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SLIM - A 3D-printed 68% mechanical Keyboard for Pelican-case-cyberdecks

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Mind-Over-Madman:
This is something I am putting in here because I'd like both feedback and advice from you guys on this project. I am creating a handwired 3D-printed 68% keyboard. Current name is the Super-Low-Profile Inexpensive Mechanical keyboard. or SLIM for short.

This board is inspired by a multitude of ortho and 3D-Printed keyboards, most notably:


* Sick-68
* Pinephone Keyboard
* Macha 59
* Ergodox Planck
Intended Features :


* I want this to fit in the lid of a pelican 1150 case, I have an 1150-based cyberdeck and thus this will be -extremely- compact.
* Handwired, 6x12 layout with FKeys. As a certain-esosteric-text-editor-user, and terminal-enthusiast I find not-having FKeys to be a pain in my behind,.
* Kailh Choc Blacks - required as it is a low-profile build. I got mine from mkultra.click, because ebay and amazon suck for buying choc switches.
* Haven't decided on keycaps yet, I'm thinking of printing my own in ninjaflex and dyeing it red (because that's the only color I have on hand).
* Current build has two keys for spacebar, similar to the pinephone keyboard, but I may change things to be more like the planck's space bar.
* M3-6-5 heat-set insert holes will eventually be added, I made and printed some test models, played with some m3-10 wood screws and it worked best with the heat-set inserts. Bare plastic caused it to warp around the edges of where the screw sat, and I didn't like that.
My question for other keyboard DIYers is this:

What should I do in regards to securing the pro micro to the keyboard frame? I really am not sure what to do, and part of me wants to keep it secure but avoid glue as well to make repairing or replacing parts easier.

Would it be worth it to avoid glue at all? I just want to keep the pro micro secured in case of impacts or being knocked around in transit.

Leslieann:
I rarely glue and while I have them I've never bothered with brass inserts.
Funny how keyboard people seem to always want inserts but people designing and building 3d printers rarely use them.

I use wood screws, specifically  #2 and #4 for lots of projects.
Make your holes just a tad undersize then before you assemble it, thread the screw in (without other parts) just a bit, then heat it with a cigarette lighter and drive it in while hot. let them cool, disassemble and start asembling the board. You get a nice good grip, works for bolts as well (up to about 3/8in) but for keyboard small wood screws work just fine.

Check the build log in my signature for my 3d printed board for a few other ideas and tips regarding plastics and infill.

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