Author Topic: The Living Soldering Thread  (Read 1854592 times)

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Offline CPTBadAss

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Re: The Living Soldering Thread
« Reply #400 on: Wed, 26 June 2013, 13:28:06 »
Thanks. In that light, maybe I will consider getting a desoldering pump instead of a wick.

FWIW, I have a desoldering bulb like what WFD uses in his Ergo-Clear mod video. I have had zero luck with getting the pumps (Soldapults) to work. I find the bulbs and the wicks to work better than the pumps.

And I used to work at an internship where I soldered/desoldered daily for hours.

Offline Photoelectric

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Re: The Living Soldering Thread
« Reply #401 on: Wed, 26 June 2013, 13:33:58 »
the industrial SOLDER FUME EXTRACTOR units are largely made to extract money from factories and labs that need to get ISO certified. they do the job, because if they didn't you couldn't get certification, but they're usually overkill and SO SO EXPENSIVE

More
filtration 101 (abbrev):

self-contained filtering of gases and liquids consist of exactly two components. 1) a pump. 2) a filter. it is exactly that simple. pumps are pumps. in gases we typically use axial fans or centrifugal blowers/turbines. in liquids, we do exactly the same thing but with more torque :)). filters come in exactly two varieties: chemical and mechanical.

an example of a mechanical filter is a paper HEPA filter. HEPA N is a standard that says that a filter media (the paper), when put in some exact laboratory situation with a blower, will act as a particle diameter low pass filter with efficiency N. that is, at least N percent of the low-diameter particles will stop at the filter, the rest can go through. this is measured over some period of time in an airtight chamber, with a specification blower, i believe, but feel free to correct me on that.

hence, mechanical filters physical block particulates above a certain effective diameter with a certain efficiency.

note that there is no standardized testing committee that certifies hepa filters THAT I KNOW OF. i imagine there is some authorized set of ISO testers. i don't really know and don't own a factory so i don't care.

a chemical filter is a medium which _neutralizes_ airborne chemical compounds via some kind of reaction (hereafter rx). the rx is open, the bandwidth of compounds is open, and the meaning of neutralize is open. i am not familiar with any standards that apply to this action.

however, typically, the kinds of things that people worry about (that are bad for one's lungs to breathe) are organic compounds, because our lungs aren't very good at dealing with those for reasons i don't particularly care to understand (probably because we're made of carbon so they stick to our little oxygen absorber thingamajigs). by definition, an organic compound which can be vaporized and become airborne is called a volatile organic compound (VOC). recall that organic compounds are all compounds that contain the element carbon. hence, what we are worried about is airborne contaminants which have carbon somewhere in their chemical construction. hence, we've come up with a fantastic way to neutralize them. we produce more carbon, negatively charge it, and give it lots of surface area, and then pass the air over it. ta-da! some poor charcoal has taken the blow and had to become attached to this nasty compound instead of our lungs. NEUTRALIZED *****. there is a standard for this, because it's actually incredibly effective, and there are tons of organic compounds which are very nasty carcinogens. also lung cancer ****ing sucks, it grows quickly and kills you in the most painful possible way.

another type of chemical filter is a silver mesh. for reasons i can't remember at all, silver does nasty things to cell walls, so if you're a small enough airborn micro-organism and your cell wall is of a garden variety (tuberculosis and many other microorgs have weird hardened cell membranes), contact with the silver might kill you. again, no standardized testing really.

SOLDER FUMES:

are all fumes from the flux burning. the metal in the solder is very heavy and we don't solder at high enough temperatures to vaporize it (like 900K). rosin flux burns to a remarkably harmless compound which i can't remember at all, but is picked up most effectively by a chemical filter. hence, i'm going out now to buy 40lbs of ionized charcoal pellets. BYE EVERYONE!

Sounds like you just need a gasmask :)
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Offline grips

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Re: The Living Soldering Thread
« Reply #402 on: Wed, 26 June 2013, 13:37:22 »
nice to have both if you don't have a dedicated electromechanical unit like the hakko 808. i don't desolder a lot so i'm good with just an edsyn soldapullt classic and a couple widths of rosin wick, but ymmv. easy to clean solder off. get ****-grade iso alcohol from the drug store. costs a buck. find an old toothbrush - free. scrub board with toothbrush and alcohol. done

You're right, it's pretty cheap. I will probably grab a wick as well. I don't plan on doing much desoldering, but I plan to make some mistakes.

Thanks. In that light, maybe I will consider getting a desoldering pump instead of a wick.

FWIW, I have a desoldering bulb like what WFD uses in his Ergo-Clear mod video. I have had zero luck with getting the pumps (Soldapults) to work. I find the bulbs and the wicks to work better than the pumps.

And I used to work at an internship where I soldered/desoldered daily for hours.

Thanks, I may pick that one up as it is fairly cheap. Hard to know what to get without having tried everything.

Offline SpAmRaY

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Re: The Living Soldering Thread
« Reply #403 on: Wed, 26 June 2013, 13:44:12 »
Anybody try the hakko bit multipacks found on ebay that come from china?

Offline tjcaustin

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Re: The Living Soldering Thread
« Reply #404 on: Wed, 26 June 2013, 13:55:48 »
Anybody try the hakko bit multipacks found on ebay that come from china?

I think the_beast has

Offline mkawa

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Re: The Living Soldering Thread
« Reply #405 on: Wed, 26 June 2013, 14:02:12 »
as long as you put something on there that conducts heat and does not warp the pencil barrel, you should be good. the only trick is that each tip will have its own thermal profile and ideally requires calibration of the regulator. then again, we've already covered the ghetto method of calibration earlier (10: turn temp up, does solder flow? if not, GOTO 10).

gas masks are just filters that use your lungs as the pump.

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Offline Parak

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Re: The Living Soldering Thread
« Reply #406 on: Wed, 26 June 2013, 15:17:52 »
the industrial SOLDER FUME EXTRACTOR units are largely made to extract money from factories and labs that need to get ISO certified. they do the job, because if they didn't you couldn't get certification, but they're usually overkill and SO SO EXPENSIVE

Yep, definitely overkill and expensive. But while activated charcoal by itself is sufficient, there is research that suggests that a HEPA postfilter can offer some additional benefit (and wouldn't hurt anyway). The foam type activated charcoal is definitely useless:

link

Note that as per this flux fumes can definitely be harmful. But as per the link above, the ability to effectively draw them away from your face is just as important as its ability to filter.

Offline mkawa

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Re: The Living Soldering Thread
« Reply #407 on: Wed, 26 June 2013, 19:21:48 »
the industrial SOLDER FUME EXTRACTOR units are largely made to extract money from factories and labs that need to get ISO certified. they do the job, because if they didn't you couldn't get certification, but they're usually overkill and SO SO EXPENSIVE

Yep, definitely overkill and expensive. But while activated charcoal by itself is sufficient, there is research that suggests that a HEPA postfilter can offer some additional benefit (and wouldn't hurt anyway). The foam type activated charcoal is definitely useless:

link

the foam type is just foam dyed black. seriously. it's foam that they dip in water with some carbon powder in it so that it comes out black. useless. yes, a paper media filter can never hurt. but if you're DIYing, don't think you need to go buy a paper media filter and figure out how to get your contraption to flow through it. literally flowing air through strong bags full of charcoal is basically as effective. one point to mention about hepa mechanical filters is that they produce a really large amount of backpressure (unless, of course, they don't work!).

Quote
Note that as per this flux fumes can definitely be harmful. But as per the link above, the ability to effectively draw them away from your face is just as important as its ability to filter.
assuming you're in a sufficiently aerated space. i happen to not be actually, so i be filling garbage bags full of carbon.

« Last Edit: Wed, 26 June 2013, 19:23:21 by mkawa »

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Offline mkawa

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Re: The Living Soldering Thread
« Reply #408 on: Wed, 26 June 2013, 19:25:29 »
it occurs to me that one cool option is a diy air to fluid transfer mechanism. think bong but fill the water exchange part of the thing with charcoal, and of course, use a real pump, not your lungs. the air to liquid transfer slow the vocs WAY DOWN and exposes them to _all_ of the surface area of your charcoal. plus, it would look insanely cool.

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Offline The_Beast

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Re: The Living Soldering Thread
« Reply #409 on: Wed, 26 June 2013, 19:30:36 »
What about this:


With the 99.7 hepa filters? or a military surplus gas mask?


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Offline mkawa

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Re: The Living Soldering Thread
« Reply #410 on: Wed, 26 June 2013, 19:36:28 »
tdlr from above. hepa is a particulate standard. soldering gives off VOCs, not much in the way of particulates.

to all the brilliant friends who have left us, and all the students who climb on their shoulders.

Offline Photoelectric

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Re: The Living Soldering Thread
« Reply #411 on: Wed, 26 June 2013, 20:53:26 »
These finally arrived, and I successfully desoldered Filco LEDs, which were a pain due to the tiny solder-filled holes.  But that braid was quite nice.  I had to put some solder onto the soldering iron tip, and then press the tip against the braid.  Cleaned up the PCB with alcohol afterwards--nice and clean.  Was very satisfying!  I ordered another 5' section of the braid and yet another cut of the solder--just in case. 

I've got everything for my ergo-Clear mod now, just need to wait for the new steel universal TKL plates to start shipping...  Hope that won't be a terribly long wait. 
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Offline grips

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Re: The Living Soldering Thread
« Reply #412 on: Wed, 26 June 2013, 21:12:44 »
These finally arrived, and I successfully desoldered Filco LEDs, which were a pain due to the tiny solder-filled holes.  But that braid was quite nice.  I had to put some solder onto the soldering iron tip, and then press the tip against the braid.  Cleaned up the PCB with alcohol afterwards--nice and clean.  Was very satisfying!  I ordered another 5' section of the braid and yet another cut of the solder--just in case. 

I've got everything for my ergo-Clear mod now, just need to wait for the new steel universal TKL plates to start shipping...  Hope that won't be a terribly long wait.

Good to hear that everything worked out well. I'm excited for my orders to arrive, although I still have a while to wait for the ergodox to ship. Maybe I can find something to solder around the house.

Offline stoic-lemon

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Re: The Living Soldering Thread
« Reply #413 on: Wed, 26 June 2013, 21:21:39 »
I have have a soldering related question that is totally keyboard unrelated.

My friend has a necklace she broke and wants repaired. Would it be possible to solder this back together? It is very small. Do you think it would hold up even if one could repair it in the first place? I'm afraid I'm not sure what it is made out of.

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Offline mkawa

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Re: The Living Soldering Thread
« Reply #414 on: Thu, 27 June 2013, 00:27:31 »
yes and no. you don't use electronics solder for that, and you need to repair the mechanical break first. she needs to bring it to a jeweler

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Offline stoic-lemon

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Re: The Living Soldering Thread
« Reply #415 on: Thu, 27 June 2013, 00:33:03 »
Thank you! I'll let her know.

Offline Thimplum

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Re: The Living Soldering Thread
« Reply #416 on: Thu, 27 June 2013, 14:39:26 »
never solder when you're tired.

Haha! So true.
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Offline Defying

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Re: The Living Soldering Thread
« Reply #417 on: Thu, 27 June 2013, 15:44:43 »
This is probably the wrong place for this, but I'm planning on buying a soldering iron and the requirements soon to replace switches on my QFR.

What would I need without going overboard on price? I'm looking to spend a little under $100 for everything.
I'm currently looking at the WLC100 and the desoldering bulb from RadioShack, but the solder and whatever else I need is where I'm lost.

Thanks!

Offline Photoelectric

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Re: The Living Soldering Thread
« Reply #418 on: Thu, 27 June 2013, 18:03:20 »
This is probably the wrong place for this, but I'm planning on buying a soldering iron and the requirements soon to replace switches on my QFR.

What would I need without going overboard on price? I'm looking to spend a little under $100 for everything.
I'm currently looking at the WLC100 and the desoldering bulb from RadioShack, but the solder and whatever else I need is where I'm lost.

Thanks!

Check out the stuff I got: http://geekhack.org/index.php?topic=42824.msg933875#msg933875

Plus I also got the desoldering iron from RadioShack.  The total was WELL below $100, and it's been working well so far.
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Offline grips

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Re: The Living Soldering Thread
« Reply #419 on: Thu, 27 June 2013, 18:53:28 »
This is probably the wrong place for this, but I'm planning on buying a soldering iron and the requirements soon to replace switches on my QFR.

What would I need without going overboard on price? I'm looking to spend a little under $100 for everything.
I'm currently looking at the WLC100 and the desoldering bulb from RadioShack, but the solder and whatever else I need is where I'm lost.

Thanks!

Check out the stuff I got: http://geekhack.org/index.php?topic=42824.msg933875#msg933875

Plus I also got the desoldering iron from RadioShack.  The total was WELL below $100, and it's been working well so far.

Have you had a chance to use the desoldering iron as well? How does it compare to the wick?

Offline Photoelectric

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Re: The Living Soldering Thread
« Reply #420 on: Thu, 27 June 2013, 18:56:24 »
The desoldering iron was kind of hard to use.  I got pretty inconsistent amounts of solder socked in, especially if there was solder  deeper within the holes (which is a "feature" of Filco boards, they advertise having solder going all the way through the PCB onto the other side, and it's one of those lead-free solders too, so harder to melt).  I think I prefer the desoldering braid for greater control.  I'll still use the desoldering iron, but if I get frustrated with it in the process, I'll switch to the braid.
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Offline actionbastard

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Re: The Living Soldering Thread
« Reply #421 on: Thu, 27 June 2013, 20:42:54 »
I got my FX888D today and oh man, it is sweet.
I've been stuck using a weller soldering gun with a huge tip for the longest time.

Today I rewired my headphones, wanted a lighter and longer cord, the station made everything so quick in comparison, well, maybe that and I've soldered a few things here and there since I started.

Definitely worth the dosh, can't wait for the ergodox to come.
« Last Edit: Thu, 27 June 2013, 23:40:32 by actionbastard »
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Offline Defying

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Re: The Living Soldering Thread
« Reply #422 on: Thu, 27 June 2013, 20:59:25 »
This is probably the wrong place for this, but I'm planning on buying a soldering iron and the requirements soon to replace switches on my QFR.

What would I need without going overboard on price? I'm looking to spend a little under $100 for everything.
I'm currently looking at the WLC100 and the desoldering bulb from RadioShack, but the solder and whatever else I need is where I'm lost.

Thanks!

Check out the stuff I got: http://geekhack.org/index.php?topic=42824.msg933875#msg933875

Plus I also got the desoldering iron from RadioShack.  The total was WELL below $100, and it's been working well so far.
Awesome! I'll definitely look into buying these soon, the pricing for all of that is perfect.

Thanks for the help!

Offline TD22057

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Re: The Living Soldering Thread
« Reply #423 on: Thu, 27 June 2013, 23:09:27 »
I did a bunch of soldering last night w/ my new Hakko FX-888 and I have to say it's awesome.  I never realized how annoying my old cheap soldering irons were until I used the Hakko.  It heats up incredibly fast and the temperature control is fantastic.  I soldered 40 pins onto my teensy++ in rapid succession and every pin took the same amount of time to melt the solder.  My cheap irons would have required waiting for them to heat back up and watching carefully to see when the solder melts for each pin.  I can't believe I waited this long to get a nice iron...

Offline dorkvader

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Re: The Living Soldering Thread
« Reply #424 on: Sat, 29 June 2013, 00:10:05 »
So I just soldered up another ergoDOX, and I must say I'm getting better at those diodes. Noe thing that made the most difference was getting some tweezers. They make positioning the diode and holding it steady during soldering really easy! The tweezers were borrowed from my co-worker (we use them to extract broken off headphone jacks) so I'm going to order some ESD safe tweezers for myself now.

Offline bpiphany

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Re: The Living Soldering Thread
« Reply #425 on: Sat, 29 June 2013, 01:57:46 »
Don't buy the plastic ones. They melt... My favorites are a pair in titanium. I don't think they are ESD safe, conductive of course, and you should be grounded yourself anyway for anything to be ESD safe...

I believe these are the ones I have http://www.digikey.com/product-detail/en/18037TT/243-1081-ND/1953884

Offline mkawa

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Re: The Living Soldering Thread
« Reply #426 on: Sat, 29 June 2013, 02:01:02 »
wiha makes some extremely nice ones in tool steel that are actually esd safe (plated). about 20 dollars a piece, but will last a lifetime used properly.

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Offline bpiphany

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Re: The Living Soldering Thread
« Reply #427 on: Sat, 29 June 2013, 02:11:00 »
Titanium is naturally non-magnetic I think, which is nice, and quite non-corrosive. And the ones I have serrated grips, and ridges on the grip section.

You don't need the very pointiest tweezers if you aren't going to do very small stuff. I think mine are perfect for the 0603s I usually do with them. Needle point ones bend easy and poke you in the eyes...

Offline The_Beast

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Re: The Living Soldering Thread
« Reply #428 on: Sat, 29 June 2013, 02:20:45 »
I bought a $4 pair of steel super fine tweezers


Should I feel bad?
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Offline bpiphany

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Re: The Living Soldering Thread
« Reply #429 on: Sat, 29 June 2013, 02:23:14 »
Not if you like them =) There is always use for super fine as well. You can never have enough tweezers...

Offline nubbinator

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Re: The Living Soldering Thread
« Reply #430 on: Sat, 29 June 2013, 02:28:16 »
I bought a $4 pair of steel super fine tweezers


Should I feel bad?

Nope, you should be stoked that they were only $4.

Edit:  Spelling eludes me at night.
« Last Edit: Sat, 29 June 2013, 02:34:26 by nubbinator »

Offline The_Beast

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Re: The Living Soldering Thread
« Reply #431 on: Sat, 29 June 2013, 02:31:28 »
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Offline nubbinator

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Re: The Living Soldering Thread
« Reply #432 on: Sat, 29 June 2013, 02:35:12 »
I'm good with my cheapo anti-static ones I grabbed off of Amazon right now, but thanks for the link.

Offline mkawa

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Re: The Living Soldering Thread
« Reply #433 on: Sat, 29 June 2013, 07:56:46 »
Titanium is naturally non-magnetic I think, which is nice, and quite non-corrosive. And the ones I have serrated grips, and ridges on the grip section.

You don't need the very pointiest tweezers if you aren't going to do very small stuff. I think mine are perfect for the 0603s I usually do with them. Needle point ones bend easy and poke you in the eyes...
well you don't point them at eyes unless you really dislike the people you're point at. yeesh!


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Offline Aranair

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Re: The Living Soldering Thread
« Reply #434 on: Sat, 29 June 2013, 08:21:57 »
mmm, quick question: what setting should I be using the WLC100 at? I remember seeing this somewhere but can't seem to find it anymore D:

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Offline Photoelectric

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Re: The Living Soldering Thread
« Reply #435 on: Sat, 29 June 2013, 10:44:31 »
mmm, quick question: what setting should I be using the WLC100 at? I remember seeing this somewhere but can't seem to find it anymore D:

Depends on for what solder and the task.  On setting "3", I was able to melt hard-to-melt solder on my Filco PCB.  Just start low and turn up the dial gradually until you reach the temperature range needed to do your soldering, and avoid going much higher.
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Offline Dubsgalore

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Re: The Living Soldering Thread
« Reply #436 on: Sun, 30 June 2013, 13:56:37 »
Now that it's summer things have been toned down a bit and i have more time and now some cash on my side for once xD

anyways, ive saved some up for some equipment, and i want to get into the soldering game.

there is a hobby shop near my current job, so i'm going to head over there in a bit to look to see what they have. if they don't have what i need, i'll order online i guess.

any advice on what to look for when at that hobby shop?

Offline Poom

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Re: The Living Soldering Thread
« Reply #437 on: Tue, 02 July 2013, 06:55:20 »
hey, this may be a stupid question, but hey I ask dumb questions all the time, so here is another one.

buying a cheap soldering iron, though i understand that ideally it would be better to buy one with temparature control. but how bad can be buying a simple cheap one be?

would it burn the PCB? or taking a break after a few minutes because it will overheat? etc?

by the way I saw a battery powered soldering iron. is that a good idea or staying out of it?

Thanks for the input.

Offline bueller

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Re: The Living Soldering Thread
« Reply #438 on: Tue, 02 July 2013, 07:23:39 »
Picked up a cheap soldering iron and some tools to get my skills back up to scratch after a 10 year break. Realising just how useless the $15 irons from hardware stores really are, it's been a pain in the neck de-soldering all the switches on my M0115. Will be investing in an FX888 next week along with a pack of 200 switches from Matias for my first custom  ;D
« Last Edit: Tue, 02 July 2013, 07:26:02 by bueller »
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Offline Poom

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Re: The Living Soldering Thread
« Reply #439 on: Tue, 02 July 2013, 07:47:07 »
umm.. i think ill pick up a soldering station then. but just to make sure would solder thickness of 0.5mm and 0.5mm tip do the job?

another thing, how hot should it be? around 150 degress celcius or 200?

Thanks

Offline mkawa

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Re: The Living Soldering Thread
« Reply #440 on: Tue, 02 July 2013, 07:59:30 »
here are the melting point of common soldering alloys. keep in mind that you have to locally bring both ends of a solder joint up to these temperatures to complete a solder joint.

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Solder

to all the brilliant friends who have left us, and all the students who climb on their shoulders.

Offline Photoelectric

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Re: The Living Soldering Thread
« Reply #441 on: Tue, 02 July 2013, 08:06:37 »
When soldering in switches, to avoid cold solder joints, do I need to heat up a switch pin AND the metal ring around the hole that the pin protrudes through?  Or is it sufficient to heat the pin and let solder melt around it into the hole?  If the former, I need to invest into a thinner soldering iron tip than my Weller WC100 came stock with.

Also worried about flux residue from desoldering getting into the holes on the PCB.  Is it best to desolder and resolder right away--or better to clean the PCB thoroughly with alcohol, getting into every hole as much as possible, before resoldering?  I wonder about any impurities being stuck on the inner surfaces of the PCB holes where switch pins and LED pins will be connected.
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Offline tgujay

  • Posts: 316
  • Location: Kalamazoo
Re: The Living Soldering Thread
« Reply #442 on: Tue, 02 July 2013, 08:45:08 »
Picked up a cheap soldering iron and some tools to get my skills back up to scratch after a 10 year break. Realising just how useless the $15 irons from hardware stores really are, it's been a pain in the neck de-soldering all the switches on my M0115. Will be investing in an FX888 next week along with a pack of 200 switches from Matias for my first custom  ;D

Really the radio shack $15 desoldering iron is the best thing when desoldering a ton of switches.  Completely desoldered my WYSE last night in about a half hour, and that was with taking breaks between rows to put the switches in my phantom plate to see how it looks :)
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Offline Poom

  • Posts: 138
  • Location: Seoul, Korea
Re: The Living Soldering Thread
« Reply #443 on: Tue, 02 July 2013, 09:02:17 »
I want one of that desoldering iron too but we dont have Radio Shack in Europe.... >:D

and only lead free solder....

Offline actionbastard

  • Posts: 57
  • Location: California
Re: The Living Soldering Thread
« Reply #444 on: Tue, 02 July 2013, 09:28:31 »
Speaking of tweezers I just got these in the mail.

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00BG8WW2Y/ref=oh_details_o01_s00_i00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

They seem really solid, and really freaking sharp. They come with caps for the ends.
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Offline mkawa

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Re: The Living Soldering Thread
« Reply #445 on: Tue, 02 July 2013, 09:56:05 »
those look pretty good. and they're cheap enough that if they do start failing you just replace them. not bad! i've purchased quite a few useful little things from uxcell before...

to all the brilliant friends who have left us, and all the students who climb on their shoulders.

Offline damorgue

  • Posts: 1176
  • Location: Sweden
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Re: The Living Soldering Thread
« Reply #446 on: Tue, 02 July 2013, 10:48:41 »
I got these a while back and they have worked fine:
http://dx.com/p/lodestar-anti-static-tweezer-tilted-pointy-tip-7042
http://dx.com/p/lodestar-professional-anti-static-tweezers-pointy-tip-7000
Cheapo chinese stuff but they always have free international shipping and their stuff usually works good enough.

Does anyone have any recommendations regarding amount of flux in the solder? What is suitable for PCB work, larger cables, SMD etc? Is it ever recommended that you use flux-free solder and apply it yourself or not at all? Most solder I have seen are in the 1.2% to 2% interval.

Edit: I have never bothered enough to care about which solder I use as I have never encountered it buut I figured I might as well try to get the most suitable.

Offline actionbastard

  • Posts: 57
  • Location: California
Re: The Living Soldering Thread
« Reply #447 on: Tue, 02 July 2013, 11:25:03 »
Huh, they look like the same tweezers.  ^-^
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Offline mkawa

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Re: The Living Soldering Thread
« Reply #448 on: Tue, 02 July 2013, 13:07:19 »
I got these a while back and they have worked fine:
http://dx.com/p/lodestar-anti-static-tweezer-tilted-pointy-tip-7042
http://dx.com/p/lodestar-professional-anti-static-tweezers-pointy-tip-7000
Cheapo chinese stuff but they always have free international shipping and their stuff usually works good enough.

Does anyone have any recommendations regarding amount of flux in the solder? What is suitable for PCB work, larger cables, SMD etc? Is it ever recommended that you use flux-free solder and apply it yourself or not at all? Most solder I have seen are in the 1.2% to 2% interval.

Edit: I have never bothered enough to care about which solder I use as I have never encountered it buut I figured I might as well try to get the most suitable.
especially with modern no-clean, you can never have too much flux (that stuff is such crap...). it would be too hard to get flux-free solder to flow onto a joint, as oxidization is pretty much instantaneous and the solder needs to bond to the metal under the oxidized layer.

to all the brilliant friends who have left us, and all the students who climb on their shoulders.

Offline actionbastard

  • Posts: 57
  • Location: California
Re: The Living Soldering Thread
« Reply #449 on: Tue, 02 July 2013, 17:50:41 »
I have a sort of related question to soldering..

Does anyone know what the plastic looking tools are called that pry stuff apart (keyboards so I can solder them?) without breaking the clips?

I've had to use a plastic puddy knife to take a laptop apart, looking for something more professional for the next time.
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