Author Topic: failed RIT dye keycap experiment :(  (Read 22767 times)

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Offline WhiteFireDragon

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failed RIT dye keycap experiment :(
« on: Sat, 11 February 2012, 20:26:01 »
After searching long and hard for blank dark grey or black PBT's, none were to be found anywhere so I decided to use RIT dye to try and get the desired shade of grey and black that I wanted. I thought this was a good idea after seeing several successful attempts from other people. I also saw many failed attempts of dying, and I'm shameful to add to this statistics.

I bought blank white PBT caps from qtan, and started my procedures, taking precaution in every step to do it right and not cut any corners since I only had one shot at doing this. First was the prepping, which took a little over an hour. I first rinsed all the caps under running tap water, then shook them dry. They were then submerged and washed under distilled water to get rid of all the trace elements in tap water, and shook dry. They were then submerged under 91% Isopropyl alcohol to get any remaining impurities and oil out. I then used napkins to wipe each surface of every individual cap. Prep was finally done.

Next step was the actual dying process, which took a total of 4-6 hours. I first boiled about a half cup of water to dissolve about half the pack of RIT dye. After mixing it all and dissolving it, I poured this concentrated dye solution in a small pan and diluted it to about half the pan. The heat was turned up to low-medium to get a warm dying solution. Then I put all the caps in, gently stirred, and checked about every 10 seconds. After a few minutes of this, there was almost no change to the white color of the caps, so things started to go wrong already. Finally after 30 minutes, it was starting to turn a different color; it wasn't gray! It was a hint of brown instead. But the color was so light, I figured if I kept it in there a little longer and turned the heat up a little, it should probably get to the right grey. I turned the heat to medium gently stirred it, and after about another hour, it's pretty clear now that this was getting browner instead of grey. The color was still pretty light though. After a few hours of heating and stirring, a lot of the water from the dying solution was lost in the form of steam, so I added more water until about half the pot was full again. I also added some salt to see if it'll help the colors absorb. After a few more hours of babysitting these caps, it was a dark brown instead of the grey I had hoped for :Cry:.

After washing them off and towel drying each one, I also realized they didn't dye evenly. Most of them had blemishes and scratches, and some of them were darker than others. Since I wanted a grey and black them, I put all the larger modifier caps and arrow keys (and the function keys above it) back in the dying solution to turn it so brown that hopefully it turns black. Since it seemed like this process took too long for any change, I turned the heat up just a tad more, and added the rest of the dye packet. After about another 2 hours, it was a very very dark brown, almost black. I took it out, washed it, and dried them again. I put all the caps on my keyboard, and here is what it looks like.


This is what I wanted the colors to look like, except blank keys.



This is how it turned out.




« Last Edit: Sat, 11 February 2012, 20:51:37 by WhiteFireDragon »

Offline WhiteFireDragon

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« Reply #1 on: Sat, 11 February 2012, 20:26:14 »
I was pretty disappointed in the results, they were brand new PBT's, which wasn't cheap either. I tried to figure out what went wrong, and I concluded it was both the dye and the caps to blame. Here's why.

I took every step very slow, and probably took many steps that were not even necessary but it was better safe than sorry. So I don't think it was anything wrong I did in the actual procedures. I thought the scratches might have been from the stirring from the chopsticks constantly hitting the caps and the caps constantly hitting each other, but this was not the case. My stirring was very gentle. I tested this by taking one cap and tried to scratch it with the chopstick very hard, but it did not scratch the dye. Then I took 2 caps and rubbed them on each other very hard, and it would not show that kind of scratch or blemish either. When I looked at the back of every cap, I also noticed that there was the small dot where the seam was that did not fully take the dye either because it was very light in color, similar to the color of all the "scratches". I figured it was because these PBT caps weren't made 100% even, so there were some small areas of the plastic that was resistant to the dye. And since all keys were placed in the same time and taken out the same time, there should not be a variation in the darkness shades. Here is what I mean by the seam dots that did not absorb the dye well:

Since the whole thing was submerged in the dye solution, every area of the cap should have the same color. But this little dot on all of them and the scratches/blemishes on some of them probably means that there is a lack of uniformity in the plastic.



Now that explains for why it didn't have a uniform color, but that still doesn't explain why the color is brown instead of grey. I bought black, not brown or gold, so I see no reason why it did not turn black other than a bad batch of RIT dye. If the caps started out as yellow, adding in grey/black to make brown would make sense, but the caps started out as pure white, it shouldn't have turned brown. Here is the RIT dye package that I bought:





To conclude: This was a huge waste of 6+ hours of time. I didn't just drop it in and leave for 6 hours, I was there the whole time to constantly check and stir it. It seems like both the PBT caps and the dye was to blame here. If you had good results with dying PBT caps, please post what you did and what kind of PBT caps you used and where you got them.
« Last Edit: Sat, 11 February 2012, 20:47:55 by WhiteFireDragon »

Offline o2dazone

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« Reply #2 on: Sat, 11 February 2012, 20:30:51 »
What color did you use? Black? What did you use to achieve dark grey? Dark colors don't really work well with dyeing, they get real muddy and splotchy :( sorry it didn't work out for you

Offline WhiteFireDragon

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« Reply #3 on: Sat, 11 February 2012, 20:53:38 »
Quote from: o2dazone;512157
What color did you use? Black? What did you use to achieve dark grey? Dark colors don't really work well with dyeing, they get real muddy and splotchy :( sorry it didn't work out for you
Yeah I used Black. RIT dye only has one shade of black. I tried to get grey for the inner keys by leaving it in there for a "short" period of time and take them out before it turned all the way black, but it turned ugly brown instead.

Offline Input Nirvana

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« Reply #4 on: Sat, 11 February 2012, 21:08:32 »
My observation on the Rit dye process for Geekhackers: Rarely very happy. GH'rs by nature are picky, techy guys that are used to fairly precise stuff. Although a fair amount are noodlers, and tinker the **** out of things, they are used to being able to 'tinker-it-perfect' eventually. Rit dye ain't that kinda medium.

WFD: For what its' worth, it doesn't necessarily look bad, just not what you wanted or were expecting. Sorry :(
Mebbe do it again being less careful, since your efforts were fairly unrewarded?
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Offline wuBu

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failed RIT dye keycap experiment :(
« Reply #5 on: Sat, 11 February 2012, 21:41:43 »
did you get a 104 set? maybe you should have practiced with the tenkeys before the 87set.

Offline hashbaz

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« Reply #6 on: Sun, 12 February 2012, 02:23:51 »
Bummer.  I've read in various threads that liquid dye works better than powder.  I think I even remember one person saying that powdered dye caused his keys to go brown.  Might be worth trying some liquid dye, if only to get a better sense of what went wrong. :-/

Offline pitashen

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« Reply #7 on: Sun, 12 February 2012, 03:00:05 »
Remember there was a thread of someone's nice Rit dye results. It seems he is too lazy to post again after the roll back. Anyway, he mentioned that he went through a repeating process of cooking, cooling off with tab water and then cooking again. He did not do any black/gray color however.
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Offline o2dazone

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« Reply #8 on: Sun, 12 February 2012, 10:31:54 »
If I remember correctly, even Megarat's superdyed HHKB his blacks turned out a somewhat slightly muddier brown



F and J are black dyed. With all this said, it's unfortunate that your set dyed the way it did. Have you ever tried submerging it in more black and see if it will take the color a bit more? Looks like you don't have much to lose at this point. Perhaps try liquid over powder, or try adding salt.

Offline tsangan

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« Reply #9 on: Sun, 12 February 2012, 10:34:05 »
Ouch, sorry to hear about this WhiteFireDragon more reasons for me to be afraid of rit dye.

I'm staring at you o2dazone :cool:
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Offline Findecanor

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« Reply #10 on: Sun, 12 February 2012, 11:22:55 »
I tried to dye some Cherry PBT keys using liquid Rit black. I also use a lot of it and boiled it for many hours, but they did not turn as dark as WhiteFireDragon's keys even. His keys fared better than mine.

I think that it is just the black Rit that is bad in comparison to other colours. I have heard from other (non keyboard-related) forums about getting bad results with it. I dyed a T-shirt in the same solution that I had tried for keys and that result was a bit brownish also.

I might try to dye my black keys green instead (opposite colour) to see if it they will darken more.

Quote from: hashbaz;512343
Bummer.  I've read in various threads that liquid dye works better than powder.:-/
I have heard the opposite.

Offline o2dazone

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« Reply #11 on: Sun, 12 February 2012, 11:31:21 »
Quote from: tsangan;512492
Ouch, sorry to hear about this WhiteFireDragon more reasons for me to be afraid of rit dye.

I'm staring at you o2dazone :cool:

Just stick with tried and true colors :P My guess is black just sucks at absorbing into the plastic. (Much like Royal Blue Rit powder

Offline tsangan

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« Reply #12 on: Sun, 12 February 2012, 11:33:38 »
I need your list then :P
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Offline o2dazone

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« Reply #13 on: Sun, 12 February 2012, 11:35:52 »
Damnit, I had it in the other post before the forum got rolled back...

Offline shawn o

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« Reply #14 on: Sun, 12 February 2012, 11:36:54 »
Did you guys add iodized salt to the water/rit dye mixture? And I mean ALOT of salt. That is essential for dye to penetrate the plastic.

Offline tsangan

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« Reply #15 on: Sun, 12 February 2012, 11:37:31 »
make us some youtube videos too while you're at it :llama:
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Offline o2dazone

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« Reply #16 on: Sun, 12 February 2012, 11:56:49 »
Quote from: shawn o;512519
Did you guys add iodized salt to the water/rit dye mixture? And I mean ALOT of salt. That is essential for dye to penetrate the plastic.

I added some extra salt, but I believe Rit Dye comes with a ton of salt in it already. Who knows how much to add additionally, I'd love to know if the results are drastically different adding a couple tablespoons to each mixture.

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« Reply #17 on: Sun, 12 February 2012, 12:16:29 »
I died my unicomp spacesavers keys with black powdered rit dye. It took ages to take, they came out as burgundy originally. But after about 1hr they went black.

Offline WhiteFireDragon

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« Reply #18 on: Sun, 12 February 2012, 23:13:14 »
Quote from: o2dazone;512514
My guess is black just sucks at absorbing into the plastic. (Much like Royal Blue Rit powder

It might suck at absorbing into the plastic, which explains why the actual dying time took 4-6 hours, but that doesn't explain for the brown color instead of grey/black, and it also doesn't explain why the colors came out so uneven shades with blemishes. I think this was just a bad batch of dye, and also the PBT caps were not made completely uniform either.


Quote from: shawn o;512519
Did you guys add iodized salt to the water/rit dye mixture? And I mean ALOT of salt. That is essential for dye to penetrate the plastic.

After I realized it took a loooong time for the dye to soak in, I added a lot of salt. It didn't seem to help the dye absorption into the plastic.

Offline cactux

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« Reply #19 on: Sun, 12 February 2012, 23:17:23 »
Too many variables in this process
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Offline WhiteFireDragon

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« Reply #20 on: Tue, 14 February 2012, 21:15:55 »
I just submerged 1 test cap in pure Clorox bleach for half a day, absolutely no affect in removing the color to re-dye. Once you dye, you can't go back. I'll try to "fix" it by just dying everything pure black in the next few days.

Offline dorkvader

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« Reply #21 on: Tue, 14 February 2012, 22:54:52 »
Quote from: WhiteFireDragon;514691
I just submerged 1 test cap in pure Clorox bleach for half a day, absolutely no affect in removing the color to re-dye. Once you dye, you can't go back. I'll try to "fix" it by just dying everything pure black in the next few days.
I dunno about bleach... have you tried oxi-clean and/or h2o2?

Offline lorem3k

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« Reply #22 on: Tue, 14 February 2012, 23:22:09 »
Is it safe to dye ABS key caps with RIT dye at a lower temperature (maybe 85-90)?
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Offline WhiteFireDragon

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« Reply #23 on: Wed, 15 February 2012, 02:32:35 »
Quote from: ripster;514722
Although invented here OCN has the best RIT guide.

http://www.overclock.net/t/551389/keyboard-dye-customization-guide
I saw that guide already. I pretty much did the same things, but more steps and more careful. Looks like a lot of their results turned out uneven as well.

Quote from: dorkvader;514810
I dunno about bleach... have you tried oxi-clean and/or h2o2?
Have no tried oxiclean yet, but I do question its effectiveness if bleach can't do it. And I always though hydrogen peroxide was more of a disinfectant than a color bleacher.

Quote from: lorem3k;514861
Is it safe to dye ABS key caps with RIT dye at a lower temperature (maybe 85-90)?
If I were personally dying ABS caps, I wouldn't even use heat at all. Just use a higher concentration of dye, and soak it for longer. That should have the same effects as higher temperature.

Offline hashbaz

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« Reply #24 on: Wed, 15 February 2012, 02:38:44 »
I don't think anyone has successfully dyed ABS keycaps.

Offline TopazPie

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« Reply #25 on: Wed, 15 February 2012, 17:04:13 »
Yikes. I was going to do this to some pbt keys coming in the mail. Now I'm not too sure... At least yours didn't melt, that was awful seeing the destroyed sets on the rit dye thread. Sorry they didn't come out the way you wanted.

Offline cactux

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« Reply #26 on: Wed, 15 February 2012, 17:09:23 »
ABS keycaps wont take the heat, they will melt
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Offline lorem3k

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« Reply #27 on: Wed, 15 February 2012, 22:40:04 »
What if I used a lower heat, though? ABS's melting point is 105 C, so if I go lower it should probably work, or I suppose I could just try it without heat. I think I'll pick up some Rit Dye some time and give it a try without heating it
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Offline TopazPie

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« Reply #28 on: Wed, 15 February 2012, 22:55:57 »
Quote from: lorem3k;515760
What if I used a lower heat, though? ABS's melting point is 105 C, so if I go lower it should probably work, or I suppose I could just try it without heat. I think I'll pick up some Rit Dye some time and give it a try without heating it

I am interested to see how this will turn out. Sacrificing key caps for science! From the rit dye thread it doesn't seem like the abs will take the dye at lower temps though.

Offline WhiteFireDragon

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« Reply #29 on: Wed, 15 February 2012, 23:11:17 »
^ Try submerging them and just leaving it for a whole day, periodically check every 15 minutes first, and if you see the dye not soaking in, then check every hour for a day. That way you won't risk warping them.

Offline cactux

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« Reply #30 on: Wed, 15 February 2012, 23:14:22 »
^ did you use tap water ? I think the water plays an important role in this prosses (concentration of calcium)
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Offline WhiteFireDragon

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« Reply #31 on: Wed, 15 February 2012, 23:17:40 »
Yes I did, but I filtered it with a Britta filter first. I actually though about that, so this time I'll be using distilled water with a higher quality teflon coated pan.

Offline dorkvader

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« Reply #32 on: Wed, 15 February 2012, 23:50:44 »
Quote from: WhiteFireDragon;515788
Yes I did, but I filtered it with a Britta filter first. I actually though about that, so this time I'll be using distilled water with a higher quality teflon coated pan.
You may want to look into some De-Ionized water, It's not too expensive, and normal filtered water could affect the chemistry of it all. Good choice with the PFTE, though.
« Last Edit: Wed, 15 February 2012, 23:59:04 by dorkvader »

Offline WhiteFireDragon

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« Reply #33 on: Thu, 16 February 2012, 00:24:13 »
I work in a lab, I have unlimited access to DI water ;). I already bought distilled water anyways for my next dying attempt.

Offline WhiteFireDragon

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« Reply #34 on: Fri, 17 February 2012, 19:20:16 »
I managed to "fix" these by turning everything as black as they will get. The idea was to leave it in there so long that it will just dye all the blemishes on all keys to the same color. I left all caps in a simmering dye solution for about 3 hours with a gentile stir every 10-15 minutes. After 2 hours, it did not get any darker, but I left it in there for another hour just to make sure. Here are the results:


Offline WhiteFireDragon

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« Reply #35 on: Fri, 17 February 2012, 19:23:51 »
They didn't turn out too bad. You can see it has a different shade of black than the SC2 caps from SP, but at least the dye matches the filco case's black shade. In the end, it looks decent, but still not what I wanted, so I'll be selling these off soon. I'll get new caps to try again.

Offline alaricljs

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« Reply #36 on: Fri, 17 February 2012, 20:41:31 »
I know there was someone looking for blank black PBT, shouldn't be too hard as long as they're really as even as they look now :)  good luck
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Offline captain

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« Reply #37 on: Mon, 20 February 2012, 04:04:36 »
RIT dye sucks!  I can't believe no one has mentioned using professional quality dye here.  Ripster, you asleep?  ;-P

Back when I was dying everything I owned to match, I discovered Dharma Trading Company, in Cali.  That is the place to get quality dyes!  They just work right, and don't fade like RIT always does.  http://www.dharmatrading.com

You'll notice they have a variety of dye.  I'd bet the ones specifically designed for polyester would work best on the PBT keys.  It's going to be REALLY hard to dye ABS in its finished product state; you may as well just order the color you want from SigPlast and be done with it.  

If you want to know more about the chemistry, wiki is your friend:  
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Acrylonitrile_butadiene_styrene
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Polybutylene_terephthalate

Oh no!  I'm almost to 100 posts, and I haven't even asked Ripster a question during my period of reprieve.  :-P
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Offline WhiteFireDragon

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« Reply #38 on: Tue, 21 February 2012, 04:22:59 »
Quote from: captain;519433
Back when I was dying everything I owned to match, I discovered Dharma Trading Company, in Cali.  That is the place to get quality dyes!  They just work right, and don't fade like RIT always does.  http://www.dharmatrading.com

I loooooove youu ^_^

I'll give them a call tomorrow to see which type of dye is suitable. They have like a fajillion options.

Offline omuerte

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« Reply #39 on: Thu, 23 February 2012, 19:50:23 »
Quote from: lorem3k;515760
What if I used a lower heat, though? ABS's melting point is 105 C, so if I go lower it should probably work, or I suppose I could just try it without heat. I think I'll pick up some Rit Dye some time and give it a try without heating it

I'm kind of curious about this too - I sacrificed a handful of ABS blanks from WASD earlier today trying to dye them. They dimpled within 30 seconds of going into the water, and it wasn't even boiling :p

Heh, the colors looked nice though.

I'm going to order a bunch of blank pbt keycaps from qtan and see what sorts of results I can get.
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Offline lorem3k

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« Reply #40 on: Thu, 23 February 2012, 20:34:44 »
Thanks for doing that for me, I've been really busy lately and haven't had any time to try it myself. Did you add any heat at all?
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Offline WhiteFireDragon

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« Reply #41 on: Fri, 24 February 2012, 03:16:06 »
Quote from: lorem3k;515760
What if I used a lower heat, though? ABS's melting point is 105 C, so if I go lower it should probably work, or I suppose I could just try it without heat.
105C is obviously not going to work, because water already boil at 100C. I don't think it's a specific melting temp you're looking for, but just think of it as the higher the temperature, the faster they will warp. I tried to dye stock Leopold white caps with no heat at all, and the dye had absolutely no affect.



Quote from: omuerte;523712
I'm kind of curious about this too - I sacrificed a handful of ABS blanks from WASD earlier today trying to dye them. They dimpled within 30 seconds of going into the water, and it wasn't even boiling :p

Heh, the colors looked nice though.

I'm going to order a bunch of blank pbt keycaps from qtan and see what sorts of results I can get.
What do you mean by "dimple"? They warped and deformed? The caps you see in the pics are white blanks from qtan also, so I'm very curious to see your results. Be sure to post back!

Offline tsangan

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« Reply #42 on: Fri, 24 February 2012, 03:19:23 »
I going to be bugging you a lot WhiteFireDragon, got these rit dye but don't really have a clue, did you find out anything with that other dye?
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Offline WhiteFireDragon

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« Reply #43 on: Fri, 24 February 2012, 03:51:01 »
Which other dye? The ones from dharmatrading mentioned on the previous page?

If that's the one you were referring to, then yeah I called them, but the lady I spoke to doesn't have a clue or any advice regarding any type of plastic dying. She can only help out on clothing.

That's a nice collection of dye you have there. If you're going to take the plunge on dying, take your time. Try to do 1 cap first to see how it turns out. I made the mistake of doing all the caps at the same time and fuked up all of them :frown:
« Last Edit: Fri, 24 February 2012, 03:53:12 by WhiteFireDragon »

Offline tsangan

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« Reply #44 on: Fri, 24 February 2012, 03:57:28 »
Quote from: WhiteFireDragon;524116
Which other dye? The ones from dharmatrading mentioned on the previous page?

If that's the one you were referring to, then yeah I called them, but the lady I spoke to doesn't have a clue or any advice regarding any type of plastic dying. She can only help out on clothing.

That's a nice collection of dye you have there. If you're going to take the plunge on dying, take your time. Try to do 1 cap first to see how it turns out. I made the mistake of doing all the caps at the same time and fuked up all of them :frown:
I was going to do them all at once lol

Found them at walmart the other day when I went to go pick up a few things so thought I would try it out

And yeah I was talking about the one dharmatrading was talking about. That kinda sucks was hoping for something that can generate more consistent results
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Offline omuerte

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failed RIT dye keycap experiment :(
« Reply #45 on: Fri, 24 February 2012, 22:14:01 »
Quote from: WhiteFireDragon;524102
What do you mean by "dimple"? They warped and deformed? The caps you see in the pics are white blanks from qtan also, so I'm very curious to see your results. Be sure to post back!
You guessed it - the starter keys I tested with were WASD ABS blanks (as in, blank keys from WASD - not qtan.) I contacted qtan about buying a bunch of white pbt blanks to play with but I haven't heard back yet.

I think the biggest factor here is going to be experience. If you want good results you're going to have to spend some time noodling with a few 10's of keys before you are proficient at getting the results you want. That's why I wanted to buy pbt blanks, I have this feeling I'm going to kill a bunch in various ways before I get good results.

e: if anyone is going to take the plunge and try this do just a couple caps at a time until you figure out heat, time, etc - don't dump them all in at once on the first go or you're going to end up paying a fortune in replacement keycaps :p
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Offline WhiteFireDragon

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« Reply #46 on: Tue, 13 March 2012, 17:08:06 »
So I bought black dye from Dharmatrading.com and dyed one key from my thick PBT set from imsto's GB. I tried to get a grey color by taking it out before it turned all the way black, and it turned into an ugly purple-ish color. at least this time it only took less than a minute compared to 4 hours last time. From the looks of the color and blemishes, it's a another failed attempt, but at least I didn't screw up the whole set.

This pic shows comparison of colors. Black esc is from my CM storm, other blank esc is from a dark grey WASDkeyboard set, one long one is how it looks before dying and the other is how it looks after dying.

Offline dorkvader

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failed RIT dye keycap experiment :(
« Reply #47 on: Tue, 13 March 2012, 18:25:08 »
I don't think the purple looks that bad, really. Maybe it's worse in person.

Do Dharmatrading have any gray dyes? Sometimes if you call a company like that, they will give you good information, tips and suggestions, even if they don't have exactly what you need.

Other than the colour issue (I mean, what can one expect using black dye to make a key gray?) would you recommend dharmatrading over RIT?

Offline omuerte

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failed RIT dye keycap experiment :(
« Reply #48 on: Wed, 14 March 2012, 02:25:33 »
You can also try using a really dilute dye solution, like, start with 1/10 of what you'd normally use to dye something "black" and work your way up in 1/10 increments until you hit the desired level of darkness. Another trick is to figure out how the dye is shaded at lower intensity than true black - you figured out that those white pbt keys with black dye turn purple, so add the appropriate color to shade the result over towards grey instead. I know purple + yellow makes brown, I'm having a hard time remembering my basic RGB mixing to know how to take it toward gray instead.

ed: Did you clean the keycaps with anything before you put them into the dye? You might try using either dish soap or oxyclean (I'd use oxyclean personally) and doing a quick soak first. Also, try wearing exam gloves to avoid getting any oil on the keycaps before they go into the dye. That should reduce discoloration from surface contamination.

I really want to try this now but I've spent way too much money on doubleshots already this month.
« Last Edit: Wed, 14 March 2012, 02:28:49 by omuerte »
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Offline captain

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failed RIT dye keycap experiment :(
« Reply #49 on: Wed, 14 March 2012, 05:36:11 »
no no no no no!  Professional dyes are not meant to be half-assed.
Buy the dye color you want, and then dye the keys for the FULL time (we'll have to experiment since the "time for textile" probably won't be exactly the "time for PBT keycap")

I bet that if you put that "purple" key back in the dye bath for 30 minutes you'll have a BLACK keycap.  If you want grey, buy the grey dye.  Their vibrant colors are really spectacular.  I'd love to see what you get for some cyans and oranges!

If someone wants to send me some PBT white keycaps, I'm doing a yarn dying workshop next week, and could toss some keys in, and report back the results.  PM me.
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Offline BossBorot

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failed RIT dye keycap experiment :(
« Reply #50 on: Wed, 14 March 2012, 23:53:04 »
I just took the plunge to my abs mouse to wipe out the logitech logo. It worked out well at 140-150 F so I threw in the default keycaps off of my numpad as well to match my minimalist engraved pbt keyboard while maintaining the right keys in the right place unlike my previous setup.



for reference here is what the mouse looked like before along with the numpad when it had engraved pbt instead.



Also here is the difference between black engraved pbt black dyed on the left and stock on the right.

« Last Edit: Thu, 15 March 2012, 00:12:59 by BossBorot »

Offline hashbaz

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failed RIT dye keycap experiment :(
« Reply #51 on: Sat, 17 March 2012, 12:56:34 »
BossBorot, I think you're the first person to report successfully dying ABS.

Offline hashbaz

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« Reply #52 on: Sat, 17 March 2012, 13:32:58 »
Quote from: ripster;548962
?  No.  Another trick is to use a bit of acetone to let the dye soak in better.

I've heard of that working on ABS in other contexts (yo-yos I think it was).  But has anyone on geekhack actually dyed ABS keycaps without warping them?  I think BossBorot is the first.
« Last Edit: Sat, 17 March 2012, 13:36:08 by hashbaz »

Offline hashbaz

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« Reply #53 on: Sat, 17 March 2012, 13:52:18 »
Oh, derp, I knew that.  They're kind of a special case though because they're so thick.  BossBorot, your numpad keys are standard thin Filco ABS right?  How long were they in the water?

Offline lorem3k

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failed RIT dye keycap experiment :(
« Reply #54 on: Sat, 17 March 2012, 23:28:07 »
Quote from: ripster;548962
?  No.  Another trick is to use a bit of acetone to let the dye soak in better.
I thought that only worked with PBT. :lever:
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Offline dorkvader

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« Reply #55 on: Sun, 18 March 2012, 00:36:08 »
Quote from: lorem3k;549423
I thought that only worked with PBT. :lever:
Yes, I was wondering about the acetone thing: Isn't that bad for ABS?

Offline lorem3k

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« Reply #56 on: Sun, 18 March 2012, 00:43:42 »
Yes. Only dye PBT with acetone. Use a 2:1 ratio of acetone:dye. Definitely won't wreck your PBT caps, no siree. Don't question it just do it.
« Last Edit: Sun, 18 March 2012, 00:46:10 by lorem3k »
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Offline BossBorot

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« Reply #57 on: Mon, 19 March 2012, 00:12:01 »
Quote from: hashbaz;549010
Oh, derp, I knew that.  They're kind of a special case though because they're so thick.  BossBorot, your numpad keys are standard thin Filco ABS right?  How long were they in the water?

less than two hours but around that time frame. It took at least an hour to get the dye into the pad printing before they seemed at all different. To be honest I threw them in as an afterthought after the mouse came out well.

Also I am not 100% sure that the keycaps off of the numpad are abs as their texture is closer to my pbt engraved keycaps then my old ninja abs set. However I do know that my mouse was abs as it was stamped on the inside.