSS alloys will increase duty cycle, with the former probably being more effective. i would avoid TiN or TiAN coatings and just get bright (uncoated) bits and use a very slow feed rate and lots of coolant. other than that, all you really need is a good square drill press, a jig with solid hold-down to keep everything stable and control depth stoppage. wear resistance is really key in the tool, because the anodized plates will have a non-trivial skin of very hard titanium dioxide that you need to make a clean cut through at very low speed so that you don't further oxidize the part, and then a bunch of relatively hard (HRB60-ish) titan to drill through.
If I can make this work would anyone else be interested in having either the top or bottom plates countersunk for use with flat head screws?
one thing to emphasize is coolant, coolant and more coolant. titanium oxidizes almost instantly when exposed to air. the depth of oxidization depends on heat and some other junk. if the depth of oxidization is large enough, you get discoloration (which is why we only get indexed colors from our anodizer -- there is no dye, yah? just the titanium dioxide surface density causing diffraction at different wavelengths depending on depth). the upshot is that this becomes much much less of a problem if you don't expose the titanium you're cutting to air.
if you happen to have a small nitrogen generator around, i guess that could help too, but good old cutting oil is a lot more readily available and probably about as effective.
Count me in as well.
Mkawa, I think I speak for those who haven't learned to solder yet in saying I don't know how you know some much about everything and you make me feel like a dummy :p. All the info/insights are great and not discouraging but I'm somewhat amazed by how you have a wide understanding different aspects of machining/d.i.y technology and manufacturing.
i was thinking of making some domos
My order up for sale then, this is what I've got so far. I selected raw titanium finish, but this can probably still be changed at this stage?yep, just resubmit the form with the kit order number
My order up for sale then, this is what I've got so far. I selected raw titanium finish, but this can probably still be changed at this stage?yep, just resubmit the form with the kit order number
Any chance I could get a second bottom plate?see my PM. still not sure what you're looking for!
Looks like a nice kit. How difficult would it be for someone with no soldering skills to learn?on a scale of 1 to 10, where 1 is picking one's nose and 10 is building a jet fighter from scratch, i'd say it's like a 2 or 3 :P
100% of profits from this project will be donated to the Nathan J Walter foundation, a scholarship trust set up by the family of Nathan Walter aka Smallfry to support eagle scout community service projects. The first such project was a set of benches overlooking a lake, built by one of Nathan's pack-mates and friends, with a dedication to Nathan etched on the benches.
We miss you Smallfry.
Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/3UUCZSi.jpg)
Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/3UUCZSi.jpg)
Sweet. Where'd you get the clear switch tops? An old GB?
Hello, so I am completely newb to this keyboard building and have level 0 soldering skills, but I want to try.. I really do!
So please help me out with some understanding, but before I ask too many questions, is this group buy still joinable?
Is there a page where I can read up on more stuff, like "removable switch plate" that someone mentioned on the first page, what does that mean?
just from glancing at it i think everything has made MOQ. the only note i have is that titan gray is destroying all the other colors. hah!
just from glancing at it i think everything has made MOQ.
Where can this spreadsheet be found?
Sockets that you solder in through the bottom half of the switch. The top of the switch is then clipped on and the LED sits snugly in the socket, remaining easily removable so that the switch can still be opened.
I have no idea how I've never heard of this... Anyone know a good source for them?
Anyone who is getting their JD assembled by me will get sip sockets installed on the caps lock so that you can still replace the spring / stem on that swtich.
I have no idea how I've never heard of this... Anyone know a good source for them?
Ebay.
So. Chemist, how do you mod them?
So. Chemist, how do you mod them?
http://geekhack.org/index.php?topic=51792.msg1171989#msg1171989
i was thinking of making some domos
YES!
So. Chemist, how do you mod them?
http://geekhack.org/index.php?topic=51792.msg1171989#msg1171989
Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/3UUCZSi.jpg)
IM READY.
exsqueeze my noobiness but how do you write numbers and use function keys on it? or are there none? thinking of ordering this for just having something to solder ;D
good: i have sample cuts
bad: my sample switches are an hour away
gahghaglkrkehgae
the samples look _REALLY_ good by the way, and measure out extremely well. i'm going to do a test fit this afternoon and then kick off all the cutting.
teaser pics?Pls no potato. ;)
well, i spent like 3 hours driving today, but i've test fit into the samples and they are per-fecto. going to give the go ahead and work out nesting with the cutter tomorrow.
the cutter is working on nesting capacity right now.
the cutter is working on nesting capacity right now.
CP4 ASTM B265the cutter is working on nesting capacity right now.
What alloy of titanium are the plates being made of?
i have been running around so much that i still have unindexed pictures on my camera from keycon. i want to record another video update. will try to get something together soonthe cutter is working on nesting capacity right now.
Any machine pr0n teaser pics allowed? :p
whats the difference between this GB and the JD40 on the CTRL ALT store?
okay, thats what I need to know.
I'm thinking about the board, but the assembly process is a little more than I think I can do myself. And I have no idea how to program a tensy.
Metalliq says it's compatible, but untested.
Does the easy avr firmware deal going to support this PCB? I remember hearing talk about it but don't remember what the final answer was for this version.
I really just want one of the PCB's for this, is there any way to get just that?
I really just want one of the PCB's for this, is there any way to get just that?
It seems extra PCBs are only available with the purchase of a whole kit.
Read here:
http://www.geekhackers.org/collections/keyboard-accessories/products/smallfry-kit-extra-pcb-upgrade
I really just want one of the PCB's for this, is there any way to get just that?
I'm trying to pass on my whole order, but it does include an extra pcb if you just want to buy that part.i'm going to send the second pcb to the person who buys your kit. of course, what happens to the pcb after that is up to the buyer.
Edit: assuming this is deemed okay by mkawa of course
Okay, no problem.I'm trying to pass on my whole order, but it does include an extra pcb if you just want to buy that part.i'm going to send the second pcb to the person who buys your kit. of course, what happens to the pcb after that is up to the buyer.
Edit: assuming this is deemed okay by mkawa of course
On the order page, there is an image detailing keycap sizes for the board. I'd advise getting a flexible keycap set like blank or Granite DSAs if you want a full matching set.
I apologize if this question has been asked and answered on one of the 40 pages of the three or four JD40/SmallFry keyboard threads, but...
What is the specific deal with soldering the CAPSLOCK LED jumper?
I know the answer is posted somewhere, but now that I have the kit, I cannot find that post anywhere. I think I just need to jump from one of the outside pads to the positive LED pad, but from which one (and why)?
I apologize if this should have been posted in an ALT40 or a JD40 thread, but this thread seems to be the most active and they are all the same PCB.
Thanks to whomever can answer the question. This is my next soldering task before I seal the plate over the board with 80 switch connections. And almost every other kit buyer will have this question.
- Ron | samwisekoi
On the order page, there is an image detailing keycap sizes for the board. I'd advise getting a flexible keycap set like blank or Granite DSAs if you want a full matching set.Awesome! I will get Granite!
QUESTION!Durability, not even a question.
JD is feeling a bit unsure about the durability of the teflon sorbothane coating (for those who missed it, our initial samples were super sticky and hard to handle). the teflon layer on the sorbothane is somewhat delicate and can be scraped off. the other option is a urethane coating that is thick and tough, but not slippery like teflon and has a rough feel and appearance.
here is what that looks like: http://www.amazon.com/Sorbothane-Hemisphere-Non-Skid-Adhesive-Durometer/dp/B0042UA5WC/ref=sr_1_27?ie=UTF8&qid=1409613163&sr=8-27&keywords=isolate+it
can people weigh in on which kind of coating they'd prefer? i'd go with the more durable coating, but i'm not crazy about the aesthetics. teflon is obviously going to look much smoother than the bumpy urethane bidness
Durability. It's a shame that we can't get both, but from Vibex's input on stickyness, I'm happy without any chance of that happening.Yeah, I had to completely remove the sticky sorbothane from my JD40. It just became to much of a dust magnet. It also kept getting stuck to my wrist wrest, and caused a bit of the coluor to get pealed away.
I think this is pretty unanimous at this point. Durability is more important then the aesthetic.
Might be a stupid question, but what is the layout with the function layers going to be? Or is it something that I am able to program myself. If that is the case, what would you guys do?
EDIT: Found it in another thread: http://i.imgur.com/FHn851M.png
waterjet cutting should be in progress now. i've cut off orders where we are, as i slightly overestimated yield per sheet. the numbers look good though for everyone except for the upgrade kits. for those, i need to run more sheets through the laser. now would be a good time to order 60 and 80% notched plates (HINT HINT)
NOT TO BE ANNOYING, but if anyone here hasn't seen the SmallFry artisan cap, check my sig. It's a great addition to the kit and profits go to support GH, Nate's scholarship fund and Share our Strength.
:-*
Also, you get some extra goodies with them, too.
NOT TO BE ANNOYING, but if anyone here hasn't seen the SmallFry artisan cap, check my sig. It's a great addition to the kit and profits go to support GH, Nate's scholarship fund and Share our Strength.
:-*
Also, you get some extra goodies with them, too.
Link?
Friends and Family key was done as a tribute shortly after his death. I have a couple that was given to me and the wife fro attending KeyCon 2013 in Chicago. One for me and one for the wife. I thought I remember there being a good number of extras. The one problem was they were 1.5u bottom row DCS profile. So not really compatible with the majority of boards. Please tell me this cap will have a place on the SmallFry board.
NOT TO BE ANNOYING, but if anyone here hasn't seen the SmallFry artisan cap, check my sig. It's a great addition to the kit and profits go to support GH, Nate's scholarship fund and Share our Strength.
:-*
Also, you get some extra goodies with them, too.
Link?
Could You give mehr a hand? What is the difference between 60 and 80% notched plates?
we're currently in production on titanium cuts. the next hop for the metal is the anodizers. we've decided on the gaskets, but i'd prefer to pay the cutter and anodizer bills first. at the current rate they're going, they're going to be the long pole by at least a month. hard to rush shops that are doing you a huge favor.
on the contrary, i'm quite unhappy about the delay, as i had targeted this to be shipped out by august. i'm confident that the kits will be significantly better with the adjustments we've made though, and i've made arrangements for fulfillment to be carried out as quickly as possible once all the parts are together.
on the contrary, i'm quite unhappy about the delay, as i had targeted this to be shipped out by august. i'm confident that the kits will be significantly better with the adjustments we've made though, and i've made arrangements for fulfillment to be carried out as quickly as possible once all the parts are together.
on the contrary, i'm quite unhappy about the delay, as i had targeted this to be shipped out by august. i'm confident that the kits will be significantly better with the adjustments we've made though, and i've made arrangements for fulfillment to be carried out as quickly as possible once all the parts are together.
ok, i ordered it, but the small fry add on kit price was RIDICULOUSThanks! One order closer to MOQ :)
not that it stopped me.
Hmm... That may look good with the green plates I have ordered...
Hmm... That may look good with the green plates I have ordered...
Em... My bronze plate won't match well, but its good to see jd40 caps sold, gaining more popularity
Same here! I also bought that blue enter for my jd40 and the pro modifiers and speciality pack :) all just for the JD40 :)Hmm... That may look good with the green plates I have ordered...
Em... My bronze plate won't match well, but its good to see jd40 caps sold, gaining more popularity
I was just glad to see all of the JD40 caps in granite round 2. Including a blue 1.75 enter in the bonus kits. The only thing I dont have are a 1.25u \| and `~ for the bottom right corner.
Will the Nostalgia kit fit the JD40?you can check here:
1.25u \| and `~ keys? What layout are you going to do? any pictures you can share :)Hmm... That may look good with the green plates I have ordered...
Em... My bronze plate won't match well, but its good to see jd40 caps sold, gaining more popularity
I was just glad to see all of the JD40 caps in granite round 2. Including a blue 1.75 enter in the bonus kits. The only thing I dont have are a 1.25u \| and `~ for the bottom right corner.
1.25u \| and `~ keys? What layout are you going to do? any pictures you can share :)Hmm... That may look good with the green plates I have ordered...
Em... My bronze plate won't match well, but its good to see jd40 caps sold, gaining more popularity
I was just glad to see all of the JD40 caps in granite round 2. Including a blue 1.75 enter in the bonus kits. The only thing I dont have are a 1.25u \| and `~ for the bottom right corner.
1.25u \| and `~ keys? What layout are you going to do? any pictures you can share :)Hmm... That may look good with the green plates I have ordered...
Em... My bronze plate won't match well, but its good to see jd40 caps sold, gaining more popularity
I was just glad to see all of the JD40 caps in granite round 2. Including a blue 1.75 enter in the bonus kits. The only thing I dont have are a 1.25u \| and `~ for the bottom right corner.
Main Layer:Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/UgnbXtL.png)
Function Layer:Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/eKvid8b.png)
I'm not sure if the firmware will let me do the macro style fn layer stuff like ctrl alt del and what not, but I have those set up on my poker and want to mirror them on my JD40. Other than that, I'm not sure how I want the number to be arranged. Currently they are set up with low numbers closer to the left for gaming. I may drop ctrl alt del in favor of having a shift key there and I'm still figuring out where f1-f12 are going, they may get a dedicated layer depends what all I can do with layers.
1.25u \| and `~ keys? What layout are you going to do? any pictures you can share :)Hmm... That may look good with the green plates I have ordered...
Em... My bronze plate won't match well, but its good to see jd40 caps sold, gaining more popularity
I was just glad to see all of the JD40 caps in granite round 2. Including a blue 1.75 enter in the bonus kits. The only thing I dont have are a 1.25u \| and `~ for the bottom right corner.
Main Layer:Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/UgnbXtL.png)
Function Layer:Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/eKvid8b.png)
I'm not sure if the firmware will let me do the macro style fn layer stuff like ctrl alt del and what not, but I have those set up on my poker and want to mirror them on my JD40. Other than that, I'm not sure how I want the number to be arranged. Currently they are set up with low numbers closer to the left for gaming. I may drop ctrl alt del in favor of having a shift key there and I'm still figuring out where f1-f12 are going, they may get a dedicated layer depends what all I can do with layers.
I guess what you can do is set fn+shift on top row for the function row. I really like this layout, I might use it!
All in all, there's too many possibilities :confused:
Looking good! :D I need to find out a way to fit in åäö on the first layer. Going to be hard but I think this will work:1.25u \| and `~ keys? What layout are you going to do? any pictures you can share :)Hmm... That may look good with the green plates I have ordered...
Em... My bronze plate won't match well, but its good to see jd40 caps sold, gaining more popularity
I was just glad to see all of the JD40 caps in granite round 2. Including a blue 1.75 enter in the bonus kits. The only thing I dont have are a 1.25u \| and `~ for the bottom right corner.
Main Layer:Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/UgnbXtL.png)
Function Layer:Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/eKvid8b.png)
I'm not sure if the firmware will let me do the macro style fn layer stuff like ctrl alt del and what not, but I have those set up on my poker and want to mirror them on my JD40. Other than that, I'm not sure how I want the number to be arranged. Currently they are set up with low numbers closer to the left for gaming. I may drop ctrl alt del in favor of having a shift key there and I'm still figuring out where f1-f12 are going, they may get a dedicated layer depends what all I can do with layers.
Crap, I forgot about getting all the electronics. Also I'm pretty sure this has been asked before, but how are the LEDs for caps lock going to work, what size led should I get?
So this may be a dumb question, but do we NEED the caps LED? I don't plan on putting caps lock anywhere on mine and would rather not have the LED as well. Will the keyboard work without it?nope! you can absolutely build without the LED and resistor.
Just making sure, I need plate mounted switches, correct?
Question, how much space is between the PCB and the bottom titanium plate when its all assembled?appx 8mm
Also, is the gasket one solid piece or does it just follow the perimeter of the plates?perimeter
I'm asking because I'm thinking of using a mini breadboard to wire up all the LEDs and resistors. I'd want to stick it in the middle of the two plates if it fits.yah, you should be able to do this with perfboard. use like 26ga wire and 2mm perfboard.
Fairly off-topic, but help me choose what switch to put in my Smallfry board. I'm currently stuck on MX Clears or MX Whites.
Thanks for the update mkawa! :)Fairly off-topic, but help me choose what switch to put in my Smallfry board. I'm currently stuck on MX Clears or MX Whites.
I am going for clears!
Blue w/ clear springs.
Question, how much space is between the PCB and the bottom titanium plate when its all assembled?appx 8mmQuoteAlso, is the gasket one solid piece or does it just follow the perimeter of the plates?perimeterQuoteI'm asking because I'm thinking of using a mini breadboard to wire up all the LEDs and resistors. I'd want to stick it in the middle of the two plates if it fits.yah, you should be able to do this with perfboard. use like 26ga wire and 2mm perfboard.
I don't think the small fry kit has made MOQ yet.
Sorry, I meant with the key caps in the post above mine
has there been any bluetooth mods for this board?
it's pretty obviously a candidate for a tablet keyboard
the cerakote layer can be as thin as 100-150 microns, which is <= 5 mils, so possibly, but unlikely. that said, i have absolutely no idea what the pricing on the cerakote process would be.
If anyone finds a way to blue tooth mod these guys let me know. That seems like a pretty sweet idea.I'm looking at developing one for my smallfry when it come. Only a planning stage currently. If anything eventuates it'll be open source. I'll make a thread and post all the instructions.
has there been any bluetooth mods for this board?
it's pretty obviously a candidate for a tablet keyboard
I haven't seen one, but I was hoping to make one work. I was looking at smasher's hhkb teensy bluetooth mod, and wondering if it would be fairly compatible because it also uses a teensy..
Help tip these DCS Smallfry modifiers! (http://www.pimpmykeyboard.com/deals/greentea-smallfry-kit/)
5 more hours left, 3 orders needed for these mods. You don't even need the GreenTea alphas, you can use the mods with any DCS or Cherry profile alphas.
Help tip these DCS Smallfry modifiers! (http://www.pimpmykeyboard.com/deals/greentea-smallfry-kit/)One more! Edit: tipped :D
5 more hours left, 3 orders needed for these mods. You don't even need the GreenTea alphas, you can use the mods with any DCS or Cherry profile alphas.
Just because we're getting close, has there been an official parts needed list yet? The only info is just scattered randomly throughout this thread.
Just because we're getting close, has there been an official parts needed list yet? The only info is just scattered randomly throughout this thread.
Yes, it would be nice to know what items need to be prepped. :) Are diodes still being sponsored by i3oiler, or will we have to prep them?
i will be supplying stabilizers. i wouldn't worry too much about diodes. i think we can arrange to get them into the kits.
i will be supplying stabilizers. i wouldn't worry too much about diodes. i think we can arrange to get them into the kits.
So that leaves USB port and cable, switches, keycaps. Anything else that I missed?
Edit: Teensy
have to apologize here. i'm currently the long pole. i'll keep everyone updated, but i just wandered into a project at work that is going to completely slam me for the next month and a half. grumble
9.7 x 3.7". 0.5" between top and bottom plate, nominal
You could just get longer spacers and go without the gasket?9.7 x 3.7". 0.5" between top and bottom plate, nominal
Ah that sucks. Was hoping I would have space between the pcb and bottom plate to add in the hardware to add bluetooth functionality. Definitely doesn't seem like that will be possible.
You could just get longer spacers and go without the gasket?9.7 x 3.7". 0.5" between top and bottom plate, nominal
Ah that sucks. Was hoping I would have space between the pcb and bottom plate to add in the hardware to add bluetooth functionality. Definitely doesn't seem like that will be possible.
you don't want to put the bluetooth antenna between two titanium plates anyway. i would look for a more creative mounting solution
do the adafruit bluefruit cans have antenna snaps on them? i thought they were 100% self-contained?
Booper (http://geekhack.org/index.php?action=profile;u=40027) here on GH having a IC atm for a JD40/The SmallFry keycap set: http://geekhack.org/index.php?topic=63768
Vote for which profile you want and also vote here http://www.pimpmykeyboard.com/deals/deep-space/ so it get tipped! :thumb:Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/ZKmRAzY.png)
Do you have any high quality pictures of mock ups? The ones on geekhackers is awful :(
ah, so i'm going to have something more concrete to say about the coloring soon. the basic idea though is that my interactions post-quote from the anodizer have not been good, so i've pivoted on the coloring. this is going to be a bit experimental, but instead of anodizing, i'm going with something that i think is actually a bit cooler and may be one of the first times it's actually been tried. yes, because anodizing titanium to a fixed color scheme was not bleeding edge enough, i've opted for a process that is even more bleeding edge.
no, seriously. that's what i'm doing.
i'm going to nail this down with some experiments with the shop and then i'll be able to say more about it.
ah, so i'm going to have something more concrete to say about the coloring soon. the basic idea though is that my interactions post-quote from the anodizer have not been good, so i've pivoted on the coloring. this is going to be a bit experimental, but instead of anodizing, i'm going with something that i think is actually a bit cooler and may be one of the first times it's actually been tried. yes, because anodizing titanium to a fixed color scheme was not bleeding edge enough, i've opted for a process that is even more bleeding edge.
no, seriously. that's what i'm doing.
i'm going to nail this down with some experiments with the shop and then i'll be able to say more about it.
ah, so i'm going to have something more concrete to say about the coloring soon. the basic idea though is that my interactions post-quote from the anodizer have not been good, so i've pivoted on the coloring. this is going to be a bit experimental, but instead of anodizing, i'm going with something that i think is actually a bit cooler and may be one of the first times it's actually been tried. yes, because anodizing titanium to a fixed color scheme was not bleeding edge enough, i've opted for a process that is even more bleeding edge.
no, seriously. that's what i'm doing.
i'm going to nail this down with some experiments with the shop and then i'll be able to say more about it.
ah, so i'm going to have something more concrete to say about the coloring soon. the basic idea though is that my interactions post-quote from the anodizer have not been good, so i've pivoted on the coloring. this is going to be a bit experimental, but instead of anodizing, i'm going with something that i think is actually a bit cooler and may be one of the first times it's actually been tried. yes, because anodizing titanium to a fixed color scheme was not bleeding edge enough, i've opted for a process that is even more bleeding edge.Ooooooo, mysterious.
no, seriously. that's what i'm doing.
i'm going to nail this down with some experiments with the shop and then i'll be able to say more about it.
ah, so i'm going to have something more concrete to say about the coloring soon. the basic idea though is that my interactions post-quote from the anodizer have not been good, so i've pivoted on the coloring. this is going to be a bit experimental, but instead of anodizing, i'm going with something that i think is actually a bit cooler and may be one of the first times it's actually been tried. yes, because anodizing titanium to a fixed color scheme was not bleeding edge enough, i've opted for a process that is even more bleeding edge.Ooooooo, mysterious.
no, seriously. that's what i'm doing.
i'm going to nail this down with some experiments with the shop and then i'll be able to say more about it.
Does this secret method have anything to do with what you were telling me and dorkvader about? If it is, everyone be super excited. ;) If not, be excited anyway. ;D
ah, so i'm going to have something more concrete to say about the coloring soon. the basic idea though is that my interactions post-quote from the anodizer have not been good, so i've pivoted on the coloring. this is going to be a bit experimental, but instead of anodizing, i'm going with something that i think is actually a bit cooler and may be one of the first times it's actually been tried. yes, because anodizing titanium to a fixed color scheme was not bleeding edge enough, i've opted for a process that is even more bleeding edge.Ooooooo, mysterious.
no, seriously. that's what i'm doing.
i'm going to nail this down with some experiments with the shop and then i'll be able to say more about it.
Does this secret method have anything to do with what you were telling me and dorkvader about? If it is, everyone be super excited. ;) If not, be excited anyway. ;D
Spill the beans~!! :p
ah, so i'm going to have something more concrete to say about the coloring soon. the basic idea though is that my interactions post-quote from the anodizer have not been good, so i've pivoted on the coloring. this is going to be a bit experimental, but instead of anodizing, i'm going with something that i think is actually a bit cooler and may be one of the first times it's actually been tried. yes, because anodizing titanium to a fixed color scheme was not bleeding edge enough, i've opted for a process that is even more bleeding edge.
no, seriously. that's what i'm doing.
i'm going to nail this down with some experiments with the shop and then i'll be able to say more about it.
Spill the beans~!! :pUh uh, no spillers. :-X
also, the gasket folks proved empirically that they actually can't urethane coat this part. it's going to have to be PTFE. I'm going to see if there's anything i can do to prevent the kind of wear and defect that vibex experienced with his sample based on a couple of ptfe coated samples (which look great)
there's also the fact that i currently own one fork, one spoon and two bowls.
I would imagine most of us will be happy as long as the plates look good, and the pcbs work xD
100-150microns. coating thickness is negligible....
to be pedantic (ahahaha when am i not), very precisely machined firearms are machined to tolerances of about 50 mics, particularly for things like small pins that determine trigger tension, and so on. the trick is that the process is two parts, and it's not electrostatic.
first, the branded coating requires a significantly more precise blasting chamber than is typically used in parts cleaning or powdercoating. the blasting chamber needs to be able to produce controlled reductions in the 100-300 mics range Ra (a statistical measure of surface roughness).
next, the coating process is _wet_. acrylic powdercoating is accomplished by creating a voltage differential between a powder and the object to be coated such that the two attract. you then melt the acrylic while under charge so that it coats the surface. the acrylic particles are fairly large and the process is really only self-leveling if you assume a perfect sphere and even then, only to an integral number of particles. (in reaction, many precise powdercoating shops have started using a 'fluidizing' process. the basic idea is that bulk particulates can start behaving like bulk fluids if you toss enough kinetic energy at them. but, instead of using electrical charge to stick the fluidized powder to the object, you usually get the object really hot and then spray or dip it.)
the ceramic coating is a wet thermoset polymer that starts out as a liquid resin with ceramic structures and/or particles in suspension. the polymer liquid can have much smaller polymer structures than a thermoplastic powdered solid. further, the ceramic portion is extremely hard even when layered at a couple molecules thick. finally, actual liquids are actually self-leveling. hence, this particular ceramic composite can be used to consistently coat many more types of surfaces with a highly controllable layer thickness.
THE END... OR IS IT?!
checking out some datasheets, it looks like the basic formulation is a room temperature initial cure with a 300f final bake. it's single part, so there's no catalyst. it looks like there is some kind of room temperature reaction, i'm guessing that this is for adhesion or a leveling skin or something and then a low temperature heated reaction that cures the remainder?
also interesting is that a single pass is listed as typically producing a 5 to 10 micron coating
that is bat**** insane right there.
also super interesting is the singular sentence "electrostatic application may be an option". i don't know if this is with certain formulations or with certain parts or at high potential difference or what, but that could help lower Ra so that you're getting like a 10 +- 1 micron coating. that's crazy
there are room temperature set formulations. check out the C-series firearm coatings.
so yes, definitely possible.
correct!
anodizing titanium actually tends to produce rainbows. i chose the anodizer based on their claimed ability to process 6 uniform colors without rainbowing. communications after the quote however did not inspire much confidence.
in fact, cerakote, being a kind of paint, has an insane number of available colors:
http://www.cerakoteguncoatings.com/finishes/
that said, what rainbow and i will be doing is choosing 6 finishes that are the best looking approximation of the 6 colors the anodizer used. as much fun as it would be to let people pick any color they wanted, as you can see from the link, cerakote is really really expensive. so we're going to keep it down to six. by far the largest contingent is gray, which will help keep things manageable, but i'll be working with rainbow to see what they have stock of that we can use and what we will have to buy.
anodizing titanium actually tends to produce rainbows. i chose the anodizer based on their claimed ability to process 6 uniform colors without rainbowing. communications after the quote however did not inspire much confidence.
in fact, cerakote, being a kind of paint, has an insane number of available colors:
http://www.cerakoteguncoatings.com/finishes/
that said, what rainbow and i will be doing is choosing 6 finishes that are the best looking approximation of the 6 colors the anodizer used. as much fun as it would be to let people pick any color they wanted, as you can see from the link, cerakote is really really expensive. so we're going to keep it down to six. by far the largest contingent is gray, which will help keep things manageable, but i'll be working with rainbow to see what they have stock of that we can use and what we will have to buy.
I'm confused. Will we still be getting the colours we selected before? If not, what colours will we be getting?
laser engraving of titanium is going to be problematic, as it will cause rainbowing from oxidization at the focal point. having to burn through the cerakote means turning the power up, which will only make this problem worse.
unfortunately, getting into holiday territory means that things move even slower :\. shipments take longer, shops go on vacation, etc. i've decided that i'm going to start mailing plates alone and pcbs if i have them (coordinating with ctrlalt on this one) to domestic customers as soon as soon as i have them. so, packages with only raw plates will go out first. then, colored plates, as rainbow turns things around quickly. finally, i'll resolve this mess with the gasket and as soon as the pcbs come in, i'll send those out with teensies to domestic customers.
domestic customers won't be charged for the additional shipping. unfortunately, the cost of shipping even tiny little parts internationally makes it prohibitive to send most things out piecemeal. if you have a special circumstance, eg you _only_ need plates and you're international, please let me know asap so i can mark your order and get it out as soon as parts come in.
which brings us to the question: will this kit ever be produced again? the answer is that it will never happen at this scale, ever. you would think i would have learned my lesson from those panavises but i'm very good at repeating my mistakes XD
As long as I can get those GREEN plates to match the green tea keycap set I ordered!you have no idea how excited i am to pick a seafoam semi-translucent cerakote color. OH GOD SO MANY BEAUTIFUL COLORS!!!!
As long as I can get those GREEN plates to match the green tea keycap set I ordered!you have no idea how excited i am to pick a seafoam semi-translucent cerakote color. OH GOD SO MANY BEAUTIFUL COLORS!!!!
As long as I can get those GREEN plates to match the green tea keycap set I ordered!you have no idea how excited i am to pick a seafoam semi-translucent cerakote color. OH GOD SO MANY BEAUTIFUL COLORS!!!!
Can you let us know when we should repick our colours. I need to take a look once the new ones are decided. :thumb:
oh, and i got the latest batch of samples from sorbothane. 80 duro is NOT STICKY! and it feels great and won't wander around or squish as much as the old ones did. GREAT SUCCESS!YEAHHHHHHHH! ;D
I'm still confused. Can you be more explicit about the color process?
I ordered Vector Purple / Aqua. Will I get Vector Purple / Aqua, or something "close"?
Will you be collecting samples of the color options and then giving us some time to re-pick our colors if we're unsatisfied?
Yeah me too.I'm still confused. Can you be more explicit about the color process?
I ordered Vector Purple / Aqua. Will I get Vector Purple / Aqua, or something "close"?
Will you be collecting samples of the color options and then giving us some time to re-pick our colors if we're unsatisfied?
This is what I would like. Especially as we are going from 12 colours down to 6 right?
ack! sorry, for some reason i thought danco offered only 6 colors. 12 is trickier, but if it's 12 it's 12. i probably won't be able to touch base with tammi until next week, and more importantly, i only have 6 samples for her to spray. let me do some digging when people get back into their shops next week. there may still be some significant droppings sitting around at the cutters that i can get to rainbow for swatches.
i'm completely playing it by ear right now, and i can't say much yet without talking to both shops. hoad on folks, we'll all converge shortly and if there is any significant input needed from you guys, i will get the word out. what i'm hoping to do is stay within current costing and color schemes while changing the process. if that's not possible, you will hear from me. at 6 colors, i was pretty sure it was. at 12, i have to dig.
just the paint costs for 12qts of cerakote is around 1200$, and then on top of that you have shop costs, which i only have quoted at 6 colors. if we don't actually have to buy 12 full qts, we'll be way ahead of the game, so stay tuned. the upshot here is that tammi is a painting and powdering genius and i 100% trust she'll fix my screw-ups for me. for example, the three blues may be just 1, 2 and 3 coats of a standard stock blue. since the coats are ridiculously thin and often don't need to be heated to cure, you have a heck of a lot more latitude than with powdering, and you don't have to solve a hundred simultaneous non-analytical equations to anodize to one of three blue colors (i still have no idea how danco can claim to anodize to that many colors.. and i probably never will, i guess).
on the upside, packing and shipping the plates is going to be a heck of a lot less than if they were powdered; cerakote is significantly more durable.
ack! sorry, for some reason i thought danco offered only 6 colors. 12 is trickier, but if it's 12 it's 12. i probably won't be able to touch base with tammi until next week, and more importantly, i only have 6 samples for her to spray. let me do some digging when people get back into their shops next week. there may still be some significant droppings sitting around at the cutters that i can get to rainbow for swatches.
i'm completely playing it by ear right now, and i can't say much yet without talking to both shops. hoad on folks, we'll all converge shortly and if there is any significant input needed from you guys, i will get the word out. what i'm hoping to do is stay within current costing and color schemes while changing the process. if that's not possible, you will hear from me. at 6 colors, i was pretty sure it was. at 12, i have to dig.
just the paint costs for 12qts of cerakote is around 1200$, and then on top of that you have shop costs, which i only have quoted at 6 colors. if we don't actually have to buy 12 full qts, we'll be way ahead of the game, so stay tuned. the upshot here is that tammi is a painting and powdering genius and i 100% trust she'll fix my screw-ups for me. for example, the three blues may be just 1, 2 and 3 coats of a standard stock blue. since the coats are ridiculously thin and often don't need to be heated to cure, you have a heck of a lot more latitude than with powdering, and you don't have to solve a hundred simultaneous non-analytical equations to anodize to one of three blue colors (i still have no idea how danco can claim to anodize to that many colors.. and i probably never will, i guess).
on the upside, packing and shipping the plates is going to be a heck of a lot less than if they were powdered; cerakote is significantly more durable.
i THINK raw plates will either make christmas or miss it by a week at most. colored plates are NOT going to make xmas.
soooo... do we have an estimate on how long the wait is going to be?
soooo... do we have an estimate on how long the wait is going to be?
Reading is not your strong suit, I assume.
soooo... do we have an estimate on how long the wait is going to be?
Reading is not your strong suit, I assume.
well mkawa only actually mentioned a lower bound for the colored plates. maybe he's just looking for an upper bound. 3 months after xmas is different than 6 months.
yah, just select a color, any color, on the google form. you can change it before i get the colored plates all painted.i THINK raw plates will either make christmas or miss it by a week at most. colored plates are NOT going to make xmas.
My order is for raw plates, but I'm curious to see how the cerakote options/samples turn out. So could I delay my order?
If you like my JD40 keyboard, around which this group buy is based, please vote for it in the Deskthority Awards. :)
http://deskthority.net/final-vote-f84/best-space-saving-or-compact-keyboard-2014-t9311.html
If you like my JD40 keyboard, around which this group buy is based, please vote for it in the Deskthority Awards. :)
http://deskthority.net/final-vote-f84/best-space-saving-or-compact-keyboard-2014-t9311.html
yah, just select a color, any color, on the google form. you can change it before i get the colored plates all painted.i THINK raw plates will either make christmas or miss it by a week at most. colored plates are NOT going to make xmas.
My order is for raw plates, but I'm curious to see how the cerakote options/samples turn out. So could I delay my order?
please don't tell people to RTFM :[, this is a long thread for a project with an unexpectedly very long lead time. it's ok for people to be asking for etas. heck, if hoffman hadn't spoken up, i'd still be speccing out for only 6 colors :eek:
If you like my JD40 keyboard, around which this group buy is based, please vote for it in the Deskthority Awards. :)
http://deskthority.net/final-vote-f84/best-space-saving-or-compact-keyboard-2014-t9311.html
Can we see the mockups for the cerakote before making final decisions on our plates?yep
Hm, Zombie Green, S&W Red, Armor Black, Low Gloss Armor Clear, .. so many choices :) Need to find the link to the color order form..
http://tinyurl.com/p64c2wy (http://tinyurl.com/p64c2wy)
awesome! PM me. i need to grab the part number from JD, but i suspect i can cover the remainder if you'd like to donate. woohoo! thanks folks for being so awesome.
yep, just got it.
fun fact! there is an atmega128/256 variant with a BLE on-chip. part number is atmega256rfr2. there is a ~30x30mm canned dev board with a chip amp available too. part number is:
http://www.atmel.com/Images/Atmel-42191-Wireless-ZigBit-ATZB-S1-256-3-0-C_Datasheet.pdf
with an appropriate firmware (TMK with code that implements BT4.0) this would subsume the teensy entirely.
i'm also pretty intrigued by the chip that the pebblebee uses: the csr101x series
http://www.csr.com/products/csr101x-product-family
these are single chip BLE + MCU + RF ant SoCs with a proprietary 16-bit risc MCU that uses the completely unknown to me XAP ISA. it's slow but incredibly power efficient and runs at < 3v and have power reg circuitry onboard. the newest revisions also have direct support for li-poly cells as current sources, which they then reg into voltage sources. this is basically how you have to use li-polys, because their voltages are highly variable, especially in prismatic packaging. the chip comes in packages as small as 4x4mm 32pin qfp
My Bluetooth mod is coming together, (basically just a teensy sized board with a battery charger and bluetooth module)
I wouldn't mind having a second keyboard to play around with. You mention a fortnight ago you had 5/6 kits left. I assume since they're not out of stock on geekhackers there are some left, so I've placed an order.
fun fact! there is an atmega128/256 variant with a BLE on-chip. part number is atmega256rfr2. there is a ~30x30mm canned dev board with a chip amp available too. part number is:
http://www.atmel.com/Images/Atmel-42191-Wireless-ZigBit-ATZB-S1-256-3-0-C_Datasheet.pdf
i've broached the topic of a 40% rest with noko, actually.
anyway, i don't want to get anyone too excited, because i'm completely swamped into the foreseeable future but
I am so conflicted! :-\ Do I go raw, because they look great, or do I get coloured?
The plates with switch removal cutouts were produced as such, correct? It's been awhile since that part of the GB went down, so I'm just verifying.i can only get the standard square cutout plates out at the moment. the switch removal plates that were cut are being used to test the painting method and colors. another run will be produced after the new year.
there's no point covering raw titanium with a paint color called "titanium".
https://www.dropbox.com/s/6r0u51g4tikj4m1/_PRO2880.JPG?dl=0
mkawa please don't ship order number 1118 (I think,will have to check). I'm still deciding on my plate colorsk, noted.
The plates with switch removal cutouts were produced as such, correct? It's been awhile since that part of the GB went down, so I'm just verifying.i can only get the standard square cutout plates out at the moment. the switch removal plates that were cut are being used to test the painting method and colors. another run will be produced after the new year.
Holy **** do those ever look good! As someone whose handled his fair share of keyboard plates recently, those are absolutely amazing :eek:
Seeing those pics really makes me wish I had ordered some. Do the front and the back of the plates both look like that?
Holy **** do those ever look good! As someone whose handled his fair share of keyboard plates recently, those are absolutely amazing :eek:
Seeing those pics really makes me wish I had ordered some. Do the front and the back of the plates both look like that?
no, for cost reasons, i only had one side of each sheet ground like that.
the only plates that will be getting a clearcoat are the TITAN GRAY color option. it won't be a glossy clearcoat though. it will be a matte clearcoat (to make it grayer). the raw titan oiled like in the above pictures will be the glossiest finish
get your "raw titan" color choice in quick please! :)
get your "raw titan" color choice in quick please! :)
get your "raw titan" color choice in quick please! :)
raw titan is glossy like in those pictures right? and titan grey is the more matte color?
grumble grumble. i'm packing washing, oiling and packing up the raw titan plates now. USB connectors came in. working on the run of notched plates and with the coater on colors. the coater thinks some colors will need to be powders instead of cerakote in order to make all 12 colors. i trust her judgement on that, so we'll focus on getting the coating thin enough to not mess with the tolerances. there is separate value in working on how to use translucent powders on these plates for future product anyway, so the mix is not a bad idea. she is 100% on the matte clear as ceramic, and i've found some really really good greens, but the lighter colors like the light blues and bronze and gold will probably be powders.
grumble grumble. i'm packing washing, oiling and packing up the raw titan plates now. USB connectors came in. working on the run of notched plates and with the coater on colors. the coater thinks some colors will need to be powders instead of cerakote in order to make all 12 colors. i trust her judgement on that, so we'll focus on getting the coating thin enough to not mess with the tolerances. there is separate value in working on how to use translucent powders on these plates for future product anyway, so the mix is not a bad idea. she is 100% on the matte clear as ceramic, and i've found some really really good greens, but the lighter colors like the light blues and bronze and gold will probably be powders.
Current order count: 74 ?!?!
Kits remaining: NONE !?!?
the painter and i have been going over costing and tolerances, and just as a warning, we may have to cut some colors. purple, greens, blues and titan gray are the safest right now. some of these colors might be collapsed though. there might also be a "trust the painter" or "omakase" option where you give tammi, rainbow's painting genius, authorization to treat your plate as a blank canvas :).
I don't want one, thanks :)I would recommend having the gasket, it really improves the overall feel of the board. It makes the body of the keyboard stay almost vibration free and allow only the feedback from the keys. It's a really great feel if you have tactile switches, or bottom out when you type.
I don't want one, thanks :)I would recommend having the gasket, it really improves the overall feel of the board. It makes the body of the keyboard stay almost vibration free and allow only the feedback from the keys. It's a really great feel if you have tactile switches, or bottom out when you type.
i ordered a gold plate...i'm cool with mine being used as an experiment, but if the painter has low confidence that it won't turn out right and recommends against, i'm going to go with raw.
the painter and i have been going over costing and tolerances, and just as a warning, we may have to cut some colors. purple, greens, blues and titan gray are the safest right now. some of these colors might be collapsed though. there might also be a "trust the painter" or "omakase" option where you give tammi, rainbow's painting genius, authorization to treat your plate as a blank canvas :).
hey folks,
sorry, i've been sick for the last week. i'm getting ready to kick off gasket production. bunny and i also need to powow on the pcbs. i currently have:
1. about 20 more raw titan plate sets that need to be prepped (i've prepped about 10-15)
2. 40 plate sets at the painters. there are also about 8-10 units there that will be painted with test colors as samples. it turns out that i should have gotten cleanup on both sides, as about half the top plates must be painted, because they have no finish on the "up" side. oops :(
3. enough USB jacks for everyone
4. enough stabilizers for everyone
5. no notched plates.
6. a few sample gaskets that give 2 good options. i'm going to go with the more durable and easier to produce of the two.
i don't have:
1. the whole run of gaskets
2. fasteners and spacers
3. PCBs
4. diodes
5. teensies for those who ordered them
6. notched plates for those who ordered them.
that's the current sitrep. because i'm so behind on work, i need to dig into that for a while, so i'm going to focus on low-effort kickoffs like the pcbs, gaskets. those have a few weeks lead-time, and in the meantime the complex stuff can be plowed through as time allows.
hey folks,
1. about 20 more raw titan plate sets that need to be prepped (i've prepped about 10-15)
yes! please go ahead and fill out the form again with raw titan as your color option. it will overwrite the old entry.Could you point me to the form, please?
yes! please go ahead and fill out the form again with raw titan as your color option. it will overwrite the old entry.Could you point me to the form, please?
tia
Hans-Peter
I've ordered some color samples, including a glossy clear that might turn out pretty nicely. I've been trying to get more sample plates to Tammi, but we've got 6+ft of snow on the ground with more coming this weekend, so everything relating to the mail is moving very slowly :(. i'll post the pictures as soon as i have them. since we're at the very beginning of figuring out how titanium looks with this painting process, i've given Tammi free reign on the first few samples. I suspect that they're going to be pretty awesome :D
On the upside, I'm finishing up with a major deadline this weekend, so I should hopefully have a slightly smaller time deficit next week (note: hopefully. could be wishful thinking.).
the PCB order is waiting for bunny and I to get our affairs in order XD. lead time is thankfully pretty quick on that one compared to the gaskets.
it's amazing how 4 to 6 weeks can turn into 8+ months with no end in sight, all I wanted was a unique 40% board and to support the cause, gh can be depressing sometimes
If anyone is reading this and is interested in possibly taking over my order let me know. You can customize the colours still, and thechemist is going to be building mine with lubed/stickered mx clears. I am not as interested in this as I was 7 months ago and could use the cash for other hobbies. Send me a pm if interested.
Thank you mkawa and geniekid for clarifying each piece of the kit. :)
This thread has gotten long and it's a little confusing where we stand. I read the entire thing last night and corresponded with mkawa a little over email to confirm our status. He asked me to share my summary with you. So here goes:
There are about 80 kits that need to be fulfilled.
Kits contain:
- Plates
- PCB
- Diodes
- USB jack
- Stabilizer
- Gasket/Spacers
- Fasteners
- Teensy (optional)
Plates
All plates have been cut except for the notched ones. Raw plates are being cleaned and oiled by mkawa. Painted plates are waiting on Rainbow to provide samples so GB participants can finalize their color decisions. Expect pictures of samples next week. Notched plates are running into unexpected cost issues that have to be figured out.
PCBs
PCB orders will be placed within the next month. It's best to wait after Chinese New Years before putting in a production order.
Diodes
These will be ordered soon and sent directly to me so I can sort them into individual kits and send them back to mkawa.
USB jacks
Fully acquired.
Stabilizer
Fully acquired.
Gaskets
In production. ETA for the first batch (50 of them) is 3-5 weeks.
Fasteners/spacers
Need to be specced and purchased.
Teensy
Need to be ordered for those who paid for one.
If you have any kind of priority list for getting orders out feel free to put mine right at the back, if that'll help others get theirs sooner. I've got one JD40 already so I'm in no rush.You can do this for me too. I already have my 40% that JD built so I can wait longer.
folks,
the batch of gaskets came in yesterday. huge thanks to geniekid for handling comms on this; i have a few days of breathing room starting tomorrow, so i will add up some numbers and see where things stand, as well as talk extensively to the painter and other suppliers.
thanks so much for your patience, and please know that geniekid is communicating extensively with me to keep y'all updated and relay concerns
(Attachment Link)
So I stopped by Rainbow today to drop off a piece I am doing for someone else and asked Tammi if I could see the test plates. She was happy to show me.
(Attachment Link)
Sorry about the potato with much less than optimal light, I took this in their paint booth.
The colors are very vivid. The clear has a slight texture due to interacting with stuff left in the surface ground texture. It is nothing that really detracts from the look and is only really noticeable IP close and personal. This is only due to the fact that Tammi doesn't want to media blast it and remove that finish. The pink is very bright but has a lot of texture due to having to be put on thicker than other colors. I guess this is an issue with all pinks and possibly very light purples. Again nothing wrong with it, just not glass smooth. The other colors look absolutely stunning.
(Attachment Link)
I have many regrets for not joining this buy now. I'm going to have to get my plates ano'd and then figure out how to get TI for myself...
(Attachment Link)
I have many regrets for not joining this buy now. I'm going to have to get my plates ano'd and then figure out how to get TI for myself...
So I stopped by Rainbow today to drop off a piece I am doing for someone else and asked Tammi if I could see the test plates. She was happy to show me.
(Attachment Link)
Sorry about the potato with much less than optimal light, I took this in their paint booth.
The colors are very vivid. The clear has a slight texture due to interacting with stuff left in the surface ground texture. It is nothing that really detracts from the look and is only really noticeable IP close and personal. This is only due to the fact that Tammi doesn't want to media blast it and remove that finish. The pink is very bright but has a lot of texture due to having to be put on thicker than other colors. I guess this is an issue with all pinks and possibly very light purples. Again nothing wrong with it, just not glass smooth. The other colors look absolutely stunning.
So I stopped by Rainbow today to drop off a piece I am doing for someone else and asked Tammi if I could see the test plates. She was happy to show me.
(Attachment Link)
Sorry about the potato with much less than optimal light, I took this in their paint booth.
The colors are very vivid. The clear has a slight texture due to interacting with stuff left in the surface ground texture. It is nothing that really detracts from the look and is only really noticeable IP close and personal. This is only due to the fact that Tammi doesn't want to media blast it and remove that finish. The pink is very bright but has a lot of texture due to having to be put on thicker than other colors. I guess this is an issue with all pinks and possibly very light purples. Again nothing wrong with it, just not glass smooth. The other colors look absolutely stunning.
So I stopped by Rainbow today to drop off a piece I am doing for someone else and asked Tammi if I could see the test plates. She was happy to show me.
(Attachment Link)
Sorry about the potato with much less than optimal light, I took this in their paint booth.
The colors are very vivid. The clear has a slight texture due to interacting with stuff left in the surface ground texture. It is nothing that really detracts from the look and is only really noticeable IP close and personal. This is only due to the fact that Tammi doesn't want to media blast it and remove that finish. The pink is very bright but has a lot of texture due to having to be put on thicker than other colors. I guess this is an issue with all pinks and possibly very light purples. Again nothing wrong with it, just not glass smooth. The other colors look absolutely stunning.
was there a bronze plate?
(Attachment Link)
I have many regrets for not joining this buy now. I'm going to have to get my plates ano'd and then figure out how to get TI for myself...
Are these paint or cerakoted? I think I zoned out at that part.
Are those all powder coated??
So I stopped by Rainbow today to drop off a piece I am doing for someone else and asked Tammi if I could see the test plates. She was happy to show me.
(Attachment Link)
Sorry about the potato with much less than optimal light, I took this in their paint booth.
The colors are very vivid. The clear has a slight texture due to interacting with stuff left in the surface ground texture. It is nothing that really detracts from the look and is only really noticeable IP close and personal. This is only due to the fact that Tammi doesn't want to media blast it and remove that finish. The pink is very bright but has a lot of texture due to having to be put on thicker than other colors. I guess this is an issue with all pinks and possibly very light purples. Again nothing wrong with it, just not glass smooth. The other colors look absolutely stunning.
was there a bronze plate?
Not when I was there.
Are these paint or cerakoted? I think I zoned out at that part.Are those all powder coated??
It is Cerokote.
Edit: The two plates on the left side are both coated clear. Also, put a capital letter on Cerokote as it is a trademarked name.
I'm still interested in selling my order if you want to get in.(Attachment Link)
I have many regrets for not joining this buy now. I'm going to have to get my plates ano'd and then figure out how to get TI for myself...
well. damn.
does anyone know if bronze will make the final cut or has it been 'disqualified' already?
i'm going to be a sad ducky if i don't get bronze or gold :(
Is it still possible to order this keyboard or is it to late?
Is it still possible to order this keyboard or is it to late?
hey folks, home sick today so i wanted to give you a quick update
i received the sample colored plates from tammi @ rainbow yesterday. they're pretty amazing. i had some questions about exactly which processes she used, but i can assure you that the matte ceramic is _amazing_, and her other samples are no slouches either. there's one in particular that is just out of this world, but i have to chat with her to make sure the coating won't be too thick.
the trick with color selection is that we have to purchase at least 100$ of each color to coat any boards in that color at all. coloring was originally costed at 600$ total, and is now probably going to be over 3000$. i set a fixed price and screwed up the costing all by myself, so i'll take the hit, but we can make the hit a bit smaller if we get creative with selection. i have some folks to talk with, but we'll post something around the end of the week if the ducks get lined up.
hey folks, home sick today so i wanted to give you a quick update
i received the sample colored plates from tammi @ rainbow yesterday. they're pretty amazing. i had some questions about exactly which processes she used, but i can assure you that the matte ceramic is _amazing_, and her other samples are no slouches either. there's one in particular that is just out of this world, but i have to chat with her to make sure the coating won't be too thick.
the trick with color selection is that we have to purchase at least 100$ of each color to coat any boards in that color at all. coloring was originally costed at 600$ total, and is now probably going to be over 3000$. i set a fixed price and screwed up the costing all by myself, so i'll take the hit, but we can make the hit a bit smaller if we get creative with selection. i have some folks to talk with, but we'll post something around the end of the week if the ducks get lined up.
hey folks, home sick today so i wanted to give you a quick update
i received the sample colored plates from tammi @ rainbow yesterday. they're pretty amazing. i had some questions about exactly which processes she used, but i can assure you that the matte ceramic is _amazing_, and her other samples are no slouches either. there's one in particular that is just out of this world, but i have to chat with her to make sure the coating won't be too thick.
the trick with color selection is that we have to purchase at least 100$ of each color to coat any boards in that color at all. coloring was originally costed at 600$ total, and is now probably going to be over 3000$. i set a fixed price and screwed up the costing all by myself, so i'll take the hit, but we can make the hit a bit smaller if we get creative with selection. i have some folks to talk with, but we'll post something around the end of the week if the ducks get lined up.
I don't want to get ahead of myself/ourselves here, but I still really really would love something approximating the Vector Purple and Aqua colors originally proposed. I understand that this is a different process, so it may not be possible, but the main point I'm making here is that I will pay extra for it to see it through to production. :thumb:Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/kfgKbcp.png)
I will await further feedback from you and Tammi, of course. :)
hey folks, home sick today so i wanted to give you a quick update
i received the sample colored plates from tammi @ rainbow yesterday. they're pretty amazing. i had some questions about exactly which processes she used, but i can assure you that the matte ceramic is _amazing_, and her other samples are no slouches either. there's one in particular that is just out of this world, but i have to chat with her to make sure the coating won't be too thick.
the trick with color selection is that we have to purchase at least 100$ of each color to coat any boards in that color at all. coloring was originally costed at 600$ total, and is now probably going to be over 3000$. i set a fixed price and screwed up the costing all by myself, so i'll take the hit, but we can make the hit a bit smaller if we get creative with selection. i have some folks to talk with, but we'll post something around the end of the week if the ducks get lined up.
So if our particular color choice doesn't make it can we pay the $100 to get it? Will there be any bronze or gold or even orange?
ps: get well soon :thumb:
i've picked the purple and it is indeed epic. titan gray and purple will be the first to go into production. because these colors are going to match the danco colors, i'm going to go ahead and start producing. i also have a color i like that is somewhere between aqua and light blue -- cerakote "robins egg blue". because i'm not sure where it fits, i'm not going to go into production on any of the blues or greens yet.
the purple is cerakote "bright purple" for reference.
I can't speak for others, but I speak for myself when I say that I want notched plates. I ordered an intentionally neutral color, and with my plans to install custom springs, switch tops, etc., a "badass" color wouldn't help me much. This project has changed enough as is; I'd like to keep the thing I paid an extra $50 for the same.
no, i've updated it now.i've picked the purple and it is indeed epic. titan gray and purple will be the first to go into production. because these colors are going to match the danco colors, i'm going to go ahead and start producing. i also have a color i like that is somewhere between aqua and light blue -- cerakote "robins egg blue". because i'm not sure where it fits, i'm not going to go into production on any of the blues or greens yet.
the purple is cerakote "bright purple" for reference.
ming -- did you get my PM about wanting switch back to raw for my order?
Just to clarify, these kits do not come with switches or caps?
my purp one is dedicated to you! Although, I'm not sure how long I will keep it since I am already trying to downsize
my initial color samples -- the pink and green in this sample batch will not go into production
(Attachment Link)
I'm going to pick up one of the pink plates. I'll take pictures and share them here so there's some more info on how the finish will look :). Pretty stoked for it actually.
matte clear
robins egg blue
bright purple
no, i've updated it now.i've picked the purple and it is indeed epic. titan gray and purple will be the first to go into production. because these colors are going to match the danco colors, i'm going to go ahead and start producing. i also have a color i like that is somewhere between aqua and light blue -- cerakote "robins egg blue". because i'm not sure where it fits, i'm not going to go into production on any of the blues or greens yet.
the purple is cerakote "bright purple" for reference.
ming -- did you get my PM about wanting switch back to raw for my order?
ooh, burnt bronze? any other takers?
no, i've updated it now.i've picked the purple and it is indeed epic. titan gray and purple will be the first to go into production. because these colors are going to match the danco colors, i'm going to go ahead and start producing. i also have a color i like that is somewhere between aqua and light blue -- cerakote "robins egg blue". because i'm not sure where it fits, i'm not going to go into production on any of the blues or greens yet.
the purple is cerakote "bright purple" for reference.
ming -- did you get my PM about wanting switch back to raw for my order?
ooh, burnt bronze? any other takers?
while we're looking at colors, here are some i really like:
http://www.cerakoteguncoatings.com/finishes/H-400Q/jesse-james-eastern-front-green/
http://www.cerakoteguncoatings.com/finishes/H-140Q/bright-white/
http://www.cerakoteguncoatings.com/finishes/H-240Q/mil-spec-od-green/
http://www.cerakoteguncoatings.com/finishes/H-216Q/smith-wesson-red/
I know I'd love Burnt Bronze for the bronze choice!
Come now, comrade, is this not fun? Are you not having fun?
Nearly a year later, and still in production. Some high-rises are built more quickly. This is why I stopped doing group buys.
Nearly a year later, and still in production. Some high-rises are built more quickly. This is why I stopped doing group buys.
Just choose your buys carefully. Some leaders are better than others.
the folks i'm working with are trying to help, and we might be able to give you insanely cool news if that all works out. if it doesn't, production will march on as it has been.
Status remains largely unchanged from my previous post (https://geekhack.org/index.php?topic=59203.1050). Plates are still being painted and I believe titan grey and purple ones are done. Other parts are waiting for the following to be resolved:the folks i'm working with are trying to help, and we might be able to give you insanely cool news if that all works out. if it doesn't, production will march on as it has been.
I don't really have much info on what's being tossed around but I will let mkawa announce anything that arises :)
Status remains largely unchanged from my previous post (https://geekhack.org/index.php?topic=59203.1050). Plates are still being painted and I believe titan grey and purple ones are done. Other parts are waiting for the following to be resolved:the folks i'm working with are trying to help, and we might be able to give you insanely cool news if that all works out. if it doesn't, production will march on as it has been.
I don't really have much info on what's being tossed around but I will let mkawa announce anything that arises :)
Sorry to be a bother but am I to understand cut-out plates are still yet to be done?
sigh. i hate to be so quiet on this front, but i am _still_ trying to work with some folks on some hopefully exciting developments for the parts of the kit that aren't titanium or sorbothane. i would not be trying so hard to work on this if i didn't think it was pretty exciting. that said, i also want to give people their kits, so i'm trying as hard as i can to balance the possibility of exciting vs the reality of sending people kits asap. i have been SWORN TO SECRECY on these discussions, but i will make a final decision next week.
on the upside, tammi and i have settled wild green for the green plates, ridgeway blue for deep blues, and are looking at burnt bronze for the bronze plates.
re: the cut-out plates, the ongoing discussions also involve those plates.
Will there be a sample done for burnt bronze? Curious to see how that comes out!!
neither bronze has been ordered yet. the green and blue colors have come in. we'll paint one of each to make sure it's what we want and then i'll go ahead with production of those colors.
we'll get to bronze after the ordered colors have been debugged and produced
neither bronze has been ordered yet. the green and blue colors have come in. we'll paint one of each to make sure it's what we want and then i'll go ahead with production of those colors.I'm OK with being a bronze guinea pig for my bottom plate if it would speed things up.
we'll get to bronze after the ordered colors have been debugged and produced
neither bronze has been ordered yet. the green and blue colors have come in. we'll paint one of each to make sure it's what we want and then i'll go ahead with production of those colors.
we'll get to bronze after the ordered colors have been debugged and produced
Working on the notched plates.
Purple plates have been painted and are headed towards me
neither bronze has been ordered yet. the green and blue colors have come in. we'll paint one of each to make sure it's what we want and then i'll go ahead with production of those colors.I'm OK with being a bronze guinea pig for my bottom plate if it would speed things up.
we'll get to bronze after the ordered colors have been debugged and produced
wait, do you want to guinea pig burnt bronze or regular bronze?neither bronze has been ordered yet. the green and blue colors have come in. we'll paint one of each to make sure it's what we want and then i'll go ahead with production of those colors.I'm OK with being a bronze guinea pig for my bottom plate if it would speed things up.
we'll get to bronze after the ordered colors have been debugged and produced
Can't seem to PM so bumping.
No preference whatever would be the most helpful.wait, do you want to guinea pig burnt bronze or regular bronze?neither bronze has been ordered yet. the green and blue colors have come in. we'll paint one of each to make sure it's what we want and then i'll go ahead with production of those colors.I'm OK with being a bronze guinea pig for my bottom plate if it would speed things up.
we'll get to bronze after the ordered colors have been debugged and produced
Can't seem to PM so bumping.
so what you're saying is that you want a neon pink plate with your name written on it in glitter?
although come to think of it, that would be incredibly awesome...
so what you're saying is that you want a neon pink plate with your name written on it in glitter?I have no preference so long as the bottom plate is bronze, burnt or otherwise. :P
although come to think of it, that would be incredibly awesome...
I'm confused. It sounds like things are already in production but the order form says 6 left. Are there still six orders open or is this GB closed?
So do we have an ETA for those of us who ordered raw plates? If I remember correctly from a month ago all we were waiting on was the PCB's to be made and fasteners.mkawa's big announcement will have to do with the PCBs. We couldn't have them made a month ago, due to the CNY holiday, and while that delay was happening, some other developments have come into play. Stay tuned!
wait, do you want to guinea pig burnt bronze or regular bronze?neither bronze has been ordered yet. the green and blue colors have come in. we'll paint one of each to make sure it's what we want and then i'll go ahead with production of those colors.I'm OK with being a bronze guinea pig for my bottom plate if it would speed things up.
we'll get to bronze after the ordered colors have been debugged and produced
Can't seem to PM so bumping.
i have 5 or 6 kits left. the next 6 kit orders will get no choice on colors (because you're going to get the cerakote experiments) but will get notched plates for free.
eta: basically, you're going to get a colored top plate of completely unknown, potentially multiple colors, and a gray bottom plate.
No seafoam?
titan gray (painted, done), purple (painted, done), green (not painted yet), blue (not painted yet), and it looks like bronze is a lock with all the interest.
:-(
good news everyone! we're converging on the announcement. huzzah!
mkawa wanted me to post this.
The color list is this:If you wanted Purple or Titan Grey you are good to go. Otherwise, you should resubmit the color preferences form (http://tinyurl.com/p64c2wy) and type the color you want into the Notes field (note that Purple is still open but Titan Grey is NOT). If no new color is picked, mkawa will use his judgment to pick the color closest to what your desired color is.
- Bronze (http://www.cerakoteguncoatings.com/finishes/H-259Q/barrett-bronze/)
- Burnt Bronze (http://www.cerakoteguncoatings.com/finishes/H-148Q/burnt-bronze/)
- Purple (http://www.cerakoteguncoatings.com/finishes/H-197Q/wild-purple/)
- Ridgeway Blue (http://www.cerakoteguncoatings.com/finishes/H-220Q/ridgeway-blue/)
- Robin's Egg Blue (http://www.cerakoteguncoatings.com/finishes/H-175Q/robins-egg-blue/)
- Wild Green (http://www.cerakoteguncoatings.com/finishes/H-207Q/wild-green/)
It's possible bronze and burnt bronze will end up collapsing into a single bronze color. Not sure which one.
mkawa wanted me to post this.
The color list is this:If you wanted Purple or Titan Grey you are good to go. Otherwise, you should resubmit the color preferences form (http://tinyurl.com/p64c2wy) and type the color you want into the Notes field (note that Purple is still open but Titan Grey is NOT). If no new color is picked, mkawa will use his judgment to pick the color closest to what your desired color is.
- Bronze (http://www.cerakoteguncoatings.com/finishes/H-259Q/barrett-bronze/)
- Burnt Bronze (http://www.cerakoteguncoatings.com/finishes/H-148Q/burnt-bronze/)
- Purple (http://www.cerakoteguncoatings.com/finishes/H-197Q/wild-purple/)
- Ridgeway Blue (http://www.cerakoteguncoatings.com/finishes/H-220Q/ridgeway-blue/)
- Robin's Egg Blue (http://www.cerakoteguncoatings.com/finishes/H-175Q/robins-egg-blue/)
- Wild Green (http://www.cerakoteguncoatings.com/finishes/H-207Q/wild-green/)
It's possible bronze and burnt bronze will end up collapsing into a single bronze color. Not sure which one.
That 'burnt bronze' you have linked I would call gold, not burnt bronze and the bronze looks brown.
That's a real bummer was really hoping for something with more of an orange tint. :-\
Edit: So are you saying we can no longer change to Titan Grey?
mkawa wanted me to post this.
The color list is this:If you wanted Purple or Titan Grey you are good to go. Otherwise, you should resubmit the color preferences form (http://tinyurl.com/p64c2wy) and type the color you want into the Notes field (note that Purple is still open but Titan Grey is NOT). If no new color is picked, mkawa will use his judgment to pick the color closest to what your desired color is.
- Bronze (http://www.cerakoteguncoatings.com/finishes/H-259Q/barrett-bronze/)
- Burnt Bronze (http://www.cerakoteguncoatings.com/finishes/H-148Q/burnt-bronze/)
- Purple (http://www.cerakoteguncoatings.com/finishes/H-197Q/wild-purple/)
- Ridgeway Blue (http://www.cerakoteguncoatings.com/finishes/H-220Q/ridgeway-blue/)
- Robin's Egg Blue (http://www.cerakoteguncoatings.com/finishes/H-175Q/robins-egg-blue/)
- Wild Green (http://www.cerakoteguncoatings.com/finishes/H-207Q/wild-green/)
It's possible bronze and burnt bronze will end up collapsing into a single bronze color. Not sure which one.
That 'burnt bronze' you have linked I would call gold, not burnt bronze and the bronze looks brown.
That's a real bummer was really hoping for something with more of an orange tint. :-\
Edit: So are you saying we can no longer change to Titan Grey?
I could be wrong about the actual color of the burnt bronze - there are actually two from the cerakote website. mkawa would know.
Correct, you can no longer change to Titan Grey. Well, you can type it in but I'm not sure what you will actually get!
I'm going to be so hyped if us that ordered bronze get burnt bronze cerakote. It is one of the most popular cerakote colors, so I'm sure they have painted it beforeShow Image(https://s-media-cache-ak0.pinimg.com/736x/27/e5/81/27e5816d291187566ea5d5969882d51e.jpg)
mkawa wanted me to post this.
The color list is this:
- Bronze (http://www.cerakoteguncoatings.com/finishes/H-259Q/barrett-bronze/)
- Burnt Bronze (http://www.cerakoteguncoatings.com/finishes/H-148Q/burnt-bronze/)
- Purple (http://www.cerakoteguncoatings.com/finishes/H-217Q/bright-purple/)
- Ridgeway Blue (http://www.cerakoteguncoatings.com/finishes/H-220Q/ridgeway-blue/)
- Robin's Egg Blue (http://www.cerakoteguncoatings.com/finishes/H-175Q/robins-egg-blue/)
- Wild Green (http://www.cerakoteguncoatings.com/finishes/H-207Q/wild-green/)
If you wanted Purple or Titan Grey you are good to go. Otherwise, you should resubmit the color preferences form (http://tinyurl.com/p64c2wy) and type the color you want into the Notes field (note that Purple is still open but Titan Grey is NOT). If no new color is picked, mkawa will use his judgment to pick the color closest to what your desired color is.
It's possible bronze and burnt bronze will end up collapsing into a single bronze color. Not sure which one.
I'd still prefer raw if that is an option.if you already had raw as your choice, you're getting a raw plate. i may be able to fit a few more raw plates in, but painted is going to be much easier for me to deal with at this point
bronze is a trainwreck.
I'm just going to say it's a real shame that pink didn't make the color cut. It's amazing.
people do love dat purple
mkawa wanted me to post this.
The color list is this:
- Bronze (http://www.cerakoteguncoatings.com/finishes/H-259Q/barrett-bronze/)
- Burnt Bronze (http://www.cerakoteguncoatings.com/finishes/H-148Q/burnt-bronze/)
- Purple (http://www.cerakoteguncoatings.com/finishes/H-217Q/bright-purple/)
- Ridgeway Blue (http://www.cerakoteguncoatings.com/finishes/H-220Q/ridgeway-blue/)
- Robin's Egg Blue (http://www.cerakoteguncoatings.com/finishes/H-175Q/robins-egg-blue/)
- Wild Green (http://www.cerakoteguncoatings.com/finishes/H-207Q/wild-green/)
If you wanted Purple or Titan Grey you are good to go. Otherwise, you should resubmit the color preferences form (http://tinyurl.com/p64c2wy) and type the color you want into the Notes field (note that Purple is still open but Titan Grey is NOT). If no new color is picked, mkawa will use his judgment to pick the color closest to what your desired color is.
It's possible bronze and burnt bronze will end up collapsing into a single bronze color. Not sure which one.
Also, what happens to us schmucks that bought a Teensy from Geekhackers?
Another important question. Will spock still be on the pcb?
Can we just get everything but the PCB?
If massdrop is fulfilling the PCBs late July? Does that mean that you will be able to ship the remaining components before then? Isn't painting 75% of the plates the only remaining step?
This is a little disappointing since I have been prototyping a Bluetooth mod based on a teensy compatible PCB.
Thanks for your patience! yep, you're going to get a brand new whiz bang pcb, and one that will be completely assembled save for the switches. i'm pretty excited about the new board actually. no more teensy weirdness, and firmware that tracks with the infinity 60% and the infinity ergodox (and .. maybe more? ;)); there will be a much easier configurator for layers, which is super important for the 40% layout, etc.
woah, that also makes me smiley sad..If massdrop is fulfilling the PCBs late July? Does that mean that you will be able to ship the remaining components before then? Isn't painting 75% of the plates the only remaining step?
This is a little disappointing since I have been prototyping a Bluetooth mod based on a teensy compatible PCB.
this post makes me sad smiley sad
:( sad smiley :(
Can you comment on LED support? I know the old board had holes but no traces, and I was wondering if I'd still need hookup wire.you won't need that annoying teensy to usb hookup wire anymore.
I am still interested in Vector Purple and Aqua, my original choices. Who do I have to pay off to make that happen?purple's done. is the robin's egg blue close enough to aqua for you? if not, we can work out an aqua.
would teensy people be interested in having that money go to a completely custom color?
woah, that also makes me smiley sad..If massdrop is fulfilling the PCBs late July? Does that mean that you will be able to ship the remaining components before then? Isn't painting 75% of the plates the only remaining step?
This is a little disappointing since I have been prototyping a Bluetooth mod based on a teensy compatible PCB.
this post makes me sad smiley sad
:( sad smiley :(
would you be interested in working on an infinity bluetooth mod? :cool:
this would be cool enough that i'd be interested on helping out with development :eek:
for folks who want gold, ray just pitched in for desert gold. any other takers? let's do this!
note we're doing desert gold regardless of whether others want in on it, so no need to think too hard. if you want it, you get it!
there's been enough people writing for burnt bronze that i'm going to go with that color. if you have a strong preference for bronze instead of burnt bronze, speak now or hold your peace!
would teensy people be interested in having that money go to a completely custom color?
Hi mkawa, I'm going with existing color choice, so I'd prefer a refund of my teensy please.
please pm me your order number and paypal address. thanks!would teensy people be interested in having that money go to a completely custom color?
Hi mkawa, I'm going with existing color choice, so I'd prefer a refund of my teensy please.
Just one thing I suddenly have in mind is that:
Will the newly design PCB be guaranteed to work with the titanium plates? I am just a little bit worried that the PCB will come out incompatible with our plates, rendering them useless.
Since it's still under design stage, it'd cool if mkawa could remind them about this point please. ;)
Just one thing I suddenly have in mind is that:
Will the newly design PCB be guaranteed to work with the titanium plates? I am just a little bit worried that the PCB will come out incompatible with our plates, rendering them useless.
Since it's still under design stage, it'd cool if mkawa could remind them about this point please. ;)
It's still my design. :)
I've been working with Massdrop and Input Club to get this done. Rest assured, the new PCBs will be 100% backward compatible with all existing JD40 hardware. The new PCB has more layout options, where the original PCB was a fixed layout. But the original layout is still there, so it can work with existing plates, such as the ones in this GB.
I would like my plates as such shipped as they are available. My order was raw as well so no painting to work on. Also, will the infinity keyboard firmware stuffs work with a handwired matrix on a teensy 3.x?The infinity/kiibohd firmware works with Teensy 3.x.
Just one thing I suddenly have in mind is that:
Will the newly design PCB be guaranteed to work with the titanium plates? I am just a little bit worried that the PCB will come out incompatible with our plates, rendering them useless.
Since it's still under design stage, it'd cool if mkawa could remind them about this point please. ;)
It's still my design. :)
I've been working with Massdrop and Input Club to get this done. Rest assured, the new PCBs will be 100% backward compatible with all existing JD40 hardware. The new PCB has more layout options, where the original PCB was a fixed layout. But the original layout is still there, so it can work with existing plates, such as the ones in this GB.
THIS BRONZE IS INCREDIBLEthere's been enough people writing for burnt bronze that i'm going to go with that color. if you have a strong preference for bronze instead of burnt bronze, speak now or hold your peace!
I was originally a proponent of burnt bronze but when you linked the later color options and the bronze linked to a darker bronze color, Barret Bronze, I fell in love with that.
I'm more interested in the darker coppery bronze tones.
I was hoping Barret Bronze looks more like below:Show Image(http://www.all4shooters.com/en/home/pro-zone/2013-articles/Barrett-MRAD-sniper-rifle/MS-Barrett-handguard.jpg?resize=930x870%3E)
I'm still willing to be a lab rat for the bronze option if one is needed. I'd also donate my teensy money to the name of color options as well.
woah, that also makes me smiley sad..If massdrop is fulfilling the PCBs late July? Does that mean that you will be able to ship the remaining components before then? Isn't painting 75% of the plates the only remaining step?
This is a little disappointing since I have been prototyping a Bluetooth mod based on a teensy compatible PCB.
this post makes me sad smiley sad
:( sad smiley :(
would you be interested in working on an infinity bluetooth mod? :cool:
this would be cool enough that i'd be interested on helping out with development :eek:
I still want to make a bluetooth enabled JD40. I see that the source code is available for the infinity keyboard controller. the controller has enough power to add bluetooth functionality.
Currently I'm thinking a slave module that houses a battery and bluetooth controller. which would communicate with the infinity controller on the PCB. But it would need usb power for charging, some form of communication with the onboard controller (some kind of serial or i2c), and a way to bypass the onboard regulator. (to enable the controller to run off batteries)
These are all things that can't be determined without the PCB design files or the PCB itself. So until the keyboards arrive I can't do much.
I also updated my color choices, because I have no clue what I picked 8 months ago. :)
UART would be perfect. I'm using TI's CC2541. And I have a friend who has developed a customs firmware for a Bluetooth to think pad keyboard. I have all the CC2541 development tools so I can implement whatever protocol will play well with the two controllers.woah, that also makes me smiley sad..If massdrop is fulfilling the PCBs late July? Does that mean that you will be able to ship the remaining components before then? Isn't painting 75% of the plates the only remaining step?
This is a little disappointing since I have been prototyping a Bluetooth mod based on a teensy compatible PCB.
this post makes me sad smiley sad
:( sad smiley :(
would you be interested in working on an infinity bluetooth mod? :cool:
this would be cool enough that i'd be interested on helping out with development :eek:
I still want to make a bluetooth enabled JD40. I see that the source code is available for the infinity keyboard controller. the controller has enough power to add bluetooth functionality.
Currently I'm thinking a slave module that houses a battery and bluetooth controller. which would communicate with the infinity controller on the PCB. But it would need usb power for charging, some form of communication with the onboard controller (some kind of serial or i2c), and a way to bypass the onboard regulator. (to enable the controller to run off batteries)
These are all things that can't be determined without the PCB design files or the PCB itself. So until the keyboards arrive I can't do much.
I also updated my color choices, because I have no clue what I picked 8 months ago. :)
Neat. What sort of Bluetooth module were you planning on using?
I'll be exposing a UART header (Rx and Tx of UART0) for debug purposes. However it could be repurposed for things like Bluetooth.
Exposing SPI is a bit trickier (never planned for SPI usage on the original Infinity, so it would require large schematic changes) so that's likely a no-go.
Something like http://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/RF-Digital/RFD22102/?qs=MxnWX8BLHKcwkuVNwF2v8A%3D%3D&kpid=1035900368&gclid=Cj0KEQjwgI6pBRDak6aRovWNqLsBEiQA8zZSLtYrBveTma82Vc61pqpdWxJ57cMTATaf0vpUaXxH3zIaApTK8P8HAQ (http://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/RF-Digital/RFD22102/?qs=MxnWX8BLHKcwkuVNwF2v8A%3D%3D&kpid=1035900368&gclid=Cj0KEQjwgI6pBRDak6aRovWNqLsBEiQA8zZSLtYrBveTma82Vc61pqpdWxJ57cMTATaf0vpUaXxH3zIaApTK8P8HAQ) works via UART or SPI.
This summer I'll be doing some investigation into this module to see if I can do NKRO Bluetooth (first via UART, then SPI).
THIS BRONZE IS INCREDIBLEthere's been enough people writing for burnt bronze that i'm going to go with that color. if you have a strong preference for bronze instead of burnt bronze, speak now or hold your peace!
I was originally a proponent of burnt bronze but when you linked the later color options and the bronze linked to a darker bronze color, Barret Bronze, I fell in love with that.
I'm more interested in the darker coppery bronze tones.
I was hoping Barret Bronze looks more like below:Show Image(http://www.all4shooters.com/en/home/pro-zone/2013-articles/Barrett-MRAD-sniper-rifle/MS-Barrett-handguard.jpg?resize=930x870%3E)
I'm still willing to be a lab rat for the bronze option if one is needed. I'd also donate my teensy money to the name of color options as well.
Purple plates have already been painted, correct?yah, rainbow still has them, but they are all done, and looking great. tammi hasn't packed them up yet; they're probably going to go in her next shipment back to me
Edit: yes they have
If you want a head-start, here's the datasheet you want http://cache.freescale.com/files/32bit/doc/ref_manual/K20P48M50SF0RM.pdf (http://cache.freescale.com/files/32bit/doc/ref_manual/K20P48M50SF0RM.pdf) Chapter 45 (pg. 1039).i think there's strictly more functionality on the kinetis you're using for the infinity than on that atmel chip, so hijacking a GPIO should be fine as long as the pin isn't being used in the current codebase. a uart output module is also a generally nice thing to have in the codebase regardless.
I have a debug module I use for using UART0 on the Infinity keyboard (mk20dx128vlf5), all the code to use it is already there.
https://github.com/kiibohd/controller/blob/master/Output/uartOut/arm/uart_serial.c
Most of the work is likely creating a new Output module (https://github.com/kiibohd/controller/tree/master/Output (https://github.com/kiibohd/controller/tree/master/Output)) that sends the USB descriptors via UART instead of USB.
Because the PCBs are still a ways out, if you want a dev board a Teensy 3.0 will work quite well (very close in specs). A 3.1 will also work, but you might run into some incompatibilities (unlikely though). I'm pretty busy right now with the Infinity ErgoDox, but you can find me on the #geekhack @ irc.freenode.net IRC channel if you want faster question response.
<snip> Rest assured, the new PCBs will be 100% backward compatible with all existing JD40 hardware. The new PCB has more layout options, where the original PCB was a fixed layout. But the original layout is still there, so it can work with existing plates, such as the ones in this GB.
<snip> Rest assured, the new PCBs will be 100% backward compatible with all existing JD40 hardware. The new PCB has more layout options, where the original PCB was a fixed layout. But the original layout is still there, so it can work with existing plates, such as the ones in this GB.
Will this same PCB also be the JD45 PCB?
What are the chances this will (ever) be available again on geekhackers? I was pretty late to the show.
What are the chances this will (ever) be available again on geekhackers? I was pretty late to the show.
Very low. However there are people still looking to sell their kits iirc.
Happy to sell mine at cost. Includes the notched plate and spare pcb, if I remember correctly.
I believe I selected raw titanium. I don't know whether there's still the option to change that if the order is taken over by someone else... anyone know?
i'll ship directly to the new buyer. use the contact form on the site to email me for the teensy refund and i'll get that taken care of asap
has anyone decided on a bluetooth dev kit yet? i'm getting closer to being able to hack on the infinity firmware and a BT mixed mode soc
has anyone decided on a bluetooth dev kit yet? i'm getting closer to being able to hack on the infinity firmware and a BT mixed mode soc
What does it take to drill through titanium plates. If i wanted to add a hole to the top plate (for a trackpoint). I understand the PCB will cause other issues. Just wondering about the titanium...
they would probably be in the $25 - $30 each range.
can we source canned + chipant cc2540 module that doesn't have a counterfeit chip on it? ;)has anyone decided on a bluetooth dev kit yet? i'm getting closer to being able to hack on the infinity firmware and a BT mixed mode soc
I've always been planning to use the CC2540. You can buy pre-buit modules for cheaper than a tall cappuccino. (http://www.aliexpress.com/item/Bluetooth-4-0-BLE-from-serial-communication-module-straight-drive-mode-CC2540-CC2541-RF-BM-S02/32267866296.html)
These module come with a simple serial to bluetooth application. However if you get one with P21/P20 broken out, and have TI's dev tool CC debugger. You can program your own application code, I have seen it work flawlessly running a bluetooth keyboard protocol. The CC2540 has 2 hardware UART modules. Basically all it needs to do is interpret UART messages that the infinity PCB spits out.
I have made a minimal start, but probably won't make much progress without the infinity PCB.
Hardware should be trivial, Might take a bit of testing to determine the ideal location for the bluetooth module to get the best wireless performance.
Yes. The BR-LE 4.0 S3A you linked to states this in the description "Each BR-LE 4.0-S3A utilizes the TI CC2541 SoC".can we source canned + chipant cc2540 module that doesn't have a counterfeit chip on it? ;)has anyone decided on a bluetooth dev kit yet? i'm getting closer to being able to hack on the infinity firmware and a BT mixed mode soc
I've always been planning to use the CC2540. You can buy pre-buit modules for cheaper than a tall cappuccino. (http://www.aliexpress.com/item/Bluetooth-4-0-BLE-from-serial-communication-module-straight-drive-mode-CC2540-CC2541-RF-BM-S02/32267866296.html)
These module come with a simple serial to bluetooth application. However if you get one with P21/P20 broken out, and have TI's dev tool CC debugger. You can program your own application code, I have seen it work flawlessly running a bluetooth keyboard protocol. The CC2540 has 2 hardware UART modules. Basically all it needs to do is interpret UART messages that the infinity PCB spits out.
I have made a minimal start, but probably won't make much progress without the infinity PCB.
Hardware should be trivial, Might take a bit of testing to determine the ideal location for the bluetooth module to get the best wireless performance.
for folks who want gold, ray just pitched in for desert gold. any other takers? let's do this!
note we're doing desert gold regardless of whether others want in on it, so no need to think too hard. if you want it, you get it!
tammi just got back from vacation and is receiving the rest of the plates in a couple of days. she's going to do the colors that aren't gold and bronze first. i have a count on the gold and bronze and the list of colors people have put out there. i'll run them by her when she gets the plates. she's found some colors to be harder to apply, so i've been tossing out colors to her first.for folks who want gold, ray just pitched in for desert gold. any other takers? let's do this!
note we're doing desert gold regardless of whether others want in on it, so no need to think too hard. if you want it, you get it!
Any updates on this?
I am still interested in Vector Purple and Aqua, my original choices. Who do I have to pay off to make that happen?purple's done. is the robin's egg blue close enough to aqua for you? if not, we can work out an aqua.
if it's cool i will do my best to move heaven and earth to gitrdun
gold has been collapsed to burnt bronze (there were very few golds). the painter is in a rush to get the plates out the door, so final (desired) numbers have been given for each paint code we ended up with. i expect that there will inevitably be color trades as people color coordinate with switches and keys. note that the most common colors by a mile were purple and titan gray, so there are more than enough of those to go around. there were actually not that many per color of the other colors, so i've filled them in to the best of my ability.
i am hopefully going to be able to help people with trading and with custom colors ex post facto without too much drama or cost. i have finally made some progress on sourcing more material at much more reasonable prices. fingers crossed and i know the second i just wrote that everything's going to come crashing down, but there you go.
realistically, i'm not going to make everyone 100% happy. the realities of budget busting and manufacturing have already come crashing down on that. if i get can get everyone to 75 or 80% i'll be blown away. yet, we try (for 100 we try harder, etc.)
Yes. Though it may have some differences in comparison to the smallfry (these are yet to be determined).I would assume no Sorbothane gasket, and probably not titanium plates.
OK I received the teensy refund and while I appreciate that I wanted to address the fact that in the notes of the refund this request was referred to as a snide comment.gold has been collapsed to burnt bronze (there were very few golds). the painter is in a rush to get the plates out the door, so final (desired) numbers have been given for each paint code we ended up with. i expect that there will inevitably be color trades as people color coordinate with switches and keys. note that the most common colors by a mile were purple and titan gray, so there are more than enough of those to go around. there were actually not that many per color of the other colors, so i've filled them in to the best of my ability.
i am hopefully going to be able to help people with trading and with custom colors ex post facto without too much drama or cost. i have finally made some progress on sourcing more material at much more reasonable prices. fingers crossed and i know the second i just wrote that everything's going to come crashing down, but there you go.
realistically, i'm not going to make everyone 100% happy. the realities of budget busting and manufacturing have already come crashing down on that. if i get can get everyone to 75 or 80% i'll be blown away. yet, we try (for 100 we try harder, etc.)
Ok so are you saying I will be getting the custom color in exchange for the teensy you didn't refund or you will now refund the teensy and I'm getting a color I did not want?
But I must be the only one that still cares at this point or at least the only one willing to publicly say something. It's funny what people voice in private but won't say openly.
if we're updating the pcb, can we PLEASE add another hole for the 'enter' key.
i want to reverse a DSA stepped capslock on there
PLEASE PLEASE
remember last year when there was video updates?...good times ^-^
i was going to write something long and concrete about this to keep speculation down to a minimum, but screw it.
andrew has left massdrop. massdrop has since reneged on their schedule, donation and pretty much everything else that was ever said to me. i've given the parties involved enough time, and i give up. at current, i am no longer associated with either massdrop.com in any way shape or form.
the concrete plan has changed to me paying for an alternate design courtesy of carpekeyboards and in collaboration with bunnylake at ctrlalt.io, which have always been friends of the site, myself and the community, and won't spend 6 months screwing me and the group of thousands of dollars and hours/weeks of wasted time. if i sound bitter about massdrop, it's because i am; i have expressed this privately, diplomatically for months now, but massdrop.com does not deserve a single dollar from the keyboard community or commercial use of any of the community development that it has taken advantage since its inception.
regarding the new carpekeyboards pcb, it features an integrated controller that runs Hasu's TMK firmware (ie, same firmware as the classic JD40), and has more connectivity around the switches.
bunny has just ordered the first round of prototype boards. we'll be updating more often now that we have control of things again. carpekeyboards is making extremely good progress on the design, and once they're ready to talk about it in more detail, anything they say about their new design will apply to the smallfry as well. we are all paying for this board out of pocket, so please accept some patience on making sure the board is correct and costs are contained; at the moment we're looking at prices around 3x the cost of the original jd40 pcb, so i'm attempting to work out more buyers or less assembly at the factory.
FINAL NOTE: i have never said this explicitly (and no one has ever offered, despite me stating several times that there is no money for donation to the Walter family) BUT if anyone is willing to NOT TAKE DELIVERY of their product, I will donate any and all kit payments directly to the Walter family. Again, I still cannot give refunds, but if you opt to NOT RECEIVE YOUR PRODUCT, I WILL DONATE YOUR PAYMENT TO THE SMALLFRY'S FAMILY.
thanks for your patience everyone.
i'll pack your stuff up spamray.Thanks. Let me know if you need some extra shipping money.
Similarly, can I pay a separate shipping fee to have my PCB and hardware shipped separately? Or at least use my Teensy money, if that's not going towards paint...can do. pm me your order number to remind me.
i've found and committed to a new supply of titanium and have found a new less expensive cutter to manufacture and cut some of the losses from the notched plates. because i've committed to the new material, can't refund the notched plates. i am absolutely willing to donate notched plate payments though.
if i sound bitter about massdrop, it's because i am; i have expressed this privately, diplomatically for months now, but massdrop.com does not deserve a single dollar from the keyboard community or commercial use of any of the community development that it has taken advantage of since its inception.
FINAL NOTE: i have never said this explicitly (and no one has ever offered, despite me stating several times that there is no money for donation to the Walter family) BUT if anyone is willing to NOT TAKE DELIVERY of their product, I will donate any and all kit payments directly to the Walter family. Again, I still cannot give refunds, but if you opt to NOT RECEIVE YOUR PRODUCT, I WILL DONATE YOUR PAYMENT TO THE SMALLFRY'S FAMILY.
CtrlAlt website says they are down for website rebuild
Sneak peek of the new PCB render for you guys.Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/eey2pcI.png)
This is being sent to manufacture for prototypes now. As soon as we are sure we have a 100% working PCB, orders will be placed for the production run (about 4-6 weeks probably).
Huge thanks to Wilba for the PCB redesign, and to BunnyLake and mkawa for their continued support.
Sneak peek of the new PCB render for you guys.Very nice. :thumb:Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/eey2pcI.png)
This is being sent to manufacture for prototypes now. As soon as we are sure we have a 100% working PCB, orders will be placed for the production run (about 4-6 weeks probably).
Huge thanks to Wilba for the PCB redesign, and to BunnyLake and mkawa for their continued support.
Is this going to have all the diodes and stuff on it? That seems to be the trend lately.Since they are SMD components, I would assume so.
Is this going to have all the diodes and stuff on it? That seems to be the trend lately.Since they are SMD components, I would assume so.
It is a few dollars extra per PCB, but worth it in the end, in my opinion.
It is a few dollars extra per PCB, but worth it in the end, in my opinion.
As someone without proper SMD soldering gear, I would have to agree.
Sounds like MD wants to steal the design so offering sort of help. And later "clarify" to break the deal. Now that design is stolen, no effort worked out by MD. Shameful.It's not really like that, but I did decide to go in a different direction for the project.
going to pack up the partials tomorrow and get them to the PO when I get back into town on wed.
re: costing. the plates alone ended up costing somewhere in the realm of 120 per kit. (well, a bit more than that due to shipping costs, other misc ancillaries)
5. i should actually be able to pack up the partial kits i owe people today.
Will this keyboard be compatible with ISO layout?This keyboard is way too small to support either standard ANSI or ISO. And if you mean only the ISO Enter, no to that also. :)
5. i should actually be able to pack up the partial kits i owe people today.
Any chance these are going out soon?
5. i should actually be able to pack up the partial kits i owe people today.
Any chance these are going out soon?
ok, so i have:
a couple different fastener choices that i'd like people to try out
stabs
usb jacks that aren't super useful anymore, but hey, if you still need one, bam!
plates
gaskets
the new fastener scheme is o-ring secured. there is a bolt and a locknut for each mounting hole on the board. the bolt and nut are designed so that there is a teensy bit of space between the top of the bolt and the plate. the o-ring is then stretched between the bolt-head on the top plate and the bolt head on the bottom plate.
the idea is for it to work like this:Show Image(http://gearmoose.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/01/omega-titanium-wallet-e1359048828201.jpg)
At some point the innovating has to end so these can be fulfilled. There is always another delay.
I guess I'll just have to hope this shows up at some point I'm sick of coming to this thread and getting pissed every time because of the empty commitments.
i didn't have fasteners, so i bought some fasteners and some o-rings. but OK, i will send your kit without fasteners ray. i think i will also send it by throwing it at your head.
yes, the gasket is 80 duro (hard), and the previous expectation was that the user would poke holes in them for long fasteners, which i could not find (i think dorkvader has them).
i am still happy to actually donate money to the walter family for those who have any concern for charity and don't just enjoy *****ing. if you do not believe that you will ever receive product (unless you complain? i don't know, you are the one doing the reasoning here), which is the total of your liability in this project, then please let me know and you will not receive product, but i will donate your entire contribution to the walter family.
thanks.
yes, i hadn't done that yet, and yes, it was quite rude, and frankly pretty satisfying. i work very long hours at a job that pays me money, and then i use that money, which is not money that was paid to me by spamray, to finish production (and, because of the way these things work, i have to produce about 2x what my obligation is, in addition to the budget blowing out for every single ordered kit). this project eats up time and money that i would love to put elsewhere, for example, into a donation to smallfry's family or their choice of charity.
if this were a community group buy, about 20 people would have just dropped out of running it and/or disappeared from the face of the earth. but this isn't. this is my group buy, and even though i am paying for people to make snide remarks about me, i continue to do so. i don't appreciate these snide remarks, and there are many ways that you can extricate yourself from this particular situation such that you would feel no need to make the snide remarks and i wouldn't have to listen to them. yet, here i am.
as you say, i have been held to a certain decorum in the past, but putting one's chin up for people who blame you for pretty much everything bad that happens in their internet and/or consumer life has taken its toll. i will deliver these things to you, but at this point the schedule in which i do that is going to have to live within the realm of possibility, which may not be compatible with your patience. sorry, but that's how it's going to have to work. now if you'll excuse me, i have to manage the quoting out, paying for and logistics of cutting another 50lbs of titanium sheet, test fitment of the new pcb in the old gasket design, design a new fastener system that is reliable and repeatable, work with exotic industrial lubricants to provide something cool and previously unobtainable to the community, and put 60-70 hours a week into the job that pays for all this. does it excuse being late? not really. but them's the breaks sometimes.
i'm in a pretty crappy position, you're in a crappy position (albeit a hundred dollars of crappy position vs a few thousand+), and the least we can do is not try to make it more crappy for each other than it has to be.
thanks.
I have far bigger problems than late keyboards and I'm jealous of anyone who doesn't. God bless you complainers and your first world problems. Hopefully you all survive your terminal hang nails and stage 4 mustard stains. Hang in there mkawa.Oh yea, such first world problems, not getting stuff you paid for.
If the 'stuff' isn't food or shelter then yes. That's more or less the definition of a first world problem.Yes but most people don't go around diminishing other people's complaints about a product simply because that thing isn't literally essential to their survival.
Most people shouldn't be complaining here at. I'm really very sorry about your little keyboard but you should go complain elsewhere. Since this thread is meant for updates relating to the buy you can go start a thread of your own. You can call it 'hwood34's Tears' and you can cry about late GB's and how horrible mkawa is for trying to remedy this situation. I don't care about your feelings. In order to end this inane conversation, I will not be responding to whatever wimpy remark you are about to make.Well actually it's a group buy thread, so literally anything relating to the buy belongs in here. I'm not even in the buy, I just don't like people saying that having concerns isn't a valid stance. He wouldn't have to remedy a situation if one was never caused in the first place, and the way he's going about it isn't the right way in many people's eyes
<snip> I'm not even in the buy, </snip>
I was just defending the position of those who wish to complain, not complaining about the buy myself.
<snip> I'm not even in the buy, </snip>
I see.
Perhaps you grew tired of also commenting in Harry's TaiHao thread, the GH60 thread, and any other GB thread that didn't meet your standards for justice?
Look, this is a mess and no one will claim otherwise. Some people are more upset than others, and others would call mkawa a friend and get upset in the other direction. As someone *even in this groupbuy* imho it's best to leave emotion at the door and recognize that GB is not retail and this isn't as bad as it could be. Anger and frustration is understandable but not really productive. Arguments with people with no skin in the game is even less so.
i've tried bolts before, and can order more long bolts.. long bolts require poking a hole through the gasket, which usually resulted in some misalignment of the gasket.. there's no point in doing both the o-rings and long bolts. the o-rings tension the gasket into compression, and the nut side of the bolts holds the gasket in place laterally without having to poke holes through anything. i have fitment for long bolts though, so i can do both, and make more gaskets available for purchase if you poke holes and then decide to switch.
sth: up to the mods.
all: you know, if you're in the boston area and would like to help, my door is always open to geekers.
is it totally out of line of me to offer my JD40 for sale here to people who missed the group buy?
sth: up to the mods.
If you are trying to sell your spot in a group buy, you should do so in the corresponding group buy thread instead of in the Classifieds.
is it totally out of line of me to offer my JD40 for sale here to people who missed the group buy?sth: up to the mods.
Group Buy threads are the place to sell your spot if you do not have the item in hand yet (as is the case here) - it's kind of hidden in the Classifieds rules, quoted below. The organizer must agree to change the shipment info on their end, we can't force that. In the event that they do not cooperate, it's best to wait for shipment and sell it in Classifieds. If this is confusing, please let me know. :)If you are trying to sell your spot in a group buy, you should do so in the corresponding group buy thread instead of in the Classifieds.
is it totally out of line of me to offer my JD40 for sale here to people who missed the group buy?sth: up to the mods.
Group Buy threads are the place to sell your spot if you do not have the item in hand yet (as is the case here) - it's kind of hidden in the Classifieds rules, quoted below. The organizer must agree to change the shipment info on their end, we can't force that. In the event that they do not cooperate, it's best to wait for shipment and sell it in Classifieds. If this is confusing, please let me know. :)If you are trying to sell your spot in a group buy, you should do so in the corresponding group buy thread instead of in the Classifieds.
I thought he was talking about the JD40 not the smallfry kit. ie he has a JD40 in his hands. And wants to sell it. Thinking that people looking at this thread might be a good target audience. I may have misinterpreted though.
yes that - i have one that jdcarpe made.
dark blues ended up turning into purple due to the need to compress colorsby dark blue, you don't mean ridgeway blue do you? Ridgeway blue is still happening right?
Any chance we can get a picture of just the gasket?
I'm curious if it's a solid loop or not.
Any chance we can get a picture of just the gasket?
I'm curious if it's a solid loop or not.
https://www.dropbox.com/s/lqqrwojt0894x5b/2015-07-12%2019.55.57.jpg?dl=0
it's solid with a gap for the usb cable. cost would have been about 5-10x more if we had put holes in. demolding around the holes would have trashed the yield. left is the 80 duro that i ended up going with. right is 40 duro (very soft) with ptfe coating that i tried after vibex reported the 40 duro being too sticky.
next run i'll consider ptfe coated 80 duro, but i'm thinking of a somewhat different gasket design for larger keyboards (Xs like bridge supports through the center instead of a gasket around the edges).
JD has spacers if you go that route. double threaded spacers are non-trivially expensive on top of the gasket price. long bolts are fine though. i'll pick up more.
Any chance we can get a picture of just the gasket?
I'm curious if it's a solid loop or not.
https://www.dropbox.com/s/lqqrwojt0894x5b/2015-07-12%2019.55.57.jpg?dl=0
it's solid with a gap for the usb cable. cost would have been about 5-10x more if we had put holes in. demolding around the holes would have trashed the yield. left is the 80 duro that i ended up going with. right is 40 duro (very soft) with ptfe coating that i tried after vibex reported the 40 duro being too sticky.
next run i'll consider ptfe coated 80 duro, but i'm thinking of a somewhat different gasket design for larger keyboards (Xs like bridge supports through the center instead of a gasket around the edges).
JD has spacers if you go that route. double threaded spacers are non-trivially expensive on top of the gasket price. long bolts are fine though. i'll pick up more.
How much would spacers run us, if we picked them up on our own?
hey folks. i'm still alive, but quite ill (not mortally, just regular sick). before this thing hit me like bricks, i was bagging plates. will get back to it when i make it out of bed.
Have we gotten any news about the pcbs recently?
Also where are we at currently in production?
Have we gotten any news about the pcbs recently?
Also where are we at currently in production?
I just got the prototype PCB a few days ago, but I haven't had time to build it up yet. It looks good, though, and hopefully production on those can start really soon.
hey folks. i'm still alive, but quite ill (not mortally, just regular sick). before this thing hit me like bricks, i was bagging plates. will get back to it when i make it out of bed.
Have we gotten any news about the pcbs recently?
Also where are we at currently in production?
I just got the prototype PCB a few days ago, but I haven't had time to build it up yet. It looks good, though, and hopefully production on those can start really soon.
Have we gotten any news about the pcbs recently?
Also where are we at currently in production?
I just got the prototype PCB a few days ago, but I haven't had time to build it up yet. It looks good, though, and hopefully production on those can start really soon.
Sweet! Regarding the firmware, IIRC this new PCB will run TMK, but I don't see a JD40 config directory in the TMK git repo (https://github.com/tmk/tmk_keyboard/tree/master/keyboard). Do you have a default config file available elsewhere? I'd love to get an early look at it while we wait.
Have we gotten any news about the pcbs recently?
Also where are we at currently in production?
I just got the prototype PCB a few days ago, but I haven't had time to build it up yet. It looks good, though, and hopefully production on those can start really soon.
Sweet! Regarding the firmware, IIRC this new PCB will run TMK, but I don't see a JD40 config directory in the TMK git repo (https://github.com/tmk/tmk_keyboard/tree/master/keyboard). Do you have a default config file available elsewhere? I'd love to get an early look at it while we wait.
It's in my fork: https://github.com/Wilba6582/tmk_keyboard
hey folks. i'm still alive, but quite ill (not mortally, just regular sick). before this thing hit me like bricks, i was bagging plates. will get back to it when i make it out of bed.
keep your germs off my plate!!!!!HJKFH!!!!!VBABWAWAAHHH!!!!!
:p
ps- feel better
update guys: i'm going to try to fly back so i'm in boston again on the 12th. the pcb effort is still chugging along. it's looking pretty good though. i had some other stuff come in while i was gone. doing my best, but the family situation takes priority and well... it's not looking good.. :(
folks,
a close family member is terminally ill. there are no interventions left, and it is only a question of when and not if. in addition, he is across the country from me, and has limited help for day-to-day hour-to-hour issues now that i am back in boston.
thank you for your thoughts. i am really officially begging for help at this point (like seriously). if you're in new england, please give me a ring.
-Ming
folks,
a close family member is terminally ill. there are no interventions left, and it is only a question of when and not if. in addition, he is across the country from me, and has limited help for day-to-day hour-to-hour issues now that i am back in boston.
thank you for your thoughts. i am really officially begging for help at this point (like seriously). if you're in new england, please give me a ring.
-Ming
i mostly need help packing and sorting.I start up class again soon, so I'll be up in boston the 4th. Just let me know if you want me to help. :thumb:
vibex, can you talk with dv about finding a weekend day when you can both come over and we can have a packing party? i have to do about 6-6.5 days/wk right now, so give me a heads up so i can fit it into the schedule.Will do :thumb:
jd's and willba's prototypes are working. a pack of prototypes sent to bunny were lost in transit :(. i have one unstuffed pcb and one stuffed pcb that needs switches. our pcb vendor is in the state (we're not doing production in china), so production turnaround will be fairly fast once we place the order. i'd like us all to sign off on things before we toss a couple grand at production, so i think i'm going to grab a couple of blanks and parts and do some musical chairs so that bunny gets some protos.
in the meantime, willba, jd and bunny have been keeping very busy. highly suggest checking out their current launches.
Think anyone will want to buy my order if I post it up at a discount?
I was happy to help with the cause, but now I've lost interest and would rather have the cash for other things.
Think anyone will want to buy my order if I post it up at a discount?
I was happy to help with the cause, but now I've lost interest and would rather have the cash for other things.
Someone would have to be a complete idiot to buy one of these orders at this point.
I already feel like an idiot for buying one to begin with. :-\
Hey guys. I have talked with mkawa. He is still alive. He is going through some stuff right now and asked me to post here.
He is dealing with a relative that essentially terminal, on the other side of the country, working 80 hour weeks along with working on his car 2 days a week just to keep it running. He didn't go into details on that.
LOL I'm so glad I didn't join this.
LOL I'm so glad I didn't join this.
Don't worry, wherever he is I'm sure he's already doing that.LOL I'm so glad I didn't join this.
Go be an ******* somewhere else.
Looks great, Wished I grabbed one when they were in stock.
Looks great, Wished I grabbed one when they were in stock.
Looks great, Wished I grabbed one when they were in stock.
Me too
all the plates are bagged. rainbow found another 25 plates in my pile of stuff that hadn't painted. those are painted and will be headed to me next week. i have to get my fastener guys looking for the fasteners and o-rings needed to get me bulk quotes (there are like 30 parts per kit). i originally specced tiny inch hex fasteners that i will have to change to phillips so that you guys don't have to buy allen wrenches to put things together (or i will have them quote the allen wrenches as well).
here is the sitch: i have a chronic gastrointestinal disorder. i have a terminally ill family member. i work _a lot_, and it's no secret that i'm not particularly happy about the situation there. however, this is an obligation that is work, and the only thing i enjoy is getting work done. certainly, fixating on the other stuff is not going to be particularly healthy. thanks for patience, and nasty words -- i know frustration well, and yours is justified.
Yah, I'm alive for some definition of the word, and I have 60-70lbs of titanium plates bagged in my basement. The fastener wholesale guys are local and are going to be a heck of a lot cheaper than McMaster, but they have to go searching for the parts. All the fasteners are nylon to protect the paint, which makes them harder to find in bulk but cheaper when they are found.
Pcbs will probably be pick and placed to a bare minimum for cost reasons. Probably just the atmega placed by the factory, but again these guys are local so I'll have a chat.
I just got a deluge of emails, especially involving more plate cuts. The new material is sitting at the cutters waiting for me to nest an entire 4x4' sheet worth of cuts and work out a payment plan with them, since it's going to cost 3k$+ for all those cuts.
Wrt address changes, I will be sending out individual address confirmation emails when I do start sending parts out.
Thanks everyone.
Srs question, will these be shipped this year?
https://geekhack.org/index.php?topic=74004.new#new
it will be shipped this year.
Srs question, will these be shipped this year?https://geekhack.org/index.php?topic=74004.new#new
it will be shipped this year.
Based on all that mkawa has done for GeekHack and the spirit by which the group buy was created -- that was really hash GSimon.
Ming has been very upfront about his health and family issues and explaining the delays.
Tick tock.
Admit you can't ship them, you got in over your head and are too broke.
Man up, the sympathy card you keep playing expired months ago.
Also people please stop thanking him for his bi-monthly updates (if that). They have been proven to be entirely meaningless and you're just comforting an incompetent GB organizer who was careless with your $
Based on all that mkawa has done for GeekHack in the past and the reasons behind this group buy -- this is really harsh GSimon.
Being a jerk on the Internet is not motivating anyone to send you anything no matter what you payed.I'm kind of motivated to send him a poo in a box.
Being a jerk on the Internet is not motivating anyone to send you anything no matter what you payed.
I think taking $10,000 of other people's money in the name of charity and bailing is a jerk move, more so than words on a message board, but that's just my insane reality.
Cool story, bro.
I guess no one wants to ask, but I'll bite. The boards are supposed to ship this year, but with ten days between now and 2016, and a month and a half since the most recent update, can we get a more recent status?
I don't know what's going on with mkawa, as I haven't heard from him in quite a while now. If he would ship out what he has, I can probably raise the funds to get people their PCBs. I would need to know who ordered what, but I'm willing to help in any way I can. I have access to both the old and new revisions of the PCB, whichever people would prefer.And since I've offered to pay again for my shipping to get my stuff from mkawa multiple times over the last few months, I get the impression he has no interest in fulfilling orders.
Apparently I'm not allowed to post on thisI've noticed your post getting deleted without any sort of explanation..It is a bit concerning..ponzi schemegroup buy thread because I have a dissenting opinion.
Apparently I'm not allowed to post on thisI've noticed your post getting deleted without any sort of explanation..It is a bit concerning..ponzi schemegroup buy thread because I have a dissenting opinion.
It would be concerning if it was mkawa deleting them, but last I checked he doesn't have that power.He's still got plenty of friends who do.
Apparently I'm not allowed to post on thisI've noticed your post getting deleted without any sort of explanation..It is a bit concerning..ponzi schemegroup buy thread because I have a dissenting opinion.
Thanks for the transparent explanation. It can be pretty disconcerting when a post calling a group buy a scam is removed.
Personally I think mkawa's vendor status should be called into question.
Personally I think mkawa's vendor status should be called into question.
Personally I think mkawa's vendor status should be called into question.
I would be blown away if anyone even remotely considered giving money to mkawa again outside of charity.
Apparently I'm not allowed to post on thisI've noticed your post getting deleted without any sort of explanation..It is a bit concerning..ponzi schemegroup buy thread because I have a dissenting opinion.
Yeah... I guess that's how they roll around here. I was ****ing around making quasi-snide comments simply to underpin how people are still considering this board a reality, but apparently it's not ok.
If your posts contributed anything to the discussion they wouldn't have been deleted. But when your posts amount to nothing more than "LOL, suckers" and you're not even in the group buy, why on Earth would we keep that?
A "dissenting opinion" is very much not the reason they were removed...
Personally I think mkawa's vendor status should be called into question.FWIW, I purchased a soldapullt from geekhackers on October 15th and it shipped fairly fast (within a week). Granted that is not related to this buy, but it is something that (afaik) mkawa ships out.
If your posts contributed anything to the discussion they wouldn't have been deleted. But when your posts amount to nothing more than "LOL, suckers" and you're not even in the group buy, why on Earth would we keep that?
A "dissenting opinion" is very much not the reason they were removed...
Bro... we've moved on.
He may not have contributed to the discussion, but I think he represents a fear that we all have about this buy, that has as of yet gone unaddressed.
He may not have contributed to the discussion, but I think he represents a fear that we all have about this buy, that has as of yet gone unaddressed.
Thank you. I'm not just here to troll and be a douche. I'm trying to make a point.
I've followed this GB since its inception. I was really close to joining, but I didn't feel great about it, so I passed. Not to mention, simply because someone doesn't join a group buy, it absolutely shouldn't prohibit them from having an opinion or a voice on an event within the community. Honestly, this thread really isn't even about the board anymore. It's become about how to deal with the fact that this GB is completely shipwrecked and how the organizer made off with the cash that was taken in the name of a deceased community member. If anyone here is more concerned with me saying "I'm so glad I didn't join this" over the aforementioned point, you should rethink why you post.
He may not have contributed to the discussion, but I think he represents a fear that we all have about this buy, that has as of yet gone unaddressed.
Thank you. I'm not just here to troll and be a douche. I'm trying to make a point.
I've followed this GB since its inception. I was really close to joining, but I didn't feel great about it, so I passed. Not to mention, simply because someone doesn't join a group buy, it absolutely shouldn't prohibit them from having an opinion or a voice on an event within the community. Honestly, this thread really isn't even about the board anymore. It's become about how to deal with the fact that this GB is completely shipwrecked and how the organizer made off with the cash that was taken in the name of a deceased community member. If anyone here is more concerned with me saying "I'm so glad I didn't join this" over the aforementioned point, you should rethink why you post.
He may not have contributed to the discussion, but I think he represents a fear that we all have about this buy, that has as of yet gone unaddressed.
Thank you. I'm not just here to troll and be a douche. I'm trying to make a point.
I've followed this GB since its inception. I was really close to joining, but I didn't feel great about it, so I passed. Not to mention, simply because someone doesn't join a group buy, it absolutely shouldn't prohibit them from having an opinion or a voice on an event within the community. Honestly, this thread really isn't even about the board anymore. It's become about how to deal with the fact that this GB is completely shipwrecked and how the organizer made off with the cash that was taken in the name of a deceased community member. If anyone here is more concerned with me saying "I'm so glad I didn't join this" over the aforementioned point, you should rethink why you post.
but thankful I can watch the fallout.
IIRC your original post the other day was along the lines of "I'm glad I didn't join this buy but I'm enjoying watching the fallout." That's trolling. Just because the post was deleted doesn't mean you can revise the history here. You're here to troll.He may not have contributed to the discussion, but I think he represents a fear that we all have about this buy, that has as of yet gone unaddressed.
Thank you. I'm not just here to troll and be a douche. I'm trying to make a point.
I've followed this GB since its inception. I was really close to joining, but I didn't feel great about it, so I passed. Not to mention, simply because someone doesn't join a group buy, it absolutely shouldn't prohibit them from having an opinion or a voice on an event within the community. Honestly, this thread really isn't even about the board anymore. It's become about how to deal with the fact that this GB is completely shipwrecked and how the organizer made off with the cash that was taken in the name of a deceased community member. If anyone here is more concerned with me saying "I'm so glad I didn't join this" over the aforementioned point, you should rethink why you post.
If anything, I think it brings up the fact that none of us should give any more money to this GB without some sort of clear plan to finish this...
He may not have contributed to the discussion, but I think he represents a fear that we all have about this buy, that has as of yet gone unaddressed.
Thank you. I'm not just here to troll and be a douche. I'm trying to make a point.
I've followed this GB since its inception. I was really close to joining, but I didn't feel great about it, so I passed. Not to mention, simply because someone doesn't join a group buy, it absolutely shouldn't prohibit them from having an opinion or a voice on an event within the community. Honestly, this thread really isn't even about the board anymore. It's become about how to deal with the fact that this GB is completely shipwrecked and how the organizer made off with the cash that was taken in the name of a deceased community member. If anyone here is more concerned with me saying "I'm so glad I didn't join this" over the aforementioned point, you should rethink why you post.
And how exactly does your post help the situation?
Possibly because it makes us think more critically, instead of blindly assuming our money will get us something?
Once again... I'm so incredibly glad I didn't join this group buy, but thankful I can watch the fallout.
Show Image(http://i1027.photobucket.com/albums/y333/doomcrusader_photos/op-will-surely-deliver-lets-just-wait.jpg)
I take issue with the notion that a troll post can lead to legitimate discussion. Nobody was even talking about giving more money toward this buy. The guy just showed up after a week of inactivity and posted a troll post.
Sure. What color plates did your order? Wait nm shut up and leave.I take issue with the notion that a troll post can lead to legitimate discussion. Nobody was even talking about giving more money toward this buy. The guy just showed up after a week of inactivity and posted a troll post.
Yo seriously... can we talk about the group buy?
Sure. What color plates did your order? Wait nm shut up and leave.I take issue with the notion that a troll post can lead to legitimate discussion. Nobody was even talking about giving more money toward this buy. The guy just showed up after a week of inactivity and posted a troll post.
Yo seriously... can we talk about the group buy?
Sure. What color plates did your order? Wait nm shut up and leave.I take issue with the notion that a troll post can lead to legitimate discussion. Nobody was even talking about giving more money toward this buy. The guy just showed up after a week of inactivity and posted a troll post.
Yo seriously... can we talk about the group buy?
LOL this is exactly what I'm talking about. You're clearly more interested in a personal argument than the actual GB, which I've tried to talk about numerous times.
But seriously. Is there any way to recoup what people spent on this buy? Can't a paypal claim have some effect?
simply because someone doesn't join a group buy, it absolutely shouldn't prohibit them from having an opinion or a voice on an event within the community
PayPal dispute won't do anything. It is outside of the window that is clearly spelled out in their user agreement.
PayPal dispute won't do anything. It is outside of the window that is clearly spelled out in their user agreement.
In the USA Citizenship TOS, I believe they call it fraud.
PayPal dispute won't do anything. It is outside of the window that is clearly spelled out in their user agreement.
In the USA Citizenship TOS, I believe they call it fraud.
That has nothing to do with PayPal. With the timeline of this group buy, PayPal will do nothing.
PayPal dispute won't do anything. It is outside of the window that is clearly spelled out in their user agreement.
In the USA Citizenship TOS, I believe they call it fraud.
That has nothing to do with PayPal. With the timeline of this group buy, PayPal will do nothing.
I think his point was more that it's actually illegal and mkawa could be taken to court. Which is kinda overboard honestly. I , for one, just want some answers.
According to his profile, he was last active a month after his last post in here..he could have atleast taken the time to say he was still around..
I hate that what was supposed to be a nice homage to a deceased member of this community has turned into this **** show. If I ever get this board I will forever look at it in disgust(In before gladly giving up my money/any other kind of crap).
This is a disgrace.
Seeing as the board would be a direct reflection of this, I'm not sure how I could..I guess it's the autism..
Seeing as the board would be a direct reflection of this, I'm not sure how I could..I guess it's the autism..It's shallow
Seeing as the board would be a direct reflection of this, I'm not sure how I could..I guess it's the autism..It's shallow
Obviously mkawa and I haven't gotten along for some time but to his credit he did post another update here saying he had things bagged up and would soon begin shipping and would verify everyone's address the day the rollback happened, so that post was deleted along with many others but it doesn't mean much unless people have gotten things and just didn't post about it.
Seeing as the board would be a direct reflection of this, I'm not sure how I could..I guess it's the autism..It's shallow
Is you're money tied up in this GB?
Seeing as the board would be a direct reflection of this, I'm not sure how I could..I guess it's the autism..It's shallow
Is you're money tied up in this GB?
Nope.
Still the process of obtaining an item and remembering the dead should be separable. It's not my fault that it came off as shallow, I just made the observation.
get. out.
I'm just echoing the same narrative, he isn't a member of this gb, so he shouldn't be posting.
I'm just echoing the same narrative, he isn't a member of this gb, so he shouldn't be posting.
I'm just echoing the same narrative, he isn't a member of this gb, so he shouldn't be posting.
Cool, taking out your frustration on a member totally unrelated to the initial exchange. Mature.
I'm just echoing the same narrative, he isn't a member of this gb, so he shouldn't be posting.I apologize if I touched a nerve there. I frequently check in on this thread and your comment just seemed shallow, so I said that. There is no comment on the GB itself, I have no doubt that things have been frustrating, I would be frustrated too.
I guess it's the autism..
I'm sorry if you found something I said to be shallow. I have good days and bad days. Yes, I am autistic. Which is partly why i'm so involved in this gb. My disability only pays so much and it took me a long time to save this money.
Being a jerk on the Internet is not motivating anyone to send you anything no matter what you payed.I'm kind of motivated to send him a poo in a box.
I'm sorry if you found something I said to be shallow. I have good days and bad days. Yes, I am autistic. Which is partly why i'm so involved in this gb. My disability only pays so much and it took me a long time to save this money.That's makes more sense, I'd be frustrated too.
I'm in a tight spot right now so if anyone wants to take over my order I'll sell it at half price.
I'm in a tight spot right now so if anyone wants to take over my order I'll sell it at half price.
Any chance we could get an update Mkawa? I know you're going through a lot of ****, but just checking in to make sure you're alive :P
I have been in discussions with mkawa regarding the PCBs -- its moving -- slow, but its moving...
And it's over folks. No updates for something like a month, which isn't the first time, and this time it looks like we've just stopped giving a **** that mkawa grabbed our cash, ****ed us hard, and has fallen off the planet.Hmmm, then why am I organizing the purchase of new PCBs for this buy? Just because you don't see things happening, doesn't mean they aren't happening.
Is this still the thread connected to the Massdrop + Input club JD40 based 40% keyboard?No, Massdrop flaked out on that commitment shortly after it was first announced.
Or is that plan gone? I can't seem to find the drop on it, and I don't see Input club mentioned in the recent threads aside from that one post announcing their possible 40%.
Is this still the thread connected to the Massdrop + Input club JD40 based 40% keyboard?No, Massdrop flaked out on that commitment shortly after it was first announced.
Or is that plan gone? I can't seem to find the drop on it, and I don't see Input club mentioned in the recent threads aside from that one post announcing their possible 40%.
Is this still the thread connected to the Massdrop + Input club JD40 based 40% keyboard?
Or is that plan gone? I can't seem to find the drop on it, and I don't see Input club mentioned in the recent threads aside from that one post announcing their possible 40%.
Is this still the thread connected to the Massdrop + Input club JD40 based 40% keyboard?
Or is that plan gone? I can't seem to find the drop on it, and I don't see Input club mentioned in the recent threads aside from that one post announcing their possible 40%.
Yes, that plan is no longer. Instead, I have a new JD40 PCB by Wilba, the same designer who made the JD45 PCB. These new PCBs will be used to fulfill the SmallFry orders, as well as being offered on several online retailers.
Is this still the thread connected to the Massdrop + Input club JD40 based 40% keyboard?
Or is that plan gone? I can't seem to find the drop on it, and I don't see Input club mentioned in the recent threads aside from that one post announcing their possible 40%.
Yes, that plan is no longer. Instead, I have a new JD40 PCB by Wilba, the same designer who made the JD45 PCB. These new PCBs will be used to fulfill the SmallFry orders, as well as being offered on several online retailers.
are there any plans for this GB to get priority? i imagine we've been waiting the longest?
Short video of the PCBs being assembled today. These should ship to me next Monday, and I will get them to mkawa post haste.
https://twitter.com/WAssembly/status/719514211546697728?s=09
Short video of the PCBs being assembled today. These should ship to me next Monday, and I will get them to mkawa post haste.
https://twitter.com/WAssembly/status/719514211546697728?s=09
Any idea what mkawa's timeline looks like once these get to him?
Good to see the PCB progressing. But how about the plates?
Really hope mkawa coild update us a bit.
Sent from my SM-T810 using Tapatalk
Good to see the PCB progressing. But how about the plates?
Really hope mkawa coild update us a bit.
Sent from my SM-T810 using Tapatalk
Pretty sure plates have been done for a while.
I had an email exchange with mkawa and was told that the plates are all accounted for and that he reached out to jdcarpe to give him updated shipping information for the PCBs. I guess jd can confirm once they are in transit.
I had an email exchange with mkawa and was told that the plates are all accounted for and that he reached out to jdcarpe to give him updated shipping information for the PCBs. I guess jd can confirm once they are in transit.
I have the PCBs in hand, huzzah! I will get them shipped to mkawa this week. :)
I had an email exchange with mkawa and was told that the plates are all accounted for and that he reached out to jdcarpe to give him updated shipping information for the PCBs. I guess jd can confirm once they are in transit.
I have the PCBs in hand, huzzah! I will get them shipped to mkawa this week. :)
http://techkeys.us/products/jd40You should post in techkeys subforum. :thumb:
SO where do we read up on this pcb? Is the SMD work done already? I can't see since the picture is too small.
What about LED support?
edit: actually you can see quite a lot in the picture.
mkawa hasn't been on in weeks, and JD for a while as well. Anyone know how to reach them IRL? This is getting a little ridiculous.Mkawa is the only person responsible for this group buy, jdcarpe simply forwarded on some PCBs to him.
Yah, I'm alive and have all the individual kit parts now. I'm extremely low on time and the original plan was to have a packing party with myself, photoelectric and dorkvader but it hasn't come together.
I've been working weekends for basically the last two years, but... well, **** that. I'm starting to block out time for geekhack (i have continually been wholesaling krytox this entire time and servicing the soldering end of the store in like the hour of time I can carve out each week)
Anyway, that's the current state of things. I have like 50lb bricks of gaskets, PCBs and titanium plates that need tons of manual labor to pack up and then a ton of email correspondence to make sure everyone gets stuff to their current address or if they sold their kit off etc etc.
I am starting to carve out more and more time for getting things out the door of my apartment including this. Unfortunately I seem to have become sprit with the exception of being fluent in English.hence, if you can help people temper their expectations to sprit timeframes,i can push this stuff out of my life properly with people getting something that is basically what they wants.
Blerg,
Mkawa
I sent an email through geekhackers.com asking for any information regarding the group buy noting that mkawa hasnt been active in a month and this is what I got as a response.QuoteYah, I'm alive and have all the individual kit parts now. I'm extremely low on time and the original plan was to have a packing party with myself, photoelectric and dorkvader but it hasn't come together.
I've been working weekends for basically the last two years, but... well, **** that. I'm starting to block out time for geekhack (i have continually been wholesaling krytox this entire time and servicing the soldering end of the store in like the hour of time I can carve out each week)
Anyway, that's the current state of things. I have like 50lb bricks of gaskets, PCBs and titanium plates that need tons of manual labor to pack up and then a ton of email correspondence to make sure everyone gets stuff to their current address or if they sold their kit off etc etc.
I am starting to carve out more and more time for getting things out the door of my apartment including this. Unfortunately I seem to have become sprit with the exception of being fluent in English.hence, if you can help people temper their expectations to sprit timeframes,i can push this stuff out of my life properly with people getting something that is basically what they wants.
Blerg,
Mkawa
hey duder,
can you ask around the thread and see if there are any well respected, older geekhackers who are willing to and have time to be hubs for distribution? for example, if i can do 10 shipments, one to CA, one to WA, one to IL, one to NY, etc. etc. with bulk kit components, then each hub leader (hopefully during some kind of hub party with pizza -- happy to pay for pizza) can bundle, confirm ship and ship.
as an example of how little time i have, i'm working today (right now, because sigh), and the only thing i've managed to do with the gigantic 2k$ box/brick full of PCBs was finally fit into a bookshelf so i don't keep tripping over it.
Another Email from mkawaQuotehey duder,
can you ask around the thread and see if there are any well respected, older geekhackers who are willing to and have time to be hubs for distribution? for example, if i can do 10 shipments, one to CA, one to WA, one to IL, one to NY, etc. etc. with bulk kit components, then each hub leader (hopefully during some kind of hub party with pizza -- happy to pay for pizza) can bundle, confirm ship and ship.
as an example of how little time i have, i'm working today (right now, because sigh), and the only thing i've managed to do with the gigantic 2k$ box/brick full of PCBs was finally fit into a bookshelf so i don't keep tripping over it.
I could be a "hub" for Florida, but I don't think I have enough reputation on GeekHack for that to be possible. Anyone else interested?
Geekhack group buy leader with notoriously long lead times. Springs from him take several months to arrive. He is nonetheless trusted, hence why mkawa wants the same treatment.
Geekhack group buy leader with notoriously long lead times. Springs from him take several months to arrive. He is nonetheless trusted, hence why mkawa wants the same treatment.
...how long have I been gone that sprit is now a good GB leader.. :eek:
EDIT:
more accurately...how long have you guys gotten used to waiting?
Geekhack group buy leader with notoriously long lead times. Springs from him take several months to arrive. He is nonetheless trusted, hence why mkawa wants the same treatment.
...how long have I been gone that sprit is now a good GB leader.. :eek:
EDIT:
more accurately...how long have you guys gotten used to waiting?
How big is the buy (how many people participated)? Is the kit only the PCB, gasket, screws, and plates? Depending on the size and what's present, I can probably take on the shipping.
How big is the buy (how many people participated)? Is the kit only the PCB, gasket, screws, and plates? Depending on the size and what's present, I can probably take on the shipping.
If I remember it was like 100? people or so, but sending mkawa an email might be the best bet. EDIT: According to the sale page on geek hackers.org it was 74 orders.
How big is the buy (how many people participated)? Is the kit only the PCB, gasket, screws, and plates? Depending on the size and what's present, I can probably take on the shipping.
If I remember it was like 100? people or so, but sending mkawa an email might be the best bet. EDIT: According to the sale page on geek hackers.org it was 74 orders.
I should be able to handle it if it's 74 and just PCB, plates, gasket, and screws.
If there's a printout that I can toss the plates on to confirm layout, it won't be a problem to ID the plates and get them sorted appropriately.
he backed out.
Quotehe backed out.
Another Email from mkawa
Quotehe backed out.
Another Email from mkawa
?? Elaborate.
Quotehe backed out.
Another Email from mkawa
?? Elaborate.
If you do take it on, I am down to help out.Quotehe backed out.
Another Email from mkawa
?? Elaborate.
I delayed response because I've been swamped at work and trying to figure out how to respond to the e-mail since it seems like there's more to it than stated. I have emailed him about it again though since I've finally had a little time to decompress from some very long and stressful work weeks. In the e-mail it sounded like there was no one unified source for information of who gets what (there's "dumps of spreadsheets" from shopify and Google docs) and that not everyone would get everything they wanted. I don't know if that latter is the design, colors, parts, or what.
If it's going to be confirming orders, picking parts, shipping, and deflecting criticism back to the GB runner, I can do that and that's what I emailed him. If it's new parts need to be made or just shipping what's there (even if it doesn't match their order) and telling people to deal with it, I'm passing.
Guys mkawa hasn't been active on the site since June 9th... it's almost October. Real life probably got in the way, he realized he can't ship anything because of budget and/or time, and is just trying to forget the group buy and community exists. That's what I think anyway.mkawa is a little more trustable than you think. He just needs some help. He is swamped doing brainy things out East
Guys mkawa hasn't been active on the site since June 9th... it's almost October. Real life probably got in the way, he realized he can't ship anything because of budget and/or time, and is just trying to forget the group buy and community exists. That's what I think anyway.mkawa is a little more trustable than you think. He just needs some help. He is swamped doing brainy things out East
paging mkawa.......
Ok, finally heard back from mkawa from my last email. I should, hopefully be getting everything sent to me. It's going to suck and will likely take longer than I want to deal with, but this should finally be getting some movement once I get the stuff from him.
Unfortunately, there's no date for the handoff yet.
Ok, finally heard back from mkawa from my last email. I should, hopefully be getting everything sent to me. It's going to suck and will likely take longer than I want to deal with, but this should finally be getting some movement once I get the stuff from him.
Unfortunately, there's no date for the handoff yet.
Ok, finally heard back from mkawa from my last email. I should, hopefully be getting everything sent to me. It's going to suck and will likely take longer than I want to deal with, but this should finally be getting some movement once I get the stuff from him.
Unfortunately, there's no date for the handoff yet.
Thank you for this. I know what all is involved in this sort of thing, and it's not at all easy. You will be overwhelmed, but take it one step and a time and we'll get there. :-*
I'm also one of the original partisipants (I bought it over the old [CTRL]ALT store) and I think chronos is right.I think you're confused this group buy wasn't through [CTRL]ALT
Getting over with this thing would be the best option for everyone. Send whats done and I'll be more than happy to pay for shipping (even if it's just the plate or something).
What now would be importent is to give everyone some clear infos (how many parts are there, who has them, is there still money left for shipping, and so on).
After that we could all let it rest in peace.
Ok that's strage. I bought the JD-40 kit over[CTRL]ALT in january 2015. when nothing happened I got in contact with them and they told me that there were some personal problems with the guy that builds them but that someone had orderd replacement parts to help get the keyboards out. This exchange was nearly a year ago, so everything lined up with the events of the groupbuy here so I thought that CTRL[ALT] was just an other option to participate.
Ok that's strage. I bought the JD-40 kit over[CTRL]ALT in january 2015. when nothing happened I got in contact with them and they told me that there were some personal problems with the guy that builds them but that someone had orderd replacement parts to help get the keyboards out. This exchange was nearly a year ago, so everything lined up with the events of the groupbuy here so I thought that CTRL[ALT] was just an other option to participate.
y0 - I got nothing. No messages in my inbox since my posts a few months ago and just the replies you see.
I've acclimated to the geologic timescales of this project and totally understand, but like I said to everyone, I'm ready to get in and help with logistics.
There is something tangible somewhere, probably in Ming Kawa's house (please if anyone can, confirm that this is mkawa's full name) that needs to be spread out to whoever bought in on this group buy.
Getting there isn't as hard as curing cancer but I get that there is a human involved here who has a lot of stuff on their plate.
I'm not a social networking person but if someone can confirm that Ming Kawa (or whatever they are named) is still alive, and knows what academic institution they are affiliated with please feel free to forward that information along. I see that there is a person at risk in this situation and just want to help. If you know social media accounts associated with this person I'd be happy to take a look and make sure they're still ok, just send those too.
He just got up and left and through the no witch hunting role or shaming he's able to get away with it. Running a group buy for over 1 year is already questionable yet so many people get away with it, after three years one really needs to question more.
If there are any still available for purchase, I'm interested. Glad to see this back on its feet.
If there are any still available for purchase, I'm interested. Glad to see this back on its feet.
Hey guys,
I talked to mkawa :) He, as it turns out, still lives in my area. I'm going to see about helping with shipping domestic orders. He said that Zeal and TechKeys should also be helping with international orders.
Hopefully this will get moving to completion soon. I believe shipping cost will need to be covered better. Will know more details soon.
Awesome, if this goes through would it be Ok to contact you about updating our shipping address?
Awesome, if this goes through would it be Ok to contact you about updating our shipping address?
I'm sure a fairly large portion of the participants have had address changes.
Hello everyone,
I had the chance to look at all the GB parts yesterday. Just about everything is ready to be sorted and packaged for shipping, though we're still working out the method of connecting the top and bottom plates together (can't bolt-through, because there's a thick sorbothane gasket between the titanium plates, and its purpose is to dampen the typing impact--having solid through bolts would defeat that purpose). The colored titanium plates are actually coated with Cerakote on the outside.
Photos of parts (click MORE for a lot of them):MoreShow Image(http://i.imgur.com/UGS7CgH.jpg)Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/WkozWBr.jpg)Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/9GOU0VE.jpg)Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/Phj3tW0.jpg)Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/7bhjtEd.jpg)Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/rKXu8mY.jpg)Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/FozRvFD.jpg)Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/BZVM6sF.jpg)
Nice, thanks for the pictures, Photoelectric!
Though I was under the impression that as long as the sorbothane is applying a bit of pressure onto the two plates (when bolted), there would still be a dampening effect? Sure a bit of vibration would transfer through the bolts and into the bottom plate, but wouldn't the bottom half of the sorbothane absorb that vibration too?
Hello everyone,
I had the chance to look at all the GB parts yesterday. Just about everything is ready to be sorted and packaged for shipping, though we're still working out the method of connecting the top and bottom plates together (can't bolt-through, because there's a thick sorbothane gasket between the titanium plates, and its purpose is to dampen the typing impact--having solid through bolts would defeat that purpose). The colored titanium plates are actually coated with Cerakote on the outside.
Photos of parts (click MORE for a lot of them):MoreShow Image(http://i.imgur.com/UGS7CgH.jpg)Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/WkozWBr.jpg)Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/9GOU0VE.jpg)Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/Phj3tW0.jpg)Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/7bhjtEd.jpg)Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/rKXu8mY.jpg)Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/FozRvFD.jpg)Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/BZVM6sF.jpg)
iirc he was talking about using those orings on the outside of the case to pull the top and bottom plate together around the gasket.
Nice, thanks for the pictures, Photoelectric!
Though I was under the impression that as long as the sorbothane is applying a bit of pressure onto the two plates (when bolted), there would still be a dampening effect? Sure a bit of vibration would transfer through the bolts and into the bottom plate, but wouldn't the bottom half of the sorbothane absorb that vibration too?
i have one of these cases already with the above mentioned gasket , and personally i find it considerably better when using hard through bolts versus a semi floating system, which is interesting, but incredibly annoying to actually live with for myself, some people im sure would love it, but it just has way to much give in it for me
i do like the gasket, but id highly recommend it with full through bolts
Those are old o-rings. We're going with smaller diameter tighter kind that won't stretch this much.
Good day, reading over the post, I'm interested. Once the paid orders are shipped, if you have any remaining green or light blue kits, I'd like one. Well, I'm looking forward to the extras news & hope everyone enjoys their JD40s when they receive them!
Alright, thanksGood day, reading over the post, I'm interested. Once the paid orders are shipped, if you have any remaining green or light blue kits, I'd like one. Well, I'm looking forward to the extras news & hope everyone enjoys their JD40s when they receive them!
Unfortunately there are only a very small number of those green and blue parts, and they are for those who've entered the group buy already.
. . .
I have long bolts on the way to test out the bolt-through scenario.
So when this GB started I was going to have thechemist build my board. But he hasn't been online in like 2 years. Who should I pm about changing my address, cause if he's not building it, no need to ship it to him.
Yeah, we're not going to ship to him. There were only a few kits that had assembly requested, and I'm not sure if any parts had been sent to thechemist or not. Current plan is to ship directly to customers. If there's a strong preference for building before shipping, I can put some kits together. We'll be e-mailing for current address confirmation to the e-mails indicated during ordering.
Yeah, we're not going to ship to him. There were only a few kits that had assembly requested, and I'm not sure if any parts had been sent to thechemist or not. Current plan is to ship directly to customers. If there's a strong preference for building before shipping, I can put some kits together. We'll be e-mailing for current address confirmation to the e-mails indicated during ordering.
I would definitely be interested in getting it built. I have horribly unsteady hands, and because of that have ****ed up everything I have tried to solder on my own.
No problem! Also looks like you're local? Boston area. I need to look into what was arranged with TheChemist--whether you were to send switches to him or if he already has them, etc.Yeah, go to Northeastern University. Though I'm back home in NY for the summer. I'll check through my messages and see if I can figure it out. Was so long ago that I completely forget.
Where should I send my fan mail and tasteful nudes?Such tempting offers. :p
Large 3M bumpon feet are here, still waiting for the small ones to arrive (for the front of the case):OH MAN THE HYPE IS REAL! :eek: :eek:Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/tCMWIPt.jpg)
(Featuring a Bronze case top)
Does anyone have a TaoBao connection or similar?
I'm looking at good metric nut options in black color. At the moment, I'm mostly settled with self-locking black hex huts with nylon insert, but those are kind of a pain to screw on if you don't have a spanner or some tool to carefully screw those onto a bolt.
These are perfect, but only in a lot of 5000 pieces and from Alibaba... Maybe there's similar on TaoBao?
https://www.alibaba.com/product-detail/China-manufacturer-best-price-black-head_60150868854.html?spm=a2700.7724838.0.0.CYCMJRShow Image(https://sc01.alicdn.com/kf/HTB1nwiHKpXXXXbVXVXXq6xXFXXXX/China-manufacturer-best-price-black-head-knurled.jpg)Show Image(https://sc02.alicdn.com/kf/HTB1xI19KpXXXXbuXXXXq6xXFXXXd/China-manufacturer-best-price-black-head-knurled.jpg)
(Need size M2, black, knurled thumb nuts, about 420 pieces for the group buy)
I've contacted the Alibaba vendor in the meantime.
Those are pretty cool but perhaps too large, and also quite expensive! I mean people can order whatever they want for themselves later, including fancy anodized aluminum washers in rainbow colors, but I'm looking to get about 420 nuts to ship with the kits, and there's no group buy money to cover it. (Those bumpons were paid for with my own bank account).
Those are pretty cool but perhaps too large, and also quite expensive! I mean people can order whatever they want for themselves later, including fancy anodized aluminum washers in rainbow colors, but I'm looking to get about 420 nuts to ship with the kits, and there's no group buy money to cover it. (Those bumpons were paid for with my own bank account).
What about these?
http://store.rc4wd.com/Nylock-Nuts-M2-Black_p_3062.html https://www.amazon.com/Knurled-Flat-Thumb-Thin-Black/dp/B01N34KKDB
How about these ones?
https://m.intl.taobao.com/detail/detail.html?spm=a1z5f.7632060.0.0&id=532791645925
Sent from my SM-T810 using Tapatalk
I couldnt find the specific one you showed in Taobao.How about these ones?
https://m.intl.taobao.com/detail/detail.html?spm=a1z5f.7632060.0.0&id=532791645925
Sent from my SM-T810 using Tapatalk
That link is wrong, I think.
I couldnt find the specific one you showed in Taobao.How about these ones?
https://m.intl.taobao.com/detail/detail.html?spm=a1z5f.7632060.0.0&id=532791645925
Sent from my SM-T810 using Tapatalk
That link is wrong, I think.
Sent from my SM-T810 using Tapatalk
Bad news: I've discovered that the plate cut-outs don't support Costar stabilizers. The correct stabilizers to use with these top plates are Cherry type in 6.25x length, either plate- or PCB-mounted. Unfortunately group buy participants will have to source those on their own, along with switches and LEDs. Use only genuine Cherry stabilizers in 6.25 length. We're looking into source options now.
...snip...
I have photos of 2 kits I've finished for other people so far here (using the wrong Costar stabilizer inserts, which don't really fit properly :( They are pending to be swapped to plate-mounted Cherry stabilizers.)
https://www.flickr.com/photos/photoelectric_effect/albums/72157680672040444
Haven't had any email about this yet, but theres a member who is interested in buying my order. Will transfer of ownership be possible?
Got the Canadian packages from Photoelectric today. I should be able to get out all the Canadian orders by this afternoon, before cutoff. Expect a tracking number in your inbox shortly!
Edit: Done, all shipped.
Hi everyone,Hi, I could pay my own shipping. Please contact me via email for details. Thank you so much for all these efforts.
I've decided that I'll be doing international shipping as well (other than for the Canadian orders, which have already been taken care of). I hoped that TechKeys would have more resources for international shipping, but it appears to not be the case.
If anyone would be so kind as to donate some funds to help with shipping costs, it would be most welcome.
Hi everyone,
I've decided that I'll be doing international shipping as well (other than for the Canadian orders, which have already been taken care of). I hoped that TechKeys would have more resources for international shipping, but it appears to not be the case.
If anyone would be so kind as to donate some funds to help with shipping costs, it would be most welcome.
One modification I've already made, and I'll post pics later, is I drilled a hole through the bottom plate where the Reset button is. I reprogram my keyboards all the time (it's almost more of a hobby than the keyboards themselves these days) so easy access to the reset button is critical for me.
One modification I've already made, and I'll post pics later, is I drilled a hole through the bottom plate where the Reset button is. I reprogram my keyboards all the time (it's almost more of a hobby than the keyboards themselves these days) so easy access to the reset button is critical for me.
Thanks for the update! Great idea about the hole for the bootloader button. Was it difficult to drill through the titanium or messy? Granted, your kit was clear-coated titanium, so perhaps it wouldn't be as invasive as with colored plates.
Do we need pcb or plate mounted switches? It's been so long I don't even remember.
I understand where to solder the LEDs on the board but not sure where they go in relation to the switch/place
Mine arrived today, totally forgot about this until I heard from Photoelectric.
I have no switches, and am actually packing up to move, so will be a bit before I build this little guy out. Happy everything worked out, thanks a lot to all who made it happen!
Here it is!Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/zyLcmBw.jpg)Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/cbmBsxA.jpg)
And here it is without caps. MX clears, stickered and lubed by TheChemist waaaaay back in the day:Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/d8MOnpn.jpg)
Yesterday I mentioned one modification, the addition of a thru hole for accessing the reset button:Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/vLlnuxA.jpg)
I also used a Dremel to remove the little workholding nubs on each plate:Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/yjembvc.jpg)
I was able to do this because my plates weren't painted, YMMV.
To everyone who had a part in this buy--those who conceived it, promoted it, bought into it, ran with it, took it over, picked up the pieces, and saw it through to the end--all of you have my sincere thanks.
Could somone post a pic of how far down the front plate sit on the stabilizers? I had to file mine down but I'm not sure ive done enough as the switches barely seem to reac the board(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170905/f0fa3aecc5bbe8a65bf01959b76b9593.jpg)
Could somone post a pic of how far down the front plate sit on the stabilizers? I had to file mine down but I'm not sure ive done enough as the switches barely seem to reac the board
Very grateful I was able to get one of these after all but the stabilizer issues is killing me. I've tried for the last few nights to get these in and it isn't happening.
Very grateful I was able to get one of these after all but the stabilizer issues is killing me. I've tried for the last few nights to get these in and it isn't happening.
Have you filed the stabilizer stems that go into the plates?
Got the last keycaps today. Here is my finished board, thoughts?Show Image(https://i.imgur.com/AHoP8Ux.jpg)Show Image(https://i.imgur.com/XomokCc.jpg)
Super industrial. I hope you're using strong springs in those switches! Zinc caps are heavy.
Got the last keycaps today. Here is my finished board, thoughts?Show Image(https://i.imgur.com/AHoP8Ux.jpg)Show Image(https://i.imgur.com/XomokCc.jpg)
Definitely unique. Do the caps feel odd to type on?
Ok, we're at 92% of orders fulfilled at this point. I have 6 orders left to ship, but still can't get in touch with 5 out of 6 people (2 are completely MIA in Australia--even tried texting).
I have extra JD40 II PCBs and extra Sorbothane gaskets if anyone is interested.
Seeing this project fulfilled is giving me all the feels. Way to go, Photoelectric!
:eek: ;D :thumb:
Ok, we're at 92% of orders fulfilled at this point. I have 6 orders left to ship, but still can't get in touch with 5 out of 6 people (2 are completely MIA in Australia--even tried texting).
I have extra JD40 II PCBs and extra Sorbothane gaskets if anyone is interested.
If you still haven't been able to find those MIA Australians, I can probably find them in the AUMK facebook group or the Auskeys discord, if they're still active.
Holy $*!t, JD, you're alive! Welcome back :)
The problem isn't the stabilizer housing, but rather that the bar hits the plate. The notches in the plate are on the wrong side of the holes for the way the stabilizer fits into the PCB. I ended up filing away part of the plate so my space bar wouldn't be permanently stuck in the down position.The black stabilizer housings won't fit in my plate notches, that I'm sure of. The wire might be a problem also but I haven't gotten that far.Show Image(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/v9U-Vb5uG4HIwDvYFs4xXAdUs2RRaiPIojh0mqRhoSdoYJFZwyP_17nHm5aNCIqTD2WG_TpH8BB4YqjSsHUoCQrU_KDkUMmJ-JwrCDOIvPV5DQq9aNCBQuB8DeFEyc5PNrhFhpwFv8enQdD7b65kqXxOeh4hQCI-Qux4gzo-yE_c-FUeT8W7A_D6zXqb4F0T04-dmHoVahOhK8mpbpY1iy-sUbJm9NXEXZNsIJzex2VF_kaQmdwq4zy8hQ6eSHxuGfOwpu7ufKbpOt9DiCznPmhucdDD0F_lNeBUgpGuHfGkRJ2bb5C3E5ZS7CIwJjpxa0ZHh9BDwd1C8zyHXdSJGODYBjpyeCHMTN4B823d6PiJHW_ZFr96g4KVL5AwCErRHyvv7UOnIGywt0tcPSltbZUGmVsHIkzSHRLjEsYRRjjoSfnBQCjgUUYC0C_6Y28dKCYcrOqHx3iYZig_-AhcTYI2yrP9o1k2Uh5ru0uThsEjcwco_l9UNoPxY4kRJPF8IDPsWl8UujZ7TX31tFxRFMUUj-8TYAxOOsMa7FW7_o4ytxeAX3M6KA0PxcqREfvr9qYMnqC08etEkhT-xUkIRwYACOfeRG9s=w1784-h1338-no)Show Image(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/Yeu7D52-x-N7fHiveiTVuqrESE0zS_FXt_Rsh3Ma_tspMHvTG2wJKhehqycPmr3mQibshSRm5XUEjo69hS1i0LPkkueYd6tVymrhhGHoE_Jd3iVexaZReRBu_xpW_vXfJqGfXm7jzgcbMQ4Db4O04flKZl4I3UGj_NZ8d5Esayj7whYxpkLJ_PJPxYlih6s3cTdVNEJkQxMBWQ4lcD1Bf2hbziY46Wq1sKnzB4hQJthywZIys7DsuordJB2gXDUUSFERjXJ7WT-AQfbZBuKp9dMh7WJnwnBmZZHD4OcsDGD88qkaIaaID9n1GF5IJrtkDvv1oDh5ihCA_kL_CCLtslUp2MHdc2S3CGuvDDBOSACQGyXiysbCsiLY5gQJFRHcQxZ4x-Y3cDLx4kcmcbtLSnOaPPR6uoLQ1gyaifyPa00hsVpoo9K7JU1L4-tMOwMb6mOSgodeykjXLyKFAsI8278jyCok91Karg0-rjxSPub-k7JNiuC4VRa63W_hUH_6PcxcxjAr9NjcXK-kSuovxO28fBc3oB11Xoui-por7GutZMUW5eir2bFdOrcKixsHyhQq8dCoT9JpLhhbXMx7BmhGbupKJwkP=w1784-h1338-no)Show Image(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/O7iJq4weSMiGgxmF3wTFsCEQyj3kbaacu8fT8MJ0DIbzm3ZXnOnbCZ6pLxGyV2uDPUig3E9BXgV-Q2YNopnSR1YnPGGhFU0Ty4mk-L7zyYygERD7HHoldfbFAQAlU5cCHfD2l7G8fJ1hiCvlWXsSA3SWLurODkHNsWO6Ia_TivHOtyHlGmfoqNdzbSs5qW5BXEON5Cn5ANM_7BBUcyBqpmYnt-5NJNBob_Ap91rXhMmso2mAKsGFqVo8pCqFAVqObS5mzhdR10HfHqfbR2mu8qvg44ronIpFqUbVU-t_F8etCig8Winr8676SUzz51hdnSTapI7GUWxyLrR7DJmvlvIsI-5KxOW0YYwXbbgUymYKtY4xtOvXHKqLQZ96doTsMDBhuLAPCejN2E3jN8l_kOZndKlQrQdkVTK5uyN7vVqOxRU12Cm9dRTm_Zi2BHxOpbxBJoyvOfrXge8bpQs3Uf_4YOkJkjOT8MxitMiXav6dZcU19-KH-FiHdZFqIyZXEj_L0jKY6JoQw20vfO6NzXKXyacg47dlOTGgr8b3V7853GnIWE1g8Hmc-LxMsO7uMe-S1DrjSCtxa3_gKAH0Bf5x3bzaznlL=w1784-h1338-no)
The black stabilizer housings won't fit in my plate notches, that I'm sure of. The wire might be a problem also but I haven't gotten that far.
Hmm, I've not had the bar hitting the plate problem so far when assembling these kits for others. Make sure the spacebar stabilizer orientation is such that the wire is over the switch (north), not closer to you (south). Usually if the stabilizer bar hits a plate, it means it was inserted in incorrect orientation.
Hmm, I've not had the bar hitting the plate problem so far when assembling these kits for others. Make sure the spacebar stabilizer orientation is such that the wire is over the switch (north), not closer to you (south). Usually if the stabilizer bar hits a plate, it means it was inserted in incorrect orientation.
Were you able to see the images I included in my post? Don't I have it installed the way you're describing?