Plate-Mounted Switches on PCB?

[KPopOG]

Hi everyone,
I believe my current keyboard has plate mounted switches/is plate mounted (whatever terminology is correct). It has like switches that you can just pull out with the included tool. Here the link: http://a.co/aBKL656

I'm getting new switches (help me choose some here https://geekhack.org/index.php?topic=94153.0) and want to reuse my old switches in a macropad or new keyboard. I can't find any guides on DIYing anything with plate mounts. Anyone have any clue on how to do this? Thanks!

[BlindAssassin111]

From the looks of it you have Outemu dust-proof switches, which are indeed plate mount. As long as you have a new board that you can make a plate for or has one, it will be an easy swap. Not using a plate would technically work, but when removing a keycap you risk ripping it out of the pcb.

[BlindAssassin111]

Also, the dust proof switches use smaller pins, so generally only Outemu switches will fit in those sockets on the PCB. You would need to desolder/remove the sockets in order to use different switch brands on that board as most use larger (technically normal size) pins, and Outemu is the only one I know that makes small pin switches. So keep that in mind.

[Kavik]

Plate mounted simply means that there is some material (usually steel, aluminum, or some kind of polymer) between the switches and the PCB, as opposed to PCB mounted which means the switches rest directly on top of the PCB, which isn't all that common to my knowledge.

In terms of the switches, Plate-mount switches only have two copper contacts protruding from the bottom (along with the round center plastic plunger piece). PCB-mount switches have two extra plastic legs. A lot of plate-mounted custom keyboards (and even one of my old Corsairs oddly) have the two holes in the PCB for the two extra legs, meaning you can use either type of switch (it supposedly adds a bit of stability and helps line up the switch better even with the plate). But a lot of plate mount consumer boards' PCBs don't have the two extra holes; in that case, you either have to use plate-mount switches or clip the plastic legs off the PCB-mount switches for them to fit.

[KPopOG]

Thanks for all the responses! Means a lot  <3

From the looks of it you have Outemu dust-proof switches, which are indeed plate mount. As long as you have a new board that you can make a plate for or has one, it will be an easy swap. Not using a plate would technically work, but when removing a keycap you risk ripping it out of the pcb.

Are you sure they're plate-mounted? Just popped out one of the switches to check, and it's directly in the PCB. Is it common to have PCB-mounted switches that aren't soldered in? (see attachment 1)


If they are plate-mounted: Does the plate have to be anything special? I have access to a 3D printer and other materials. I'd rather not 3D print much (owned by my school, limited student access), but could if necessary. Depends how high quality this needs to be, but I have lots of leftover cardstock or plastic folders that are pretty durable.

If I didn't use a plate, would they have to be soldered to the PCB? I don't have any soldering experience. I know people who do, but trying to keep this as low budget as possible.

Also, the dust proof switches use smaller pins, so generally only Outemu switches will fit in those sockets on the PCB. You would need to desolder/remove the sockets in order to use different switch brands on that board as most use larger (technically normal size) pins, and Outemu is the only one I know that makes small pin switches. So keep that in mind.

I know some people who have keyboards with Cherry MX switches, so I can try putting those in mine. What do you mean by "desolder/remove" the sockets? Like replace the little holes where the switch clips in?

Plate mounted simply means that there is some material (usually steel, aluminum, or some kind of polymer) between the switches and the PCB, as opposed to PCB mounted which means the switches rest directly on top of the PCB, which isn't all that common to my knowledge.

In terms of the switches, Plate-mount switches only have two copper contacts protruding from the bottom (along with the round center plastic plunger piece). PCB-mount switches have two extra plastic legs. A lot of plate-mounted custom keyboards (and even one of my old Corsairs oddly) have the two holes in the PCB for the two extra legs, meaning you can use either type of switch (it supposedly adds a bit of stability and helps line up the switch better even with the plate). But a lot of plate mount consumer boards' PCBs don't have the two extra holes; in that case, you either have to use plate-mount switches or clip the plastic legs off the PCB-mount switches for them to fit.

Oh, good to know! I was thinking that PCB-mounted switches are really common, and plate-mounted pretty rare.


Well, this is really annoying. This whole project seemed pretty straight forward, but I guess not... Really hope there's still a way to make this work!

[BlindAssassin111]

Both pcb and plate mounted switches mount onto PCBs, the difference being plate mounted switches lack pins to better support themselves when just mounted to a PCB.

Yours are definetely plate mounted, so without the plate they arent as sturdy.

What I mean by desolder is heat it up with a soldering iron and remove the little sockets from the board. Doing this will allow the switch pins to be directly soldered to the pcb and no longer be "hot-swappable", but it means you can use any brand switch, ie. Cherry, Kailh, Gateron, etc.

Basically, desolder the sockets, insert new switches, solder new switches, be happy.

Hope this makes sense, barely awake atm...

[BlindAssassin111]

Oh and for the plate if you build a macropad, look into the sweet16 from 1upkeyboards, fairly cheap and you can download the case files and have them cut by ponoko for just shipping on the first order.

The plate has to have specific dimensions, within a set tolerance to work, 3D printing would work but may be a bit beyond your current skill set with keyboards.

Or you could use swillkb to build the plate for you and just send the files to be made.

[KPopOG]

Both pcb and plate mounted switches mount onto PCBs, the difference being plate mounted switches lack pins to better support themselves when just mounted to a PCB.

Yours are definetely plate mounted, so without the plate they arent as sturdy.

What I mean by desolder is heat it up with a soldering iron and remove the little sockets from the board. Doing this will allow the switch pins to be directly soldered to the pcb and no longer be "hot-swappable", but it means you can use any brand switch, ie. Cherry, Kailh, Gateron, etc.

Basically, desolder the sockets, insert new switches, solder new switches, be happy.

Hope this makes sense, barely awake atm...

Haha, I could probably use some sleep too ;P. Makes some sense I think.

Basically, just remove the silver socket, replace the switch, and just fill in with solder?

Oh and for the plate if you build a macropad, look into the sweet16 from 1upkeyboards, fairly cheap and you can download the case files and have them cut by ponoko for just shipping on the first order.

The plate has to have specific dimensions, within a set tolerance to work, 3D printing would work but may be a bit beyond your current skill set with keyboards.

Or you could use swillkb to build the plate for you and just send the files to be made.

Ahead of you. Pretty much decided on the Sweet16, and found case blueprints on Thingiverse. And, yeah I don't trust my self to design it haha.
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2783573 (Plate + case )

If I did buy the Sweet16, do I need to get the legs? What purpose do they serve?

Thanks again! Got any ideas on switch ideas? That thread is linked in the first post on this thread.

[KPopOG]

Both pcb and plate mounted switches mount onto PCBs, the difference being plate mounted switches lack pins to better support themselves when just mounted to a PCB.

Yours are definetely plate mounted, so without the plate they arent as sturdy.

What I mean by desolder is heat it up with a soldering iron and remove the little sockets from the board. Doing this will allow the switch pins to be directly soldered to the pcb and no longer be "hot-swappable", but it means you can use any brand switch, ie. Cherry, Kailh, Gateron, etc.

Basically, desolder the sockets, insert new switches, solder new switches, be happy.

Hope this makes sense, barely awake atm...

Nevermind. Didn't know that it could be swapped with any Outemu switch. There's no way I'm doing all that if I don't have to.

Gonna try and get a refund, and if not, then swap with some other variety of Outemus.

You can get them from mechanicalkeyboards.com, but going to wait for Massdrop to see how cheap it is.

Thanks for the help! Really appreciate everything, and so happy to finally get what I need.

[BlindAssassin111]

If I did buy the Sweet16, do I need to get the legs? What purpose do they serve?

The legs serve a purpose if you don't get a case, or use a  case that is just a top switch plate and a bottom plate, the legs then just separate the plates. But if you use that case you showed, you won't have to buy them.

[Rob27shred]

Both pcb and plate mounted switches mount onto PCBs, the difference being plate mounted switches lack pins to better support themselves when just mounted to a PCB.

Yours are definetely plate mounted, so without the plate they arent as sturdy.

What I mean by desolder is heat it up with a soldering iron and remove the little sockets from the board. Doing this will allow the switch pins to be directly soldered to the pcb and no longer be "hot-swappable", but it means you can use any brand switch, ie. Cherry, Kailh, Gateron, etc.

Basically, desolder the sockets, insert new switches, solder new switches, be happy.

Hope this makes sense, barely awake atm...

Nevermind. Didn't know that it could be swapped with any Outemu switch. There's no way I'm doing all that if I don't have to.

Gonna try and get a refund, and if not, then swap with some other variety of Outemus.

You can get them from mechanicalkeyboards.com, but going to wait for Massdrop to see how cheap it is.

Thanks for the help! Really appreciate everything, and so happy to finally get what I need.

Since your stuck with Outemu on that board because of the sockets I'd say give one of their new ICE switches a try, https://mehkee.com/collections/switches-and-parts/products/outemu-switches-purple-teal?variant=48787280079. I haven't used them personally yet but have heard good things about them. That should make you projects a lot easier than having to de-solder the hot swap sockets off your existing board.