https://geekhack.org/index.php?topic=63017.0
http://www.enjoyclick.org/forum.php?mod=viewthread&tid=6600
http://www.pcwaishe.cn/thread-595247-1-1.html
https://geekhack.org/index.php?topic=63017.0
http://www.enjoyclick.org/forum.php?mod=viewthread&tid=6600
http://www.pcwaishe.cn/thread-595247-1-1.html
I actually plan on buying this (http://www.armygroup.com.tw/shop/goods.php?id=16394) pcb when I visit armygroup in about 2 days.
Is it proven working? Seems like there is led holes for every switch... which wasn't on the original GH60 without a additional controller.
Help would be much appreciated!
actually if anyone has a line on these still I'd be interested in one
I'm ready for the Satan GB ;)actually if anyone has a line on these still I'd be interested in one
Yeah, since it doesn't look like the actual GH60s are ever going to ship. :'(
I just ordered one from taobao seller loveq. Maybe someone could get in contact with him? He sells Gaterons, GH60 Satan, and stabilizers through taobao, but I'd rather deal with him directly without a taobao agent, if at all possible.
Yeah, since it doesn't look like the actual GH60s are ever going to ship. :'(
Yeah, since it doesn't look like the actual GH60s are ever going to ship. :'(
Is this a semi-official statement?
Please someone make a full review/guide of that PCB when you got it working! I really want one, but I'd like to read some positive things before. :)
Yep, please post and keep us informed. :)
I wish someone would setup a group buy for these. I'm not as brave as JD, but would love to get one.I might try and get something together in the somewhat distant future (rather not be running 4 buys at the same time :p)
https://imgur.com/a/rfezG
The firmware instructions, in case anybody needs it. I can also provide the original AIO 2-layer layout if anybody needs it, but for me one of the major joys of having a custom board is customizing the layers and layouts, so...
For some reason my keyboard doesn't seem to go past the "waiting for bootloader...." stage with reflash.bat. Do I need additional drivers or something?
Edit: Just installed zadig.exe for the appropriate drivers, this time is wrote to the keyboard but now it won't work! :(
Edit2: Managed to get it to somewhat work by reflashing the firmware to it (not the same as the one that came with it as it doesn't seem to account for the pinky function). Not really sure what to do as the layout is still less than ideal.
Sorry if this is pretty nooby, never had a keyboard that runs on this firmware before!
Same thing happen for my GH60, eventhough I use GH60_revCH firmware which included in the tool.
https://imgur.com/a/rfezG
The firmware instructions, in case anybody needs it. I can also provide the original AIO 2-layer layout if anybody needs it, but for me one of the major joys of having a custom board is customizing the layers and layouts, so...
For some reason my keyboard doesn't seem to go past the "waiting for bootloader...." stage with reflash.bat. Do I need additional drivers or something?
Edit: Just installed zadig.exe for the appropriate drivers, this time is wrote to the keyboard but now it won't work! :(
Edit2: Managed to get it to somewhat work by reflashing the firmware to it (not the same as the one that came with it as it doesn't seem to account for the pinky function). Not really sure what to do as the layout is still less than ideal.
Sorry if this is pretty nooby, never had a keyboard that runs on this firmware before!
Same thing happen for my GH60, eventhough I use GH60_revCH firmware which included in the tool.
Have you managed to get the keyboard working?
I don't think I made it very clear what I was doing in my reply. What I did was I used the firmware found here:
https://github.com/comicchang/tmk_keyboard/tree/master/keyboard/amj60
All the firmwares that came in that tool (tkg-toolkit) are not suitable with my keyboard (the AMJ60). I did flash it with the tool, but I had to use the LUFA_dfu apposed to the ATMEL_dfu, as I tried to use all the tools linked to by Hasu in the TMK thread but none of them found my keyboard (FLIP, Avrdude, etc.).
I am now back on the 'default' keymap for this PCB, which isn't the same one as the one that came on it when it shipped (like I said in my last post the pink fn doesn't work).
When I try to flash a new keymap (using TMK make commands) it always gives me the default keymap, even though I follow Hasu's instructions exactly.
I am hoping that someone with more experience in this area can help me out!
Same thing happen for my GH60, eventhough I use GH60_revCH firmware which included in the tool.
Have you managed to get the keyboard working?
I don't think I made it very clear what I was doing in my reply. What I did was I used the firmware found here:
https://github.com/comicchang/tmk_keyboard/tree/master/keyboard/amj60
All the firmwares that came in that tool (tkg-toolkit) are not suitable with my keyboard (the AMJ60). I did flash it with the tool, but I had to use the LUFA_dfu apposed to the ATMEL_dfu, as I tried to use all the tools linked to by Hasu in the TMK thread but none of them found my keyboard (FLIP, Avrdude, etc.).
I am now back on the 'default' keymap for this PCB, which isn't the same one as the one that came on it when it shipped (like I said in my last post the pink fn doesn't work).
When I try to flash a new keymap (using TMK make commands) it always gives me the default keymap, even though I follow Hasu's instructions exactly.
I am hoping that someone with more experience in this area can help me out!
The keyboard still working, but not the same as when it shipped. The original one have Fn at the Left-Win button while after I flash with GH60_revCH, there is no Fn button at all.
The keyboard still working, but not the same as when it shipped. The original one have Fn at the Left-Win button while after I flash with GH60_revCH, there is no Fn button at all.
It would be nice to see the final version of the GH60. Holding the final pcb out of the public domain until the never ending group buy finally delivers or everyone has died of old age is a shame.
I suspect there would be plenty of GH's built if the final board revision was available.
So where did you guys order yours?That's where everyone got theirs I'm pretty sure (I think more from Taobao before it was on ali). Seems a bit more expensive, not sure though
Just found this link, but I'm unsure what to make of it: http://www.aliexpress.com/item/Satan-GH60-PCB-White-Board-LED-DIY-Mechanical-Keyboard/32266124434.html
Also that one thread linked in the first post talks about slight mounting hole differences - is that fixed currently?
I just think I really need either this or GON now, else I'm going insane waiting for that groupbuy.
[ 2730.213494] usb 1-1.1.1: new full-speed USB device number 8 using ehci-pci
[ 2730.313447] input: geekhack GH60 as /devices/pci0000:00/0000:00:1a.0/usb1/1-1/1-1.1/1-1.1.1/1-1.1.1:1.0/0003:FEED:6060.0003/input/input13
[ 2730.367102] hid-generic 0003:FEED:6060.0003: input,hidraw2: USB HID v1.11 Keyboard [geekhack GH60] on usb-0000:00:1a.0-1.1.1/input0
[ 2730.368276] input: geekhack GH60 as /devices/pci0000:00/0000:00:1a.0/usb1/1-1/1-1.1/1-1.1.1/1-1.1.1:1.1/0003:FEED:6060.0004/input/input14
[ 2730.368590] hid-generic 0003:FEED:6060.0004: input,hidraw3: USB HID v1.11 Mouse [geekhack GH60] on usb-0000:00:1a.0-1.1.1/input1
[ 2730.369972] input: geekhack GH60 as /devices/pci0000:00/0000:00:1a.0/usb1/1-1/1-1.1/1-1.1.1/1-1.1.1:1.2/0003:FEED:6060.0005/input/input15
[ 2730.420331] hid-generic 0003:FEED:6060.0005: input,hidraw4: USB HID v1.11 Device [geekhack GH60] on usb-0000:00:1a.0-1.1.1/input2
[ 2730.421467] hid-generic 0003:FEED:6060.0006: hiddev0,hidraw5: USB HID v1.11 Device [geekhack GH60] on usb-0000:00:1a.0-1.1.1/input3
[ 2730.422585] input: geekhack GH60 as /devices/pci0000:00/0000:00:1a.0/usb1/1-1/1-1.1/1-1.1.1/1-1.1.1:1.4/0003:FEED:6060.0007/input/input16
[ 2730.473756] hid-generic 0003:FEED:6060.0007: input,hidraw6: USB HID v1.11 Keyboard [geekhack GH60] on usb-0000:00:1a.0-1.1.1/input4
[ 2732.576816] usb 1-1.1.1: USB disconnect, device number 8
[ 2739.441068] usb 1-1.1.1: new low-speed USB device number 10 using ehci-pci
[ 2739.521107] usb 1-1.1.1: device descriptor read/64, error -32
[ 2739.704558] usb 1-1.1.1: device descriptor read/64, error -32
[ 2739.888015] usb 1-1.1.1: new low-speed USB device number 11 using ehci-pci
[ 2740.955124] usb 1-1.1.1: new low-speed USB device number 12 using ehci-pci
[ 2741.181859] usb 1-1.1.1: new low-speed USB device number 13 using ehci-pci
[ 2741.261904] usb 1-1.1.1: device descriptor read/64, error -32
[ 2741.828897] usb 1-1.1.1: new low-speed USB device number 14 using ehci-pci
[ 2742.655902] usb 1-1.1.1: new low-speed USB device number 15 using ehci-pci
[ 2742.869396] usb 1-1.1.1: new low-speed USB device number 16 using ehci-pci
[ 2743.276155] usb 1-1.1.1: new low-speed USB device number 17 using ehci-pci
[ 2743.356191] usb 1-1.1.1: device descriptor read/64, error -32
[ 2743.539675] usb 1-1.1.1: device descriptor read/64, error -32
[ 2743.722994] usb 1-1.1.1: new low-speed USB device number 18 using ehci-pci
[ 2743.803012] usb 1-1.1.1: device descriptor read/64, error -32
Show Image(https://38.media.tumblr.com/1517259e981a88604428dab74adc2e61/tumblr_ngvz6r029e1qksk74o1_500.gif)
Show Image(https://38.media.tumblr.com/1517259e981a88604428dab74adc2e61/tumblr_ngvz6r029e1qksk74o1_500.gif)
This is not funny, even as a joke.
Show Image(https://38.media.tumblr.com/1517259e981a88604428dab74adc2e61/tumblr_ngvz6r029e1qksk74o1_500.gif)
This is not funny, even as a joke.
You have a problem with the Dark Lord? I believe we are all afforded freedom to our religious beliefs here at Geekhack.
How the hell (!) is that considered job unfriendly? I'd say if someone complained about that at work they'd probably be pretty damn fundamentalist nutjobs :p .Show Image(https://38.media.tumblr.com/1517259e981a88604428dab74adc2e61/tumblr_ngvz6r029e1qksk74o1_500.gif)
This is not funny, even as a joke.
You have a problem with the Dark Lord? I believe we are all afforded freedom to our religious beliefs here at Geekhack.
I thought there was recommended to keep GH job friendly, this image may not be job friendly in most places I know, religious beliefs apart. Isn't it?
... Yes... Is the Satan GH60 even remotely like the normal GH60? Or should I try to get a proper one instead? Either through the second-hand market now that they're shipping (a bit) or through a (hopefully) new round.You should consider the two (Satan GH60 and the proper GH60) as two different 60% PCBs, that don't have much in common except the form factor (60%) and the same MCU (atmega32u4). Different layout support, different row/col pinout, different backlight support, different quality... It's just plain annoying and the Chinese call their board GH60 for marketing purposes.
Good answer! Thank you. Considering the price I think I'll try it, and be happy if they work and not surprised if they don't.
I've used Kai Ryu's TMK fork on the RS60 I had before, and ran into the same problem (keymap wouldn't change if the firmware is updated). Looking at the sources, I realised that he's storing the current keymap in EEPROM, so even if you update the actual firmware, the keymap stays as it was before (because EEPROM is not normally updated along with the firmware). The solution I found (which worked for me) was to use the bootmagic key combo at power up that clears eeprom (it should be space+backspace by default).
I am without stabilizers, but am still trying to put together a Satan board right now. I'll remove some switches if necessary to install the stabs, I just wanted to be able to test the firmware.
The firmware is clearly TMK, and indeed when you first plug it in it works just fine, but has neither an FN key or any advanced features - just basic 60%. In fact you can't even get the F-keys!
Using software found here (https://github.com/kairyu/tkg-toolkit) I've been able to dump and reflash firmware, or at least it appears to work.
Using a fork of TMK found here (https://github.com/kairyu/tmk_keyboard_custom), made by the same github user, I've been able to compile a hex file which the other software appears to approve of and flash.
However, the keymap is the same afterwards! Even if I try an azerty keymap there's no change.
That's how it stood last night when I went to bed. Will continue testing tonight. I don't need many changes, but an fn layer is kind of important :|
Also, I ordered through Bhiner. Went off without a hitch, and their 50% DHL rebate was very handy. Cost me just over 22 USD to ship to Norway, and it took something like 4 days after paying on a weekend, most of which was apparently spent waiting for something to happen. As soon as DHL had it updates started coming in several times a day, and I had it within 36 hours.
Boards were 31 USD each, and I'm happy to say Bhiner is so happy to cheat the customs services that they have a specific field for it on their ordering form :)
I didn't mean to imply that there's any problem with your work - it was just a bit unexpected ;) It might be good in the long run to main some kind of "changelog" to explain the changes from the standard TMK, to make it easier for the people coming from there :) Nice work, by the way ;)I've used Kai Ryu's TMK fork on the RS60 I had before, and ran into the same problem (keymap wouldn't change if the firmware is updated). Looking at the sources, I realised that he's storing the current keymap in EEPROM, so even if you update the actual firmware, the keymap stays as it was before (because EEPROM is not normally updated along with the firmware). The solution I found (which worked for me) was to use the bootmagic key combo at power up that clears eeprom (it should be space+backspace by default).I apology for the lack of document on my fork. You can find my comment about this feature here: https://github.com/tmk/tmk_keyboard/pull/113#issuecomment-48425977
But this time I think it's not my bad :(
That's probably it. I set that variable and copied those functions from a blog, believing that it was in order to enable REVCHN-support. But I guess it's optional, so I'll try it without the variable set and see what happens.I've used Kai Ryu's TMK fork on the RS60 I had before, and ran into the same problem (keymap wouldn't change if the firmware is updated). Looking at the sources, I realised that he's storing the current keymap in EEPROM, so even if you update the actual firmware, the keymap stays as it was before (because EEPROM is not normally updated along with the firmware). The solution I found (which worked for me) was to use the bootmagic key combo at power up that clears eeprom (it should be space+backspace by default).
I apology for the lack of document on my fork. You can find my comment about this feature here: https://github.com/tmk/tmk_keyboard/pull/113#issuecomment-48425977
But this time I think it's not my bad :(
Yep, clearing EEPROM was the trick. I'll try to write up a quick little guide with what you need to do, it should be about 6 steps not including installing all the dependencies for compiling TMK or writing your own keymap, which is covered elsewhere.
Holy crap, it's been almost two months!
Well, I've now used this PCB for a few weeks, after finally getting all the parts and building two keyboards. The third is in the wings, I just need more stabilizers.
Quick verdict: Absolutely no reason to not get this. The only thing it doesn't have is good documentation and support for RGB LEDs, and both things are for newbs ;)
I quickly disabled the 'store keymap in EEPROM' thing, as it was tedious to first flash the keymap, then clear EEPROM, then test the keymap, then repeat. I might make a quick zipfile with the changes I made in Makefile and config.h. The additions to your keymap is no longer needed without the EEPROM thing.
Anyway, if people ask me to, I will update my gist to remove the EEPROM thing, thus making the process a little simpler. But this thread has died, so for all I know I'm the only person who will ever use this PCB :)
jeffj@jeffj-MacBookPro:~$ sudo dfu-programmer atmega32u4 dump
Failed to read 28672 bytes from device.
jeffj@jeffj-MacBookPro:~$ sudo dfu-programmer atmega32u4 dump-eeprom
Failed to read 1024 bytes from device.
jeffj@jeffj-MacBookPro:~$ sudo dfu-programmer atmega32u4 get family
Family Code: 0x1e (30)
jeffj@jeffj-MacBookPro:~$ sudo dfu-programmer atmega32u4 get product-name
Product Name: 0x95 (149)
jeffj@jeffj-MacBookPro:~$ sudo dfu-programmer atmega32u4 get bootloader-version
Bootloader Version: 0x00 (0)
root@jeffj-MacBookPro:~# dfu-programmer atmega32u4 flash-eeprom empty.eep
Error while programming eeprom.
root@jeffj-MacBookPro:~# dfu-programmer atmega32u4 flash-eeprom empty.eep --debug 5
target: atmega32u4
chip_id: 0x2ff4
vendor_id: 0x03eb
command: flash-eeprom
quiet: false
debug: 5
device_type: AVR
------ command specific below ------
validate: true
hex file: empty.eep
Error while programming eeprom.
OK, I figured out what I was doing. Here is my simplified guide for how to reprogram the GH60-RevCHN (AKA the GH60 'Satan Intention to do').
It is quite simple really. Go to the TKG keymap generator, http://www.enjoyclick.org/tkg/ input the raw data of your layers from the keyboard layout editor tool, download your keymap.eep for the RevCHN, download Kai's tkg-toolkit, do setup.sh accordingly, then do "./reflash.sh keymap.eep" in the 'linux' folder... Done.
OK, I figured out what I was doing. Here is my simplified guide for how to reprogram the GH60-RevCHN (AKA the GH60 'Satan Intention to do').New URL for the tool: http://keyboard.fans/tkg/
It is quite simple really. Go to the TKG keymap generator,http://www.enjoyclick.org/tkg/input the raw data of your layers from the keyboard layout editor tool, download your keymap.eep for the RevCHN, download Kai's tkg-toolkit, do setup.sh accordingly, then do "./reflash.sh keymap.eep" in the 'linux' folder... Done.
For people who don't want to deal with taobaoOr eBay.
http://www.ebay.com/ulk/itm/272032784852
For people who don't want to deal with taobao
http://www.ebay.com/ulk/itm/272032784852
got mine from ebay a month ago
never posted on geekhack about it but i really like the board, price not too bad, easy to program, backlighting works fine
(https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1565/23946242925_6e1edc968b_z.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/Cu3KKk)
got mine from ebay a month ago
never posted on geekhack about it but i really like the board, price not too bad, easy to program, backlighting works fine
(https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1565/23946242925_6e1edc968b_z.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/Cu3KKk)
Using TKG toolkit I cannot seem to reflash the board. Pressing the button on the PCB when running reflash seems to turn off the board, but the script doesn't seem to connect to it :confused: Anyone had this experience?Me. For some reason it worked with the backside button for a good two weeks then it suddenly stopped.
EDIT: for whatever reason, the button on the pcb didn't seem to work properly but the 'magic' button and 'pause' managed to bump it correctly into bootloader :D I now have a nice split backspace ISO keyboard set up in Canadian Multilingual :thumb:What's the magic button? Both shifts?
I got confused and actually worked on my work-stuff instead...
nathan: That is true now, but wasn't then. I'll fix it, though. You know, in that fantastical period of time where things actually get done.
Edit: I saved the gist in a somewhat unstable state. DO NOT USE AS IS.
Use this old version instead: https://gist.github.com/to***erl/7182f2c6dd803a68b952/50600b177c32f22add6d1341b11babcf3bf19de8
I got confused and actually worked on my work-stuff instead...
nathan: That is true now, but wasn't then. I'll fix it, though. You know, in that fantastical period of time where things actually get done.
Edit: I saved the gist in a somewhat unstable state. DO NOT USE AS IS.
Use this old version instead: https://gist.github.com/to***erl/7182f2c6dd803a68b952/50600b177c32f22add6d1341b11babcf3bf19de8
I got confused and actually worked on my work-stuff instead...
nathan: That is true now, but wasn't then. I'll fix it, though. You know, in that fantastical period of time where things actually get done.
Edit: I saved the gist in a somewhat unstable state. DO NOT USE AS IS.
Use this old version instead: https://gist.github.com/to***erl/7182f2c6dd803a68b952/50600b177c32f22add6d1341b11babcf3bf19de8
There are two 404'd links in your tutorial here https://gist.github.com/to***erl/7182f2c6dd803a68b952.
I really dont know what i'm doing :'( :'( :'(
I got confused and actually worked on my work-stuff instead...
nathan: That is true now, but wasn't then. I'll fix it, though. You know, in that fantastical period of time where things actually get done.
Edit: I saved the gist in a somewhat unstable state. DO NOT USE AS IS.
Use this old version instead: https://gist.github.com/to***erl/7182f2c6dd803a68b952/50600b177c32f22add6d1341b11babcf3bf19de8
There are two 404'd links in your tutorial here https://gist.github.com/to***erl/7182f2c6dd803a68b952.
I really dont know what i'm doing :'( :'( :'(
It's because TMK switch branch names:
https://github.com/tmk/tmk_keyboard/blob/core/doc/build.md
https://github.com/tmk/tmk_keyboard/blob/core/doc/keymap.md
Fixed URLs and made some small corrections. I'm going to run through the entire process as if I was following the tutorial later tonight just to doublecheck, but it should be OK now. I might be missing some editing, though - I feel like I edited at least SOME files...
I had good luck programming the KC60 keyboard (purchased from Massdrop). Is it possible to get the KC60 PCB as a separate item?
got mine from ebay a month ago
never posted on geekhack about it but i really like the board, price not too bad, easy to program, backlighting works fine
(https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1565/23946242925_6e1edc968b_z.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/Cu3KKk)
The color doesn't matter, what really matters is that it depends on what your intention to do is.
The work on the revised guide has been slightly delayed by the fact that I don't actually have a Satan board at home right now. I broke one, one is at work, and the third lacks stabilizers, so it's not yet been built.
I still need to solder mine :'( Now i'm scared
I got confused and actually worked on my work-stuff instead...
nathan: That is true now, but wasn't then. I'll fix it, though. You know, in that fantastical period of time where things actually get done.
Edit: I saved the gist in a somewhat unstable state. DO NOT USE AS IS.
Use this old version instead: https://gist.github.com/to***erl/7182f2c6dd803a68b952/50600b177c32f22add6d1341b11babcf3bf19de8
There are two 404'd links in your tutorial here https://gist.github.com/to***erl/7182f2c6dd803a68b952.
I really dont know what i'm doing :'( :'( :'(
I got confused and actually worked on my work-stuff instead...
nathan: That is true now, but wasn't then. I'll fix it, though. You know, in that fantastical period of time where things actually get done.
Edit: I saved the gist in a somewhat unstable state. DO NOT USE AS IS.
Use this old version instead: https://gist.github.com/to***erl/7182f2c6dd803a68b952/50600b177c32f22add6d1341b11babcf3bf19de8
There are two 404'd links in your tutorial here https://gist.github.com/to***erl/7182f2c6dd803a68b952.
I really dont know what i'm doing :'( :'( :'(
I guess this is because poor dirty word filter. ****ing censorship!
http://bit.ly/1Wz8biT
BTW, "f a g" are charactors censored.
Yep, both shifts and pause (which is in the function layer) did it for me... Funnily enough, I flashed a layout which didn't have the pause key on it, but the PCB button started to work after that :/
Tofgerl: the steps for deleting 'tmk_core*' folders, I think you just need to do 'git submodule update'.
There are tons of guides for how to use git. There's no reason for me to make another one.
There are tons of guides for how to use git. There's no reason for me to make another one.
There are tons of guides for how to use git. There's no reason for me to make another one.
I never suggested that you should. only that I don't understand it.
I figured out how to program all my layers and get everything working.
I made all my layers and layouts on keyboard layout editor
http://www.keyboard-layout-editor.com/
I pasted the raw data into the TMK keymap generator, and downloaded the eep file.
http://www.enjoyclick.org/tkg/
I downloaded kairyu's toolkit.
ran setup with options 2,N,1,1
My problem was that I was simply clicking the reflash program.
The solution was to drag the keymap.eep to the reflash and run.
It turned the board off completely, and I needed to press any key on another keyboard.
Fin
thanks for listening and putting up with me everyone :))
Protip (after hours of work, even got out the multimeter!):
The split backspace's right most button is actually on the grid BEFORE the right alt on the bottom row! There is no 15th column! Its a part of the bottom row's row (k49).
Protip (after hours of work, even got out the multimeter!):
The split backspace's right most button is actually on the grid BEFORE the right alt on the bottom row! There is no 15th column! Its a part of the bottom row's row (k49).
Well played debugging that issue!... but, it is documented here in the HHKB layout ;) https://github.com/tmk/tmk_keyboard/blob/master/keyboard/gh60/keymap_common.h
"Documenting" in .h-files is not documenting. It is commenting.
I have a poker compatible case (from massdrop). What screws/where do I get screws that are typically used for mounting the board to the case?M2x4mm
ok so I skrewed up and dropped my pcb. The usb connector fell off. I saved it by soldering the pads directly to the usb hub. The keyboard works with the normal firmware, but when I try to reflash it the button disconnects the board from the computer, but the bootloader does not run. Any suggestions?
Leaving my experience with firmware/flashing here: I tried to follow all of everyone's advice here but none of it seemed to work until the last page where redbanshee mentioned atmel flip. When in boot loader mode windows wasn't recognizing atmega32u4 correctly, installing the drivers worked!
I went back and tried tkg again with no luck. I was still stuck on Waiting for bootloader... So I used flip to flash my firmware. It worked! But the firmware built from tmk_keyboard/keyboard/gh60 bricked half the keys and the debounce time was very very weird.
Then I did another hour of looking around and found that EasyAVR had added support for the GH60 Satan! From there I was able to customize and build a new firmware build and flash it successfully using flip!
I now have a working keyboard(minus a full board of LEDs) and I'm pretty happy. Sorry for reviving an old thread but I was lost and I'm hoping this can help someone else.
Flip: http://www.atmel.com/tools/FLIP.aspx
EasyAVR: https://deskthority.net/wiki/Easy_AVR_USB_Keyboard_Firmware
So moistgun helped me with that same issue when using TGK. You have to put the board in bootloader, then launch the exe in the tool folder called zadig. Go to options, show all devices. Then choose this optionShow Image(http://i.imgur.com/cUa0dcw.png)
Then you do the setup.bat file
choose
2
N
1
1
then drag your keymap.eep file onto the reflash.bat file and follow directions
VentureG, Would you mind sharing your keyboard layout editor data, or the pre-compiled http://www.enjoyclick.org/tkg/ page filled in with that raw data? y not both?
Just want to check to make sure something isn't missed.
Hmmm, I don't remember the stock layout.
http://www.keyboardtester.com
Go this site, hold your function key and test until you find it.
First, I need to have\find the function key 🙈 or maybe even de- amd resolder to actualy get one!?
I have a poker compatible case (from massdrop). What screws/where do I get screws that are typically used for mounting the board to the case?
Are these pcbs pretty reliable? I just need a pcb to replace my broken poker 2 pcb and I don't care for programmability.
Thank you. Still, I did not get a Fn response so far. I will try again tomorrow.Can you tell us exactly what you are doing, step by step, so we can help?
Edit: I gave it another shot. The rightmost key ind row 2 (leftmost if the board is fliped around) does not change anything, triggers nothing. But briding works, since i can bridge the unused Shift or Control keys and get the expected results. I am kind of stuck now, honestly. :(
Fn is NOT on the default satan layout I received. The way I ended up flashing was using flip drivers + EasyAVR + flip or zadig drivers + tmk + tkg. That way when the board was in bootdriver mode my computer would recognize the device as a working atmega32u4
So moistgun helped me with that same issue when using TGK. You have to put the board in bootloader, then launch the exe in the tool folder called zadig. Go to options, show all devices. Then choose this optionShow Image(http://i.imgur.com/cUa0dcw.png)
Then you do the setup.bat file
choose
2
N
1
1
then drag your keymap.eep file onto the reflash.bat file and follow directions
Atmel Flip and TKG are merely tools used to flash firmwares. It doesn't matter if you used EasyAVR or TKG or TMK to build your firmware, Flip and TKG can flash it. I just spent 20 minutes writing a nice guide but then I pressed refresh because I'm a serial refresher and it's all gone. I'll write a quicky.Well with the tmk setup you are flashing using an eep file, I needed the instructions to load the hex to the board with flip. And specifically how to make it recognize the USB through flip. I want to use easyavr to program as its a bit easier on the fly.
1. BUILD YOUR FIRMWARE WITH WHATEVER. This should produce a '.hex' file.
How to get drivers and use Flip
1. Download it and install (http://www.atmel.com/tools/FLIP.aspx) (it requires java).
2. Plug in the board you want to flash
3. Put it in bootloader mode by pressing the button. You should hear the device disconnect sound.
4. Open device manager and look for Universal Serial Bus Devices
5. You should see atm32u4DFU or atm32u4 possibly with a yellow exclamation sign.
6. Right click > Update or Install Device Drivers > Browse my computer for drivers
7. Check the Include Subfolders box and brows for your atmel flip install folder.
8. Hit next. This should install atmel flip drivers.
9. Follow this video guide on how to use flip: Not a valid vimeo URL - your board has to be in bootloader mode to flash.
How to get drivers and use TKG
1. Download and install zadig (http://zadig.akeo.ie/) This is what will find the right driver that TKG is expecting.
2. Put your board in bootloader mode
3. Open zadig 2.2
4. Now follow HPE1000So moistgun helped me with that same issue when using TGK. You have to put the board in bootloader, then launch the exe in the tool folder called zadig. Go to options, show all devices. Then choose this optionShow Image(http://i.imgur.com/cUa0dcw.png)
Then you do the setup.bat file
choose
2
N
1
1
then drag your keymap.eep file onto the reflash.bat file and follow directions
That should do it.
Well with the tmk setup you are flashing using an eep file, I needed the instructions to load the hex to the board with flip. And specifically how to make it recognize the USB through flip. I want to use easyavr to program as its a bit easier on the fly.
Also you linked his explanation of my explanation to him lolol
Thanks alot, that should have answered my question!
Well with the tmk setup you are flashing using an eep file, I needed the instructions to load the hex to the board with flip. And specifically how to make it recognize the USB through flip. I want to use easyavr to program as its a bit easier on the fly.
Also you linked his explanation of my explanation to him lolol
Thanks alot, that should have answered my question!
Sorry, I wanted to include both so all the information could be included in one place. Wouldn't have known to use zadig without you and HPE1000
Oh, I just thought it was funny thats all.
I did the steps to update the drivers, and they say that they are the most up to date version.
However it still says could not open usb device
Using windows 10 Enterprise 64-bit (10.0 Build 10240). I can try using Ubuntu to flash.
What's the difference between a eep file and a hex? I am used to using EasyAVR for pretty much all my boards (GH60, Phantom,Handwired, etc) and when I tried to flash using a hex file the keyboard just stopped working. I think it has something to do with eeprom but agian cannot be sure and that is why I am asking.
So I can drop a hex file on reflash.bat and do it that way? awesome, thanks... :D
Does the Satan gh60 support pcb mounted stabilizers?
Does the Satan gh60 support pcb mounted stabilizers?
Yep
So im using a plate with mine, do you recommend i use pcb mounted or plate mounted stabilizers? Is one better then another?
Thanks,
Perfect thank you! And yes i figured that seemed a bit dramatic ;DSo im using a plate with mine, do you recommend i use pcb mounted or plate mounted stabilizers? Is one better then another?
Thanks,
PCB will be more stable if you are using a PCB
he/she was complaining about the force needed to insert them was annoying
If im using a plate also will PCB mounted stabs be in the way at all or no?
Thanks,
mhmmmm two different answers haha
"PCB-mount only. There is no way to have holes in the plate to clip stabs onto, and also have support for various layouts." (https://geekhack.org/index.php?topic=73666.0)
leandren plates are one of those exceptions (like SPRiT ones) that I've mentioned!Shows what I know! Listen to prelim!
if you read in the GB, he said:Quote"PCB-mount only. There is no way to have holes in the plate to clip stabs onto, and also have support for various layouts." (https://geekhack.org/index.php?topic=73666.0)
mhmmmm two different answers haha
I have a Satan PCB, PCB mount stabs, and a plate from leandren.
no issues.
This is the only MX board i've built, so its my one experience to share.
mhmmmm two different answers haha
I have a Satan PCB, PCB mount stabs, and a plate from leandren.
no issues.
This is the only MX board i've built, so its my one experience to share.
i keep seeing this thing pop up. and i'm somewhat interested. on yours do you plate mount or just solder the switches directly to the pcb no plate?
That's plate mounted :)mhmmmm two different answers haha
I have a Satan PCB, PCB mount stabs, and a plate from leandren.
no issues.
This is the only MX board i've built, so its my one experience to share.
i keep seeing this thing pop up. and i'm somewhat interested. on yours do you plate mount or just solder the switches directly to the pcb no plate?
My switches are snapped into a plate and the switches are soldered to a pcb.
That's plate mounted :)mhmmmm two different answers haha
I have a Satan PCB, PCB mount stabs, and a plate from leandren.
no issues.
This is the only MX board i've built, so its my one experience to share.
i keep seeing this thing pop up. and i'm somewhat interested. on yours do you plate mount or just solder the switches directly to the pcb no plate?
My switches are snapped into a plate and the switches are soldered to a pcb.
Has anyone ever had a whole row of keys not being recognized? For me that is the case with the second bottom row (where both shifts are located).
Any ideas how to fix that?
Has anyone ever had a whole row of keys not being recognized? For me that is the case with the second bottom row (where both shifts are located).
Any ideas how to fix that?
Has anyone ever had a whole row of keys not being recognized? For me that is the case with the second bottom row (where both shifts are located).
Any ideas how to fix that?
There are 2 versions of the satan 60, and the new one is wired differently. What version do you have? The way to tell is if there are 1210 led pads on the back (http://i.imgur.com/Z5VKoxo.jpg), if there are pads on the back then you have the the first version and you could try and use my firmware here : https://github.com/BNCaps/QMK-RGB/tree/master/keyboard/satan
I have no experience with the new version of the PCB, but i read somewhere that they had to do some manual tracing to get a version of TMK working with it as the column layout is different then the first version.
You could also email whoever you got it from asking where the original firmware is.
Jee, that is why I prefer to go with other PCBs, instead of this.
Does this look like the new or old version?
https://www.bhiner.com/taobao-agent/44233495458
Because I bought the new version before, and I need more (you know, because of the reasons...) and I'd really like to avoid having to "support two codebases" as they say...
Yeah, I wonder if they meant it to say something like "Be satanic" or whatever.
China's grasp of english as a community is horrible :(
A knockoff with full technical support? LOL.
if you use plate you must use plate mounted stabs, with some exceptions (like the SPRiT acrylic plate) which only are compatible with PCB mounted stabs ;)
The fault with my PCB turned out to be a pin of the chip not being soldered to the PCB.
Not only do you get what you pay for, but you get where you buy it as well, though that doesn't sound as good.
I noticed there is a button on the underneath of this board...are there already LEDS installled?
So I just have to solder the less in that's all?I noticed there is a button on the underneath of this board...are there already LEDS installled?
The button is for putting the pcb into boot mode. basically telling to to open itself to reprogramming
it does not have leds on it. it has diodes and resistors however.
So I just have to solder the less in that's all?I noticed there is a button on the underneath of this board...are there already LEDS installled?
The button is for putting the pcb into boot mode. basically telling to to open itself to reprogramming
it does not have leds on it. it has diodes and resistors however.
Sent from my LG-H830 using Tapatalk
ok so I skrewed up and dropped my pcb. The usb connector fell off. I saved it by soldering the pads directly to the usb hub. The keyboard works with the normal firmware, but when I try to reflash it the button disconnects the board from the computer, but the bootloader does not run. Any suggestions?
So i want to build a 60%, and thought the Satan GH60 would be a good first build.
I would like to use this layout. http://i.imgur.com/wd7sCnO.jpg
The PCB supports ISO with split backspace and spilt right shift, but i can't seem to find a plate, that supports this layout.
Can anyone tell me where i can get a plate for this layout?
Hi im thinking of geting one of the Satan GH60 for my first build but not sure if i should just make a lay out of just wires switches and a teensy as the Satan GH60 comes to over 200$ with tax and im still missing the stabilizers and back plate im having trouble finding a place to buy stabilizers for cheep i live in canada on ebay i only find 1 stabilizers for 10$ and 5S shipping witch i find expensive compared to anything els for this build also see that the Satan GH60 can have some trouble setting up the firm ware did anyone find that to be to difficult as some on here said that even after flashing they didn't have a working FN button.
so any help on were to get stabilizers or ideas witch would be better for a project Satan GH60 or custom with a teensy 2.0 would be appreciated thanks
Hi im thinking of geting one of the Satan GH60 for my first build but not sure if i should just make a lay out of just wires switches and a teensy as the Satan GH60 comes to over 200$ with tax and im still missing the stabilizers and back plate im having trouble finding a place to buy stabilizers for cheep i live in canada on ebay i only find 1 stabilizers for 10$ and 5S shipping witch i find expensive compared to anything els for this build also see that the Satan GH60 can have some trouble setting up the firm ware did anyone find that to be to difficult as some on here said that even after flashing they didn't have a working FN button.
so any help on were to get stabilizers or ideas witch would be better for a project Satan GH60 or custom with a teensy 2.0 would be appreciated thanks
This fork of the GH60 has been reported with issues mainly related with the reliability of the USB port soldering that is critical for a keyboard with detachable cable. I am not sure to understand why this PCB could cost you that much if it is around $35 USD at ebay. You could consider the GH60 that is sold by techkeys as an alternative. The direct wiring is a good option too. I am considering to make my own layout with a plate I made using the cool Swill's tool and I would get a Teensy 2 for cheap at ebay, everything with diodes and wires should cost under $40 USD and it is as flexible as I can get my plate. One of the possible layouts is bellow:Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/y7pxzQd.jpg)
Hi im thinking of geting one of the Satan GH60 for my first build but not sure if i should just make a lay out of just wires switches and a teensy as the Satan GH60 comes to over 200$ with tax and im still missing the stabilizers and back plate im having trouble finding a place to buy stabilizers for cheep i live in canada on ebay i only find 1 stabilizers for 10$ and 5S shipping witch i find expensive compared to anything els for this build also see that the Satan GH60 can have some trouble setting up the firm ware did anyone find that to be to difficult as some on here said that even after flashing they didn't have a working FN button.
so any help on were to get stabilizers or ideas witch would be better for a project Satan GH60 or custom with a teensy 2.0 would be appreciated thanks
This fork of the GH60 has been reported with issues mainly related with the reliability of the USB port soldering that is critical for a keyboard with detachable cable. I am not sure to understand why this PCB could cost you that much if it is around $35 USD at ebay. You could consider the GH60 that is sold by techkeys as an alternative. The direct wiring is a good option too. I am considering to make my own layout with a plate I made using the cool Swill's tool and I would get a Teensy 2 for cheap at ebay, everything with diodes and wires should cost under $40 USD and it is as flexible as I can get my plate. One of the possible layouts is bellow:Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/y7pxzQd.jpg)
cool layout. i make a friction teensy2 and ++ mount and plates. let me know if you need anything. best of luck on the project. i always love seeing new layouts :)
Hi im thinking of geting one of the Satan GH60 for my first build but not sure if i should just make a lay out of just wires switches and a teensy as the Satan GH60 comes to over 200$ with tax and im still missing the stabilizers and back plate im having trouble finding a place to buy stabilizers for cheep i live in canada on ebay i only find 1 stabilizers for 10$ and 5S shipping witch i find expensive compared to anything els for this build also see that the Satan GH60 can have some trouble setting up the firm ware did anyone find that to be to difficult as some on here said that even after flashing they didn't have a working FN button.
so any help on were to get stabilizers or ideas witch would be better for a project Satan GH60 or custom with a teensy 2.0 would be appreciated thanks
This fork of the GH60 has been reported with issues mainly related with the reliability of the USB port soldering that is critical for a keyboard with detachable cable. I am not sure to understand why this PCB could cost you that much if it is around $35 USD at ebay. You could consider the GH60 that is sold by techkeys as an alternative. The direct wiring is a good option too. I am considering to make my own layout with a plate I made using the cool Swill's tool and I would get a Teensy 2 for cheap at ebay, everything with diodes and wires should cost under $40 USD and it is as flexible as I can get my plate. One of the possible layouts is bellow:Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/y7pxzQd.jpg)
cool layout. i make a friction teensy2 and ++ mount and plates. let me know if you need anything. best of luck on the project. i always love seeing new layouts :)
Could you please elaborate on that? it may be interesting, and thank you for your feedback on the layout.
Hi im thinking of geting one of the Satan GH60 for my first build but not sure if i should just make a lay out of just wires switches and a teensy as the Satan GH60 comes to over 200$ with tax and im still missing the stabilizers and back plate im having trouble finding a place to buy stabilizers for cheep i live in canada on ebay i only find 1 stabilizers for 10$ and 5S shipping witch i find expensive compared to anything els for this build also see that the Satan GH60 can have some trouble setting up the firm ware did anyone find that to be to difficult as some on here said that even after flashing they didn't have a working FN button.
so any help on were to get stabilizers or ideas witch would be better for a project Satan GH60 or custom with a teensy 2.0 would be appreciated thanks
This fork of the GH60 has been reported with issues mainly related with the reliability of the USB port soldering that is critical for a keyboard with detachable cable. I am not sure to understand why this PCB could cost you that much if it is around $35 USD at ebay. You could consider the GH60 that is sold by techkeys as an alternative. The direct wiring is a good option too. I am considering to make my own layout with a plate I made using the cool Swill's tool and I would get a Teensy 2 for cheap at ebay, everything with diodes and wires should cost under $40 USD and it is as flexible as I can get my plate. One of the possible layouts is bellow:Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/y7pxzQd.jpg)
cool layout. i make a friction teensy2 and ++ mount and plates. let me know if you need anything. best of luck on the project. i always love seeing new layouts :)
Could you please elaborate on that? it may be interesting, and thank you for your feedback on the layout.
i'll PM you as to not overly hijack the thread ;D
Does the satan gh60 support alps switches?!No
Sent from my LG-H830 using Tapatalk
Hi everyone,Both should allow for leds and should be an easy entry to customs. These boards have had random issues here and there but nothing a return wouldn't fix. My board was perfectly fine when I got it.
I am going to build my first ever mechanical keyboard, and I think I am going for the Satan PCB with Gateron Switches.
will this PCB allow for an easy first time experience and does it support LED's? also, what kind of LED's should I get?
at the moment thinking about just buying this package;
http://www.aliexpress.com/item/Customized-KC60-60-Kit-Plastic-Case-Switches-Plate-Led-Stabilizers-for-60-Standard-ANSI-Mechanical-Keyboard/32629156371.html
it says they don't have the Satan PCB's, but the KC60 PCB's. however, they note that these should work exactly the same.
does anyone have experience with the KC60 PCB's?
Hi everyone,Both should allow for leds and should be an easy entry to customs. These boards have had random issues here and there but nothing a return wouldn't fix. My board was perfectly fine when I got it.
I am going to build my first ever mechanical keyboard, and I think I am going for the Satan PCB with Gateron Switches.
will this PCB allow for an easy first time experience and does it support LED's? also, what kind of LED's should I get?
at the moment thinking about just buying this package;
http://www.aliexpress.com/item/Customized-KC60-60-Kit-Plastic-Case-Switches-Plate-Led-Stabilizers-for-60-Standard-ANSI-Mechanical-Keyboard/32629156371.html
it says they don't have the Satan PCB's, but the KC60 PCB's. however, they note that these should work exactly the same.
does anyone have experience with the KC60 PCB's?
2x3x4 leds are what I use. Just grab those from Ali if you're getting that package
Sent from my local payphone
Hi everyone,Both should allow for leds and should be an easy entry to customs. These boards have had random issues here and there but nothing a return wouldn't fix. My board was perfectly fine when I got it.
I am going to build my first ever mechanical keyboard, and I think I am going for the Satan PCB with Gateron Switches.
will this PCB allow for an easy first time experience and does it support LED's? also, what kind of LED's should I get?
at the moment thinking about just buying this package;
http://www.aliexpress.com/item/Customized-KC60-60-Kit-Plastic-Case-Switches-Plate-Led-Stabilizers-for-60-Standard-ANSI-Mechanical-Keyboard/32629156371.html
it says they don't have the Satan PCB's, but the KC60 PCB's. however, they note that these should work exactly the same.
does anyone have experience with the KC60 PCB's?
2x3x4 leds are what I use. Just grab those from Ali if you're getting that package
Sent from my local payphone
thanks, the package actually includes LED's, so I will just go with those. now to choose between white and green LED's. planning to do a dark grey case, with light grey keys and dark green modifiers. might put in a red ESC button.
well, going of track now.
Hi everyone,Both should allow for leds and should be an easy entry to customs. These boards have had random issues here and there but nothing a return wouldn't fix. My board was perfectly fine when I got it.
I am going to build my first ever mechanical keyboard, and I think I am going for the Satan PCB with Gateron Switches.
will this PCB allow for an easy first time experience and does it support LED's? also, what kind of LED's should I get?
at the moment thinking about just buying this package;
http://www.aliexpress.com/item/Customized-KC60-60-Kit-Plastic-Case-Switches-Plate-Led-Stabilizers-for-60-Standard-ANSI-Mechanical-Keyboard/32629156371.html
it says they don't have the Satan PCB's, but the KC60 PCB's. however, they note that these should work exactly the same.
does anyone have experience with the KC60 PCB's?
2x3x4 leds are what I use. Just grab those from Ali if you're getting that package
Sent from my local payphone
thanks, the package actually includes LED's, so I will just go with those. now to choose between white and green LED's. planning to do a dark grey case, with light grey keys and dark green modifiers. might put in a red ESC button.
well, going of track now.
I would definitely recommend white leds. greens suck imo. not very bright.
There are always sip sockets. You solder once and can hot swap leds in and out. If you do want green, I'd recommend cyan, as they are alot brighterHi everyone,Both should allow for leds and should be an easy entry to customs. These boards have had random issues here and there but nothing a return wouldn't fix. My board was perfectly fine when I got it.
I am going to build my first ever mechanical keyboard, and I think I am going for the Satan PCB with Gateron Switches.
will this PCB allow for an easy first time experience and does it support LED's? also, what kind of LED's should I get?
at the moment thinking about just buying this package;
http://www.aliexpress.com/item/Customized-KC60-60-Kit-Plastic-Case-Switches-Plate-Led-Stabilizers-for-60-Standard-ANSI-Mechanical-Keyboard/32629156371.html
it says they don't have the Satan PCB's, but the KC60 PCB's. however, they note that these should work exactly the same.
does anyone have experience with the KC60 PCB's?
2x3x4 leds are what I use. Just grab those from Ali if you're getting that package
Sent from my local payphone
thanks, the package actually includes LED's, so I will just go with those. now to choose between white and green LED's. planning to do a dark grey case, with light grey keys and dark green modifiers. might put in a red ESC button.
well, going of track now.
I would definitely recommend white leds. greens suck imo. not very bright.
thanks for confirming, I was mainly thinking about white because I don't feel like resoldering everything when wanting to change the color-theme of my keyboard. :-\
What leds do I need to use to make it glow underneath?!
Sent from my LG-H830 using Tapatalk
Can I do and a underneath and still have leds going to the switch?What leds do I need to use to make it glow underneath?!
Sent from my LG-H830 using Tapatalk
assuming you got the version that has pads on the bottomShow Image(http://i.imgur.com/Z5VKoxo.jpg)
pick one, dont use both or they will be dim
I'd like to know this too. I have a second satan kit coming with a clear case, would be cool to light that up too.That's what I'm hoping to do with mine, I want purple smd leds underneath and I would like white I believe 3mm leds to light up the caps!
Can I do and a underneath and still have leds going to the switch?What leds do I need to use to make it glow underneath?!
Sent from my LG-H830 using Tapatalk
assuming you got the version that has pads on the bottomShow Image(http://i.imgur.com/Z5VKoxo.jpg)
pick one, dont use both or they will be dim
Sent from my LG-H830 using Tapatalk
So you can one have one or the other ?Can I do and a underneath and still have leds going to the switch?What leds do I need to use to make it glow underneath?!
Sent from my LG-H830 using Tapatalk
assuming you got the version that has pads on the bottomShow Image(http://i.imgur.com/Z5VKoxo.jpg)
pick one, dont use both or they will be dim
Sent from my LG-H830 using Tapatalk
Like I said in my post, if you use both they will be dim, or may not even work at all.
So you can one have one or the other ?Can I do and a underneath and still have leds going to the switch?What leds do I need to use to make it glow underneath?!
Sent from my LG-H830 using Tapatalk
assuming you got the version that has pads on the bottomShow Image(http://i.imgur.com/Z5VKoxo.jpg)
pick one, dont use both or they will be dim
Sent from my LG-H830 using Tapatalk
Like I said in my post, if you use both they will be dim, or may not even work at all.
Sent from my LG-H830 using Tapatalk
Calm down just askingSo you can one have one or the other ?Can I do and a underneath and still have leds going to the switch?What leds do I need to use to make it glow underneath?!
Sent from my LG-H830 using Tapatalk
assuming you got the version that has pads on the bottomShow Image(http://i.imgur.com/Z5VKoxo.jpg)
pick one, dont use both or they will be dim
Sent from my LG-H830 using Tapatalk
Like I said in my post, if you use both they will be dim, or may not even work at all.
Sent from my LG-H830 using Tapatalk
DUDE? YES for the love of god
DUDE? YES for the love of god
So you can one have one or the other ?
Or just install a ****ing desk lamp like an adult...
Then what's the screen for?
Quick question. I am building a second 60% with this board. I am going to put SMD LEDs on the underside as I have a clear plastic case for it. Can the SMD LEDs be controlled the same was as the through hole LEDs on the top? I am only going to use SMD LEDs on the underside only.
Yes sip sockets work for hotswapping the led.. but it takes quite a bit of effort to solder them on. on the regular gateron or cherry switch. u usually insert the LED into the hole and solder to the board.. but if you want to use sip socket you can choose to remove the switch top half and put into the sip sockets.There are always sip sockets. You solder once and can hot swap leds in and out. If you do want green, I'd recommend cyan, as they are alot brighterHi everyone,Both should allow for leds and should be an easy entry to customs. These boards have had random issues here and there but nothing a return wouldn't fix. My board was perfectly fine when I got it.
I am going to build my first ever mechanical keyboard, and I think I am going for the Satan PCB with Gateron Switches.
will this PCB allow for an easy first time experience and does it support LED's? also, what kind of LED's should I get?
at the moment thinking about just buying this package;
http://www.aliexpress.com/item/Customized-KC60-60-Kit-Plastic-Case-Switches-Plate-Led-Stabilizers-for-60-Standard-ANSI-Mechanical-Keyboard/32629156371.html
it says they don't have the Satan PCB's, but the KC60 PCB's. however, they note that these should work exactly the same.
does anyone have experience with the KC60 PCB's?
2x3x4 leds are what I use. Just grab those from Ali if you're getting that package
Sent from my local payphone
thanks, the package actually includes LED's, so I will just go with those. now to choose between white and green LED's. planning to do a dark grey case, with light grey keys and dark green modifiers. might put in a red ESC button.
well, going of track now.
I would definitely recommend white leds. greens suck imo. not very bright.
thanks for confirming, I was mainly thinking about white because I don't feel like resoldering everything when wanting to change the color-theme of my keyboard. :-\
Sent from my local payphone
I understand what you mean. They do take quite some time. But if you think you will swap leds a half dozen times on its life, it's a washYes sip sockets work for hotswapping the led.. but it takes quite a bit of effort to solder them on. on the regular gateron or cherry switch. u usually insert the LED into the hole and solder to the board.. but if you want to use sip socket you can choose to remove the switch top half and put into the sip sockets.There are always sip sockets. You solder once and can hot swap leds in and out. If you do want green, I'd recommend cyan, as they are alot brighterHi everyone,Both should allow for leds and should be an easy entry to customs. These boards have had random issues here and there but nothing a return wouldn't fix. My board was perfectly fine when I got it.
I am going to build my first ever mechanical keyboard, and I think I am going for the Satan PCB with Gateron Switches.
will this PCB allow for an easy first time experience and does it support LED's? also, what kind of LED's should I get?
at the moment thinking about just buying this package;
http://www.aliexpress.com/item/Customized-KC60-60-Kit-Plastic-Case-Switches-Plate-Led-Stabilizers-for-60-Standard-ANSI-Mechanical-Keyboard/32629156371.html
it says they don't have the Satan PCB's, but the KC60 PCB's. however, they note that these should work exactly the same.
does anyone have experience with the KC60 PCB's?
2x3x4 leds are what I use. Just grab those from Ali if you're getting that package
Sent from my local payphone
thanks, the package actually includes LED's, so I will just go with those. now to choose between white and green LED's. planning to do a dark grey case, with light grey keys and dark green modifiers. might put in a red ESC button.
well, going of track now.
I would definitely recommend white leds. greens suck imo. not very bright.
thanks for confirming, I was mainly thinking about white because I don't feel like resoldering everything when wanting to change the color-theme of my keyboard. :-\
Sent from my local payphone
else you can dremel out the bottom of the led holes using a 3mm drill bit and solder on all the sip sockets first then mount the switches later. i opted for the second approach in case I had a dead switch u don't need to remove the sip sockets but can unsolder the switch and remove directly.
and it's quite a hard push to get the led in without bending the legs.
took me a good 6hrs to get all the above done .
Sent from my MI NOTE LTE using Tapatalk
else you can dremel out the bottom of the led holes using a 3mm drill bit and solder on all the sip sockets first then mount the switches later. i opted for the second approach in case I had a dead switch u don't need to remove the sip sockets but can unsolder the switch and remove directly.
Yes sip sockets work for hotswapping the led.. but it takes quite a bit of effort to solder them on. on the regular gateron or cherry switch. u usually insert the LED into the hole and solder to the board.. but if you want to use sip socket you can choose to remove the switch top half and put into the sip sockets.There are always sip sockets. You solder once and can hot swap leds in and out. If you do want green, I'd recommend cyan, as they are alot brighterHi everyone,Both should allow for leds and should be an easy entry to customs. These boards have had random issues here and there but nothing a return wouldn't fix. My board was perfectly fine when I got it.
I am going to build my first ever mechanical keyboard, and I think I am going for the Satan PCB with Gateron Switches.
will this PCB allow for an easy first time experience and does it support LED's? also, what kind of LED's should I get?
at the moment thinking about just buying this package;
http://www.aliexpress.com/item/Customized-KC60-60-Kit-Plastic-Case-Switches-Plate-Led-Stabilizers-for-60-Standard-ANSI-Mechanical-Keyboard/32629156371.html
it says they don't have the Satan PCB's, but the KC60 PCB's. however, they note that these should work exactly the same.
does anyone have experience with the KC60 PCB's?
2x3x4 leds are what I use. Just grab those from Ali if you're getting that package
Sent from my local payphone
thanks, the package actually includes LED's, so I will just go with those. now to choose between white and green LED's. planning to do a dark grey case, with light grey keys and dark green modifiers. might put in a red ESC button.
well, going of track now.
I would definitely recommend white leds. greens suck imo. not very bright.
thanks for confirming, I was mainly thinking about white because I don't feel like resoldering everything when wanting to change the color-theme of my keyboard. :-\
Sent from my local payphone
else you can dremel out the bottom of the led holes using a 3mm drill bit and solder on all the sip sockets first then mount the switches later. i opted for the second approach in case I had a dead switch u don't need to remove the sip sockets but can unsolder the switch and remove directly.
and it's quite a hard push to get the led in without bending the legs.
took me a good 6hrs to get all the above done .
that was why I predrilled the holes on the switches for the sip to be able to slip thru without a need to unsolder them if I need to change out a switch. it also saves the need to remove the top half of the switch to put in the sip socket. I'm contemplating to assemble a 3rd keyboard by getting the magicforce board. cost more than the satan gh60 clone but I think it is worth getting dedicated arrow keys.Yes sip sockets work for hotswapping the led.. but it takes quite a bit of effort to solder them on. on the regular gateron or cherry switch. u usually insert the LED into the hole and solder to the board.. but if you want to use sip socket you can choose to remove the switch top half and put into the sip sockets.There are always sip sockets. You solder once and can hot swap leds in and out. If you do want green, I'd recommend cyan, as they are alot brighterHi everyone,Both should allow for leds and should be an easy entry to customs. These boards have had random issues here and there but nothing a return wouldn't fix. My board was perfectly fine when I got it.
I am going to build my first ever mechanical keyboard, and I think I am going for the Satan PCB with Gateron Switches.
will this PCB allow for an easy first time experience and does it support LED's? also, what kind of LED's should I get?
at the moment thinking about just buying this package;
http://www.aliexpress.com/item/Customized-KC60-60-Kit-Plastic-Case-Switches-Plate-Led-Stabilizers-for-60-Standard-ANSI-Mechanical-Keyboard/32629156371.html
it says they don't have the Satan PCB's, but the KC60 PCB's. however, they note that these should work exactly the same.
does anyone have experience with the KC60 PCB's?
2x3x4 leds are what I use. Just grab those from Ali if you're getting that package
Sent from my local payphone
thanks, the package actually includes LED's, so I will just go with those. now to choose between white and green LED's. planning to do a dark grey case, with light grey keys and dark green modifiers. might put in a red ESC button.
well, going of track now.
I would definitely recommend white leds. greens suck imo. not very bright.
thanks for confirming, I was mainly thinking about white because I don't feel like resoldering everything when wanting to change the color-theme of my keyboard. :-\
Sent from my local payphone
else you can dremel out the bottom of the led holes using a 3mm drill bit and solder on all the sip sockets first then mount the switches later. i opted for the second approach in case I had a dead switch u don't need to remove the sip sockets but can unsolder the switch and remove directly.
and it's quite a hard push to get the led in without bending the legs.
took me a good 6hrs to get all the above done .
I'll probably never go SIP sockets again. Took me forever to disassemble each switch and put them in and then if I have to ever remove a switch getting all the solder out of the SIP socket slots is difficult so that switch is stuck in there quite tight. Its easier to just desolder a broken LED if needed and figure out what kind of lighting you want beforehand.
that was why I predrilled the holes on the switches for the sip to be able to slip thru without a need to unsolder them if I need to change out a switch. it also saves the need to remove the top half of the switch to put in the sip socket. I'm contemplating to assemble a 3rd keyboard by getting the magicforce board. cost more than the satan gh60 clone but I think it is worth getting dedicated arrow keys.Yes sip sockets work for hotswapping the led.. but it takes quite a bit of effort to solder them on. on the regular gateron or cherry switch. u usually insert the LED into the hole and solder to the board.. but if you want to use sip socket you can choose to remove the switch top half and put into the sip sockets.There are always sip sockets. You solder once and can hot swap leds in and out. If you do want green, I'd recommend cyan, as they are alot brighterHi everyone,Both should allow for leds and should be an easy entry to customs. These boards have had random issues here and there but nothing a return wouldn't fix. My board was perfectly fine when I got it.
I am going to build my first ever mechanical keyboard, and I think I am going for the Satan PCB with Gateron Switches.
will this PCB allow for an easy first time experience and does it support LED's? also, what kind of LED's should I get?
at the moment thinking about just buying this package;
http://www.aliexpress.com/item/Customized-KC60-60-Kit-Plastic-Case-Switches-Plate-Led-Stabilizers-for-60-Standard-ANSI-Mechanical-Keyboard/32629156371.html
it says they don't have the Satan PCB's, but the KC60 PCB's. however, they note that these should work exactly the same.
does anyone have experience with the KC60 PCB's?
2x3x4 leds are what I use. Just grab those from Ali if you're getting that package
Sent from my local payphone
thanks, the package actually includes LED's, so I will just go with those. now to choose between white and green LED's. planning to do a dark grey case, with light grey keys and dark green modifiers. might put in a red ESC button.
well, going of track now.
I would definitely recommend white leds. greens suck imo. not very bright.
thanks for confirming, I was mainly thinking about white because I don't feel like resoldering everything when wanting to change the color-theme of my keyboard. :-\
Sent from my local payphone
else you can dremel out the bottom of the led holes using a 3mm drill bit and solder on all the sip sockets first then mount the switches later. i opted for the second approach in case I had a dead switch u don't need to remove the sip sockets but can unsolder the switch and remove directly.
and it's quite a hard push to get the led in without bending the legs.
took me a good 6hrs to get all the above done .
I'll probably never go SIP sockets again. Took me forever to disassemble each switch and put them in and then if I have to ever remove a switch getting all the solder out of the SIP socket slots is difficult so that switch is stuck in there quite tight. Its easier to just desolder a broken LED if needed and figure out what kind of lighting you want beforehand.
Could anyone help me? recently just got the satan gh60 and tested it before soldering the keys on, which worked perfectly fine. Now, the G, B, \, and Backspace keys aren't working. Any ideas?
Got the keys working, just some bad soldering. Does anyone still have the config/other stuffs from a0-c for the rgb mod? it was all removed on github.
Yea I got the qmk files and saw some stuff on the rgb, sadly my layers 90% of the time don't work and the rgb lights aren't turning on either. Was hoping for some help with that.
Got the layers working properly, but tried multiple times with reflashing to get the rgb strip to work with no luck. I have it enabled in the makefile, correct pin in the config, and the keybinds in the keymap, but the strip just wont turn on. Any ideas?
Never got any lighting from the strip, and the strip wasn't on the back of the pcb yet, just hanging off temporarily, so I don't think that was the problem. Just removed the rgb strip and now my computer wont recognize the keyboard and I can't reflash the firmware due to not being able to enter bootloader mode.
The button on the pcb didn't work, but actually reconnecting the pin to the strip let me enter bootloader again. Still no luck getting the lights turned on. Completely out of ideas now.
Already had the drivers downloaded from zadig and if I wasn't clear, the button started to work again once the rgb strip was connected to the pin again. Heres some pics of my bad soldering http://imgur.com/a/kG0aG and I also put some electric tape on the back temporarily. I plan on prettying it up once I get it working.
I know the strip isn't dead as it has accidently turned on from a wire touching a pin accidently on the chip. Just removed most of the solder and redid it so the cable isn't touching any other component or the pin next to it. Still no luck getting the rgb strip to turn on
Heres my folder and I am just using the default keymap.
Can I see your makefile/config? Still no luck with your keymap and tried a new strip aswell and didn't turn on either. More than likely my pin is bad on the chip so I'll have to change it. Just wanna see what you had for your config first before I do.
Hi you all.
I'm having problems with my Satan board and I could use your help.
This is my first custom board, I had no previous experience soldering or flashing firmwares to keyboards, I'm a total noob regarding this. I managed to solder everything and surprisingly everything worked first try. I have been using the board with the default layout and everything worked fine, fn layer, LEDs... Now I decided to flash my own layout using this guide: https://imgur.com/a/rfezG
I followed every step and, after finishing, the keyboard does not input anything, the LEDs work though. I changed the location of the fn key and it is working in it's new location so I believe I did flash something at least, but other than the LEDs nothing works.
I read this thread and googled a little bit and could not find a solution. I tried upgrading the drivers using zadig (I read it in another thread) but I had no idea what I was doing and I might have screwed it up even more.
Any help on what to do from here will be much appreciated since before this I was loving the board :(
Hi you all.
I'm having problems with my Satan board and I could use your help.
This is my first custom board, I had no previous experience soldering or flashing firmwares to keyboards, I'm a total noob regarding this. I managed to solder everything and surprisingly everything worked first try. I have been using the board with the default layout and everything worked fine, fn layer, LEDs... Now I decided to flash my own layout using this guide: https://imgur.com/a/rfezG
I followed every step and, after finishing, the keyboard does not input anything, the LEDs work though. I changed the location of the fn key and it is working in it's new location so I believe I did flash something at least, but other than the LEDs nothing works.
I read this thread and googled a little bit and could not find a solution. I tried upgrading the drivers using zadig (I read it in another thread) but I had no idea what I was doing and I might have screwed it up even more.
Any help on what to do from here will be much appreciated since before this I was loving the board :(
Can you share your layout?
Sorry, I edited my comment while you were replying.If you open device manager, find the device, uninstall, press the button on the back of the Satan, then install Zadig, it will work
I think I know what the problem is, it's not the layout. I think I accidentally replaced the PCB driver for WinUSB while I was messing around with zadig and that's what causing the problem. To be honest I don't really know much (or anything) about drivers but do you know how could I have the original driver back?
If you open device manager, find the device, uninstall, press the button on the back of the Satan, then install Zadig, it will workHi you all.
I'm having problems with my Satan board and I could use your help.
This is my first custom board, I had no previous experience soldering or flashing firmwares to keyboards, I'm a total noob regarding this. I managed to solder everything and surprisingly everything worked first try. I have been using the board with the default layout and everything worked fine, fn layer, LEDs... Now I decided to flash my own layout using this guide: https://imgur.com/a/rfezG
I followed every step and, after finishing, the keyboard does not input anything, the LEDs work though. I changed the location of the fn key and it is working in it's new location so I believe I did flash something at least, but other than the LEDs nothing works.
I read this thread and googled a little bit and could not find a solution. I tried upgrading the drivers using zadig (I read it in another thread) but I had no idea what I was doing and I might have screwed it up even more.
Any help on what to do from here will be much appreciated since before this I was loving the board :(
Can you share your layout?
Sorry, I edited my comment while you were replying.
I think I know what the problem is, it's not the layout. I think I accidentally replaced the PCB driver for WinUSB while I was messing around with zadig and that's what causing the problem. To be honest I don't really know much (or anything) about drivers but do you know how could I have the original driver back?
Thanks, but its a little confusing. In my device manager I have four instances of "HID Keyboard Device" under the "Keyboards" tab, and one called "GH60" under "Universal Serial Bus devices", I uninstalled all of them. Then when pressing the button there is a new one called "ATm32U4DFU" that I uninstalled as well just in case but it still not works after replugging. On the zadig software appear 5 instances of GH60, with interfaces from 0 to 4 and all of them have the HidUsb driver except the one on Interface 0 that has WinUSB driver. I think that's the one I changed by accident and it should be HidUsb like the others but I don't know what else to unninstall to make it go back :(You should just need to clear the atmega one, and reinstall. Also make sure there are no spaces in your hex file
Sorry if I'm not being very clear but this is a bit confusing to me, and thank you very much for the help.
You should just need to clear the atmega one, and reinstall. Also make sure there are no spaces in your hex fileIf you open device manager, find the device, uninstall, press the button on the back of the Satan, then install Zadig, it will workHi you all.
I'm having problems with my Satan board and I could use your help.
This is my first custom board, I had no previous experience soldering or flashing firmwares to keyboards, I'm a total noob regarding this. I managed to solder everything and surprisingly everything worked first try. I have been using the board with the default layout and everything worked fine, fn layer, LEDs... Now I decided to flash my own layout using this guide: https://imgur.com/a/rfezG
I followed every step and, after finishing, the keyboard does not input anything, the LEDs work though. I changed the location of the fn key and it is working in it's new location so I believe I did flash something at least, but other than the LEDs nothing works.
I read this thread and googled a little bit and could not find a solution. I tried upgrading the drivers using zadig (I read it in another thread) but I had no idea what I was doing and I might have screwed it up even more.
Any help on what to do from here will be much appreciated since before this I was loving the board :(
Can you share your layout?
Sorry, I edited my comment while you were replying.
I think I know what the problem is, it's not the layout. I think I accidentally replaced the PCB driver for WinUSB while I was messing around with zadig and that's what causing the problem. To be honest I don't really know much (or anything) about drivers but do you know how could I have the original driver back?
Thanks, but its a little confusing. In my device manager I have four instances of "HID Keyboard Device" under the "Keyboards" tab, and one called "GH60" under "Universal Serial Bus devices", I uninstalled all of them. Then when pressing the button there is a new one called "ATm32U4DFU" that I uninstalled as well just in case but it still not works after replugging. On the zadig software appear 5 instances of GH60, with interfaces from 0 to 4 and all of them have the HidUsb driver except the one on Interface 0 that has WinUSB driver. I think that's the one I changed by accident and it should be HidUsb like the others but I don't know what else to unninstall to make it go back :(
Sorry if I'm not being very clear but this is a bit confusing to me, and thank you very much for the help.
I don't know if doing something wrong but it doesn't fix it.What I'm saying is you need to press that button before you install the Zadig driver. You only needed to uninstall it that one time
I press the button on the back of the pcb, go into the device manager, search for a ATm32U4DFU, select uninstall and check the box "Delete the driver software for this device" and when I plug it again it seems to install the drivers again but when I check they are the same and it still not works.
I don't know if doing something wrong but it doesn't fix it.What I'm saying is you need to press that button before you install the Zadig driver. You only needed to uninstall it that one time
I press the button on the back of the pcb, go into the device manager, search for a ATm32U4DFU, select uninstall and check the box "Delete the driver software for this device" and when I plug it again it seems to install the drivers again but when I check they are the same and it still not works.
Well, I have no idea how but I fixed it, and without using Zadig, I unplugged everything but the board from my pc, restarted windows and uninstalled it from the device manager a lot of times and at some point it started working again.
Thank you Moistgun, I hope the keyboard karma rewards you greatly.
Hi guys. I've gotten my GH60 Satan hooked up and programmed, but I've hit one big issue I can't seem to resolve, it might just be me looking at this from the wrong angle.
I have three layers. FN0 and FN1 are pretty much stock, QWERTY on FN0 and all the other stuff on FN1 that's triggered by hitting the FN button next to RALT. So far so good.
I've added a third layer, this is toggled on and off by hitting the caps lock button, this is FN2 (this is my hardware Dvorak layer). When this is toggled ON everything is swell, except when I want to use the FN1 layer by using the FN button it ONLY works when there's nothing mapped in the FN2 layer, e.g. FN + A will still be left arrow, because it's transparent in FN2, but FN + D will only type an 'E', and not "override" the FN1 layer completely.
In short: I want the FN1 layer to override my current layout even when I'm in an ON state on the FN2 layer.
I'm sure FN button works when I'm in FN2 because everything that is transparent in FN2 works fine.
Hello,
I have a question about the Satan :)
A seller told me its not ISO compatible, I find it hard to believe ... is it possible?
Not sure if I post the right thread but can't find anything else. I ordered gh60 satan but received this:Well, it could be the right thread, but it's hard to say from that picture. I suspect you're an early receiver of a PCB from a new Satan batch, which (as always) is tweaked JUST enough that some setting has to be changed for the firmware to fit the board.Show Image(https://s28.postimg.org/cvujhy54d/IMG_20161212_194224413.jpg)
It has labels 'gh60 rev 2.3' and 'SJZZ'. The problem is when I generate eep at tkg.io and then flash it with kairuy's toolkit I have a column '5tgv' not working. Exactly the same as described here: https://deskthority.net/keyboards-f2/flashing-fw-on-a-gh60-hx-sjzz-columns-missing-t13639.html (https://deskthority.net/keyboards-f2/flashing-fw-on-a-gh60-hx-sjzz-columns-missing-t13639.html)
Any advice would be helpfull
Not sure if I post the right thread but can't find anything else. I ordered gh60 satan but received this:Show Image(https://s28.postimg.org/cvujhy54d/IMG_20161212_194224413.jpg)
It has labels 'gh60 rev 2.3' and 'SJZZ'. The problem is when I generate eep at tkg.io and then flash it with kairuy's toolkit I have a column '5tgv' not working. Exactly the same as described here: https://deskthority.net/keyboards-f2/flashing-fw-on-a-gh60-hx-sjzz-columns-missing-t13639.html (https://deskthority.net/keyboards-f2/flashing-fw-on-a-gh60-hx-sjzz-columns-missing-t13639.html)
Any advice would be helpfull
Hello,
I have a question about the Satan :)
A seller told me its not ISO compatible, I find it hard to believe ... is it possible?
Yes.Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/WoFDutg.jpg)
I'm thinking about turning my ANSI US keyboard into an ISO Spanish one but in Easy AVR I don't see any available ISO GH60 (Satan) default layout, just HHKB, POKER and PURE, all in ANSI layout. Does anyone know how to set up an ISO layout in a GH60 (Satan) using Easy AVR? How else can it be done?
That did the trick. I set the big |\ above the Enter to nothing, ignored the top right key, set the key to left of the Enter to NON_US_HASHMARK and set the key to left to the Z to NON_US_BACKSLASH. Everything looks good so far. I now need an ISO Spanish keycap set.I'm thinking about turning my ANSI US keyboard into an ISO Spanish one but in Easy AVR I don't see any available ISO GH60 (Satan) default layout, just HHKB, POKER and PURE, all in ANSI layout. Does anyone know how to set up an ISO layout in a GH60 (Satan) using Easy AVR? How else can it be done?
Use the 'all keys' variant, ISO enter is where the bottom half should be and the key next to it is the Ioextra ISO key. the big |/ key won't have a switch so just ignore it.
Also if you don't have a split backspace ignore the top right key :thumb:
No, the error will be on one of those keys, so you just have to find the point where there's no connection.
Ok for someone who is just getting into Mechanical Keyboards, building my own sounds amazing! Definitely put building a GH60 on my To-Do list :D! Does anybody have a good overview of all the parts needed and where to order them?
Wow, I can see why they call this PCB a "Satan"... It just looks satanic, doesn't it? Well, it could be red too, that'd enhance the effect. But it does look sinister, like it's made of bones or something. If I had one of these under my keys, I don't think I'd be able to calm down enough to type—I'd keep expecting my PC to become possessed.
On the other hand, why should we settle for PCBs with non-demonic names? How boring.
(Attachment Link)
Lordy! Feets don't fail me now!
Not sure if I post the right thread but can't find anything else. I ordered gh60 satan but received this:Show Image(https://s28.postimg.org/cvujhy54d/IMG_20161212_194224413.jpg)
It has labels 'gh60 rev 2.3' and 'SJZZ'. The problem is when I generate eep at tkg.io and then flash it with kairuy's toolkit I have a column '5tgv' not working. Exactly the same as described here: https://deskthority.net/keyboards-f2/flashing-fw-on-a-gh60-hx-sjzz-columns-missing-t13639.html (https://deskthority.net/keyboards-f2/flashing-fw-on-a-gh60-hx-sjzz-columns-missing-t13639.html)
Any advice would be helpfull
Hi all, just build a KB using this pcb yesterday and everything went well.
I've tried using the TMK firmware with no issues and have flashed a temporary setup for me to use now but I'm thinking of reworking it to more of my liking and have a few questions.
I'm currently on a KBT pure, and one of the features of the KBT pure is that I can permanently "turn on" the arrow keys with fn + spacebar. And then the right modifier cluster becomes an arrow cluster until I turn it off with fn+space again.
Is it possible to do something like that? Maybe not fn + space but maybe just LeftWin for example. I'm currently having a little trouble understanding what everything means in the fn part at tkg.io.
For normal function layers where you press fn + W to get up arrow for example, you set the fn button to layer action -> momentarily. I'm thinking if I want to have the function layer permanently on until I turn it off, I use Layer action > on, and then choose which layer I want to access? Also, can someone explain to me the "when" part, where it says release, press, and both? I imagine it means to turn on during the press and the release, but for both? Also, what does layer > off and Layer > toggle do?
Lastly, Can someone explain the LED section to me? Like what does binding, default layer, layer, indicator mean?
I've tried reading the help online but it doesn't really explain all these. Perhaps I'm missing something. If someone can direct me to a link that explains these, that would be much appreciated as well.
Cheers!
Not sure if I post the right thread but can't find anything else. I ordered gh60 satan but received this:Show Image(https://s28.postimg.org/cvujhy54d/IMG_20161212_194224413.jpg)
It has labels 'gh60 rev 2.3' and 'SJZZ'. The problem is when I generate eep at tkg.io and then flash it with kairuy's toolkit I have a column '5tgv' not working. Exactly the same as described here: https://deskthority.net/keyboards-f2/flashing-fw-on-a-gh60-hx-sjzz-columns-missing-t13639.html (https://deskthority.net/keyboards-f2/flashing-fw-on-a-gh60-hx-sjzz-columns-missing-t13639.html)
Any advice would be helpfull