Custom built Model M, mixed feelings

[corrupt_penguin]

So last year I was really feeling nostalgic and felt like I needed a good old fashioned IBM keyboard. After shopping around on Ebay and seeing the outrageous prices and all the hassles of converting cables I knew I did not want to go that route. Although I did find this (what I thought) to be awesome company called Unicomp.

While checking out there website I found the warehouse clearance section they had a couple original 1996 IBM industrial grey 101 cases for I think like $30. Seemed like a reasonable start to my custom keyboard journey. So I basically had to buy a new model M, the og case and a custom build charge. So after all that and shipping I think the grand total was around $260. I was really excited to get the board....and then it showed up :sigh:

Damaged box, no real packaging, the experience felt pretty cheap for the money I had spent, but I got it out of the box and no real damage so I was happy. But there was virtually zero communication on the build of the keyboard and I noticed right away the key lock lights are annoying bright blue and not the original green. Since they use a modern logic board they had to drill the holes for the leds in the original case and of course the num-lock hole is drilled off center. The space bar misses its que about 10-20% of the time and is hugely annoying. It has already happened several times just typing this far. Also the USB cable was pinched where it comes out of the back of the case, and tonight I just realized the + key on the 10 key pad has no click to it and only works if you press the very top edge really hard. So right out of the gate I had to pack it up and send it back. I told them about the cable, the space bar issue and in addition the scroll lock light does not function. So a couple weeks later I get the keyboard back and the cable is fixed but nothing else.

For $260 this is a not a good deal, considering some of the awesome mechanical's I have seen for half the price. I recently tried to order some custom keys to spruce up the board to my liking including a new space bar because it does look like the one on there is slightly warped. Also just discovered tonight all the grey key caps are just covers over white caps. Anyways after getting my shipping shut down on their outdated website I had to send an email which while promptly answered basically told me to re-order everything on the website using a different address. I did and my new keys are on the way, but I have to say my experience with Unicomp has not be great and I do not think I will ever be buying from them again and will at this point probably sell this model M at some point, maybe....

Now with all my belly aching over I still have another month left on my 1 year warranty and I could send it back, but given my experience so far, I think I am best on my own. So I am thinking I am going to take this thing apart and see what shes made of. I ordered a caps-lock/cntrl swap set so I can get the control key where it belongs as I already have it mapped there in the OS. I also got a set of grey Vim keys, basically hjkl keys with arrows on them for the basic Vim movements. I also got a black led cover so I can block the led showing through the offset drill holes. The black is a mismatch on the grey case but its fine. Also thinking if possible I might be able to desolder the blue leds and install some original green leds.

I have popped the space bar off and everything appears to be setup correctly, the + key on the 10 key has a stabalizer insert and I think they might have installed it offset the wrong way, the spring looks correct put when you push the key it almost wants to stick in the down position but does return but again with no click and no action.

I would be happy to hear from other M users of your mods and perhaps suggestions on what I might look out for when I take this thing apart.

The key board overall is a beast, its huge, heavy and with the few flaws I have pointed out it works great and I use it as my daily driver. But one of the reasons I am here is to also look at some of the awesome keyboards you guys and gals are rocking on a daily.

I want to love you my sweet M, but baby your really really making me sad

Thanks for reading my M story

[Handke]

Send it back, no reason to struggle with such a thing.

You made a huge mistake by not starting with something simple and proven, like a new and standard model m or a used model f.

I'm not sure that it will be completely covered in warranty though, considered that it's a custom build.

[fohat.digs]

Unicomp is a good company but it must be remembered that their primary focus has always been supplying companies with legacy or legacy-compatible gear to go with their obsolescent computer systems.

Their quality control was diminishing during the past couple of decades (I have one from the very-early-2000s that is great) but in recent years they have upped their game with new tooling and equipment. I feel comfortable recommending Unicomps to newbies before they venture into vintage gear. Your key problems sound like stem seating and stabilizer problems. 2-piece key caps were IBM's standard for years, but Unicomp seems to be hesitantly moving back to 1-piece.

You stumbled into some of their corners of inadequacy by coincidence - the tooling for the original style Model Ms is probably their oldest and most in need of upgrading. The lock lights and various stickers for them are a quagmire of pain, especially coupled with the crude holes in the industrial cases. Why did they feel compelled to move the lights from their "classic" location? We are all scratching heads about that. And bright indicator lights are an abomination that a coat of paint will sometimes remedy.

Too late now, but I would have purchased the keyboard in its factory state and the industrial case and light sticker separately, to modify myself. I assume some Dremel work and maybe some epoxy build-up will be needed to make that area work properly, and that is why I have not yet swapped out one of my beige originals.

[Tribal]

They’re out of industrial cases, presumably permanently.  I just sold my spare one for about $120.  I wouldn’t suggest parting with yours.

Try putting some clear yellow plastic or tape to turn your blue LEDs green.  I’ve heard that desoldering might not be an option. 

Agreed that you overpaid for what you got.  There’s a German guy on eBay who sells controller boards.  I’d check with him to see if he has one that might work with your board - maybe you can get one for a 1391401 with a port for a detachable SDL cable.

[corrupt_penguin]

You stumbled into some of their corners of inadequacy by coincidence - the tooling for the original style Model Ms is probably their oldest and most in need of upgrading. The lock lights and various stickers for them are a quagmire of pain, especially coupled with the crude holes in the industrial cases. Why did they feel compelled to move the lights from their "classic" location? We are all scratching heads about that. And bright indicator lights are an abomination that a coat of paint will sometimes remedy.

Thank You SO much, "quagmire of pain" is exactly how I feel about it all! lol  )
I appreciate your entire post and the quoted part is the best, that truly made my day today. Thanks!

They’re out of industrial cases, presumably permanently.  I just sold my spare one for about $120. I wouldn’t suggest parting with yours.

Try putting some clear yellow plastic or tape to turn your blue LEDs green. 

Agreed that you overpaid for what you got.  There’s a German guy on eBay who sells controller boards.  I’d check with him to see if he has one that might work with your board - maybe you can get one for a 1391401 with a port for a detachable SDL cable.

I remember last year when I seen the cases for clearance sale I had the notion to buy all of them, hind sight is always 20/20. I want to say thanks for the tip about using the clear yellow plastic. I will check out the local craft stores and see what I can dig up, I can cut a narrow strip and lay that under the new black sticker and that might just do the trick. Failing that I will search out a custom logic board, I had found a link to a place where you could order up a custom one given a choice of option such as led color and either upper or lower led rows, might be the same guy you speak of. Thanks.

[corrupt_penguin]

Ya, I got my new key caps today and was so happy, but of course I am a bone head and I ordered grey keys and my keys are 'pebble'. 

Well good $30 experiment I suppose, now I get to do it again and get the correct color. Doh!  The new space bar did not fix the occasional skipped beat as it has already done it twice just writing these 2 sentences.
The space bar has a slight tilt to the left, the bar is under the clips and I lubed those up as well. It does not appear the wire clip locks in but just glides up and the little ramps,
so as far as I can tell everything is correct. I guess 80% accuracy is best I can hope for.

The black led sticker cover helped dampen the bright blue led's and took away some of the obvious someone drilled holes in the case look.

I was able to fix the + key on the 10 key. I installed a new stabilizer insert and gave it just a little plasti-lube and then laid it in place and then smacked it like it owed me money...
It paid up and now works as designed. Yay for small wins    Lol, I just checked the key and it doesn't work again! This keyboard needs a swift kick in the ass I swear.

[fohat.digs]

I ordered grey keys and my keys are 'pebble'

smacked it like it owed me money

People often miss the detail that original IBM key colors are pearl and pebble.

Stabilizer inserts are precise and there is no reason to ever use force on them. When removing them from a fully assembled board you need to be careful not to scratch or deform the inside cylindrical walls in any way. I use a paper clip with a tiny "J" bent in the end to just grab the lower lip. I would never lube them for fear that it would "freeze" the stem in place.

You have realized that there are 2 types of inserts, one for horizontals and another for verticals, and that there are right and wrong orientations for each. If you have the correct insert oriented the correct way, you can make *minute* adjustments using something like a wooden dowel gently inserted and gently rocked back and forth. You can only get a tiny fraction of a degree of correction that way, but it can sometimes be enough to help with binding.

[corrupt_penguin]

Hello fohat, thanks for responding and sorry for the late reply. I purchased a couple extra inserts when I ordered the additional keys. The insert was jammed in there really good so I had to use a wood screw to extract it. And ya, I checked and felt the scratchyness that was left over. Anyways, I tried the insert flipped 180 and the key would not even attempt to install so I flipped it around to it original orientation and the key did start working properly but only for a few key strokes before going dead with no click action. Unicomp only sells one style of insert so if there are horizontal and vertical styles then they must be only available on original M keyboards.

Regarding the 'lube' I used, it is called 'Plasti-Lube' made in Germany. It is actually for brake caliper sliding hardware so it remains its lubricity in a wide temperature range, will not gel or solidify. I is water resistant so it will not simply wash away and it has (I believe) 400+f* melt away. I have used it on all my poly and plastic bushings and sliders for years without issue so I feel comfortable using a very small amount in this case.

But here is the big thing I discovered, in the process of trying to figure out the delinquent key behavior I noticed when probing the buckling spring with a chop stick I can see flippers moving around alot, like sloppy alot. When viewing pictures of Model M's disassembled the flippers are supposed to be fitted quite snugly into the key tray. So a disassemble is in order to see how this 'Modern' Model M is constructed.

Moving forward I think my route is to keep working with this board and I only 3 weeks left on warranty so I will also be contacting Unicomp this coming week and discussing what can be done to make this right. The other direction I am considering is buying an original Model M for parts, especially getting the original green LED status bar, building a custom teensy controller board and adding a removable cable.

But first we need to crack this old girl open and see what Unicomp has been up to inside of it. I want see how the plates are constructed, are they plastic riveted like original or screwed together. I need to investigate they floppy flippers, etc..And order the right color keys since I messed up on the last order, doh!

Anyways that is the plan going forward....

People often miss the detail that original IBM key colors are pearl and pebble.

Stabilizer inserts are precise and there is no reason to ever use force on them. When removing them from a fully assembled board you need to be careful not to scratch or deform the inside cylindrical walls in any way. I use a paper clip with a tiny "J" bent in the end to just grab the lower lip. I would never lube them for fear that it would "freeze" the stem in place.

You have realized that there are 2 types of inserts, one for horizontals and another for verticals, and that there are right and wrong orientations for each. If you have the correct insert oriented the correct way, you can make *minute* adjustments using something like a wooden dowel gently inserted and gently rocked back and forth. You can only get a tiny fraction of a degree of correction that way, but it can sometimes be enough to help with binding.

[corrupt_penguin]

Well my fears have been confirmed, UniComp has horrible quality control. So I decided to pop open the casing today.

I was greeted with broken and cracked stand-offs and over a dozen broken rivets. This grey industrial case was one of a kind and to have
it broken like this is a sign of someone way over tightening the screws. Most likely when it was originally built and they pinched cable.
All the broken rivets confirm why I have found loose flippers and delinquent key behavior.

I am going to have to have a little conversation with Unicomp. I don't know whether to send this thing back, or have them replace the casing with a generic case and get my money back for the one of kind grey case.

Should have just bought the keyboard and the case separate and built it myself, you know the old saying if you want a job done right you got to do it yourself.

I will keep you updated on how my conversation goes with them, in the meantime, think twice about buying a keyboard from them.

From there website "To compete successfully against products made in Asia, we must focus on producing the highest quality products at the lowest possible cost while providing the highest level of customer service."

"highest quality products at the lowest possible cost"  Not sure when oil and water started mixing or cows started flying over the moon, but high quality and lowest cost DO NOT go together at all, that is a terrible mission statement.

[fohat.digs]

Unicomp only sells one style of insert

when probing the buckling spring with a chop stick I can see flippers moving around alot, like sloppy alot

There are indeed 2 inserts, but Unicomp is not particularly good at salesmanship.

Broken rivets in a cluster will always cause a "soft spot" and that is why a lot of us consider a bolt mod to be "de rigueur" for a Model M that is intended to be used or kept.

You should probably send the gear back for replacement.

[corrupt_penguin]

I stand corrected, I did see they had 2 different colors and thought it was odd since no one would see them.
Thanks for showing me what I totally failed to see. Still new to the model M game and I am getting schooled, lol

In regards to getting a replacement, I am only going to get yet another keyboard that is only going to come apart again and they are not going to be able to replace this grey case.
To be honest, I am not sure Unicomp is going to be willing to do anything at the moment. They are having supply issues and are backed up around 2 months for new builds. Do I want to send in my keyboard into a chaotic situation only to get a rushed repair job? I mean they couldn't even get it right on a fresh build when they weren't having supply and backlog issues.

I might as well just epoxy repair my case and bolt mod the board, maybe Unicomp will refund a partial credit for my hassles.

Unicomp only sells one style of insert

when probing the buckling spring with a chop stick I can see flippers moving around alot, like sloppy alot

There are indeed 2 inserts, but Unicomp is not particularly good at salesmanship.

Broken rivets in a cluster will always cause a "soft spot" and that is why a lot of us consider a bolt mod to be "de rigueur" for a Model M that is intended to be used or kept.

You should probably send the gear back for replacement.

[fohat.digs]

thought it was odd since no one would see them.

In the old days IBM made them in random colors.
Look at how they are oriented, the vertical ones are off-center.

[corrupt_penguin]

In light of a resolution to the issue I am removing my unfavorable comments directed at Unicomp, although nothing more then posting a support response that I was not in agreement with.

[fohat.digs]

I am a tinkerer by nature, and I would have bought the parts standard and voided the warranty deliberately.

[corrupt_penguin]

I am a tinkerer by nature, and I would have bought the parts standard and voided the warranty deliberately.

Haha, love that video! That about sums up how this all went down LOL

Live and learn as they say. I am never really one to worry about warraties as they typically don't do much for you in the end as is the case here.

So I will report I have come to a final resolution to the issue with Unicomp. We have agreed that the broken rivet welds are normal acceptable wear and tear and the broken/cracked stand off's are an unfortunate manufacturing error that no one could foresee. Thus both issues are not considered a warranty issue. Now out of good faith on the part of Unicomp they have agreed to send me a standard replacement 101 key casing.

This will close the support issue and everyone walks away with integrity intact. I will say nothing more of the issue.

Going forward I will take it upon myself to repair this grey industrial casing and since my warranty is now considered expired, I am free to embark upon my first model M 'bolt mod'.

The End,
Robert

[fohat.digs]

my first model M 'bolt mod'.

Modders are frustrated that M2 machine screws are not found at the hardware store. But they are best, and if you use a 1/16" drill bit it works great.

[ander]

So last year I was really feeling nostalgic and felt like I needed a good old fashioned IBM keyboard. After shopping around on Ebay and seeing the outrageous prices and all the hassles of converting cables I knew I did not want to go that route. Although I did find this (what I thought) to be awesome company called Unicomp...

Dude: Sorry you were disappointed with your purchase. If you'd hung out with us a bit and asked a few questions, we would've been glad to explain how, while Unicomp is an entirely well-meaning bunch of peeps, what they make is not like an IBM or Lexmark Model M from the '80s–'90s.

The good news is, if your Unicomp continues to displease you, unrestored standard 1990s Model M's (p/n 1391401) can still be had on eBay for only ~ $100. If you buy from someone with a good reputation—and, on purchase, message them to be sure they pack it properly, in full-size bubble wrap in a sturdy box—the odds are greatly in your favour that all it'll need is cleaning to look and operate practically like it just came off the assembly line.

Personally, I think you should do that anyway, so you can have one of each. Although a Unicomp's build will never equal that of the originals*, I personally find it delightful to cycle through the various buckling-spring incarnations (Model F, '80s–'90s Model M, Unicomp), because they're all variations on something that's basically wonderful. What's more, though Unicomps' builds are so lighter, they have a much different feel and sound, which is not at all unpleasant. And they help you appreciate the older keebs' rock-solidness again, once you've gotten used to it. It's all good, IMHO.

Well, good luck with everything. Cheers, A.

* This said, I haven't tried one of their "New Model M" products, which they claim is much more in line with vintage M specs (though at best, I imagine that'd mean a 1995 Lexmark-made M, for example). If you were looking for a newly minted keeb as similar as possible to an original M, one of those may have been your best bet.

[Maledicted]

* This said, I haven't tried one of their "New Model M" products, which they claim is much more in line with vintage M specs (though at best, I imagine that'd mean a 1995 Lexmark-made M, for example). If you were looking for a newly minted keeb as similar as possible to an original M, one of those may have been your best bet.

I have a Mini M, but that's my only Unicomp so I have nothing to compare it to other than OG 80s IBM. Definitely not as beefy as a metal badge M, but it really doesn't need to be either. Casing is thin, feels cheap and light. It probably is. No QC issues to speak of that I could find, but I'm not picky either. I like the character of yellowed ABS, etc.

[ander]

I am a tinkerer by nature, and I would have bought the parts standard and voided the warranty deliberately...

I've long held this image of you going around violating things. 

I have a Mini M, but that's my only Unicomp so I have nothing to compare it to other than OG 80s IBM. Definitely not as beefy as a metal badge M, but it really doesn't need to be either. Casing is thin, feels cheap and light...

You've got to give the Unicomp guys some credit, too. As you may know, they were working at the Lexmark plant when it was going to be closed down (as the world had become flooded with cheap dome and membrane boards), and they didn't want to see the "greatest ever" keyboard fade away into history.

So they banded together, bought the place, and figured out how to keep making real BS boards for under $100. (IBM and Lexmark boards cost 2–3 times as much.) Naturally, they had to lighten the build. But it's pretty remarkable still being able to buy a new BS board in 2022, even if it's not as tank-like as a six-pound '90s Model M. Many of us feel that both versions are good, just different.

[Maledicted]

You've got to give the Unicomp guys some credit, too. As you may know, they were working at the Lexmark plant when it was going to be closed down (as the world had become flooded with cheap dome and membrane boards), and they didn't want to see the "greatest ever" keyboard fade away into history.

Yes, I know Unicomp's fabled history. That's part of the reason I wanted to buy at least one board directly from them, even if I don't particularly like membrane buckling spring. I figured I might as well wait for the Mini M to get something relatively practical if I wanted to give those guys some support. The rest was mostly just to compare the sound and feel to the OG boards, since the rubber mat material is different.

Speaking of storied history, there's a more recent thread on Deskthority where they had managed to summon the designer of capacitive buckling spring and were very kindly interrogating him. I haven't lurked on it recently, but there's some fascinating reading there.