How should I replace the switches?

[Vozella]

I want a Corsair K65 RGB, but I don't want red switches.
I have a couple solutions.

One thing I could do is not desolder the switches at all and replace the piece inside the switch with a MX Clear piece but keep the rest including the spring, making it a lighter Clear switch.

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Another thing I could do is desolder the red switches and solder purple zealio switches.

Which option do you think is better?

I also have another question. Will it be possible to replace the switches even though they have LEDs on them?

[user 18]

It is possible to replace switches that have a LED in the switch, but you need to desolder the LED before either opening or desoldering the switch.

The k65 RGB will not allow you to open the switches without desoldering, as the switches are plate mounted and there is not enough space for the switches to unlatch without removing them from the plate. The RBG LEDs in this board are also mounted differently than normal LEDs in cherry switches -- rather than having the LED mounted through the switch, the RGB LEDs are soldered on the PCB below the switch, and as far as I know, are not attached to the switch at all.

As I said in your other thread, I'm not sure you will be happy with the results of making ergo clears with springs from MX reds, as occasionally the spring fails to return the clear slider to the original position, leading to a key being stuck down.

Note that the design of the RGB switch housing is different from a regular MX compatible housing, to diffuse the surface mount LED through the housing. If you replace the RGB switches with standard MX switches, even if they appear to have clear housings like the zealios, you may run into issues with the lighting.

If you want to keep the RGB, and have an ergo clear-like feeling, I would surmise that your best bet is to buy purple zealios (or MX clears and 62g springs), and switch the internals (spring and stem) into the RGB housing.

[Vozella]

It is possible to replace switches that have a LED in the switch, but you need to desolder the LED before either opening or desoldering the switch.

The k65 RGB will not allow you to open the switches without desoldering, as the switches are plate mounted and there is not enough space for the switches to unlatch without removing them from the plate. The RBG LEDs in this board are also mounted differently than normal LEDs in cherry switches -- rather than having the LED mounted through the switch, the RGB LEDs are soldered on the PCB below the switch, and as far as I know, are not attached to the switch at all.

As I said in your other thread, I'm not sure you will be happy with the results of making ergo clears with springs from MX reds, as occasionally the spring fails to return the clear slider to the original position, leading to a key being stuck down.

Note that the design of the RGB switch housing is different from a regular MX compatible housing, to diffuse the surface mount LED through the housing. If you replace the RGB switches with standard MX switches, even if they appear to have clear housings like the zealios, you may run into issues with the lighting.

If you want to keep the RGB, and have an ergo clear-like feeling, I would surmise that your best bet is to buy purple zealios (or MX clears and 62g springs), and switch the internals (spring and stem) into the RGB housing.

Sounds like a good idea. Thank you.

[Vozella]

As I said in your other thread, I'm not sure you will be happy with the results of making ergo clears with springs from MX reds, as occasionally the spring fails to return the clear slider to the original position, leading to a key being stuck down.

I'm confused about this. I tried this myself, putting a brown switch spring in a clear switch, and I've had no problems with that one switch. Is there proof that what you say is true?

[user 18]

As I said in your other thread, I'm not sure you will be happy with the results of making ergo clears with springs from MX reds, as occasionally the spring fails to return the clear slider to the original position, leading to a key being stuck down.

I'm confused about this. I tried this myself, putting a brown switch spring in a clear switch, and I've had no problems with that one switch. Is there proof that what you say is true?

I don't know that there's any rigorous proof out there. I can say anecdotally that it's happened to me with springs from MX blue. Now, not every combination of spring and stem will stick, and it may not happen every time you press the switch, but it has been known to happen.

Something else you may experience, rather than having a switch be stuck entirely down, is that it simply feels less responsive on the return stroke, almost like the switch is gummy.

There's a bit of information in this old thread. Again, nothing rigorous, but personal experience.

[Vozella]

As I said in your other thread, I'm not sure you will be happy with the results of making ergo clears with springs from MX reds, as occasionally the spring fails to return the clear slider to the original position, leading to a key being stuck down.

I'm confused about this. I tried this myself, putting a brown switch spring in a clear switch, and I've had no problems with that one switch. Is there proof that what you say is true?

I don't know that there's any rigorous proof out there. I can say anecdotally that it's happened to me with springs from MX blue. Now, not every combination of spring and stem will stick, and it may not happen every time you press the switch, but it has been known to happen.

Something else you may experience, rather than having a switch be stuck entirely down, is that it simply feels less responsive on the return stroke, almost like the switch is gummy.

There's a bit of information in this old thread. Again, nothing rigorous, but personal experience.

Oh. I can feel the gumminess you're talking about. I wonder why that is. Thanks again.

[Oobly]

Personally, I think it's a lot of work for a sub-standard result. The Corsair has a non-standard layout and the software is overly complicated (and needed in order to program the RGB backlighting). You'd have to reuse at least the bottom casings from the RGB switches, since Zealio bottom casings don't support PCB-mounted LEDs. The Zealio top casings will probably fit, though.

I'd rather start with a board that has a standard layout, so you can fully customise it with aftermarket caps, maybe a Keycool RGB. They have 4-pin RGB LED's and Zealio cases are designed to support these, so you can replace the entire Kailh switch with the Zealios.

[ideus]

Personally, I think it's a lot of work for a sub-standard result. The Corsair has a non-standard layout and the software is overly complicated (and needed in order to program the RGB backlighting). You'd have to reuse at least the bottom casings from the RGB switches, since Zealio bottom casings don't support PCB-mounted LEDs. The Zealio top casings will probably fit, though.

I'd rather start with a board that has a standard layout, so you can fully customise it with aftermarket caps, maybe a Keycool RGB. They have 4-pin RGB LED's and Zealio cases are designed to support these, so you can replace the entire Kailh switch with the Zealios.

Congrats on your 4k:

[Oobly]

Personally, I think it's a lot of work for a sub-standard result. The Corsair has a non-standard layout and the software is overly complicated (and needed in order to program the RGB backlighting). You'd have to reuse at least the bottom casings from the RGB switches, since Zealio bottom casings don't support PCB-mounted LEDs. The Zealio top casings will probably fit, though.

I'd rather start with a board that has a standard layout, so you can fully customise it with aftermarket caps, maybe a Keycool RGB. They have 4-pin RGB LED's and Zealio cases are designed to support these, so you can replace the entire Kailh switch with the Zealios.

Congrats on your 4k:

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Thanks! :D

I realised this morning that I hit it, but didn't notice which post it was. You're on a nice round number yourself right now, too :) 4700