Dear fellow keyboard enthusiasts:
This is a thread to ask for your help on your expert input regarding a small and simple personal project. I know that it may not interest most as the layout is so unique; however, I would like to ask for your help on some of its common features, so I am hoping that some of you may take time to read, think and advice me.
It is my first attempt for a hand wired Keeb and I would like to make it as successful as a first try would be.
The Franken-Swedish idiosyncrasy.
The main idea behind using a Swedish layout is that it provides alt graph legends for most of the symbols required to write in English, French an Spanish in a more compact form than using US-International, that I used for a long time before. But when I became aware of the SW layout it was love at first sight. I know that it only saves three keys, the grave accented SW vowels that I do not use. Even though, there are some people promoting what they called FIN and SW International layouts for everyone, I am sure none would be interested in it. It is only that now I am using it for my 50, 60 and now I will be using it also in this upcoming FSW.
One column saved and left hand navigation keys.
A lateral benefit is that in this layout I can save one full column of alphas. The space saved will allow adding the left navigation keys with only one extra column compared with a sixty. The navigation mini block will have arrows and four navigation keys at the same standard position as any TKL and full size keyboard. This feature will allow the FSW to take any standard set. Actually, the only special modifier keys will be the 1.5 R3 backspace and 1u R1 delete. The last is available in OG AT sets and in most modern GMK sets. The short backspace is available in most modern sets as it is required for HHKB layouts.
I like other 65s but I always find annoying the strange arrangements of navigation keys in one column.
The project approach
I will use the postage board mini pcb with a simple wood or 3d printed case under the plate. I will make a plate with the Swill's tool and I will have it made by Lasergist.
The questions
I would like to have your input regarding the spacing around the key cap blocks, the use of Cherry vs Costar stabs, that the layout just need two, and if some led signal lights should be place somewhere. Also, the plate's edge padding is a big question.
Thank you very much for your contribution, as you are giving the most precious resource we have: Time.
LOG
20190905
I decided to document the evolution of the board. Each hand wired project is different so this may add a grain of salt to the already great repository of resources for this type of DIY's.
1. The first resource I used was the
keyboard layout editor to design the key board (Most of you guys know about it, but maybe for the newcomer this reference is not that obvious).
2. The tool for making a
3D render fuels my interest as it looks really good. It takes the KLE design as input directly and makes a nice 3D render that allows to have a feel on the layout.
3.
Swill's CAD tool for drawing a first rough version of the plate is also very useful. You can edit it later with any CAD software.
4. There are some small controller cards that may be suitable for keyboards. I decided to use the
LifeIsOnTheWire's postage board mini. It is a second iteration of the design of a PCB developed for keyboards that I think add functionality that no other similar controller card has yet, for this particular application.
5. Here is the FSW's father.
6. I want to use a batch of box switches I got from MD. They are suppose to be retooled ones, but I do not want to risk any of my caps. Do you know which stem-rework-tool is the best priced? I got my answer and the cruciforme, for example, is around 40 dollars. I can get over 100 Bronze switches for that amount, so now I am either, considering to buy new switches, or double check the pale blue ones that I already have.
20190909
7. On the layout I have reconsidered the custom size and I may use a 60 footprint instead. With a sixty footprint the board may use any sixty case. Only question that I have is if the hand wiring requires more room at the bottom.
I think that the layout confined in a sixty footprint is not a bad compromise.