Not in the list, but would love a TKL plate if that's possible.
Just wondering, is a FC660C layout possible, and would there be compatibility issues with Topre boards?
Not sure if serious or trolling.
I can send the 40% plate design, if The_Beast wants to allow it, but it doesn't seem hopeful. :)
Is there any reason I should get a Poker plate over a universal plate?
Is there any reason I should get a Poker plate over a universal plate?
What layout are you looking to make? That's what will determine what plate layout you'd like.
Is there any reason I should get a Poker plate over a universal plate?
What layout are you looking to make? That's what will determine what plate layout you'd like.
Sorry, what I meant to ask was this:
I want to use Poker layout. Is there any downside to using a universal ansi plate for poker layout?
Is there any reason I should get a Poker plate over a universal plate?
What layout are you looking to make? That's what will determine what plate layout you'd like.
Sorry, what I meant to ask was this:
I want to use Poker layout. Is there any downside to using a universal ansi plate for poker layout?
You MUST use Cherry PCB-mount stabilizers, and CANNOT use plate-mount stabilizers of either the Cherry or Costar variety.
6 of 9 plate spots taken by people interested in the IC
6 of 9 plate spots taken by people interested in the IC
My pants are tight. I need some GH60 PCB lovin.
Does this mean the switch tools mentioned in the interest check thread are a no-go?switch tools will be a different thread, but there will switch tools. many many switch tools.
The_Beast and I are going for highest valued 60% keyboard :p
ah no!, any idea how long until second round? Was watching this for weeks since the start of the interest check. Keyboard remains in pieces :(.
ah no!, any idea how long until second round? Was watching this for weeks since the start of the interest check. Keyboard remains in pieces :(.
You can take over my slot. The_Beast, please move me down to the second tier.
I've already got stainless steel Poker plates, and since this would be for the GH60 anyway, I'm in no rush.
Am I missing an invoice or have they just not been done yet? :)
ok, we've talked about the possibility of using more material and we want to proceed slowly here. we'll run the first batch through, send the plates and tools out and see how everything goes. there _is_ more material on deck, but we're going to hold most of it back until we're pretty sure that everything will go smoothly.
Added images to second post.
Does anyone need the hole to the right of Caps Lock for the LED? If so, I can revise the drawing(s) for you. Please let me know.
also updated so everyone has paid. If you could get the other 3 images up, that would be great :D
Added images to second post.
Does anyone need the hole to the right of Caps Lock for the LED? If so, I can revise the drawing(s) for you. Please let me know.
Added images to second post.
Does anyone need the hole to the right of Caps Lock for the LED? If so, I can revise the drawing(s) for you. Please let me know.
Added images to second post.
Does anyone need the hole to the right of Caps Lock for the LED? If so, I can revise the drawing(s) for you. Please let me know.
Also, looking at my poker 2 plate in front of me.... the cutout between the two spacebar stabs (which goes through the space bar switch) bisects the stabs on my board. Your drawings have it raised upwards slightly. My ISO poker 2 keyboard has a small LED each side of the spacebar which are OK as they just poke through the straight cut section between the stabs. Any chance of that being changed too? The cut between the stabs kind of lines up with the screw hole to the right of the spacebar section.
Hope that explains it or would a picture/photo help?
@JDCarpe,
could I be a pain and ask you to make my plate have the larger slot to allow for either normal and off centre caps lock? I have found a stash of PCB mount switches so I can use one for this position. Beast will need to be updated with new drawing if so.
Many Thanks
@JDCarpe,
could I be a pain and ask you to make my plate have the larger slot to allow for either normal and off centre caps lock? I have found a stash of PCB mount switches so I can use one for this position. Beast will need to be updated with new drawing if so.
Many Thanks
This has been done, sir. New image in 2nd post.
Thank you :) That's fantastic!
Kawa has shipped the plate. If you have any changes, make them now! I'll be sending in plate files in on Monday. That means I might be able to get the plates cut this week and pick them up since I'm back home for spring break
Laser guy called, he tested out the laser on the cherry tools. They're coming out great!
However, when cutting one of the plates, the sheet got bumped and that plate is messed up. HOWEVER, there is still enough on the sheet to get all 8 plates (at this moment, subject to change).
Laser guy called, he tested out the laser on the cherry tools. They're coming out great!
However, when cutting one of the plates, the sheet got bumped and that plate is messed up. HOWEVER, there is still enough on the sheet to get all 8 plates (at this moment, subject to change).
Laser guy called, he tested out the laser on the cherry tools. They're coming out great!
However, when cutting one of the plates, the sheet got bumped and that plate is messed up. HOWEVER, there is still enough on the sheet to get all 8 plates (at this moment, subject to change).
Im super excited for the titanium switch tools. Is there a rough estimate on how many sets are being produced?
What is the etiquette when working with someone in this scenario where they messed up the materials on accident or through machine error? Does it vary per company or do they give a discount or make the item again free if you send more materials?
So the damage isn't so bad for that one plate.
Hopefully, the rest come out well.
I'm excited.
Got an invoice today for 8 plates and 65 tools! Should be dropped off soonish by the cutter and sent to me
Is there some sort of list for the tools? Put my name in the ic thread for them and undersrand people ordering plates have priority. Really interested tho for my upcomming sprit board I am building.
Got an invoice today for 8 plates and 65 tools! Should be dropped off soonish by the cutter and sent to me
please register interest for going on deck for plates if you want one. i have another piece of material in hand and ready to send to the cutter if/when the_beast feels ready to bring in the people on deck.
Interest registered. I'm really curious about how easy titanium is to paint, but will probably get 1 or 2 regardless.afaik it takes paint like any other metal. there's nothing really that unique about the chemistry. it's highly pure unalloyed titanium. you will need to prep it like any other metal to take primer, but once you get the primer down you're painting on the primer not the metal.
Awesome, I'm glad they came out well!
However, is there a chance that the order was placed incorrectly? I'm only seeing one of the "danielucf layout" from the OP, which I assume is JD's because it has his name carved out of it :))
In particular, it looks like only one was made with the universal backspace when Daniel, JD, and me were all signed up for the same layout.
Wow! Jdcarpe got his name on it! wow!
How hard will it be to remove the extra metal for two 1x keys compatibility? Honestly I'll probably just put a 2x backspace on it and call it a day.
How hard will it be to remove the extra metal for two 1x keys compatibility? Honestly I'll probably just put a 2x backspace on it and call it a day.
I'm also interested in this :). I'd really love 1x compatibility, since I've basically fallen in love with the true HHKB layout.
If it's difficult to remove the extra metal cleanly, I'd personally be okay waiting for round two – I'm not in any hurry, and if this run was any indication, there's no shortage of people looking for a plate with this particular layout.
How hard will it be to remove the extra metal for two 1x keys compatibility? Honestly I'll probably just put a 2x backspace on it and call it a day.
I'm also interested in this :). I'd really love 1x compatibility, since I've basically fallen in love with the true HHKB layout.
If it's difficult to remove the extra metal cleanly, I'd personally be okay waiting for round two – I'm not in any hurry, and if this run was any indication, there's no shortage of people looking for a plate with this particular layout.
I couldn't really say. I've never sanded/filed titanium
Looks like my plate was one that got "bumped." The switch holes in rows don't line up exactly around the F-G and V-B area. Any chance he can re-cut that plate? I don't think it will be usable. :(
How hard will it be to remove the extra metal for two 1x keys compatibility? Honestly I'll probably just put a 2x backspace on it and call it a day.
I'm also interested in this :). I'd really love 1x compatibility, since I've basically fallen in love with the true HHKB layout.
If it's difficult to remove the extra metal cleanly, I'd personally be okay waiting for round two – I'm not in any hurry, and if this run was any indication, there's no shortage of people looking for a plate with this particular layout.
I couldn't really say. I've never sanded/filed titanium
If you have concerns about it, I'd really be fine waiting for R2 and you could just make this plate available for someone who wants this layout now. To be honest, one of the reasons I was excited for this was for the aesthetics of it (silly, I know) and I'd prefer to avoid obvious blemishes that might occur from filing :). But I have no experience with it, so you might be able to make it look awesome anyways.
Looks like my plate was one that got "bumped." The switch holes in rows don't line up exactly around the F-G and V-B area. Any chance he can re-cut that plate? I don't think it will be usable. :(
I doubt it, It's going to be even hard to secure compared to the 12" x 48" plate it was cut from.
Looks like my plate was one that got "bumped." The switch holes in rows don't line up exactly around the F-G and V-B area. Any chance he can re-cut that plate? I don't think it will be usable. :(
I doubt it, It's going to be even hard to secure compared to the 12" x 48" plate it was cut from.
Actually, I meant can he re-cut the plate from blank stock. That's a manufacturing defect.
Looks like my plate was one that got "bumped." The switch holes in rows don't line up exactly around the F-G and V-B area. Any chance he can re-cut that plate? I don't think it will be usable. :(
I doubt it, It's going to be even hard to secure compared to the 12" x 48" plate it was cut from.
Actually, I meant can he re-cut the plate from blank stock. That's a manufacturing defect.
What blank stock? 8 plates were nested with 3-5" each side to be used to secure the sheet during cutting of the plates. This 3-5" was then used to cut switch tools since if I lost these, it wouldn't be as important and it's not nearly as much cutting time.
So the one sheet mkawa sent has been totally used. There is no other ti sheets at the cutter right now.
Looks like my plate was one that got "bumped." The switch holes in rows don't line up exactly around the F-G and V-B area. Any chance he can re-cut that plate? I don't think it will be usable. :(
I doubt it, It's going to be even hard to secure compared to the 12" x 48" plate it was cut from.
Actually, I meant can he re-cut the plate from blank stock. That's a manufacturing defect.
What blank stock? 8 plates were nested with 3-5" each side to be used to secure the sheet during cutting of the plates. This 3-5" was then used to cut switch tools since if I lost these, it wouldn't be as important and it's not nearly as much cutting time.
So the one sheet mkawa sent has been totally used. There is no other ti sheets at the cutter right now.
Okay, so I just lose my $75, due to the manufacturer screwing up when he tried to cut it...
I'm cool with waiting on more stock from mkawa, if that's what it takes, but I won't be able to use that plate at all. You shouldn't have to pay the cutter for a defective product, is what I'm saying.
- Since my laser guy hasn't cut titanium, I'm not 100% sure how they will turn out. Therefore, if they don't come out, I will not be refunding anything. I have full confidence in my laser guy, but if they don't come out, they don't come out.
- Enter this Gb at your own discretion. I also reserve the right to deny entry/sale
- If you have any concerns, ask them BEFORE giving payment!
There were risks stated in the OP, but it was heavily implied that those risks were around the cutter being able to cut Ti. He can obviously cut Ti, but mistakes were made that were fully within his control. Mkawa has also suggested that more material is available.
Looks like my plate was one that got "bumped." The switch holes in rows don't line up exactly around the F-G and V-B area. Any chance he can re-cut that plate? I don't think it will be usable. :(
I doubt it, It's going to be even hard to secure compared to the 12" x 48" plate it was cut from.
Actually, I meant can he re-cut the plate from blank stock. That's a manufacturing defect.
What blank stock? 8 plates were nested with 3-5" each side to be used to secure the sheet during cutting of the plates. This 3-5" was then used to cut switch tools since if I lost these, it wouldn't be as important and it's not nearly as much cutting time.
So the one sheet mkawa sent has been totally used. There is no other ti sheets at the cutter right now.
Okay, so I just lose my $75, due to the manufacturer screwing up when he tried to cut it...
I'm cool with waiting on more stock from mkawa, if that's what it takes, but I won't be able to use that plate at all. You shouldn't have to pay the cutter for a defective product, is what I'm saying.
Hate to pull this, but this is CLEARLY in the OP. I'm sorry you're plate didn't turn out, but the risks are clearly stated in the OP as well as in the PM I sent when collecting payment.- Since my laser guy hasn't cut titanium, I'm not 100% sure how they will turn out. Therefore, if they don't come out, I will not be refunding anything. I have full confidence in my laser guy, but if they don't come out, they don't come out.
- Enter this Gb at your own discretion. I also reserve the right to deny entry/sale
- If you have any concerns, ask them BEFORE giving payment!
If there is no chance for a Round 2, I'd appreciate it if you'd sell my plate to one of the folks who didn't make it into the first round, and then refund my fee. I unfortunately don't want a plate without the universal backspace and I'd prefer that it not be filed down.
Or, alternately, a vendor on this site could act accoring to the VToS. Just because they partnered with a forum admin in this instance doesn't make them exempt from following the rules.
I've decided not to transfer my plate order to anyone. I'll take it as-is.
I'm still trying to come up with some lemonade for jdcarpe...can anyone think of anything cool to do with it? Is it salvageable? If someone comes up with a cool idea for it, I'll certainly consider buying it.
I'm still trying to come up with some lemonade for jdcarpe...can anyone think of anything cool to do with it? Is it salvageable? If someone comes up with a cool idea for it, I'll certainly consider buying it.
wall decor?
however, i don't think that's a huge deal. first of all, the switch opening tabs aren't going to work with all mx-compatible switches. secondly, if you really want to open your switches constantly, just pcb mount them dudes.
however, i don't think that's a huge deal. first of all, the switch opening tabs aren't going to work with all mx-compatible switches. secondly, if you really want to open your switches constantly, just pcb mount them dudes.
Mkawa, switch opening tabs don't work for all mx switches? I thought the switch bodies/tops were identical between them :/ Just sliders and springs were different?
however, i don't think that's a huge deal. first of all, the switch opening tabs aren't going to work with all mx-compatible switches. secondly, if you really want to open your switches constantly, just pcb mount them dudes.
Mkawa, switch opening tabs don't work for all mx switches? I thought the switch bodies/tops were identical between them :/ Just sliders and springs were different?
Also often times MX Clears have issues on plates where you can open the switch housings without desoldering.
Also often times MX Clears have issues on plates where you can open the switch housings without desoldering.
Please explain. How does the stem type affect the switch housing exactly?
Also often times MX Clears have issues on plates where you can open the switch housings without desoldering.
Please explain. How does the stem type affect the switch housing exactly?
I think he was implying the switch could be pulled apart when removing a keycap? If that is indeed the case, I think my stainless TKL plates will be enough for my switch popping needs as I'm definitely going to be using clear stems in everything I build. I really only need 1 keyboard with switch popping ability so I can experiment with ergonomically weighted springs or other switch mods before I build "the next"tm keyboard :)
i've had damage to the contacts when i'm sloppy in opening any kind of switch. i don't think clear stems are more or less immune to this. it's really just a product of pushing your tool too far into the internals of the switch in my experience.
I've experience the entire housing coming up with MX Clears when I slide my cap puller all around the key and gently attempt to wiggle it off. GON even told me he didn't design his plates with the space required to remove housings while plate mounted because of clears. Not sure what it is that makes them hold better to keycaps than other switches, maybe the type of plastic used in the "clear" color? *shrug*
afaik all the stems are delrin/acetal. there are many different acetal resins, but if this is happening, it's more likely to be the shape of the stem than the material
interesting.
anyway, here's the status of R2: i have to get a titanium sheet to my grinder to start the cutting process. we're going to give it a superficial ground finish. it sounds like it won't take too much effort to get it ground to 16ga at the same time. we're also doing some test runs of aluminum sheet at the waterjet to gauge how much tolerance is OK for our application.
Pictures of the plates are up. By having plates in hand, I was fully able to assess the situation. From the first pictures it looked like some of the plates were cut with the incorrect layout. This proved not to be the fact. There are 2 "danielucf plate".
Jds plate however is still messed up. I'll be working things out with the cutter and JD. His plate will more than likely be sold to cover and repair costs. So if you're in the market for a one of a kind Ti switch lube station....
I don't know what that is.
Pictures of the plates are up. By having plates in hand, I was fully able to assess the situation. From the first pictures it looked like some of the plates were cut with the incorrect layout. This proved not to be the fact. There are 2 "danielucf plate".
Jds plate however is still messed up. I'll be working things out with the cutter and JD. His plate will more than likely be sold to cover and repair costs. So if you're in the market for a one of a kind Ti switch lube station....
I don't know what that is.
I don't know what that is.
super potato?
Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/JbPZ523.jpg)
#hype
life is too short to worry about a little bit of metal dudes! make stuff!
anyway, here's the status of R2: i have to get a titanium sheet to my grinder to start the cutting process. we're going to give it a superficial ground finish. it sounds like it won't take too much effort to get it ground to 16ga at the same time. we're also doing some test runs of aluminum sheet at the waterjet to gauge how much tolerance is OK for our application.
I apologize if this was mentioned earlier, but will these be shipping soon?
I apologize if this was mentioned earlier, but will these be shipping soon?
As soon as I get 6-7 sets of switch tools sanded and ready to ship so that the people in the plate buy could, if they wanted tools, get them so I don't have to ship twice. It's also another bonus for those who ordered plates.
Also, #endhype, I talked to someone in the metals department and had the switch tools media polished/tumbled. They turned out ok, it's still a dull and uneven finish on the surface, but the edges are broken and the serration from the laser is less pronounced.
Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/ptXDBcK.jpg)
You are most likely using the wrong media for titanium in your tumbler. That or you need to go to a multi step process for finishing. The media that is in there now is for finishing. You need a more aggressive media more then likely. If you want a shinier finish then you would use the media you have now after you use the initial more aggressive media. I have no suggestions for media for titanium since I mostly deal with tumbling aluminum and some steel, mostly 1018.
You are most likely using the wrong media for titanium in your tumbler. That or you need to go to a multi step process for finishing. The media that is in there now is for finishing. You need a more aggressive media more then likely. If you want a shinier finish then you would use the media you have now after you use the initial more aggressive media. I have no suggestions for media for titanium since I mostly deal with tumbling aluminum and some steel, mostly 1018.
Yup, I finally got the tools out of the shaker, it didn't really do much other than breaking the edge a bit. Sand paper worked a lot better to actually "polish" the faces and take away the laser cut edge.
I doubt there is any other media to use, and it took long enough as is.
You are most likely using the wrong media for titanium in your tumbler. That or you need to go to a multi step process for finishing. The media that is in there now is for finishing. You need a more aggressive media more then likely. If you want a shinier finish then you would use the media you have now after you use the initial more aggressive media. I have no suggestions for media for titanium since I mostly deal with tumbling aluminum and some steel, mostly 1018.
Yup, I finally got the tools out of the shaker, it didn't really do much other than breaking the edge a bit. Sand paper worked a lot better to actually "polish" the faces and take away the laser cut edge.
I doubt there is any other media to use, and it took long enough as is.
Oh i am sure there is media out there for it. It may be that even an aggressive media for steel would work ok for what you want. The problem is those stones are for sek finishing or finishing. They are used a lot in reloading. Throw all your brass in to clean it up for 8 hours or so and it comes out good as new. There are also compounds you can put in the water to help polish better.
Any news on shipping out the first round? They were cut a while ago :/. Are we maybe waiting for second round or something? or switch tools...seems like they're done/almost done?
i am picking up the second plate of raw (finished but uncut) material tomorrow.
Any news on shipping out the first round? They were cut a while ago :/. Are we maybe waiting for second round or something? or switch tools...seems like they're done/almost done?
I'm waiting on getting tools done. They need to be hand sanded, ground, checked and bent before I can ship them. The people who got plates get priority as a bonus but I have to get done with them first...
i am picking up the second plate of raw (finished but uncut) material tomorrow.
Pics of *raw* plates please!
My plate showed up. The laser work seems pretty good, but unfortunately the plate arrived pretty warped:
(Sorry for the ****ty pic)Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/5BhprfP.jpg)
Anyways, hopefully it can be straightened out somehow to make it useable. The middle of the plate is about 5mm raised.
Did all of the plates come out like this? Is there a chance it happened in shipping?
My plate showed up. The laser work seems pretty good, but unfortunately the plate arrived pretty warped:
(Sorry for the ****ty pic)Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/5BhprfP.jpg)
Anyways, hopefully it can be straightened out somehow to make it useable. The middle of the plate is about 5mm raised.
Did all of the plates come out like this? Is there a chance it happened in shipping?
That is very common with plates from The_Beast. It's from when he runs one side of the plate through the sander to remove the burrs, etc. You can just bend it straight by hand.
My plate showed up. The laser work seems pretty good, but unfortunately the plate arrived pretty warped:
(Sorry for the ****ty pic)Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/5BhprfP.jpg)
Anyways, hopefully it can be straightened out somehow to make it useable. The middle of the plate is about 5mm raised.
Did all of the plates come out like this? Is there a chance it happened in shipping?
That is very common with plates from The_Beast. It's from when he runs one side of the plate through the sander to remove the burrs, etc. You can just bend it straight by hand.
Thanks for the advice, JD.
snapping it in half requires about a 2 ton press. you're safe there.
Bump for question:
Is this buy associated at all with this?:
http://www.geekhackers.org/collections/keyboard-accessories/products/60-keyboard-titanium-switch-plates-with-notches-for-switch-disassembly
Because it doesn't seem like this buy is active anymore, and I just put in an order for that titanium plate. I don't want to be throwing money down a well if it's not going to get made.
If it is, and it's not being made anymore, I'm going to go ahead and cancel my order.
Bump for question:yah, i just have to collect enough orders to run a full sheet
Is this buy associated at all with this?:
http://www.geekhackers.org/collections/keyboard-accessories/products/60-keyboard-titanium-switch-plates-with-notches-for-switch-disassembly
Because it doesn't seem like this buy is active anymore, and I just put in an order for that titanium plate. I don't want to be throwing money down a well if it's not going to get made.
If it is, and it's not being made anymore, I'm going to go ahead and cancel my order.
Yes, geekhackers.orgHow many till a full sheet? ;p may order more than one.
Gogogo so we can get a full sheet faster.
You'll have to message Mkawa.Ok cheers for the help :))
I was considering adding a TKL plate as well, to fill up the sheet faster. Let me know what you find.
ISO Plate installedShow Image(http://i.imgur.com/ErdeT0k.jpg)
http://imgur.com/a/gBROA
I don't think those plates were 2mm thick. mkawa supplied the sanded titanium material to The_Beast to be lasered, so he would know. But they were suppose to be 1.5mm thick.
Huh, that's very strange.I don't think those plates were 2mm thick. mkawa supplied the sanded titanium material to The_Beast to be lasered, so he would know. But they were suppose to be 1.5mm thick.
Hmm, I just pulled mine back out of it's case and it measures 2.0mm. OP says it's .078" which is 1.98mm. Kinda bummed I bought this now. Seems silly to make a plate that can't correctly act as a plate.
I don't think those plates were 2mm thick. mkawa supplied the sanded titanium material to The_Beast to be lasered, so he would know. But they were suppose to be 1.5mm thick.
- Material
- 14 gauge/.078" CP4 grade (aerospace grade) titanium provided by mkawa (https://geekhack.org/index.php?action=profile;u=5606)
I don't think those plates were 2mm thick. mkawa supplied the sanded titanium material to The_Beast to be lasered, so he would know. But they were suppose to be 1.5mm thick.
Nope, kawa supplied 14 gauge ti- Material
- 14 gauge/.078" CP4 grade (aerospace grade) titanium provided by mkawa (https://geekhack.org/index.php?action=profile;u=5606)
The plate I have installed seems to work fine with the thicker plate
It "works" in the sense that it seems to stay put. But it's just held in place with friction. Switches wont snap in, nor will Costar stabilizers. The plate is too thick and the clips can't seat correctly causing the stabilizers to bind. I can work my way around the plate pushing it down and it will fall off of the switches and hit the PCB.