Newbies build

[Melvang]

I think you guys might have created a monster here.  I am thinking now that I want to build my own board.  Just a couple problems with this.  First and foremost, I have zero idea where to start looking.  Plus on top of that I have almost no experiance with a soldering iron, and zero experiance on electronics.

Now where do I start with this, do you guys have a sticky for building a board or is it pretty self explanatory?

And what, if any, are the differences between Cherry MX and Alps switches?

A couple things I know I want is an aluminum shell and tenkeyless?  And what is the difference between regular tenkeyless compact?

I think this is all the questions i can come up with right now.

[rowdy]

Have a look through making stuff together.

In particular anything relating tothe GH60 keyboard.

And ask questions - lotsa people here are ready and willing to help

[Internetlad]

The Rosewill boards are on sale at Newegg. They've got mixed reviews but if you're in the market for a cheap MX board (especially MX Blacks) check it out.

http://www.newegg.com/Keyboards/BrandSubCat/ID-2177-63?nm_mc=EMC-IGNEFL020813&cm_mmc=EMC-IGNEFL020813-_-EMC-020813-Index-_-Keyboard-_-LCWA

20% off coupon code is EMCXVWV234

But, in my opinion, the place where most newbies should start is with a buckling springs board. You can get a used (but tanklike and fully functional) Model M board for ~40 bucks on eBay, or a brand new Unicomp board for 80-100 bucks from www.pckeyboard.com It's a solid jumping point and will probably last you and your children's children well into it's golden years.

I used to think really highly of white ALPS until I swapped a BS board for a white ALPS board as my daily driver, now they feel stiff and fairly uncomfortable (Bear in mind that i've been using MX Blacks and BS boards, both of which feel much smoother to me.)

Do we still have a wiki on switches? I know it all got purged in the updates. I'll check.

EDIT: nope, looks like the wiki has no info on switches now. I'll link you with the article I read that started it for me.

http://www.tomshardware.com/reviews/mechanical-switch-keyboard,2955.html

It's dated, but it has a list of some of the more popular switches and GIFs of what they look like in action. fancy.

[fohat.digs]

I recommend that you start with "chop jobs" on existing boards - cutting a board in half to make an ergo or making an ersatz Model M SSK out of a regular model.

That will keep you busy for several hours, produce a viable end product, and give you a feel for how these creatures are put together.

Or, changing out and upgrading switches - making an ergo clear board, for example.

[Melvang]

First off I would like to apologize for putting this in the wrong thread.  I was at work and started this thread on my phone and on that screen the section titles at the top of the page are impossible to read.  Feel free to move this to a more appropriate area of the fourms. 

Well I have done some digging online and I know which layout I would like to use.  I would like to use a TKLs board but keep the standard cursor and the other block of keys above it.  Don't care one way or the other about the function keys but if I could find one that omitted them that would be slightly preferred due to the different factor.  Any suggestions on what is available for me in is layout.  I would like to go with Ergo Clears for this build as well.

Also a little extra room in the case for some under key back lighting would be awesome.  Was planning on using blank key caps and just the edge glow around the keys is all I need to keep me where I need to be when bouncing between the keyboard and my Nostromo.  For the back lighting I would like to add it myself as I have some ideas floating in my head on how to aesthetically get the power to it.  And to an orbweaver if i get it.  Which will be getting blank keycaps as well.  Mostly cause all the rest of the lighting in my computer is blue and the orbweaver is only offered in green.  On a side know with that does anyone know if you can send enough power through a 1/8 inch or 1/4 inch headphone plug to power the required lighting for a keyboard?

Melvang

Edit: now where did i see that solder and de-solder guide link at?

[fohat.digs]

Always love these:

http://blog.qsource.com/2012/06/smt-soldering-comic-book-makes.html

I have found that a good USB connection delivers a solid jolt of power.

[Internetlad]

lol sorry about my earlier post, I had skimmed it and missed the point entirely.

[Melvang]

Not a problem there Internetlad.

Does anyone know of a keyboard layout that gets rid of just the ten key and the F keys, but still includes the cursor and the insert block?  And when you guys say a programmable board does that basically mean remapping the keyboard at the hardware level so that the OS never even sees the default keystroke?  If so i think that would fix my issues with remapping the insert block the function as media keys.

Well told my wife I wasn't going to be getting the orbweaver anytime soon but I wanted to build my own keyboard.  She just rolled her eyes and walked away.

Melvang

[regack]

Not a problem there Internetlad.

Does anyone know of a keyboard layout that gets rid of just the ten key and the F keys, but still includes the cursor and the insert block?  And when you guys say a programmable board does that basically mean remapping the keyboard at the hardware level so that the OS never even sees the default keystroke?  If so i think that would fix my issues with remapping the insert block the function as media keys.

I think most people when they say programmable means that you customize the keyboard layout in hardware/firmware, so it does what you're saying. 

So I used the layout from a KBT Pure and tacked on the other keys... is this what you're thinking?  I don't think anything like this exists, but I'm still new and have much to see .  It is an interesting idea...

[Melvang]

That is almost exactly what i was looking for with the exception of the "R" keys

[regack]

That is almost exactly what i was looking for with the exception of the "R" keys

Oh, sorry, those are just for my reference, a legend to distinguish different key profiles for different rows... but apparently, different keycap manufacturers label the rows differently, which makes it fun.  It is difficult, for example, to locate that blue 1.75 width Shift key in the correct profile for the row it is in.

Have you considered something like the KBT Race which has a Function Row and some of those keys, but in a condensed layout?  It's not programmable, but if that form sounds interesting, then this thread might be of some interest to you.

[Melvang]

So how did you tack on the extra keys and what did you use for a case?

[regack]

So how did you tack on the extra keys and what did you use for a case?

Sorry to get your hopes up, but it's only a paper design.  Never built anything like that, but wanted to make sure I was understanding what you were asking.

[Strelok]

I'm doing the same as you. I suggest to start by buying a keyboard in the form factor that you want.
Tenkeyless is only missing the number pad. 75% boards are missing the clusters on the right of a tenkeyless. 60% boards are missing the Fn keys as well. Many of these boards have the funtionality of a larger sized board within the Fn layer.

I bought a KBT Pure because pf the size and I prefer the Fn layer to the KBT Poker, although the Poker has a plate, which I overlooked, but don't regret.

Add/replace pieces as you can, but make sure you like the switches. I bought Blacks because they were readily available and while I like the heavy weight I wish it was clicky, so I'm searching for greens.

I suggest that while you're waiting for the perfect group buys and classifieds to pop up, you get some soldering experience. It's difficult to destroy something completely as a novice solderer, but it's also difficult to do a nice clean job and not horribly disfigure the PCB.

Good luck.

[Melvang]

Alright sounds good.  How about this idea.  Take a TKL board and case but order a case without the holes for the F key.  That way in the future if you decide that you want the Fkeys back all that needs to be done is get the holes cut into the top half of the case.

[Melvang]

Alright i guess the question on this train of thought is: does anyone here make custom aluminum cases for a TKL board that would be willing to not cut out the F keys? 

[Melvang]

I should probably specify the form factor I am looking to do this starting with a 75% board.  The main reasons I have for starting with this form factor is that I would think it would be a tons easier to just use the same PCB and case and just get the upper half without the F key holes cut into it than trying to add the other keys but keep the same layout as a 75%.  Plus you I will have that area above the number keys for some additions I would like to add.

Melvang

PS About how much should I be expecting to spend on this project.  I realize that this is still fairly open ended but just wondering on a rough ball park idea.  If it makes a difference i am considering Ergo-Clear switches