Razer Orbweaver (Mechanical Gaming Keypad)

[CPTBadAss]

I have a little problem with my orbweaber the key from 6 to 10 are die!!! any ideas??? (leds still work)

Solder joints probably need to be reflowed. And before you ask, no, I don't think there's a way to fix it without solder/desoldering.

[sick_nick]

Greetings orbweaver owners and fans. I'd like to announce that from today (well actually from yesterday) I also am part of the Orbeweaver club 

I have tested it quite a bit yesterday and today...and here are some of my first impressions:

 - This thing, for what it offers, is pretty darn expensive. There I said it 
 - Quality build is pretty OK, although the thumb piece could have been a bit more sturdier/solid built
 - Like many have said before, Cherry MX Blue on this device is just not a good idea. What was Razer thinking?
 - I find the thumb-stick pretty difficult to use properly...but that might just be me, since I've always been a retard at controlling almost any type of analog stumb-stick controller.
 - Contrary to many, I actually like the matte/rubberized coating on the keycaps


That said, I am definitely modding this little fella to fully appease my gaming needs...I was thinking Cherry MX Red for the arrow keys and Brown ones for some of the keys around the arrow ones. Therefore I would have some questions:

1) Do you guys know any European reseller that has cherry MX key switches? The only reseller I have found so far is US based only; talking about mechanicalkeyboards.com  I'm asking because I'd like to save some money on shipping costs 

2) Just to be 100% sure, I will be needing the PCB mount keyswitch type for this one right?

3) I did figure from the previous comments that LEDs must be 3mm ones, but what voltage range would they have to be???...on my local ebay and electronics e-stores I have a very vast choice of 3mm LEDs...don't know which ones to choose.   

Any advice or detail I should pay attention to when modding this? Thanks

Sick_Nick
 

[Melvang]

While I don't remember what the voltages were for low and medium brightness settings (they do change with this setting) on high it was in the 3.1 to 3.2 range.

For modding, I wouldn't worry about getting PCB mount.  Just desolder the LED's open the switches, swap out springs and stems as appropriate, and reassemble.  If you want to be able to swap out switch guts in the future without removing the LED's you have a couple options.

Install sip sockets for the LED's, though not sure of any European dealers that have them, or you can modify the switch tops.

Here is a video regarding the modification of the switch tops.  While he uses a dremel, I think I would use a good pair of flush cutters or a razor knife.  It doesn't have to be pretty just functional and the dremel I feel would take longer and make more of a mess.

[sick_nick]

While I don't remember what the voltages were for low and medium brightness settings (they do change with this setting) on high it was in the 3.1 to 3.2 range.

For modding, I wouldn't worry about getting PCB mount.  Just desolder the LED's open the switches, swap out springs and stems as appropriate, and reassemble.  If you want to be able to swap out switch guts in the future without removing the LED's you have a couple options.

Install sip sockets for the LED's, though not sure of any European dealers that have them, or you can modify the switch tops.

Here is a video regarding the modification of the switch tops.  While he uses a dremel, I think I would use a good pair of flush cutters or a razor knife.  It doesn't have to be pretty just functional and the dremel I feel would take longer and make more of a mess.

Wait, so you're telling me the identity of a Cherry MX keyswitch is solely made out of it's colored stem and spring underneath it? 

Well if that's true, it should cut my work by at least half as I won't be needing to desolder and completely pull out the keyswitch from the PCB to replace it with a new one...I'm already in love with these Cherry MX switches. 

About the LEDs indeed it seems that for 3mm (or 5mm) Blue and Green LED your typical voltage is at 3.2V (Max 3.4)...but for Red, Orange and Yellow those figures drop to 1.8 (Max 2.3). So what would happen if I would to install some red and orange LEDs in there and then crank the brightens to max in settings...will that burn my red and orange LEDs? 

   

[CPTBadAss]

Wait, so you're telling me the identity of a Cherry MX keyswitch is solely made out of it's colored stem and spring underneath it? 

Well if that's true, it should cut my work by at least half as I won't be needing to desolder and completely pull out the keyswitch from the PCB to replace it with a new one...I'm already in love with these Cherry MX switches. 

Yes, MX switches only differ in terms of stems and springs. The housings are the same. However, with how the Orbweaver is, you will need to desolder. There is a weird plate in the way. Also, you may need to shave down any normal caps you buy.

For some reference, here's my build log for my Orbweaver mod.

About the LEDs indeed it seems that for 3mm (or 5mm) Blue and Green LED your typical voltage is at 3.2V (Max 3.4)...but for Red, Orange and Yellow those figures drop to 1.8 (Max 2.3). So what would happen if I would to install some red and orange LEDs in there and then crank the brightens to max in settings...will that burn my red and orange LEDs? 

Can you adjust the brightness? I didn't see any settings in the Orbweaver software. I'm not so sure about the LEDs though.

[Melvang]

Wait, so you're telling me the identity of a Cherry MX keyswitch is solely made out of it's colored stem and spring underneath it? 

Well if that's true, it should cut my work by at least half as I won't be needing to desolder and completely pull out the keyswitch from the PCB to replace it with a new one...I'm already in love with these Cherry MX switches. 

Yes, MX switches only differ in terms of stems and springs. The housings are the same. However, with how the Orbweaver is, you will need to desolder. There is a weird plate in the way. Also, you may need to shave down any normal caps you buy.

For some reference, here's my build log for my Orbweaver mod.

About the LEDs indeed it seems that for 3mm (or 5mm) Blue and Green LED your typical voltage is at 3.2V (Max 3.4)...but for Red, Orange and Yellow those figures drop to 1.8 (Max 2.3). So what would happen if I would to install some red and orange LEDs in there and then crank the brightens to max in settings...will that burn my red and orange LEDs? 

Can you adjust the brightness? I didn't see any settings in the Orbweaver software. I'm not so sure about the LEDs though.

If I remember right the plate thing doesn't clip to the switches at all.  It can be removed by itself with some careful elbow grease without desoldering the switches.  I will do some digging for my orbweaver thread.  In there I do list the voltages across the LED's at medium and low brightness software settings.  They adjust the voltage i believe.  I very well could be wrong with these numbers but around 2.5 at medium and 1.8 at low.  So with other voltage ranges for leds could be used but you would want to lower the brightness before unplugging to do the mod so you don't have to worry about the LED's getting to much voltage until you can get dug into the settings.