Author Topic: Ducky One Non-Backlit (MX Whites)  (Read 2871 times)

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Offline ander

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Ducky One Non-Backlit (MX Whites)
« on: Sat, 31 December 2016, 04:22:31 »
My Ducky One Non-Backlit with MX Whites arrived today:








This is the rather fantastic deal I posted about here in Great Finds. For $81.24 Canadian (the equivalent of around $59 U.S.), with free shipping, you get a full-size Ducky board with orange-on-black double-shot ABS keys and one of Cherry's rarest switch varieties.

In Asian keyboard forums, MX Whites are called "MX Milk" because MX Clears—which are actually a translucent white—were often referred to as "White". So boards marketed in both the East and West usually show both names:





I'm really digging these these switches. At 80 Cn, they're firm, there's no doubt about that—but with this kind of resistance, it's super-easy to type lightly and quickly without bottoming out. (By contrast, I can't not bottom out on lighter Cherrys like MX Reds or Browns.) The click and tactile feedback help you quickly get a feel for the amount of pressure you need—and if you give it a bit of time, and avoid working harder than you have to, it soon it feels like you're gliding across the key tops, hardly typing at all.

Switches this firm aren't for everyone. If you're one of the many who prefer bottoming out, you'd probably find Whites tiring. But if you're intrigued by the idea of typing quickly and smoothly by playing against key resistance, switches like these needn't seem intimidating; they're an advantage.

There's been much discussion about how MX Whites vary from MX Greens. On the surface, they seem identical: clicky, tactile, identical firmness. I've just typed a bit on my MX Green board to compare them. The White's click is supposed to be softer. I hear no difference—but I'm probably not the best judge of that, as my upper-frequency hearing isn't what it used to be.  :?) 

The Whites do feel smoother. The tactile bump isn't as pronounced. I'd describe the Greens as more "clattery"—which can be a good thing, of course, depending on your mood. They're both quite enjoyable. If I were to choose one to use regularly, I think I'd go with the Whites, if for no other reason than they'd probably be less annoying to anyone around me.

The ABS caps are pleasingly textured, with a slight silvery sparkle (or SSS, as we say in the trade) when the light hits them a certain way:





(Zoom in for the full effect—and at the same time, please pardon my wimpy phone photography)

If you've been around here for a while, you'll know I'm a big advocate of washing one's hands before sitting down to type. Grime is abrasive, and I think that dirty fingers are more to blame for key wear than anything else. I have pad-printed keyboards I've used for years that still don't show any significant signs of wear—so I suspect it'll be quite some time till these caps lose their nice texture (hint, hint).

This is a very well built board, as heavy and solid as my Filco Majestouch. And for a 108-key board (with 4 extra keys over the number pad—Calculator, Volume +/- and Mute), it's quite compact. The detachable micro-USB cable is excellent, and like all Duckys, it includes a rigid transparent cover.

I figure the reasons this great board is so inexpensive are:

  • Most MK users want backlit boards. (Personally, I try not to look at my hands when I type, so lighted boards have always seemed like a distraction.)

That said, only this orange-on-black version is double-shot; the others are dye-sub. Considering that sets of high-quality MX DS caps start around $30–40 U.S., this seems like an even more remarkable deal.

This thing'll last forever—or at least a lot longer than I will! It makes a great companion to my buckling-spring Model M's and F's, which are in the same league in terms of firmness, but at the same time feel completely different.

If you're looking for a little tank of a board by a major MK maker, and you don't care that it doesn't light up like a carnival, it seems like it'd be hard to find a better deal right now.

Ducky also makes a TKL Ducky One Non-Backlit , apparently only in this orange-on-black DS scheme. Ducky's page shows one with Japanese sub-legends, which would be cool:





(It also says, "Ducky One is powered by an ARM M3 micro-controller. This powerful controller allows advanced functions as well as stunning backlighting effects." Oops—a bit to much copying 'n' pasting, Ducky-san!) But I have no idea how they're priced, or if they're even available in the West. If you know, feel free to chime in.
« Last Edit: Sat, 31 December 2016, 04:59:45 by ander »
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Offline ygor

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Re: Ducky One Non-Backlit (MX Whites)
« Reply #1 on: Sat, 31 December 2016, 06:22:53 »
I've got one of these in the TKL version. I like it a lot.
I generally hate all keycaps. Keycaps are for poofs. Real men touchtype on stems. Non-functional artisans are awesome, I use them for the ESC key ... escape is for cowards anyways, real men go frontal assault.

Offline seville57

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Re: Ducky One Non-Backlit (MX Whites)
« Reply #2 on: Sat, 31 December 2016, 07:22:12 »
Hi, I'm sorry but no Ducky One non backlit k - boards here. I got one Ducky One RGB YOTG with Blacks (you could only got the ISO/Nordic Ducky One RGB YOTG with Reds and Browns here in Sweden 2015) and one Pink transparent Ducky One with Reds. I like thoose k - boards design better than the "Bigfeet" design on Ducky Shine 4/5 RGB. 2 things that I don't like  on Ducky One is: 1. Calculator key and 2. You can only turn off 1 Win key. On my old Ducky Shine 3, you can turn off both Win keys.



With Jukebox SA keycap set and 2 orange Pumpkins caps.



Happy new year.
« Last Edit: Sat, 31 December 2016, 08:14:12 by seville57 »

Offline falkentyne

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Re: Ducky One Non-Backlit (MX Whites)
« Reply #3 on: Sat, 31 December 2016, 20:45:06 »
You can turn off both winkeys on the YOTG, Shine 5 and Shine 6.  It's extremely easy: Switch to profile 2-6, and rebind winkey to numlock, scroll lock or left CTRL or right CTRL.  Done.
You just can't use ducky macro in profile #1.

BTW I have a YOTG (browns) also, a Shine 5 nature white, and this new baby here:



The MX blues feel great on this.

@OP: I love MX Greens.  My Ducky Fire 69 edition has MX Greens on the alphas and numbers, and I definitely enjoyed using it.  I heard of a lot of people buying milk/whites and dealing with very inconsistent switch batches or some that don't click; there were several forum posts about that.  Blues are fun, but it's too hard not to bottom out on blues, as once you reach the tactile bump, you're almost always going to bottom out because the force to bottom out is *less* than the force to overcome the tactile click bump.

BTW something you should know:
The best switches for typing well accurately are blues, greens and whites.  Why not browns and clears?  Well, the electrical activation point of browns and clears are *BELOW* the tactile bump, which means it's possible to actually pass the bump and not activate the switch if you are too light handed.  The release point is at the same spot (below the bump).

Blues, greens and milks however have the click trigger bump activate at the EXACT SAME TIME as the electrical activation point, as the mechanism causes the switch to drop automatically below the electrical activation point while engaging the click, so from neutral, it's impossible to activate the bump and not the switch.  However the electrical release point is BELOW the tactile bump click release point, going up, as the click release point moves back upward.  So you can release and re-engage the switch without reaching the release click.  So the 'hystersis' that people talk about is simply the click push and release being at different points; the switch electrical release and engage is still the same.

Offline seville57

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Re: Ducky One Non-Backlit (MX Whites)
« Reply #4 on: Sun, 01 January 2017, 05:55:52 »
You can turn off both winkeys on the YOTG, Shine 5 and Shine 6.  It's extremely easy: Switch to profile 2-6, and rebind winkey to numlock, scroll lock or left CTRL or right CTRL.  Done.
You just can't use ducky macro in profile #1.

BTW I have a YOTG (browns) also, a Shine 5 nature white, and this new baby here:

Show Image


The MX blues feel great on this.

@OP: I love MX Greens.  My Ducky Fire 69 edition has MX Greens on the alphas and numbers, and I definitely enjoyed using it.  I heard of a lot of people buying milk/whites and dealing with very inconsistent switch batches or some that don't click; there were several forum posts about that.  Blues are fun, but it's too hard not to bottom out on blues, as once you reach the tactile bump, you're almost always going to bottom out because the force to bottom out is *less* than the force to overcome the tactile click bump.

BTW something you should know:
The best switches for typing well accurately are blues, greens and whites.  Why not browns and clears?  Well, the electrical activation point of browns and clears are *BELOW* the tactile bump, which means it's possible to actually pass the bump and not activate the switch if you are too light handed.  The release point is at the same spot (below the bump).

Blues, greens and milks however have the click trigger bump activate at the EXACT SAME TIME as the electrical activation point, as the mechanism causes the switch to drop automatically below the electrical activation point while engaging the click, so from neutral, it's impossible to activate the bump and not the switch.  However the electrical release point is BELOW the tactile bump click release point, going up, as the click release point moves back upward.  So you can release and re-engage the switch without reaching the release click.  So the 'hystersis' that people talk about is simply the click push and release being at different points; the switch electrical release and engage is still the same.
I was thinkin/talkin about of the Dip switch like the Shine 2/3/4 boards.
« Last Edit: Sun, 01 January 2017, 05:59:13 by seville57 »

Offline samwisekoi

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Re: Ducky One Non-Backlit (MX Whites)
« Reply #5 on: Sun, 01 January 2017, 11:56:47 »
I have Whites and Greens together on my GH-122 to support the heavy SA keycaps.  Great switches if you like Browns with more weight.  I am using the Whites to support the extra weight of the SA 'caps, with some Greens for audible and tactile difference on arrow and Enter keys.  For me, an all-Green keyboard is just too loud -- and I use a Model F at work!  The Whites, on the other hand, have similar feel and support, but without the/as much noise.

Nice switches, great keyboard find, sir.  Give some SA keycaps a try on that Ducky White sometime.

 - Ron | samwisekoi
Auto-typed by my GH-122 keyboard.
I like keyboards and case modding.  Everything about a computer should be silent -- except the KEYBOARD!

'85 IBM F-122/Soarer Keyboard |  Leopold FC200 TKL (Browns) + GH36 Keypad (Browns/Greens) | GH-122 (Whites/Greens) with Nuclear Data Green keycaps in a Unicomp case

Offline falkentyne

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Re: Ducky One Non-Backlit (MX Whites)
« Reply #6 on: Sun, 01 January 2017, 13:13:21 »
I have a question.
Are greens simply blues with a heavier spring?  Or is there some other small difference (Like greens to milk/white)?  Everyone says the greens are identical to blues with a heavier spring, but on my Ducky Shine 69, the greens click significantly louder than the blues.  So I find it hard to believe that greens are just blues with a different colored shaft and 80g spring...

Offline samwisekoi

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Re: Ducky One Non-Backlit (MX Whites)
« Reply #7 on: Sun, 01 January 2017, 16:52:22 »
I have a question.
Are greens simply blues with a heavier spring?  Or is there some other small difference (Like greens to milk/white)?  Everyone says the greens are identical to blues with a heavier spring, but on my Ducky Shine 69, the greens click significantly louder than the blues.  So I find it hard to believe that greens are just blues with a different colored shaft and 80g spring...

Exact engineering details are not available.  MX Greens and Blues seem the same except for springs, but they do not act the same.  You can test this by making "Ghetto Greens", which are Blues with Black springs installed.  They are similar to, but not identical to, true MX Greens.  To be fair, I have not tried putting a spring from an actual MX Green switch into an MX Blue, which would ensure a 1:1 match in the springs.  I think they would still not be identical.

For that matter, what makes the MX Whites "quiet"?

You can dive into this rabbit hole HERE and HERE.

 - Ron | samwisekoi
Auto-typed by my GH-122 keyboard.
I like keyboards and case modding.  Everything about a computer should be silent -- except the KEYBOARD!

'85 IBM F-122/Soarer Keyboard |  Leopold FC200 TKL (Browns) + GH36 Keypad (Browns/Greens) | GH-122 (Whites/Greens) with Nuclear Data Green keycaps in a Unicomp case

Offline dante

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Re: Ducky One Non-Backlit (MX Whites)
« Reply #8 on: Sun, 01 January 2017, 17:04:37 »
Anybody try making Jailhouse Milk?

Offline falkentyne

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Re: Ducky One Non-Backlit (MX Whites)
« Reply #9 on: Sun, 01 January 2017, 17:32:27 »
I have a question.
Are greens simply blues with a heavier spring?  Or is there some other small difference (Like greens to milk/white)?  Everyone says the greens are identical to blues with a heavier spring, but on my Ducky Shine 69, the greens click significantly louder than the blues.  So I find it hard to believe that greens are just blues with a different colored shaft and 80g spring...

Exact engineering details are not available.  MX Greens and Blues seem the same except for springs, but they do not act the same.  You can test this by making "Ghetto Greens", which are Blues with Black springs installed.  They are similar to, but not identical to, true MX Greens.  To be fair, I have not tried putting a spring from an actual MX Green switch into an MX Blue, which would ensure a 1:1 match in the springs.  I think they would still not be identical.

For that matter, what makes the MX Whites "quiet"?

You can dive into this rabbit hole HERE and HERE.

 - Ron | samwisekoi
Auto-typed by my GH-122 keyboard.


Yeah I just played with my Shine 69 again just now,
and yeah. the click on greens is *definitely* louder and a different pitch than on the blues. And I don't think a difference in springs changes the sound and feel of the click.   As much as I love my RGB MX blue shine 6 YOTM, there's always home for the Shine 69 fire edition!

I think you should try putting a mx green spring into a mx blue and a blue spring into a mx green then test them! :)
« Last Edit: Sun, 01 January 2017, 17:43:58 by falkentyne »

Offline ander

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Re: Ducky One Non-Backlit (MX Whites)
« Reply #10 on: Sun, 01 January 2017, 22:13:44 »
BTW something you should know:
   The best switches for typing well accurately are blues, greens and whites.  Why not browns and clears? ... snip
   Blues, greens and milks however have the click trigger bump activate at the EXACT SAME TIME as the electrical activation point, as the mechanism causes the switch to drop automatically below the electrical activation point while engaging the click, so from neutral, it's impossible to activate the bump and not the switch...

Sorry, you've lost me. First you say Whites are best for typing, but Milks aren't. But those are two names for the same switch. (I know you didn't mean Clears, because you mentioned them separately.)

And why is it a problem for the bump to occur at "the EXACT SAME TIME" as actuation? That's what the bump is supposed to signify, isn't it? Why would you want to feel it without actuating?


@OP: I love MX Greens.  My Ducky Fire 69 edition has MX Greens on the alphas and numbers, and I definitely enjoyed using it.

Yes, they're great. I simply meant they were different from Whites, despite having the same general resistance. (Otherwise why would Cherry bother making one or the other?)


I heard of a lot of people buying milk/whites and dealing with very inconsistent switch batches or some that don't click; there were several forum posts about that.

I don't see why Cherry would have QC problems with only one type of their clicky switches, unless the design was inherently defective—and that seems very unlikely, especially for German engineers with decades of experience in the field.


Blues are fun, but it's too hard not to bottom out on blues, as once you reach the tactile bump, you're almost always going to bottom out because the force to bottom out is *less* than the force to overcome the tactile click bump.

Yup! But some people like to bang away when they type, so Blues are there for them.

Lots of products are like that. Cars, for example. Some people want to get where they're going as smoothly and efficiently as possible. Others want to shift manually, steer and brake with minimal assistance, hear loud engine sounds, feel more bumps in the road... To them, driving is as much a sensory thing as is it about getting where they want to go. It's great that everyone can have the kind of switches they prefer, too.


I have Whites and Greens together on my GH-122 to support the heavy SA keycaps.  Great switches if you like Browns with more weight...

Browns? Don't you mean Blues? Whites and Greens are clicky, not just tactile.


I am using the Whites to support the extra weight of the SA 'caps, with some Greens for audible and tactile difference on arrow and Enter keys.

Cool! I like it, and I'm not even OCD.  :?D


For me, an all-Green keyboard is just too loud -- and I use a Model F at work!

LOL. Well, F's are in a class of their own... They're such a classic, you don't mind the noise.


Nice switches, great keyboard find, sir.  Give some SA keycaps a try on that Ducky White sometime.

Sigh!! Believe me, I would've loved to. My first early computers had caps like those, and I feel a deep connection to them. Unfortunately, I can't justify spending as much on a set of flippin' caps as I could on an entire keyboard (and doubt I could stay married, if I did). I guess that sort of thing is for young, single people like you with so much disposable income that you're always looking for ways to spend it.  :?(


I have a question... Are greens simply blues with a heavier spring?  Or is there some other small difference (Like greens to milk/white)? ...

Exact engineering details are not available.  MX Greens and Blues seem the same except for springs, but they do not act the same...  You can test this by making "Ghetto Greens", which are Blues with Black springs installed.  They are similar to, but not identical to, true MX Greens.  To be fair, I have not tried putting a spring from an actual MX Green switch into an MX Blue, which would ensure a 1:1 match in the springs.  I think they would still not be identical... For that matter, what makes the MX Whites "quiet"? ...

It sounds like you're relying too much on subjective experience. If you were trying to determine what made a car perform a certain way, you wouldn't do that by feeling it, or substituting various parts in it, would you? And we're talking about something far less complex than a car here, a few bits of plastic and metal. Doesn't anyone in the KB community have the right kind of equipment and experience to figure out something like this?


Anybody try making Jailhouse Milk?

Yikes, sounds nasty. :?)
We are not chasing wildly after beauty with fear at our backs. – Natalie Goldberg