Author Topic: Making my own keyboard case!  (Read 2041 times)

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Offline shampoomagician

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Making my own keyboard case!
« on: Thu, 12 February 2015, 19:51:56 »
So I just got the V60 a couple months ago and was wondering how easy/hard it would be to make my own case.  I figure that I can go the hardware (or glass) store and get a piece of acrylic sheeting that is the right size for my keyboard and just drill holes into the sheet, after some sanding and generally prettying up, using a smaller drill bit than the screw size, and then mount the keyboard right in.  Has anyone done this, looked into it?  Is it easy to do?  Should I find some stand offs to use instead of mounting it directly to the acrylic?

Offline swill

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Re: Making my own keyboard case!
« Reply #1 on: Thu, 12 February 2015, 21:42:53 »
So I just got the V60 a couple months ago and was wondering how easy/hard it would be to make my own case.  I figure that I can go the hardware (or glass) store and get a piece of acrylic sheeting that is the right size for my keyboard and just drill holes into the sheet, after some sanding and generally prettying up, using a smaller drill bit than the screw size, and then mount the keyboard right in.  Has anyone done this, looked into it?  Is it easy to do?  Should I find some stand offs to use instead of mounting it directly to the acrylic?
I have done both of what you said and I currently use a case like this on my home board. Check my minimal case and build log threads from my signature. Let me know if you have questions.

Offline shampoomagician

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Re: Making my own keyboard case!
« Reply #2 on: Fri, 13 February 2015, 12:49:08 »
So I just got the V60 a couple months ago and was wondering how easy/hard it would be to make my own case.  I figure that I can go the hardware (or glass) store and get a piece of acrylic sheeting that is the right size for my keyboard and just drill holes into the sheet, after some sanding and generally prettying up, using a smaller drill bit than the screw size, and then mount the keyboard right in.  Has anyone done this, looked into it?  Is it easy to do?  Should I find some stand offs to use instead of mounting it directly to the acrylic?
I have done both of what you said and I currently use a case like this on my home board. Check my minimal case and build log threads from my signature. Let me know if you have questions.
Hey, thanks for the guide link thingy, Do you think that the silicone foam and acrylic piece should be exactly the size of the board or could I potentially get away with making them a bit smaller, I basically just want it to look like no case.

Offline swill

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Re: Making my own keyboard case!
« Reply #3 on: Fri, 13 February 2015, 12:59:53 »
So I just got the V60 a couple months ago and was wondering how easy/hard it would be to make my own case.  I figure that I can go the hardware (or glass) store and get a piece of acrylic sheeting that is the right size for my keyboard and just drill holes into the sheet, after some sanding and generally prettying up, using a smaller drill bit than the screw size, and then mount the keyboard right in.  Has anyone done this, looked into it?  Is it easy to do?  Should I find some stand offs to use instead of mounting it directly to the acrylic?
I have done both of what you said and I currently use a case like this on my home board. Check my minimal case and build log threads from my signature. Let me know if you have questions.
Hey, thanks for the guide link thingy, Do you think that the silicone foam and acrylic piece should be exactly the size of the board or could I potentially get away with making them a bit smaller, I basically just want it to look like no case.
You could make it smaller, that would not be a problem. I actually skipped that completely with the board I am currently using. I just screwed the PCB directly to the acrylic back plate. Its the 75% board in my build log.

Offline shampoomagician

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Re: Making my own keyboard case!
« Reply #4 on: Fri, 13 February 2015, 13:05:16 »
So I just got the V60 a couple months ago and was wondering how easy/hard it would be to make my own case.  I figure that I can go the hardware (or glass) store and get a piece of acrylic sheeting that is the right size for my keyboard and just drill holes into the sheet, after some sanding and generally prettying up, using a smaller drill bit than the screw size, and then mount the keyboard right in.  Has anyone done this, looked into it?  Is it easy to do?  Should I find some stand offs to use instead of mounting it directly to the acrylic?
I have done both of what you said and I currently use a case like this on my home board. Check my minimal case and build log threads from my signature. Let me know if you have questions.
Hey, thanks for the guide link thingy, Do you think that the silicone foam and acrylic piece should be exactly the size of the board or could I potentially get away with making them a bit smaller, I basically just want it to look like no case.
You could make it smaller, that would not be a problem. I actually skipped that completely with the board I am currently using. I just screwed the PCB directly to the acrylic back plate. Its the 75% board in my build log.
How does it feel versus the case with the silicone foam? Would you recommend finding some to put in there?  I took it out of the case and tried it on some electronics packing foam (read: the foam covering it came with out of the box) and I like how quiet it is versus with the case.

EDIT: Also, do you think I should use some stand-offs or just screw it into the plate?

Offline swill

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Re: Making my own keyboard case!
« Reply #5 on: Fri, 13 February 2015, 13:19:30 »
How does it feel versus the case with the silicone foam? Would you recommend finding some to put in there?  I took it out of the case and tried it on some electronics packing foam (read: the foam covering it came with out of the box) and I like how quiet it is versus with the case.

EDIT: Also, do you think I should use some stand-offs or just screw it into the plate?

I did notice a little bit of a difference with the silicone vs not.  You want pretty soft silicone.  If you do this, I would actually recommend a closed cell silicone foam at about 20-30 durometer.  Since you are distributing the pressure across the whole board, you need a really soft durometer for it to be noticeable.  The difference is very subtle.  On the non-silicone board it basically feels like a standard aluminum/steel plate.  On the one with the silicone layer it is a little bit quieter and the bottom out feeling is not quite as harsh.  Keep in mind I have only ever done this with an acrylic plate.

If you are using an acrylic back plate of about 5mm, I would just tap the acrylic and screw directly into it.  I have done a lot of testing of different ways of doing it and this method is pretty good.  If you are using an aluminum back plate then I would recommend using a non-conducting layer of foam.  You may want to cut out areas in the foam layer to accommodate for taller components, like the USB port and the reset switch and such.

What I am currently using right now is a 5mm acrylic back plate with the PCB screwed directly into the plate.  However, I have trampoline modded all of my switches.  The trampoline mod is done by placing a small silicone ball in the base of the switch housing tube so the switch stem hits the ball on bottom out.  This gives basically the same feel (if not more) as using a silicone layer.

Offline shampoomagician

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Re: Making my own keyboard case!
« Reply #6 on: Fri, 13 February 2015, 14:38:39 »

I did notice a little bit of a difference with the silicone vs not.  You want pretty soft silicone.  If you do this, I would actually recommend a closed cell silicone foam at about 20-30 durometer.  Since you are distributing the pressure across the whole board, you need a really soft durometer for it to be noticeable.  The difference is very subtle.  On the non-silicone board it basically feels like a standard aluminum/steel plate.  On the one with the silicone layer it is a little bit quieter and the bottom out feeling is not quite as harsh.  Keep in mind I have only ever done this with an acrylic plate.

If you are using an acrylic back plate of about 5mm, I would just tap the acrylic and screw directly into it.  I have done a lot of testing of different ways of doing it and this method is pretty good.  If you are using an aluminum back plate then I would recommend using a non-conducting layer of foam.  You may want to cut out areas in the foam layer to accommodate for taller components, like the USB port and the reset switch and such.

What I am currently using right now is a 5mm acrylic back plate with the PCB screwed directly into the plate.  However, I have trampoline modded all of my switches.  The trampoline mod is done by placing a small silicone ball in the base of the switch housing tube so the switch stem hits the ball on bottom out.  This gives basically the same feel (if not more) as using a silicone layer.

I think I'm definitely going with the silicone foam.  So when you say tap, you mean drill a hole smaller than the screw first correct?  Should I put some kind of bracers in there or just go for the screws?  I read your guides and was wondering if you had tried the thicker acrylic and was wondering what size you liked best, I don't think I would feel comfortable trampolining my switches (but it sounds awesome) as I'm certainly not the best solderer.

Offline swill

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Re: Making my own keyboard case!
« Reply #7 on: Fri, 13 February 2015, 14:49:25 »

I did notice a little bit of a difference with the silicone vs not.  You want pretty soft silicone.  If you do this, I would actually recommend a closed cell silicone foam at about 20-30 durometer.  Since you are distributing the pressure across the whole board, you need a really soft durometer for it to be noticeable.  The difference is very subtle.  On the non-silicone board it basically feels like a standard aluminum/steel plate.  On the one with the silicone layer it is a little bit quieter and the bottom out feeling is not quite as harsh.  Keep in mind I have only ever done this with an acrylic plate.

If you are using an acrylic back plate of about 5mm, I would just tap the acrylic and screw directly into it.  I have done a lot of testing of different ways of doing it and this method is pretty good.  If you are using an aluminum back plate then I would recommend using a non-conducting layer of foam.  You may want to cut out areas in the foam layer to accommodate for taller components, like the USB port and the reset switch and such.

What I am currently using right now is a 5mm acrylic back plate with the PCB screwed directly into the plate.  However, I have trampoline modded all of my switches.  The trampoline mod is done by placing a small silicone ball in the base of the switch housing tube so the switch stem hits the ball on bottom out.  This gives basically the same feel (if not more) as using a silicone layer.

I think I'm definitely going with the silicone foam.  So when you say tap, you mean drill a hole smaller than the screw first correct?  Should I put some kind of bracers in there or just go for the screws?  I read your guides and was wondering if you had tried the thicker acrylic and was wondering what size you liked best, I don't think I would feel comfortable trampolining my switches (but it sounds awesome) as I'm certainly not the best solderer.

By tap I mean.  Drill a pilot hole and then use a tap to thread the hole.  Here is an example tap: http://www.ebay.ca/itm/HSS-Machine-M3-3mm-Screw-Thread-Metric-Plug-Tap-/371094510755?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item5666f4dca3

I am using 5mm acrylic and I think it is a pretty good thickness.

Offline shampoomagician

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Re: Making my own keyboard case!
« Reply #8 on: Fri, 13 February 2015, 14:58:09 »

By tap I mean.  Drill a pilot hole and then use a tap to thread the hole.  Here is an example tap: http://www.ebay.ca/itm/HSS-Machine-M3-3mm-Screw-Thread-Metric-Plug-Tap-/371094510755?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item5666f4dca3

I am using 5mm acrylic and I think it is a pretty good thickness.

Alright, thanks for all the help, this will probably happen this week and pictures of building process and finished product will be up soon.
Super hyped.