My custom unique looking "Rapture" keyboard build log

[dj027x]

Well, it was requested I show the etching process, however, I decided to mill the pcb instead of etch it, as that will result in a much cleaner result. I did however need to etch a tiny board to controll a power supply for the milling machine, so I just posted a couple pictures here: http://imgur.com/gallery/sHXoJ

[AGmurdercore]

I just came in to say that i am really inspired by your work! Please finish this up and make as many guides as possible because i want to make on RGB board as well now lol

[dj027x]

I just came in to say that i am really inspired by your work! Please finish this up and make as many guides as possible because i want to make on RGB board as well now lol

Will do! I intend to document the build process very well. Lots of pics and explanations. At the moment, I'm waiting on a front plate to arrive that will hold all of the switches. Then I just have to mill the pcb and case, then assemble! PCB design is also pretty close to being finished

[AGmurdercore]

I just came in to say that i am really inspired by your work! Please finish this up and make as many guides as possible because i want to make on RGB board as well now lol

Will do! I intend to document the build process very well. Lots of pics and explanations. At the moment, I'm waiting on a front plate to arrive that will hold all of the switches. Then I just have to mill the pcb and case, then assemble! PCB design is also pretty close to being finished

Glad to hear that you are progressing so well! Good luick i will keep and eye on this

[dj027x]

The new 2-PCB solution design is coming along nicely. Having 2 PCBs instead of one is inevitable on this board, since there is not space on the board to hold the teensy and decoder. Even though I got some ribbon cables and sockets, I have opted to simply use some strategically placed posts to act as interconnects between the boards, as there isn't even room on the board for the ZIF socket, plus trace management is a lot easier using interconnecting posts. If I can manage to do so without sacrificing overall thickness, I will use sockets to allow the 2 boards to come apart. This would be ideal because it would allow the board to be serviced if anything broke. With 2 PCBs, the total thickness of the board is projected to be 32mm to 36mm; still thinner than the Poker 2! Now that I'm doing a two board design, I really need to think about the physical construction process of it all. Components will need to be soldered in a specific order, and pads need to be on specific sides of the board, since the board is not through-hole plated. Because of this, I had to significantly redesign the switch matrix, however I am very close to the final solution. Here is the current standard cell:

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As Iv'e said before, as soon as the top plate and remaining X-Carve components arrive, this project should wrap up quickly. The board designs should be done by the time they arrive, so it will just be a matter of milling the board, applying soldermask, soldering/assembling, and loading a simple firmware to the teensy. I'll also mill the case once the rest of it is assembled.

[dj027x]

Another little update to the standard cell. I rearranged things so that there will be unoccupied space between the corners of every key.

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<---Free space!

This will make inter-board routing super easy, and allow 5 support posts to be installed. X-Carve components are arriving tomorrow =D

[dj027x]

Welp, the x-carve is assembled and functional! Also, my grid top plate finally came in! Here is a comparison between my sidewinder, and rapture:

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Additionally, the top PCB design is complete!:

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Furthermore, I ordered one more 4 to 16 decoder; I have decided to add a relatively unusual feature to this keyboard; if I use this decoder, I will end up with 9 unused pins on the teensy. I have decided to route these to headers on the side of the board, meaning this keyboard will have 9 GPIO pins, plus gnd and power! I have considered exposing the lines for all other pins as well, although I'd have to urge caution in daing anything with them beside reading output, as they are vital to the proper operation of the keyboard.
'Why would I want my keyboard to have GPIO pins?' you might ask. Well, if you don't use them, they will be nicely concealed by the case, and you won't even notice them. If you are adventurous however, you can wire up your own peripherals to communicate with the keyboard! Devices that interface via USB, I2C, JTAG, what have you, all can be hooked up, provided proper protocols are installed on the teensy. I will make as many of these pins as I can the teensy's analogue pins as well, so you can interface with analogue and digital devices.
So yea, there is going to be another delay while I wait for that part to arrive, however once that gets here, no obstacle other than the firmware stands in the way of having a working unit. The last step will be that case to enclose everything. And, we're still geared to end up smaller than the poker 2!

[dj027x]

Well, I realized that ExpressPCB is a ****ty, locked down, proprietary piece of **** that does not allow you to export a gerber file of your design. So, spent the past 2 days converting my top board into a KiCAD project! I found some good models and footprints for the switches, and with pcbnew I am able to render for all to see, an exciting preview of the final thing:

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I am currently just tweaking my toolchain in terms of design > gerber files > g-code, and designing the 2nd pcb. Going to do a test print with some scrap PCB soon to test how the components fit (Over 500 pins so far!).

[dj027x]

Attempting to do a test print revealed that the program pcb2gcode outputs gcode that grbl does not understand this breaks my toolchain, as I need to convert the drill files from kicad or eagle into gcode files to mill the holes. I have searched endlessly, and found no linux software to do this that isn't miserably out-of-date. LinuxCNC is an option, however that is basically its own distro, and also pretty dated. Luckily, every other part of the toolchain works, and this drill-to-gcode conversion is a relatively simple operation; just a matter of parsing and creating text files. So, I am writing a bash script to take care of this issue (sure would be nice to have my keyboard done to write it with). The script should be done by tomorrow, and I should have a test print sometime this week. Anyway, heres a picture of what the results will be once I get this conversion issue sorted out

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[lucaslink]

stoked on this build!

[dj027x]

Welp, I finished the script! Now I can take an Excellon drill file,  accounting for the offset caused by the diameter of the endmill, and convert it into the appropriate g-code which will mill all of the holes using a ramped helix, instead of just plunging the endmill into the material. If anyone cares to use the script or contribute to it, it's on github: https://github.com/DJ027X/drl2ngc
Now then, enough Linux/CNC stuff, this is a keyboard forum; I should have a test run of the PCB done in a couple days, and I'll be sure to post pics when it's done.
If the results look good, I will wrap up the bottom PCB design and begin milling, soldermasking, and tinning!

[dj027x]

Just a quick update; I'm almost done with the 2nd pcb design, and I've decided to do the test print right before the full print so as to keep variables like machine settings, temp fluctuations, etc, as constant as possible between test printing and production printing. I started this blog on jan 13 this year. By the looks of it, this board should be done before jan 13 of next year! Just one year of what probably amounted to a couple hundred hours of designing/engineering to produce a one of a kind keyboard from scratch! I'll bet that's better than some actual keyboard companies can do, and they have full teams of designers!

[Hexterdude]

On the aesthetics part of the keyboard have you decided if you're going to design a rapture themed keyset or case for it?

[dj027x]

I am just going with a plain black case, and plains black windowed keys. I'm still considering etching a bioshock quote on the keycaps, but haven't decided yet.

[spfft]

So pumped to see this!

[dj027x]

Well, you shouldn't have to wait long. Just a little more fiddling with the pcb design and I'll mill it out and assemble! After that, I still need to make the case and load the firmware onto it.

[dj027x]

Well, I'm going to renege my promise to put GPIO ports on this board. After some thought, I decided that there would really be no benefit to using GPIOs from this board considering the amount of processor power the teensy is already going to be devoting to operating the keyboard. Plus, the layout of the 2nd board is already a nightmare. Routing the unused pins to the edge of the board would take a lot more time than I really think it would be worth. Beside, you can always use the USB cable to talk with other devices. In any case, the designs for both PCBs are complete for the most part; I'm just going to run through verification to ensure that everything is connected properly and that it will be possible to physically construct everything. Here's a quick screenshot of both boards.

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After I verify that the designs are valid, it'll be time to mill them out, apply soldermask, tin plate, and assemble! Then I'll load a quick proof of concept firmware onto the teensy before fleshing my own out. Simultaneously, I'll be designing the case that it'll all fit into. Like the very first concept image I posted on this thread, I'm going to try to keep it very sleek and simple. I'll update again once I begin the PCB fabrication process.

Edit: By the way, if anybody knows of some basic circuit routing techniques, I'd love to hear them! This thing was a pain in the ass to route. I figured I'd make all vertical traces on one layer, and all horizontal layers on another layer, but limited space, and number of connections made that unfeasible.

[dj027x]

Verification is all done! I found a couple major errors, and fixed them up, and verified that all the connections exist that must exist, and that they all go to the right place, both PCBs align properly, and the design will by feasible to physically construct (no solder joints between the sandwiched PCBs) Here's a picture of the final design. If you'd like the files, pm me and I'll send them to you, otherwise, I will throw them up on github once this project is all done.

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Now, I need to convert the gerber files to gcode (should be done within the day) and I can prepare to mill out the boards!

[spfft]

This is so great! Making me really want to attempt something similar on my own. With Topre.

[dj027x]

This is so great! Making me really want to attempt something similar on my own. With Topre.

Ooh, that would be challenging, as topre keys are not self-contained units. You'd need a mesh and custom moulded frame to make it work. Not impossible if you've got a CNC mill though!

[dj027x]

Well, I have begun running some test prints just to make sure everything is dialled in properly, and that I will be able to manufacture the difficult bits just fine. For anybody who cares to know, I'm using PCB engraving bits to mill the traces, and PCB drill bits for the vias and small stabilizing legs on the keyswitches (links for these items are at the end of this post). I found out the hard way (after breaking 3 bits) that the PCB drills are strictly drills, not endmills (they were advertised to me as endmills). They will not make lateral cuts, which became clear to me only after I inspected the bits to find that their teeth were not properly shaped to make lateral cuts, only plunge. I have not yet decided what to use to mill the hole for the large center peg on the keyswitches, however that update will be coming next. For now, I just waned to show you some PCB porn; I was testing to see if the engraving bit would be able to cleanly cut the tiniest parts of the board, which it most certainly was.

First, here is the difference spindle speed makes. The left part was cut with the spindle running at roughly 1/4 speed (not sure what the actual RPM were, but it was at 25% duty cycle at 48V). The right part (where the cut is much cleaner) was done at full speed

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So we can make clean cuts, time to test fidelity with my fingerprint for scale.

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Hot damn that's a clean cut! I used a wire brush to clean most of the dust out of the trench. I'd probably be better off even going a bit more shallow than this. By the way, if you're doing this DON'T BREATHE THE DUST. Breathing in fiberglass dust is a sure way to get pneumonia. Now, the fidelity is good, but are the cuts accurately aligned?

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They sure are! Looks like the bottom PCB is fab-ready! I'll mill it out shortly after I run some tests pertaining to the top PCB. I also came up with a strategy to align top and bottom sides when I mill them out, but I neglect to show pictures for that. Essentially, I just put a bounding box around all of the designs with a hole in each corner. This way, I can make sure all the holes line up before each print. That's all for now. I'll update with test results for the top board soon, then it's production time! I'll just leave you with a couple more PCB pics.

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engraving bits: http://www.amazon.com/Autek-Titanium-Carbide-Engraving-J3-3001Tix10/dp/B00HC98K2C/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1448229038&sr=8-2&keywords=pcb+engraving
drill bits: http://www.amazon.com/10Pcs-Print-Circuit-Board-Carbide/dp/B00IMXHXGG/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1448229138&sr=8-3&keywords=PCB+milling+bits

[dj027x]

Boy, things are moving right along; I have finished testing all that I care to test as far as the top PCB is concerned; I made a little test bed consisting of 2 switches and one diode. I loaded up a pattern that milled one hole in each corner, for alignment between runs. First, I milled all of the vias, then the traces, then the holes for the legs on the switch using a fishtailed burr which was really loud, (didn't bother milling the backside traces), sanded away any burrs, and tried to fit a switch in, however my super tight tolerances, along with a tad of misalignment didn't allow the switch to fit. I widened the hole a bit by running the burr around it again, and everything fit together nicely. Here are the pics. I intend to mill the bottom PCB within the week, once perfect my soldermask application method.

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[dj027x]

Happy thanksgiving everybody! I'll be milling out the bottom pcb today. Instead of milling out all of the holes for the legs on each switch, I have decide to just buy the proper size drill bits, and drill them out. Drilling will be MUCH faster and quieter than milling the holes. So, I'm off to my hardware store (hope they're open today) to pick up some drill bits, then I'll soldermask an tin the board. See ya soon.

[neverused]

Happy thanksgiving everybody! I'll be milling out the bottom pcb today. Instead of milling out all of the holes for the legs on each switch, I have decide to just buy the proper size drill bits, and drill them out. Drilling will be MUCH faster and quieter than milling the holes. So, I'm off to my hardware store (hope they're open today) to pick up some drill bits, then I'll soldermask an tin the board. See ya soon.

Can't wait to see your results!

[dj027x]

hardware store was closed yesterday, and I discovered today that they didn't have what I was looking for. Looks like I'm ordering the proper sizes from amazon. :/

[dj027x]

Some unfortunate news: I'm pretty much stuck at the moment. I need either a set of drill bits with a 1/4 or 1/8" shank, or an adjustable chuck that fits where an ER11-A collet usually fits. As far as I know, neither of those things exist. I *could* mill out the holes, but there are 184 holes, and milling them is extremely loud. So, I can't mill out these holes while I'm still in my apartment, however I will be moving back into my house early january. Unfortunately, it looks like this project may be put on hold until then, unless I can find a proper set of drill bits, or an adjustable collet. Either way, rest assured that this project will definitely be completed in either January or February at the latest.

[jaffers]

'ed

But if you are having trouble clamping? smaller drill bits than you want to get a collet. stick it in the chuck and stick your drill bit in there. You should be right as rain. Great work so far on the build man, interesting design

[dj027x]

And now for some good news: I ordered a set of collets of various sizes both metric and imperial. The imperial set should get here monday, so I can resume milling the PCBs! I was scared I was going to have to put this project off for a month haha. The collets were roughly $20 a set, however they should last a lifetime, plus they allow me to use nearly any diameter drill bit or endmill I want, so I'm no longer restricted to bits with a 1/8" or 1/4" shank. Man, I've probably put almost $2000 into equipment for build these boards haha. In any case, the BOM cost for one keyboard should be a tad under $200, if my dead reckoning is accurate. I'll have more updates monday!

[lucaslink]

And now for some good news: I ordered a set of collets of various sizes both metric and imperial. The imperial set should get here monday, so I can resume milling the PCBs! I was scared I was going to have to put this project off for a month haha. The collets were roughly $20 a set, however they should last a lifetime, plus they allow me to use nearly any diameter drill bit or endmill I want, so I'm no longer restricted to bits with a 1/8" or 1/4" shank. Man, I've probably put almost $2000 into equipment for build these boards haha. In any case, the BOM cost for one keyboard should be a tad under $200, if my dead reckoning is accurate. I'll have more updates monday!

yay! I was going to offer to mail you my collets for use to get the project done. i have a bunch of various sizes.

[dj027x]

Man, Sorry for the lack of updates; I had to move from Minnesota to New York last month. But, I'm all set up and ready to continue the build! All of my collets and drill bits are here, so It's time to begin milling the main boards!

[ZefyrPyon]

Boy, things are moving right along; I have finished testing all that I care to test as far as the top PCB is concerned; I made a little test bed consisting of 2 switches and one diode. I loaded up a pattern that milled one hole in each corner, for alignment between runs. First, I milled all of the vias, then the traces, then the holes for the legs on the switch using a fishtailed burr which was really loud, (didn't bother milling the backside traces), sanded away any burrs, and tried to fit a switch in, however my super tight tolerances, along with a tad of misalignment didn't allow the switch to fit. I widened the hole a bit by running the burr around it again, and everything fit together nicely. Here are the pics. I intend to mill the bottom PCB within the week, once perfect my soldermask application method.

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Are you able to edit the PCB to accommodate a TKL and 100% design? I would KILL to find a DIY RGB keyboard alternative, but all the software out there is crapola.

[dj027x]

Unfortunately, there would be hardware limitations that would make that change difficult. I chose all of my hardware to be only as powerful as it needs to be for this particular design. It should be possible though. I mean, the there are already 100% RGB boards out there; I was just looking for something far more personalized, and compact

[ZefyrPyon]

To be honest, anyone can really pick up an iron and learn to solder, but I just don't have enough electrical knowledge to make my own PCB. Do you have any recommendations for me?

[dj027x]

To be honest, anyone can really pick up an iron and learn to solder, but I just don't have enough electrical knowledge to make my own PCB. Do you have any recommendations for me?

Well, no doubt, there is a lot of knowledge that goes into PCB design, but it is all pretty easy to understand. My knowledge of electronics has come from a mix of personal and academic experiences. I learn the theory from college courses, and I implement that knowledge in a practical way in personal projects. Before college, I tried very hard to teach myself electronics, but didn't really get anywhere. A professor is simply a far more powerful resource than a book or youtube video because professors often have industry experience; they know both the theory and practical applications of electronics. That being said, the next best thing to a college course is a college textbook (which I never attempted to use while teaching myself, so it may work very well). They are usually $50 to $150, however you should be able to find torrents for them if they're over 1yr old. The textbook I used in college (which I find to be rather well constructed) is introductory circuit analysis http://www.amazon.com/Introductory-Circuit-Analysis-12th-Edition/dp/0137146663
Now, if you're talking specifically PCB manufacturing, as opposed to circuit design, all of my knowledge of that actually is self-taught. I simply researched the various different ways of making PCBs at home, and picked my favorite one. As far as actually designing the PCB, you just need to learn how to use the proper software (I recommend either eaglePCB or KiCAD)

[dj027x]

The top board should be milled within a week or so.

[FLFisherman]

The top board should be milled within a week or so.

Milled?

[mastermachetier]

To be honest, anyone can really pick up an iron and learn to solder, but I just don't have enough electrical knowledge to make my own PCB. Do you have any recommendations for me?

Well, no doubt, there is a lot of knowledge that goes into PCB design, but it is all pretty easy to understand. My knowledge of electronics has come from a mix of personal and academic experiences. I learn the theory from college courses, and I implement that knowledge in a practical way in personal projects. Before college, I tried very hard to teach myself electronics, but didn't really get anywhere. A professor is simply a far more powerful resource than a book or youtube video because professors often have industry experience; they know both the theory and practical applications of electronics. That being said, the next best thing to a college course is a college textbook (which I never attempted to use while teaching myself, so it may work very well). They are usually $50 to $150, however you should be able to find torrents for them if they're over 1yr old. The textbook I used in college (which I find to be rather well constructed) is introductory circuit analysis http://www.amazon.com/Introductory-Circuit-Analysis-12th-Edition/dp/0137146663
Now, if you're talking specifically PCB manufacturing, as opposed to circuit design, all of my knowledge of that actually is self-taught. I simply researched the various different ways of making PCBs at home, and picked my favorite one. As far as actually designing the PCB, you just need to learn how to use the proper software (I recommend either eaglePCB or KiCAD)

Hey man amazing project and amazing work . I am very interested to see the results. Just a few quick questions on your process into making the pcb. What is the name of the process and are there any resources that are handy for replicating. Also when you are finishing the pcb here is there a reason you are milling instead of the process you used earlier or showed in that first pcb your created. Also Is your goal when you publish your pcb design to make it be able to be sent any where that produces custom pcbs and also be able to make it yourself at home?

Thanks again for the time you are putting into the process.

[dj027x]

Milled?

Hey man amazing project and amazing work . I am very interested to see the results. Just a few quick questions on your process into making the pcb. What is the name of the process and are there any resources that are handy for replicating. Also when you are finishing the pcb here is there a reason you are milling instead of the process you used earlier or showed in that first pcb your created. Also Is your goal when you publish your pcb design to make it be able to be sent any where that produces custom pcbs and also be able to make it yourself at home?

Hey, glad to hear you are interested in the project! Are you referring to the process to design the PCB, or to fabricate it? To design, I simply determine the components I will need, and how they must be arranged, if the user is going to see them. From this, I determine where they sit on the PCB, and from there it's pretty much trial and error; attempting to find a circuit design that connects everything properly without ridiculously long traces or any erroneous vias. If you look VERY closely at past versions of the key matrix layout in the photos I've posted, you will notice various errors in the design, hence why I made newer versions (and HOPEFULLY eliminated all of the errors). If you are referring to the PCB fabrication process, I believe it's just referred to as 'milling a PCB'. I actually buy a copper-clad FR4 (FR4 simply means 'fiberglass') board. I then use the milling machine to cut troughs just deep enough to cut through the copper layer, but not the rest of the board. Resources to replicate it are pretty scattered around the web. It's taken a lot of programming/scripting to fine-tune my milling machine. However if you are interested, my milling machine is a modified X-Carve, and can be purchased for about $700 at inventables.com. The software I use to create my circuit boards and convert them into a path for the milling machine to follow is EaglePCB or KiCAD (for designing the board) Visolate (converts copper trace paths into toolpaths) drl2ngc (a script I wrote myself to create a toolpath based on the vias that need to be drilled for the design) Camotics (to get a rendered preview of what a toolpath will end up cutting out) and Universal G-Code Sender (communicates with the milling machine). Keep in mind that all of these tools are for GNU/Linux. I don't know if they have windows/mac alternatives. As for why I chose milling over etching; I find that milling circuit boards is faster, far more accurate, repeatable, efficient, controlled, cost effective, and less messy (it creates fiberglass dust, but there are no hazardous chemicals involved like there are in the etching process, and I have a gas/particle mask and air filter to filter out the dust). When the project is done, I'm going to release the project files in a format that most PCB manufacturers will accept, under some Free and Open Source license so people can improve and redistribute the design if they desire. Because the design is only 2 layers, and has relatively thick traces, it should be relatively easy for anybody to make at home, no matter what fabrication process they'd like to use.

[dj027x]

Just so y'all know, I've had to put this on the back burner while I focus on college work. Shouldn't be long till I wrap this project up

[TheJonas]

Just so y'all know, I've had to put this on the back burner while I focus on college work. Shouldn't be long till I wrap this project up

Good luck! Looking forward to seeing the final result