Looks good! Can I buy more than one case/plate? Or would that require a separate pcb order as well?
Do you have any samples/examples of what black frost acrylic looks like? Does it look like a solid matte black or is it somewhat translucent (similar to clear frost acrylic)?
Do you have any samples/examples of what black frost acrylic looks like? Does it look like a solid matte black or is it somewhat translucent (similar to clear frost acrylic)?
It's the opaque matte black in the photos in the OPShow Image(https://i.imgur.com/9qQDtCH.jpg)
Will you release plate files? I'm intersted in this, but I'd like to replace the plate with a brass plate. Thanks in advance!Yeah, just ping me after the GB is closed and I'll send you a link.
Will you release plate files? I'm intersted in this, but I'd like to replace the plate with a brass plate. Thanks in advance!Yeah, just ping me after the GB is closed and I'll send you a link.
Quick note, if you want to do a 1.5mm plate and would like the foam, order 2x foam so it will fill the larger gap as the original design is using a 3mm plate.
Will this kit come with the screws?
Yes, the case includes the necessary hardware. Stainless steel screws and brass standoffs.
Do you have any photos of the POM or the black clear cases? Just curious.
Could you upload a picture of the white acrylic perhaps ?
Really looking forward to buying a white acrylic case + white POM plate ~
Ended up joining for clear and frosted clear. Excited! Black frosted sold out while it was in my cart, so people might want to get on this if they're interested.
Do you think you'll have it on QMK configurator by the time it's shipped? Or after?
I've had issues compiling on QMK (noob) so I definitely prefer to use the configurator.
Do you think you'll have it on QMK configurator by the time it's shipped? Or after?
I've had issues compiling on QMK (noob) so I definitely prefer to use the configurator.
I'll pre load the boards with a standard layout so it'll be usable immediately, and definitely provide a .hex, and I'll try to get it into the configurator before it ships, it seems like they're processing PRs faster now so hopefully it'll be ready.
Does it come with screws?
Will this kit come with the screws?
Yes, the case includes the necessary hardware. Stainless steel screws and brass standoffs.
I'm in for one, looking forward to this as well!
Just to be sure, does anyone know if the standard Arisu layout supports regular backspace?
In for a frosted kit, looks great! It doesn't look like it from the PCB pics, but is there any way of adding an underglow to this?
In for a frosted kit, looks great! It doesn't look like it from the PCB pics, but is there any way of adding an underglow to this?
From the IC thread
>could you add led support?
It has underglow support via an RGB strip header, but I do not plan on adding per-key at this time
Is there not a matte black plate option? Also in acrylic vs pom plate, would there be a noticeable increase in flex going to pom?
Is there not a matte black plate option? Also in acrylic vs pom plate, would there be a noticeable increase in flex going to pom?
Plate isn't particularly visible in the closed case, so didn't figure there was much reason to offer it in matte, but if you want it in matte, leave a note in the order and I can do it in that material.
POM is a bit more flexy, but not a lot, it's mostly a sound change with the increased density IMHO
Hit 100 orders already, GB is closed. I'll be running another round in November, thanks everyone.
I'm in for one, looking forward to this as well!
Just to be sure, does anyone know if the standard Arisu layout supports regular backspace?
The only changes the standard Arisu makes is swapping the left bottom 2 1.25u keys for a left aligned 1.5, and dropping the extra B and right side 1.25, the stepped capslock and 2u backspace remain an option since their plate footprint is the same with both options.
Hit 100 orders already, GB is closed. I'll be running another round in November, thanks everyone.
Looks great! Glad I chose the clear frosted bottom.
Do you mind posting a picture of how you soldered the LED strip to the board?
Show Image(https://i.imgur.com/iB5b2G9.jpg)
I place the strip pads slightly overlapping the pads on the board and solder across.
Show Image(https://i.imgur.com/iB5b2G9.jpg)
I place the strip pads slightly overlapping the pads on the board and solder across.
Super excited for this board! Any chance you can share which led strip you're using? This will be my first time adding underglow on my own. Also, will the default firmware have LED support built in, or will we have to create our own firmware?
Thanks so much for all the work you've done on this board.
Hey there when will we be able to grab the plate and case files to cut on our own if possible :D
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
So I had an idea.
Would it be possible to have a set of holes on the front side of the bottom case for feet to accomodate negative angle (mirror of those already planned)? I think it would marry well with the ergonomics of this layout.
Would the usb port have enough clearance?
Sent from my Pixel 3 using Tapatalk
Is it possible to modify the top and bottom piece to allow the screws to sink in like the one linked below?
https://www.reddit.com/r/mechmarket/comments/d1t3l8/usfl_h_frosted_acrylic_alice_new_w_paypal/ (https://www.reddit.com/r/mechmarket/comments/d1t3l8/usfl_h_frosted_acrylic_alice_new_w_paypal/)
Can we get rid of the screw holes on top?
Is it possible to modify the top and bottom piece to allow the screws to sink in like the one linked below?
https://www.reddit.com/r/mechmarket/comments/d1t3l8/usfl_h_frosted_acrylic_alice_new_w_paypal/ (https://www.reddit.com/r/mechmarket/comments/d1t3l8/usfl_h_frosted_acrylic_alice_new_w_paypal/)
Yep, feel free to grab a countersink and some flat head countersunk m3 screws.
Is it possible to modify the top and bottom piece to allow the screws to sink in like the one linked below?
https://www.reddit.com/r/mechmarket/comments/d1t3l8/usfl_h_frosted_acrylic_alice_new_w_paypal/ (https://www.reddit.com/r/mechmarket/comments/d1t3l8/usfl_h_frosted_acrylic_alice_new_w_paypal/)
Yep, feel free to grab a countersink and some flat head countersunk m3 screws.
+1Is it possible to modify the top and bottom piece to allow the screws to sink in like the one linked below?
https://www.reddit.com/r/mechmarket/comments/d1t3l8/usfl_h_frosted_acrylic_alice_new_w_paypal/ (https://www.reddit.com/r/mechmarket/comments/d1t3l8/usfl_h_frosted_acrylic_alice_new_w_paypal/)
Yep, feel free to grab a countersink and some flat head countersunk m3 screws.
Any chance you can do that for us with a small fee? I don't want to buy like 50 screws just to use 4 of them, and I am worry that I might break the thing in the process of drilling :-X
I'm really digging these colors over the red ones. This keyboard is going to look amazing.My thoughts exactly, the red was so-so, and I mostly covered it with frosted case and white POM. Now I'm almost sad I didn't go clear - almost.
So, dumb question. Would you go with clip-in or screw in stabs? I've heard of screw-in causing shorts on some PCBs.
From my count, this requires, 5. Am I correct?
Thanks!
PCB order has been placed, hardware ordered, and acrylic/POM sheet order has been placed with my local supplier.
PCB order has been placed, hardware ordered, and acrylic/POM sheet order has been placed with my local supplier.So hyped, just got the switches I will use!
Quick update, factory has given a revised shipping date on the PCBs for Oct 30Thanks for the update ! Two week push back, ooof.
Quick update, factory has given a revised shipping date on the PCBs for Oct 30Thanks for the update ! Two week push back, ooof.
Are the cases in production, or are you waiting of PCBs?
Thanks! :)
Sent from my Pixel 3 using Tapatalk
No worries! Appreciate all the hard work!Quick update, factory has given a revised shipping date on the PCBs for Oct 30Thanks for the update ! Two week push back, ooof.
Are the cases in production, or are you waiting of PCBs?
Thanks! :)
Sent from my Pixel 3 using Tapatalk
I've got the POM on hand now, ordered it first since my supplier doesn't carry it locally, Acrylic I'll pick up when I start cutting, which will probably be this coming week, hoping to have everything else done by the time the PCBs arrive. Already have the packing materials and hardware in. Lost a week of fab time to the holiday in China last week.
No new news from the factory, so I assume they're still on target for the 30th, case production is ongoing.
Is it possible to modify the top and bottom piece to allow the screws to sink in like the one linked below?
https://www.reddit.com/r/mechmarket/comments/d1t3l8/usfl_h_frosted_acrylic_alice_new_w_paypal/ (https://www.reddit.com/r/mechmarket/comments/d1t3l8/usfl_h_frosted_acrylic_alice_new_w_paypal/)
Yep, feel free to grab a countersink and some flat head countersunk m3 screws.
What length for the m3 screws?
Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk
Nothing new from the factory yet, cases are almost all cut, everything should be ready to ship as soon as the PCBs arrive. I paid for DHL shipping, so the boards should be here just a few days after production.
I'm thinking round 2 GB will launch the last week of November, hopefully after all the R1 orders ship.
Official Round 2 dates are Nov 24th through Dec 2nd, or until we reach 50 orders of each design. This will be a combo round with the Gothic50 kit, a compact layout version of the Gothic70.Show Image(https://i.imgur.com/T2V63c8.png)Show Image(https://i.imgur.com/DGC43ZT.jpg)Show Image(https://i.imgur.com/N5CV30T.jpg)
Will the sales be made through your Etsy page per usual?
On one hand I am excited for R2 but on the other I wish I had gotten R1 already to know if I should jump on the Gothic50. Not sure if I like the split life yet.
Looks like the pages are up for the 70, how do we order the 50 instead?
I'm excited to participate in R2, but I wanted to confirm if it'd be possible to change my shipping address (probably in mid-late December) before taking part. I know I'll be moving in early January, but the address hasn't been finalized so I was hoping to put in my current address until I have an update. Thanks in for all of your work!
I ordered it!
I forgot to add a note on my order requesting to have the arisu blockers...how else can I contact you about it?
What is the arisu blockers you mentioned? I'm not sure I understand the difference
I don't know if someone asked it or if you have said before but, does shipping come with tracking?
Okay, that is great to hear. Excited to get my hands on the board!I don't know if someone asked it or if you have said before but, does shipping come with tracking?
Yeah, I don't know of an untracked option for packages in the US, lol. you will get a tracking email when your order ships.
This seems interesting, what's the production time on an order of all 3 parts (Case, PCB and plate) if ordered this week ?
For the r1 cases, I'm guessing not but are there holes in the bottom for putting feet on the board? If not, is it safe to drill holes for them in the acrylic, or is it safer to use something like a soldering iron to make the holes?
For the r1 cases, I'm guessing not but are there holes in the bottom for putting feet on the board? If not, is it safe to drill holes for them in the acrylic, or is it safer to use something like a soldering iron to make the holes?
Yes, there are standard 4mm holes for the cone feet in the bottom of both rounds.
Gothic70 Round 1 orders start shipping tonight, will go out over the next week or so. Round 2 I expect to ship in March, but will go out sooner if the fab gets me the PCBs faster this time.
What screws does this use?
What screws does this use?
M3
Wow, can't believe I missed this. Will there be another round after this?
Just got it in the mail today. Can't wait to open it after work. Thanks for organizing!
Just got it in the mail today. Can't wait to open it after work. Thanks for organizing!
any pics :p
I built mine on Tuesday.
(Attachment Link)
OEM and Cherry stabs both clip and screw work fine with the plate.
Newb question.
What type of stabilizers will I need for this?
What size?
Looks like I will need three.
Newb question.
What type of stabilizers will I need for this?
What size?
Looks like I will need three.
4 2u stabs (enter, backspace, left space, right space)
It looks like you can use any stab, PCB mount, plate mount, or PCB screw in. I'm basing that off looking at this link (https://www.keebtalk.com/t/stabilizers-plate-mount-vs-pcb-mount-vs-screw-in/3265/3), the plate files, and the pictures of the PCB bottom.
Any estimate on when the rest will be shipped?
The order is 1234657, gravity and friction keep the PCB down in its place, it will lift up when switching keycaps, but you just push it back down. This is one of the uses for the plate foam, it takes up that gap space. Just FYI, this is typical of acrylic layer cases.
Just finished my build:
Anyone know how to program it? I like to use my right thumb to hit the space bar so can't really type very well on the default layout haha
OEM and Cherry stabs both clip and screw work fine with the plate.
Yeah, I'm using Cherry screw ins. I'll look at it more tonight and see what I can figure out.
OEM and Cherry stabs both clip and screw work fine with the plate.
Yeah, I'm using Cherry screw ins. I'll look at it more tonight and see what I can figure out.
Just got mine in and have the same issue with GMK screw-in stabs. Plate (black pom in my case) is too thick or not cut out enough around the stab base :(
Did you figure anything out or try any filing down?
Have all boards shipped? I have not received any tracking information yet. :(
Have all boards shipped? I have not received any tracking information yet. :(
I’m in the same boat. Sucks to see people already post their completed builds when I’m guessing my board won’t even get to me til after the new year.
Round 2 is going to ship in March/April.
RGB strip can be used, standard ws2812b 5v strip tied to the 3 pads near the spacebar row, square pad is ground. Make sure to put some electrical or kapton tap over the cut ends of the strip so it doesn't short out against the PCB.
Left space is 2u, right is 2.25 IIRC. I'm out of town right now so I can't pull up the design.
There's a link in the OP to the firmware folder, the keymap file in the default keymap folder has the layout in it.
Did anyone else get a plate with standard square cutouts and not switch top opening cutouts? Even stranger is a couple of my keys are switch top opening (g and h) while the rest are not. I am pretty disappointed in no switch top opening (which the protos showed) and the inconsistencyThey are extra wide so they only hold the top and bottom of the switch. You can still open the top housings
Did anyone else get a plate with standard square cutouts and not switch top opening cutouts? Even stranger is a couple of my keys are switch top opening (g and h) while the rest are not. I am pretty disappointed in no switch top opening (which the protos showed) and the inconsistency
Hey Worldspawn,I'm pretty sure it's snap in or screw in only, and that's on the PCB (ie. No plate mount). The plate allows the stabs to pass through.
Got the kit in the mail a few days ago, it looks beautiful.
Having a tiny problem, I think the cut outs on the plate for the stabilizers are too big? I have the clear acrylic, and the stabilizers cannot snap in, nor do I see the holes for the screw in stabilizers (I have and tried both plate mount and screw in). Video should be attached that I hope shows what I mean better.
Is the plate cut too large or am I just being really thick about installing these stabilizers?
(https://imgur.com/FcZH6D5 (https://imgur.com/FcZH6D5) a link in case the attachment doesn't work).
Hey Worldspawn,
Got the kit in the mail a few days ago, it looks beautiful.
Having a tiny problem, I think the cut outs on the plate for the stabilizers are too big? I have the clear acrylic, and the stabilizers cannot snap in, nor do I see the holes for the screw in stabilizers (I have and tried both plate mount and screw in). Video should be attached that I hope shows what I mean better.
Is the plate cut too large or am I just being really thick about installing these stabilizers?
(https://imgur.com/FcZH6D5 (https://imgur.com/FcZH6D5) a link in case the attachment doesn't work).
Did anyone else get a plate with standard square cutouts and not switch top opening cutouts? Even stranger is a couple of my keys are switch top opening (g and h) while the rest are not. I am pretty disappointed in no switch top opening (which the protos showed) and the inconsistency
Previous post is correct, like the minivan, most of the cutouts are oversized rectangles that have clearance for switch opening, a couple of them have the side tabs still present to prevent the PCB from sliding sideways. The main advantage to the larger holes is that with laser cutting a bit of skew can occur and the plate can end up tight at one end, having a couple mm extra space around the keys on the side allows space so they don't get pinched, and overall doesn't affect the fit of the switches any.more than the switch top opening tabs does.
I was looking at the default layout and noticed you have a tap dance function on the caps lock key. How does that work? I'm trying to activate caps lock with double tap but only activates LCTRL. I'm also doing this with tweezers and a keyboard tester, so I assume I might actually have to solder the switch first for it to work?
I was looking at the default layout and noticed you have a tap dance function on the caps lock key. How does that work? I'm trying to activate caps lock with double tap but only activates LCTRL. I'm also doing this with tweezers and a keyboard tester, so I assume I might actually have to solder the switch first for it to work?
Well, when your entire household is sick on New Year’s Eve, you build a keyboard I guess.
Very fun build! Everything went together smoothly. Slight moment of panic when a column stopped responding and I thought I lifted an entire row of pads, until I realized that the back of the led strip was conductive and shorting it (first time adding a strip myself), but once that was sorted all was well.
PCB is beautiful and I kind of fed bad hiding it behind POM, but I had to try the POM and I’m happy I did - it sounds fantastic!
Wonderful group buy experience. Looking forward to learning more of the features of QMK, as before last night, I had only ever used the configurator to compile firmware.Show Image(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200101/84a265be77db8649a4bfa75fa7aed15c.jpg)Show Image(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200101/563ccd7ae33427bd46cfd88a6447e5db.jpg)Show Image(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200101/3b2bc4d3b81e52e68efba75cc6406f6b.jpg)Show Image(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200101/3f51480143a9a8b3a505b4f5cf5e41a3.jpg)
Well, when your entire household is sick on New Year’s Eve, you build a keyboard I guess.
Very fun build! Everything went together smoothly. Slight moment of panic when a column stopped responding and I thought I lifted an entire row of pads, until I realized that the back of the led strip was conductive and shorting it (first time adding a strip myself), but once that was sorted all was well.
PCB is beautiful and I kind of fed bad hiding it behind POM, but I had to try the POM and I’m happy I did - it sounds fantastic!
Wonderful group buy experience. Looking forward to learning more of the features of QMK, as before last night, I had only ever used the configurator to compile firmware.Show Image(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200101/84a265be77db8649a4bfa75fa7aed15c.jpg)Show Image(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200101/563ccd7ae33427bd46cfd88a6447e5db.jpg)Show Image(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200101/3b2bc4d3b81e52e68efba75cc6406f6b.jpg)Show Image(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200101/3f51480143a9a8b3a505b4f5cf5e41a3.jpg)
The order is 1234657, gravity and friction keep the PCB down in its place, it will lift up when switching keycaps, but you just push it back down. This is one of the uses for the plate foam, it takes up that gap space. Just FYI, this is typical of acrylic layer cases.
The order is 1234657, gravity and friction keep the PCB down in its place, it will lift up when switching keycaps, but you just push it back down. This is one of the uses for the plate foam, it takes up that gap space. Just FYI, this is typical of acrylic layer cases.
So just to confirm, if we want to use the plate foam, it would go in between 4 and 6 correct? I just want to make sure I'm using everything in the intended order!
Any ETA on when the last batch will be shipped? I'm really excited to build in this and the pictures being posted are just making me antsy.
The last 2 orders in Round 1 will go out on Tuesday, the rest have been shipped.
Any ETA on when the last batch will be shipped? I'm really excited to build in this and the pictures being posted are just making me antsy.
Maybe a little premature but is there a planned r3?
The last 2 orders in Round 1 will go out on Tuesday, the rest have been shipped.
Dang, I guess my luck got me on the last order :D. I look forward to getting it.
Are only 7 LEDs supported on the RGB strip header? I can't get more than that number to light. Is that changeable or do I just need to trim the strip down to 7?
I guess it's you and me in the last order XD
Does pre-shipment mean you only printed the shipping label? It's been stuck on that status for a few days now. Starting to wonder if USPS already messed with my package. Wanted to check here before asking there.
Does pre-shipment mean you only printed the shipping label? It's been stuck on that status for a few days now. Starting to wonder if USPS already messed with my package. Wanted to check here before asking there.
Generally I drop packages off at the post office the day after I print the label, PM me your order number and I can check into it.
Did anyone build their Gothic 70 with 7305s for hot swappable switches? If so how did it go and would you recommend?Also interested in this question :)
Did anyone build their Gothic 70 with 7305s for hot swappable switches? If so how did it go and would you recommend?Also interested in this question :)
Oh, ok, thanks. I wonder if the pcb is compatible with holtite 8134-HC-8P3 sockets?Did anyone build their Gothic 70 with 7305s for hot swappable switches? If so how did it go and would you recommend?Also interested in this question :)
If you are interested in building it with Mill-Max sockets, here is a tip from worldspawn from the IC: https://geekhack.org/index.php?topic=101999.msg2805391#msg2805391
Are only 7 LEDs supported on the RGB strip header? I can't get more than that number to light. Is that changeable or do I just need to trim the strip down to 7?
the config.h file defines how many LEDs are used, it's 7 as the default, but it can be changed to whatever you like.
Finished mine with some Laseron switches and a cheap key set (for now). I may have gone overboard on the LEDs...
(Attachment Link) (Attachment Link)
Finished mine with some Laseron switches and a cheap key set (for now). I may have gone overboard on the LEDs...
(Attachment Link) (Attachment Link)
Can someone help me troubleshoot why my 6-Y-H-N row is not registering?
Can someone help me troubleshoot why my 6-Y-H-N row is not registering?
Did anyone build their Gothic 70 with 7305s for hot swappable switches? If so how did it go and would you recommend?Also interested in this question :)
mind sharing where you got those LED stripes?
Anyone able to flash their board? Can't seem to figure it out at all. Thought I was following QMK guides just fine, but clearly not. :(
Anyone able to flash their board? Can't seem to figure it out at all. Thought I was following QMK guides just fine, but clearly not. :(
Sent you a pm!Anyone able to flash their board? Can't seem to figure it out at all. Thought I was following QMK guides just fine, but clearly not. :(
I've been able to - happy to help anyone else with hex files if they send me keymap images for each layer.
Can someone help me troubleshoot why my 6-Y-H-N row is not registering?
This definitely sounds like an issue with the MCU (at least from my experience). I had a similar issue on a different build where one of the rows on my PCB was not firing (I think it was F8-0-P-:). I'll detail the steps I took to fix the issue (see below), although it's a bit risky and I'd try to see if you can source a new PCB if possible.
Basically, it seems like there is a spotty connection from the 6-Y-H-N column to the MCU. In order to fix it, you have to identify the pin on the MCU that corresponds to that column. I forget which MCU is used on the Gotchic70 (maybe ATmega32a?). If so, Google "atmega32a pin out" to find an image with a list of the pinouts for the MCU.
Once you've identified which pin corresponds to the 6-Y-H-N column (unfortunately, I'm not at all well-versed in these things, so someone else might be able to help you with that), you need to re-flow some solder to that exact pin. Your best bet is probably to use a flux pen to apply some flux to solder.
I should warn you to be very careful when you solder the pin, and to only solder the exact pin you need. From my personal experience on a different build: I ended up accidentally soldering a few pins together on the MCU (used soldering wire instead of flux, don't do this), which caused half the columns on my PCB to stop firing. Wasn't able to remove/revert my soldering mistake = PCB ded.
Also, I think Nathan encountered the same issue during one of his builds. You can see what he does to troubleshoot the issue here (starts fix at around 2:11:50):
Not sure how helpful this is but good luck!
Just got around to building mine!Show Image(https://cdn.discordapp.com/attachments/454662207708594176/670786574501281792/IMG_20200125_205149.jpg)Show Image(https://cdn.discordapp.com/attachments/454662207708594176/670833774908669972/IMG_20200125_224505.jpg)
7 isn't enough, so here's 16 xD
Just got around to building mine!Show Image(https://cdn.discordapp.com/attachments/454662207708594176/670786574501281792/IMG_20200125_205149.jpg)Show Image(https://cdn.discordapp.com/attachments/454662207708594176/670833774908669972/IMG_20200125_224505.jpg)
7 isn't enough, so here's 16 xD
What leds are those? Built mine without knowing leds weren't already on it... Never messed with lighting before, but might as well take advantage of the frosted underside.
how accurate is the "Your order is scheduled to ship by Feb 10, 2020. Check back then for updates." on etsy?
Just got around to building mine!Show Image(https://cdn.discordapp.com/attachments/454662207708594176/670786574501281792/IMG_20200125_205149.jpg)Show Image(https://cdn.discordapp.com/attachments/454662207708594176/670833774908669972/IMG_20200125_224505.jpg)
7 isn't enough, so here's 16 xD
What leds are those? Built mine without knowing leds weren't already on it... Never messed with lighting before, but might as well take advantage of the frosted underside.
I ordered some ws2812b LED strips from Taobao and soldered them onto the back of the pcb!
So hopefully my guide above helps and maybe that will show any glaring mistakes I made because: I'm having a problem with the keyboard. When the LED changes color either in the rainbow pattern or if I'm cycling through the colors, either when I get to the color or maybe it's just the color that happens, but I get to like a greenish/yellow and the keyboard "crashes" (dies, stops responding, whatever). The only way to get it back is to unplug it for >15 seconds, plug it back in, and change the color before it crashes again. Anyone else having an issue like this?
Besides, I love this board! This is my first "Alice" kind of layout and I have to say I see all the hype and don't plan on using anything else for work!
So hopefully my guide above helps and maybe that will show any glaring mistakes I made because: I'm having a problem with the keyboard. When the LED changes color either in the rainbow pattern or if I'm cycling through the colors, either when I get to the color or maybe it's just the color that happens, but I get to like a greenish/yellow and the keyboard "crashes" (dies, stops responding, whatever). The only way to get it back is to unplug it for >15 seconds, plug it back in, and change the color before it crashes again. Anyone else having an issue like this?
Besides, I love this board! This is my first "Alice" kind of layout and I have to say I see all the hype and don't plan on using anything else for work!
That would be the internal fuse tripping, each SMD LED can draw up to 49mW, standard 2.0 USB bus (and the fuse in the board) are rated at 500mA, so 38 LEDs are likely blowing the fuse. You need to limit the maximum brightness
add this line to the config file
RGBLIGHT_LIMIT_VAL 255
and lower the value to something that won't exceed 500mA with all leds lit, the range is 1-255
Can someone help me troubleshoot why my 6-Y-H-N row is not registering?
I have the same issue with my 3-E-D-C column on my gothic70. Going to try fix it in a couple of days - I can let you know how it goes?
Maybe a little premature but is there a planned r3?
Not yet. ;D If so, it would probably be this summer.
Maybe a little premature but is there a planned r3?
Not yet. ;D If so, it would probably be this summer.
Please. Super interested in R3!
What's the best point of contact if I need to change a shipping address for a R2 order?
A whole column firing usually means theres a short, check your soldering, there's probably a bridge between one of the switches and the surrounding pattern, clean up any excess solder using braid. All the PCBs have been tested before I sent them out and definitely did not exhibit that sort of issue when they were packed.
Yes, depends on where the solder bridge is, but it can cause both non-responsive switches or multiple switches to fire at once. You're looking for things like the photo here, the pin to the right of the '63' is bridged and causing that column to not work at all.Show Image(https://i.imgur.com/nDZLW3M.jpg)
Is mid march / early april still accurate?
Quick update, got the PCBs in for the Gothic50, and Gothic70 are on their way via DHL now, but my shop has been shut down for 2 weeks due to virus, so there will be a delay in shipping till the 27th, sorry everyone, will update when things resume.
I can confirm that he has an order in and I can change the shipping on it to the buyer :)I’d would like to take this order if nobody else has
Current status is looking like Tuesday for getting a laser cutter for my work from home situation, probably a couple days to get it all set up, so hopefully will start cutting these cases next weekend. Will update as things progress. Sorry again for the delays, but I'm doing my best to get these out ASAP! Thanks everyone for your patience.
I can confirm that he has an order in and I can change the shipping on it to the buyer :)
Current status is looking like Tuesday for getting a laser cutter for my work from home situation, probably a couple days to get it all set up, so hopefully will start cutting these cases next weekend. Will update as things progress. Sorry again for the delays, but I'm doing my best to get these out ASAP! Thanks everyone for your patience.
I can confirm that he has an order in and I can change the shipping on it to the buyer :)
Current status is looking like Tuesday for getting a laser cutter for my work from home situation, probably a couple days to get it all set up, so hopefully will start cutting these cases next weekend. Will update as things progress. Sorry again for the delays, but I'm doing my best to get these out ASAP! Thanks everyone for your patience.
I would like to take this order if possible
Good to know thanksI can confirm that he has an order in and I can change the shipping on it to the buyer :)
Current status is looking like Tuesday for getting a laser cutter for my work from home situation, probably a couple days to get it all set up, so hopefully will start cutting these cases next weekend. Will update as things progress. Sorry again for the delays, but I'm doing my best to get these out ASAP! Thanks everyone for your patience.
I would like to take this order if possible
It has already been claimed. I will have some extras once the Group Buy ships, I'll post here when avaialble.
I can confirm that he has an order in and I can change the shipping on it to the buyer :)
Current status is looking like Tuesday for getting a laser cutter for my work from home situation, probably a couple days to get it all set up, so hopefully will start cutting these cases next weekend. Will update as things progress. Sorry again for the delays, but I'm doing my best to get these out ASAP! Thanks everyone for your patience.
I would like to take this order if possible
It has already been claimed. I will have some extras once the Group Buy ships, I'll post here when avaialble.
I can confirm that he has an order in and I can change the shipping on it to the buyer :)
Current status is looking like Tuesday for getting a laser cutter for my work from home situation, probably a couple days to get it all set up, so hopefully will start cutting these cases next weekend. Will update as things progress. Sorry again for the delays, but I'm doing my best to get these out ASAP! Thanks everyone for your patience.
I would like to take this order if possible
It has already been claimed. I will have some extras once the Group Buy ships, I'll post here when avaialble.
I've got the new laser up and running, just getting it tuned for the materials now, sorry it's taking so long, but I want to be sure the quality is the best it can be! Thanks everyone for your continued patience with this process. I'm doing my best to get these great boards out to you ASAP!Thank you for the update :)
Another update, Laser is good to go and production of the cases has started! I'll post more as I get ready to ship, thanks everyone.
Any update on the progress so far?
Any update on the progress so far?
Still cutting, white acrylic cases are all done, white and black POM are 75% complete, clear and frosted acrylic plates and bottoms are done, midlayers and bezels are in the queue.
Shipping has begun, thanks everyone for your patience.Awesome news, thank you!
Packages go out the day after I print the shipping label, so if you see a wrong address, hit me us ASAP and I can probably change it before USPS picks it up.
For no additional charge to you guys, I've upgraded the Gothic domestic orders to Priority Mail, and added insurance to the international orders just in case there are unforseen issues due to CoVid.
About 15% of orders have shipped as of today.
Thanks for everyone's patience with the shipping on these ;D
Any news on when extras will be available?
Sent from my POCOPHONE F1 using Tapatalk
I just finished building my Gothic70 yesterday and am trying to change the keymap with the QMK configurator and am getting the error dfu-programmer: no device present. when i attempt to flash
any ideas on what i need to do to get this working?
Thanks
I just finished building my Gothic70 yesterday and am trying to change the keymap with the QMK configurator and am getting the error dfu-programmer: no device present. when i attempt to flash
any ideas on what i need to do to get this working?
Thanks
Are you hitting the reset button on the bottom before trying to flash it?
Can someone explain where I'm going wrong or maybe give me some suggestions on what I can do?
Really? Omg... I followed what information I could find online. I had no idea this PCB had specific holes for rgb. I feel so silly now.
Thank you, I really appreciate it. I will fix it tomorrow and it probably will work lol
Do you have any extra plate foam and does that help to keep the plate up?
Do you have any extra plate foam and does that help to keep the plate up?
Yes, I can always do plate foam, it takes up the space and maintains the gap between the plate and the PCB.
I'll PM you the detailsOkay, thanks!
I'll probably run another round this fall.
I'll probably run another round this fall.
Thank you, this is great news. Is following this thread enough to get a notification when this happens?
Well, as of today my tracking stopped updating. The parcel got stuck in Chicago being handed off for international shipping for about two months and now the tracking number isn't available. I'm trying my best not to be too grumpy about that because the USPS situation is affecting everyone in the US more and in more important ways than me with my keyboard but I can't help but be worried a bit.
Well, as of today my tracking stopped updating. The parcel got stuck in Chicago being handed off for international shipping for about two months and now the tracking number isn't available. I'm trying my best not to be too grumpy about that because the USPS situation is affecting everyone in the US more and in more important ways than me with my keyboard but I can't help but be worried a bit.
Has anyone else had issues with the stabilizers on the Gothic70?Yes, the original plate didn’t work for me. The newest plate ( https://github.com/worldspawn00/Gothic70/blob/master/Gothic70%20cut%20files/plate.svg ) works better, but somehow still gets me with sticky stabs, and sometimes not right away. Usually after a few minutes or hours of typing. I am glad someone else has tried different stabs, because I thought it might just be my stabilizers which are all from one batch.
I don't know what it is with Arisu and Gothic70, which is a derivative of the Arisu, but these are the only keyboards I've had consistent issues with sticky stabilizers. I've tried cherry stabs, c3 equals and durock screw-in stabs. I've assembled 4 Arisu/Gothic70 boards, and only one of them had no issues with the stabs. I've assembled dozens of other keyboards and never had an issue with stabs on any of the other boards.
Yes, the original plate didn’t work for me. The newest plate ( https://github.com/worldspawn00/Gothic70/blob/master/Gothic70%20cut%20files/plate.svg ) works better, but somehow still gets me with sticky stabs, and sometimes not right away. Usually after a few minutes or hours of typing. I am glad someone else has tried different stabs, because I thought it might just be my stabilizers which are all from one batch.
With the older version you could tell right away that the plate was squeezing the stab wire, or that was my interpretation. I have never been able to figure out what the issue is with the newer version of the plate (rounded cutouts version). I sent the one I have with the old plate to merlin64 to be desoldered and swapped with the new (rounded cut out plate).Yes, the original plate didn’t work for me. The newest plate ( https://github.com/worldspawn00/Gothic70/blob/master/Gothic70%20cut%20files/plate.svg ) works better, but somehow still gets me with sticky stabs, and sometimes not right away. Usually after a few minutes or hours of typing. I am glad someone else has tried different stabs, because I thought it might just be my stabilizers which are all from one batch.
Did you figure what the problem actually is/was? Is the plate squeezing the stabs somehow?
I just finished assembling my Gothic70, but didn't really want to start troubleshooting tonight.
I was thinking maybe it's the PCB given that they're PCB mounted stabs, but like I said I didn't really have a chance to troubleshoot so I'm just speculating. Maybe it allows mounting the stabs slightly skewed or maybe the holes for the stabilizer are slightly too far or close to what they should be.
With the older version you could tell right away that the plate was squeezing the stab wire, or that was my interpretation. I have never been able to figure out what the issue is with the newer version of the plate (rounded cutouts version). I sent the one I have with the old plate to [mention]merlin64 [/mention]to be desoldered and swapped with the new (rounded cut out plate).
Is there any possible way to alter the case (DIY) so the screws feed from the bottom? Or another way to secure the case?
Is there any possible way to alter the case (DIY) so the screws feed from the bottom? Or another way to secure the case?
The screws enter from the top and bottom and secure to standoffs that reside in the inner layers, there's not a good way to move the screws off the top. If you want something that stands out less, getting matching black, white or nylon screws can be done, and you can countersink them so they sit flush with the top of the case. The top screws are m3, 10mm long.
I fixed the issue with shaving a bit of the plate off on top of the stab wire with a xakto knife and lubing the underside of the plate and the stab wire as well. Seems to be working very well since. 4 more stabs to go...and 2 Arisu boards after that.
With the older version you could tell right away that the plate was squeezing the stab wire, or that was my interpretation. I have never been able to figure out what the issue is with the newer version of the plate (rounded cutouts version). I sent the one I have with the old plate to merlin64 to be desoldered and swapped with the new (rounded cut out plate).Yes, the original plate didn’t work for me. The newest plate ( https://github.com/worldspawn00/Gothic70/blob/master/Gothic70%20cut%20files/plate.svg ) works better, but somehow still gets me with sticky stabs, and sometimes not right away. Usually after a few minutes or hours of typing. I am glad someone else has tried different stabs, because I thought it might just be my stabilizers which are all from one batch.
Did you figure what the problem actually is/was? Is the plate squeezing the stabs somehow?
I just finished assembling my Gothic70, but didn't really want to start troubleshooting tonight.
I was thinking maybe it's the PCB given that they're PCB mounted stabs, but like I said I didn't really have a chance to troubleshoot so I'm just speculating. Maybe it allows mounting the stabs slightly skewed or maybe the holes for the stabilizer are slightly too far or close to what they should be.
Various people have very kindly suggested solutions of adjusting the different layers, WS suggested that it might be the cap rubbing against the case bezel.
Hi!
I just got my Gothic70 and I just wanted to ask for like a somewhat in-depth tutorial on how to solder on RGB strips onto the back of the PCB. I'm looking throughout the back of the PCB and I can't seem to find the places to solder them in, can anyone advise me on where it is? Also, I hear the default RGB strips for this keyboard is 7, and I'm just wondering how am I able to change that. (Sorry, I'm a complete novice at this)
Also, am I able to flash the board with VIA using this hex file?: https://github.com/worldspawn00/Firmwares/blob/master/gothic70/gothic70-via-pack.zip
Thanks!
#define RGBLED_NUM 7Will there be any plans for a second gb?
Finally getting around to building mine but lost the standoffs and screws. Do these use M3 hex standoffs?
I recently bought a gothic from someone on mm and I was also wondering if the via file posted above would work?
Hi! this is probably a dumb question, but since gothic 70 plates are out of stock, are there any other alternatives that we could use? Such as plates for the tgr alice or the maja.
Thanks!
Will there be any plans for a second gb?
Yeah, I'll be running another round this december with some new options! More details once prototypes arrive.
Will there be any plans for a second gb?
Yeah, I'll be running another round this december with some new options! More details once prototypes arrive.
I can't tell you how excited this makes me! I've been looking for a solid Alice-type with arrows (since I'm of the "Right-side B" clan).
Just to check because I'm confused - second group buy =/= R2? From the main post it looks like R2 is all sold out on your shop, but then in the most recent post here, you're saying the prototypes just arrived! I really hope that I didn't miss my chance to get one. :D
Just to check because I'm confused - second group buy =/= R2? From the main post it looks like R2 is all sold out on your shop, but then in the most recent post here, you're saying the prototypes just arrived! I really hope that I didn't miss my chance to get one. :D
Haven't missed it yet, waiting on Lunar New Year celebrations to end to get the rest of the parts in.
Here's the first photos of the machined case, fully gasketed top mount, gaskets between top and plate, and between top and bottom. Default bottom will be 4.5mm acrylic, planning to offer at least 1 metal bottom option, got prototypes made in aluminum, polished brass, and polished stainless. Case weighs about 2.5lbs, the stainless bottom weighs almost 3.5 lbs by itself, and the brass bottom weighs nearly 4 lbs.
Here's the first photos of the machined case, fully gasketed top mount, gaskets between top and plate, and between top and bottom. Default bottom will be 4.5mm acrylic, planning to offer at least 1 metal bottom option, got prototypes made in aluminum, polished brass, and polished stainless. Case weighs about 2.5lbs, the stainless bottom weighs almost 3.5 lbs by itself, and the brass bottom weighs nearly 4 lbs.Oh me oh my, these are looking absolutely stunning. I cannot wait for this!
Are only 7 LEDs supported on the RGB strip header? I can't get more than that number to light. Is that changeable or do I just need to trim the strip down to 7?
the config.h file defines how many LEDs are used, it's 7 as the default, but it can be changed to whatever you like.
Are only 7 LEDs supported on the RGB strip header? I can't get more than that number to light. Is that changeable or do I just need to trim the strip down to 7?
the config.h file defines how many LEDs are used, it's 7 as the default, but it can be changed to whatever you like.
I just got mine recently and wanted to install LEDs in it. Can the RGB be changed with the VIA hex flashed and controlled with VIA app` or will only the QMK hex work and have to be controlled with keymappings from QMK?
I just got my Gothic70 put together and three of the columns aren't working. Anything I can do about that or am I most likely SOL?
I just got my Gothic70 put together and three of the columns aren't working. Anything I can do about that or am I most likely SOL?
hope im not too late. could be a short with your soldering, like 2 joints touching each other. did you solder in your switches?
nice! yeah i dont think it will be. glad you got it fixed!I just got my Gothic70 put together and three of the columns aren't working. Anything I can do about that or am I most likely SOL?
hope im not too late. could be a short with your soldering, like 2 joints touching each other. did you solder in your switches?
Appreciate you commenting back. It turns out I had the solder touch the solder mask one the PCB. Just need some cleaning up and then everything was in working order. Sounded like the solder mask issue is something that won't be an issue for future revisions of the PCB.